It’s fine to whirl together some tofu and onion soup mix and serve it with potato chips as an appetizer or snack. But why not explore the world of possibilities for beginning a meal? Fancy restaurants serve a very small dish at the start of a meal called an amuse bouche, or amuse the mouth. This small bite whets the appetite for the feast to come. As you begin to choose your food more consciously, you will grow to treasure the little gems proffered before a main meal. In the Middle East, many small dishes, or mezze, are presented as gifts to guests, demonstrating the generosity of the host. Often these are the meal.

Once you remove meat from the center of the plate and allow yourself to conceive of an “entrée” as a vegetable-based creation, the whole notion of appetizer becomes fuzzy. You could serve most of these dishes in larger portions as the centerpiece of a meal, or you could conceive an entire meal around a number of small dishes—even moving from cuisine to cuisine, should you choose.

DIPS & SPREADS

Tuscan White Bean Spread

This recipe benefits from a very fruity olive oil. If fat content is not a concern, you may want to add an extra couple of tablespoons for a fuller flavor. I also like to add some raw garlic to this for a little extra bite. You may want to add a little of your favorite hot sauce, too.

For an easy but elegant appetizer, spread this on some good Italian bread and top with some roasted red peppers, fresh tomato slices, or grilled portobellos. Use fresh sage leaves as a garnish.

2 cups cooked white beans (Great Northern or cannellini)

1 teaspoon oil

2 small onions, thinly sliced

4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage

Sea salt

Purée the beans in a food processor. Put the oil in a saucepan over high heat. Add the onions and garlic, and stir constantly until the onions develop a light, golden brown color. To the puréed beans in the food processor, add the cooked onions and garlic, lemon juice, and olive oil. Purée all the ingredients. Add sage and sea salt to taste. Adjust the seasonings. Adjust the thickness with water.

Makes about 2 cups.

Black Bean Dip

Chipotles are dried, smoked jalapeños that add a hot, smoky dimension, complementing the deep, earthy flavors of the black beans. If you prefer a milder flavor, the recipe works well without them, too.

2 cups cooked black beans

1 teaspoon oil

¼ teaspoon cumin seeds

1 small onion, diced

1 or 2 cloves garlic, minced

¼ teaspoon chili powder

½ chipotle chili, canned or dried, or ¼ teaspoon chipotle powder

2 tablespoons lime juice

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Sea salt

Mash or purée the beans in a food processor. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds, onion, and garlic, and cook until the onion just begins to soften. Add the chili powder and mix well. Cook just until the onion is soft. Add the mixture to the beans along with the chipotle, lime juice, and cilantro. For a smoother dip, purée the mixture. Add sea salt to taste and adjust the seasonings. Adjust the thickness with water.

Makes about 2 cups.

Refried Bean Dip

2 cups cooked pinto beans

2 teaspoons oil

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 medium onion, diced

1 jalapeño, fresh or canned, minced

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon chili powder

½ medium red bell pepper, diced

1 medium green bell pepper, diced

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Mash the beans either in a food processor, with a potato masher, or with the back of a wooden spoon. Reserve. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Sauté the garlic, onion, and fresh jalapeño just until the onion begins to soften. Add the cumin, coriander, and chili powder. Sauté until the spices are fragrant and the onion is soft. Add the peppers to the pan and stir until they are coated with the spices. When the peppers are hot, reduce the heat to low, add the beans to the pan, and mix well. Add the lemon juice and adjust the consistency with water. Cook until the beans are hot. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes about 2 cups.

Curried Lentil Dip

2 teaspoons oil

1 small onion, diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon curry powder

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground coriander

teaspoon dried mustard or ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper

teaspoon white pepper

2 cups cooked yellow or red lentils

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons tahini

Sea salt

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, and ginger. Cook just until the onion begins to soften. Add the spices and cook at least 3 minutes or until the spices begin to release their fragrance. Remove from heat. Add the lentils to the pan and mix thoroughly. If the lentils are cold, warm them slightly. Mash the lentils with a potato masher or pulse in a food processor until coarsely mashed. Stir in the lemon juice and tahini. Taste and season with sea salt.

