Singapore

%65 / Pop 5.57 million

Why Go?

One of Asia’s success stories is tiny little Singapore, whose GDP consistently ranks it as one of the wealthiest countries in the world. Along with that wealth comes a rich culture borne of a multiracial population. Get lost in the mad swirl of skyscrapers in the central business district, be transfixed by the Bolly beats in the streets of ramshackle Little India, hike a dense patch of rainforest in Bukit Timah, navigate the air-conditioned retail mayhem of Orchard Rd or rub shoulders with the glamorous crowd at one of the city’s rooftop bars.

It’s affluent, high-tech and occasionally a little snobbish, but Singapore’s great leveller are the hawker centres, the ubiquitous and raucous food markets where everyone mucks in together to indulge the local mania for cheap eating and drinking. In short, Singapore makes for a perfect pit stop to recover from the rough-and-tumble of the rest of Southeast Asia.

When to Go

AJan & Feb Chinese New Year and Chingay are the events to catch.

AApr & May Lots of events, and just before the local school holidays start.

ADec The northeast monsoons bring lashing rains, but they also cool Singapore down.

Best for Regional Specialities

A Maxwell Food Centre

A Ya Kun Kaya Toast

A Tekka Centre

Best Places for Cultural Connections

A Peranakan Museum

A National Gallery Singapore

A Asian Civilisations Museum

A Little India

Don’t Miss

The Colonial District and Marina Bay are the heart of Singapore and the former seat of British power. Today the cityscape here is evidence of Singapore's ambitions, with gleaming architecture sitting cheek by jowl with preserved heritage buildings and a retro-futuristic conservatory garden. Get to a rooftop bar for a bird’s-eye view of the entire area, best enjoyed as the sun sets.

Of course, Singapore is famous for its cuisine. Find a hawker centre or food court (there’s one in every mall) and follow your nose or join the longest queues for gastronomic delights.

ITINERARIES

TWO DAYS

Begin your first day taking in the architectural glory of the Colonial District; wander along the Singapore River and through the Quays before getting your culture fix at one of the area's many museums. Head for the impressive Gardens by the Bay before dining at Satay by the Bay. Spend day two immersed in the sights and sounds of Little India and finish with dinner and drinks in Kampong Glam before hitting the dancefloor in Clarke Quay.

FIVE DAYS

Get back to nature at Singapore Zoo followed by an afternoon stroll through the Botanic Gardens; exiting Tanglin gate wander down to the retail jungle of Orchard Rd. Spend day four in the entertainment hub of Sentosa Island and enjoy sunset drinks at one of its beachside bars. Finally slow down the pace on Pulau Ubin Island; finish off with dinner and a Tiger beer at Changi Village.

Essential Food & Drink

AHainanese chicken rice Tender poached chicken served on a bed of fragrant rice (cooked in chicken stock) with accompanying garlic chilli sauce.

AChar kway teow Flat rice noodles wok-fried with bean sprouts, cockles, prawns and Chinese sausage in dark soy sauce and chilli sauce.

ARoti prata Fried flour-based pancake served with chicken or fish curry, variations include mushroom, egg and banana.

ANasi padang Steamed white rice served with your choice of meats and vegetables; just choose and point. Lots of curries available.

AFried carrot cake Not a sweet dessert but steamed rice flour, water and white radish cake stir fried with eggs and preserved radish. Dark version is cooked in soy sauce.

At a Glance

ACurrency Singapore dollar (S$)

ALanguage English (primary), Mandarin, Bahasa Malaysia, Tamil

AMoney ATMs widely available; credit cards accepted most places

AVisas On arrival; generally not needed for stays up to 30 days

AMobile phones SIM cards usually S$18, you'll need your passport for identification

Fast Facts

AArea 718 sq km

AEmergency 999

Exchange Rates

Australia	A$1	S$1
Euro	€1	S$1.54
Indonesia	10,000Rp	S$1.03
Malaysia	RM10	S$3.26
UK	UK£1	S$2.15
US	US$1	S$1.40

Daily Costs

ADorm bed US$16-40

AHawker meal US$3

ABottle of Tiger US$4.50

AMuseum entry US$7

AShort taxi ride US$4

Entering the Country

Changi Airport is Singapore's main flight hub. Buses link Singapore with Malaysia and Thailand; ferries connect to Malaysia and Indonesia.

Singapore Highlights

1 Getting lost in the futuristic green oasis Gardens by the Bay, where nature and design collide.

2 Navigating Little India, a jumble of gold, textiles, temples and cheap eats.

3 Experiencing the animal magnetism of Singapore Zoo, one of three outstanding open-concept zoos.

4 Immersing yourself in Southeast Asian art at the newly opened National Gallery Singapore.

5 Booking the detailed tour through Baba House, a gorgeous restored Peranakan house.

6 Getting among nature on the treetop walk at MacRitchie Reservoir.

7 Pulling up a perch at Level 33 and enjoying a bird's-eye view of the city as the sun sets.

8 Joining the nighttime buzz in vibrant Kampong Glam: starting with the eclectic shops then stay for dinner and a drink.

1Sights

Colonial District

The Colonial District is where you’ll find many imposing remnants of British rule, including the Victoria Concert Hall & Theatre, Old Parliament House (now an arts centre), St Andrew’s Cathedral, City Hall, and the Old Supreme Court, which are arranged around the Padang, a cricket pitch. Rising above them is the spaceship of the Norman Foster–designed Supreme Court building.

Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays

1Top Sights

1Asian Civilisations MuseumD4

2National Gallery SingaporeD3

3National Museum of SingaporeC1

4Peranakan MuseumC2

1Sights

5BattleboxB1

6Boat QuayC5

7Clarke QuayB3

8Fort Canning ParkB2

9Hong San See TempleA2

10Marina Bay SandsG6

11Raffles HotelE2

12Robertson QuayA3

13Singapore Art MuseumD1

14Singapore Pinacothèque de ParisC2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

15G-Max Reverse BungyC3

Singapore River CruiseC3

4Sleeping

165Footway.Inn Project Boat QuayC4

17Holiday Inn Express Clarke QuayA4

18Port by Quarters HostelC4

19River City InnC4

5Eating

20Gluttons BayF4

21National Kitchen by Violet OonD3

22Rasapura MastersG5

23Singapore Food TrailH4

6Drinking & Nightlife

24AtticaB3

25Cé la Vi Club LoungeG5

26LoofE1

OrgoF4

27SouthbridgeC4

3Entertainment

Esplanade – Theatres on the BayF4

28Singapore Symphony OrchestraF4

29Timbrè @ The SubstationC2

oNational Gallery SingaporeGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nationalgallery.sg; St Andrew's Rd; adult/child S$20/15; h10am-7pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; W; mCity Hall)

Connected by a striking aluminium and glass canopy, Singapore's historic City Hall and Old Supreme Court buildings now form the city's breathtaking National Gallery. Its world-class collection of 19th-century and modern Southeast Asian art is housed in two major spaces, the DBS Singapore Gallery and the UOB Southeast Asia Gallery. The former delivers a comprehensive overview of Singaporean art from the 19th century to today, while the latter focuses on the greater Southeast Asian region.

oNational Museum of SingaporeMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6332 3659; www.nationalmuseum.sg; 93 Stamford Rd; adult/child,student & senior S$10/5; h10am-6.30pm; W; mDhoby Ghaut, Bras Basah)

Imaginative and immersive, Singapore's rebooted National Museum is good enough to warrant two visits. At once cutting-edge and classical, the space ditches staid exhibits for lively multimedia galleries that bring Singapore's jam-packed biography to vivid life. It's a colourful, intimate journey, spanning ancient Malay royalty, wartime occupation, nation-building, food and fashion. Look out for interactive artwork GoHead/GoStan: Panorama Singapura, which offers an audiovisual trip through the city-state's many periods.

oAsian Civilisations MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6332 7798; www.acm.org.sg; 1 Empress Pl; adult/child under 6yr S$8/free, 7-9pm Fri half-price; h10am-7pm Sat-Thu, to 9pm Fri; mRaffles Place)

This remarkable museum houses the region's most comprehensive collection of pan-Asian treasures. Recently expanded, its series of thematic galleries explore the history, cultures and religions of Southeast Asia, China, the Asian subcontinent and Islamic West Asia. Exquisite artefacts include glittering Sumatran and Javanese ceremonial jewellery, Thai tribal textiles, Chinese silk tapestries, and astronomical treatises from 14th-century Iran and 16th-century Egypt. Among the more macabre objects is a 17th- or 18th-century Tibetan ritual bone apron, made with human and animal bones.

oPeranakan MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6332 7591; www.peranakanmuseum.org.sg; 39 Armenian St; adult/child under 7yr S$6/free, 7-9pm Fri half-price; h10am-7pm, to 9pm Fri; mCity Hall)

This is the best spot to explore the rich heritage of the Peranakans (Straits Chinese descendants). Thematic galleries cover various aspects of Peranakan culture, from the traditional 12-day wedding ceremony to crafts, spirituality and feasting. Look out for intricately detailed ceremonial costumes and beadwork, beautifully carved wedding beds, and rare dining porcelain. An especially curious example of Peranakan fusion culture is a pair of Victorian bell jars in which statues of Christ and the Madonna are adorned with Chinese-style flowers and vines.

