Long before we knew about gluten intolerance, many people knew that they could eat crisp meringues and chewy macaroons without negative repercussions. What unites the two is that the base for both is egg whites.
For meringues, the whites are stiffly beaten and strengthened with sugar before the additions are folded in. Macaroons are somewhat different. Classic French macarons (with only one letter “o”) are similar to meringues but also include almond meal. However, our all-American macaroons are a category that includes any myriad cookies bound by egg white—from ground cashews to coconut.
While most American recipes for meringues are rather plain and just involve folding ingredients into the frothy matrix, classic French cooking includes many meringue forms that are fancier and make great additions to Christmas collections. You’ll find recipes for both in this chapter.
The key to all the recipes in this chapter is properly handling the egg whites. Start the process by washing your hands, since any grease on hands that the egg whites touch can harm the meringue. Crack the egg gently in the center on a flat surface such as your counter, not on the edge of the bowl. Pull apart the two halves, holding them over the bowl. Move the yolk from shell to shell until almost no white remains attached to the yolk.
While separating the eggs, place each white in a separate small bowl, and then transfer to the large bowl of egg whites. This ensures that a bit of yolk does not ruin a whole bowl of egg whites. (The yolk contains fat and will keep the whites from foaming.) If the yolk breaks, place whatever contents remain in the shell into the bowl with the yolks, and do not attempt to extricate more egg white from that particular egg.
Allow the egg whites to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before beating. This enables the maximum amount of air to be absorbed and will provide the greatest volume. To hasten the process, place the bowl of whites in a larger bowl of warm water for a few minutes, stirring once or twice.
The bowl used for beating must be absolutely clean and dry. Any trace of fat or grease may prevent egg whites from reaching their full volume or even creating foam. It’s best to rinse the bowl and beaters with vinegar or lemon to make sure not a trace of fat remains. The best bowl for beating egg whites is a copper bowl, as the copper ions bind to the egg and will stabilize the beaten whites. The next best choice is a stainless steel or glass bowl. Plastic bowls tend to absorb fat from other dishes, even if the bowl has been very well cleaned. Egg whites can also react with metal ions from an aluminum bowl. The ions may form dark particles that can give the beaten egg whites a grayish color.
Start by beating the egg whites at moderately slow speed until they are foaming, about 2 minutes. Gradually increase the speed to fast, and continue until soft peaks form. In most dessert recipes, a few tablespoons of sugar are sprinkled over the meringue, and then beating is continued to form stiff peaks and a glossy surface. Here are some tips for marvelous meringues:
• Adding an acid ingredient will help stabilize the foam of beaten egg whites. Cream of tartar, lemon juice, and salt will help keep the whites smooth and foamy. Add them after you have beaten the whites until they are frothy. While the acid does stabilize the foamy whites, it can actually slow down the foaming process. Continue to beat until soft peaks form. Use 1/8 teaspoon of cream of tartar for each 2 to 3 egg whites.
• Do not let your whipped egg whites or foam sit for very long before folding in other ingredients. Within minutes the foam will slowly begin to shrink or separate.
• To salvage over-beaten egg whites, whip in a tablespoon or two of unbeaten egg white.
• Make sure sugar is completely dissolved in the beating process or the meringue will be gritty.
Note: Unless otherwise noted in the recipe, store these cookies by keeping them in an airtight container, layered between sheets of waxed paper or parchment, at room temperature for up to 5 days.
