As a Pennsylvanian, I’m proud to note that the first commercial pretzel factory opened in Lititz, Pennsylvania, in 1861—and yes, it’s still up and running; you can go visit the Julius Sturgis bakery today. Along with whoopie and shoofly pies, scrapple, and pickled eggs, soft pretzels are a culinary contribution from the Pennsylvania Dutch, and we should all tip our bonnets to them for this gift.
The traditional boil-and-bake method, also used for bagels to impart the glossy, chewy exterior we love so dearly, gives the soft pretzel its signature mahogany luster. While the Germans and Amish traditionally used lye for their pretzels, baked soda (see page 12) makes for a safer kitchen alternative.
YIELD: 12 pretzels
TOTAL TIME: 2-1/2 hours, including dough rising time
DIFFICULTY: 2
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: pastry or pizza cutter
PRETZELS
3 cups (12-3/4 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
1-1/2 teaspoons instant yeast (not active dry or rapid-rise)
1 cup warm water
1/4 cup vegetable oil
POACHING LIQUID
1/2 cup baked soda (see page 12)
2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
8 cups (2 quarts) water
TOPPING
1 large egg whisked with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash pretzel salt, for sprinkling
MAKE THE DOUGH:
For the pretzel dough, whisk the flour, brown sugar, and yeast together in a large bowl to break down any lumps. Stir in the warm water and vegetable oil until a soft dough forms.
Knead the dough on a floured surface for about 3 minutes, until satiny smooth. Spritz a large, clean bowl with cooking spray or grease lightly with vegetable oil and place the dough inside. Spritz or grease a piece of plastic wrap and cover the bowl. Let the dough rise for 1 hour, until doubled in size.
Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
Turn the risen dough out onto a clean, unfloured surface and press gently into an 18 by 10-inch rectangle. Using a pastry or pizza cutter, cut parallel to the short (10-inch) side into 12 dough strips, each approximately 1-1/2 inches wide.
Roll each strip into an 18-inch rope. Twist into a pretzel shape by bringing the ends up to form a “U” shape, twisting the sides of the U twice around each other, then bringing the ends back down and pressing gently onto the base of the U.
Place the pretzels on the prepared baking sheets and cover loosely with flour-sack towels or fresh sheets of sprayed plastic wrap. Let rise for another 30 minutes.
POACH AND BAKE:
Preheat the oven to 375°F and prepare the poaching liquid. Bring the 8 cups water to a simmer in a large, wide saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the baked soda and brown sugar and stir until dissolved. The water will foam slightly.
Gently drop the pretzels into the simmering water, a few at a time, and poach for 15 seconds. Use a slotted spoon or metal skimmer to flip the pretzels once halfway through for even poaching and to lift out and drain before returning them to the baking sheets.
Brush the poached ropes with the beaten egg wash. Sprinkle with pretzel salt, if they’ll be eaten fresh. Don’t sprinkle with salt if you plan to freeze and reheat the pretzels.
If baking to freeze, bake for about 12 to 13 minutes, until the pretzels are just golden brown and glossy. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely. If baking to eat fresh, extend the baking time by 2 to 3 minutes for a deeper brown.
To freeze, place the cooled baked pretzels on a baking sheet and freeze flat for 1 hour, then transfer to a sealed container or freezer bag for more compact storage. To reheat, brush the frozen pretzels lightly with water and sprinkle with pretzel salt before heating in a 375°F oven or toaster oven for 3 minutes, until warmed.
The pretzels can be frozen for up to 3 months. Eat freshly baked salted pretzels the same day they’re made.