Local LifeA Leisurely Saunter Through Schöneberg
Schöneberg flaunts a mellow middle-class identity but has a radical pedigree rooted in the squatter days of the ‘80s. Its multifaceted character nicely unfolds as you stroll from bourgeois Viktoria-Luise-Platz through Berlin’s original gay quarter and along streets packed tight with boho cafes and smartly curated indie boutiques, to wind up at ethnically flavoured Hauptstrasse.
Getting There
Schöneberg is wedged between Kurfürstendamm and Kreuzberg.
This itinerary is bookended by two stations: Viktoria-Luise-Platz (U4) and Kleistpark (U7).
1Viktoria-Luise-Platz
Schöneberg’s prettiest square is a symphony of flower beds, big old trees, a lusty fountain and benches where locals swap gossip or watch kids at play. It's framed by inviting cafes and 19th-century townhouses; note the ornate facades at numbers 7, 12 and 12a.
2Nollendorfplatz & the 'Gay Village'
Nollendorfplatz has been the gateway to Berlin's historic gay quarter since the 1920s, when Christopher Isherwood penned Berlin Stories (which inspired Cabaret) while living at Nollendorfstrasse 17. Rainbow flags still fly proudly above bars and businesses, especially along Motzstrasse and Fuggerstrasse. A memorial plaque at the U-Bahn station commemorates Nazi-era GLBT victims.
3Farmers Market
If it’s Wednesday or Saturday morning, you’re in luck because ho-hum Winterfeldtplatz erupts with farm-fresh fare. Along with seasonal produce you’ll find handmade cheeses, cured meats, olives, local honey and plenty more staples and surprises. Saturday also has artsy-craftsy stalls.
4Chocophile Alert
Winterfeldt Schokoladen (
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%030-2362 3256; www.winterfeldt-schokoladen.de; Goltzstrasse 23; 
h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, noon-7pm Sun; 
bNollendorfplatz) stocks a vast range of international handmade gourmet chocolates, all displayed gallery-style in the original oak fixtures of a 19th-century pharmacy that doubles as a cafe.
5Boutique-Hopping
Goltzstrasse and its extension Akazienstrasse teem with indie boutiques selling vintage threads, slinky underwear and handmade jewellery, exotic teas and cooking supplies. No high-street chain in sight! Casual eateries and cafes abound.
6Double Eye
Javaholics cherish the award-winning espresso of Double Eye (
GOOGLE MAP
; Akazienstrasse 22; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat; bEisenacher Strasse), which is why no one minds the inevitable queue.
7Möve im Felsenkeller
An artist hang-out since the 1920s, this cosy pub (
GOOGLE MAP
; %030-781 3447; Akazienstrasse 2; h4pm-1am; bEisenacher Strasse) was where Jeffrey Eugenides penned his 2002 Pulitzer Prize–winning novel, Middlesex. A stuffed seagull dangling from the ceiling keeps an eye on patrons seeking inspiration from eight beers on tap.
8Hauptstrasse
Chic boutiques give way to grocers and kebab shops along multiculti Hauptstrasse. The Turkish supermarket Öz-Gida (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.ozgida.de; Hauptstrasse 16; bKleistpark, Eisenacher Strasse) is known citywide for its olive selection, cheese spreads and quality meats. David Bowie and Iggy Pop shared a pad at Hauptstrasse 155.