Though it’s rarely called out in the name, chives are what make this particular potato chip so addictive for me. Like miniature, garlic-infused scallions, chives “blossom” with many-layered flavor that complements the somewhat basic taste of onion powder. And because dried chives are chunkier than the rest of the ingredients in the blend, it’s key to grind them down into powder along with the rest of the seasonings. If you don’t have a dedicated spice grinder (an old coffee grinder works wonders!), a mini food processor or even a manual mortar and pestle will do the trick.
YIELD: about 4 cups
TOTAL TIME: 1 hour
DIFFICULTY: 2
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: electric deep fryer (or a large pot and a candy/oil thermometer), mandoline or Japanese slicer, cut-resistant glove (recommended), spice grinder or mini food processor, heatproof tongs or a metal skimmer or mesh strainer
2 pounds (about 4 medium) Yukon Gold or russet potatoes
2 tablespoons buttermilk powder (see page 12)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon dried chives
1/4 teaspoon onion powder
1/4 teaspoon powdered sugar
1/8 teaspoon mustard powder
vegetable or canola oil for frying
PREPARE THE POTATOES:
Bring a 4-quart stockpot filled with water to a boil over high heat. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a kitchen towel.
Rinse and peel the potatoes, then slice 1/8 inch thick on a mandoline or Japanese slicer. (I recommend wearing a metal-mesh cut-resistant glove—not only does it allow you to handle the potato more securely, but it also lets you slice down to the last nubbin, leaving you with less food waste.)
Transfer half the slices to the boiling water and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Don’t overcook and let the potatoes fall apart; we’re just jump-starting the cooking process so the potatoes will fry golden instead of burning.
Gently remove the slices with heatproof tongs or a metal skimmer or mesh strainer, drain well in a colander, and transfer to the towel-lined baking sheet in a single layer. Pat dry with an additional towel. Repeat with the remaining potatoes.
Place the buttermilk powder, salt, chives, onion powder, sugar, and mustard powder in a spice grinder or mini food processor and whir for 10 to 15 seconds to blend evenly. Set aside.
Note: The potato slices and spice mixture can be prepared a day in advance. Slice the potatoes but don’t boil them, and refrigerate them overnight in cold water to cover, and keep the spice mixture in an airtight container.
FRY AND SEASON THE CHIPS:
Heat at least 2 inches of vegetable or canola oil to 350°F in an electric deep fryer or large, high-sided pot. Line a baking sheet with paper towels and an upside-down wire cooling rack (see Deep Frying 101, page 188).
Pour the spice blend into a gallon-size zip-top bag.
Add the potato slices in batches to the hot oil and fry until golden brown. Frying time will vary depending on your equipment, so watch carefully.
Remove the chips with heatproof tongs or a metal skimmer or mesh strainer. Drain the chips on the lined baking sheet for about 1 minute, then place in the zip-top bag, seal, and shake lightly to distribute the spices. Remove from the bag and repeat with the remaining potato slices.
Serve warm or at room temperature; these chips are best eaten the day they’re fried.
WHY ARE WE BOILING OUR CHIPS?
Every potato is a waterlogged vessel of starchy liquid just waiting to escape. The more of this liquid we can get out of the potato before we fry it, the crisper the final chip will be. For thicker chips (such as seasoned waffle fries, page 165), a low-temperature fry kick-starts the process, but whisper-thin potato chips like these would burn before the ideal amount of starchy water was expelled. A dip in boiling water is safer and leaves us with a golden chip.