Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents
Napa | Yountville | Oakville | Rutherford | St. Helena | Calistoga
When it comes to wine production in the United States, Napa Valley rules the roost, with nearly 400 wineries and many of the biggest brands in the business. Vastly diverse soils and microclimates give Napa winemakers the chance to make a tremendous variety of wines. But what’s the area like beyond the glossy advertising and boldface names?
The small towns strung along Highway 29 are where wine-industry workers live, and they’re also where most of the area lodging is. Napa—the valley’s largest town—lures with its growing cultural attractions and accommodations that are (relatively) reasonably priced. A few miles farther north, compact Yountville is a culinary boomtown, densely packed with top-notch restaurants and hotels, including a few luxury properties. Continuing north, St. Helena teems with elegant boutiques and restaurants; mellow Calistoga, known for spas and hot springs, feels a bit like an Old West frontier town, and has a more casual attitude.
Essentials
Contacts
Napa Valley Destination Council.
707/226–5813, 707/251-5895 | www.legendarynapavalley.com.
Napa
46 miles from San Francisco via I–80 east and north, Hwy. 37 west, and Hwy. 29 north.
The town of Napa is the valley’s largest, and visitors who get a glimpse of the strip malls and big-box stores from Highway 29 often speed right past on the way to smaller and more seductive Yountville or St. Helena. But Napa is changing. After many years as a blue-collar town that more or less turned its back on the Wine Country scene, Napa has spent the last few years attempting to increase its appeal to visitors. A walkway that follows the river through town, completed in 2008, makes the city more pedestrian-friendly, and in the last two years a surprising number of high-profile new restaurants have popped up. Of course there’s also the Oxbow Public Market, a klatch of high-end food purveyors. At night, catch a show at either the circa-1880 Napa Valley Opera House, or the recently renovated Uptown Theatre.
Many visitors choose to stay in Napa after experiencing hotel sticker shock; prices in Napa are marginally more reasonable than elsewhere. If you set up your home base here, you’ll undoubtedly want to spend some time getting out of town and into the beautiful countryside, but don’t neglect taking a stroll to see what the valley’s least pretentious town has to offer, or checking out the ever-changing culinary landscape.
Getting Here and Around
To get to downtown Napa from Highway 29, take the 1st Street exit and follow the signs for Central Napa less than a mile through town until you reach the corner of 2nd Street and Main Street. Most of the town’s sights and many of its restaurants are clustered in an easily walkable area near this intersection.
Exploring Napa
Artesa Vineyards & Winery.
With its modern, minimalist look in the tasting room, which is dug into a Carneros hilltop, and contemporary sculptures and fountains on the property, Artesa Vineyards & Winery is a far cry from the many faux French châteaus and rustic Italian-style villas in the region. Although the Spanish owners once made only sparkling wines, now they also produce still wines, mostly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but also Cabernet Sauvignon and a smattering of other limited-release
wines such as Syrah and Albariño. Call ahead to reserve a spot on one of the specialty tours, such as a wine-and-cheese pairing, a wine-and-chocolate pairing, or the walk through the vineyard ($45). | 1345 Henry Rd.
north off Old Sonoma Rd. and Dealy La. | 94558 | 707/224–1668 | www.artesawinery.com | Tasting $10–$15, tour $20 | Daily 10–5; tour daily at 11 and 2.
Clos du Val.
Although this austere winery doesn’t seduce you with dramatic architecture or lush grounds, it doesn’t have to: the wines, crafted by winemaker John Clews, have a wide following, especially among those who are patient enough to cellar the wines for a number of years. Though Clews and his team make great Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (grown in the nearby Carneros region), the real claim to fame is the intense reserve Cabernet, made with fruit from the Stags Leap District.
The few picnic tables (in a peaceful olive grove) fill up early on summer weekends, and anyone is welcome to try a hand at the bocce-style French game of pétanque. | 5330 Silverado Trail | 94558 | 707/261–5251, 800/993–9463 | www.closduval.com | Tasting $15–$25 | Daily 10–5;
tour by appointment.
Fodor’s Choice |
di Rosa.
While you’re driving along the Carneros Highway on your way to Napa from San Francisco, it would be easy to zip by one of the region’s best-kept secrets: di Rosa. Metal sculptures of sheep grazing in the grass mark the entrance to this sprawling, art-stuffed property. Thousands of 20th-century artworks by hundreds of Northern California artists crop up everywhere—in galleries, in the former di Rosa residence, on every lawn, in every courtyard, and even on the lake. Some
of the works were commissioned especially for the preserve, such as Paul Kos’s meditative Chartres Bleu, a video installation in a chapel-like setting that replicates a stained-glass window of the cathedral in Chartres, France. If you stop by without a reservation, you’ll only gain access to the Gatehouse Gallery, where there’s a small collection of riotously colorful figurative and abstract sculpture and painting, as well as rotating modern-art
exhibits throughout the year. TIP
To see the rest of the property and artwork, you’ll have to sign up for one of the various tours of the grounds (from 1 to 2½ hours). Tour reservations are recommended, but walk-ins are sometimes accommodated. | 5200 Sonoma Hwy./Carneros Hwy. | 94559 | 707/226–5991 | www.dirosaart.org | Suggested donation $5, tour $10–$15 | Wed.–Sat. 9–3; tours 10–3.
Domaine Carneros.
The majestic château here looks for all the world like it belongs in France, and in fact it does: it’s modeled after the Château de la Marquetterie, an 18th-century mansion owned by the Taittinger family near Epernay, France. Carved into the hillside beneath the winery, Domaine Carneros’s cellars produce delicate sparkling wines reminiscent of those made by Taittinger, using only grapes grown locally in the Carneros wine district. The winery sells full glasses, flights,
and bottles of their wines, which also include still wines like Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Chardonnay, and serves them with cheese plates, charcuterie plates, caviar, or smoked salmon. Seating is in the Louis XV–inspired salon or on the terrace overlooking the vineyards. Though this makes a visit here a tad more expensive than some stops on a winery tour, it’s also one of the most opulent ways to enjoy the Carneros District, especially on fair days, when the views over the
vineyards are spectacular. | 1240 Duhig Rd.
at Carneros Hwy. | 94559 | 707/257–0101, 800/716–2788 | www.domainecarneros.com | Tasting $6.50–$85, tour $25 | Daily 10–6; tour daily at 11, 1, and 3.
Fodor’s Choice |
Hess Collection Winery.
