What is a sandwich but a meal you can hold in your hand? It has a starch, a protein, and vegetables or fruit. The best sandwiches have varied textures that complement each other to provide a well-rounded, pleasant eating experience. But, of course, we don’t think of it that way when we are scrambling to pack a lunch for the office or scraping the last bit of peanut butter from the jar.

The rise of fast food has conditioned us to eat on the run. Commercials and billboards entice us to visit the drive-through window and gobble something down to satisfy our immediate craving. The convenience and familiarity of fast food are tempting, so we need alternatives that are easy and appealing. That is why most of the sandwiches in this section are designed to parallel familiar sandwich selections. And while they may require some forethought and a shift in how you stock your refrigerator, they are designed to fit into a busy daily routine.

Here are a few pointers for creating a great-tasting sandwich that’s also good for you:

• Experiment with breads. Good bread can turn an ordinary sandwich into a rapturous feast. Look for a combination of nutrition and flavor. Choose whole grains over refined grains. Select multigrain breads, which provide a variety of nutrients and fibers—and taste pretty darn good. Even traditional grocery stores often carry sprouted grain breads in the freezer section.

• Treat yourself to freshly baked bread, whether you make it yourself or buy it from a good bakery. A good bakery will make bread from scratch each day, and its bread will have very few preservatives or none at all. Ask at the counter. Be aware that many grocery-store bake shops use products that are either “par-baked,” which means bread goes into the oven just to heat and develop some color, or “proof and bake,” which means unrisen dough is allowed to rise and then baked. Some of these products contain stabilizers or preservatives that you may want to avoid. If you don’t see any flour on the tables in the back, chances are good that the shop is using pre-made products.

• Match the bread to the style of sandwich you are making. It will be hard to make a delicate tea sandwich with a rustic peasant rye or to make muffuletta with a flimsy white sandwich loaf.

• Turn leftovers into lunch by spreading them on or rolling them into flexible flatbreads like pitas or flavored tortillas.

• Keep wet sandwich fillings, such as those for Greek Salad Pita (page 151) or Mixed Vegetable Romesco Focaccia (page 153), separate from the bread until you are ready to eat.

• Try the bean spreads found in “Appetizers and Snacks” as the spread for your sandwich (Tuscan White Bean Spread, page 43; Black Bean Dip, page 44; Refried Bean Dip, page 44; Curried Lentil Dip, page 45).

• Be adventurous with your sprout selection. Alfalfa sprouts are great, but try sunflower sprouts for a big crunch, radish sprouts for a peppery bite, or sprouted lentils for a nutty accent.

COLD SANDWICHES

Tofu No-Egg Salad Pita

If the firm tofu that you generally buy tends to be wet, weight it for several hours or wring it out to remove the excess water (for directions, see page 244). A pinch of cayenne helps liven up this dish, especially if your mustard is lackluster. Using a fork gives a better texture than a food processor in this dish.

1 pound firm tofu

¼ teaspoon turmeric

2 teaspoons Dijon or grainy mustard

¼ cup soy mayonnaise

¼ cup chopped celery

2 green onions, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped red onion

1 small green bell pepper, finely diced

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley (optional)

2 6- to 8-inch whole wheat pitas (prepared or see page 271)

Shredded lettuce

1 tomato, sliced

1 cucumber, sliced

In a small mixing bowl, break the tofu into small chunks. Add the turmeric, mustard, and mayonnaise and mash the ingredients with a fork. Add the vegetables and parsley and stir gently until well mixed. Cut the pitas into halves. Carefully open the pockets. Divide the salad mixture evenly among the pita halves, stuffing it gently into the bread. Add lettuce, tomatoes, and cucumbers.

Makes 4 sandwiches.

Vegan Chilies Rellenos (page 58), Spinach and Mushroom Quesadillas (page 53), Tostones (page 51).

Orrechiette with Butternut Squash and Thyme (page 187).

Chilled Soba Noodles on Painted Plates (page 200).

Top plate: Sweet Potato Falafel (page 52), Harissa Dipping Sauce (page 139).

Bottom plate: Chickpea Kibbeh (page 171), Curried Couscous (page 196).

Hummus Sandwich

Hummus, once relegated to bohemian potlucks and Middle Eastern restaurants, has come into the mainstream in grocery stores. You can find hummus with roasted red peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, caramelized onions, black olives and basil, pesto, and so on. My preference is for straightforward hummus topped with other ingredients, which give the sandwich additional flavors and a variety of textures.

If you have the time, you can make your own fresh hummus, which may have more protein and nutrients than the store-bought kind. Chickpeas, often labeled garbanzo beans, are a nutritional powerhouse—high in protein, calcium, and iron. Hummus will thicken considerably when it stands for several hours. The flavors will also develop and meld nicely.