Fort Canning ParkPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nparks.gov.sg; bounded by Hill St, Canning Rise, Clemenceau Ave & River Valley Rd; mDhoby Ghaut, Clarke Quay)

When Raffles rolled into Singapore, locals steered clear of Fort Canning Hill, then called Bukit Larangan (Forbidden Hill) out of respect for the sacred shrine of Sultan Iskandar Shah, ancient Singapura's last ruler. These days, the hill is better known as Fort Canning Park, a lush retreat from the hot streets below. Amble through the spice garden, catch an exhibition at Singapore Pinacothéque de Paris ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6883 1588; www.pinacotheque.com.sg; 5 Cox Tce; Heritage Gallery, Graffiti Walk & Garden Walk free, all galleries adult/student/child under 7yr S$28/19/9; h10am-6pm; mDhoby Ghaut) or ponder Singapore's wartime defeat at the Battle Box Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6338 6133; www.battlebox.com.sg; 2 Cox Tce; adult/child S$18/9; hTours 1.30pm, 2.45pm & 4pm Mon, 9.45am, 11.00am, 1.30pm, 2.45pm & 4pm Tue-Sun; mDhoby Ghaut).

Singapore Art MuseumMUSEUM

(SAM; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6589 9580; www.singaporeartmuseum.sg; 71 Bras Basah Rd; adult/student & senior S$10/5, 6-9pm Fri free; h10am-7pm Sat-Thu, to 9pm Fri; mBras Basah)

Formerly the St Joseph's Institution – a Catholic boys' school – SAM now sings the praises of contemporary Southeast Asian art. Themed exhibitions include works from the museum's permanent collection as well as those from private collections, from painting and sculpture to video art and site-specific installations. Free, 45-minute guided tours of the museum are conducted in English two to three times daily; check the website for times.

Raffles HotelNOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6337 1886; www.raffleshotel.com; 1 Beach Rd; mCity Hall)

Although its resplendent lobby is only accessible to hotel guests and its bars are little more than tourist traps, Singapore's most iconic slumber palace is worth a quick visit for its magnificent ivory frontage, famous Sikh doorman and lush, hushed tropical grounds. The hotel started life in 1887 as a modest 10-room bungalow fronting the beach (long gone thanks to land reclamation), and it still evokes the days when Singapore was a swampy, tiger-tempered outpost of the British Empire.

Marina Bay & the Quays

South of the Colonial District lies Marina Bay, Singapore's glittering new financial district and home to the now-iconic Marina Bay Sands and Gardens by the Bay.

oGardens by the BayGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6420 6848; www.gardensbythebay.com.sg; 18 Marina Gardens Dr; gardens free, conservatories adult/child under 13yr S$28/15, OCBC Skyway adult/child under 13yr S$8/$5; h5am-2am, conservatories & OCBC Skyway 9am-9pm, last ticket sale 8pm; mBayfront)

Singapore's 21st-century botanic garden is a S$1 billion, 101-hectare fantasy-land of space-age biodomes, high-tech Supertrees and whimsical sculptures. The Flower Dome replicates the dry, Mediterranean climates found across the world, while the even more astounding Cloud Forest is a tropical montane affair, complete with waterfall. Connecting two of the Supertrees is the OCBC Skyway, with knockout views of the gardens, city and South China Sea. At 7.45pm and 8.45pm, the Supertrees twinkle and glow for the spectacular Garden Rhapsody show.

Marina Bay SandsCOMPLEX

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.marinabaysands.com; Marina Bay; W; mBayfront)

Designed by Israeli–North American architect Moshe Safdie, Marina Bay Sands is a sprawling hotel, casino, mall, theatre, exhibition and museum complex. Star of the show is the Marina Bay Sands Hotel, its three 55-storey towers connected by a cantilevered sky park. Head up for a drink and stellar views at Ce La Vie (the sky bar formerly known as Ku De Ta). Each night, the complex dazzles with its 13-minute light and laser spectacular, Wonder Full.

Clarke QuayAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.clarkequay.com.sg; mClarke Quay)

Named after Singapore’s second colonial governor, Sir Andrew Clarke, this is the busiest and most popular of Singapore's three quays. How much time you spend in its plethora of bars, restaurants and clubs depends upon your taste in aesthetics. This is Singapore at its most hyper-touristy, a kitsch, pastel-coloured sprawl of mostly run-of-the-mill eateries and lad-and-ladette drinking holes.

Boat QuayAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mRaffles Place, Clarke Quay)

Closest to the river mouth, this was once Singapore’s centre of commerce, and it remained an important economic area into the 1960s. By the mid-1980s, many of the shophouses were in ruins, businesses having shifted to high-tech cargo centres elsewhere on the island. Declared a conservation zone by the government, the area is now crammed with pubs, touristy eateries and persistent restaurant touts. One bar worth stopping at is rooftop Southbridge ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6877 6965; www.southbridge.sg; 5th fl, 80 Boat Quay; h5-11.30pm; mClarke Quay), its skyline and river views are simply jaw-dropping.

Robertson QuayAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; g54, 64, 123, 139, 143, 186, mClarke Quay)

The most remote and least visited of the quays is home to some of the best eateries and bars along the river, including Mexican 'It kid' Super Loco and well-priced wine bar Wine Connection. The precinct is also home to the Singapore Tyler Print Institute (STPI; GOOGLE MAP ; %6336 3663; www.stpi.com.sg; 41a Robertson Quay; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, free guided tours 11.30am Tue & Thu, 2.30pm Sat; g54, 64, 123, 139, 143, 186), which hosts international and local exhibits showcasing the work of resident print- and paper-makers. Close by is the Hong San See Temple ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 31 Mohamed Sultan Rd; h7am-6pm; g32, 54, 64, 123, 143, 139, 195), completed in 1913.

Chinatown & the CBD

Bustling Chinatown is crammed with small shops, eateries and tradition, though some of the tradition has disappeared behind a wave of renovation, some of it good (the restored shophouses), some of it not so good (the Pagoda St tourist market). The CBD is Singapore's financial hub and sits beside Chinatown. The hive of activity during the weekdays stands in stark contrast to the weekends, when it's a proverbial ghost town. Architecture aficionados will enjoy the restored shophouses around the area (Ann Siang Rd and Hill are good places to start).

Chinatown & the CBD

1Top Sights

1Baba HouseA4

2Chinatown Heritage CentreD1

1Sights

3Buddha Tooth Relic TempleD2

4Sri Mariamman TempleE1

5Thian Hock Keng TempleE2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Food PlaygroundD2

7People's Park ComplexC1

4Sleeping

8Adler HostelE2

9Beary Good HostelD1

10Hotel 1929C2

11Rucksack InnD1

12Wink HostelD1

5Eating

13Bonne SoupD1

14Chinatown ComplexD1

15Ginza Tendon ItsukiD4

16Jing HuaD2

17Lian He Ben Ji Claypot RiceD2

18LoKalC3

19Maxwell Food CentreD2

20Rojak, Popiah & CockleD2

Shi Xiang SatayD2

21Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken RiceD2

22Ya Kun Kaya ToastF1

6Drinking & Nightlife

23Good Beer CompanyD2

24Operation DaggerE2

25Oxwell & CoE2

26PlainC3

27Potato Head FolkC2

Smith Street TapsD2

3Entertainment

28Chinese Theatre CircleD2

oBaba HouseMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6227 5731; www.nus.edu.sg/cfa/museum/about.php; 157 Neil Rd; h1hr tours 2pm Mon, 2pm & 6.30pm Tue, 10am Thu, 11am Sat; mOutram Park)F

Baba House is one of Singapore's best-preserved Peranakan heritage homes. Built in the 1890s, it's a wonderful window into the life of an affluent Peranakan family living in Singapore a century ago. Its loving restoration has seen every detail attended to, from the carved motifs on the blue facade down to the door screens. The only way in is on a guided tour, held every Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, but the tour is excellent and free. Bookings, by telephone, are essential.

oChinatown Heritage CentreMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6224 3928; www.chinatownheritagecentre.com.sg; 48 Pagoda St; adult/child under 13yr S$15/10; h9am-8pm, closed 1st Mon each month; mChinatown)

Delve into Chinatown's gritty, cacophonous backstory at the recently revamped Chinatown Heritage Centre. Occupying several levels of a converted shophouse, its interactive exhibitions shed light on numerous historical chapters, from the treacherous journey of Singapore's early Chinese immigrants to the development of local clan associations to the district's notorious opium dens. It's an evocative place, digging well beneath modern Chinatown's touristy veneer.

Buddha Tooth Relic TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6220 0220; www.btrts.org.sg; 288 South Bridge Rd; h7am-7pm, relic viewing 9am-6pm; mChinatown)F

Consecrated in 2008, this hulking, five-story Buddhist temple is home to what is reputedly the left canine tooth of the Buddha, recovered from his funeral pyre in Kushinagar, northern India. While its authenticity is debated, the relic enjoys VIP status inside a 420kg solid-gold stupa in a dazzlingly ornate 4th-floor room. More religious relics await in the 3rd-floor Buddhism museum, while the peaceful rooftop garden features a huge prayer wheel inside a 10,000 Buddha Pavilion.