Nine miles northwest of the city of Napa, up a winding road ascending Mt. Veeder, this winery is a delightful discovery. The simple limestone structure, rustic from the outside but modern and airy within, contains Swiss owner Donald Hess’s personal art collection, including mostly large-scale works by such contemporary European and American artists as Robert Motherwell, Andy Goldsworthy, and Frank Stella. Cabernet Sauvignon is the real strength here, though Hess also
produces some fine Chardonnays. A number of wine-and-food pairings also are available. Self-guided tours of the art collection and guided tours of the winery’s production facilities are both free. On weekdays, ask to borrow an iPod for the free audio tour, which includes commentary by Donald Hess and some of the artists featured in the collection. | 4411 Redwood Rd.
west of Hwy. 29 | 94558 | 707/255–1144 | www.hesscollection.com | Tasting $10–$50 | Daily 10–5:30; guided tours daily, usually hourly 10:30–3:30.
Oxbow Public Market.
Though not terribly large, this collection of about 25 small shops, wine bars, and artisanal food producers is a fun place to begin your introduction to the wealth of food and wine available in the Napa Valley. Swoon over the decadent charcuterie at the Fatted Calf, slurp down some oysters on the half shell at Hog Island Oyster Company, chow down on tacos with homemade tortillas at C Casa, or get a whiff of the hard-to-find seasonings at the Whole Spice Company before
sitting down to a glass of wine at the Oxbow Wine Merchant & Wine Bar. A branch of the retro fast-food joint Gott’s Roadside tempts those who prefer hamburgers (or egg-and-cheese breakfast sandwiches) to duck-liver mousse. | 610 and
644 1st St.
at McKinstry St. | 94559 | No phone | www.oxbowpublicmarket.com | Free | Generally weekdays 9–9, weekends 10–9; hrs of some merchants vary.
Sodaro Estate Winery.
Upscale-yet-modest Sodaro is a great introduction to Coombsville, Napa’s newest AVA. Tours start on the crushpad, with a view of rolling vineyards, then head inside the wine cave, to a marble banquet table, for a seated tasting of the winery’s signature wines: a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Bordeaux-style blend. You might also taste a special limited release, perhaps a Malbec or a Cabernet Franc. All wines are paired with local cheese and breadsticks. The tour concludes
with a walk through the wine cave itself. It’s no surprise the vibe here is so luxurious: owners Don and Deedee Sodaro also own the Hanford Hotels chain. | 24 Blue Oak La.
off 3rd Ave. | 707/251–8216 | www.sodarowines.com | Tour and tasting $30 | Open by appointment only.
Where to Eat in Napa
Angèle.
$$$ | FRENCH | An 1890s boathouse with a vaulted wood-beam ceiling sets the scene for romance at this cozy French bistro. Though the style is casual—tables are close together, and the warm, crusty bread is plunked right down on the paper-top tables—the food is always well executed. Look for classic French dishes like duck breast accompanied with confit, guinea hen wrapped in house-cured pancetta, or a starter of ris de
veau (veal sweetbreads). Save room for the homemade desserts. In fair weather, ask for one of the charming outdoor tables. | Average main: $30 | 540 Main St.
at 5th St. | 94559 | 707/252–8115 | www.angelerestaurant.com.
BarBersQ.
$$ | SOUTHERN | Hardly a down-home ramshackle barbecue shack, this temple to meat in the middle of a shopping center has a clean, modern aesthetic, with black-and-white photos on the wall and brushed aluminum chairs. The menu of barbecue favorites includes a half or full rack of smoked baby back ribs and a Memphis-style pulled-pork sandwich, all served with your choice of three different sauces. The supremely juicy fried chicken, made with
free-range chicken and served with mashed potatoes and vinegary collard greens, is also popular. If you can save any room, the root-beer float or chocolate bourbon pecan pie is a fitting end to a homey meal. Outside seating (on a patio facing the parking lot) is available on fair days. | Average main: $18 | 3900D Bel Aire Plaza
of Trancas St. | 94558 | 707/224–6600 | www.barbersq.com.
Bistro Don Giovanni.
$$$ | ITALIAN | Co-owner and host Giovanni Scala might be around to warmly welcome you to this lively bistro, where you can peek past the copper pots hanging in the open kitchen to see the 750-degree wood-burning oven. The Cal-Italian food is simultaneously inventive and comforting: an excellent fritto misto usually comprised of onions, fennel, calamari, and plump rock shrimp; pizza with Brussels sprouts and garlic; and whole roasted fish.
Children are unusually welcome here, catered to with crayons and paper-topped tables and a menu with items like pizza topped with cheese, french fries, and “no green stuff.” Fodors.com Forum users suggest angling for a table on the covered patio for a “more intimate and quiet” experience. | Average main: $27 | 4110 Howard La./Hwy. 29 | 94558 | 707/224–3300 | www.bistrodongiovanni.com.
Bounty Hunter.
$$$ | SOUTHERN | A triple threat, Bounty Hunter is a wine store, a wine bar, and a restaurant in one. You can stop by for just wine—about 40 choices available by the glass in both 2- and 5-ounce pours, and 400 by the bottle—but it’s best to come with an appetite. A miniscule kitchen means the menu is also small, but every dish is a standout, including the pulled-pork and beef brisket sandwiches served with three types of barbecue sauce, the
signature beer-can chicken, and meltingly tender St. Louis–style ribs. The space is whimsically rustic, with stuffed game trophies mounted on the wall and leather saddles standing in for seats at a couple of tables. TIP
The restaurant remains open until midnight on Friday and Saturday, making it a popular spot for a late-night bite. | Average main: $24 | 975 1st St.
at Main St. | 94559 | 707/226–3976 | www.bountyhunterwinebar.com | Reservations not accepted.
Morimoto Napa.
$$$$ | JAPANESE | Masuharu Morimoto, known to many as the star of Iron Chef but also well regarded for his eponymous restaurants around the world, is the big name behind this hot restaurant in downtown Napa. Organic materials like twisting grapevines above the bar and rough-hewn wooden tables seem simultaneously earthy and modern, which seems a fitting setting for the gorgeously plated Japanese fare, from super-fresh sashimi served with
grated fresh wasabi to more-elaborate concoctions like sea-urchin carbonara, made with udon noodles. For the full experience, consider the omakase menu ($120). If no tables are available, you can still order many dishes in the lounge, where a young and lively crowd drinks specialty cocktails along with appetizers like a tempura calamari salad and pork gyoza. | Average main: $44 | 610 Main St.
at 5th St. | 94559 | 707/252–1600 | www.morimotonapa.com.
