SHAVING: THE ORIGINAL MEN’S FACIAL

Shaving is the cornerstone of a man’s grooming routine, and maintaining facial hair (or the lack thereof) has been a thing for thousands of years. Around 300 B.C., Alexander the Great required his soldiers to shave their faces clean so enemies couldn’t pull their beards in battle. In effect, he set in motion centuries of shaving obsession.

Shaving every day can feel like a chore, and lots of guys think that if they grow a beard, it will be less maintenance than shaving. Spoiler: it’s not—but more on that later. The bottom line is that whether you choose to be clean shaven, bearded, or somewhere in between, you’re going to spend time dealing with your facial hair. Instead of making it something you begrudge, make it part of your self-care routine. You’re already doing it, so here’s how to make it an experience you actually look forward to.

The Great Razor Debate

Opinions are strong over what makes the best razor, but the one for you is whatever feels best on your skin. Shaving should not be something that leaves you with a face covered in bandages. Finding a razor that you can use every day with minimal irritation takes trial and error. To start, you need to know the three main kinds of razors.

Multi-Blade Cartridge Razors

Disposable cartridge razors are easy to use, fairly inexpensive, and widely available. These days, you don’t even have to remember to buy them—they show up at your door. Most of these razors have multiple blades, which are thought to give a closer shave. Some people say the more blades on a razor, the more likely you’ll get ingrown hairs, since they shave too close.

Single-Blade Safety Razors

In recent years, the old-school single-blade safety razor has come back. Proponents claim they give the best shave for even sensitive skin and help prevent razor bumps and ingrown hairs. They don’t cut as close to the skin as a multi-blade razor, which makes it easier for hair to grow back without getting caught. The downside is that “safety” is relative; they’re easy to cut yourself with and take some time to get used to.

Electric Razor

The biggest draw of an electric razor is the ease of use. Most are designed to shave your skin while it’s dry; they’re quick, easy to travel with, and pretty idiot-proof. They may be good for men with sensitive skin because they can be gentler than a classic razor. The downside is they are expensive and you still need to remember to switch out the blades.

How to Shave at Home

Whether your dad taught you how to shave or not, more guys than you’d think say they don’t actually know how to shave.

Step 1: Open Up Your Pores

Splash hot water on your face or press a hot towel to your beard area (soak the towel in hot water or zap it in the microwave for a few seconds). Better yet, get in the shower. Hot water and steam will open your pores and soften coarse facial hair.

Step 2: Scrub Before You Shave

Dead skin cells can clog the blades of your razor and lead to nicks, so exfoliate before you shave. This also helps hairs stand up so they can be shaved more effectively.

Step 3: Apply a Pre-Shave Oil

Applying an oil before shaving cream helps the razor glide across your skin more easily. If a razor pulls too much, it can lead to razor burn.

Step 4: Use a Moisturizing Shaving Cream

Look for a shaving cream with a rich lather and moisturizing ingredients, which will help cut down on post-shave irritation.

Step 5: Make Sure Your Blade Is Sharp

Dull razors lead to cuts and razor burn because they have to work harder. Make sure your razor is always sharp (most cartridge razors should be changed after about three uses).

Step 6: Shave in the Direction Your Hair Grows

This is called “with the grain.” Going against the grain leads to more ingrown hairs and razor bumps.

Step 7: Wash Your Face with Cold Water

Rinsing everything off with cold water helps calm your skin after the irritation of shaving and closes pores.

Step 8: Finish with Moisturizer

Apply a post-shave lotion or moisturizer to help seal everything in. It will help calm down your skin and support your skin’s natural protective barrier.

Why Get a Barber Shave?

Before Mr. King Gillette (yes, that’s his real name) invented the at-home disposable razor in 1895, the only option men had was to go to the barber. You had to plan in advance and really commit, since a barber shave takes around an hour. But when you’re trusting a guy to hold a blade that close to your carotid artery, you don’t want to rush him.

These days, there’s no reason to get a barber shave, except that it feels damn good. The experience of getting a barber shave is something you can’t get at home. Not to mention it’s the perfect way to force yourself to unplug even for a few minutes. If you’re going to get a barber shave before a special occasion like a wedding, do it the day before in case there is any irritation. Better yet, get one just because—no special occasion needed.

SO YOU DON’T WANT TO SHAVE…

Just because you have a beard doesn’t mean you’re off the hook for maintenance.

• Moisturize It: Hair can become scraggly and the skin underneath can become dry. Massage a moisturizer into the skin underneath and use a beard balm to keep hair hydrated.
• Wash It: Beards are way dirtier than you think. Wash your beard with a beard wash often to cleanse the hair and the skin underneath.
• Trim It: Invest in an electric trimmer with multiple length settings. To keep the shape of the beard, trim it often so you don’t head into ZZ Top territory.
• Shape It: See a barber every three to four months. They can freshen up the lines of your beard and trim out the bulk.
• Shave (Some of) It: To maintain the lines of your beard, shave your neck and cheeks (and anywhere else there are errant hairs).

SHOPPING LIST

• Where to Go: When you’re choosing a razor, think about how you’re going to get refills. Choose something you can get easily. For shaving creams and aftershave, most men’s skincare brands will also have shaving products. A good place to start is a brand you already like.
• How Much to Spend: Thanks to online shaving companies, razor refills don’t have to set you back a lot. Invest in the best quality razor you can afford and save money on the accoutrements like shaving cream.
• How to Know If Something Is Good: If you’re looking for a beard trimmer, ask a friend with a spectacular beard or read online reviews. Better yet, ask your barber since he probably does a lot of shaves.
• Buy for Your Skin Type: Before buying a new shaving product, know what type of skin you have. If you’re prone to breakouts or irritation, use something for sensitive skin or with cooling ingredients like aloe. If you’re a man of color, look for brands specifically formulated for your skin, which will help minimize ingrown hairs.
• Cheaper Isn’t Always Better: Cheap razors get dull faster and sometimes sacrifice shave quality for price. Don’t break the bank, but go for something because it makes your skin feel good, not because the price is the lowest.