Sri Mariamman TempleHINDU TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6223 4064; 244 South Bridge Rd; take photos/videos S$3/6; h7am-noon & 6-9pm; mChinatown)F

Paradoxically in the middle of Chinatown, this is the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore, originally built in 1823, then rebuilt in 1843. You can't miss the fabulously animated, Technicolor 1930s gopuram (tower) above the entrance, the key to the temple's south Indian Dravidian style. Sacred cow sculptures grace the boundary walls, while the gopuram is covered in kitsch plasterwork images of Brahma the creator, Vishnu the preserver and Shiva the destroyer.

Thian Hock Keng TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6423 4616; www.thianhockkeng.com.sg; 158 Telok Ayer St; h7.30am-5.30pm; mTelok Ayer)F

Surprisingly, Chinatown’s oldest and most important Hokkien temple is often a haven of tranquility. Built between 1839 and 1842, it’s a beautiful place, and once the favourite landing point of Chinese sailors, before land reclamation pushed the sea far down the road. Typically, the temple's design features are richly symbolic: the stone lions at the entrance ward off evil spirits, while the painted depiction of phoenixes and peonies in the central hall symbolise peace and good tidings respectively.

SINGAPORE ON THE CHEAP

Stick to eating at hawker centres or food courts.
If you drink at a bar, go during happy hours (for discounted booze or one-for-one specials).
Visit the museums for free (or cheap) after 6pm Friday, and catch free concerts at the Esplanade or Singapore Botanic Gardens.
To cool off, dive into one of Singapore's impressive public pools.
Pack a picnic and spend a day at the beach in East Coast Park or Sentosa.
Hike in Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, around the MacRitchie Reservoir or along the Southern Ridges.

Little India & Kampong Glam

Disorderly and pungent, Little India is a world away from the rest of Singapore. Weekends are truly an eye-opener for locals and tourists alike. Produce, spices and trinkets spill onto the streets and crowd the five-foot ways (covered pedestrian walkways). Many businesses operate late into the night (some run 24 hours) and traffic slows to a messy crawl. Southeast of Little India is Kampong Glam, Singapore’s Muslim quarter. Here you’ll find shops selling clothing, raw cloth and dry goods.

Little India & Kampong Glam

1Top Sights

1Indian Heritage CentreB3

1Sights

2Malay Heritage CentreD4

3Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya TempleC1

4Sri Veeramakaliamman TempleB3

5Sultan MosqueD4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Trishaw UncleB4

4Sleeping

7Albert Court Village HotelA4

8Bunc@RadiusB3

9Central 65C3

10Five Stones HostelD5

11FootprintsB3

12Green Kiwi Backpackers HostelD1

13InnCrowdB3

14PodD4

5Eating

15Ah Heng Curry Chicken Bee Hoon MeeB5

Ah-Rahman Royal PrataA3

16Ananda BhavanA3

17Moghul SweetsB3

18Nan Hwa Chong Fish-Head Steamboat CornerD4

New Rong Liang Ge Cantonese Roast Duck Boiled SoupB5

19QS269 Food HouseB5

20Tekka CentreA3

21Two BakersD2

22Warong Nasi PariamanD4

23Zam ZamC4

6Drinking & Nightlife

24ArtistryC4

25Chye Seng Huat HardwareD2

26DruggistsD2

27Maison IkkokuD4

3Entertainment

28BluJaz CaféD5

7Shopping

29Bugis Street MarketC5

30Mustafa CentreC2

31Sim Lim SquareB4

oIndian Heritage CentreMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6291 1601; www.indianheritage.org.sg; 5 Campbell Lane; adult/child under 7yr S$4/free; h10am-7pm Tue-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat, to 4pm Sun; mLittle India, Rochor)

Delve into the heritage of Singapore's Indian community at this showpiece museum. Divided into five themes, its hundreds of historical and cultural artefacts explore everything from early interactions between South Asia and Southeast Asia to Indian cultural traditions and the contributions of Indian Singaporeans in the development of the island nation. Among the more extraordinary objects is a 19th-century Chettinad doorway, intricately adorned with 5000 minute carvings.

Malay Heritage CentreMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6391 0450; www.malayheritage.org.sg; 85 Sultan Gate; adult/child under 6yr $4/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mBugis)

The Kampong Glam area is the historic seat of Malay royalty, resident here before the arrival of Raffles, and the istana (palace) on this site was built for the last sultan of Singapore, Ali Iskander Shah, between 1836 and 1843. It's now a museum, and its recently revamped galleries exploring Malay-Singaporean culture and history, from the early migration of traders to Kampong Glam to the development of Malay-Singaporean film, theatre, music and publishing.

Sultan MosqueMOSQUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6293 4405; www.sultanmosque.org.sg; 3 Muscat St; h9.30am-noon & 2-4pm Sat-Thu, 2.30-4pm Fri; mBugis)F

Seemingly pulled from the pages of the Arabian Nights, Singapore's largest mosque is nothing short of enchanting, designed in the Saracenic style and topped by a golden dome. It was originally built in 1825 with the aid of a grant from Raffles and the East India Company, after Raffles' treaty with the Sultan of Singapore allowed the Malay leader to retain sovereignty over the area. In 1928, the original mosque was replaced by the present magnificent building, designed by an Irish architect.

Sri Veeramakaliamman TempleHINDU TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6295 4538; www.sriveeramakaliamman.com; 141 Serangoon Rd; h8am-noon & 6.30-9pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8am-noon & 6-9pm Fri & Sun; mLittle India)F

Little India's most colourful, visually stunning temple is dedicated to the ferocious goddess Kali, depicted wearing a garland of skulls, ripping out the insides of her victims, and sharing more tranquil family moments with her sons Ganesh and Murugan. The bloodthirsty consort of Shiva has always been popular in Bengal, the birthplace of the labourers who built the structure in 1881. The temple is at its most evocative during each of the four daily puja (prayer) sessions.

Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Temple of 1000 Lights; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 366 Race Course Rd; h8am-4.30pm; mFarrer Park)F

Dominating this temple is a 15m-tall, 300-tonne Buddha. Keeping him company is an eclectic cast of deities, including Kuan Yin (Guanyin), the Chinese goddess of mercy and, interestingly, the Hindu deities Brahma and Ganesh. The yellow tigers flanking the entrance symbolise protection and vitality, while the huge mother-of-pearl Buddha footprint to your left as you enter is reputedly a replica of the footprint on top of Adam's Peak in Sri Lanka.

Orchard Road

No one visits Orchard Rd for the sights alone, though the Christmas-light displays are breathtaking. The only major historical site is the President’s digs, the Istana ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.istana.gov.sg; Orchard Rd; grounds/palace S$2/4; h8.30am-6pm, open days only; mDhoby Ghaut), but it’s only open on select public holidays; check the website for details.

Orchard Road

1Top Sights

1Singapore Botanic GardensA3

1Sights

2Cathay GalleryG4

3Emerald Hill RoadE3

4IstanaF2

5Eating

5Food RepublicD3

Takashimaya Food VillageD3

6Drinking & Nightlife

6Mezze9D2

7No 5E3

3Entertainment

SISTICD3

7Shopping

8ION Orchard MallD3

9KinokuniyaD3

10Ngee Ann CityD3

11TakashimayaD3

8Information

Singapore Visitors Centre @ ION OrchardD3

12Singapore Visitors Centre @ OrchardE3

oSingapore Botanic GardensGARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6471 7361; www.sbg.org.sg; 1 Cluny Rd; gardens free, National Orchid Garden adult/child under 12yr S$5/free; h5am-midnight, National Orchid Garden 8.30am-7pm, last entry 6pm, Healing Garden 5am-7.30pm Wed-Mon, Jacob Ballas Children's Garden 8am-7pm Tue-Sun, last entry 6.30pm; g7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123, 174, mBotanic Gardens)

Singapore's 74-hectare botanic wonderland is a Unesco World Heritage Site and one of the city's most arresting attractions. Established in 1860, it's a tropical Valhalla peppered with glassy lakes, rolling lawns and themed gardens. The site is home to the National Orchid Garden, as well as a rare patch of dense primeval rainforest, the latter home to over 300 species of vegetation, over half of which are now (sadly) considered rare in Singapore.

Emerald Hill RoadARCHITECTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Emerald Hill Rd; mSomerset)

Take time out from your shopping to wander up frangipani-scented Emerald Hill Rd, graced with some of Singapore's finest terrace houses. Special mentions go to No 56 (built in 1902, and one of the earliest buildings here), Nos 39 to 45 (with unusually wide frontages and a grand Chinese-style entrance gate), and Nos 120 to 130 (with art-deco features dating from around 1925). At the Orchard Rd end of the hill is a cluster of popular bars housed in fetching shophouse renovations.

Cathay GalleryMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thecathaygallery.com.sg; 02-16 The Cathay, 2 Handy Rd; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; W; mDhoby Ghaut)F

Film and nostalgia buffs will appreciate this pocket-sized silver-screen museum, housed in Singapore's first high-rise building. The displays trace the history of the Loke family, early pioneers in film production and distribution in Singapore and founders of the Cathay Organisation. Highlights include old movie posters, cameras and programs that capture the golden age of local cinema.