Norman Rose Tavern.
$$ | AMERICAN | If downtown Napa has its own version of the bar in Cheers, the Norman Rose Tavern is it. Casual and family-friendly, “The Rose,” as locals call it, serves up classic American fare such as hamburgers, sandwiches, and fish and chips, and proudly pours local wines and regional beers until 9 or 10 pm. Happy Hour, held weeknights from 3 to 6 pm, is particularly rollicking, with $4 draft beers, $6
glasses of wine, $6 hot wings (by the pound), and $2.50 sliders. On warm days, arrive early for a spot on the open-air patio. | Average main: $17 | 1401 1st St.
at Franklin St. | 707/258–1516.
Where to Stay in Napa
Avia Napa.
$ | HOTEL | Hands down, this boutique hotel, now part of the Hyatt family, is the hippest place to stay in Napa; the rooms, most of them suites, are modern but welcomingly so. The second-floor veranda is a romantic spot to cuddle and share a bottle of wine late into the night. Pros: proximity to restaurants, theaters, and tasting rooms downtown; modern fitness center. Cons:
on-site restaurant and bar lack identity; parking can be a challenge on popular weekends. TripAdvisor: “beautiful and comfortable,” “modern,” “great breakfast.” | Rooms from: $189 | 1450 1st St. | 707/224–3900 | avianapa.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels | 50 rooms, 91
suites.
Blackbird Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | Arts and Crafts style infuses this 1905 building, from the lobby’s enormous fieldstone fireplace to the lamps that cast a warm glow over the impressive wooden staircase to the attractive guest rooms, with sturdy turn-of-the-20th-century oak beds and matching night tables. But never fear, rooms are nonetheless updated with spacious, modern bathrooms, most with spa bathtubs. The inn is within walking distance of Napa’s
historic, restaurant-rich downtown area. It tends to book up quickly, so reserve well in advance. Pros: gorgeous architecture and period furnishings; convenient to downtown Napa; free afternoon wine service. Cons: must be booked well in advance; some rooms are on the small side. | Rooms from: $225 | 1755 1st St. | 94559 | 707/226–2450, 888/567–9811 | www.blackbirdinnnapa.com | 8 rooms.
Fodor’s Choice |
Carneros Inn.
$$$$ | RESORT | Freestanding board-and-batten cottages with rocking chairs on each porch are simultaneously rustic and chic at this luxurious property. Each cottage is flooded with natural light but still manages to maintain privacy, with windows and French doors leading to a private garden, some of which are equipped with fire pits and outdoor soaking tubs. Wood-burning fireplaces, ethereal beds topped with Italian linens and pristine white
down comforters, and spacious bathrooms with heated slate floors and large indoor-outdoor showers may make it difficult to summon the will to leave the cottage and enjoy the hilltop infinity swimming pool and hot tub. The Hilltop dining room, with views of the neighboring vineyards, is open to guests only for breakfast and lunch Friday through Sunday, but Boon Fly Cafe and FARM, the public restaurants, are popular with visitors throughout the Wine Country. Pros: cottages have lots of privacy; beautiful views from the hilltop pool and hot tub; heaters on each private patio encourage lounging outside in the evening. Cons: a long drive from destinations up-valley; smallish rooms with limited seating options. TripAdvisor: “everything you need,” “great vistas,” “beautiful location and relaxing accommodation.” | Rooms
from: $550 | 4048 Sonoma Hwy.
(Hwy. 121) | 94559 | 707/299–4900, 888/400–9000 | www.thecarnerosinn.com | 76 cottages, 10 suites.
Marriott Napa Valley Hotel & Spa.
$ | HOTEL | Ignore the Marriott’s drab front—the outside doesn’t do justice to the polished elegance that awaits within: Italian tile in the foyer, fire pits on the patio, and spa treatments that use crushed grape-seeds and the essence of ripe strawberries and Champagne. Rooms are consistently contemporary with gold and red fabrics, down duvets, and giant white pillows. Those facing the pool open out onto a tranquil garden space. The onsite
VINeleven restaurant harvests fruits and vegetables from the hotel’s heirloom garden. From 5 pm to 6 pm the restaurant hosts a complimentary wine tasting of local Napa Valley wines. Pros: food grown onsite; relaxing pool; extensive spa. Cons: rooms facing the parking lot have disappointing views and can be noisy; hallways are endless; a ten minute drive to downtown Napa. | Rooms from:
$250 | 3425 Solano Ave. | 94558 | 707/253–8600 | www.napavalleymarriott.com | 275 rooms, 5 suites.
Milliken Creek Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Wine and cheese at sunset set a romantic mood in the intimate lobby, with its terrace overlooking the Napa River and a lush lawn. Chic rooms take a page from the stylebook of British-colonial Asia, with a khaki-and-cream color scheme and gauzy canopies over the beds in some rooms, alongside hydrotherapy spa tubs and some of the fluffiest beds in the Wine Country. All rooms save one have a gas-burning fireplace. A tiny
deck overlooking the river is the spot for massages and private yoga classes. In the serene spa, all the treatment rooms, including one used for popular couple’s treatments, have river views. Pros: soft-as-clouds beds; serene hotel-guests-only spa; breakfast delivered to your room (or wherever you’d like to eat on the grounds); gratuities are not accepted (except at the spa). Cons: expensive; road noise can be
heard from the admittedly beautiful outdoor areas. TripAdvisor: “very friendly attentive staff,” “romantic getaway,” “consistent elegance.” | Rooms from: $350 | 1815 Silverado Trail | 94558 | 707/255–1197, 800/835–6112 | www.millikencreekinn.com | 12 rooms.
Napa River Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | Almost everything’s close here: this waterfront inn is part of a complex of restaurants, shops, a gallery, and a spa, all within easy walking distance of downtown Napa. Guest rooms are in three structures. Rooms in the 1884 Hatt Building, in Victorian style, are arguably the most romantic, with deep-red walls, original architectural details such as maple floors, and old-fashioned slipper tubs. Brighter colors dominate in
the rooms of the Plaza and Embarcadero buildings; many of the rooms have river views. Baked goods from a neighboring bakery are delivered to your door for breakfast. Pros: a pedestrian walkway connects the hotel to downtown Napa; unusual pet-friendly policy; wide range of room sizes and prices. Cons: river views could be more scenic; some rooms get noise from nearby restaurants. TripAdvisor: “first class,” “great location,” “clean and comfortable.” | Rooms from: $300 | 500 Main St. | 94559 | 707/251–8500, 877/251–8500 | www.napariverinn.com | 65 rooms, 1 suite.
Westin Verasa.
