MISSION CONCEPCIÓN, SAN ANTONIO MISSIONS NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK
WHAT’S WHERE IN AUSTIN, SAN ANTONIO, AND THE HILL COUNTRY
Deep in the Heart of Texas
The subject of legends and lore, Texas has a reputation that has always preceded it. And as an icon of strength and swagger, Texas plays an essential part in the story of America. Filled with opportunistic cattle rustlers and hunky cowboys thundering off into the endless crimson sunset, the Texas of myth and movies is larger than life, hotter than hell, and rougher than a ride at the rodeo.
Deep in the heart of Central Texas is a region that will challenge all your assumptions with its distinct mix of friendly casualness, edgy creativity, discerning taste, and a strong inclination toward celebration. Each city and town offers its own incomparable mix of culture, food, music, and heritage, and plenty of festivals—from cultural to culinary, kites to kolaches—which give visitors numerous opportunities to experience life in Central Texas as an honorary Texan-for-a-day.
With roots stretching back to the 17th century, San Antonio (see chapter 2) is now home to over a million people. Its pedestrian-friendly downtown, the celebrated Alamo, historic Mission Trail, and bustling Riverwalk cluster together to give the city an intimate feeling that belies its size. A strong sense of cultural history pervades all, with San Antonio’s Native American origins, Spanish influences, and Mexican overtones zealously expressed in art, food, architecture, and festivals.
While San Antonio embodies something quintessentially Texan, people are fond of observing that Austin (see chapter 1) inhabits a category all its own. Austinites are an educated, energetic, and decidedly unconventional bunch, and while they tend to be less conservative than the rest of the state, their live-and-let-live attitude very much mirrors the overall spirit of Texas. Nightlife in Austin abounds, thanks to its internationally recognized live music scene, though acres of parks, bike trails, and gardens make recreational activities almost as popular.
The Hill Country (see chapter 3), easily accessible from either Austin or San Antonio, is the place to be if you really want to slow down and smell the bluebonnets. To drive the lazy, winding, rural roads past wineries and lavender fields, around limestone outcroppings, and through shady state parks is to experience carefree wanderlust at its most enjoyable. The region’s rustic towns are brimming with gourmet restaurants, antique and knickknack shops, and bed and breakfasts, and make pleasant stopovers or destinations unto themselves. Nearby and In Between (see here), several towns along I-35 make wonderful day trips for the thrill of area amusement parks or tubing along cool spring-fed Texas rivers.
The folks in Central Texas are passionate about living here, and their infectious enthusiasm begins with the land that they love, a land rich in both resources and beauty that has been fought over for centuries.
Natural Wonders
Though now divided into two major cities, many towns, and numerous communities, Central Texas shares a common natural history that has been ages in the making.
Based on fossils of fish and aquatic plants, and other clues dating from the Cretaceous period (65–144 million years ago), we know that the Central Texas region was once submerged under a shallow lake. At some point, possibly 10–20 million years ago, movement along the Balcones Fault uplifted a massive hunk of limestone now known as the Edwards Plateau. The southeastern edge of this uplift was exposed to the elements, and its newer, softer rock eroded to form the dramatic cliffs and rocky outcroppings characterizing the present-day Balcones Escarpment, the ridge separating the undulating Hill Country to the west from the level Texas Coastal Plain to the southeast.
The movement in the earth’s crust also created the Edwards Aquifer. A karst aquifer, the Edwards was formed over time as limestone-rich bedrock dissolved, creating an underground honeycomb network of pockets, caverns, and holes in which water collects and through which it percolates. The sinkholes, disappearing streams, and cave entrances of the Hill Country are all telltale signs of karst regions. When it rains, water rushes over the Cretaceous limestone streambeds of this “contributing zone” and into the aquifer, topping off its massive holdings. As the Edwards is also an artesian aquifer, the water within is held under hydrostatic pressure, producing the region’s many springs, such as Barton Springs in Austin, Comal Springs in New Braunfels, and Aquarena Springs in San Marcos. While the aquifer contains enough water for use well into the future, if its levels drop, so too does the flow of its springs, threatening the vegetation and many endangered species that rely upon them. Central Texans are aware of their own complete dependency on the Edwards Aquifer, a circumstance made increasingly complicated by rapid growth and growing demands for water.
LUCKY, TX
Always self-reliant, Texans have also been blessed with tremendous good luck. Rebounding from defeats suffered in the Civil War, Texans returned to find a population explosion of wild longhorn cattle. Rounded up by cowboys and taken to market along the Chisholm Trail in legendary cattle drives between 1867 and 1884, they provided a steady source of income for a state in dire need. Agriculture also flourished. Then, in 1901, one of the state’s greatest natural resources was tapped at Spindletop, near Beaumont. After drilling for hours, amid much skepticism, exhausted workers struck “black gold,” and a 150-foot geyser of the oil that would finance much of Texas’s future came rocketing out of the ground.