Makes about 2½ cups.

Guacamole

There are endless variations on guacamole. I prefer the simple approach to allow the flavor of the avocado to shine through. However, some chopped fresh tomatoes do add a nice touch. If you want to stretch the guacamole, add some soy mayonnaise.

4 ripe avocados

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 cloves garlic, minced

½ small onion or 4 green onions, thinly sliced

1 small jalapeño, fresh or canned, minced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

Sea salt

Mash the avocados against the side of a small mixing bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients. Taste, add salt, and adjust the seasonings.

Makes about 2½ cups.

Skordalia

Garlic and potatoes—two of the most versatile foods—are combined to make a pungent sauce good with raw vegetables or toasted pita triangles. For those who enjoyed mashed potato sandwiches as a kid, it can also be used as a base for a sandwich, with some thinly sliced red onion and grilled vegetables.

2 cups mashed potatoes

1 tablespoon minced garlic

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar or lemon juice

Salt and pepper

Mix all the ingredients in a medium mixing bowl. Taste the mixture and adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper.

Makes 2½ cups.

Caponata

I wish more people loved eggplant as much as Sicilians do! Perhaps this recipe will help convert a few more. Although traditionally green olives are used, I prefer kalamatas. If you can’t get good fresh tomatoes, use diced canned tomatoes.

1 pound eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes

4 to 6 teaspoons oil

2 stalks celery, cut on the diagonal into ½-inch pieces

1 medium onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic, chopped

½ cup red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

1½ cups seeded, diced tomatoes

1 tablespoon capers

2 tablespoons pitted, slivered kalamata olives

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon pine nuts, lightly toasted

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley (optional)

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh basil (optional)

Salt

Generously salt the eggplant cubes and place them in a colander. Allow the eggplant to drain for 30 minutes. The eggplant should have released a fair amount of light brown liquid. Rinse the eggplant briefly under cold water and pat dry.

Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the celery, onion, and garlic and sauté until the onion is just softened. Remove the onions and celery from the pan and reserve in a large mixing bowl. Heat 2 more teaspoons of the oil in the pan over medium-high heat. Add the eggplant cubes in a single layer and cook until they are lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Cook the eggplant in batches if necessary. If you overcrowd the pan, the eggplant will not cook evenly. Add the eggplant to the bowl with the onions and celery.

Add the vinegar and sugar to the sauté pan, bring to a boil, and reduce the mixture by half. Pour the vinegar mixture over the eggplant mixture and toss until the vegetables are coated. Let the mixture cool slightly. When the mixture is still warm, add the remaining ingredients. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt. Let the caponata stand for at least 30 minutes or overnight (refrigerate if letting stand more than 30 minutes). Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Makes 4 to 5 cups.

Baba Ganoush

A vegetarian classic, baba ganoush is a good vehicle for introducing the glorious eggplant into your diet. Serve this with warm pita triangles (for Whole Wheat Pita Bread, see page 271).

2 medium eggplants, about 3 pounds

Oil

¼ cup tahini

1 teaspoon minced garlic

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

Salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 400°. Prick the skins of the eggplants with a fork. Lightly oil the eggplants and place them on a baking sheet. Roast the eggplants in the oven until they look withered and the flesh is soft, about 30 to 45 minutes. Remove the eggplants from the oven and let them cool.

When the eggplants are cool enough to handle, remove the pulp from the skins. Squeeze the pulp gently to remove excess water. Chop the pulp very fine. Combine with the remaining ingredients in a medium mixing bowl. Taste the mixture and adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper.

Makes 3 cups.

Artichoke Dip

This dip can be eaten cold or hot. You can easily extend it by adding ½ cup of cooked spinach or 8 ounces of chopped tofu.

½ cup sliced almonds

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 14-ounce can artichoke hearts, drained

1 small onion, diced

cup soy mayonnaise

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons snipped fresh dill

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

Pinch white pepper

Sea salt

In the bowl of a food processor, coarsely chop the almonds. Add the garlic and pulse a few more times until well blended. Gently squeeze any excess water from the artichoke hearts. Add the artichoke hearts to the almond mixture and pulse until coarsely chopped. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Taste and season with sea salt.

