teaspoon black pepper
Beans and grains have been cultivated for ten thousand years. They have been deified, sacrificed, and used as the cornerstone of both civilizations and cuisines. Rice or corn, chickpeas or pasta, soybeans or black beans are some of the fundamental distinctions among the world’s cuisines.
The recipes that follow will help you in using some provisions that may not be familiar to you, such as millet and bulgur, and give you some ideas on using old favorites such as lentils and hominy in new ways. And of course, many other recipes featuring beans and grains appear in other chapters throughout the book.
BEANS
Preparing Beans
A few simple steps can ensure safe, healthful, and tasty results.
Selecting: When buying beans, choose plump, smooth beans with bright colors. Avoid shriveled beans, which are old and have tough hulls. These give inconsistent results when cooked.
Rinsing: Prior to soaking or cooking, beans should always be rinsed under running water to remove dust and sorted to remove pebbles and damaged beans.
Soaking: Beans are full of complex sugars (oligosaccharides) that can cause flatulence. Fortunately, these hard-to-digest sugars are water soluble, meaning that soaking in water, especially boiling water, and discarding the water eliminate some or most of these sugars. (It is helpful to pair beans with onions and garlic, which are powerful carminatives, a polite way of saying that they help relieve gas. Particularly useful herbs with this property are sage, thyme, oregano, basil, fennel, parsley, cumin, cayenne, and cinnamon.) Note that lentils do not need to be soaked.
Quick soaking removes up to 90 percent of indigestible sugars, according to one study. Bring 2 cups of beans and 2 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Turn off the heat, cover the pot, and let the beans soak for at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours. Drain the beans and rinse thoroughly.
Long soaking is the more familiar technique, though it only removes about 20 percent of indigestible sugars. Soak the beans in a large amount of water for 8 to 12 hours. Drain the beans and rinse thoroughly.
Cooking: For plain beans, the ratio is 1 cup of beans to 4 cups of water. Combine them in a heavy pot and add a few bay leaves, sprigs of thyme, or oregano if you like. It is very important that you do not salt the water. Salt causes the hulls to toughen and can prevent the beans from cooking. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to medium, and simmer until the beans are soft. Check the pot several times during cooking and add water as needed. Cooking times vary with the variety and age of the beans. Black turtle, Great Northern, red, and pink beans all take about 1 to 1½ hours. Kidney, dried lima, navy, and pinto beans take 2 to 2½ hours. Soybeans, chickpeas, and adzuki beans need about 3 to 3½ hours of cooking time.
Sprouting Beans and Grains
The popularity of bean sprouts waxes and wanes. Since reports of food-borne illnesses caused by bacteria in packaged sprouts, home sprouting once again has taken on a certain cachet. Years ago our sprouting equipment consisted of Mason jars topped with scraps left over from repairing the screen door. Now health food stores sell jars with color-coded tops and special seeds with guaranteed germination profiles.
Low tech or high tech, sprouting gives you another way of enjoying this nutrient-packed fare. Beans and grains are, after all, seeds. As the seeds sprout, they become more digestible. Sprouts can be enjoyed raw or quickly sautéed.
The basic procedure is the same for all:
• Rinse ½ cup of seeds in a colander, discarding any broken or blemished seeds.
Put the seeds in a sterilized glass jar and cover with 4 inches of water.
• Soak the seeds for 12 to 24 hours, changing the water once.
• Drain the soak water from the seeds and discard the hulls, which will have risen to the top. Rinse the seeds 3 or 4 more times until the water runs clear.
• Set the jar at an angle in the dish drainer with the mouth down to allow the water to drain for 12 to 24 hours. Repeat the rinsing procedure once or twice a day until sprouts begin to appear. The seeds and sprouts should be kept out of direct sunlight and in an area that is not too cold.
• Set the jar in a sunny spot for several hours so the sprouts will turn green.
Lentils, chickpeas, black beans, mung beans, and wheat berries all produce sprouts in 3 to 4 days. Sunflowers and sesame seeds take only about 1 day. Alfalfa seeds take 3 to 6 days.