For the nature enthusiast, the biodiversity of flora and fauna living in or migrating through Austin, San Antonio, and the Hill Country can be fascinating. For instance, millions upon millions of Mexican free-tailed bats roost in the nooks, crannies, and caves of Central Texas; the region is home to one of the largest maternity roosts for bats in the world. The bats give birth in the area’s caves, take turns feeding and minding their young, and scour the countryside for insects, devouring tens of thousands of pounds’ worth each night between May and October. While their presence has not always been met with much enthusiasm or tolerance, in time and with education folks around here grew to enjoy them, and public sentiment has morphed from fear to appreciation. With half a million bats, the Congress Avenue Bridge in Austin is home to the largest urban bat population in the world, and watching them take flight each night is a popular entertainment.
Sharing the great Texas sky with the bats is the state’s huge variety of birds. An astonishing three-fourths of all American birds are represented throughout the diverse avian habitats of Texas. Some birds are residents and others migratory, passing through Central Texas on the 300-mile-wide “Central Flyway,” one of the great routes for migration between Canada and Central and South America. Of the thousands of birds to make the trip, the golden-cheeked warbler is the only one to nest exclusively in Texas and, due to loss of habitat, is the most critically endangered of all warblers.
Also traveling the Central Flyway is the monarch butterfly, Texas’s state insect. Monarchs are unusual among butterflies in that they migrate instead of hibernating; those that make the trip through Texas tend to originate in the upper Midwest, funneling through the Central Flyway on their way to Mexico. During this migration, in October, Central Texas enjoys the spectacle of millions of orange and black monarchs gliding along on favorable winds or resting and refueling at area gardens.
Central Texas has a wealth of parks and trails, making the region a natural spot for ecotourism. One of the best ways to commune with nature is to visit a state park, and there are many to choose from. From the bald pink dome of Enchanted Rock to the limestone canyons of Lost Maples, the state parks showcase the diversity of the regional landscape and the variety of wildlife it supports. Gray fox, armadillo, coyote, opossum, raccoon, bobcat, rock squirrel, roadrunner, white-tailed deer, and javelina are all common, and the patient observer can sometimes catch a glimpse of rarer species, such as the Cagle’s map turtle, the San Marcos salamander, or the Guadalupe bass.
The history of Texas is fascinating in its depth and breadth. A cultural crossroads for centuries, the state is crisscrossed by the footprints of many. Some have just passed through, while others hung their hat for a while. Texas’s roots are deep and spread wide. In addition to the recommended readings at the end of this book (“Suggested References” in the Information chapter), a wealth of information exists online for anyone wanting to learn more.
Briscoe Center for American History at the University of Texas at Austin (www.cah.utexas.edu): a useful site for locating sources of information regarding the various ethnic groups in Texas
Texas Almanac (www.texasalmanac.com): timelines, photos, and historical essays clearly presented
Texas Archeological Research Lab at the University of Texas at Austin (www.texasbeyondhistory.net): interactive website offering archaeological facts and information
The Texas State Historical Association (www.tshaonline.org): exhaustive online handbook of Texas history
Texas Historical Commission (www.thc.state.tx.us): comprehensive site including information on historic courthouses, cemeteries, and archaeological sites
Texas Parks and Wildlife (www.tpwd.texas.gov): information and photographs regarding the natural and cultural history of Texas
The Peoples of Texas
The unique terrain of Central Texas, with its clear springs, sheltering caves, and abundant wildlife, has made the region naturally attractive to humans for well over 11,000 years. Looking to the relatively recent past, Tonkawa and Lipan Apache Indians are thought to have lived here from the 14th century, with the Comanche and Kiowa arriving in the 18th century. While many of the other peoples living concurrently in neighboring regions had already begun to live in villages, the groups living in this region were fairly nomadic, following food sources throughout the seasons and varying weather conditions. Although there is still much to learn, the archaeological record of the region is extraordinary, certainly one of the longest continuous records of hunters and gatherers in North America. Prior to the arrival of Europeans, approximately 45,000 Native Americans lived in the region, organized in groups, each with its own language, identity, and customs. However, the elements that attracted the first peoples would, of course, attract others, and people kept coming.
TEJANOS From the 1600s through the 1800s, pioneers from Mexico journeyed north and began settling the Texas frontier, creating towns, building roads and ranches, and governing themselves. Throughout the 1700s they put down roots, establishing the settlements that would become El Paso, Galveston, Laredo, San Antonio, Victoria, and the large ranches of Central and South Texas. Those industrious pioneer ranchers were so successful that they were able to contribute 2,000 head of longhorn cattle to the Revolutionary War effort, driving a herd from Texas to New Orleans in 1776.