Alternatively, chop the almonds with a chef’s knife. Gently squeeze any excess water from the artichoke hearts and chop them fine. In a mixing bowl, mix the almonds, artichoke hearts, and remaining ingredients. Taste and season with sea salt.

Makes about 2½ cups.

PÂTÉS AND TERRINES

Roasted Vegetable Terrine

Plan ahead to dazzle your guests with the jeweled layers of this special treat. The techniques used in this recipe are basic, but the result is stunning. The leeks provide a frame for the lines of color. Substitute seasonal vegetables as you like: asparagus, sorrel, sweet onions, or sugar snap peas in spring; eggplant, portobellos, or red peppers in summer; cauliflower, fennel, or celery root in fall. In winter, thin slices of sweet potatoes, white potatoes, rutabagas, and beets can be layered in a pan, seasoned as the terrine, baked slowly, and pressed to make a beautiful side dish.

2 or 3 medium leeks, green and white parts

2 teaspoons salt, divided

1 pound young green beans or asparagus, trimmed

2 medium zucchini

2 medium yellow squash

½ cup seasoned oil, approximately

½ pound shiitake mushrooms

Salt and pepper

¼ cup chopped garlic chives or green onions

¼ cup chopped fresh tarragon

1 cup roasted red peppers

Tomato-Tarragon Dressing (page 115) or Roasted Red Pepper Coulis (page 131)

Tarragon leaves or garlic chives for garnish

Preheat the oven to 375°. Trim any browned or dried leaves from the leeks. Cut the leeks into halves lengthwise, leaving the roots attached. Wash the leeks well under running water, being careful to remove any sand between the leaves.

Carefully put the leeks into a Dutch oven or a soup pot, curling the leeks around the edges. Add enough cold water to the pot to cover the leeks by 2 inches. Add 1 teaspoon of salt to the water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer the leeks until tender, about 6 minutes. Drain the leeks and cool under gently running cold water. When the leeks are cool enough to handle, remove the root end and separate the leaves. Reserve.

In the same pot, bring two quarts of water with 1 teaspoon of salt to boil. Add the green beans or asparagus to the water and blanch them for 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or a pair of tongs, remove the beans or asparagus from the pot and cool under gently running cold water. Reserve.

Cut the zucchini and yellow squash lengthwise into ¾-inch strips. Brush the squash strips with seasoned oil. Lightly salt and pepper the squash as desired. Place in a single layer on either a baking sheet covered with parchment paper, a nonstick baking sheet, or a baking sheet sprayed with nonstick cooking spray. Roast the vegetables for 10 minutes. Carefully turn the vegetables and roast for 5 minutes longer or just until tender.

While the squash are roasting, remove the stems from the shiitakes. Brush any dirt from the mushrooms, but do not rinse the mushrooms with water. In a medium bowl, toss the mushroom caps with ¼ cup of seasoned oil and salt and pepper to taste. Place the mushroom caps, gill side up and in a single layer, on either a baking sheet covered with parchment paper, a nonstick baking sheet, or a baking sheet sprayed with nonstick cooking spray. Roast the mushrooms for 10 to 15 minutes or until they are tender. Drain in a colander placed over a bowl. (Save any liquid in the bowl for making stock, if you wish.) Reduce the oven temperature to 325°.

Oil a 9x5-inch loaf pan. Line with parchment paper or waxed paper. Using the longest leek leaves, lay them widthwise in the loaf pan, making sure to line the bottom of the pan evenly and leaving a 2-to-3-inch overhang on each side. You should have a single layer of leek leaves covering the width of the pan. Beginning in the middle of the pan, lay leek leaves lengthwise to cover the ends of the pan, leaving a 2-to-3-inch overhang. Repeat until you have two layers of leeks completely covering the ends. If you have extra, add another layer of leeks to the width of the pan.

Combine the garlic chives and tarragon in a small bowl. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the herb mixture over the leeks. Layer half of the shiitakes in the bottom of the loaf pan. Top with half the zucchini, then half the yellow squash, then half the red peppers. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the herb mixture over the red peppers. Layer on all of the green beans or asparagus. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the herb mixture. Layer the remaining vegetables: peppers, yellow squash, zucchini, and shiitakes. Sprinkle the shiitakes with the remaining tablespoon of herb mixture. Fold the overhanging leeks over the terrine to cover.