2 slices sourdough bread

¼ cup hummus, prepared or homemade (recipe follows)

4 to 6 ¼-inch cucumber slices

2 or 3 ½-inch tomato slices

¼ cup alfalfa sprouts

1 large lettuce leaf

Toast the bread, if desired. Spread the hummus evenly on both slices of bread. Layer the cucumbers, tomatoes, sprouts, and lettuce on one piece of hummus-laden bread. Top with the other piece of bread.

Makes 1 sandwich.

Hummus

To serve the hummus as a dip for an appetizer, dress it with a good fruity olive oil and some chopped fresh herbs and pair it with pita toasts or raw vegetables. (For Whole Wheat Pita Bread, see page 271.)

1 14-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

2 to 4 cloves garlic, minced

¼ teaspoon ground coriander

2 tablespoons lemon juice

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

¼ cup tahini

Sea salt

Purée the chickpeas in a food processor. Remove any tough skins that do not break down. Add the garlic, coriander, lemon juice, and oil and blend thoroughly. Add the tahini and pulse to blend. Adjust the texture with water. Taste and season with sea salt.

Makes about 2 cups.

Other Ideas for Hummus Sandwich Fillings

• Grilled or roasted portobello mushroom, caramelized onions, tomato, and arugula

• Sprinkle of ground cumin, toasted pumpkin seeds, cilantro, red bell pepper, tomato, and lettuce

• Marinated green beans, red bell pepper, thinly sliced red onion, and pine nuts

• Roasted red peppers, kalamata olives, radicchio, and fresh basil

• Avocado, thinly sliced red onion, radish sprouts, and tomato

• Capers, thinly sliced onion, black olives, tomato, and fresh oregano

TLT: Tempeh or Tofu, Lettuce,
and Tomato

It seems that when people make the transition to a plant-based diet, the meats they crave most are the fatty, highly seasoned, and salty ones—bacon, sausage, fast food hamburgers, and lunchmeats. Highly processed soy products exist that try to replicate these flavors, but I recommend using a smoked and spiced tofu or tempeh. These tend to have few, if any, preservatives and plenty of flavor. Some grocery stores are now keeping these tofu products in the produce department.

Toasting the bread for this sandwich gives you the crunchy texture associated with a BLT. Garnish with a good dill pickle and some Almost-Traditional Potato Salad (page 108) and you’ll feel like you are eating in your favorite greasy spoon without the grease.

2 slices mild-flavored whole wheat bread

Soy mayonnaise (optional) 1.

3 ounces (½ package) smoked tofu or tempeh

2 thick slices ripe tomato

1 large leaf iceberg, green leaf, or other lettuce

Toast the bread. Spread each slice generously with soy mayonnaise. Cut the tofu or tempeh into halves to give you two flat pieces. Cut these pieces into 1½-inch strips, if desired. Arrange the tofu on the mayonnaise, and top with the tomatoes, then the lettuce. Cover with the second piece of toast. Cut the sandwich into halves.

Makes 1 sandwich.

Muffuletta

The flavor of this native of New Orleans improves if it is prepared several hours in advance and allowed to stand in the refrigerator. It is imperative that the bread be spongy enough to absorb the juices from the olive relish and vegetables but sturdy enough not to fall apart. A rustic Tuscan loaf or focaccia works well if you can’t find a round country loaf. If you feel like baking, try the Big Fat Sandwich Loaf (page 262) or Focaccia (page 264).

Eggplants and portobello mushrooms are particularly good vegetables for this sandwich because they stand up to the assertive Olive Relish.

1 large round sandwich loaf (about 10 inches in diameter)

1 cup Olive Relish (page 123)

4 cups roasted or grilled vegetables

1 cup arugula leaves or other lettuce

Split the sandwich loaf in half horizontally. Spread each half with Olive Relish. Layer the vegetables on the bottom of the loaf. Top the vegetables with the arugula. Carefully place the top half of the bread on the sandwich. Replace any Olive Relish that falls out. Cover the sandwich for at least 15 minutes. Secure the top with toothpicks and cut the loaf into 6 wedges.

Makes 6 sandwiches.

Greek Salad Pita

I don’t know if Greeks are familiar with this salad, but I do know that it has become a standard in diners. Make or buy vegan feta if you like, but be forewarned that the texture of vegan feta just barely approximates that of milk-based feta. A couple of dolmades, or stuffed grape leaves, makes this a heartier meal. When buying dolmades, read the ingredients carefully to make sure the grape leaves are filled with just rice and spices.

