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Local LifeAn Afternoon in the Bergmannkiez

One of Berlin’s most charismatic neighbourhoods, the Bergmannkiez in gentrified western Kreuzberg is named for its main shopping strip, the Bergmannstrasse, which is chock-a-block with people-watching cafes and indie shops and boutiques. Nearby Tempelhof Airport saw its finest hour during the 1948–49 Berlin Blockade and is now a vast urban park. Above it all ‘soars’ the Kreuzberg hill, Berlin’s highest natural elevation and a wonderful summertime play zone.

Getting There

The Bergmannkiez is in the western part of Kreuzberg.

To start the itinerary, get off at Gneisenaustrasse (U7). When you’ve finished, Mehringdamm station (U7) is closest.

1Marheineke Markthalle

Thanks to a substantial renovation, the historic Marheineke Markthalle ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.meine-markthalle.de; Marheinekeplatz; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat; bGneisenaustrasse) has traded its grungy 19th-century charm for bright and modern digs. Its aisles now brim with vendors plying everything from organic sausages to handmade cheeses, artisanal honey and other delicious bounty.

2Colours

Vintage fans love Colours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %030-694 3348; www.kleidermarkt.de; Bergmannstrasse 102, 1st fl; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-7pm Sat; bMehringdamm), a huge loft of used clothing going back to the 1960s and with a smaller selection of new street- and club-wear threads, all priced by the kilo. Enter via the courtyard.

3Chamissoplatz

With its ornate townhouses, cobbled streets, old-timey lanterns and even an octagonal pissoir, Chamissoplatz ( GOOGLE MAP ; bPlatz der Luftbrücke) looks virtually unchanged since the late 19th century, which is why this square is often used as a film set. An organic farmers market takes place on Saturdays.

4Tempelhofer Park

Decomissioned Tempelhof Airport, which so gloriously handled the Berlin Airlift of 1948–49, has been repurposed as a vast untamed urban park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %030-200 037 441; www.thf-berlin.de; enter via Oderstrasse, Tempelhofer Damm or Columbiadamm; tours adult/concession €13/9; hsunrise to sunset, tours in English 1.30 & 3.30pm Wed & Fri, 3pm Sat, 2pm Sun; bParadestrasse, Boddinstrasse, Leinestrasse). It's a wonderfully noncommercial, creative, open-sky space with a beer garden, art installations, urban gardening, barbecue areas and other fun zones. Enter from Columbiadamm.

5Luftbrückendenkmal

The Luftbrückendenkmal (Berlin Airlift Memorial; GOOGLE MAP ; Platz der Luftbrücke; bPlatz der Luftbrücke) outside the former Tempelhof Airport honours those who participated in keeping the city fed and free during the 1948–49 Berlin Blockade. The trio of spikes represents the three air corridors used by the Western Allies, while the plinth bears the names of the 79 people who died in this colossal effort.

6Viktoriapark

Take a break in this rambling park draped over the 66m-high Kreuzberg hill, home to a vineyard, a waterfall and a pompous memorial commemorating Napoleon’s 1815 defeat. In summer, laid-back locals arrive to chill, tan or enjoy beers at Golgatha ( GOOGLE MAP ; %030-785 2453; www.golgatha-berlin.de; Dudenstrasse 48-64; hfrom 9am Apr-Sep; bPlatz der Luftbrücke, dYorckstrasse), the park’s classic beer garden.

7Curry 36

Day after day, night after night, a motley crowd – cops, cabbies, queens, office jockeys, savvy tourists etc – wait their turn at Curry 36 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-251 7368; www.curry36.de; Mehringdamm 36; snacks €2-6; h9am-5am; bMehringdamm), a top Currywurst purveyor that's been frying 'em up since 1981.