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Aïoli:
Le Grand, 48
Grilled Breast of Chicken with Provençal Vegetables and, 29–30
Anchovy(ies), 4–10
Hollandaise, Spinach Mousse with, 196
Jeremiah Tower’s Montpellier Butter, 6
Old-Fashioned Egg Sauce, 6–7
and Onion Tarts, 8–10
Roast Leg of Lamb with Garlic, Rosemary and, 115
and Rosemary Butter, Grilled Veal Kidneys with, 109–10
Rouille, 175
Rowley’s Vinaigrette of Red Peppers and, 151
Salade Niçoise, 7–8
Artichoke(s):
Salade Niçoise, 7–8
and Scallop Soup, 188–89
Asparagus, 11–15
Délices d’Argenteuil, 13–14
Grilled, with Parmesan, 14–15
Soup, 13
Bacon, 154–55
Oeufs en Meurette, 82–83
Piperade, 82
Roasted Leg of Rabbit with a Mustard Sauce and, 171–72
Roast Squab with Braised Lettuce, Peas and, 199
Salade Frisée aux Lardons, 83–84
Bareham, Lindsey, 146, 161, 214
Basil:
Chilled Pimiento Soup with, 153
Cream Sauce, Roast Best End of Lamb with Eggplant and, 117–18
Grilled Eggplant with a Dressing of Olive Oil, Garlic and, 75
Grilled Eggplant with Pesto, 78
Potato, and Tomato Soup, 165–66
Tomato and Pesto Tarts, 213–14
Bertolli, Paul, 156
Bilson, Gay, 69, 91, 150, 167
Parsley Salad, 145–46
Blanc, Georges, 30, 127
Brains, Calves’, 16–21
Cervelles au Beurre Noir, 18–19
Deep-Fried, with Sauce Gribiche, 20–21
Gratin of, with Sorrel, 18
Salad of, with Sauce Ravigote, 19–20
Sauté of, with Cilantro, Chillies, Ginger, and Garlic, 21
Bread and Butter Pudding, 68–69
Butter:
Jeremiah Tower’s Montpellier, 6
Rosemary and Anchovy, Grilled Veal Kidneys with, 109–10
Snail, 96
Cabbage, Roasted Lambs’ Kidneys with Mustard Dressing and, 109
Capers, Warm Hake with Thinned Mayonnaise and, 104
Caramel:
Crème Brûlée, 62–63
Crème Renversée à l’Orange, 69–70
Ice Cream, 64–65
Carey, Charles, 75
Casas, Penelope, 217
Cèpe(s), 22–25
and Potato Broth, 25
Tarts, 24
Champeau, Yves, 87, 88, 92, 203
Cheese:
Creamed Goat’s, Baked New Garlic with, 94
Endives au Gratin, 89–90
See also Parmesan
Chicken, 26–33
Grilled Breast of, with Provençal Vegetables and Aïoli, 29–30
Poulet Poché à la Crème with Crêpes Parmentier, 30–32
Poulet Sauté au Vinaigre, 32–33
Roast, 28
Chilli(es):
Green Paste, 43
Grilled Red Onion Relish, 135–36
Salsa, 43–44
Sauté of Calves’ Brains with Cilantro, Ginger, Garlic and, 21
Vinegared Eggplant with Spring Onion and, 79
Chocolate, 34–40
Bavarois, 39
Milk, Malt Ice Cream, 37
Petit Pot au Chocolat, 39–40
Pithiviers, 38–39
Saint-Émilion au Chocolat, 36–37
Tart, 36
Cilantro, 41–46
and Coconut Soup, 45–46
Dipping Sauce, 45
Green Paste, 43
Marinated and Grilled Lamb Cutlets with Hummus, Olive Oil and, 115–17
Oriental Salad, 44–45
Pimiento Salsa, 149–50
Salsa, 43–44
Sauté of Calves’ Brains with Chillies, Ginger, Garlic and, 21
Coconut and Cilantro Soup, 45–46
Cod, 47–53
Brandade de Morue, 52–53
Deep-Fried, 50–51
Le Grand Aïoli, 48