Black-eyed Peas
After migrating from China to Africa, black-eyed peas came to America with the slave trade. They made their home in soup pots all across the South and are essential eating on New Year’s Day—they bring luck, and the small carrot “coins” or collard greens served with them bring money.
Savory Black-eyed Peas
Carl Lewis
10 ounces dried black-eyed peas
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon dried summer savory or marjoram
1½ tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
Place 4 cups of water and all ingredients except salt and pepper in an electric slow cooker. Turn the heat to medium. Check the beans after 30 minutes to see if they need more water. Cook the beans for another 40 minutes or until they are soft. Season with salt and pepper.
Makes 6 servings.
Lentils
Yellow, red, black, green, brown—lentils come in an amazing array of colors and textures. Sprouted, puréed, stewed, sautéed, or made into salads, lentils provide plenty of protein, potassium, magnesium, and folate.
Brown lentils, the type you are most likely to find in your grocery store, have a soft, creamy texture when cooked. These small lens-shaped pulses take about 15 to 20 minutes to cook, making them ideal for a fast supper.
Green lentils and black lentils, called French or le Puy and Beluga, respectively, are round and have a firmer texture when cooked. They are used in salads and sauces, where they hold their shape. They make excellent sprouts that can then be eaten raw or quickly sautéed for a peppery crunch.
Red and yellow lentils tend to fall apart on cooking, yielding a purée with a pleasant grainy texture. Current culinary trends use these purées as a low-fat alternative to traditional cream or butter sauces.
Spaghetti with Lentil Tomato Sauce
Carl Lewis
1 cup brown lentils
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon dried basil
2 cups tomato sauce
1 small onion, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons black pepper
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon salt
8 ounces thin spaghetti
1½ teaspoons olive oil
3 or 4 sprigs parsley (optional)
Bring the lentils, thyme, basil, and 2 cups of water to boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the lentils are al dente, about 12 to 15 minutes. Drain the lentils.
Combine the lentils, tomato sauce, onion, pepper, pepper flakes, oregano, and salt in a saucepan. Simmer over low heat for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.
Cook the spaghetti according to the package directions. Drain and rinse. In a large serving bowl, toss the spaghetti with the olive oil. Pour the sauce over the spaghetti. Garnish with parsley, if desired.
Makes 4 servings.
Chickpeas
A staple of the Mediterranean, chickpeas can be mashed, puréed, stewed, boiled, fried, dried, and ground. I love the convenience and consistency of canned chickpeas. People who hate beans often make an exception for chickpeas. With their slightly nutty flavor and crunchy-creamy texture, chickpeas are one of the most multitalented beans around.
Sweet and Sour Eggplant
and Chickpea Stew
Serve this dish with some black Italian kale (bitter) and basmati rice (sweet) for an acrobatic flavor balance.
1½ pounds eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes, salted, and drained (page 221)
1 tablespoon oil
1 large red onion, diced
2 teaspoons minced garlic
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 20-ounce can diced tomatoes with juice
2 cups cooked chickpeas
2 tablespoons red, white, or tarragon wine vinegar
1 tablespoon Succanat or brown sugar
¼ cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
Salt and pepper
Rinse the eggplant and pat dry.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Sauté the onion, garlic, and pepper flakes for 4 minutes. Add the eggplant and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes longer, or until the paste is heated through. Stir in the tomatoes, chickpeas, vinegar, and sugar. Let the mixture stew for 10 minutes or until the eggplant is soft. Add the parsley and basil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Mixed Beans
Seven-Bean Chili
Carl Lewis
¼ cup dried pinto beans
¼ cup dried black turtle beans
¼ cup dried chickpeas
¼ cup dried soybeans
¼ cup dried kidney beans
¼ cup dried pinto or cranberry beans
¼ cup dried Great Northern beans
1 tablespoon cumin seeds, toasted
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 bay leaves
2 teaspoons oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 stalk celery, diced
1 medium red bell pepper, diced
1 medium green bell pepper, diced
1 teaspoon chili powder
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
1 cup diced tomatoes, fresh or canned
¼ cup red wine vinegar Salt and pepper
Rinse and soak the beans as described on page 163. Put the beans in a heavy soup pot with 8 cups of fresh water and the cumin seeds, oregano, and bay leaves. Bring the beans to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer for 2 hours. Check the pot periodically and add more water as needed.