BREAKFAST OF A NATION

Come morning you’ll find locals crowded into traditional kopitiams (coffee shops) to fuel up on Singapore’s quintessential ‘breakfast set’ comprising char-grilled white toast smothered with butter and kaya (coconut jam), two half boiled eggs and a cup of kopi (coffee). To eat, crack the eggs into your bowl, marveling at the just-set whites and creamy yolks, before adding a dash of soy sauce and a shake of ground white pepper. Give it all a good mix and then dunk the toast in, mopping up all the eggy goodness. Recent years has seen this meal enjoyed throughout the day as a quick pick-me-up, so don’t worry if you miss the breakfast crowd. Our pick: Ya Kun Kaya Toast.

Eastern Singapore

Nowhere else is Singapore’s mishmash of food, commerce, religion, culture and sleaze more at ease than in the Geylang area. Come nightfall, you might see a crowd spill out onto the streets from evening prayer at a mosque, rubbing shoulders with prostitutes. Join hordes of people sweating over plates of local food. To get here, take the MRT to Kallang or Aljunied, then cross the road and head south towards all the action.

Katong, a former Peranakan enclave, is rife with food outlets, bars and beautiful shophouse architecture. Take bus 12 or 32 from North Bridge Rd and get off along East Coast Rd.

East Coast ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; g36, 43, 48, 196, 197, 401)

This 15km stretch of seafront park is where Singaporeans come to swim, windsurf, wakeboard, kayak, picnic, bicycle, inline skate, skateboard, and, of course, eat. You'll find swaying coconut palms, patches of bushland, a lagoon, sea-sports clubs, and some excellent eateries.

Renting a bike from kiosks like CycleMax ( GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6445 1147; www.facebook.com/cyclemax.sg; 01-03, 1018 East Coast Parkway; 2hr bike hire S$8; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, 8am-9pm Sun; m36, 43, 48, 196, 197, 401), enjoying the sea breezes, watching the veritable city of container ships out in the strait, and capping it all off with a beachfront meal is one of the most pleasant ways to spend a Singapore afternoon.

Changi VillageAREA

( GOOGLE MAP ; mTanah Merah, then bus 2)

The low-slung buildings are modern, but Changi Village still has a village atmosphere; the lively hawker centre next to the bus terminus is the focal point. Changi Beach (where thousands of Singaporean civilians were executed during WWII), lapped by the polluted waters of the Straits of Johor, is lousy for swimming, but there’s a good stretch of sand. The ferry terminal for catching a bumboat to Pulau Ubin is located opposite the hawker centre.

Northern & Central Singapore

oSingapore ZooZOO

( GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6269 3411; www.zoo.com.sg; 80 Mandai Lake Rd; adult/child under 13yr S$33/22; h8.30am-6pm; W; mAng Mo Kio, then bus 138)

The line between zoo and botanic oasis blurs at this pulse-slowing sweep of spacious, naturalistic enclosures, freely roaming animals and interactive attractions. Get up close to orangutans, dodge Malaysian flying foxes, even snoop around a replica African village. Then there's that setting: 26 soothing hectares on a lush peninsula jutting out into the waters of the Upper Seletar Reservoir.

oNight SafariZOO

( GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6269 3411; www.nightsafari.com.sg; 80 Mandai Lake Rd; adult/child under 13yr S$45/30; h7.15pm-midnight, restaurants & shops from 5.30pm; W; mAng Mo Kio, then bus 138)

At Night Safari, electric trams glide past over 130 species, including tigers and elephants, with more docile creatures often passing within inches of the trams. Walking trails lead to enclosures inaccessible by tram, though sighting the animals can be a little hit-and-miss. (In truth, many are better seen at neighbouring Singapore Zoo.) If you've got kids in tow, the 20-minute Creatures of the Night show will thrill. Arrive at the zoo after 9.30pm to avoid the worst queues.

River SafariZOO

( GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6269 3411; www.riversafari.com.sg; 80 Mandai Lake Rd; adult/child under 13yr S$30/20, boat ride adult/child S$5/3; h10am-6pm; mAng Mo Kio, then bus 138)

This wildlife park recreates the habitats of numerous world-famous rivers, including the Yangtze, Nile and Congo. While most are underwhelming, the Mekong River and Amazon Flooded Forest exhibits are impressive, their epic aquariums rippling with giant catfish and stingrays, electric eels, red-bellied piranhas, manatees and sea cows. Another highlight is the Giant Panda Forest enclosure, home to rare red pandas and the park's famous black-and-whiters, KaiKai and JiaJia.

oMacRitchie ReservoirNATURE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 471 7300; www.nparks.gov.sg; Lornie Rd; mNovena, then bus 162, 166, 167, 980)

MacRitchie Reservoir makes for a calming, evocative jungle escape. Walking trails skirt the water's edge and snake through the mature secondary rainforest spotted with long-tailed macaques and huge monitor lizards. You can rent kayaks at the Paddle Lodge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6258 0057; www.scf.org.sg; MacRitchie Reservoir, Lornie Rd; per hr S$15; h9am-noon & 2-6pm, last hire 4.30pm; mNovena, then bus 162, 166, 167, 980), but the highlight is the excellent 11km walking trail – and its various well-signposted offshoots. Aim for the TreeTop Walk ( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 471 7300; www.nparks.gov.sg; MacRitchie Reservoir, Lornie Rd; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat & Sun; mNovena, then bus 162, 166, 167, 980), the highlight of which is traversing a 250m-long suspension bridge, perched 25m up in the forest canopy.

oBukit Timah Nature ReserveNATURE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 471 7300; www.nparks.gov.sg; 177 Hindhede Dr; h7am-6pm Sat & Sun, visitor-centre exhibition 8.30am-5pm; g67, 75, 170, 171, 173, 184, 852, 961, mBeauty World)

Singapore’s steamy heart of darkness is Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, a 163-hectare tract of primary rainforest clinging to Singapore’s highest peak, Bukit Timah (163m). The reserve holds more tree species than the entire North American continent, and its unbroken forest canopy shelters what remains of Singapore’s native wildlife, including long-tailed macaques (monkeys), pythons and dozens of bird species. Due to major repair work, only the sealed Summit Trail was accessible when we visited, and only on weekends. Check the website for updates.

Southern & Western Singapore

For a beautiful view, walk up 116m Mt Faber, then catch the cable car ( GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6377 9688; www.singaporecablecar.com.sg; adult/child return S$29/18, Sentosa Line only S$13/8; h8.45am-9.30pm; mHarbourFront) to the HarbourFront Centre or across to Sentosa Island. Mt Faber is connected to Kent Ridge Park via Telok Blangah Park and HortPark in a 9km-long chain known as the Southern Ridges, arguably Singapore’s best walking trail. The walk takes visitors along shady forested paths and across amazing bridges that pass through the forest canopy.

Jurong Bird ParkBIRD SANCTUARY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6265 0022; www.birdpark.com.sg; 2 Jurong Hill; adult/child under 13yr S$29/19; h8.30am-6pm; c; mBoon Lay, then bus 194)

Home to some 600 species of feathered friends – including spectacular macaws – Jurong is a great place for young kids. Highlights include the wonderful Lory Loft forest enclosure, where you can feed colourful lories and lorikeets, and the interactive High Flyers (11am and 3pm) and Kings of the Skies (10am and 4pm). We must note, however, that some birds are made to perform for humans, which is discouraged by animal-welfare groups.

NUS MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6516 8817; www.nus.edu.sg/museum; University Cultural Centre, 50 Kent Ridge Cres; h10am-7.30pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; mClementi, then bus 96)F

Located on the verdant campus of the National University of Singapore (NUS), this museum is one of the city's lesser-known cultural delights. Ancient Chinese ceramics and bronzes, as well as archaeological fragments found in Singapore, dominate the ground-floor Lee Kong Chian Collection; one floor up, the South and Southeast Asian Gallery showcases paintings, sculpture and textiles from the region. The Ng Eng Teng Collection is dedicated to Ng Eng Teng (1934–2001), Singapore's foremost modern artist, best known for his figurative sculptures.

Haw Par VillaMUSEUM, PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6872 2780; 262 Pasir Panjang Rd; h9am-7pm, Ten Courts of Hell exhibit 9am-5.45pm; mHaw Par Villa)F

The refreshingly weird and kitsch Haw Par Villa was the brainchild of Aw Boon Haw, the creator of the medicinal salve Tiger Balm. After Aw Boon Haw built a villa here in 1937 for his beloved brother and business partner, Aw Boon Par, the siblings began building a Chinese-mythology theme park within the grounds. Top billing goes to the Ten Courts of Hell, a walk-through exhibit depicting the gruesome torments awaiting sinners in the underworld.

Sentosa Island

Epitomised by its star attraction, Universal Studios, Sentosa is essentially a giant theme park. The island itself is packed with rides, activities and shows, most of which cost extra. The beaches, of course, are completely free and very popular with locals and tourists alike.