Poached, with Lentils and Salsa Verde, 49–50
Poached, with Pickled Vegetable Relish, 51–52
Conran, Terence, 167
Cost, Bruce, 79
Costa, Margaret, 66–67, 188
Coulson, Francis, 62
Strawberry Pots de Crème, 61
Crab, 54–57
Tart, 57
Vinaigrette with Herbs, 56
Crackers, Crisp Parmesan, 142
Cream, 58–65
Braised Rabbit with White Wine, Shallots, Rosemary and, 169
Caramel Ice Cream, 64–65
Crema Catalana, 71
Crème Brûlée, 62–63
Crème Chantilly, 60
Eggplant Baked with Herbs and, 77–78
Francis Coulson’s Strawberry Pots de Crème, 61
Fruit Fool, 60–61
Leeks with Mint and, 122
Milk Chocolate Malt Ice Cream, 37
Rice Pudding, 63–64
Saffron Dressing, 176
Sauce, Basil, Roast Best End of Lamb with Eggplant and, 117–18
Smoked Haddock Baked with Potatoes and, 191
Vanilla Ice Cream, 65
Crêpes Parmentier:
Duck Livers, and Onion Marmalade, 127–28
Poulet Poché à la Crème with, 30–32
Croûtons, Parmesan, Garlic and Sorrel Soup with, 96–97
Cucumber, Pickled, Poached Salmon with Hollandaise Sauce and, 183–84
Currants, Salmon in Pastry with Ginger and, 180
Curried Smoked Haddock Soup, 192–93
Custard, 66–72
Bread and Butter Pudding, 68–69
Crema Catalana, 71
Crème Brûlée, 62–63
Crème Renversée à l’Orange, 69–70
Francis Coulson’s Strawberry Pots de Crème, 61
Lemon Surprise Pudding, 68
Orange Mousse, 72
Passion Fruit Bavarois, 71–72
Sauce, 70
David, Elizabeth, 5, 36, 60, 76, 113, 129, 130, 148, 156, 179
Dipping Sauce, 45
Rouille, 175
Dumplings, Spinach, 196–97
Egg(s), 81–86
Délices d’Argenteuil, 13–14
Florentine, 84–85
Lacy’s Oeufs en Cocotte, 85–86
Oeufs en Meurette, 82–83
Omelette Arnold Bennett, 191–92
Piperade, 82
Salade Frisée aux Lardons, 83–84
Salade Niçoise, 7–8
Sauce, Old-Fashioned, 6–7
Eggplant, 73–80
Baked with Herbs and Cream, 77–78
Creamed, 77
Grilled, with a Dressing of Olive Oil, Garlic, and Basil, 75
Grilled, with Pesto, 78
Grilled, with Sesame, 79–80
Grilled Breast of Chicken with Provençal Vegetables and Aïoli, 29–30
Roast Best End of Lamb with Basil Cream Sauce and, 117–18
Roulade of Peppers and, 150
Salad, Spiced, 76–77
Vinegared, with Chilli and Spring Onion, 79
Endive(s), 87–91
Braised, 89
Creamed, 90
au Gratin, 89–90
Pickled, 91
Fennel, Grilled Salmon, and Sauce Verte Salad, 182–83
Fool, Fruit, 60–61
Frisée, Salade aux Lardons, 83–84
Fritters, Parmesan, 141–42
Fruit Fool, 60–61
Garlic, 92–97
Baked New, with Creamed Goat’s Cheese, 94
Cold Spinach with Crème Fraîche, Black Pepper and, 197
Deep-Fried, 94–95
Grilled Eggplant with a Dressing of Olive Oil, Basil and, 75
Purée and Sauce, 95–96
Roast Leg of Lamb with Anchovy, Rosemary and, 115
Roast Potatoes with Olive Oil, Rosemary and, 163
Sauté of Calves’ Brains with Cilantro, Chillies, Ginger and, 21
Slow-Braised Belly Pork with Soy, Ginger and, 158–59
Snail Butter, 96
and Sorrel Soup with Parmesan Croûtons, 96–97
Ginger:
Salmon in Pastry with Currants and, 180
Sauté of Calves’ Brains with Cilantro, Chillies, Garlic and, 21
Slow-Braised Belly Pork with Soy, Garlic and, 158–59
Girardet, Frédy, 131
Glaze, Meat, 204–5
Gratin:
of Brains with Sorrel, 18
Endive au, 89–90
Green Paste, 43
Deep-Fried Tripe with, 218–19
Greens, Warm Wilted, Prosciutto with, 156–57
Grigson, Jane, 223
Grouse, 98–101
Roast, with Bread Sauce and Game Crumbs, 99–100
Soup, 101
Guérard, Michel, 32, 127
Haddock. See Smoked Haddock
Hake, 102–6
Basque Chiorro, 105–6
Fillet of, with Herb Crust, 105
Warm, with Thinned Mayonnaise and Capers, 104
Ham:
Boiled, a Sauce to Serve with, 156
Endives au Gratin, 89–90
See also Prosciutto
Hummus, Marinated and Grilled Lamb Cutlets with Olive Oil, Cilantro and, 115–17
Ice Cream:
Caramel, 64–65
Milk Chocolate Malt, 37
Vanilla, 65
Kidneys, 107–11
Grilled Veal, with Rosemary and Anchovy Butter, 109–10
Roasted Lambs’, with Cabbage and Mustard Dressing, 109
Sauté of Veal, with Shallots, Sage, and Beurre Noisette, 110–11
Koffman, Pierre, 199
Lacy’s, 66–67
Oeufs en Cocotte, 85–86
Lamb, 112–18
Breast of, Ste-Ménéhould, 114
Marinated and Grilled Cutlets with Hummus, Olive Oil, and Cilantro, 115–17
Roast Best End of, with Eggplant and Basil Cream Sauce, 117–18
Roast Leg of, with Anchovy, Garlic, and Rosemary, 115
Sweetbreads, Blanquette of, 210–11
Leek(s), 119–23
with Cream and Mint, 122
Parsley Soup, 146–47
Tart, 121–22
Vichyssoise, 122–23
Vinaigrette, 121
Leigh, Rowley, 151
Vinaigrette of Red Peppers and Anchovy, 151
Lemon Surprise Pudding, 68
Lentils:
Petit Salé aux Lentilles, 159–60
Poached Cod with Salsa Verde and, 49–50
Lettuce, Braised, Roast Squab with Peas, Bacon and, 199
Liver(s), 124–28
Calves’, Venetian Style, 125
Duck, Crêpes Parmentier, and Onion Marmalade, 127–28
Poultry, Richard Olney’s Terrine of, 125–27
Madison, Deborah, 165
Marfell, John, 119
Meat Glaze, 204–5
Mint:
Leeks with Cream and, 122
Pimiento Salsa, 149–50
Molyneux, Joyce, 16–17
Mousse:
Orange, 72
Spinach, with Anchovy Hollandaise, 196
Mushrooms:
Blanquette of Lamb’s Sweetbreads, 210–11
Oeufs en Meurette, 82–83
Ris de Veau aux Morilles, 208–9
See also Cèpe
Mussels, Saffron Soup with, 176–77
Mustard:
Dressing, Roasted Lambs’ Kidneys with Cabbage and, 109
Sauce, Roasted Leg of Rabbit with Bacon and, 171–72
Olive Oil, 129–32
Grilled Eggplant with a Dressing of Garlic, Basil and, 75
Marinated and Grilled Lamb Cutlets with Hummus, Cilantro and, 115–17
Mashed Potatoes, 131
Roast Potatoes with Rosemary, Garlic and, 163
Sauce Vièrge, 131–32
Vinaigrette, 132
Olney, Richard, 125–26
Terrine of Poultry Livers, 125–27
Onion(s), 133–38
and Anchovy Tarts, 8–10
Blanquette of Lamb’s Sweetbreads, 210–11
Creamed, with Rosemary, 137
Grilled Red, Relish, 135–36
Marmalade, Duck Livers and Crêpes Parmentier with, 127–28
Piperade, 82
Roast, 135
Soup, 137–38