While the beans are cooking, heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat and sauté the onion, garlic, celery, peppers, chili powder, pepper flakes, cumin, and coriander for 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomatoes and red wine vinegar and mix well. Cook the mixture until heated through.
Add the onion mixture to the soup pot when most of the beans seem tender (the soybeans will take the longest). Cook for 30 minutes. Remove and discard bay leaves. Season the chili with salt and pepper.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
GRAINS
Barley
There are several types of barley available.
Pearled barley, the most widely available type, has been stripped of its bran, steamed, and polished. Although it is considerably lower in protein and mineral content than the other varieties, it is easily digestible and cooks quickly (15 to 20 minutes).
Hulled barley has had only the indigestible hull removed.
Scotch barley is hulled barley that has been lightly polished, removing most of the bran, and then coarsely ground.
Whole barley, while significantly more nutritious than the other types, takes much longer to cook (40 to 60 minutes) and has a stronger flavor that some may find less agreeable.
A little barley goes a long way. Who hasn’t found their leftover mushroom barley soup turned into a mushroom barley brick after a day in the refrigerator? Toasting barley before cooking helps it retain its shape. When this is done, barley can be cooked much like risotto. Mushrooms are universally agreed to be barley’s best partner. Other foods that harmonize well with barley include green beans, roasted red peppers, onions, tomatoes, arugula, almonds, and hazelnuts.
Sesame Barley Pilaf
1 cup barley
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 medium onion, diced
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 medium carrots, cut into large matchsticks
4 stalks celery, cut diagonally into ½-inch pieces
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1 cup blanched English or sugar snap peas
1 teaspoon mushroom soy sauce
2 teaspoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil
¼ cup toasted pine nuts
Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the barley and toast just until it begins to brown. Remove from the skillet and reserve the barley. Heat the oil in the skillet and sauté the onion, garlic, carrots, celery, and ginger until the onion begins to soften. Add the barley and cook 4 minutes longer. Add 3 cups of water, stir, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the peas, soy sauces, sesame oil, and pine nuts and cook for 5 to 10 minutes longer.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Bulgur
Sometimes confused with cracked wheat, bulgur consists of whole grains of wheat that have been steamed, dried, and milled.
Coarse-ground bulgur is similar to rice in texture and is used in pilafs, stews, stuffing, and as a side dish.
Medium bulgur is used in salads, the best known of which is probably tabbouleh.
Fine bulgur is used in patties, especially kibbeh, and some desserts.
All bulgur should be washed before cooking to remove any dust. Coarse bulgur is added to a pan of sautéed vegetables with twice its volume of water, then cooked for 20 minutes and allowed to steam, off the heat, for 20 minutes longer. Medium or fine bulgur should be soaked in at least twice its volume of water, then drained in a sieve and pressed to remove the excess water. One cup of raw bulgur yields 1½ cups cooked.
Bulgur Pilaf with Cashews and Oven-Roasted Tomatoes
2 tablespoons oil
2 medium onions, diced
1 teaspoon minced garlic
½ cup chopped toasted cashews
1 cup coarse bulgur, rinsed
½ teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon salt
teaspoon black pepper
5 Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, chopped (page 239)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil, preferably lemon or cinnamon basil
Heat the oil in a wide, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté the onions, garlic, and half the cashews until the onions are soft. Add the bulgur, 2 cups of hot water, coriander, salt, pepper, and tomatoes and mix well. Cook, covered, over medium heat for 20 minutes. Remove the lid, quickly stir in the basil, cover the skillet, and remove from the heat. Let stand for 20 minutes so the bulgur can steam.
