CHAPTER 6

THE GEARBOX

6:1    Description

6:2    Removing and refitting gearbox

6:3    Dismantling and reassembling gearbox

6:4    The gearchange mechanism

6:5    Fault diagnosis

6:1 Description

Models in the Giulia, 1750 and 2000 ranges are provided with gearboxes having five forward speeds and reverse, synchromesh operating on all five forward gears. FIG 6:1 shows a section through the five-speed gearbox. Gear selection is by means of either a floor-mounted lever or a steering column lever and linkage, both of which are covered in Section 6:4. The light-alloy gearbox case consists of two main casing halves, a front bellhousing which encloses the clutch assembly, and a rear cover. An exploded view of the gearbox case assembly is shown in FIG 6:2. Gearbox oil level should be maintained to the level of the filler plug, and should be checked and, if necessary, topped-up to the correct level at 4000 mile intervals. Every 10,000 miles the gearbox should be drained while the oil is hot, then refilled with fresh SAE.90 gear oil.

6:2 Removing and refitting the gearbox

Removal:

1   On cars equipped with floor-mounted gearlevers, remove the floor carpet, slacken the clamp and remove the rubber boot from the gearlever. Unscrew and remove the gearlever, collecting the two balls from the inside of the gearlever.

2   Refer to FIGS 6:3 and 6:4 and detach the following items from beneath the car. The propeller shaft at the intermediate joint flange 1, marking both flanges for correct refitting; the propeller shaft centre bearing support 2, the cross-plate 3, speedometer drive cable 4, exhaust pipe bracket 5, clutch cover 6, gear selector lever 7, reversing light leads 8, clutch operating lever 9 and the gear engagement lever 10.

3   Remove the bolts shown in FIG 6:5 securing the gearbox crossmember to the car body, then remove the bolt securing the gearbox to the crossmember as shown in FIG 6:6 and remove the crossmember. Remove the bolts securing the gearbox to the engine crankcase and remove the gearbox towards the rear. Do not allow the weight of the gearbox to rest on the splined shaft during removal, or serious damage to the clutch driven plate will result. Drain the oil from the gearbox and remove the front section of the propeller shaft from the rear of the gearbox, using tool A.2.0124.

Refitting:

Refitting the gearbox is a reversal of the removal procedure, noting the following points. Index the alignment marks at the intermediate joint flange when refitting the propeller shaft. If the clutch was removed, refer to Chapter 5 for clutch driven plate alignment procedure. Support the gearbox when refitting to the engine to avoid straining the clutch driven plate. Refill the gearbox with oil.

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FIG 6:1   Section through the fivespeed gearbox

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FIG 6:2   Exploded view of gearbox casing

Key to Fig 6:2

1   Washer

2   Stud

3   Dowel

4   Bolt

5   Stud

6   Bolt

7   Dowel

8   Stud

9   Inspection cover

10   Clutch housing

11   Stud

12   Bush

13   Washer

14   Nut

15   Stud

16   Stud

17   Nut

18   Washer

19   Bottom cover

20   Washer

21   Nut

22   Cover plate

23   Rubber cap

24   Self tapping screw

25   Nut

26   Gasket

27   Gasket

28   Magnetic drain plug

29   Closing plug

30   Gearbox casing halves

31   Nut

32   Vent plug

33   Rear cover

34   Stud

35   Gasket

36   Pin

37   Speedometer pinion

38   Pinion housing

39   Washer

40   Nut

41   Speedometer cable

42   Rubber banded mounting

43   Sealing washer

44   Washer

45   Nut

46   Washer

47   Bolt

48   Washer

49   Cross member

50   Washer

51   Gearbox assembly

52   Screw

53   Reversing lamp switch

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FIG 6:3   Items to be detached for gearbox removal

6:3 Dismantling and reassembling gearbox

Dismantling:

1   Mount the gearbox in a suitable stand. Refer to FIG 6:7 and remove the gearbox drive flange, screwing in one of the flange bolts as shown to prevent the mainshaft from turning. Unscrew the nuts securing the rear cover and remove the cover, noting that for floor-change gearboxes it will be necessary to engage third gear to do this.

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FIG 6:4   Items to be detached for gearbox removal

2   Refer to FIG 6:8 and remove the bolt securing the fifth and reverse gear selector fork in order to remove the selector shaft. Remove the reversing light switch, if fitted. Detach the spring clips and remove the clutch release bearing from the clutch release lever. Remove the nut arrowed in FIG 6:9 and remove the gearchange lever. Using suitable circlip pliers, remove the retaining ring shown in FIG 6:10 from the groove in the shaft. Remove the large retaining ring which secures the seat for the reverse gear return spring from the groove in the boss. Remove the spring seat and withdraw the shaft.

