BBQ Potato Chips

Not all BBQ potato chips are created equal. There are the anemic, barely-dusted pale chips in bargain bags, and then there are the spicy, crimson, liberally coated chips that really deliver on the BBQ flavor. For me, any bag that says “mesquite” is the one I’ll be pulling off the shelf—something about that extra smoke brings out the sweetness I crave in BBQ, and if it’s on a kettle-cooked chip, it’s a double win.

For this recipe, look for pimentón—Spanish smoked paprika—at the grocery store. It’s got a deeply smoky taste that’s the best approximation of mesquite out there.

YIELD: about 4 cups

TOTAL TIME: 1 hour

DIFFICULTY: 2

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: electric deep fryer (or a large pot and a candy/oil thermometer), mandoline or Japanese slicer, cut-resistant glove (recommended), spice grinder or mini food processor, heatproof tongs or a metal skimmer or mesh strainer

2 pounds (about 4 medium) Yukon Gold or russet potatoes

2 tablespoons smoked paprika

1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar

2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons chili powder

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon onion powder

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

canola or vegetable oil for frying

PREPARE THE POTATOES:

Bring a 4-quart stockpot filled with water to a boil over high heat. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a kitchen towel.

Rinse and peel the potatoes, then slice 1/8 inch thick on a mandoline or Japanese slicer. (I recommend wearing a metal-mesh cut-resistant glove—not only does it allow you to handle the potato more securely, but it also lets you slice down to the very nubbin, leaving you with less food waste.)

Transfer half the slices to the boiling water and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Don’t overcook and let the potatoes fall apart; we’re just jump-starting the cooking process so the potatoes will fry golden instead of burning.

Gently remove the slices with heatproof tongs or a metal skimmer or mesh strainer, drain well in a colander, and transfer to the towel-lined baking sheet in a single layer. Pat dry with an additional towel. Repeat with the remaining potato slices.

Place the paprika, sugar, salt, chili powder, garlic powder, onion powder, and pepper in a spice grinder or mini food processor and whir for 10 to 15 seconds to blend evenly. Set aside.

Note: The potato slices and spice mixture can be prepared a day in advance. Slice the potatoes but don’t boil them, and refrigerate them overnight in cold water to cover, and keep the spice mixture in an airtight container.

FRY AND SEASON THE CHIPS:

Heat at least 2 inches of vegetable or canola oil to 350°F in an electric deep fryer or large, high-sided pot. Line a baking sheet with paper towels and an upside-down wire cooling rack (see Deep Frying 101, page 188).

Pour the spice blend into a gallon-size zip-top bag.

Add the potato slices in batches to the hot oil and fry until golden brown. Frying time will vary depending on your equipment, so watch carefully.

Remove the chips with heatproof tongs or a metal skimmer or mesh strainer. Drain the chips on the prepared baking sheet for about 1 minute, then place in the zip-top bag, seal, and shake lightly to distribute the spices. Remove the chips from the bag and repeat with the remaining potato slices.

Serve warm or at room temperature; these chips are best eaten the day they’re fried.