Once remote from the City of London, these premier residential districts and former villages were favoured for their healthy air well away from the pollution of early London.
Today they retain their exclusivity with their grand Georgian houses and leafy squares that have attracted the wealthy and have become home to several embassies and consulates. Kensington gained its fashionable reputation in the late 17th century when the Royal Family moved to Kensington Palace. Popular with sightseers and shoppers is South Kensington, where there are museums containing some of the best collections of arts and crafts, science and natural history in the world. Next is Knightsbridge, an even more exclusive address, whose affluent residents use the world-famous Harrods department store as their local shop. Most visitors are happy just to gaze at the richness and variety of the stock, the lavish interiors and tempting food halls. To the south is the more bohemian Chelsea. Still a classy and incredibly expensive area in which to live, it is still synonymous with ‘London’s Swinging 60s’ and popular for shopping in the lively King’s Road.
APSLEY HOUSE
Apsley House, also known as the Wellington Museum, was the London home of Arthur Wellesley, first Duke of Wellington, from 1829 until his death in 1852. Wellington was the greatest soldier off his day, achieving major military successes in India, Spain and Portugal before crowning his career with the defeat of Napoleon at Waterloo in 1815.
The museum is divided into two parts. Collections of plates and china, magnificent table centrepieces, swords, medals and so on relate to the Duke’s adventures, and there is also an outstanding picture collection with 200 works by Spanish and Italian old masters. But, the most memorable piece is a heroic nude statue of Napoleon by Canova (commissioned by the Little Emperor himself) in which he is depicted as a god.
Map Reference 8E
149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner
020 7499 5676
Apr–Oct Wed–Sun 11–5 (last admission 4:30); Nov–Mar 11–4. Closed 24–26 Dec, 1 Jan
Moderate
Pizza on the Park (£), 11–13 Knightsbridge, 020 7235 7825
Hyde Park Corner
CHELSEA
One of London’s most fashionable suburbs in every sense, Chelsea was synonymous with both London’s ‘Swinging 60s’ and the late 1970s punk rock movement. The latter began at SEX, still a fashion boutique at 430 King’s Road. Today it is more classy though still lively and is best explored on foot.
HARRODS
Harrods is much more than just a shop: it is an internationally famous institution and even the most reluctant shopper should venture into its cathedral-like portals. The store began trading here in 1849 as a small, family-run grocery shop and by 1911 the present magnificent building was complete. Occupying over 1.8ha (4.5 acres), it is Britain’s biggest department store. Among the highlights are the stylish Food Halls. The Meat Hall is gloriously decorated with 1902 tiles, while the fresh-fish display is an extravaganza of the bounty of the sea.
Map Reference 6D
87–135 Brompton Road
020 7730 1234
Mon–Sat 10–8, Sun 11:30–6
Variety in store (£–£££)
Knightsbridge
No one admitted wearing scruffy clothes, tank tops (men), short shorts or cycling shorts. Backpacks to be left in lockers. Charge for toilets