MIGRATING MONARCH BUTTERFLY
TEXAN HOSPITALITY
As the land under them shifted from Spanish, French, Mexican, Texan, then American governance (see sidebar, “Six Flags over Texas”), these people of Mexican, Spanish, or indigenous descent continued to live independently. Generations passed, citizenship changed, and cultural influences came and went; these early settlers created their own unique culture, calling themselves Tejanos as early as the 1830s. Distinguished Tejanos Gregorio Esparza and Toribio Losoya both died in 1836 defending the Alamo, the mission that had been their birthplace, and José Antonio Navarro and José Francisco Ruiz were the only native Texans to sign the Texas Declaration of Independence that same year.
SPANISH Though the Spanish explorer Alonso Álvarez de Pineda mapped the Texas coastline in 1519, the first Europeans to really get their boots dirty with Texas soil were Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca and several companions, who found themselves shipwrecked on the Gulf Coast in 1528. Once ashore, Cabeza de Vaca and his men spent years living with Native Americans before heading to Mexico City and, eventually, back to Spain. The journey of these men, while extraordinary, might have been entirely forgotten had Cabeza de Vaca not prepared a report of his adventures and delivered it to the Spanish court in the late 1530s, thus providing the first written record of the land and peoples of Texas.
After colonizing Mexico the Spanish made inroads north, bringing with them the horse, which the Apache quickly mastered and rode to regional domination. The Comanche followed suit, and together the mounted Native Americans proved such a threat that the Spanish were hard pressed to set foot in the region for another 200 years. In the 1700s Franciscans passed through on their way to East Texas to convert Native Americans into Roman Catholics and Spanish citizens. There the threat of the French and French-allied Native Americans near the Louisiana border forced them to backtrack to Central Texas, where they established the mission San Antonio de Valero, later known as the Alamo.
The flags of six countries have flown over Texas, making it one of the most sought-after and fought-over pieces of land in North America. Spain was the first, claiming Texas as its own from 1519 to 1685 as an extension of its holdings in Mexico, but it never created much of an actual presence in its far-flung acquisition.
In 1685 the French, emboldened by their success in Louisiana, planted their flag on Texas soil just across the eastern border, but mishaps and misfortune caused them to abandon their claim in 1690, at which time the Spanish regained control, which they kept until 1821.
During their rule the Spanish focused on expanding their empire and establishing a solid foothold in North America. In Texas, presidios (forts) were built to protect and defend, and misiones (missions) were established in the hopes that self-sustaining communities of Spanish Catholic citizens might arise.
When Mexico won independence from Spain in 1821, Texas became the land of opportunity for both Hispanic pioneers from the south and Anglos from the north, all considering themselves citizens of Mexico. Out on the frontier people were used to being their own masters, however, and when General Santa Anna dismissed the Mexican Constitution, effectively declaring himself king, they revolted.
Battles at Gonzales and the Alamo in San Antonio tested the resolve of the revolutionaries, but the definitive battle at San Jacinto, on April 21, 1836, secured their independence, giving rise to the fourth flag, that of the Republic of Texas.
The republic had its ups and downs during its almost 10 years of existence from 1836 to 1845, but its rugged individualism, gritty determination, and boundless energy—not to mention lots and lots of land—made it a very attractive addition to the United States, which it joined on December 29, 1845.
Sixteen years later, the Civil War tore the fledgling nation apart, and Texas, though advised by Governor Sam Houston to remain neutral or reestablish a republic, sided with the Southerners, and the flag of the Confederacy flew over Texas from 1861 to 1865. While Texans valiantly fought, and won, the last battle of the Civil War, it was, unfortunately, after the Confederacy had already surrendered, and Texas suffered the rebels’ fate. The flag of the United States of America has hung over Texas, the 28th state, since 1865.
Still, for many Texans, the flag that suits Texas best is its state flag, that of the tumultuous but short-lived former republic—the simple, straightforward, iconic Lone Star Flag, a proud reminder that though Texas may have been ruled by many, it has been controlled by none.
NATIVE AMERICANS The arrival of Europeans was clearly the pivotal historic moment for Native Americans in Texas, as elsewhere. When the Franciscans arrived in the 1700s proposing mission life, the reaction of the Native Americans varied immensely. Some wanted nothing to do with the newcomers, while some smaller groups saw the missions as a refuge from harassment and hostilities at the hands of larger groups. In the 1800s settlers came to Texas by the wagonload, bringing with them the notion of land claiming. Native Americans asked for, and were promised, ownership of the land they considered theirs, yet years of fighting, alliances, treaties, surprise attacks, and broken promises failed to yield documentation. While land ownership remained elusive, tensions boiled.
President Sam Houston of the Republic of Texas brokered treaties with the Tonkawas, the Lipan Apaches, the Comanches, Kichais, Tawakonis, Wacos, and Taovayas throughout 1837 and 1838, creating a tenuous peace. In the 1850s, after Texas joined the United States of America, these many treaties and agreements were broken, and many Native Americans were forced to leave Texas or relocate to reservations. The disastrous Red River War in 1874 was the final straw, and in June 1875 the mighty Comanche surrendered at Fort Sill. In short, the 1800s were catastrophic for Native Americans in Texas, leaving their populations decimated by disease, violence, starvation, or genocide. These days, their descendants host the Austin Powwow and American Indian Heritage Festival, the largest annual Native American gathering in Texas, a huge celebration of Native American heritage and a commemoration of their shared history.