$ | HOTEL | Across the street from the Wine Train depot and just behind the Oxbow Public Market, this spacious hotel-condo complex, opened in 2008, is sophisticated and soothing, with pristine white bedding and furniture in warm earth tones. Gadgets like Xbox 360s, iPod docking stations, and flat-screen televisions are a convenient perk for the technologically inclined, while the heated saltwater pool and hot tub and boccie court are there
for those who want to unplug. The attached restaurant, Ken Frank’s acclaimed La Toque, is one of the best in town. It’s open for dinner only, but a more casual café and wine bar is also open for breakfast and lunch. Pros: pool is heated year-round; most rooms have well-equipped kitchenettes; spacious double-headed showers. Cons: $20 “amenities fee” charged in addition to room rate. TripAdvisor: “wonderful property,” “needs a few extra touches,” “great food on-site.” | Rooms from: $239 | 1314 McKinstry St. | 94559 | 707/257–1800, 800/937–8461 | www.westinnapa.com | 130 rooms, 50 suites.
Nightlife and the Arts in Napa
Napa Valley Opera House.
The interior of the 1879 Italianate Victorian Napa Valley Opera House isn’t quite as majestic as the facade, but the intimate 500-seat venue is still an excellent place to see all sorts of performances, from Pat Metheny and Mandy Patinkin to the Napa Valley Film Festival and, yes, even the occasional opera. | 1030 Main St.
at 1st St. | 94559 | 707/226–7372 | www.nvoh.org.
Uptown Theatre.
This Napa icon opened as a movie house in 1937. After years in disrepair, it was renovated and in 2010 reopened as a live-music venue that has attracted the likes of Lucinda Williams and Devo. | 1350 3rd St.
at Franklin St. | 707/259–0123 | www.uptowntheatrenapa.com.
Sports and the Outdoors in Napa
Thanks to the scenic country roads that wind through the region, bicycling is a practically perfect way to get around the Wine Country. And whether you’re interested in an easy spin to a few wineries or a strenuous haul up a mountainside, there’s a way to make it happen. Another fine way to take in the scenery is by kayak. TIP There are almost no designated bike lanes in the Wine Country, though, so be sure to pay attention to traffic.
Napa Valley Adventure Tours.
Operating out of the Oxbow Public Market in downtown Napa, this outfitter offers a variety of half- and full-day outdoor trips, including kayaking along the Napa River in the southern part of the valley. | 610 1st St.
at McKinstry St. | 707/259–1833, 877/548–6877.
Napa Valley Bike Tours.
Napa Valley Bike Tours will deliver the bikes, which go for $39 to $78 a day, to many hotels in the Napa Valley if you’re renting at least two bikes for a full day. In addition to hourly rentals, guided and self-guided winery tours are available. | 6795 Washington St.
at Madison St. | Yountville | 94599 | 707/944–2953 | www.napavalleybiketours.com.
A Quick Wine Glossary
Like any activity, wine making and wine tasting have specialized vocabularies, and most of the terms are actually quite helpful, once you have them down. Here are some core terms to know:
American Viticultural Area (AVA). More commonly termed an “appellation,” this is a region with unique soil, climate, and other grape-growing conditions. When a label lists an appellation—Napa Valley or Mt. Veeder, for example—at least 85% of the grapes used to make the wine must come from that region.
Aroma and bouquet. Aroma is the fruit-derived scent of young wine. It diminishes with fermentation and becomes a more complex bouquet as the wine ages.
Corked. Describes wine that is flawed by the musty, wet-cardboard flavor imparted by cork mold.
Estate bottled. A wine entirely made by one winery at a single facility. The grapes must come from the winery’s own vineyards within the same appellation (which must be printed on the label).
Horizontal tasting. A tasting of several different wines of the same vintage.
Library wine. An older vintage that the winery has put aside to sell at a later date.
Méthode champenoise. The traditional, time-consuming method of making sparkling wines that are fermented in individual bottles.
Oaky. A vanilla-woody flavor that develops when wine is aged in oak barrels. Too much overpowers the other flavors.
Reserve wine. Fuzzy term applied by vintners to indicate that a wine is better in some way (through aging, source of the grapes, etc.) than others from their winery.
Table wine. Any wine that has at least 7% but not more than 14% alcohol by volume. The term doesn’t necessarily imply anything about the wine’s quality or price—both super-premium and jug wines can be labeled as table wine.
Tannins. These natural grape compounds produce a sensation of drying or astringency in the mouth and throat.
Terroir. A French term typically used to describe the soil and climate conditions that influence the quality and characteristics of grapes and wine.
Varietal. A wine that takes its name from the grape variety from which it is predominantly made. California wines that qualify are almost always labeled with the variety of the source grape.
Vertical tasting. A tasting of the same wines from different vintages.
Vinification. Wine making, the process by which grapes are made into wine.
Vintage. The grape harvest of a given year, and the year in which the grapes are harvested. A vintage date on a bottle indicates the year in which the grapes were harvested rather than the year in which the wine was bottled.
Viticulture. The cultivation of grapes.
Yountville
13 miles north of the town of Napa on Hwy. 29.
These days Yountville is something like Disneyland for food lovers. It all started with Thomas Keller’s French Laundry, simply one of the best restaurants in the United States. Now Keller is also behind two more-casual restaurants a few blocks from his mother ship—and that’s only the tip of the iceberg. You could stay here for a week and not exhaust all the options in this tiny town with a big culinary reputation.
Yountville is full of small inns and high-end hotels that cater to those who prefer to walk (not drive) after an extravagant meal. It’s also well located for excursions to many big-name Napa wineries, especially those in the Stags Leap District, from which big, bold Cabernet Sauvignons helped put the Napa Valley on the wine-making map.
Getting Here and Around
To get to Yountville from Highway 29 traveling north, take the Yountville exit and then take the first left, onto Washington Street. Almost all of Yountville’s business and restaurants are clustered along Washington Street in the first half-mile. Yountville Cross Road connects tiny downtown Yountville to the Silverado Trail, along which many of the area’s best wineries are located.
Exploring Yountville
Domaine Chandon.
On a knoll west of downtown dotted with whimsical sculptures and shaded with ancient oak trees, this French-owned winery claims one of Yountville’s prime pieces of real estate. Basic tours of the sleek, modern facilities are available for $12 (not including a tasting), but other tours ($32 each), which focus on various topics (food-and-wine pairing or Pinot production, for example), end with a seated tasting. The top-quality sparklers are made using the laborious méthode champenoise. For the complete experience, order hors d’oeuvres to accompany the wines in the tasting room; although Chandon is best known for its bubblies, still wines like the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier are also worth a try. Only wine club members are welcome to bring young children. | 1 California Dr.
west of Hwy. 29 | 94599 | 707/944–2280, 888/242–6366 | www.chandon.com | Tasting $8–$22 by the glass, $18–$25 by the flight | Daily 10–5; tours daily at 11:30, 3:30.
