I use the lid of a black iron Dutch oven, which lives permanently in the warmth above an Esse stove, and has the additional safeguard of an inside coating of tasteless vegetable oil. This averts rusting. As iron turns a wine sauce black (harmless but unappetizing), enamelled cast-iron ware frying pans or French Équipinox pans are a useful, though far costlier, addition to the kitchen.

Fish kettle may sound illogical, but its strainer tray enables large quantities of boudins blancs and black puddings to be poached with the minimum risk of their bursting. A good, if smaller, substitute is a cheap collapsible metal chip basket or lettuce shaker, and a large saucepan into which it fits easily.