ANGLOS Anglos, a convenient term for people of various European backgrounds arriving primarily from the United States, came to Texas following the promise of plentiful, inexpensive land at precisely the time that Spain was having difficulty convincing its own citizens that this isolated, unknown, and generally hostile environment was a good investment. As long as these incoming Anglos agreed to become both Catholic and Spanish, they were guaranteed large land grants, and many, sincere or not in their desire to convert, took the bait. When Mexico gained independence from Spain in 1821, it extended the deal, giving empresarios, those willing to help organize and oversee large groups of immigrants, land grants to begin their settlements. During this time, immigrants came for many reasons. Some, Stephen F. Austin for one, made the trip with the promise of land ownership, while others came on the lam, taking advantage of the fact that the US and Mexico had not yet established an extradition agreement. Slave owners brought slaves, incensing the Mexican government, which not only had forbidden the African slave trade, but whose president, Vicente Ramón Guerrero, had emancipated all slaves on September 15, 1829, in commemoration of Mexican independence. Nevertheless, slaves were bought and sold in Texas until 1840, with Mexico turning a blind eye in the hopes that the cotton production so dependent on slave labor might prove profitable.
LONGHORN CATTLE
Being so far removed from the long reach of government, over time the new Texans started to organize, think, and act for themselves. In 1830, after much tension and fearing rebellion, the Mexican government passed the Law of April 6th, effectively making unorganized immigration from the US to Texas illegal. Europeans, however, kept coming, and in 1831 Johann Friedrich Ernst, his wife, and their children were the first German family to arrive in Texas, settling near present-day Austin. Ernst was so impressed with his new surroundings that he wrote glowing letters back to Germany detailing his new home. Word spread, and by 1850 people of German descent totaled 5 percent of the state’s total population, settling mostly in New Braunfels or fanning out into the Hill Country.
Texans soon began to chafe under Mexican leadership, growing restless for self-determination. In 1833 Antonio López de Santa Anna Pérez de Lebrón, the legendary Santa Anna, was installed as the president of Mexico. A lifelong military man, Santa Anna—though elected as a liberal—established himself as a dictator as soon as he was in power. After crushing opponents in Mexico, he headed north to San Antonio to confront the growing rebellion in Texas, attacking the Alamo in the early morning hours of March 6, 1836. His victory there—a dramatic example of winning the battle but losing the war—only galvanized Texans’ support for independence. Months later, Mexico was defeated at the battle of San Jacinto, and the Republic of Texas was born. When Texas passed from a republic to a state, tiny Austin was thrust into the limelight—a brand-new city for a brand-new Texas.
Transportation
TO AND FROM THE REGION Interstate 35 links Austin and San Antonio. Sometimes called the NAFTA Highway, I-35 originates at the Mexican border and bisects the United States on its way to Duluth, Minnesota, on Lake Superior. Consequently, the six-lane route is constantly jammed with 18-wheelers, livestock trailers, delivery trucks, and overloaded pickups headed north and south. When traffic is flowing, I-35 is perfectly functional, but when it’s not, be prepared to sit and wait . . . and wait, and wait. In and around both Austin and San Antonio, it is always wise to budget some extra time into your itinerary for inevitable congestion. Conversely, traffic in the Hill Country flows at a leisurely pace; generally speaking, you can breeze undeterred over the winding, rural roads between towns.
HAUPTSTRASSE, OR MAIN STREET, IN BOERNE
GOT WHEELS?
Most visitors to the region rent a car, and most major rental companies have kiosks in each airport. While it is possible to get around most of Austin or San Antonio using public transportation, a car is essential for touring the Hill Country. The percentage of uninsured motorists in Texas is high, and while lawmakers are attempting to curb the problem, a fender bender, regardless of fault, may end up costing you a pretty penny. Be sure to check your insurance policy before you drive.
Reservations are strongly recommended.
Advantage (800-777-5500; www.advantage.com)
Alamo (800-462-5266; www.alamo.com)
Avis (800-331-1212; www.avis.com)
Budget (800-527-0700; www.budget.com)
Dollar (800-800-3665; www.dollar.com)
Enterprise (800-261-7331; www.enterprise.com)
Hertz (800-654-3131; www.hertz.com)
National (844-382-6875; www.nationalcar.com)
Thrifty (800-847-4389; www.thrifty.com)
Inside Austin and San Antonio the paths of interstate highways, U.S. highways, and state highways often merge. In San Antonio, for example, I-10 is also US 87 or US 90 at various points; US 281 north of town suddenly becomes I-37 south of town. Some state highways have names in addition to their numbers. Loop 360 in Austin is known as Capital of Texas Highway. Loop 1, also in Austin, is commonly referred to by its nickname, “MoPac.” The Hill Country is traversed by plenty of small highways known as farm-to-market (FM) or ranch-to-market (RM) roads, which were built to be reliable trade routes between agricultural Texas and nearby cities or market centers. Constructed in the 1940s, these secondary roads are well maintained by the Texas Department of Transportation. County roads (CR), maintained by individual counties, are also secondary roads, though their size and conditions vary.