Napa Valley Museum.
Although it’s not worth a long detour, this small museum, next to Domaine Chandon on the grounds of the town’s Veterans Home, is a great respite from a day of wine tasting. Downstairs, the permanent exhibit, The Land and People of Napa Valley, focuses on the geology and history of the area, from the Native Americans who once lived here through the pioneer period to the modern winemakers who made it famous. The rotating fine-arts shows upstairs feature the work of Napa
Valley artists. The museum also hosts regular Family Fun Days, which include arts-and-crafts projects for young kids. | 55 Presidents Circle
at California Dr. | 94599 | 707/944–0500 | www.napavalleymuseum.org | $10 | Wed.–Mon. 10–5.
Robert Sinskey Vineyards.
Although the winemaker here produces well-regarded Cabernet blends and a variety of aromatic white wines from all-organic, certified biodynamic vineyards, Sinskey is best known for its intense, brambly Pinot Noirs, grown in the cooler Carneros District, where the grape thrives. The influence of Rob’s wife, Maria Helm Sinskey—a chef and cookbook author and the winery’s culinary director—is evident during the tastings, which come with a few bites of food paired with each
wine (her books and other culinary items are also available in the gift shop, next to the open kitchen). But for the best sense of how Sinskey wines pair with food, reserve a spot on the ($75) culinary tour, which takes you through the winery’s gardens and ends with a seated pairing of foods and wine. | 6320 Silverado Trail
at Yountville Cross Rd. | Napa | 94558 | 707/944–9090 | www.robertsinskey.com | Tasting $25; tour $75 | Daily 10–4:30; tours daily at 11 (by appointment).
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars.
The 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon produced by Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars put the winery—and the Napa Valley—on the map by placing first in the famous Paris tasting of 1976. Today, a visit to the winery is a no-frills affair. Visitors in the tasting room are clearly serious about tasting wine, and aren’t interested in distractions like a gift shop. It costs $30 to taste the top-of-the-line wines, including the limited-production estate-grown Cabernets, a few of which sell for
well over $100. If you’re interested in more-modestly priced wines, try the $15 tasting, which usually includes a Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet. (Note: Don’t conflate this winery with Stag’s Leap; that’s a different operation entirely.) | 5766 Silverado Trail
at Wappo Hill Rd. | Napa | 94558 | 707/944–2020, 866/422–7523 | www.cask23.com | Tasting $15–$30, tour $40 | Daily 10–4:30; tours by appointment.
V Marketplace.
In between bouts of eating and drinking, you might stop by V Marketplace. The vine-covered brick complex, which once housed a winery, a livery stable, and a brandy distillery, contains a smattering of clothing boutiques, art galleries, and gift stores. NapaStyle, a large store, deli, and wine bar, sells cookbooks, luxury food items, and kitchenware, as well as an assortment of prepared foods perfect for picnics. The complex’s signature restaurant, Bottega, features the
food of celebrity chef Michael Chiarello. | 6525 Washington St.
near Mulberry St. | 94599 | 707/944–2451 | www.vmarketplace.com.
Where to Eat in Yountville
Fodor’s Choice |
Ad Hoc.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | When superstar chef Thomas Keller opened this relatively casual spot in 2006, he meant to run it for only six months until he opened a burger joint in the same space, but locals were so charmed by the homey food that they clamored for the stopgap to stay. Now a single, seasonal, fixed-price menu ($52) is served nightly, with a small menu of decadent brunch items served on Sunday. The selection might include a juicy
pork loin and buttery polenta, served family style, or a delicate panna cotta with a citrus glaze. The dining room is warmly low-key, with zinc-top tables, wine served in tumblers, and rock and jazz on the stereo. If you just can’t wait to know what’s going be served before you visit, you can call a day in advance for the menu or sign up for daily email blasts. | Average main: $52 | 6476 Washington
St.
at Oak Circle | 94599 | 707/944–2487 | www.adhocrestaurant.com | No lunch Mon.–Sat. No dinner Tues. and Wed.
Bottega.
$$$$ | ITALIAN | The food at this lively trattoria is simultaneously soulful and inventive, transforming local ingredients into regional Italian dishes with a twist. The antipasti in particular shine: you can order olives grown on chef Michael Chiarello’s own property in St. Helena, house-made charcuterie, or an incredibly fresh fish crudo. Potato gnocchi might be served with duck and a chestnut ragu, and hearty main courses like braised
short ribs could come on a bed of spinach prepared with preserved lemons. The vibe is more festival than formal, with exposed brick walls, an open kitchen, and paper-topped tables, but service is spot on, and the reasonably priced wine list offers lots of interesting choices from both Italy and California. | Average main: $35 | 6525 Washington St.
near Mulberry St. | 94599 | 707/945–1050 | www.botteganapavalley.com | No lunch Mon.
Bouchon.
$$$ | FRENCH | The team that brought French Laundry to its current pinnacle is also behind this place, where everything—the lively and crowded zinc bar, the elbow-to-elbow seating, the traditional French onion soup—could have come straight from a Parisian bistro. Roast chicken with mustard greens and fingerling potatoes and steamed mussels served with crispy, addictive frites (french fries) are among the hearty
dishes served in the high-ceilinged room. TIP
Late-night meals from a limited menu are served until midnight—a rarity in the Wine Country, where it’s often difficult to find a place to eat after 10. | Average main: $25 | 6534 Washington St.
near Humboldt St. | 94599 | 707/944–8037 | www.bouchonbistro.com.
Étoile.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | Housed at Domaine Chandon, this quietly elegant stunner seems built for romance, with delicate orchids on each table and views of the wooded winery grounds from the large windows. The restaurant’s young chef Perry Hoffman turns out sophisticated California cuisine. Starters such as lobster carpaccio with pickled carrots play with a variety of textures, and luxe ingredients like shavings of black truffle dress up pappardelle
with maitake mushrooms. Four- and six-course tasting menus can be ordered with or without wine pairings. The wine list naturally features plenty of Domaine Chandon sparklers, but it’s strong in wines from throughout other regions of California as well. | Average main: $34 | 1 California Dr.
at Hwy. 29 | 94599 | 888/242–6366 | www.chandon.com/etoile-restaurant | Closed Tues. and Wed.