Sentosa Island

1Sights

1Fort SilosoA1

2Universal StudiosB2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

3Wave HouseA2

6Drinking & Nightlife

4Tanjong Beach ClubC3

5WoobarD3

Universal StudiosAMUSEMENT PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6577 8888; www.rwsentosa.com; Resorts World, 8 Sentosa Gateway; adult/child under 13yr S$74/54; h10am-6pm; mHarbourFront, then monorail to Waterfront)

Universal Studios is the top-drawer attraction in Resorts World. Shops, shows, restaurants, rides and roller-coasters are all neatly packaged into fantasy-world themes based on blockbuster Hollywood films. Top draws include Transformers: The Ride, a next-generation thrill ride deploying 3D animation, and Battlestar Galactica: Human vs Cylon, the world's tallest duelling roller-coasters. Opening times are subject to slight variations at different times of the year, so always check the website before heading in.

Fort SilosoMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6736 8672; www.sentosa.com.sg; Siloso Point, Siloso Rd; free, Surrender Chambers adult/child under 13yr S$6/4.50; h10am-6pm, last entry 5.30pm; mHarbourFront, then monorail to Beach, then bus 1 or 2 to Siloso Point)

Dating from the 1880s, when Sentosa was called Pulau Blakang Mati (Malay for 'the island behind which lies death'), this British coastal fort was famously useless during the Japanese invasion of 1942. Documentaries, artefacts, animatronics and recreated historical scenes talk visitors through the fort's history, and the underground tunnels are fun to explore.

Pulau Ubin

A rural, unkempt expanse of jungle full of fast-moving lizards, strange shrines and cacophonic birdlife. Tin-roofed buildings bake in the sun, chickens squawk and panting dogs slump in the dust, while in the forest, families of wild pigs run for cover as visitors pedal past on squeaky rented bicycles. Get to Tanah Merah MRT, then take bus 2 to Changi Village Ferry Terminal. There boats depart for the island (one way S$3, 10 minutes, sunrise to sunset) whenever there are 12 people aboard.

Southern Islands

Three other islands popular with castaway-fantasising locals are St John’s, Lazarus and Kusu. They’re quiet and great for fishing, swimming, picnics and guzzling BYO six-packs. The islands have changing rooms and toilets. Kusu Island is culturally interesting; devotees come to pray for health, wealth and fertility at its Taoist temple and Malay kramat (shrine). There's nowhere to buy food or drink on any of the islands, so come prepared.

Catch a ferry from the Marina South Pier ( GOOGLE MAP ; 31 Marina Coastal Dr; mMarina South Pier).

2Activities

Though the national pastimes revolve around shopping and eating, there are opportunities for outdoorsy types. The best spot for cycling is definitely East Coast Park. Pulau Ubin has dedicated mountain-biking trails. For swimming there are reasonable beaches on Sentosa, the Southern Islands and East Coast Park.

Massages are cheap and readily available, with reflexology a major trade. For a good foot rub check out People’s Park Complex ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.peoplesparkcomplex.sg; 1 Park Cres; h9am-10pm, shop times vary; mChinatown). Most malls have at least one reflexology place.

G-Max Reverse BungyADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6338 1766; www.gmax.com.sg; 3E River Valley Rd; adult/student per ride S$45/35, incl GX-5 Extreme Swing S$69/50; h2pm-late; mClarke Quay)

Prepare to be strapped into padded chairs inside a metal cage and propelled skyward to a height of 60m at speeds of up to 200km/h before being pulled back down by gravity. Though the ride offers spectacular views to those who can keep their eyes open, it's best avoided by people prone to velocity-induced vomiting.

Wave HouseSURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6238 1196; www.wavehousesentosa.com; 36 Siloso Beach Walk; 30min FlowBarrel surf session S$30, 1hr Double Flowrider surf session from S$35; h10.30am-10.30pm, Double Flowrider 11am-10pm, FlowBarrel 1-10pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 11am-10pm Wed, Sat & Sun; mHarbourFront, then monorail to Beach)

Two specially designed wave pools allow surfer types to practise their gashes and cutbacks at ever-popular Wave House. The non-curling Double Flowrider is good for beginners, while the 3m FlowBarrel is more challenging. Wave House also includes beachside eating and drinking options.

CCourses

Food PlaygroundCOOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9452 3669; www.foodplayground.com.sg; 24A Sago St; 3hr class from S$99; h9.30am-12.30pm Mon-Sat; mChinatown)

You've been gorging on Singapore's famous food, so why not learn to make it? This fantastic hands-on cooking school explores Singapore's multicultural make-up and sees you cook up classic dishes like laksa, nasi lemak (coconut rice) and Hainanese chicken rice. Courses usually run for three hours and can be tailored for budding cooks with dietary restrictions.

TTours

oOriginal Singapore WalksWALKING

(%65-6325 1631; www.singaporewalks.com; 07-01 D'Centennial Bldg, 100 Lorong 23; adult S$32-62, child 7-12yr S$15-34; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri)

Conducts irreverent but knowledgeable off-the-beaten-track walking tours through Chinatown, Little India, Kampong Glam, the Colonial District, Boat Quay, Haw Par Villa and war-related sites. Rain-or-shine tours last from 2½ to 3½ hours. Bookings are not necessary; check the website for departure times and locations.

SIA Hop-OnBUS

(%65-6338 6877; www.siahopon.com; Suntec Hub, Suntec Mall; 24hr ticket Singapore Airlines passengers adult/child S$19.50/14.50, non-passengers S$39/29)

Singapore Airlines' tourist bus traverses the main tourist arteries every 20 to 30 minutes daily, starting from Singapore Flyer at 9am, with the last bus leaving at 7.40pm and terminating back at Singapore Flyer at 9.10pm. Buy tickets from the driver; see the website for route details.

Singapore River CruiseBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6336 6111; www.rivercruise.com.sg; bumboat river cruise adult/child S$25/15; mClarke Quay)

Runs 40-minute bumboat tours of the Singapore River and Marina Bay. Boats depart about every 15 minutes from various locations, including Clarke Quay, Boat Quay and Marina Bay. A cheaper option is to catch one of the company's river taxis – commuter boats running a similar route; see the website for stops. River-taxi payment is by EZ-Link transport card only.

zFestivals & Events

Singapore’s multicultural population celebrates an amazing number of festivals and events. For a calendar, check out www.yoursingapore.com.

Chinese New Year is the major festival, held in January/February. Look out for parades throughout Chinatown and festive foods in shops. During the Great Singapore Sale in June and July, merchants drop prices to boost Singapore’s image as a shopping destination.

4Sleeping

Once, budget-room-hunters in Singapore were limited to flea-bitten flophouses (they still exist!), but thankfully these days there are good hostels and guesthouses even in the more expensive parts of the city. Most have female-only dorms. Unless otherwise stated, hostel rates we list are for shared bathrooms.

Colonial District & the Quays

oPort by Quarters HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6816 6960; http://theport.stayquarters.com; 50A Boat Quay; s/queen capsule from S$50/90; iW; mClarke Quay, Raffles Place)

Smack bang on the Singapore River, the Port by Quarters Hostel has raised the bar for capsule hostels in Singapore. The sleek single and queen capsules offer under-bed storage, folding workstation, power points and roll-down privacy screen. The best bit, however, is the views – straight over to Parliament and the skyline beyond.

5Footway.Inn Project Boat QuayHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.5footwayinn.com; 76 Boat Quay; dm from S$28, tw from S$80; iW; mClarke Quay)

Right on Boat Quay, the whitewashed dorms come in two-, three- and four-bed configurations, and though rooms are small (superior rooms have windows), they're modern and comfortable, with white wooden bunks and handy bedside power sockets. Bathrooms are modern, reception operates round-the-clock, and the cheap-chic breakfast lounge comes with river-view balcony seating.

River City InnHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6532 6091; www.rivercityinn.com; 33C Hong Kong St; dm from S$26; iW; mClarke Quay)

Its location, on the 4th floor of a shophouse, hasn't deterred backpackers from booking beds here en masse. The communal areas are well done but the 26-bed dorms get just a bit too cosy...

Holiday Inn Express Clarke QuayHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6589 8000; www.hiexpress.com; 2 Magazine Rd; r from S$215; iWs; mClarke Quay)

This smart newcomer delivers modern, earthy-hued rooms with high ceilings, massive floor-to-ceiling windows and comfortable beds with both soft and firm pillows (embroidered on the pillow slip). Small bathrooms come with decent-size showers. Best of all is the rooftop garden, home to a tiny gym and impressive glass-sided pool with spectacular city views. The hotel's self-service laundry room is a handy touch.

Discounted online rates can see rooms offered for under S$200.

Chinatown

oAdler HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6226 0173; www.adlerhostel.com; 265 South Bridge Rd; cabin s/d S$55/110; iW; mChinatown)

Hostelling reaches sophisticated new heights at this self-proclaimed 'poshtel'. Chinese antiques grace the tranquil lobby lounge, fresh towels and feather-down duvets and pillows the beds, and Malin+Goetz products the bathrooms. Airy, air-conditioned dorms consist of custom-made cabins, each with lockable storage and drawable curtain for privacy. Some even feature king-size beds for couples. Book around three weeks ahead for the best rates.