GETTING TO CENTRAL TEXAS By Air: Air travelers coming to the region might consider flying into either Austin or San Antonio. Depending on your destination and time of travel, prices can vary widely; being flexible in your travel plans can sometimes yield big savings.
Austin-Bergstrom International Airport (512-530-2242; www.austintexas.gov/department/airport) 3600 Presidential Blvd., Austin, TX 78719.
The airport is located in southeast Austin, just east of the intersection of TX 71 and US 183, approximately 8 miles from downtown.
Taxi: American Yellow Checker Cab (512-452-9999; www.yellowcabaustin.com) Price: approximately $25-$30.
Airport Shuttle: Super Shuttle (512-258-3826 or 800-258-3826; www.supershuttle.com) Price: $12.
Bus: Capital Metro Bus (512-474-1200; www.capmetro.org) The Airport Flyer travels between the airport and two centrally located downtown stops, Sixth Street & Brazos, and 18th Street & Congress Avenue. It connects downtown and UT to the airport. Price: $1.
San Antonio International Airport (210-207-3433; www.sanantonio.gov/SAT) 9800 Airport Blvd., San Antonio, TX 78216. The airport is located near the intersection of Loop 410 and US 281, approximately 8 miles from downtown San Antonio.
Taxi: San Antonio Taxis (210-444-2222; www.sataxis.com) or Yellow Checker Cab (210-222-2222; www.yellowcabsa.com) Price: approximately $25–$30.
Airport Shuttle: Super Shuttle (210-281-9900; www.supershuttlesa.com) Price: one-way $19, round-trip $34.
Bus: VIA Metropolitan Transit (210-362-2020; www.viainfo.net) Price: $1.30.
By Train or Bus: While` train or bus travel to the region and between its cities and towns is possible, it is not very efficient.
Train: Amtrak (800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com)
Austin: 512-476-5684; 250 N. Lamar Blvd., Austin, TX 78703
San Antonio: 210-223-3226; 350 Hoefgen St., San Antonio, TX 78205
Bus: Greyhound (800-231-2222; www.greyhound.com)
Austin: 512-458-4463; 916 E. Koenig Lane, Austin, TX 78751
San Antonio: 210-270-5824; 500 N. St. Mary’s St., San Antonio, TX 78205
Food and Drink
The secret to dining in Central Texas is to focus on the well done. Whether you’re in an upscale restaurant or a neighborhood coffee shop, the charm of eating out in Central Texas is in the details, with an emphasis on quality and personality. At any price level, many menus feature creative seasonal fare accompanied by plenty of vegetables, meal-sized salads, and hearty soups, frequently made with organic ingredients. Vegetarians and the health-conscious will find themselves in unusually good company in this area, where restaurant menus tend to be diverse. Regional chefs love using locally grown or produced items, and regional wines, cheeses, game, fruits, and vegetables are often highlighted. The many, many individually owned and operated restaurants in Austin and San Antonio are very much rooted in their neighborhoods and their city, with a large number of them supporting local causes, participating in community events, and providing venues for local musicians and visual artists.
Now for the details. As you will undoubtedly notice, casual attire—some people wear shorts and flip-flops throughout the better part of the year—is commonplace. Wearing “business casual” is appropriate for most of the pricier establishments, though you won’t feel out of place should you decide to dress up for a fancy, formal meal. Families seem especially welcome in Austin’s eating establishments, most of which offer booster seats, kids’ menus, and a friendly atmosphere. Generally, credit cards are accepted, and I have noted the occasional place where they are not. Reservations should be considered essential at the more expensive and popular spots, and I have recommended making them if necessary. You are not allowed to smoke in any public building or within 15 feet of the entrance to one. As with everything, details change, so please call ahead to ensure your visit goes smoothly.
In San Antonio, people like to eat out in style. For pricier establishments, “business casual” is generally appropriate. Families are welcome, particularly at the city’s many casual restaurants, which are often family run themselves and quite kid friendly. If you are on a schedule or dining with a large group, consider making reservations or calling ahead.
Emergency Numbers
In an emergency, dial 911 and tell the operator your location and the nature of your emergency, and your call will be directed to the appropriate responder.
Poison Control is 800-222-1222; www.poison.org.
For further assistance, see “Hospitals” here.