1 8-inch whole wheat pita (prepared or see page 271)

1½ cups chopped romaine lettuce

6 thin slices red onion

6 or 8 slices cucumber, ¼ inch thick

4 cherry tomatoes, cut into halves

4 pepperoncini or several rings pickled banana peppers

1 red radish, thinly sliced

4 pitted kalamata olives, cut into quarters

4 marinated artichoke hearts

3 ounces vegan feta (optional)

2 or 3 tablespoons Italian Vinaigrette (page 111)

Cut the pita into halves. Carefully open the pocket. In a medium mixing bowl, toss the vegetables, cheese, and dressing together. Divide the salad mixture between the pita halves, stuffing it gently into the bread.

Makes 2 sandwiches.

Italian Chopped Vegetable Pita

½ cup cooked kidney beans or chickpeas

½ cup quartered fresh button mushrooms

¼ cup Italian Vinaigrette (page 111) or Balsamic Vinaigrette (page 111)

1 cup shredded romaine lettuce

1 small red bell pepper, finely diced

1 small green bell pepper, finely diced

½ cucumber, seeded and finely diced

1 medium tomato, seeded and finely diced

2 green onions, thinly sliced

1 stalk celery, very thinly sliced

3 ounces tofu mozzarella or smoked tofu

1 6- to 8-inch whole wheat pita (prepared or see page 271)

In a small bowl or container, toss the beans and mushrooms with the dressing. Cover and refrigerate for 8 or more hours. In a medium mixing bowl, toss the vegetables and tofu with the bean mixture. Cut the pita into halves. Carefully open the pocket. Divide the salad mixture evenly among the pita halves, stuffing it gently into the bread.

Makes 2 sandwiches.

Mixed Vegetable Romesco Focaccia

This is a fantastic way to handle an overabundance of one vegetable or use up odds and ends of vegetables from the fridge. Romesco, the rich Catalan roasted red pepper pesto, is traditionally used on grilled vegetables. Green beans, fennel, zucchini, caramelized onions, and eggplant work particularly well with the Romesco Sauce and make an especially toothsome sandwich. You can buy focaccia or use the recipe on page 264. If you don’t have focaccia, make sure to use a sturdy bread that will soak up some of the tasty sauce.

2 cups chopped grilled, roasted, or cooked vegetables

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

¾ cup Romesco Sauce (page 129)

1 6-inch round focaccia or an 8x4-inch piece focaccia (prepared or see page 264)

½ cup arugula, mesclun, or similar bitter lettuce

Drain any liquid from the vegetables. In a medium bowl, combine the vegetables, basil, and Romesco Sauce. Let the mixture stand for at least 15 minutes or overnight.

Cut the focaccia into halves, then split each half horizontally. Divide the vegetable mixture evenly among the two bottom pieces of focaccia. Top each with half of the arugula, then the remaining focaccia. The sandwiches can stand at room temperature until the chill is off the vegetables.

Makes 2 sandwiches.

Peanut Butter Variations

Growing up a few miles away from the spot where George Washington Carver first cultivated peanuts sealed my fate as a peanut butter lover. Peanut butter seems to inspire odd combinations. While I’ve never heard of anyone else who loves peanut butter and ketchup the way that I do, these sandwich fillings, standard and exotic, are commonly paired with peanut butter.

• Sliced bananas

• Sliced apples

• Grated carrots

• Wheat germ

• Pineapple

• Dates

• Raisins • Sunflower

• Sunflower seeds

• Celery

• Radish slices

• Bread-and-butter or dill pickles

If the fat content of peanut butter concerns you, try puréeing 6 ounces of silken tofu and adding 2 tablespoons of peanut butter. Use this spread as-is or mix in your favorite peanut butter toppings to make a one-step spread.

Tofu Boursin Lavosh

Lavosh is a large, flexible, flat Armenian bread. Soaking the vegetables in salt water makes them flexible so the lavosh is easier to roll. If you can’t find lavosh, use the large flour tortillas made for wraps.

1½ cups Tofu Boursin (recipe follows)

1 12-inch lavosh

½ English cucumber or 1 salad cucumber

2 medium carrots, peeled

1 medium zucchini

3 green onions, thinly sliced

4 small radishes, cut into paper-thin slices

Spread the tofu boursin evenly over the lavosh. If you are using a salad cucumber, peel it if the skin is tough and scoop out the seeds. Cut long, thin ribbons of cucumber, carrots, and zucchini. Soak the vegetables in salted water for 10 minutes. Drain and pat dry.

Layer the vegetables on the lavosh, alternating colors. It is not necessary that each vegetable cover the entire lavosh.

