CHAPTER 1

The Lebanese Larder

Lebanon has recently garnered a flattering reputation for its cuisine from all corners of the globe; it is remarkable that such a small country (with a population of around 4 million people) brings so much attention worldwide to its food. The good news is that most Lebanese cooking uses simple, everyday ingredients found in any market. The spice rack in a traditional Lebanese kitchen is also very modest and consists of basic, well-known spices. This section sheds some light on the few specific Lebanese staples, such as bulgur, and the more exotic items such as mastic or sumac. These are easily found in all ethnic or Mediterranean markets or through online food purveyors.

BREAD, GRAINS, PASTA, AND RICE

Breads

The overwhelming majority of bread produced in Lebanon in small or medium-size commercial ovens is the pita bread known in the West. It differs from Western pita bread in that it is much larger and thinner (12–14 inches wide and very thin). It comes in white or dark flour. The other size available is about 9 inches wide. There is also a cocktail size available, perfect for mezzes (cocktail parties), in which the tiny breads get stuffed and displayed on large trays.

Pita bread always needs to be kept in a plastic bag to prevent drying; however, it freezes very well. Buying several bags and keeping them stored in the freezer is a good idea. They will easily defrost at room temperature.

Bulgur (Burghul)

There are two main types of bulgur: fine bulgur, used to make kibbeh or tabbouleh salad, and coarse bulgur, used to make pilafs. These types of bulgur are sold numbered, with the fine variety bearing numbers ranging from #1 to #2 and the coarse #3 to #4. In addition, bulgur can be dark-colored or yellow-colored. In Lebanon, some cooks like to pick different colors for different kibbeh, choosing yellow for pumpkin or fish kibbeh and dark for meat kibbeh. It is simply a matter of personal preference; I have seen both colors on display at Middle Eastern stores in the United States.

Cracked Wheat (Jreesh)

This is a fine cracked wheat. The difference between jreesh and bulgur #1 (both look similar) is that jreesh is not parboiled as bulgur but rather ground up into tiny pellets the size of fine bulgur (#1) or a bit coarser. Jreesh is popular in the south and is mixed with the dough of a bread called mishtah. Some bakeries in Beirut will make breakfast flatbreads (man’ooshe) with jreesh, advertising this fact on their menus. The flatbread made with jreesh looks speckled with brown dots and has a deeper, more rustic flavor than the flatbreads made with white flour only. Jreesh is also used in lieu of regular fine bulgur when making some types of kibbeh in some communities and in other Arab countries like Iraq.

Lebanese Couscous (Moghrabieh)

This is the Lebanese equivalent of couscous, and it is made with semolina. In Lebanon, moghrabieh comes from Maghreb, a word used to designate all countries in North Africa (as opposed to Mashriq, all countries in the Middle East). Some specialty shops in Lebanon provide it fresh; cooking it fresh involves steaming the grains by using a similar technique as the North African couscous. However, all exported moghrabieh is dry and needs to be parboiled for about five minutes in water, then cooked gradually in a flavorful broth, one ladle of broth at a time. It is sold dry in packages in the United States. In Lebanon, moghrabieh is also the name of a hearty casserole made with the actual moghrabieh grain and chicken (or meat). In some communities, couscous is made with wheat, bulgur, and water, and is called maftoul. This grain remains a regional one (handmade in some Syrian and Palestinian communities); however, I have found it imported in the United States at upscale kitchen stores. It cooks easily, just like rice, and has a distinct earthy taste; because it is handmade, the grains are uneven in size.

Short- and Long-Grain Rice

The two main types of rice used in the Lebanese kitchen are starchy short-grain and long-grain rice (such as American long-grain or Indian basmati). The starchy short-grain rice is preferred for stuffing veggies or making rice puddings, as the longer cooking time softens the grains considerably until they meld into the sauce. The long-grain rice is better suited for pilafs, such as the ground meat and spice pilaf served with turkey or chicken for holiday celebrations. The short-grain rice is imported from Italy, Egypt, or Turkey; the long-grain rice is the American long-grain rice or basmati.

Roasted Green Wheat (Freekeh)

Another grain worth exploring is roasted green wheat, or freekeh. Freekeh is an ancient grain that is experiencing a resurgence in popularity due to its extraordinary nutritional benefits and wonderful smoky taste. Freekeh is wheat that is picked while it is still green and then smoked. It exudes a wonderful aroma while it is cooking over the stove. It also has more minerals than all the other grains and is highly recommended for weight loss. Freekeh is sold in Middle Eastern stores and online, in bulk or in boxes. It needs to be rinsed carefully prior to cooking. Freekeh is offered in two main varieties: whole-grain and broken grain. If the whole-grain type is used, the cooking time must be increased by at least one-third and the amount of liquid increased as well.