Area Codes
Austin |
512 |
SAN ANTONIO
Bexar County |
210 |
Comal County |
830 |
THE HILL COUNTRY
Bandera |
830 |
Blanco |
830 |
Boerne |
830, 210 |
Comfort |
830 |
Fredericksburg |
830 |
Johnson City |
830 |
Kerrville |
830 |
Marble Falls |
830 |
Stonewall |
830 |
Wimberley |
512 |
NEARBY AND IN BETWEEN
Georgetown |
512 |
New Braunfels/Gruene |
830 |
San Marcos |
512 |
Banks and Money
A good many national banks, or banks that participate in national networks, are represented in Austin and San Antonio. However, depending on the bank, you could incur several dollars in fees per ATM withdrawal. Alternatively, many national stores, such as Target or Walmart, grocery stores, and the post office will allow you to get “cash back” if you use your debit card to make a purchase. Though there is frequently a maximum withdrawal of $100, there is generally no additional fee. In the Hill Country, ATM machines are fewer and farther between, so plan accordingly, and be sure to check in advance that a shop or restaurant accepts credit cards.
Climate and Weather Reports
The weather in Austin, San Antonio, and the Hill Country is generally favorable, with about 300 sunny days a year, warm nights, and gentle breezes. Mid-July to mid-September is the hottest time of year, with temperatures easily reaching the high 90s. Austin and San Antonio can become stiflingly humid, the Hill Country somewhat less so; the farther west you travel, the more arid it becomes. Winters tend to be cool but not often freezing, with snow an aberration. The region gets most of its rainfall in the spring, when steady showers soak the ground and fill lakes and streams.
THE HEAT When it gets hot in Texas, it gets really, really hot. When it gets humid in Texas, it gets really, really humid. In fact, the best way to describe the summertime in San Antonio, in particular, is tropical. Since dehydration and heatstroke are not uncommon conditions, it’s important to be aware and prepared. Sunglasses, sunscreen, a light cotton long-sleeved shirt, a wide-brimmed hat, an umbrella, or even a small spray bottle filled with water for misting can help provide protection and relief. Staying hydrated is essential; steering clear of sodas and alcoholic beverages in favor of water, sports drinks, and juice is considered wise.
STORMS Arriving sometimes without warning, summertime thunderstorms can bring torrential rain and flash floods. When flash-flood warnings are issued, it is best to exercise caution and avoid creeks, drainage ditches, and low-water road crossings, as signs in these areas will indicate. Tornadoes frequently accompany thunderstorms, so it is best to listen to or watch the news for any words of caution. A tornado or severe thunderstorm watch serves as an alert that conditions are favorable for either event, while a tornado or severe thunderstorm warning means that either event has been detected on radar and danger may be imminent. In this case, it is best to seek cover in a substantial building, away from windows. In cooler weather ice storms can occur, and since Central Texas does not maintain a large fleet of sand or salt trucks, the roads can become treacherously slick and hazardous. Texas drivers are inexperienced with slick or icy roads, and during storms accidents tend to be frequent.
Grocery Stores/Drugstores
HEB is a grocery-store chain based in San Antonio with many locations throughout Austin, San Antonio, and the Hill Country. HEB also owns Central Market.
AUSTIN
HEB (512-459-6513; www.heb.com) There are many HEBs in Austin, but this one is open 24 hours a day with a 24-hour pharmacy (512-459-8308).
SAN ANTONIO
HEB (210-829-7373; www.heb.com) The store is open until 1 AM and the pharmacy is open Monday through Friday 9–9, Saturday 9–8, and Sunday 10–5. Pharmacy phone is 210-829-1705.
Accessible Services
In Austin and San Antonio, Wheelchair Getaways (800-723-6028; www.wheelchairgetaways.com) rents accessible vans. In San Antonio, the Riverwalk will present some challenges for anyone with restricted mobility. Visit www.thesanantonioriverwalk.com for maps detailing access points, ramps, and walkways.
AUSTIN
University Medical Center Brackenridge Hospital (512-324-7000; www.seton.net)
Dell Children’s Medical Center (512-324-000; www.dellchildrens.net)
Seton Medical Center Austin (512-324-1000; www.seton.net)
Seton Shoal Creek (512-324-2000; www.seton.net) Emergency psychiatric care
St. David’s Medical Center (512-476-7111; www.stdavidsmedicalcenter.com)
BANDERO
Closest facility is in Kerrville.
BLANCO
Closest facility is in Fredericksburg.
BOERNE
Closest facility is in San Antonio.
BURNET
Seton Highland Lakes Hospital (512-715-3000; www.seton.net)
COMFORT
Closest facility is in Kerrville.
FREDERICKSBURG
Hill Country Memorial Hospital (830-997-4353; www.hillcountrymemorial.org)
St. David’s Georgetown Hospital (512-943-3000; www.georgetownhealthcare.org)
JOHNSON CITY
Closest facilities are in Fredericksburg or Marble Falls.