Alternatively, preheat the oven to 375°. Transfer the onion mixture to an ovenproof casserole. Add the bulgur, 2 cups of hot water, coriander, salt, pepper, and tomatoes. Cover the casserole tightly and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the casserole from the oven, stir in the basil, replace the cover, and let stand to allow the bulgur to steam for an additional 15 to 20 minutes.
Before serving, sprinkle the bulgur with the remaining cashews.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Chickpea Kibbeh
Kibbeh is a general term for a seasoned, shallow-fried patty. While fine bulgur is the base, most any combination of legumes, vegetables, and flour can be used. The mixture is usually flavored with a North African spice mix called raz al hanout, made with cumin, allspice, ginger, anise, cinnamon, and whatever else its creator decides to use. The sweet spices and the sharp edge of onion and garlic make for an interesting play of flavors. If you can find raz al hanout, substitute 1 teaspoon of it for the sweet spices in this recipe.
You can vary this recipe by substituting 12 ounces of tofu for the chickpeas, and thyme, basil, and oregano for the sweet spices. The result can be patted into patties or made into meatballs and fried. To reduce the fat, fit a baking sheet with parchment or spray it lightly with nonstick cooking spray, bake the patties or meatballs at 350° for 10 minutes, turn or rotate, and bake 7 minutes longer.
½ cup fine bulgur
1 cup cooked chickpeas
½ teaspoon pepper
1 small onion, chopped
1 teaspoon minced garlic
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground allspice
Pinch ground cinnamon
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro leaves
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 tablespoons nutritional yeast
¾ cup whole wheat flour Oil for frying
Put the bulgur in a medium mixing bowl. Rinse twice with cold water. Pour 2 cups boiling water over the bulgur. Stir once or twice to mix. Cover the bowl and let stand for 10 minutes to allow the bulgur to absorb the water. Pour the bulgur into a sieve and press to remove any excess liquid.
Purée the chickpeas with the pepper, onion, and garlic. Add the bulgur, spices, cilantro, salt, baking powder, and yeast to the food processor and pulse until well blended. Transfer this mixture to a mixing bowl. Add the flour and mix until a workable dough is formed. If the dough is quite sticky, add more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time. The dough will be a little wetter than biscuit dough.
Heat up to ½ inch of oil in a wide, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Form 2 tablespoons of the dough into patties ½ inch thick. Slide the patties into the oil and fry until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Turn and brown the other side. Drain the kibbeh on paper towels.
Serve hot or cold. The kibbeh may be reheated or held in a warm oven.
Makes 16 patties, 8 appetizer servings or 4 main-course servings.
Corn
Corn is one of the few grains eaten both fresh and dried. Modern processing removes the hull and the germ, but stone-ground corn retains these and their nutrients. As with many whole products, the shelf life of stone-ground cornmeal and grits tends to be shorter than that of the more processed versions due to the rich, polyunsaturated oils in the germ. Keep cornmeal and grits refrigerated or buy only enough for a month or two at a time.
Basic Polenta
Polenta is a rustic Italian cornmeal porridge—basically mush. It can be served soft or firm. Firm polenta can be grilled, seared, or baked. Soft polenta will become firm polenta on cooling. Although polenta can be flavored with any number of additions, I prefer to flavor it simply with olive oil and garlic, saving the fancy accoutrements for use as toppings.
Long cooking is necessary to develop the rich flavors and texture of the corn. A fine-ground polenta will cook much faster than corn grits, but you won’t get the same velvety texture. Some recipes call for cormmeal, but its quality is variable, with highly refined varieties resulting in a thin flavor. My favorite polenta is made from a particular whole-grain, stone-ground grit that takes four hours to fully cook. This is the love that polenta inspires.
When polenta is cooking, it is thick and hot, and when it bubbles, it splatters, which can cause very bad burns. Should the polenta “erupt,” lower the heat and add more water.