3   Unscrew the nuts securing the gearbox bellhousing to the gearbox case and remove the bellhousing. Unscrew the nuts fastening the gearbox case halves together and separate the halves as shown in FIG 6:11, tapping the case lightly with a soft mallet if necessary. Do not try to lever the case halves apart or the joint faces will be damaged. The joint faces are machined to fit together without gaskets so care must be used to avoid damage to any gearbox joint face during servicing.

4   Remove the selector shaft plunger retaining plate as shown in FIG 6:12 and withdraw the plungers, springs and balls. Loosen the setscrews shown in FIG 6:13 which lock the selector forks to the selector shafts, then slide out the shafts and forks together with the interlock. If only one of the selector shafts is to be removed, push out the shaft with a dummy shaft as shown in FIG 6:14 to hold the interlock plunger and ball in position. Push the dummy shaft out with the selector shaft when refitting. If necessary, remove the outer race of the layshaft rear bearing with puller A.3.0101. The race should be refitted with a suitable punch and the aid of a press. FIG 6:15 shows the method of removal.

5   Lift the constant pinion shaft and mainshaft from the gearbox case and separate the two shafts. Lift out the layshaft assembly. Remove the reverse idler gear from the upper gearbox case half. FIG 6:16 shows the mainshaft and constant pinion shaft assemblies.

The dismantling of the internal parts of the gearbox is best carried out with access to suitable press equipment. If such equipment is not available, a suitable puller can be employed to remove the various components from their shafts. FIGS 6:16 and 6:17 show the components of the mainshaft and constant pinion shaft assemblies.

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FIG 6:5   Removing the crossmember mounting bolts

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FIG 6:6   Removing the gearbox to crossmember bolt

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FIG 6:7   Removing the gearbox drive flange

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FIG 6:8   Removing the fifth and reverse gear selector bolt

Dismantling the mainshaft:

1   With the press plates behind reverse gear, press off the reverse gear together with the synchronizer unit, fifth-speed gear and the rear bearing. Remove the securing keys.

2   Press off the intermediate bearing and withdraw the shims, the first-speed gearwheel with its bush, and the operating sleeve for the first- and second-speed synchronizer unit. Press off the synchronizer hub for first and second gears then remove the keys and slide off the second-speed gearwheel.

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FIG 6:9   Removing the gearchange lever

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FIG 6:10   The reverse gearshaft retaining rings

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FIG 6:11   Separating the gearbox case halves

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FIG 6:12   Removing the selector shaft plunger retaining plate

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FIG 6:13   The selector fork setscrews

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FIG 6:14   Inserting a dummy shaft for the removal of one selector shaft

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FIG 6:15   Removing the layshaft rear bearing outer race

3   Remove the retaining ring from the third- and fourth-speed synchromesh hub then press off the hub. Slide off the third-speed gear and remove the keys.

Dismantling the constant pinion shaft:

After removing the retaining ring and the shim beneath it, press off the constant pinion shaft bearing,

Dismantling the layshaft:

The dismantling of the layshaft is only necessary if one or more of the layshaft bearings are to be renewed (see FIG 6:18).

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FIG 6:16   The mainshaft and constant pinion shaft assembly

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FIG 6:17   Components of the mainshaft and constant pinion shaft assemblies

Key to Fig 6:17

1   Retaining ring

2   Synchronizing ring

3   Locking band

4   Stop

5   Roller bearing

6   Segment

7   Constant pinion shaft

8   Bearing

9   Shim

10   Retaining ring

11   Spacer

12   Oil seal

13   Synchronizing ring

14   Stop

15   Locking band

16   Second-speed gearwheel

17   Mainshaft

18   Key

19   Third-speed gearwheel

20   Locking band

21   Stop

22   Synchronizing band

23   Segment

24   Retaining ring

25   Bushes

26   Operating sleeve

27   Synchromesh hub

28   Shim

29   Retaining ring

30   Retaining key

31   Gearwheel

32   Bearing

33   Shim

34   Spacer bush

35   First-speed gearwheel

36   Stop

37   Locking band

38   Bush

39   Segment

40   Synchronizing ring

41   Retaining ring

42   Operating sleeve

43   Synchromesh hub

44   Retaining ring

45   Segment

46   Bolt

47   Drive flange

48   Nut

49   Lockplate

50   Oil seal

51   Speedometer drive gear

52   Bearing

53   Shim

54   Fifth-speed gearwheel

55   Bush

56   Spacer bush

57   Stop

58   Locking band

59   Segment

60   Synchronizing ring

61   Retaining ring

62   Operating sleeve

63   Synchromesh hub

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FIG 6:18   Components of the layshaft assembly

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FIG 6:19   Removing the retaining ring from a synchromesh unit

Clamp the layshaft into a vice, using soft vice jaws or suitably padding the layshaft to prevent damage, then remove the nut D. Pull off the roller bearing E and the gear assembly F for fifth and reverse gears. Press off the bearing A.