Cover the terrine with parchment paper or waxed paper, then with aluminum foil. Place the loaf pan in a larger roasting pan. Place the pans in the oven and pour enough hot water into the bottom pan to come 1 to 2 inches up the sides of the loaf pan. Bake for 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool, covered.

When the terrine is cool, keeping the covers on, place another loaf pan on top of it. Stack jam jars, cans, potatoes, or bricks in the top loaf pan to weight it. Place the terrine in a small baking dish to catch any liquid. Refrigerate, covered, for 12 hours or more. Liquid will accumulate on the top of the terrine. To prevent a mess in your refrigerator, keep the terrine in a baking dish to catch any overflow. Drain any liquid from the terrine as it accumulates.

Remove the foil and waxed paper. Invert the terrine onto a cutting board or flat platter to unmold it. Using a sharp knife, carefully cut the terrine into 8 slices. To serve, place 2 tablespoons of Tomato-Tarragon Vinaigrette or Roasted Red Pepper Coulis on each plate. Place the terrine in the center of the plate and garnish with whole tarragon leaves or garlic chives.

Makes 8 servings.

Vegan Chopped Liver

If you are concerned with fat content, reduce the oil to 1 teaspoon and omit the olive oil. Be careful not to over-process this dish. The slightly coarse texture is pleasing—better than that of the original chopped liver!

2 tespoons oil

1 medium onion, sliced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup sliced button mushrooms

½ teaspoon dried basil

teaspoon dried marjoram

½ teaspoon sea salt

¼ teaspoon white pepper

½ cup dry red wine

½ cup walnut pieces

2 cups green beans, cooked until just soft

¼ cup minced fresh parsley

8 ounces tofu

½ cup matzoh meal or breadcrumbs

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, or 1 tablespoon flaxseed oil and

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. When the oil begins to smoke, add the onion and garlic. Cook, stirring every minute or two, until the onion is a deep golden brown. Add the mushrooms, basil, marjoram, salt, and pepper. Cook until the mushrooms have released their liquid. Continue cooking until the mixture is dry. Add the wine to the hot pan and cook until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the walnuts and cook until the mixture is dry. Remove the pan from the heat.

Coarsely chop the green beans and parsley in a food processor. Add the mushroom mixture and process until well blended but still coarsely chopped. Crumble the tofu into the mixing bowl. Add the matzoh meal, olive oil, and lemon juice. Pulse until all the ingredients are well mixed and the texture is slightly coarse. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Makes 4 cups.

PANCAKE-LIKE APPETIZERS

Tostones

If you are not accustomed to working with plantains, you should know that there are no bad plantains. (Okay, the moldy ones are probably too far gone.) When they are green and somewhat hard, they can be fried as tostones (fritters) or plaintain chips, or baked and mashed like potatoes. Just about anything that you might want to do with a potato can be done with a plantain. When the skin turns to yellow-brown, they can be sautéed and served as a side dish that combines a fruity sweetness with the starchiness of a potato. When they are black, plantains make some marvelous desserts. Look for them in the produce section with Latin American items.

4 plantains, yellow-green and somewhat hard

Oil for frying

Sea salt

Chipotle Ketchup (page 121), Pico de Gallo (page 137), or prepared salsa

To peel the plantains, remove the top and bottom with a sharp paring knife. Cut long slits down the plantain just deep enough to go through the peel. You may prefer to cut the plantain into halves or thirds before trying to peel it.

Heat ½ inch of oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat. (If you have a thermometer or are using a fryer, adjust to 350°.) Cut the plantains into 1-inch slices. Fry the plantains in a single layer, turning once, for about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Remove the plantains to a paper towel and drain.

Flatten the plantain slices using the flat side of a meat mallet (what are you going to do with it now, anyway?) or a small, heavy pan. The flattened slices should be about ½ inch thick. If the plantains crumble when flattening, they are not cooked enough and should be refried, roasted, or microwaved until they become a little softer.