Serve polenta with grilled or roasted vegetables, Lentil Tomato Sauce (page 166), Roasted Red Pepper Coulis (page 131), sautéed escarole or broccoli rabe, or nothing at all.
2 teaspoons salt
1½ cups polenta or yellow corn grits
cup extra virgin olive oil
¼ teaspoon black pepper
½ teaspoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon mashed Roasted Garlic (page 223)
In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, bring 6 cups of water and the salt to a boil. Carefully whisk in the polenta, taking care that no lumps form. Cook, whisking, until the mixture becomes as thick as cream of wheat, about 5 to 8 minutes. Turn the heat to medium-low. Cook the polenta, stirring frequently with a spoon and adding water as needed, for at least 30 minutes, and up to 1½ hours for corn grits. The polenta should be thick but not too difficult to stir.
When the polenta is fully cooked, add the olive oil, pepper, and garlic. Adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper. Either serve the polenta immediately or spread in a lightly oiled jelly roll pan. Smooth the surface of the polenta and spread a small amount of oil over the top. Alternatively, pour the polenta into a lightly oiled loaf pan.
Makes 6 servings.
Posole
This Mexican dish features hominy, which is made from hard kernel corn that is left on the cob to dry, then treated with lye. Lye is a strong alkali made from wood ash and is also used in soap production. Why would someone put this on food? Processing corn this way makes the niacin available for absorption. Calcium, lysine, and tryptophan content are also increased. Hominy is also ground into grits and masa harina, the flour used to make tortillas. But mostly, those big white kernels are a wonderful comfort food. With this in mind, posole is not intended to be fiery hot, so choose your chilies based on your own tolerance. Because posole is a stew, it invites other ingredients you may have on hand. Try adding some chopped collard or mustard greens.
1 hot green chili, preferably jalapeño
2 poblano chilies
6 tomatillos or ½ cup prepared salsa verde
1 tablespoon oil
1 large onion, diced
3 cloves garlic
2 stalks celery, diced
2 pattypan squash, cut into ¾-inch chunks (optional)
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon fresh lemon thyme leaves or ¼ teaspoon dried thyme
1 tablespoon fresh oregano, preferably Mexican, or 1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 15-ounce cans hominy, drained
1 15-ounce can Italian white beans (cannellini), drained
4 cups Vegetable Stock (page 65), or 1 vegan bouillon cube and 4 cups water
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
Avocado, green onions, lime wedges, shredded lettuce, corn bread, radishes, diced tomato, or chopped red or yellow bell peppers as accompaniments
Roast, seed, and coarsely chop the jalapeño and poblanos (page 231). Reserve.
Heat a heavy skillet over medium to medium-high heat. Remove the husks from the tomatillos. Sear the tomatillos in the hot skillet, moving them constantly. The skins should turn brown but not burn. The cooking time will vary. Remove the tomatillos from the pan. When they are cool enough to handle, coarsely chop them, reserving any liquid they release.
Heat the oil in a soup pot. Cook the onion, garlic, celery, squash, cumin, pepper, thyme, and oregano until the onion is soft. Add the chilies, tomatillos, hominy, and beans and mix well. Add the vegetable stock. Bring the stew to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 30 minutes to 1 hour, until the squash are soft and the flavors are blended. Stir the cilantro into the stew just before serving.
To serve, ladle the posole into deep soup bowls and garnish with any of the suggested accompaniments.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Millet
Millet’s small size makes it easy to overlook. It’s often the last grain left in the bird feeder, with even seed-eaters preferring to avoid it. Millet was first cultivated ten thousand years ago and may have been the first grain to be bred for improved size and yield. Perhaps its humble status is due to its tendency to become a gluey mass if not toasted before cooking. This may be why it is known as the “gruel of endurance” in the Old Testament. Millet is, however, one of China’s five sacred crops, and was more important at one time than rice. The best millet recipes take advantage of its nutty flavor and pleasing texture.