Fodor’s Choice |
French Laundry.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | An old stone building laced with ivy houses the most acclaimed restaurant in Napa Valley—and, indeed, one of the most highly regarded in the country. The restaurant’s two nine-course prix-fixe menus (both $270), one of which is vegetarian, vary, but “oysters and pearls,” a silky dish of pearl tapioca with oysters and white sturgeon caviar, is a signature starter. Some courses rely on luxe ingredients like foie gras, while
others take humble foods like fava beans and elevate them to art. Many courses also offer the option of “supplements,” such as sea urchin or black truffles. Reservations at French Laundry are hard-won, and not accepted more than two months in advance. TIP
Call two months ahead to the day at 10 am, on the dot. Didn’t get a reservation? Call on the day you’d like to dine here to be considered if there’s a cancellation. | Prix-fixe: $270 | 6640 Washington St.
at Creek St. | 94599 | 707/944–2380 | www.frenchlaundry.com | Reservations essential | Jacket required | No lunch Mon.–Thurs.
Mustards Grill.
$$$ | AMERICAN | There’s not an ounce of pretension at Cindy Pawlcyn’s longtime Napa favorite, despite the fact that it’s filled every day and night with fans of her hearty cuisine. The menu mixes updated renditions of traditional American dishes (what the restaurant likes to call “deluxe truck-stop classics”), such as barbecued baby back pork ribs and a lemon-lime tart piled high with browned meringue, with a handful of more innovative
choices such as sweet corn tamales with tomatillo-avocado salsa and wild mushrooms. A black-and-white marble tile floor and upbeat artwork set a scene that one Fodors.com reader describes as “pure fun, if not fancy.” | Average main: $25 | 7399 St. Helena Hwy.
(Hwy. 29), 1 mile north of town | 94558 | 707/944–2424 | www.mustardsgrill.com.
Where to Stay in Yountville
Bardessono.
$$$$ | RESORT | Although Bardessono bills itself as the “greenest luxury hotel in America,” there’s nothing spartan about its large, sparce rooms. Arranged around four landscaped courtyards, the rooms have luxurious organic white bedding, gas fireplaces, and huge bathrooms with walnut floors. The resort has all the high-tech touches you’d expect for a property that opened in 2009—speakers for your iPhone, a flat-screen TV, and fancy spa
tubs—and a few you wouldn’t, like motion sensors that detect when you’re gone and adjust the blinds for energy efficiency. Service is smooth, from the valet who takes your car to the folks who staff the 75-foot-long rooftop lap pool, serving food and drinks to those lounging in the cabanas. At the hotel’s restaurant, chefs use mostly local ingredients (some grown by the hotel itself) to concoct a seasonal menu of California fare with an adventurous twist. Pros: large rooftop lap pool; exciting restaurant on-site; polished service. Cons: expensive; the view from many rooms is uninspiring. TripAdvisor: “long weekend in paradise,” “an exquisite favorite,” “heavenly beds.” | Rooms from: $500 | 6526 Yount St. | 94599 | 707/204–6000
| www.bardessono.com | 50 rooms, 12 suites.
Hotel Luca.
$$$ | B&B/INN | This 20-room Yountville inn that opened in 2009 embodies a rustic Tuscan style, with dark-wood furniture and soothing decor in brown and sage. Rooms are clustered around a courtyard, which is warmed by a fireplace when the weather demands it. Uncommonly spacious bathrooms with large tubs and separate showers, warmed by radiant floor heating, invite lingering in the fluffy robes and slippers. A wide variety of spa services
are available in the small spa or in your room. Pros: extremely comfortable beds; attentive service; breakfast, included in rates, is served in the restaurant or delivered to your room. Cons: rooms are soundproofed, but outdoor areas get some traffic noise. TripAdvisor: “most comfortable bed in the world,” “impeccable service,” “laid-back luxury.” | Rooms from:
$350 | 6757 Washington St. | 94599 | 707/944–8080 | www.hotellucanapa.com | 20 rooms | Breakfast.
Maison Fleurie.
$ | B&B/INN | If you’d like to be within easy walking distance of most of Yountville’s best restaurants, and possibly score a great bargain, look into this casual, comfortable inn. Rooms share a French country style (picture toile bedspreads, wooden armoires, and trompe-l’oeil paintings on the walls) but vary dramatically in size and amenities. The largest have a private entrance, a deck, a fireplace, and a jetted bathtub big enough for
two. TIP
For a much lower rate, book one of the tiny but well-kept rooms with a small shower but no bathtub—and save for a French Laundry meal instead.
Pros: smallest rooms are some of the most affordable in town; free bike rental; refrigerator stocked with free bottled water and soda. Cons: breakfast room can be crowded at peak times; bedding could be nicer. TripAdvisor: “very cozy and romantic,” “very relaxing,” “charming.” | Rooms from: $175 | 6529 Yount St. | 94599 | 707/944–2056, 800/788–0369 | www.maisonfleurienapa.com | 13 rooms | Breakfast.
Napa Valley Railway Inn.
$ | HOTEL | Budget-minded travelers and those with kids appreciate these very basic accommodations—inside actual railcars—just steps away from most of Yountville’s best restaurants. The railcars, more than a hundred years old, house nine long, narrow rooms that have a bit more charm than your average motel. Most have armoires or other turn-of-the-20th-century furniture, as well as small flat-panel TVs and sparkling-clean bathrooms. A coffee
shop in an adjacent railcar sells beverages and pastries. Pros: central Yountville location; guests have access to adjacent gym. Cons: minimal service, since the office is often unstaffed; rooms on the parking-lot side get some noise. TripAdvisor: “a gem in Yountville,” “great carriages,” “great location.” | Rooms from: $175 | 6523
Washington St. | 94599 | 707/944–2000 | www.napavalleyrailwayinn.com | 9 rooms.
Villagio Inn & Spa.
$$$ | RESORT | The luxury here is quiet and refined: streamlined furnishings, subdued color schemes, and high ceilings create a sense of spaciousness in the guest rooms, each of which has a fireplace and, beyond louvered doors, a balcony or a patio. The spa has huge “suites” big enough for small groups, as well as individual treatment rooms, spread out over 13,000 square feet. Rates include high-speed and wireless Internet access, a bottle
of wine, and a generous buffet breakfast—and as the hotel is near the town center, you’ll be right next to all those outstanding restaurants. Pros: amazing buffet breakfast; no extra charge for hotel guests to use the spa facilities; steps away from Yountville’s best restaurants. Cons: can be bustling with large groups; you can hear highway noise from many of the rooms’ balconies or patios. TripAdvisor: “perfect place for wine and food lovers,” “extra perks,” “heaven in Yountville.” | Rooms from: $375 | 6481 Washington St. | 94599 | 707/944–8877, 800/351–1133 | www.villagio.com | 86 rooms, 26 suites | Breakfast.