Return the slices to the skillet or fryer, and fry until golden brown and crispy. Season with sea salt. Reserve in a warm oven or serve immediately with Chipotle Ketchup, Pico de Gallo, or prepared salsa.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Sweet Potato Falafel

This is a quick and easy recipe using falafel mix, which you can find in the health food section of most grocery stores. The sweetness of the sweet potato begs for a hot, spicy foil, such as Chipotle Salsa, Harissa Dipping Sauce, or Meshwiya.

1 cup falafel mix

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon ancho chili powder

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 cup mashed sweet potatoes

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons oil

Chipotle Salsa (page 137), Harissa Dipping Sauce (page 139),

or Meshwiya (page 139)

Pour 1 cup of boiling water over the falafel mix in a medium bowl. Cover and let stand for 15 minutes or until all the water is absorbed and the ground chickpeas in the mix are relatively soft. Add the cilantro, chili powder, cumin, cayenne, and lemon juice to the falafel mix and mix well. Add the sweet potatoes. Taste the mixture and adjust seasonings with salt and pepper.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a wide, heavy skillet or nonstick pan over medium-high heat. Drop the falafel mix by heaping tablespoons into the pan. Flatten the falafel with a metal spatula to ensure even cooking. These are more delicate than regular falafel, so do not crowd them in the pan or they will be difficult to turn. Cook the patties on one side until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Turn the patties with a metal spatula and cook the other side for 3 more minutes. Repeat with remaining oil and falafel mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, reserve in a warm oven, or refrigerate and reheat later. Serve with Chipotle Salsa, Harissa Dipping Sauce, or Meshwiya.

Makes 24 patties.

Caponata (page 46), Tuscan White Bean Spread (page 43).

Tofu Boursin (page 154), Tofu Boursin Lavosh (page 154).

Sun-Dried Tomato and Lentil Burgers (page 155), Macaroni and Cheeze (page 193).

Next page, clockwise from top: Corn Chowder (page 81), Spicy Sweet Potato Soup (page 73), Vegetable Soup with Lemon and Dill (page 79).

Spinach and Mushroom Quesadillas

Quesadillas without queso? (That’s Spanish for cheese.) While you can substitute vegan cheese for cow’s milk cheese, why not try using one of the delicious bean dips given on pages 43–44 to hold the ingredients together inside the tortilla?

Quesadillas lend themselves to many variations—usually depending on what’s left over in the fridge. Have fun with them! Served with a bowl of black bean soup, these can make a very hearty meal.

4 teaspoons oil

1 pound spinach, washed, brown or wilted leaves discarded

2 teaspoons minced garlic

Pinch salt

1 medium onion, sliced or diced

8 ounces mushrooms, sliced

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon Black Bean Dip (page 44) or refried beans

6 10-inch flour tortillas (choose those made without lard)

Pico de Gallo (page 137), or prepared red or green salsa

Heat 1 teaspoon of the oil in a wide (11 or 12 inch), heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add spinach and 1 teaspoon of the garlic. Season with a pinch of salt. Cook until the spinach wilts. Remove the spinach to a colander and reserve.

Heat another teaspoon of oil in the pan, and add the remaining 1 teaspoon of garlic, onion, mushrooms, and salt. Sauté the vegetables until the mushrooms release their liquid, and then cook the mixture until it is dry.

Squeeze the spinach dry and combine with the mushroom mixture. Sauté for another minute to ensure that the mixture is dry. Place the vegetable mixture in the colander.

Wipe the skillet clean and heat 1 teaspoon of oil until it is quite hot. Soften each tortilla by heating it in the skillet for about 10 to 15 seconds on each side. Remove the skillet from the heat while you assemble the quesadillas.

Spread 1½ tablespoons of Black Bean Dip or refried beans on each tortilla. Place 1.6 of the vegetable mixture on half of the tortilla. Fold the tortilla in half so you have a half moon shape. Repeat until all the tortillas are filled.

Return the skillet to high heat. Heat 1 teaspoon of oil in the skillet. Lightly brown each quesadilla on both sides. Reserve in a warm oven or cut each quesadilla into 3 wedges and serve immediately with Pico de Gallo or prepared green or red salsa.