KERRVILLE
Peterson Regional Medical Center (830-896-4200; www.petersonrmc.com)
MARBLE FALLS
Marble Falls Minor Emergency Center (830-798-1122; www.mfmec.org)
Seton Highland Lakes Hospital (512-715-3000; www.seton.net)
NEW BRAUNFELS/GRUENE
McKenna Memorial Hospital (830-606-2180; www.mckenna.org)
SAN ANTONIO
Baptist Medical Center (210-297-7000; www.baptisthealthsystem.com)
Nix Medical Center (210-271-1800; www.nixhealth.com)
Christus Santa Rosa Health Care (210-704-2361; www.christussantarosa.org)
SAN MARCOS
Central Texas Medical Center (512-353-8979; www.ctmc.org)
STONEWALL
Closest facility is in Fredericksburg.
WIMBERLEY
Central Texas Medical Center (512-353-8979; www.ctmc.org)
Late-Night Food, Fuel, and Groceries
AUSTIN
Catering to students’ insomnia and club-goers’ late-night tendencies, there are a few spots to eat all day and night in Austin. Try 24 Diner, Kerbey Lane Cafe, or Magnolia Cafe.
SAN ANTONIO
Mi Tierra serves Mexican food and Lulu’s has breakfast treats 24/7.
Licenses
Hunting and fishing, popular recreational activities in Texas, require state-issued licenses, which are available at numerous locations, including some grocery and sports stores, online through the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department’s website, www.tpwd.state.tx.us, or by phone at 800-895-4248. However, fishing from shore or pier within a Texas state park does not require a license; check at the park’s headquarters for details. For a full overview of state hunting and fishing regulations, go to www.tpwd.state.tx.us/regulations. Texas game wardens are especially strict, and any violation of state hunting and fishing regulations will be taken very seriously.
Media
MAGAZINES AND NEWSPAPERS Both Austin and San Antonio have dailies as well as free weekly papers, all of which are likely to include information regarding events in the towns nearby and in between and in the Hill Country.
Austin American-Statesman (www.statesman.com) The Austin daily. The Statesman’s Entertainment, Calendar, and Life sections and archived reviews can also be viewed online at www.austin360.com.
Austin Chronicle (www.austinchronicle.com) Excellent free weekly guide to entertainment, with politics and news thrown in. Published on Thursdays.
SAN ANTONIO
San Antonio Express-News (www.mysanantonio.com) The San Antonio daily news; in print or online.
San Antonio Current (www.sacurrent.com) News, culture, free. Published on Thursdays.
HILL COUNTRY
Many of these tiny papers are regional, serving the city mentioned and, oftentimes, the entire county.
Bandera Bulletin (www.banderabulletin.com)
Blanco County News (www.blancocountynews.com)
Boerne Star (www.boernestar.com)
Burnet Bulletin (www.burnetbulletin.com)
Comfort News (www.comfortnews.com)
Fredericksburg Standard (www.fredericksburgstandard.com)
Herald-Zeitung (New Braunfels/Gruene, www.heraldzeitung.com)
Johnson City Record Courier (www.jcrecordcourier.com)
Junction Eagle (www.junctioneagle.com)
Kerrville Times (www.dailytimes.com)
San Marcos Daily Record (www.sanmarcosrecord.com)
Williamson County Sun (Georgetown, www.wilcosun.com)
Wimberley View/Hill Country Sun (www.hillcountrysun.com)
RADIO STATIONS
AUSTIN
KBPA 103.5 “BOB” FM. Their tagline, “Bob plays anything,” says it all.
KMFA 89.5 FM. Outstanding classical music since 1967.
KUT 90.5 AM. National Public Radio and outstanding music.
KVET 98.1 FM. Country music and Longhorn sports.
SAN ANTONIO
KLEY 94.1 FM. Tejano music.
KPAC 88.3 FM. National Public Radio and classical music.
KROM 92.2 FM. Mexican pop.
KRTU 91.7 FM. Trinity University station.
KSTX 89.1 FM. National Public Radio.
HILL COUNTRY
KTXI 90.1 FM. National Public Radio.
Pests
For whatever reason, pests love Texas and tend to thrive in its temperate climate despite efforts to control them. The truth is that many serve an important ecological function and most are harmless, but there are a few pests that should have you watching where you sit, step, or stand.
FIRE ANTS The biggest pests in Central Texas are the fire ants, for which you will frequently see warning signs posted. Fire ants tend to make mounds in sunny, open fields and parks, by the side of the road, and at the base of trees and other objects, such as picnic tables. When their nest is disturbed, they swarm and deliver many simulta- neous stings, which are similar to bee stings in look and feel. Usually no medical intervention is required, but as with bees, a small percentage of the population may have a severe allergic reaction, in which case emergency medical care is essential. The only prevention is avoidance, so watch where you sit and stand, and be especially aware of small children.
SNAKES Snakes are common in Texas, but of the 72 native species and subspecies, only 15 pose any threat to humans. In Central Texas, snakes keep to themselves and do not tend to initiate interactions. Since both poisonous and nonpoisonous snakes bite, if you have the unfortunate experience of being bitten, a precautionary trip to the emergency room would be wise.