Semolina (Smeed and Ferkha)

There are two main types of semolina that are used in the Lebanese kitchen: a coarse semolina and a fine semolina. If using the coarse semolina to make pastry, the pastry will be crumbly. Conversely, if using the fine one, it will hold together better, like regular flour. Coarse semolina is called smeed and fine semolina is called ferkha.

Semolina is a type of flour made from durum wheat. Durum wheat is a strong variety of wheat that has been cultivated in Lebanon for thousands of years (“durum” means “strong” in Latin). In fact, the Bekaa Valley in the country used to supply the Roman Empire with wheat, grapes, and other foods. The durum wheat used to make semolina is high in protein and low in gluten. Both grades of semolina are sold in all Middle Eastern markets, and in Latino, Greek, Turkish, Persian, or health-food stores in North America. If you are unable to find semolina, a good substitute is to use the American Cream of Wheat cereal (farina).

In Lebanon, semolina is sold everywhere and is used to make cakes (nammura, ma’amoul, kaak) and pastries, to thicken puddings (mamou-nieh, layali lubnan, basbusa, khabeesah, tamrieh, kellage), or as an ingredient in bread-making. Semolina flour is also used to make pasta.

Vermicelli (Sh’areeyeh)

Pasta in the Lebanese diet consists of vermicelli, always combined with rice for the traditional pilaf served with stews. The vermicelli is bought dry, fried in butter, and cooked with rice. Homemade pasta, sheesh barak (a type of tiny ravioli), is the other main pasta dish. Nowadays, most people buy this pasta frozen in the supermarkets to save time. It is not exported and may be replaced with an Italian filled pasta, such as tortellini. Finally, there is a type of pasta called ma’karoon, similar to the Italian gnocchi, that is prepared mainly in rural areas.

Wheat Berries

The wheat berries used in Lebanese cooking are dried wheat berries, which are available whole or shelled for a lighter or bleached version. The unpeeled wheat berries take about one hour to cook (or longer) and need to be soaked overnight. The shelled variety berry is also available in markets. It can be rinsed, placed in a pot with about six cups of water, and brought to a boil. The wheat berry can be boiled the day before and soaked in water covered with a towel. The next day, it is simmered for a while longer, until it is thoroughly cooked. This process reduces the cooking time somewhat. Conversely, the berries can simply be simmered in liquid for one hour or longer, until the grains are cooked.

PASTES, PASTRIES, SEASONINGS, SPICE MIXES, AND SWEETENERS

Carob Molasses (Dibs el Kharroub)

This is a thick syrup made by soaking milled carob pods in water and reducing the extracted liquid. The carob tree has a history of use dating back to ancient times. It is also known as Saint John’s bread, for it is said that John the Baptist survived in the desert by eating carob. In Lebanon, carob molasses was traditionally used as an alternative to sugar. Mixed with tahini, it is still eaten as a dessert called dibs be theeneh (see “Desserts” Chapter 7, under “Carob Molasses and Tahini”).

Pomegranate Molasses (Dibs al-Rumman)

Pomegranates thrive in Lebanon and this comes in handy in the mountains where citrus is difficult to grow (citrus grows mainly in the coastal areas). There are two main varieties of pomegranate trees: sour and sweet. The sour ones are used for molasses. The sweet pomegranates are just savored as a fruit or as a topping for pudding. The fruity and tangy flavor of pomegranate molasses is used in savory dishes, such as kebabs, turnovers, meat pies, stews, or kibbeh stuffing. A touch of pomegranate molasses is sometimes added to dips, such as the eggplant dip baba ghanouj or red pepper dip (muhammara). It can be diluted with water and mixed with olive oil to make a salad dressing. Pomegranate molasses should not be substituted for other types of molasses, such as carob or grape.

Grape Molasses (Dibs el Enab)

A friend of my mother’s, Milady, who lives by herself in her family’s home in the mountains in Lebanon, invited me over one day. She offered me some of her homemade grape molasses for breakfast with some pita bread. It tasted just like toffee! You can purchase this heavenly sweet food at Arab and specialty shops in North America, as it is a food also made in Turkey, Greece, and Cyprus. The best grape molasses is a golden color and is called “whipped” (madroub). Many desserts (puddings) and cookies are still made using grape molasses instead of sugar in rural areas.

