Chocolate Éclair Bars

I’m a cookbook junkie. I read ’em like novels and, though I don’t get to try as many recipes as I’d like, I file everything away for future inspiration. And thanks to Momofuku Milk Bar’s recent cookbook, I realized how I could make Good Humor Bar cake crumbs. Credit where credit’s due: the coating is a hybrid of genius chef Christina Tosi’s “milk crumb” (the flavored bits she adds to pie crusts and cookies) and streusel topping. It comes together quickly and can be made in almost any flavor.

YIELD: 6 bars

TOTAL TIME: 2 hours, plus 2 to 6 hours chilling time

DIFFICULTY: 4

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: ice cream maker, additional ice cream freezer bowl (optional—see Ice Cream 101, page 187), Popsicle molds, fine-mesh strainer

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM

1/2 cup (1-1/2 ounces) regular unsweetened cocoa powder

1/2 cup (1-1/2 ounces) dark or Dutch-process unsweetened cocoa powder (such as Hershey’s Special Dark)

1/2 cup (3-1/2 ounces) granulated sugar

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1-1/2 cups heavy cream

1-1/2 cups whole or reduced-fat milk

VANILLA ICE CREAM

1-1/2 cups light cream or whipping cream

1/4 cup (1-3/4 ounces) granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

CAKE CRUMBS

1/4 cup (1-1/18 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour

1/4 cup (3/4 ounce) powdered milk

1 tablespoon powdered sugar

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1-1/2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder

2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter

MAKE THE CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM BASE:

Sift the cocoa powders through a fine-mesh strainer into a small bowl, pressing on any lumps to break them up and push them through the mesh. Whisk the sugar and cornstarch into the sifted cocoa powder until the mixture is uniform in color.

Bring the cream and milk to a bare simmer in a 1-quart saucepan over medium-low heat. When the liquid starts to steam, whisk in the dry ingredients until completely incorporated. When the mixture comes to a simmer, whisk for 1 minute more, until thickened.

Transfer to a clean bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, until fully chilled (or use the quick-cool method, page 188).

MAKE THE VANILLA ICE CREAM BASE:

Bring the cream to a bare simmer in a 1-quart saucepan over medium-low heat, just until it is steaming and small bubbles form around the edges. Remove from the heat and whisk in the sugar and vanilla until the sugar is fully dissolved.

Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or until fully chilled (or use the quick-cool method, page 188).

FREEZE THE ICE CREAM:

When the ice cream bases are fully chilled, freeze the chocolate base in an ice cream maker following the manufacturer’s instructions. When it has completed its cycle and has soft-serve consistency, transfer the ice cream to a zip-top bag. Make an instant pastry bag by twisting shut (without sealing) and cutting a small triangle off one corner.

Squeeze the chocolate ice cream into 6 standard (3 to 4-ounce) Popsicle molds and freeze for at least 2 hours, until completely chilled.

When the chocolate bars are completely frozen, freeze the vanilla base in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

MAKE THE CAKE CRUMBS:

While the vanilla ice cream freezes, whisk the flour, powdered milk, powdered sugar, and cornstarch together in a bowl. Divide into 2 small bowls and add the 1-1/2 teaspoons cocoa powder to one of them.

Melt the butter over low heat in a small saucepan. Remove from the heat and cool slightly, then stir half the butter into the plain crumb mixture and the other half into the chocolate crumbs, mixing gently to form coarse cake clumps. Recombine the chocolate and vanilla crumbs into a single mixture.

ASSEMBLE THE BARS:

Line a baking sheet with waxed paper or parchment paper.

Remove the chocolate bars from the molds. Using an offset spatula or stiff rubber spatula, “frost” each one with a thin layer of vanilla ice cream to completely cover the chocolate. Sprinkle cake crumbs evenly over both sides, pressing gently to adhere.

Place the finished bars on the prepared baking sheet and cover with a sheet of plastic wrap. Freeze for at least 1 hour before serving.

Store the bars in the freezer in an airtight container up to a month.