With the layshaft again held in the vice, remove the nut G and the washer then press off the front bearing H.

Inspection and servicing:

Clean all parts with the exception of the clutch release bearing in paraffin and dry them off. The clutch release bearing must not be cleaned with a solvent of any kind as this would destroy the internal lubrication. Wipe the bearing clean with a cloth. Lubricate all the ball and roller bearings after cleaning and turn them between the fingers to check for roughness or side play. If there is any doubt about the condition of a bearing it must be renewed. The clutch release bearing is sealed and lubricated for life and must be renewed if not in good condition.

Clean the inside and outside of the clutch bellhousing, gearbox half casings and the rear cover with paraffin. Remove all traces of old sealing compound from the joint faces, using care to avoid damaging the surfaces. Do not use sharp or pointed tools for cleaning the joint faces as the gearbox case joints fit together without gaskets and oil leakage will result from damaged faces.

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FIG 6:20   First gear synchromesh assembly

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FIG 6:21   Second, third, fourth and fifth-speed synchromesh assembly

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FIG 6:22   Checking the clearance between the selector fork and the operating sleeve

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FIG 6:23   Checking the free movement of the selector shaft interlock pins

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FIG 6:24   Checking the dimensions of the selector lockball springs

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FIG 6:25   Renewing the gearbox silentbloc mounting pad with the special tool

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FIG 6:26   Fitting a shim of the correct thickness to take up end play between the retaining ring and the synchronizer hub

Dismantle and inspect the synchromesh units. Refer to FIG 6:19 and remove the retaining ring as shown and check the engaging teeth for signs of wear or seizure. Check that the operating sleeves move freely on the synchromesh hub. Refer to FIGS 6:20 and 6:21 and check for excessive wear on the rings E and that the stop G and segment H show no signs of scoring where they contact strips L. Renew any parts found unserviceable. Reassemble the synchromesh units in the reverse order of dismantling, taking care that the components are installed in the correct original positions (see FIGS 6:20 and 6:21). Check the side clearance between the selector forks and the synchromesh operating sleeves as shown in FIG 6:22. The correct clearance is .006 to .013 inch (.150 to .340 mm), with a wear limit of .033 inch (.850 mm).

Inspect all gearwheels for wear and chipped or damaged teeth. Mount the mainshaft between the centres of a lathe and use a dial gauge to check the runout at the centre of the shaft. Carry out the same operation on the constant pinion shaft. In either case shaft runout should not exceed .002 inch (.05 mm). If runout exceeds this figure a new shaft must be fitted.

Check that the interlock pins arrowed in FIG 6:23 slide freely in their grooves and that the working surfaces of the pins and the selector rods are perfectly smooth. If one of the interlock pins should stick, round off the fillet on the notch in the selector shaft slightly, using a very fine file. Refer to FIG 6:24 and check the locking balls, springs and caps for wear or damage, renewing parts as necessary. Check that the notches in the selector shafts are in good condition. For earlier boxes, the free length of the springs L should be .598 inch (15.2 mm) and the length Lc under a load C of 11 to 12 lb (4.77 to 5.45 kg) should be .394 inch (10 mm). For later boxes, L = 1.41 inch (35.8 mm), C = 17 to 18 lb (7.68 to 8.32 kg) and Lc = .68 inch (17.2 mm).

Remove the old oil seals from the front and rear gearbox covers. Drive in new oil seals, preferably with mandrel A.3.0180, keeping them square. If necessary, renew the Silentbloc mounting pad which supports the gearbox and engine unit. Use tool A.3.0118 for mounting block removal and installation as shown in FIG 6:25. The Silentbloc mounting pad can be renewed without the need for complete gearbox removal but, in this case, it will be necessary to carry out all operations previously detailed for gearbox removal except the removal of the gearbox to engine fixing bolts. The engine and gearbox assembly can then be tilted downwards to gain the necessary access to the mounting pad.

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FIG 6:27   Checking for correct shim thickness between the first gear bush and the mainshaft bearing inner race

Reassembly:

Reassembling the layshaft:

This is a reversal of the dismantling instructions given earlier. Tighten the layshaft nuts to a torque of 57.8 lb ft.