Wink HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6222 2940; www.winkhostel.com; 8A Mosque St; pod s/d S$50/90; iW; mChinatown)

Located in a restored shophouse in the heart of Chinatown, flashbacker favourite Wink merges hostel and capsule-hotel concepts. Instead of bunks, dorms feature private, sound-proof 'pods', each with comfortable mattress, coloured mood lighting, adjacent locker and enough room to sit up in. Communal bathrooms feature rain shower-heads, while the in-house kitchenette, laundry and lounge areas crank up the homely factor.

Beary Good HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6222 4957; www.bearybesthostel.com; 16 Upper Cross St; dm/tw from S$25/75; iW; mChinatown)

So popular it has spawned two branches: the Beary Nice Hostel and the Beary Best, both a stone's throw away at 46 Smith St and 16 Upper Cross St. All are fun, brightly painted affairs and have separate bathrooms for boys and girls a beary nice touch.

Hotel 1929BOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6347 1929; www.hotel1929.com; 50 Keong Saik Rd; r from S$160; iW; mOutram Park, Chinatown)

Occupying a whitewashed heritage building, Hotel 1929 sits on up-and-coming Keong Saik Rd. Rooms are tight, but good use is made of limited space, and interiors are cheerily festooned with vintage designer furniture (look out for reproduction Eames and Jacobsen) and Technicolor mosaic bathrooms.

CAMPING IT UP

The National Parks Board (www.nparks.gov.sg) maintains four camping grounds around Singapore: East Coast Park, West Coast Park and Pasir Ris Park. Permits are free and can be obtained online (www.axs.com.sg) or from several AXS (ATM-like) machines in most malls. There’s a small fee to use the barbecue pits and shower facilities. On Pulau Ubin you can camp at Jelutong or Maman Beaches. The sites are free, but very basic. There’s no drinking water, so bring your own. You can also camp on Palau Hantu, one of Singapore's southern islands: permits are free from Sentosa Leisure Group (www.sentosa.com.sg). You'll need to charter a boat from West Coast Pier and BYO drinking water.

Little India

oBunc@RadiusHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6262 2862; www.bunchostel.com; 15 Upper Weld Rd; dm from S$20, d S$85; iW; mRochor)

Fresh, clean, new-school Bunc@Radius is the coolest flashpacker hostel in town. Concrete floor, art installations and a choice of both iMac and PC computers give the spacious lobby a hip, boutique feel. Dorms – in six-, eight-, 10- and 12-bed configurations – offer both single and double beds, with each thick mattress wrapped in a hygiene cover (no bed bugs!).

InnCrowdHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6296 9169; www.the-inncrowd.com; 73 Dunlop St; dm from S$20; iW; mRochor, Little India)

Wildly popular, the InnCrowd is ground zero for Singapore's backpackers. Located right in the heart of Little India, this funkily painted hostel has helpful staff and all the facilities you'd expect of a decent hostel (travel advice, free internet, wi-fi, DVDs, laundry), plus a few you might not expect (a Wii console and kick-scooter city tours!). Bookings essential.

Green Kiwi Backpackers HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9695 9331; www.greenkiwi.com.sg; 280A Lavender St; dm S$20-25, tw S$79; iW; mFarrer Park, Lavender)

An easy walk from the hipster pocket of Jalan Besar is this popular, well-air-conditioned option. Low-frills dorms (which include a female-only room) feature red, wooden bunks; the communal bathrooms are reassuringly clean. Perks include laundry service (S$8 per load, wash and dry) and a leafy rooftop garden. The latter is a good spot to neck a beer, on sale at reception.

FootprintsHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6295 5134; www.footprintshostel.com.sg; 25A Perak Rd; dm from S$15; iW; mLittle India, Rochor)

A cheap and friendly hostel in Little India. Dorms – which come in beds of six, 10 and 12 – are narrow but bright and clean, with female-only dorms available to boot. The small communal living area is bright with funky artwork feature walls and random chandeliers that could make royalty blush. Guests have access to computers, wi-fi and a coin-operated laundry.

Central 65HOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6298 0015; central65hostel.com; 134 Jln Besar; dm from S$25; iW; mRochor)

Walking distance of Little India, Kampong Glam and hipster 'hood Jalan Besar, this five-floor hostel features open-ended 'pod-like' beds. Rooms are small and only one comes with windows, though this is also the noisiest. The lounge and in/outdoor dining area is large, and the cafe is open 24 hours. The icing on the cake is the rooftop terrace with jacuzzi – nice in the evening.

Albert Court Village HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6339 3939; www.stayfareast.com; 180 Albert St; r from S$200; iW; mRochor, Little India)

A short walk south of Little India is this colonial-era hotel, in a shophouse redevelopment that now shoots up eight storeys. Rooms are classic and spacious, with carved wooden furniture, smallish but spotless bathrooms, and a choice of fan or air-con. Service is top-notch and there's wi-fi throughout. You'll find the best deals online.

Kampong Glam

oFive Stones HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6535 5607; www.fivestoneshostel.com; 285 Beach Rd; dm S$28-37, tw/d S$95/105; iW; mBugis, Nicoll Hwy)

This upbeat, no-shoes hostel comes with polished-concrete floors and both Wii and DVDs in the common lounge, plus complimentary use of washing machines and dryers. While not all dorms have windows, all feature steel-frame bunks, personal power sockets and lamps, and bright, mood-lifting murals depicting local themes. There's an all-female floor, plus private rooms with bunks or a queen-size bed.

PodHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6298 8505; www.thepod.sg; 289 Beach Rd; pod s/d from S$40/75; iW; mBugis, Nicoll Hwy)

Riding the new wave of capsule hotels, the Pod offers sleek accommodation steps from vibrant Kampong Glam. Dorms are modern and sleep 12, in single or double pods; privacy comes in the form of roll-down screens. Each floor has three dorms, a common washroom and three private bathrooms. Extras like free Nespresso coffee, hot breakfast and laundry cement its popularity with the trendy crowd.

5Eating

Singaporean life is best epitomised by the ubiquitous (but wholly unique) hawker centre. Grab a seat, order a super-sweet coffee or a S$6 Tiger beer, join the queue for a local meal and listen to people talk about politics, English Premier League, Hollywood diets and maids. Dishes rarely cost more than S$5 (unless you’re eating seafood), and each centre has a huge variety of cuisines, including Malay, South Indian, Cantonese, Hokkien, Teochew and Indonesian. There are also countless excellent restaurants, though costs are going to spiral up to at least S$12 per plate.

Colonial District

oGluttons BayHAWKER$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.makansutra.com; 01-15, Esplanade Mall, 8 Raffles Ave; dishes from S$5; h5pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, 4pm-1am Sun; mEsplanade)

Selected by the Makansutra Food Guide, this row of alfresco hawker stalls is a great place to start your Singapore food odyssey. Get indecisive over classics like oyster omelette, satay, barbecue stingray and carrot cake (opt for the black version). Its central, bayside location makes it a huge hit, so head in early or late to avoid the frustrating hunt for a table.

Singapore Food TrailHAWKER$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.singaporefoodtrail.com.sg; Singapore Flyer, 30 Raffles Ave; dishes S$5-15; h10.30am-10.30pm Sun-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri & Sat; mPromenade)

Retro-inspired re-creation of the hawker stalls from 1960s Singapore, except with air-conditioning. A good alternative to Gluttons Bay, located under the shadow of the Singapore Flyer.

National Kitchen by Violet OonPERANAKAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9834 9935; www.violetoon.com; National Gallery Singapore, 1 St Andrew's Rd; dishes S$15-42; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm; mCity Hall)

Chef Violet Oon is a national treasure, much loved for her faithful Peranakan (Chinese-Malay fusion) dishes – so much so that she was chosen to open her latest venture inside Singapore's showcase National Gallery. Feast on made-from-scratch beauties like sweet, spicy kueh pie tee (prawn- and yam bean–stuffed pastry cups), dry laksa and fried turmeric chicken wings with chinchalok sambal.

CBD, Marina Bay & the Quays

oSatay by the BayHAWKER$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.gardensbythebay.com.sg; Gardens by the Bay, 18 Marina Gardens Dr; dishes from S$4; hfood stalls vary, drinks stall 24hr; mBayfront)

Gardens by the Bay's own hawker centre has an enviable location, alongside Marina Bay and far from the roar of city traffic. Especially evocative at night, it's known for its satay, best devoured under open skies on the spacious wooden deck. As you'd expect, prices are a little higher than at more local hawker centres, with most dishes between S$8 and S$10.

oYa Kun Kaya ToastCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6438 3638; www.yakun.com; 01-01 Far East Sq, 18 China St; kaya toast set S$4.80; h7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat, 8.30am-3pm Sun & Sun; mTelok Ayer)

Though it's now part of a chain, this airy, retro coffeeshop is an institution, and the best way to start the day the Singaporean way. The specialty is buttery kaya (coconut jam) toast, dipped in runny egg (add black pepper and a few drops of soy sauce) and washed down with strong kopi (coffee).

Rasapura MastersHAWKER$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6506 0161; www.rasapura.com.sg; B2-50, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Ave; dishes from S$6; hfood court 24hr, stall hours vary; W; mBayfront)

If you prefer your hawker grub with a side of air-con, head down to this bustling, gleaming food court in the basement of the Marina Bay Sands mall. Its stalls cover most bases, from Japanese ramen and Korean kimchi to Hong Kong roast meats and local bak kut teh (pork-bone tea soup).