Roll the lavosh into a tight cylinder and wrap securely with plastic wrap. Cut into 3 pieces and serve immediately or refrigerate up to 4 hours.

Makes 3 sandwiches.

Tofu Boursin

If you add the fresh herbs to the food processor along with the cashews, the mixture will be an impressive, though perhaps not appetizing, green color.

Fresh herbs produce the best results, but if you need to use dried herbs in this recipe, place them in a small bowl, teacup, or custard cup and cover with a small amount of boiling water. Cover the bowl and let the herbs rehydrate. Drain the mixture before adding to the food processor.

1 cup cashews

4 cloves garlic, minced

½ teaspoon salt or 1 teaspoon white miso

teaspoon ground black pepper

1 pound medium tofu

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 teaspoons each chopped fresh tarragon, basil, and parsley

1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill

Put the cashews in a 2-cup measure. Cover with hot water and let the nuts soak for 1 hour. Drain and rinse the cashews. Cover with hot water and let the nuts soak for 6 or more hours. Drain and rinse the cashews. Combine the cashews, garlic, salt, and pepper in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until the cashews are pasty. Crumble the tofu into the processor and add the lemon juice. Pulse until the mixture is blended well. Add the herbs and pulse until mixed well. Taste and adjust the seasonings with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.

Makes 3 cups.

BURGERS

Any of these burgers can be formed into small patties and served as appetizers or as part of a mezze-style dinner. These from-scratch burgers are designed to stand on their own in a hearty bun with a simple garnish of fresh tomato and lettuce, though you may want to get adventurous with the condiments.

Sun-Dried Tomato and Lentil Burgers

No need to drag the food processor out for this one. Mashing the lentils by hand retains their texture better. Substitute some leftover brown rice or bulgur for half of the lentils, if you like. If the mixture is too wet to hold together, add some breadcrumbs.

2 cups cooked brown, red, or yellow lentils

1 tablespoon oil

1 small onion, finely diced

1 teaspoon minced garlic

¼ cup finely chopped walnuts

¼ cup oil-pack sun-dried tomatoes, coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage or teaspoon ground sage

½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or teaspoon dried thyme

teaspoon black pepper

In a medium mixing bowl, mash the lentils with a potato masher or a fork. Heat 1 teaspoon of the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion, garlic, and walnuts. Cook without stirring until the onion is browned. When the onion begins to color, reduce the heat to medium and cook until the onion is caramelized and the walnuts have begun to toast, about 4 minutes. Add the onion mixture to the lentils. Add the sun-dried tomatoes, herbs, and pepper to the lentils.

Form the lentil mixture into 4 patties. Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the patties until they are nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Turn and fry the other side, about 4 minutes.

Makes 4 patties.

Black Bean Burgers

Serve these with fresh mango slices and salsa.

2 cups cooked black beans

1 tablespoon oil

1 small onion, finely diced

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 red bell pepper, finely diced

1 jalapeño pepper, finely diced

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground coriander

½ chipotle pepper, dried or canned

½ cup fresh or thawed corn kernels

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

In a medium mixing bowl, mash the black beans with a potato masher or a fork. Heat 1 teaspoon of the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion, garlic, bell and jalapeño peppers, cumin, and coriander. Cook the vegetable mixture until the onion is soft. Add the vegetables to the black beans. Crumble the dried chipotle or mince the canned chipotle, add it to the bean mixture, and mix well. Stir in the corn and cilantro and mix well.

Form the bean mixture into 4 patties. Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the patties until they are nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Turn and fry the other side for about 4 minutes.

Makes 4 patties.

Portobello Mushroom Burgers

The easiest mushroom burger involves a grilled or roasted portobello cap on a bun. I like to top it with roasted red peppers and some pesto. This recipe yields a more substantial burger. A combination of mushrooms works here as well—creminis, shiitakes, portobellos, and buttons.

4 teaspoons oil

1 pound portobello mushrooms, coarsely chopped

1 medium red onion, finely diced

1 teaspoon minced garlic

½ teaspoon dried thyme

¼ teaspoon dried basil

teaspoon dried rubbed sage

1 tablespoon soy sauce, or 2 teaspoons soy sauce and 1 teaspoon mushroom soy sauce

¼ cup red wine (optional)

1½ cups cooked brown rice (preferably basmati) or 1½ cups cooked bulgur

¼ cup whole wheat or soy flour

In a wide skillet, heat 2 teaspoons of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms, onion, garlic, and herbs. Cook until the mushrooms release their liquid, then until all of the liquid is evaporated. Add the soy sauce and wine and cook the mixture until it is dry. Cool the mixture in a medium mixing bowl. The mushrooms will release more liquid as they cool. Do not drain.