Spring, Vinegared Eggplant with Chilli and, 79
Tart, 136–37
Orange:
Crème Renversée à l’Orange, 69–70
Mousse, 72
Parmesan, 139–42
Crackers, Crisp, 142
Croûtons, Garlic and Sorrel Soup with, 96–97
Fritters, 141–42
Grilled Asparagus with, 14–15
Parsley, 143–47
Potato Purée with, 145
Salad, Gay Bilson’s, 145–46
Soup, 146–47
Parsnip Purée, Stewed Rabbit with Balsamic Vinegar and, 170
Passion Fruit Bavarois, 71–72
Pastry:
Salmon in, with Currants and Ginger, 180
See also Tarts
Peas, Roast Squab with Braised Lettuce, Bacon and, 199
Pepper(s), 148–53
Chilled Pimiento Soup with Basil, 153
Gazpacho, 152–53
Grilled Breast of Chicken with Provençal Vegetables and Aïoli, 29–30
Piedmontese, 149
Pimiento Salsa, 149–50
Piperade, 82
Red, Rowley’s Vinaigrette of Anchovy and, 151
Red, Tart, 151–52
Roulade of Eggplant and, 150
Perry-Smith, George, 36, 119, 179
Pesto:
Grilled Eggplant with, 78
and Tomato Tarts, 213–14
Pomiane, Edouard de, 213
Pork, 154–55
Petit Salé aux Lentilles, 159–60
Slow-Braised Belly, with Soy, Ginger, and Garlic, 158–59
Terrine, Old-Fashioned, 157–58
See also Bacon; Ham
Potato(es), 161–66
Blanquette of Lamb’s Sweetbreads, 210–11
Cakes, 163–64
and Cèpe Broth, 25
French Fries, 164
Olive Oil Mashed, 131
Purée with Parsley, 145
Roast, with Olive Oil, Rosemary, and Garlic, 163
Saffron Mashed, 175
Salad, 165
Salade Niçoise, 7–8
Smoked Haddock Baked with Cream and, 191
Tomato, and Basil Soup, 165–66
Vichyssoise, 122–23
Prosciutto:
Délices d’Argenteuil, 13–14
Saltimbocca alla Romana, 222–23
with Warm Wilted Greens, 156–57
Puck, Wolfgang, 37
Puddings:
Bread and Butter, 68–69
Lemon Surprise, 68
Rice, 63–64
See also Custard
Rabbit, 167–72
Braised, with White Wine, Shallots, Rosemary, and Cream, 169
Roasted Leg of, with Bacon and a Mustard Sauce, 171–72
Stewed, with Balsamic Vinegar and Parsnip Purée, 170
Terrine, 170–71
Rice Pudding, 63–64
Rosemary:
and Anchovy Butter, Grilled Veal Kidneys with, 109–10
Braised Rabbit with White Wine, Shallots, Cream and, 169
Creamed Onions with, 137
Roast Leg of Lamb with Anchovy, Garlic and, 115
Roast Potatoes with Olive Oil, Garlic and, 163
Saffron, 173–77
Cream Dressing, 176
Mashed Potatoes, 175
Rouille, 175
Soup with Mussels, 176–77
Sage, Sauté of Veal Kidneys with Shallots, Beurre Noisette and, 110–11
Salads:
Calves’ Brains with Sauce Ravigote, 19–20
Frisée aux Lardons, 83–84
Gay Bilson’s Parsley, 145–46
Grilled Salmon, Sauce Verte, and Fennel, 182–83
Niçoise, 7–8
Oriental, 44–45
Potato, 165
Spiced Eggplant, 76–77
Salmon, 178–84
Ceviche of, 184
Grilled, Sauce Verte, and Fennel Salad, 182–83
in Pastry with Currants and Ginger, 180
Poached, Hollandaise Sauce, and Pickled Cucumber, 183–84
Poached, with Beurre Blanc, 180–82
Salsa, 43–44
Ceviche of Salmon, 184
Pimiento, 149–50
Verde, Poached Cod with Lentils and, 49–50
Sauces:
Aïoli, 29–30