Super LocoMEXICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6235 8900; www.super-loco.com; 01-13, Robertson Quay; tacos S$8-12, quesadillas S$14-16; h5-10.30pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 10am-3.30pm & 5-11pm Sat, to 10pm Sun; g51, 64, 123, 143, 186)

The only thing missing is a beach at this breezy hipster cantina, complete with Mexican party vibe, pink-neon Spanish and playful barkeeps in Cancún-esque shirts. Get the good times rolling with a competent frozen margarita, then lick your lips over the standout ceviche, zingy crab and avocado tostada, and the damn fine carne asada (grilled meat) and pescado (fish) tacos.

Chinatown

oMaxwell Food CentreHAWKER$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Maxwell & South Bridge Rds; dishes from S$2.50; hstalls hours vary; v; mChinatown)

One of Chinatown's most accessible hawker centres, Maxwell is a solid spot to savour some of the city's street-food staples. While stalls slip in and out of favour with Singapore's fickle diners, enduring favourites include Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 01-10 Maxwell Food Centre, cnr Maxwell & South Bridge Rds; chicken rice from S$3.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; mChinatown) and Rojak, Popiah & Cockle ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 01-56 Maxwell Food Centre, cnr Maxwell & South Bridge Rds; popiah S$2.50, rojak from S$3; hnoon-10.30pm; mChinatown).

oChinatown ComplexHAWKER$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 11 New Bridge Rd; dishes from S$3; hstall hours vary; mChinatown)

Leave Smith St's revamped 'Chinatown Food Street' to the out-of-towners and join old-timers and foodies at this nearby labyrinth. The 25-minute wait for mixed claypot rice at Lian He Ben Ji Claypot Rice ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6227 2470; 02-198/199 Chinatown Complex, 11 New Bridge Rd; dishes S$2.50-20, claypot rice from S$5; h4.30-10pm Fri-Wed; mChinatown) is worth it, while the rich and nutty satay at Shi Xiang Satay ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 02-79 Chinatown Complex, 11 New Bridge Rd; satay from S$6; h3.30-9pm Fri-Wed; mChinatown) is insane. For a little TLC, opt for Ten Tonic Ginseng Chicken Soup at Bonne Soup ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/SingaporeBestHawkerSoup; Stall 02-05, Chinatown Complex, 11 New Bridge Rd; soups from S$2.80; h10am-8pm; mChinatown).

Ginza Tendon ItsukiJAPANESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6221 6678; www.tendon-itsuki.sg; 101 Tanjong Pagar Rd; mains S$12.90-13.90; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-10pm; v; mTanjong Pagar)

Life's few certainties include taxes, death and a queue outside this dedicated tendon (tempura served on rice) eatery. Patience is rewarded with cries of irrashaimase! (welcome) and generous bowls of Japanese comfort grub. Both the tempura and rice are cooked to perfection, drizzled in sweet and sticky soy sauce, and served with chawanmushi (Japanese egg custard), miso soup and pickled vegetables. A cash-only bargain.

Jing Hua Xiao ChiCHINESE$

(Qun Zhong Eating House; GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6221 3060; www.jinghua.sg; 21 Neil Rd; dishes S$3.50-11; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-9.30pm Thu-Tue; mChinatown)

Locals outnumber out-of-towners at halogen-and-laminex Jing Hua. Tuck into a limited yet satisfying repertoire of northern Chinese classics, among them plump pork dumplings, noodles with minced pork and soya-bean sauce, and red-bean-paste pancake. Skip the lacklustre xiao long bao for the moreish Chinese pizza, a hearty, deep-fried pastry packed with minced prawn, pork and crab, and spring onion. Cash only.

ART-DECO HIP: TIONG BAHRU

Hipsters (beards optional!) have been drawn to the heritage Tiong Bahru neighbourhood for its unique low-rise art-deco flats and cluster of bars, cafes and boutiques. Hit new-school-cool Yong Siak Street for indie bookstores and boutiques before heading to the Tiong Bahru Market & Food Centre for cheap local eats. Sweet tooths should pop into Tiong Bahru Bakery to sample its signature kouign amann (breton cake). Take the MRT to Tiong Bahru station, walk east along Tiong Bahru Rd for 350m, then turn right onto Kim Pong Rd.

Little India

Tekka CentreHAWKER$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Serangoon & Buffalo Rds; dishes S$3-10; h7am-11pm; v; mLittle India)

There's no shortage of subcontinental spice at this bustling hawker centre, wrapped around the sloshed guts and hacked bones of the wet market. Queue up for real-deal biryani, dosa (thin, lentil-flour pancake), roti prata and teh tarik (pulled tea). Well worth seeking out is Ah-Rahman Royal Prata ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 01-248, Tekka Centre, cnr Serangoon & Buffalo Rds; murtabak from S$5; h7.30am-10.30pm Tue-Sun; mLittle India), which flips some of Singapore's finest murtabak (stuffed savoury pancake).

Ananda BhavanINDIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6295 9895; www.anandabhavan.com; 58 Serangoon Rd; dosa S$2.60-5.20, set meals S$6-10; h7.30am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 10.30pm Fri-Sun; v; mLittle India)

This super-cheap chain restaurant is a top spot to sample south Indian breakfast staples like idly (fermented-rice cakes) and dosa (thin, lentil-flour pancake; spelt ‘thosai’ on the menu). It also does great-value thali, some of which are served on banana leaves. Other outlets are at 58 Serangoon Rd, 95 Syed Alwi Rd and Changi Airport’s Terminal 2.

Moghul SweetsSWEETS$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6392 5797; 01-16, Little India Arcade, 48 Serangoon Rd; sweets from S$1; h9.30am-9.30pm; mLittle India)

If you’re after a subcontinental sugar rush, tiny Moghul is the place to get it. Bite into luscious gulab jamun (syrup-soaked fried dough balls), harder-to-find rasmalai (paneer cheese soaked in cardamom-infused clotted cream) and barfi (condensed milk and sugar slice) in flavours including pistachio, chocolate…and carrot.

Two BakersBAKERY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6293 0329; www.two-bakers.com; 88 Horne Rd; pastries & cakes S$6.80-10.90; h9am-7pm Sun & Mon, 11.30am-9pm Wed & Thu, 10am-10pm Fri & Sat; mLavender)

The bakers at this light, contemporary bakery-cafe earned their stripes at Paris' Cordon Bleu. The result? Irresistible sweet treats and countless broken diets. Which tart to choose: the crowd favourite yuzu lemon or the decadent Purple Gold (lavender-infused chocolate ganache, caramel ganache, caramel tuile and roasted almonds)? What the hell: order both!

Kampong Glam

oWarong Nasi PariamanMALAYSIAN, INDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6292 2374; www.pariaman.com.sg; 742 North Bridge Rd; dishes from S$4.50; h8am-4pm; mBugis)

This no-frills corner nasi padang (rice with curries) stall is the stuff of legend. Top choices include the belado (fried mackerel in a slow-cooked chilli, onion and vinegar sauce), delicate rendang beef and ayam bakar (grilled chicken with coconut sauce). Get here by 11am to avoid the hordes. And be warned: most of it sells out by 1pm (10am Saturday).

oZam ZamMALAYSIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6298 6320; 699 North Bridge Rd; murtabak from S$5, dishes S$4-20; h7am-11pm; mBugis)

These guys have been here since 1908, so they know what they're doing. Tenure hasn't bred complacency, though – the touts still try to herd customers in off the street while frenetic chefs inside whip up delicious murtabak, the restaurant's speciality savoury pancakes, filled with succulent mutton, chicken, beef, venison or even sardines.

QS269 Food HouseHAWKER$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; block 269B, Queen St; hindividual stalls vary; mBugis)

This is not so much a 'food house' as a loud, crowded undercover laneway lined with cult-status stalls. Work up a sweat with a bowl of award-winning coconut-curry noodle soup from Ah Heng Curry Chicken Bee Hoon Mee ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/AhHengChickenCurryNoodles; stall 01-236, block 269B, Queen St; dishes from S$4; h8am-4.30pm Sat-Thu; mBugis) or join the queue at New Rong Liang Ge Cantonese Roast Duck Boiled Soup ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; stall 01-235, block 269B, Queen St; dishes from S$2.50; h9am-8pm; mBugis), with succulent roast-duck dishes that draw foodies from across the city.

Nan Hwa Chong Fish-Head Steamboat CornerCHINESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6297 9319; www.nanhwachong.com; 812-816 North Bridge Rd; fish steamboats from S$20; h4pm-1am; mLavender)

If you only try fish-head steamboat once, do it at this noisy, open-fronted veteran. Cooked on charcoal, the large pot of fish heads is brought to you in steaming tee po (dried flat sole fish) spiked broth. One pot is enough for three or four people, and can stretch to more with rice and side dishes.