Makes 6 servings.

Panelle (Italian Chickpea Patties)

1 cup chickpea flour (also called gram flour)

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Oil for frying

Salsa Cruda (page 138),

Caponata (page 46), Roasted Red Pepper Coulis (page 131), or Aioli (page 120)

In a medium saucepan, whisk 3 cups of cold water into the chickpea flour and salt, making sure that no lumps form. Place the pan over medium-high heat and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to medium-low and continue cooking the mixture until it pulls away from the sides of the pan, about 30 minutes. Stir in the parsley.

Spread the mixture in a greased jellyroll pan so you have an even layer about ½ to ¾ inch thick. This will not fill the entire pan. Allow the mixture to cool completely. Cut into 8 squares and then cut each square into 2 triangles.

Heat the oil in a wide saucepan. You can use a minimum of oil or ½ inch of oil. The more oil you use, the crisper the panelle will be. Over medium-high heat, fry the panelle in a single layer until they are golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Repeat until all the panelle are fried. Serve immediately or reserve in a warm oven. Serve with Salsa Cruda, Caponata, Roasted Red Pepper Coulis, or Aioli.

Makes 5 servings.

Spicy Corn Blini with
Red Peppers and Shiitakes

The heat in the blini is balanced by the sweetness of the red peppers. You could serve these little pancakes with Sweet Onion Caviar (page 229).

½ cup fine cornmeal

½ cup flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon ancho chili powder

teaspoon cayenne

Pinch ground cumin

¼ teaspoon sea salt

¼ cup corn, fresh or frozen (not canned)

1 tablespoon oil

½ cup soymilk

1¼ teaspoons rice wine vinegar or cider vinegar

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

2 tablespoons sliced green onions

4 ounces shiitake mushrooms

1 large red pepper, washed, seeds and pith removed

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon julienned fresh basil

Sift the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, chili powder, cayenne, cumin, and salt together in a medium bowl. Coarsely chop the corn with a knife or in a food processor. In a small bowl, beat together the corn, oil, soymilk, vinegar, and 2 tablespoons of water. Combine the wet and dry ingredients and mix well. Stir in the parsley and green onions.

Choose a skillet that is good for making pancakes. Heat the skillet over medium heat and add ½ teaspoon of oil. Tilt the skillet to evenly distribute the oil. Drop the blini batter by scant tablespoons into the hot skillet. Cook the blini until small bubbles appear around the outer edge on the top, about 1 to 2 minutes. Flip the blini and cook on the other side until the blini has puffed up and the second side is golden brown, about 1 minute. Remove the blini from the pan and reserve on a platter. Cover with a clean kitchen towel if you will use immediately, or reheat later in a warm oven.

Slice the shiitakes as thinly as you can. Cut the red pepper into very thin strips. Heat another teaspoon of oil in the skillet. Add the garlic and shiitakes. Sauté the mixture until the mushrooms begin to release their liquid, about 4 minutes. Add the peppers to the pan and cook until the mixture is mostly dry. Do not overcook or the peppers will begin to fall apart. Stir in the basil.

To serve, place a small amount of the mushroom mixture on top of each warm blini. Serve immediately.

Makes 18 to 24 blini.

FILLED APPETIZERS

Phyllo Triangles with
a Choice of Fillings

Greek cuisine is a natural source for vegan dishes because during the Lenten season, the eating of animal products is prohibited. The following recipe includes two filling variations. The basic technique of making triangles can be used for any reasonably dry filling. A soggy filling will result in flimsy phyllo.

1 pound phyllo leaves

About 1 cup fruity olive oil

Spiced Seitan Filling, or Artichoke and Spinach Filling (recipes follow)

Thaw the phyllo for 8 hours or more in the refrigerator.

Preheat the oven to 375°. Clean your work surface and dry thoroughly. Any residual moisture will make the phyllo stick. Pour the oil into a bowl and have handy a 2-inch pastry brush. Have the baking sheet(s) at hand. You will need to work quickly so the phyllo does not dry out and become brittle.