SPIDERS Of the 900 species of spiders present in Texas, only two groups pose any threat to humans: the recluse and widow spiders. In many cases, if you are bitten by one of these, you may not notice until the appearance of a suspicious wound coupled with fever, chills, nausea, pain, vomiting, or weakness, among other symptoms. In all cases, swab the wound with alcohol, relieve swelling and pain with ice, and call your doctor or, depending on the severity, visit the emergency room.
Religious Services
Texas is known for its religious enthusiasm, and there are plenty of places of worship in Central Texas. The Austin American-Statesman, the San Antonio Express-News, and the newspapers in the larger towns of the Hill Country list upcoming services in their Saturday editions. While many religious organizations in the region identify themselves as Christian, they are widely varied in focus, practice, and beliefs. You will find the most religious diversity in Austin and San Antonio, where Jewish, Islamic, and other religious communities are active.
Tourist Information
Local visitor centers and convention bureaus are great sources of information, maps, advice, and even coupons for discounts on tours and admission fees.
AUSTIN
Austin Convention & Visitor Bureau (800-926-ACVB; www.austintexas.org; 301 Congress Ave., Suite 200, Austin, TX 78701)
Austin Visitor Center (866-GO- AUSTIN; www.austintexas.org; 209 E. Sixth St., Austin, TX 78701) Open Mon.–Fri. 9–5, Sat.–Sun. 9–6.
SAN ANTONIO
San Antonio Convention and Visitor Bureau (210-207-6700 or 800-447-3372; www.sanantoniocvb.com; 203 S. St. Mary’s St., 2nd floor, San Antonio, TX 78205)
San Antonio Chamber of Commerce (210-229-2100; www.sanantonio.com; 602 E. Commerce St., San Antonio, TX 78205)
HILL COUNTRY
Bandera
Bandera County Convention and Visitor Bureau (830-796-3045 or 800-364-3833; www.banderacowboycapital.com; P.O. Box 171, Bandera, TX 78003)
Blanco
Blanco Chamber of Commerce (830-833-5101; www.blancochamber.com; 312 Pecan St., Blanco, TX 78606)
Boerne Convention and Visitor Bureau (830-249-7277 or 888-842-8080; www.visitboerne.org; 1407 S. Main St., Boerne, TX 78006)
Greater Boerne Chamber of Commerce (830-249-8000 or 888-842-8080; www.boerne.org; 126 Rosewood Ave., Boerne, TX 78006)
Burnet
Burnet Chamber of Commerce (512-756-4297; www.burnetchamber.org; 229 S. Pierce St., Burnet, TX 78611)
Comfort
www.shopcomfort.com. Information available in Fredericksburg and Kerrville.
Fredericksburg
Fredericksburg Chamber of Commerce (830-997-6523 or 1-888-997-3600; www.fredericksburg-texas.com; 302 E. Austin St., Fredericksburg, TX 78624)
Johnson City
Johnson City Texas Chamber of Commerce (830-868-7684; www.lbjcountry.com) Located inside the Hill Country Visitor Center (830-367-2151; www.hillcountryvisitorscenter.com; 803 US 281 South, Johnson City, TX 78636)
DECORATIVE IRON FENCING ON THE CAPITOL GROUNDS IN AUSTIN
Kerrville Convention and Visitor Bureau (830-792-3535 or 800-221-7958; www.kerrvilletexascvb.com; 2108 Sidney Baker St., Kerrville, TX 78028) Open Mon.–Fri. 8:30–5, Sat. 9–3, Sun. 10–3.
Kerrville Chamber of Commerce (830-896-1155; www.kerrvilletx.com; 1700 Sidney Baker St., Suite 100, Kerrville, TX 78028)
Marble Falls
Marble Falls/Lake LBJ Visitor Center (830-693-4449 or 800-759-8178; www.marblefalls.org; 801 US 281, Marble Falls, TX 78654) Open Mon.–Fri. 8–5.
Stonewall
Stonewall Chamber of Commerce (830-644-2735; www.stonewalltexas.com; 115 St. Francis St., Stonewall, TX 78671)
Wimberley
Wimberley Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center (www.visitwimberley.org; P.O. Box 12, Wimberley, TX 78676)
NEARBY AND IN BETWEEN
Georgetown
Georgetown Visitor Information Center (512-436-8696; www.visit.georgetown.org; 101 W. Seventh St., Georgetown, TX 78626)
New Braunfels
New Braunfels Chamber of Commerce (800-572-2626; www.nbjumpin.com; P.O. Box 311417, New Braunfels, TX 78131). Gruene Historic District (830-629-5077; www.gruenetexas.com)
San Marcos
San Marcos Convention and Visitor Bureau (512-393-5900 or 888-200-5620; www.toursanmarcos.com; 202 N. C. M. Allen Pkwy., San Marcos, TX 78667)
Tourist Information Center (512-393-5930; 617 I-35 North, San Marcos, TX 78666)