Reassembling the constant pinion shaft:

Press the bearing onto the shaft and refit the shim and retaining ring.

Reassembling the mainshaft:

1   Place the mainshaft in tool A.3.0185 and slide on the third-speed gearwheel and the keys. Heat the third-and fourth-speed synchronizer hub to a temperature of 150°C in a hot oil bath or an oven, then fit it to the shaft. Fit the retaining ring and check that there is no end play between the retaining ring and the hub. Any clearance must be taken up by fitting a shim of the correct thickness as shown in FIG 6:26.

2   Turn the mainshaft over and slide the second-speed gearwheel over the shaft with the synchronizing mechanism facing downwards. Heat the first- and second-speed synchronizer hub in the manner previously described then drive it onto the shaft until it abuts against the shaft shoulder. Fit the operating sleeve over the synchronizer hub. Fit the first-speed gearwheel together with the bush and shims. The shims must be of sufficient thickness to ensure that there is no end play when the retaining rings are fitted.

3   Heat the intermediate bearing as previously described and fit it to the shaft, then insert the key. Heat the reverse-speed gearwheel and drive it onto the shaft until it abuts against the face of the bearing. Heat up and fit the fifth-speed synchronizer hub and fit the operating sleeve over the hub. Fit the fifth-speed gearwheel and bush over the shaft. Fit the rear mainshaft bearing, speedometer drive gear and the gearbox drive flange to the shaft, tightening the mainshaft nut to a torque of 56 lb ft. The end clearance of the first-speed gearwheel, which is determined by the first-speed gearwheel bush, should not exceed,0095 inch (.24 mm). The clearance between the second- and third-speed gearwheels, determined by the second-speed gearwheel bush, should not exceed .0083 inch (.21 mm).

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FIG 6:28   Measuring the distance between the operating sleeves and the engagement teeth abutment faces

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FIG 6:29   Measuring the distance between the fifth-speed operating sleeve and the engagement teeth abutment faces

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FIG 6:30   Fitting the centralizing ring A to its seat

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FIG 6:31   The oil seal protection sleeve in position

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FIG 6:32   The components of the floor-mounted gearchange mechanism

Key to Fig 6:32

1   Sleeve

2   Spring

3   Rubber grommet

4   Gearchange lever

5   Bonded rubber block

6   Retaining rod

7   Rubber sleeve

8   Rubber plug

9   Adaptor

11   Washer

12   Retaining pin

13   Clamp

15   Rubber gaiter

16   Retainer

17   Cup washer

18   Nut

19   Sealing washer

20   Dished washer

21   Dished washer

22   Cap

23   Bleeder plug

24   Bearing block

25   Nut

26   Washer

27   Retaining plate

28   Bush

29   Spring

30   Ball

31   Sealing washer

32   Adjusting plate

33   Locking plate

34   Securing screw

35   Selector fork for third and fourth-speed

36   Selector fork for first and second-speed

37   Gearchange lever knob

38   Locknut

39   Spring washer

40   Gearchange lever

41   Nut

42   Washer

43   Securing screw

44   Ball

45   Operating plunger

46   Spring

47   Locking pin

48   Inner selector lever

49   Selector head

50   Bolt

51   Spring

52   Retaining ring

53   Spring seat

54   Stud

55   Bleeder plug

56   Bearing block

57   Nut

58   Washer

59   Stud

60   Selector shaft for first and second-speed

61   Selector shaft for third and fourth speed

62   Selector shaft for fifth and reverse-speed

63   Interlocking plunger

64   Selector fork for fifth and reverse-speed

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FIG 6:33   The selector shaft mechanism

Key to Fig 6:33

1   Retaining plate

2   Bush

3   Spring

4   Ball

5   Sealing washers

6   Bush

7   Retaining ring

8   Washer

9   Retaining ring

10   Spring seat

11   Spring

12   Spring collar

13   Spring housing

14   Selector cross-shaft

15   Inner engagement lever

16   Seal ring

17   Seal washer

18   Seal retainer

19   Bush

20   Bracket

21   First and second selector shaft

22   Adjusting plate

23   First and second selector fork

24   Third and fourth selector shaft

25   Interlock plunger

26   Third and fourth selector fork

27   Lockplate

28   Securing screw

29   Fifth and reverse selector fork

30   Fifth and reverse selector shaft

31   Nut

32   Washer

33   Lever securing bolt

34   Washer

35   Nut

36   Gear engagement lever

37   Selector lever

4   Fit the roller bearing into the counterbore in the constant pinion shaft and assemble the mainshaft and constant pinion shaft as shown in FIG 6:16. Fit the layshaft into the gearbox casing half and check that the locking device is positioned correctly. Place the mainshaft and constant pinion shaft assembly into the gearbox casing half and, using an accurate measuring caliper, check that the dimension A in FIG 6:27 is between 1.654 and 1.661 inch (42 and 42.19 mm). If not, the shim thickness between the first-gear bush and the mainshaft bearing inner race must be changed accordingly. Remove the gearbox drive flange and speedometer drive gear from the mainshaft.