Millet Paella
2 cups millet
2 tablespoons olive oil
A few saffron threads
1 medium onion, cut into halves and sliced inch thick
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 red bell pepper, diced
1 yellow bell pepper, diced
1 green bell pepper, diced
1 bulb fennel, trimmed (page 222) and sliced inch thick
3 cups warm Vegetable Stock (page 65) or water
1 15-ounce can kidney beans, rinsed and drained, or 1 cup Seitan Chorizo (page 277), optional
1 cup diced tomatoes, fresh or canned
3 cups chopped escarole
½ cup peas, fresh or frozen, or 1 cup sugar snap peas or ½ cup edamame
Put a wide soup pot over medium heat. Add the millet to the pan and toast until it begins to brown, about 4 or 5 minutes. When the millet begins to pop, remove from the pan and reserve.
Heat the olive oil in the pot and add the saffron. When the saffron turns from bright red to slightly brown, add the onion, garlic, peppers, and fennel to the pot. Add the millet and mix well. Add the stock or water and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes. Add the beans or Seitan Chorizo, tomatoes, escarole, and peas to the stew. Cover and cook 5 minutes longer, or until the millet is soft but not mushy.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Rice
Half of the world’s population is dependent on rice for sustenance. India saw the advent of rice cultivation about five thousand years ago. The spread of rice was slow but steady, and today rice is grown on every continent except Antarctica.
The nutrient content of rice has been enhanced through selective breeding. Most recently, a genetically modified rice containing beta-carotene has been developed to help combat vitamin A deficiency in countries where rice is a staple.
Your local grocer or health food store should be able to supply you with a rainbow of rice: purple, black, white, brown, red. The less polished varieties should be bought in small quantities that will be used up quickly, as the oils in the bran and germ will become rancid. Here is a quick overview of the types of rice generally found at the grocery:
Brown rice is the entire grain with only the indigestible husk removed. Brown rice takes longer to cook than white, but is much more nutritious, with more fiber, potassium, protein, phosphorus, riboflavin, and niacin than enriched white rice. Brown rice is available in many lengths and varieties. Try brown basmati rice; it has a distinctly nutty flavor and chewy texture. Quick and instant brown rice products are now available. These products have been “converted,” which shortens the cooking time but adversely affects the texture.
Rice bran contains oil that is rich in polyunsaturated fats and vitamin E and has been shown to help reduce cholesterol. Since brown rice still has the bran attached, its shelf life is only 6 months. If you plan on keeping it longer than that, store the rice in the freezer or refrigerator.
White rice has had the husk, bran, and germ removed. When white rice, also known as polished rice, became common in Asia, the people there developed beriberi, a disease caused by a deficiency of thiamin, or vitamin B1, which is found in the bran of rice. Most white rice produced in the United States is now fortified with B vitamins and iron. These vitamins and minerals are sprayed on the surface of the rice. Rinsing the rice, as called for in some of the recipes that follow, removes many of these supplements.
Long-grain rice is four to five times longer than it is wide. With a relatively low starch content, cooked long-grain rice is light and dry, with separate grains. Basmati, jasmine, and California Rose are all long-grain rice varieties.
Short-grain rice has round, plump grains. It has a high starch content and when cooked it is sticky even when it is rinsed beforehand. Arborio is a short-grain rice variety, and sushi and mochi (Japanese rice cakes) are short-grain rice products.
Medium-grain rice has an appearance somewhere between that of the long- and short-grain varieties. When cooked, medium-grain rice is light and fluffy at first but gets sticky as it cools.
Converted or parboiled rice is soaked, then steamed under pressure, then dried. The white varieties are then milled. Steaming the whole grain helps infuse some of the bran and germ nutrients into the rice. The starch in the rice begins to bind together so that on final cooking, the grains are fluffy and separate.
Many varieties of rice are readily available. Should you happen to pick up a bag of imported rice with a decidedly shiny look, rinse thoroughly before cooking. This rice has been coated with a mixture of talc and glucose that acts as a preservative.