Vintage Inn.
$$$ | RESORT | Rooms in this lavish inn are housed in two-story villas scattered around a lush, landscaped 3½-acre property. French fabrics and plump upholstered chairs outfit the spacious, airy guest rooms. Those on the second floor have vaulted beam ceilings, and all have a private patio or balcony, a fireplace, and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom. Some private patios have vineyard views. Rates include a bottle of wine, a buffet breakfast,
and high-speed and wireless Internet access. Pros: spacious bathrooms with spa tubs; lavish breakfast buffet; luscious bedding. Cons: highway noise is audible in some exterior rooms; pool area is smaller than the one at its sister property, the Villagio Inn & Spa. TripAdvisor: “lovely grounds,” “well located hotel with comfortable amenities,” “quiet place to stay.” | Rooms from: $350 | 6541 Washington St. | 94599 | 707/944–1112 | www.vintageinn.com | 68 rooms, 12 suites | Breakfast.
Oakville
2 miles west of Yountville on Hwy. 29.
There are three reasons to visit the town of Oakville: its gourmet grocery store; its scenic mountain road; and its magnificent, highly exclusive wineries.
Getting Here and Around
Those driving along Highway 29 will know they’ve reached Oakville when they see the Oakville Grocery on the east side of the road. Here the Oakville Cross Road provides access to the Silverado Trail, which runs parallel to Highway 29. Oakville wineries are scattered along Highway 29, Oakville Cross Road, and the Silverado Trail in roughly equal measure.
You can reach Oakville from the town of Glen Ellen in Sonoma County by heading east on Trinity Road from Highway 12. The twisting route, along the mountain range that divides Napa and Sonoma, eventually becomes the Oakville Grade. The views of both valleys on this drive are breathtaking, though the continual curves make it unsuitable for those who suffer from motion sickness.
Exploring Oakville
Fodor’s Choice |
Far Niente.
Though the fee for the combined tour and tasting is at the high end, Far Niente is especially worth visiting if you’re tired of elbowing your way through crowded tasting rooms and are looking for a more personal experience. Here you’re welcomed by name and treated to a glimpse of one of the most beautiful Napa properties. Small groups are shepherded through the historic 1885 stone winery, including some of the 40,000 square feet of caves, for a lesson on the
labor-intensive method for making Far Niente’s two wines, a Cabernet blend and a Chardonnay. (The latter is made without undergoing malolactic fermentation, so it doesn’t have that buttery taste that’s characteristic of many California Chards.) The next stop is the Carriage House, where you can see the founder’s gleaming collection of classic cars. The tour zips by the property’s floating solar panel installation upon request, and ends back in the tasting room with a seated
tasting of wines and cheeses. | 1350 Acacia Dr.
off Oakville Grade Rd. | 94562 | 707/944–2861, 800/363-6523 | www.farniente.com | $50 | Tasting and tour by appointment.
Oakville Grocery.
Built in 1881 as a general store, this popular spot carries unusual and high-end groceries and prepared foods. Unbearable crowds pack the narrow aisles on weekends, but it’s still a fine place to sit on a bench out front and sip an espresso between winery visits. | 7856 St. Helena Hwy.
(Hwy. 29) | 94562 | 707/944–8802.
Opus One.
The combined venture of the late California winemaker Robert Mondavi and the late French Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Opus One produces only one wine: a big, inky Bordeaux blend that was the first of Napa’s ultra-premium wines, fetching unheard-of prices before it was overtaken by cult wines like Screaming Eagle. The winery’s futuristic limestone-clad structure, built into the hillside, seems to be pushing itself out of the earth. Although the tours, which focus on why
it costs so much to produce this exceptional wine, can come off as “stuffy” (in the words of one Fodors.com reader), the facilities are undoubtedly impressive, with gilded mirrors, exotic orchids, and a large semicircular cellar modeled on the Château Mouton Rothschild winery in France. You can also taste the current vintage without the tour ($35), as long as you’ve called ahead for a reservation. TIP
Take your glass up to the rooftop terrace if you want to appreciate the views out over the vineyards. | 7900 St. Helena Hwy.
(Hwy. 29) | 94562 | 707/944–9442, 800/292–6787 | www.opusonewinery.com | Tours $50-$70; tastings $35 | Daily 10–4; tasting and tour by appointment.
PlumpJack.
If Opus One is the Rolls-Royce of the Oakville District—expensive, refined, and a little snooty—then PlumpJack is the Mini Cooper: fun, casual, and sporty. With its metal chandelier and wall hangings, the tasting room looks like it could be the stage set for a modern Shakespeare production. (The name “PlumpJack” is a nod to Shakespeare’s Falstaff.) The reserve Chardonnay has a good balance of baked fruit and fresh citrus flavors, while a Merlot is blended with a bit of
Cabernet Sauvignon, giving the wine enough tannins to ensure it can be aged for another five years or more. Visitors also can taste wines from the sister winery, Cade Estate. If the tasting room is crowded, take a breather under the shady arbor on the back patio, where you can enjoy a close-up view of the vines. | 620 Oakville Cross Rd.
off Hwy 29 | 94558 | 707/945–1220 | www.plumpjack.com | Tastings $15 | Daily 10–4.
Robert Mondavi.
The arch at the center of the sprawling Mission-style building here perfectly frames the lawn and the vineyard behind, inviting a stroll under the lovely arcades. You can head straight for one of the two tasting rooms, but if you’ve never taken a winery tour before, the comprehensive Signature Tour and Tasting ($25), which concludes with a seated tasting, is a good way to learn about enology, as well as the late Robert Mondavi’s role in California wine making. Those new
to tasting and mystified by all that swirling and sniffing should consider the 45-minute Wine Tasting Basics experience ($20). Serious wine lovers should consider springing for the one-hour $55 Exclusive Cellar tasting, where a well-informed server pours and explains limited-production, reserve, and older-vintage wines. Concerts, mostly jazz and R&B, take place in summer on the lawn; call ahead for tickets. | 7801 St. Helena Hwy.
(Hwy. 29) | 94562 | 888/766–6328 | www.robertmondaviwinery.com | Tours and tastings $20–$55 | Daily 10–5; tour times vary.
Rutherford
2 miles northwest of Oakville on Hwy. 29.