Halvah (Halawa)

Halvah is called halawa in Lebanon and is one of the most popular candies or confections. It is sold in every remote neighborhood market, either plain or with pistachios or chocolate swirled into it. It is a mixture of tahini and syrup. In Lebanon, most kids at one time or another (especially in past generations) had halawa roll-ups to tide over their hunger while in school. Even now, I am told, halawa is a breakfast of choice among inmates.

There are many manufacturers of halvah in Lebanon, with some main ones established in certain cities. Halvah is a very versatile food; it can be incorporated into custards, ice creams, cookie dough, breads, or even beverages. Its distinct sweet tahini taste is one that elicits instant love or rejection.

Kataifi, Kadaifi, or Osmalliyeh

This pastry is sold in North America under the name kataifi orkadaifi. In Lebanon, it is called osmalliyeh and is available fresh at specialty shops or frozen at supermarkets. This is the pastry that is used to make hundreds of Arabic pastries. It is available at some specialty supermarkets, at all Greek and Middle Eastern groceries, and online. It comes frozen in one-pound packages or dried in coils (not frozen), imported from Turkey. Lately, it has been made available in mainstream supermarkets as well. If you buy it frozen, it needs to thaw overnight in the fridge before using.

Lamb Confit (Awarma)

Every Lebanese older than eighty who lived in a mountain village remembers making awarma for sustenance throughout the year. Awarma is lamb cooked in its own fat. Historically, the lamb was slaughtered on a special occasion, and after the main meat sections were distributed to the community, awarma was made with the leftover bits. Fat was taken from the lamb tail and the bits of lamb were added to the fat and cooked, then preserved in a jar for several months. One tablespoon of awarma was sufficient to flavor any food, be it a stew, stuffing for kibbeh, or turnovers.

It is still an economical way to add meat flavor to a dish. As lamb tail fat is not sold in North America, one option is to collect all the lamb fat from different cuts and store it in the freezer. When needed, remove a small quantity, fry it with onions (or ground meat), and add it to a soup or stew. This recipe is from Rabih, a young butcher in Beirut: Melt one pound of lamb fat over very low heat in a deep pot. Sprinkle one pound of lean ground lamb with one teaspoon allspice and add it to the pot. Let the lamb cook in its own fat for forty-five minutes over very low heat, adding one teaspoon of salt to it halfway through, stirring it constantly and watching so that the meat does not burn. Transfer the mixture to a sterilized jar and store in the refrigerator for six months.

Mahlab Cherry Spice (Mahlab)

Mahlab is a spice used frequently in Lebanese baking. Nearly all specialty breads add it for that elusive flavor (a mix between bitter almond and nutmeg). It is available in all ethnic stores, as it is also used by the Greeks, Turks, and Persians, among others, and is available in two forms: kernels (beige-colored seeds) or powder.

Mahlab is actually extracted from the pits of a certain variety of black cherries (Prunus mahaleb, also known as the Saint Lucie cherry). I prefer to get the kernels and grind them in a coffee grinder when needed, as the powder tends to go rancid fairly quickly (within a year), developing an unbearable putrid smell.

Mastic (Meskeh)

Mastic or meskeh is a flavoring used in Lebanese cuisine in both savory and sweet dishes. It is added to the beef shawarma marinade (shawarma refers to the process where meats are put on a spit and slow-grilled), or certain pilafs or stews. It is used with ice cream, jams, puddings, or holy bread. Mastic is fragrant, like musk. In the past it was used as a medicine, a breath freshener (in the sultan’s harem), and for reducing oral bacteria or gingivitis when chewed; it contains antioxidants.

Mastic is currently collected from the native trees that secrete it (it is a natural resin) in the island of Chios in Greece, and then dried and sold. In Lebanese grocery stores, mastic is always strategically placed by the cash register, bagged in tiny cellophane packages glued on a cardboard placard bearing the sign: True Greek brand (Yunaneh asleh). In North America, look for it in Arab, Greek, or Turkish stores or online (mastiha in Greek).

To use mastic, a small mortar and pestle is needed (preferably made with marble or stone). Grind a few pebbles (a tiny bit goes a long way) of mastic with a teaspoon of salt for a savory dish, or sugar for a sweet dish, until powdery (or it will never dissolve in the food!). You can also grind it using a rolling pin in between sheets of wax paper. Always keep your mastic in the fridge in a closed jar or bag.