Unroll or unfold the phyllo leaves. Carefully remove one sheet and place it on the work surface. Cover the remaining phyllo with plastic wrap. (Some books recommend a damp kitchen towel, but this can make the leaves soggy and the towel tends to dry out in the course of making the triangles.) Brush the phyllo lightly with oil. You do not want to soak the phyllo. It is not necessary that every inch of phyllo be covered. Cover the first sheet with a second and brush it with oil.

Cut the phyllo leaves into thirds lengthwise. Put 1 teaspoon of filling 1 inch from the end of the strip. Lift one corner near the filling and fold it over the filling so that the other corner has come to a point. Continue folding the pastry over, flag-style, keeping the edges even. You should now have a cute little triangle.

Place the triangles seam-side down on an ungreased baking sheet. Brush the tops lightly with oil. Place the triangles about 1 inch apart (in case they split while cooking). Bake the triangles for 20 minutes or until they are golden brown.

Makes 36 triangles.

Spiced Seitan Filling

1 pound prepared seitan

1 teaspoon oil

1 minced shallot

¼ cup red wine

½ cup currants or coarsely chopped raisins

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

Pinch of black pepper

Sea salt to taste

1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water

2 tablespoons pine nuts

Coarsely chop the seitan. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook for 1 to 2 minutes or just until it begins to soften. Add the seitan and warm through. Add the wine, currants, and spices. Cook until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the cornstarch and cook until thickened. Stir in the pine nuts. Cool.

Makes enough for 36 triangles.

Artichoke and Spinach Filling

1 pound fresh spinach or 1 10-ounce package frozen spinach

1 teaspoon oil

1 medium red onion, diced

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 cup canned artichoke hearts, well-drained and coarsely chopped

Zest of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

½ to 1 cup breadcrumbs

Sea salt and pepper

If you are using frozen spinach, thaw it completely. Squeeze as much water out of it as you can with your hands. Put it into a clean, sturdy kitchen towel (not terry cloth) and twist it until all the water has come out.

Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and the garlic. Sauté the mixture for 3 or 4 minutes or until the onion begins to soften. Add the spinach and cook just until it is wilted. Remove from the heat. Drain any liquid that has accumulated in the pan. Add the artichoke hearts, lemon zest, dill, and breadcrumbs, using only ½ cup of breadcrumbs to start. If the mixture still seems wet, add more breadcrumbs. Taste the mixture and season with salt and pepper.

Makes enough for 36 triangles.

Vegan Chilies Rellenos

This is a low-fat version of a perennial favorite. For a more traditional version, you can stuff the peppers with vegan cheese, dredge them in flour, then soymilk, then flour, and fry them in oil.

18 jalapeño peppers or 6 poblano peppers

½ cup slivered almonds

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon nutritional yeast

¾ cup mashed potatoes

Salt and pepper

Oil

Mild Tomato Sauce (page 185), Pico de Gallo (page 137),or prepared salsa

Preheat the oven to 350°. Cut a slit down the side of each pepper. Cook the peppers in a pot of boiling salted water for 3 to 6 minutes or just until they are tender. Drain and cool under gently running water. Cut a slit down the length of each pepper. Wearing gloves, cut or scrape the seeds and pith from the peppers.

Grind the almonds in a food processor or spice mill, or cut them very fine with a knife. Mix the garlic, yeast, and potatoes with the almonds. Season with salt and pepper.

Fill each pepper with the mixture. Place the peppers in an oiled glass baking dish. Brush the tops of the peppers lightly with oil. Bake the peppers for 25 minutes or until the filling is bubbly. Serve with Mild Tomato Sauce, Pico de Gallo, or prepared salsa.

Makes 6 servings.

Fresh Spring Rolls

If you know how to roll a burrito, you can make spring rolls. This version uses a delicate rice paper wrapper which can be served fresh or fried.

Unless you really like working with your knife, a Japanese mandoline or food processor with a variety of discs comes in handy here. You can use a good box grater if you are careful.