Jasmine rice is an aromatic long-grain variety from Thailand.
Basmati translates as “queen of fragrance.” This long-grain rice is aged to reduce its moisture content, which enhances its nutty aroma.
Wehani rice is a basmati hybrid developed by Lundberg Farms in California. This brick red rice has the texture of wild rice and the fragrance of popcorn.
Arborio rice has short, plump grains; it is the most common rice used for risotto. Upon cooking, arborio releases its starch, which gives risotto its characteristic creamy texture.
Wild rice is not a rice at all, but a marsh grass native to the Great Lakes region. Its nutty flavor and chewy texture make it a perfect partner for classic autumn flavors such as hazelnuts, sage, mushrooms, and winter squash.
Stovetop Rice
There are several ways to prepare rice on the stovetop.
Absorption Method
This method works for a wide variety of rice. No nutrients are lost through rinsing or using excess water, making this the method of choice for enriched rice.
1 cup long-grain white rice
¾ teaspoon salt
Combine 2 cups of water, rice, and salt in a heavy-bottomed, 2-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Boil the rice, uncovered, until holes appear in the surface of the rice, about 7 minutes. Turn the heat to very low (or, if you have an electric burner, turn the heat off), cover the pot, and let the rice steam for 8 to 15 minutes. Separate the grains with a fork before serving.
Makes 4 servings.
Steaming Method
This is the same method that rice cookers employ. The measurements are inexact because the amount of water that the rice retains on rinsing varies. Once you’ve tried this method a few times, you’ll know how to make the judgments. Jasmine and basmati rice are typically cooked without salt so their fragrant, nutty flavors can shine through.
2 cups jasmine or basmati rice
Put the rice in a heavybottomed 2-quart pot. Fill the pot with cold water. Agitate the rice in the water. When the rinse water is milky, pour it off and repeat the rinsing process. Continue rinsing the rice until the water is fairly clear, about 4 to 8 times.
Add enough clean water to the pot to cover the rice by about ¾ inch. Cover the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to very low and cook for 8 minutes. Turn the heat off and let the rice steam for 5 minutes. Separate the grains with a fork before serving.
Makes 8 servings.
Excess Water Method
The Absorption and Steaming Methods rely on steaming the rice in a specific quantity of water. This method just boils the rice in an excess of water until it is done. This is the preferred method of cooking starchy rice varieties to obtain a fluffy result, as the extra starch is drained with the cooking water. This method works well for short-grain brown rice and wild rice.
2 cups short-grain brown rice or wild rice
Bring a 2-quart pot of water to boil. Add the rice while stirring vigorously. Boil until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes for short-grain brown rice or 30 to 40 minutes for wild rice. Drain the rice into a strainer or colander. Rinse with running water if preparing the rice for salads or cold dishes.
Makes 8 servings.
Baked Rice
This method gives the rice several dimensions of flavor, especially if you choose to sauté some onions, garlic, celery, and seasonings with the rice.
2 cups long-grain white rice
2 tablespoons oil
2½ cups tepid water or Vegetable Stock (page 65)
1 teaspoon salt
Preheat the oven to 350°. Rinse the rice in several changes of water until the rinse water is clear, about 5 to 8 times. Heat the oil in an ovenproof pot. Sauté the rice in the oil until it just begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tepid water or Vegetable Stock and salt to the rice. Cover the pot and place in the oven. Cook the rice for 30 minutes, or until the water is absorbed and the rice is tender.
If you prefer, you can sauté the rice in a skillet and then transfer it to a baking dish.
Makes 8 servings.
Dirty Rice
2 cups long-grain white rice
3 tablespoons oil
2 medium onions, diced
1 small green bell pepper, diced
1 small red bell pepper, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dry mustard
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon cayenne
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350°. Rinse the rice in several changes of water until the rinse water is clear, about 5 to 8 times. Lightly oil or spray a 9x13-inch baking dish.
