The fortifications built in 1809–10 in and around Lisbon have often been the victims of urban development in the last two centuries. The third Line of Torres Vedras protecting the possible embarkation point at Sao Juliao is now totally built over. Lisbon itself is certainly a delight to visit, and a climb to the castle of St. George dominating the city’s centre gives an excellent view of the city’s strategic position and of the River Tagus. From the famous Tower of Belem and westwards following the shore to Cascaes and beyond, there are many seacoast forts still standing that were garrisoned at the time of the Napoleonic wars. The second Line of Torres Vedras at the level of Mafra is also much overrun by the growing suburbs of Lisbon. The first Line of Torres Vedras is also rapidly being swamped but there are still substantial remnants to see. The town of Torres Vedras has grown extensively since 1810 but is a pleasant place to stay and its small medieval castle, which formed one of the strongpoints in the line, makes an interesting visit. Torres Vedras also has a tall obelisk monument dedicated to the memory of the Anglo-Portuguese army and of the lines. Driving down various country roads will bring one to other places, such as Sobral and Pero Negro, still a small village with the mansion where Wellington had his HQ. On a hill just north of the house are what appear to be the remains of a foundation, which may have been for the telegraph station on its summit.
Heading north, Santarem on the Tagus River has expanded greatly as have most other towns. If one ventures as far as Coimbra, standing by the river Mondego at the city centre will put you in the same spot as Trant and the Portuguese levies as they watched the French across the river. Travelling east, one eventually reaches the Spanish border. The fortress of Almeida simply must be seen as its isolation has ensured its preservation. Not far to the east is the ruined Spanish fort of La Concepcion. There are really two villages of Fuentes de Oñoro. The one on the main highway is a modern border services town with all the concomitant conveniences. The village where the battle occurred is about a kilometre south along a small road. It is still a small, humble hamlet with low houses of stone, much as in 1810. Next to the small church is a simple monument to the battle erected on the scene of the desperate fighting that occurred there nearly two centuries ago, ending Napoleon’s dream of total Iberian domination.