1 ounce mung bean threads (glass noodles)

1 teaspoon sesame oil

2 ounces shiitake mushrooms (about 4 medium)

1 teaspoon canola oil

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

4 ounces inari, or dried or smoked tofu

3 green onions, thinly sliced

2 small carrots, shredded into long threads

2 tablespoons chopped Thai basil, or 1 tablespoon chopped sweet basil and

1 tablespoon chopped mint

1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

12 rice papers, 6 to 8 inches in diameter or square

Simple Soy Dipping Sauce (page 138), Sweet and Sour Dipping Sauce (page 138),

or Vietnamese Lime Dipping Sauce (page 139)

Put the bean threads into a small bowl. Cover with 3 cups of boiling water. Cover the bowl and let the noodles stand for about 15 minutes. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse under gently running cold water. Dry the bowl. Return the noodles to the bowl and season with the sesame oil.

Remove the stems from the shiitakes. Slice the mushroom caps as thinly as possible. Heat the canola oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, garlic, and ginger and sauté for 3 minutes. Cut the block of tofu so it is half as thick. Cut each piece into long, thin strips. Add the tofu to the shiitakes and cook for 1 minute more. Do not worry if the tofu breaks up a little. Remove from the heat. Add the green onions, carrots, basil, and sesame seeds to the mushroom mixture. Reserve.

Fill a large wide bowl with cold water. Dip 2 or 3 rice papers in the water for an instant. Lay the rice papers on your work surface. When they are pliable, place a line of the noodles in the lower third of the paper within an inch of the edge. Top the noodles with some of the mushroom mixture. Fold the bottom third of the paper over the filling and roll just enough to enclose the filling. Fold the two sides in over the bottom of the rice paper. Roll up the rice paper to form a tight cylinder. Moisten the last flap of the rice paper with water to seal the spring roll. Remove the finished rolls to a platter and cover with plastic wrap to keep them moist while you finish making the other spring rolls. Should the rice paper become brittle while working with it, brush it with some cold water and wait a minute for it to become pliable again. Serve with dipping sauce.

Makes 12 spring rolls.

Fried Spring Rolls: For each spring roll, use 2 wrapping papers instead of 1 (use a total of 24 wrapping papers). Fry in oil at 375° until golden.

BRUSCHETTA

Bruschetta with Sun-Dried Tomato
Pesto and Portobello Mushrooms

1 loaf good Italian-style bread

1 or 2 cloves garlic, peeled

2 tablespoons olive oil, preferably a fruity extra virgin

1 5-inch portobello cap or 2 3-inch portobello caps

Olive oil

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto (page 128)

12 basil leaves for garnish (optional)

Cut the bread at a 45° angle to make slices about ¾ inch thick. Cut 12 slices and reserve the rest of the bread. Slice one garlic clove in half lengthwise. Rub the garlic on the bread. Using your fingers or a pastry brush, rub a little olive oil on the bread also.

Heat a large flat-bottom sauté pan over medium-high heat. Lightly spray pan with nonstick cooking spray or coat with olive oil. Drain any excess oil from the pan. Place the bruschetta in the pan, putting in only as many as fit comfortably. Brown the bruschetta, first on the garlic side, then on the other. Repeat as necessary. (You can also toast the bread under a broiler, watching carefully. But preparing the bruschetta on the stovetop ensures a soft, creamy inside and thin crisp crust.) Reserve.

Brush the top of the portobellos lightly with olive oil. Very lightly brush the gills (or underside) of the mushrooms. Salt and pepper the mushrooms. In a sauté pan over medium-high heat, place the mushrooms, top down, in the pan. Occasionally shake the pan to ensure that the mushrooms aren’t burning. Allow the mushrooms to cook until water begins to collect in the gills. Turn and cook for 1 minute longer. Alternatively, broil or roast the seasoned mushrooms until they are cooked through. Remove from pan and place on a plate. When the mushrooms are cool enough to handle, cut into 12 very thin strips.

Spread ½ teaspoon of the pesto over the garlic side of the bruschetta. Lay a strip of portobello on each bruschetta. If possible, twist the strip. Not only will this give you a convenient place to anchor a basil leaf garnish, but it will also add visual interest to your presentation. Arrange attractively on a platter and serve.

Makes 12 bruschetta.