Heat the oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat, and sauté the rice and onions until the rice begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Cook the mixture until the vegetables start to wilt, about 4 minutes. Transfer the mixture to the baking dish. Add 2½ cups of tepid water. Cover the dish tightly with foil and bake until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 30 to 40 minutes.
Makes 8 servings.
Lemon Zucchini Risotto
Here’s a dish that exploits the starchiness of the rice instead of rinsing it away. Risotto always uses a short-grain rice with a high starch content. Arborio is the easiest to find in the grocery store, though carnaroli or vialone nano are more forgiving, remaining al dente longer, should there be a delay in getting dinner on the table.
Risotto is not difficult, but it does require the cook’s full attention. If you are an experienced risotto cook, you probably know that a little inattention can turn risotto into a burnt, gluey mass. Cooking time is generally 20 to 30 minutes. Most of the time is spent stirring and watching for the rice to absorb liquid.
The result should be creamy, with a consistency between that of soup and porridge. Most main course risotto is served in bowls. For risotto served as a side dish, allow the risotto to get just a bit thicker so it will sit nicely on a plate.
Fresh basil is preferable for this recipe, but dried also works well. Dried basil is added at the beginning of the cooking process to extract its full flavor. Fresh basil is added at the end.
6 cups Vegetable Stock (page 65)
2 tablespoons oil
1 small onion, diced
2 to 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1½ cups arborio rice
3 tablespoons shredded fresh basil or 1 teaspoon dried basil
½ cup dry white wine
2 medium zucchini, cut into halves lengthwise, then into ½-inch slices
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup diced fresh tomatoes
Salt and white pepper
Heat the stock over low heat on a burner near the risotto pan. Have a ladle handy.
Heat the oil in a large, wide skillet over medium-high heat and sauté the onion, garlic, rice, and dried basil (but not fresh basil). Cook, stirring constantly, until the rice begins to brown. Do not let more than one-tenth of the rice brown. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until the rice absorbs the wine. Add 1 cup of the stock. Reduce the heat to medium. Cook, stirring, until most of the stock is absorbed. Do not allow the rice to brown or stick to the pan. Continue adding the stock, 1 cup at a time, and cook until it is nearly all absorbed. When adding the last cup of stock, add the zucchini.
When the stock is absorbed and the zucchini is just tender, remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the lemon juice, half the zest, 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, tomatoes, and 2 tablespoons of the fresh basil. Mix gently so the zucchini doesn’t fall apart. Taste for seasoning and add salt and white pepper as needed.
Divide the risotto among four large, shallow bowls. Garnish with the reserved basil and top with some lemon zest. Drizzle a teaspoon or so of the extra virgin olive oil around the herbs. Serve immediately.
Makes 4 servings.
Nasi Goreng (Indonesian Fried Rice)
It is best to completely cool the rice before frying so that the grains remain separate when fried and take on all the different flavors. Serve with Ginger-Fried Tempeh (page 251) for a complete meal.
2 cups long-grain rice, brown or white
3 tablespoons peanut oil
1 small onion, very finely chopped
1 to 3 large fresh red chilies, seeded and thinly sliced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
2 medium carrots, diced
4 ounces button mushrooms, quartered
2 teaspoons ketchup
1 tablespoon soy sauce
½ teaspoon salt
2 cups shredded cabbage (napa or green)
½ cucumber, sliced
1 bunch watercress
Cook the rice according to any of the stovetop directions above. Fluff it with a fork. Let it cool completely.
Heat the oil in a wok or wide, deep skillet over high heat. Add the onion, chilies, and ginger and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the carrots and mushrooms and stir-fry for 2 minutes longer. Add the ketchup, soy sauce, and salt and mix well. Add the cabbage and stir-fry until it wilts, 1 to 2 minutes for napa, 4 to 6 minutes for green cabbage. Reduce the heat to medium-low.
Add the cold rice and mix thoroughly. Cook until the rice is heated through. Add a little water if the rice begins to stick or burn. Transfer the rice to a serving platter and garnish with cucumber slices and watercress.
Makes 4 servings.