A cross between a devil’s food cake and a whoopie pie, Drake’s Devil Dogs are a mystery for many who didn’t grow up on the East Coast. After Hostess bought the Brooklyn-founded company in the late ’90s, however, the regional snacks worked their way across the country. If you thought Suzy Qs and Ding Dongs were too greasy (not to mention oddly monikered), you might just say “hot dog!” to a Drake’s Devil Dog.
YIELD: 16 cakes
TOTAL TIME: 1 hour
DIFFICULTY: 3
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: canoe pan (or standard 12-cup muffin tin, 4 mini loaf pans, square metal baking pans, or split-top hot dog bun pan), food processor, electric hand mixer and/or stand mixer, candy/oil thermometer
CAKE
1/2 cup (1-1/2 ounces) unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 cup boiling water
2-2/3 cups (10 ounces) cake flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
8 tablespoons (4 ounces) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 cup (7-1/2 ounces) packed light brown sugar
1 large egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup buttermilk
FILLING
3/4 cup (5-1/4 ounces) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
1/4 cup water
3 large egg whites
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
MAKE THE CAKES:
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spritz the pan(s) or pan wells with baking spray.
Whisk the cocoa powder with the boiling water in a small bowl until the powder is completely incorporated, with no lumps remaining. Set aside.
Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together in a medium bowl. Set aside.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and brown sugar together for 2 to 3 minutes on medium speed, until fluffy and pale beige. Reduce the mixer speed to low and add the egg, mixing thoroughly, and then the vanilla.
Add the dissolved cocoa powder and stir for 30 seconds until fully combined. Add a third of the flour mixture, stirring until just combined, then half the buttermilk. Repeat with a third more flour, the remaining buttermilk, and then the final portion of flour.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan, filling each well half full if using a canoe pan or muffin tin. Save any remaining batter for a second batch.
Bake until the cakes are puffy and dry on top and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean—8 to 10 minutes for canoe shapes, 13 to 15 minutes for muffin tins or mini loaf pans, and 18 to 20 minutes for 8-inch square metal baking pans or hot dog pans. Timing may vary, so watch carefully.
Cool the cakes in the pan for 10 minutes on a wire rack; they will shrink and pull away from the sides of the pan. Then line the rack with waxed paper and spritz the paper lightly with baking spray. Invert the cake pan to turn the cakes out onto the rack. Cool completely before cutting into small loaf shapes (if using a loaf or hot dog pan) and filling.
MAKE THE FILLING:
In a small, high-sided saucepan, stir the granulated sugar, corn syrup, and water together over medium-low heat just until the sugar has fully dissolved and the liquid no longer feels granular. Clip a candy thermometer to the side of the pan and bring the liquid to a boil without stirring. Continue to heat until the sugar syrup reaches 235°F to 240°F (soft-ball stage).
Meanwhile, using the stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites on medium speed just until soft peaks form. Just before the sugar syrup reaches soft-ball stage, restart the mixer on low speed. When the syrup reaches temperature, drizzle it into the egg whites.
Increase the mixer speed to medium-high and whip for 5 to 7 minutes, until the filling is thick, shiny, and white, forming stiff peaks. Add the vanilla and stir for 15 seconds to incorporate.
ASSEMBLE THE CAKES:
Slice each cooled cake in half lengthwise, then spread evenly with filling. (If you’re feeling fancy, you can pipe it, but a mini spatula works just fine.) Reassemble into a filled sandwich and serve.
Store the filled cakes in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 3 days.