When the mushrooms are cool enough to handle, add the rice and flour. Stir to mix the ingredients. If the mixture does not come together, use a potato masher or pulse briefly in a food processor.

Form the mixture into 8 patties. Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the patties until they are nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Turn and fry the other side for about 4 minutes.

Makes 8 patties.

Broccoli-Almond Patties

It seems impossible that these are so good! These can be enjoyed as a burger in a bun or an entrée with Roasted Red Pepper Coulis (page 131) or Mild Tomato Sauce (page 185). These are even good uncooked—just omit the wheat germ and the frying. Tahini, peanut butter, or cashew butter may be substituted for the almond butter.

2 cups chopped fresh broccoli florets and stems

½ cup sunflower sprouts, chopped fine

2 green onions, thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon minced garlic

½ cup almond butter

2 teaspoons kelp or salt-free Spike or Mrs. Dash

2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage or ½ teaspoon dried rubbed sage

1 teaspoon oil

½ cup wheat germ

In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the chopped broccoli, sprouts, green onions, and garlic until they are very finely chopped but have not begun to purée. (Alternatively, mix the broccoli, sprouts, onion, and garlic and put through a food grinder.) In a medium mixing bowl, combine the vegetable mixture with the almond butter, kelp, and sage. The mixture should hold together fairly well but not be too sticky or wet. Form into 4 patties.

Heat the oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat. Dredge the patties in the wheat germ, patting the wheat germ so it will adhere. Fry the patties briefly until they are crisp on each side. Do not cook too long or they will become soggy.

Makes 4 patties.

Dress Up Your Veggie Burger

Commercially available veggie burgers are a quick and easy way to break the meat habit without feeling deprived. But a steady diet of them may get tiresome. Here are some ideas to give a little oomph to your new convenience food.

• Caramelized onions dressed with Orange-Chipotle Barbecue Sauce (page 134)

• Avocado slices, grapefruit sections, and mango salsa

• Pineapple rings glazed with brown sugar and lemon, and Asian Coleslaw (page 107)

• Caponata (page 46)

• Wasabi, pickled ginger, and Bibb lettuce

• Roasted red peppers, arugula, and pesto

HOT SANDWICHES

Vegetable Barbecue

You can use a prepared barbecue sauce or the recipes on pages 133–135. If you omit the peanuts, the Asian Coleslaw recipe on page 107 will work here.

1 medium red onion, peeled

2 cloves garlic, peeled

1 large red or green bell pepper, ribs and seeds removed

2 large portobello caps

1 medium zucchini, trimmed

2 teaspoons oil

1 cup barbecue sauce

4 whole wheat sandwich rolls

1 cup coleslaw (optional)

Cut the onion into halves vertically, from root to stem. Cut ¼-inch slices from each half. Slice the garlic as thinly as possible. Cut the pepper into ½-inch strips. Slice the portobello caps into long strips, ¼ inch wide. Using a box grater, vegetable peeler, or knife, make long, ¼-inch-thick ribbons of the zucchini.

In a wide skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion and garlic. Allow the onion to brown without stirring. When the onion has begun to brown, about 3 or 4 minutes, add the peppers and the portobellos. Sauté for 2 minutes. Add the zucchini ribbons to the pan. When the zucchini just begins to wilt, add the barbecue sauce to the pan. Heat the mixture thoroughly. The zucchini should be just beyond the crisp-tender stage.

Divide the barbecue between the 4 buns. Top with coleslaw.

Makes 4 sandwiches.

Tempeh Reuben

4 ounces tempeh

½ cup sauerkraut

2 slices rye bread

1 tablespoon vegan Russian dressing (recipe below)

2 slices vegan Swiss cheese

1 tablespoon oil

Cut the tempeh into halves horizontally so you have two thin, flat pieces. In a wide skillet, heat 1 teaspoon of the oil over medium heat. When the pan is hot, add the sauerkraut. Stir until the sauerkraut is warmed through. Remove from the pan and reserve.

Wipe the pan clean and add another teaspoon of the oil. When the pan is hot, sauté the tempeh until it is a little crispy on each side, about 5 minutes. Remove from the pan. Spread half of the dressing on each slice of bread. Put the tempeh on the bread. Top the tempeh with the sauerkraut and then the cheese. Heat the last teaspoon of the oil in the pan and grill the sandwich until nicely browned on each side.

Makes 1 sandwich.

Russian Dressing

2 teaspoons soy mayonnaise

1 teaspoon ketchup

¼ teaspoon pickle relish

2 or 3 drops lemon juice

Combine all ingredients in a very small bowl and mix well.