Basil Cream, 117–18
Béarnaise, 85–86
Béchamel, 89–90
Bread, 99–100
Custard, 70
Dipping, 45
Garlic, 95–96
Gribiche, 20–21
Hollandaise, 183–84, 196
Madeira, 223–25
Mustard, 171–72
Old-Fashioned Egg, 6–7
Ravigote, 19–20
Rouille, 175
Saffron Cream Dressing, 176
to Serve with Boiled Ham, 156
Tartar, 209–10
Verte, 182–83
Vièrge, 131–32
Scallop(s), 185–89
and Artichoke Soup, 188–89
Bercy, 187–88
Sauté Provençal, 187
Sesame, Grilled Eggplant with, 79–80
Shallots:
Braised Rabbit with White Wine, Rosemary, Cream and, 169
Grilled Squab with Sherry Vinegar, Walnut Oil and, 199–200
Sauté of Veal Kidneys with Sage, Beurre Noisette and, 110–11
Shepherd, Richard, 194
Silverton, Nancy, 37
Smoked Haddock, 190–93
Baked with Potatoes and Cream, 191
Omelette Arnold Bennett, 191–92
Soup, Curried, 192–93
Snail Butter, 96
Sorrel:
and Garlic Soup with Parmesan Croûtons, 96–97
Gratin of Brains with, 18
Soups:
Asparagus, 13
Cèpe and Potato Broth, 25
Chilled Pimiento, with Basil, 153
Cilantro and Coconut, 45–46
Curried Smoked Haddock, 192–93
Garlic and Sorrel, with Parmesan Croûtons, 96–97
Gazpacho, 152–53
Grouse, 101
Onion, 137–38
Pappa al Pomodoro, 214
Parsley, 146–47
Potato, Tomato, and Basil, 165–66
Saffron, with Mussels, 176–77
Scallop and Artichoke, 188–89
Spinach, 194–97
Cold, with Crème Fraîche, Garlic, and Black Pepper, 197
Dumplings, 196–97
Eggs Florentine, 84–85
Mousse with Anchovy Hollandaise, 196
Spry, Constance, 105
Squab, 198–200
Grilled, with Shallots, Sherry Vinegar, and Walnut Oil, 199–200
Roast, with Braised Lettuce, Peas, and Bacon, 199
Steak, 201–5
Meat Glaze, 204–5
au Poivre, 203
Stein, Ricky, 54
Strawberry Pots de Crème, Francis Coulson’s, 61
Sweetbreads, 206–11
Blanquette of Lamb’s, 210–11
Breadcrumbed Veal, with Tartar Sauce, 209–10
Ris de Veau aux Morilles, 208–9
Tarts:
Anchovy and Onion, 8–10
Cèpe, 24
Chocolate, 36
Crab, 57
Leek, 121–22
Onion, 136–37
Red Pepper, 151–52
Tomato and Pesto, 213–14
Taruschio, Franco, 23, 148
Tomato(es), 212–14
Ceviche of Salmon, 184
Crab Tart, 57
Creamed, on Toast, 213
Eggplant Baked with Herbs and Cream, 77–78
Gazpacho, 152–53
Pappa al Pomodoro, 214
and Pesto Tarts, 213–14
Pimiento Salsa, 149–50
Piperade, 82
Potato, and Basil Soup, 165–66
Salade Niçoise, 7–8
Salsa, 43–44
Sauce Vièrge, 131–32
Scallops Sauté Provençal, 187
Spiced Eggplant Salad, 76–77
Tower, Jeremiah, 5
Montpellier Butter, 6
Tripe(s), 215–19
Deep-Fried, with Green Paste, 218–19
à la Lyonnaise, 217
Madrid-Style (Callos a la Madrilena), 217–18
Vanilla Ice Cream, 65
Veal, 220–25
Roast Shin of, 222
Salted Calves’ Tongue with Madeira Sauce, 223–25
Saltimbocca alla Romana, 222–23
Veal Sweetbreads:
Breadcrumbed, with Tartar Sauce, 209–10
Ris de Veau aux Morilles, 208–9
Vinaigrette, 132
Crab, with Herbs, 56
Leeks, 121
Rowley’s, of Red Peppers and Anchovy, 151
Waters, Alice, 93, 156