5   Place the gearbox in neutral and check that the operating sleeves of third- and fourth-speed and first- and second-speed are equally spaced between the abutment faces of the engaging teeth on the gearwheels as shown in FIG 6:28. Refer to FIG 6:29 and check that the rear edge of the fifth-gear operating sleeve is .394 inch (10 mm) on earlier models or .508 inch (12.9 mm) on 1750 and later models away from the engaging teeth when the gearwheel is in the neutral position. When these checks have been made, correctly adjust the positions of the selector forks on the selector shafts and tighten the selector forks securing screws and tab the lockplates. Engage third gear.

6   Refer to FIG 6:30 and insert the centring ring A in its seat as shown. Fit the reverse idler gear onto the reverse idler shaft. When reassembling the gearbox case the joint faces must be smeared with Permatex No. 3 jointing compound. No gaskets are used. Fit the two gearbox case halves together, then fit the rear cover. When refitting the clutch bellhousing to the gearbox case halves it is recommended that tool A.3.0114 be used to protect the oil seal as shown in FIG 6:31. On cars fitted with floor mounted gear-change, check that the finger of the inner swivel is engaged with the third- and fourth-speed selector shaft. Engage each gear in turn and check that the operation is smooth and light. Refit the selector lever end cover with a new O-ring seal. Fit the speedometer drive gear and the gearbox drive flange and tighten the securing nut to the torque specified in Technical Data and tab the lockplate.

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FIG 6:34   Checking and adjusting gear selector control linkage

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FIG 6:35   Checking and adjusting gear engaging control linkage

6:4 The gearchange mechanism

Floor mounted gearchange:

FIG 6:32 shows an exploded view of the floor mounted gearchange mechanism and the selector shaft assemblies. The removal and refitting of the selector shafts and forks is described in Section 6:3. If overhaul of the gearlever mechanism is necessary it should be dismantled into the order shown in FIG 6:32 and faulty components renewed.

Steering column gearchange:

FIG 6:33 shows the selector shaft mechanism, the removal and refitting of these components being covered in Section 6:3. After gearbox overhaul or if there has been difficulty in changing gear, the linkage should be checked and, if necessary, adjusted as follows.

Checking and adjusting:

Gear selector control:

Refer to FIG 6:34. Engage first or second gear and check that the gearlever can be moved still further towards the steering wheel as shown in the inset. Engage fifth or reverse gear and check that the gearlever can be moved still further towards the dashboard. The extra travel should be approximately the same in both cases. If there is no travel towards the steering wheel or it is shorter than the travel towards the dashboard, lengthen the pushrod 1 by acting on the adjuster 2. If, alternatively, there is no travel towards the dashboard or it is shorter than the travel towards the steering wheel, shorten the pushrod 1 by acting on the adjuster 2. To adjust the rod, free it from the lever 3 by removing the pivot pin.

Gear engaging control:

Refer to FIG 6:35. Engage first, third or fifth gear and check that the gearlever can be moved still further after engagement. Engage second, fourth or reverse gear and check that the gearlever can be moved still further after engagement. The extra travel should be approximately the same in both cases. If there is no further travel after engaging an odd gear or it is shorter than the travel with an even gear engaged, shorten the pushrod 4 by acting on adjuster 5. If, alternatively, there is no further travel after engaging an even gear or reverse or it is shorter than the travel with an odd gear engaged, lengthen the pushrod 4 by acting on adjuster 5.

If the correct travel adjustments cannot be obtained by the method just described, adjust the lower pushrod 6 by acting on the adjuster 7. To do this, detach the rod 6 from the lever 8 by removing the pivot pin.

6:5 Fault diagnosis

(a)   Jumping out of gear

1   Broken spring behind selector rod locating ball

2   Excessively worn groove in selector shaft

3   Worn synchromesh units

4   Fork to selector shaft securing screw loose

(b)   Noisy transmission

1   Insufficient oil

2   Worn or damaged bearings

3   Worn or damaged gearwheels

(c)   Difficulty in engaging gear

1   Incorrect clutch pedal adjustment

2   Worn synchromesh assemblies

3   Worn or loose selector forks

(d)   Oil leaks

1   Worn or damaged oil seals

2   Damaged faces on gearbox casing components

NOTES