Orchard Road

Food RepublicFOOD COURT$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6737 9881; www.foodrepublic.com.sg; Level 4, Wisma Atria, 435 Orchard Rd; dishes S$4-15; h10am-10pm; W; mOrchard)

A cornucopia of street food in air-conditioned comfort. Muck in with the rest of the crowd for seats before joining the longest queues for dishes spanning Japan, Korea and Thailand, to India, Indonesia and, quite rightly, Singapore.

Takashimaya Food VillageFOOD COURT$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6506 0458; www.takashimaya.com.sg; B2 Takashimaya Department Store, Ngee Ann City, 391 Orchard Rd; dishes S$4-17; h10am-9.30pm; mOrchard)

In the basement of Japanese department store Takashimaya, this polished, expansive food hall serves up a Who's Who of Japanese and other Asian culinary classics. If comfort food is on the agenda, order a fragrant bowl of noodles from the Tsuru-koshi stand. The hall is also home to a large Cold Storage supermarket.

SPLURGE

If you're craving breakfast for lunch head to LoKal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6423 9918; www.thelokalsingapore.com; 136 Neil Rd; dishes S$5-28; h8am-5pm Mon, until 10pm Tue-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, to 4pm Sun; W; mOutram Park), which serves wholesome homemade dishes until 3.30pm. You can 'pimp' your brunch with a range of add-ons.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Drinking in Singapore is expensive. The cheapest way to drink is to park yourself in a hawker centre, where beers cost S$6 to S$8 for a large bottle. If you’re hitting bars and clubs, start early: happy hours generally finish at 9pm. The main drinking places include Clarke and Boat Quays, and Emerald Hill Rd off Orchard Rd. Most bars open from 5pm daily until at least midnight Sunday to Thursday, and until 2am on Friday and Saturday.

Colonial District

oLoofBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9773 9304; www.loof.com.sg; 03-07 Odeon Towers Bldg, 331 North Bridge Rd; h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; mCity Hall)

Red neon warmly declares 'Glad you came up' at upbeat Loof, its name the Singlish mangling of the word 'roof'. Sit on the leafy rooftop deck and look out over the Raffles Hotel and Marina Bay Sands with a calamansi-spiked Singapore sour in hand. The great-value weekday happy hour lasts from 5pm to 8pm, with the cheapest drinks early on.

OrgoBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6336 9366; www.orgo.sg; 4th fl, Esplanade Roof Tce, 8 Raffles Ave; h6pm-1.30am; mEsplanade, City Hall)

It's hard not to feel like the star of a Hollywood rom-com at rooftop Orgo, its view of the skyline so commanding you'll almost feel obliged to play out a tear-jerking scene. Don't. Instead, slip into a wicker armchair, order a vino (you'll get better cocktails elsewhere) and Instagram the view to the sound of soft conversation and sultry tunes.

SPLURGE

It’s a compulsory and costly cliché to sink a Singapore Sling (S$30) in the Long Bar (open 11am to 12.30am) at Raffles Hotel. However, if you'd like more bang for your buck, perch up at one of Singapore's rooftop bars and catch the skyline sunset, eye-wateringly priced drink in hand. Our picks are Level 33 and Cé la Vi Club Lounge for different vistas of the Lion City.

CBD & the Quays

Clarke Quay is a popular (though very gaudy) nightspot in Singapore. If you don't mind mingling with off-work suits, bars around the CBD area (Raffles Pl) are cheap after 5pm.

Boat Quay is a popular boozing haunt for expat city workers.

CÉ LA VI SkyBarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6688 7688; www.sg.celavi.com; level 57, Marina Bay Sands Hotel Tower 3, 10 Bayfront Ave; hnoon-late; mBayfront)

Perched on Marina Bay Sands' cantilevered SkyPark, this bar offers spectacular views of the skyline and beyond. A dress code kicks in from 6pm (no shorts, singlets or flip-flops). Entry is via the lobby of Marina Bay Sands.

Level 33MICROBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6834 3133; www.level33.com.sg; level 33, Marina Bay Financial Tower 1, 8 Marina Blvd; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, noon-2am Fri & Sat; W; mDowntown)

In a country obsessed with unique selling points, this one takes the cake – no, keg. Laying claim to being the world's highest 'urban craft brewery', Level 33 brews its own lager, pale ale, stout, porter and wheat beer. It's all yours to slurp alfresco with a jaw-dropping view over Marina Bay. Bargain hunters, take note: beers are cheaper before 8pm.

AtticaCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6333 9973; www.attica.com.sg; 01-03, Clarke Quay, 3A River Valley Rd; h10pm-late Wed-Sat; mClarke Quay)

Attica has secured a loyal following among Singapore's fickle clubbers, modelling itself on New York's hippest clubs but losing the attitude somewhere over the Pacific. Locals will tell you it's where the expats go to pick up on the weekends, mostly in the courtyard. Beats span chart hits, house and R&B; check the website for themed nights.

ZoukCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.zoukclub.com; 17 Jiak Kim St; hZouk 11pm-late Wed, Fri & Sat, Phuture 10pm-late Wed, Fri & Sat, 9pm-3am Thu, Velvet Underground 10pm-late Wed, Fri & Sat, Wine Bar 6pm-2am Tue, 6pm-3am Wed & Thu, 6pm-4am Fri & Sat; g5, 16, 75, 175, 195, 970)

Set to move to Clarke Quay (at Block C, The Cannery, River Valley Rd) in May 2016, Singapore's premier club draws some of the world's biggest DJs. Choose between the multilevel main club, the hip-hop-centric Phuture or the plush Velvet Underground, slung with original artworks by Andy Warhol, Frank Stella and Takashi Murakami. Take a taxi, and prepare to queue.

Chinatown

Tanjong Pagar Rd has an active LGBT bar scene but welcomes drinkers regardless of their sexuality. The sophisticated bars of Club Street and Ann Siang Hill are housed in attractive, restored shophouses (many are closed Sunday).

oOperation DaggerCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6438 4057; www.operationdagger.com; 7 Ann Siang Hill; h6pm-late Tue-Sat; mChinatown, Telok Ayer)

From the 'cloud-like' light sculpture to the boundary-pushing cocktails, 'extraordinary' is the keyword here. To encourage experimentation, libations are described by flavour, not spirit, the latter shelved in uniform, apothecary-like bottles. Whether you sample the sesame-infused complexity of the Gomashio, the textural surprise of the Hot & Cold or the bar's raw chocolate–infused vino, prepare to fall deeply in love.

Oxwell & CoBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6438 3984; www.oxwellandco.com; 5 Ann Siang Rd; h4pm-midnight Mon & Sat, noon-midnight Tue-Fri & Sun; W; mChinatown, Telok Ayer)

Laced with cockfighting posters, machinery-turned-furniture and exposed copper pipes, jumping Oxwell & Co feels like a saloon crossed with a vintage workshop. Happy-hour deals (4pm to 8pm daily) include S$10 cocktails on tap. If it's on offer, try the brilliant Gin & Chronic, a sprightly blend of clove- and nutmeg-infused gin, soda water and fresh calamansi.

Potato Head FolkCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %65-6327 1939; www.pttheadfolk.com; 36 Keong Saik Rd; hStudio 1939 & rooftop bar 5pm-midnight Tue-Sun; W; mOutram Park)

Offshoot of the legendary Bali bar, this standout, multi-level playground incorporates three spaces, all reached via a chequered stairwell pimped with creepy storybook murals and giant glowing dolls. Skip the Three Buns burger joint and head straight for the dark, plush glamour of cocktail lounge Studio 1939 or the laidback frivolity of the rooftop tiki bar.

Good Beer CompanyBEER STALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9430 2750; www.facebook.com/goodbeersg; 02-58 Chinatown Complex, 11 New Bridge Rd; h6-10pm Mon-Sat; mChinatown)

Injecting Chinatown Complex with a dose of new-school cool, this hawker-centre beer stall has an impressive booty of bottled craft suds, from Japanese Hitachino Nest to Belgian Trappistes Rochefort. A few stalls down is Smith Street Taps ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9430 2750; www.facebook.com/smithstreettaps; 02-62 Chinatown Complex, 11 New Bridge Rd; h6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat; mChinatown), run by a friendly dude and offering a rotating selection of craft and premium beers on tap.

Little India & Kampong Glam

DruggistsBEER HALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6341 5967; www.facebook.com/DruggistsSG; 119 Tyrwhitt Rd; h4pm-midnight Tue-Fri, noon-midnight Sat & Sun; mFarrer Park, Lavender)

Druggists is indeed addictive for beer aficionados. Its row of 23 taps pour a rotating selection of craft brews from cognoescenti brewers like Denmark's Mikkeller and Britain's Magic Rock. The week's beers are scribbled on the blackboard, with the option of 250mL or 500mL pours. Sud-friendly grub is also available, though the place is best for drinking, not eating.

ArtistryCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6298 2420; www.artistryspace.com; 17 Jln Pinang; h9am-11pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun; W; mBugis)

Killer coffee, rotating art exhibitions and monthly after-hours events, including singer-songwriter nights: Artistry is a hipster version of the cultural salon. Swig interesting artisanal beers and ciders or tuck into fresh, delicious grub (served till 5pm) like guilt-inducing BRB (blueberry, ricotta and bacon) pancakes or the cross-cultural chilli-crab burger.