Orange Blossom Water and Rose Water

The two main flavorings in Lebanese desserts, pastries, jams, confections, and sweet breads are rose water and orange blossom water. Rose water is the distilled water of rose petals of a certain type of rose,Rosa damascena (al-ward al-joory). Orange blossom water is distilled from the blossoms of a variety of oranges called Seville oranges (busfeyr). In addition to providing an exquisite and delicate flavor to sweets, these two waters have also been used to soothe mild burns or certain skin conditions. Both this rose variety and the Seville orange are cultivated in the United States. Artisan waters can be found in some markets or online.

Orchid Powder (Sahlab)

Sahlab is a white powder extracted from a variety of wild orchids found in large quantities in Turkey. Sahlab is not sold in North America. What is available instead is a sahlab mix that does not contain any real sahlab; instead, the sahlab mix uses starch, sugar, and flavoring. I have only found real sahlab in Turkey in the bazaars in Istanbul and Beirut, as well as other cities in the region. It is a rare ingredient. When added to ice cream, sahlab makes it famously chewy. It thickens puddings and drinks, and has an exotic flavor.

Phyllo Dough (Rkakat, Kellage, Baklawa)

This paper-thin pastry is available in every single Middle Eastern market and even in many main supermarkets. The only difficulty in handling it is the fact that it dries up rapidly and needs to be covered at all times while being handled. It is the dough that has been used for centuries for baklava and similar pastries from the edges of the Ottoman Empire all the way to the Persian Empire.

Southern Lebanese Spice Mix (Kammuneh)

A Southern Lebanese spice mix, kammuneh is added to bulgur, which turns it bright green. It is also blended with raw meat for frakeh, the Southern Lebanese style of kibbeh tartare. Kammuneh can also be combined with potatoes for a vegetarian potato kibbeh, or tomatoes for a tomato kibbeh plate. It is used in Southern Lebanese cuisine and is made of dried and fresh spices. Salam, a charming lady I met at the beauty salon, who told me she was from the south, brought me a sample one morning gathered by her mother. She said, “Just go out in the fields and gather anything you see or smell that is fragrant.” In her little pouch, her kammuneh had rose petals, wild marjoram, wild mint, basil, and sage; to complete the spice mixture, cumin powder, anise powder, dried mint, and red chili powder was added. There are no set rules as long as the mixture is heady and fragrant, and most of the herbs are wild. The addition of rose petals to a spice mix for meat (kibbeh) may seem strange, but it gives out the most tantalizing taste.

Sumac

Sumac is a wild bush that grows all over the Lebanese mountains; it can get quite tall (over six feet) and looks from a distance like clusters of red grapes with small seeds. Because citrus does not grow at the higher altitudes, it is an ideal way for mountain villagers (mountains constitute more than half of the Lebanese topography) to add a delightful sour and lemony taste to food. Along with great flavor, sumac is chock-full of health benefits as well. When buying sumac at a store, beware of the sumac that is bright red, as it is most likely dyed. Smell it immediately; it should have a lemony scent. If unable to source good sumac, replace it with lemon or a pinch of citric acid (sold in Middle Eastern stores in a white powder spice bag). Sumac is not only used to flavor fattoush salad dressing but is also one of the main components of zaatar mix. Sumac is also added to dozens of stews or kibbeh stuffings.

Tahini

Tahini is a paste obtained by crushing hulled white sesame seeds between two large stones. The word “tahini” is taken from the Arabic root verb meaning “to grind.”

There are various grades of tahini; the best are considered to be the lighter-colored or beige varieties. Tahini is a natural product and does not contain any additives or preservatives. It is considered by many to be a health food due to the abundance of its nutrients. A serving of tahini has eighty-nine calories and contains both carbohydrates and protein, and the fat in tahini is mostly healthy, with a high concentration of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Tahini boasts a large amount of beneficial minerals, such as copper and phosphorus, and vitamins, such as thiamine. Once opened, a jar of tahini has a shelf life of about six months. As the oil in the tahini tends to separate, a solution for this is to keep the jar upside down or stir the oil back into the paste prior to use.

Tahini has a subtle, nutty taste and is used in Middle Eastern countries the way mayonnaise or butter is traditionally used in the Western world. There are hundreds of dishes containing tahini, and it is present at almost every meal.