A lot of this book’s development consisted of me complaining about how to make each snack look as identical as possible to its store-bought counterpart, and I apologize to everyone who’s heard me whine. I’ve also got to give thanks to fellow recipe developer Amber Bracegirdle, who came up with the inventive shaping solution you see below. I might complain a lot, but I also listen to great ideas!
YIELD: about 3 dozen filled pretzels
TOTAL TIME: 3 hours, including dough rising time
DIFFICULTY: 4
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: food processor
CHEESE FILLING
3 ounces (about 3/4 cup) shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
1 ounce (about 1/4 cup) crumbled feta cheese
2 teaspoons heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon mustard powder
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
PRETZELS
1-1/2 cups (6⅜ ounces) bread
flour 1 teaspoon packed light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon instant yeast (not active dry or rapid-rise)
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup warm water
POACHING LIQUID
4 cups (1 quart) water
1/4 cup baked soda (see page 12)
1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar
TOPPING
1 large egg whisked with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash
1 tablespoon pretzel salt or coarse sea salt
MAKE THE CHEESE FILLING:
Blend the cheeses, cream, sugar, salt, mustard powder, and garlic powder in a food processor until a smooth paste forms. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate, covered, while you make the pretzels.
Stir the flour, brown sugar, yeast, and salt together in a large bowl, then stir in the warm water until a shaggy dough forms. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead for 5 minutes. The dough should feel smooth and satiny.
Spritz a large, clean bowl with cooking spray or grease lightly with vegetable oil and place the dough inside. Spritz or grease a piece of plastic wrap and cover the bowl. Let the dough rise for 1 hour, until doubled in size.
Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
Transfer the dough to a clean, unfloured work surface and press into a rough 8-inch square. Slice the rectangle into 8 strips that are each 1 inch wide. Stretch each strip slightly to 12 inches in length and cut into pieces a little more than 1 inch long. (You should get 10 to 11 pieces from each strip.)
Roll each dough piece into a thin rope (no more than 1/8 inch thick) and twist it into a ring (like a small bagel or oversized Cheerio) approximately 1 inch in diameter. Make sure the ring’s center hole is fairly large, since you’ll be stuffing it with cheese once it’s been baked. Place on the prepared baking sheet and repeat until all the dough has been turned into rings.
Freeze the rings for 1 hour.
POACH AND BAKE:
Preheat the oven to 375°F and prepare the poaching liquid. Bring the 4 cups water to a simmer in a large, wide saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the baked soda and brown sugar and stir until dissolved. The water will foam slightly.
Gently drop the rings into the simmering water, a few at a time, and poach for 10 seconds. Remove using a slotted spoon or metal skimmer and return the rings to the baking sheets. If any of the pretzel holes have closed up, stretch them gently to reopen (you’ll need to fill these holes with cheese, so make sure they’re fairly wide).
Brush the poached pretzels with the egg wash and sprinkle with the pretzel salt or sea salt. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the pretzels are fully hardened, dark brown, and glossy. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely.
FILL THE PRETZELS:
Scoop a small amount of chilled cheese filling onto a mini spatula and swipe it across the flat (bottom) side of a cooled pretzel so that it presses through the hole. Repeat to fill all the pretzels.
Combos are best eaten the day they’re made: after a night in the refrigerator, they tend to get soggy.