HALIBUT POACHED WITH SCALLIONS AND MISO

20 MINUTES (15 ACTIVE)

4 SERVINGS AND 1 LUNCH THE NEXT DAY

In spring, while the chilly weather still demands something soothing, I simultaneously crave freshness and warmth. This meal straddles both desires, with crisp-tender spears of asparagus set off against a rich-but-light miso-mushroom combination. The headliner is halibut, the first great fish of the year to reenter our Northwest markets. Snow white and flaky halibut is a lean fish, so it does well when poached in a broth like this. Feel free to substitute other fish, of course: Arctic char, turbot, striped bass, or steelhead would also work well.

•  1½ pounds halibut fillets, skinned, cut into 5 portions

•  Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

•  3½ teaspoons canola oil

•  1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into 4 disks

•  4 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps sliced ¼ inch thick

•  1 bunch scallions (white and light green parts), thinly sliced, dark green stalks reserved

•  2 tablespoons white miso

Season the fish with salt and pepper.

In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 teaspoons of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the ginger and mushrooms. Cook until the mushrooms are browned on one side, about 2 minutes, then add a pinch of salt and stir. Cook for 1 minute, then add the sliced scallions. Cook for 1 minute, stirring frequently. Add 2 cups water and the miso, whisking to dissolve the miso in the liquid. Bring to a boil, then turn off the heat. Pour the broth into a bowl or saucepan and rinse and wipe out the pan.

Heat the remaining 1½ teaspoons oil in the pan over high heat. Place the fish in the pan, top side down, and cook, undisturbed, for 1½ minutes, until lightly browned. Turn the fish over, turn the heat down to medium, and pour in the miso-mushroom broth. Top with the scallion greens, pushing gently to immerse them in the liquid. Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer and poach the fish until just opaque at the center, 1 to 2 minutes.

Serve the fish with the broth, mushrooms, and scallion tops.