From a fast-moving car, Rutherford is a quick blur of vineyards and a rustic barn or two, but don’t speed by this tiny hamlet. With its singular microclimate and soil, this is an important viticultural center, with more big-name wineries than you can shake a corkscrew at. Cabernet Sauvignon is king here. The well-drained, loamy soil is ideal for those vines, and since this part of the valley gets plenty of sun, the grapes develop exceptionally intense flavors. The late, great winemaker André Tchelistcheff claimed that “it takes Rutherford dust to grow great Cabernet.”
Getting Here and Around
Wineries around Rutherford are dotted along Highway 29 and the parallel Silverado Trail just north and south of Rutherford Road/Conn Creek Road, which connect these two major thoroughfares.
Exploring Rutherford
Beaulieu Vineyard.
The Cabernet Sauvignon produced at the ivy-covered Beaulieu Vineyard is a benchmark of the Napa Valley. The legendary André Tchelistcheff, who helped define the California style of wine making, worked his magic here from 1938 until his death in 1973. This helps explain why Beaulieu’s flagship, the Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, still garners high marks from major wine publications. The wines being poured in the main tasting room, which might
include anything from a zesty Gewürztraminer to a lush Petite Syrah are notably good. Still, it’s worth the $50 fee to taste that special Cabernet in the less-crowded reserve tasting room. | 1960 St. Helena Hwy.
(Hwy. 29) | 94573 | 707/967–5200, 800/373–5896 | www.bvwines.com | Tasting $15–$50, tour $20 | Daily 10–5.
Cakebread Cellars.
Jack and Dolores Cakebread snapped up the property at Cakebread Cellars in 1973, after Jack fell in love with the area while visiting on a photography assignment. Since then, they’ve been making luscious Chardonnays, as well as Merlot, a great Sauvignon Blanc, and a beautifully complex Cabernet Sauvignon. You must make an appointment for a tasting, for which there are several different options. The most basic usually involves a stroll through the winery’s barrel room
and crush pad and past Dolores’s kitchen garden before ending in a taste of current releases. Other options focus on red, reserve, or library wines, and might take place in the winery’s modern wing, where an elevator is crafted out of a stainless-steel fermentation tank and the ceiling is lined with thousands of corks. | 8300 St. Helena Hwy.
(Hwy 29) | 94573 | 707/963–5222, 800/588–0298 | www.cakebread.com | Tastings $15–$45, tour $25 | Daily 10–4; tasting and tour by appointment.
Caymus Vineyards.
Winemaker Chuck Wagner, who started making wine on the property in 1972, runs this well-regarded winery. His family, however, had been farming in the valley since 1906. Though Caymus makes a fine Zinfandel and (occasionally, a) Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet is the winery’s claim to fame, a ripe, powerful wine that’s known for its consistently high quality. TIP
There’s no tour, and you have to reserve to taste, but it’s still worth planning ahead to visit, because the low-key seated tasting (limited to 10 guests) is a great opportunity to learn about the valley’s Cabernet artistry. | 8700 Conn Creek Rd. | 94573 | 707/967–3010 | www.caymus.com | Tasting $30 | Sales daily 10–4; tasting by appointment.
Fodor’s Choice |
Frog’s Leap.
The owner, John Williams, maintains a goofy sense of humor about wine that translates into an entertaining yet informative experience, making Frog’s Leap the perfect place for wine novices to begin their education. You’ll also find some fine Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé, and also the German dessert wine Trockenbeerenauslese. The winery includes a red barn built in 1884, 5 acres of organic gardens, an eco-friendly visitor
center, and, naturally, a frog pond topped with lily pads. The fun tour ($20) is highly recommended, but you can also just do a seated tasting that takes place on a porch overlooking the garden. | 8815 Conn Creek Rd. | 94573 | 707/963–4704, 800/959–4704 | www.frogsleap.com | Tasting $20, tour $20. |
Daily 10–4; tour by appointment.
Honig Vineyard and Winery.
Sustainable farming is the big story at this small, family-run winery in the heart of Rutherford. Michael Honig, the grandson of founder Louis Honig, helped write the code of Sustainable Practices for the Wine Institute, and was a key player in developing the first certification programs for wineries across California. Some of the modern applications of this mindset: solar panels that generate a majority of the winery’s power and an on-site bee colony that helps with
pollination. Four wines, including a stellar Cabernet Sauvignon and a renowned Sauvignon Blanc, reflect this commitment to excellence. Because the Honigs have three young children, the winery is incredibly family-friendly, with a special area for toddlers to play. | 850 Rutherford Rd. | 800/929–2217 | www.honigwine.com | Tasting
$10 | Daily 10–4:30, tastings by appointment only.
Inglenook.
It’s the house The Godfather built. Literally. Filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola began his wine-making career in 1975, when he bought part of the historic, renowned Inglenook estate. He eventually reunited the original Inglenook land and purchased the ivy-covered 19th-century château to boot. In 2006 he renamed the property Rubicon Estate, intending to focus on his premium wines, including the namesake Cabernet Sauvignon–based blend. (The less
expensive wines are showcased at the Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Sonoma County’s Geyserville.) Then, in 2011, he renamed the place Inglenook. Various tours cover topics that include the estate’s history, the Rutherford climate and geology, and the sensory evaluation of wine. Two distinctly different tastings are held in an opulent, high-ceilinged tasting room. The Bistro, an on-site bistro, has seating in a picturesque courtyard. | 1991 St. Helena
Hwy.
(Hwy. 29) | 95473 | 707/968–1100, 800/782–4266 | www.inglenook.com | Tastings $25–$50, tours free–$95 | Daily 10–5; call for tour times.
Mumm Napa.
Although this is one of California’s best-known sparkling-wine producers, enjoying the bubbly from the light-filled tasting room—available in either single flutes or by the flight—isn’t the only reason to visit Mumm. There’s also an excellent photography gallery with 30 Ansel Adams prints and rotating exhibits that feature local photographers. You can even take that glass of wonderfully crisp Brut Rosé with you as you wander. For a leisurely tasting of a flight of
library wines while seated on their outdoor terrace ($30), reserve in advance. | 8445 Silverado Trail | 94558 | 707/967–7700 | www.mummnapa.com | Tasting $7–$65, tour free–$20 | Daily 10–4:45; tour daily at 10 (free; tasting not included), 11, 1, and 3 ($20, tasting
included).
Round Pond.
This winery makes Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and a host of other wines, but it’s not all grapevines here—you can switch your focus to olives at will. The small farm grows five varieties of Italian olives and three types of Spanish olives. Within an hour of being handpicked, the olives are crushed in the mill on the property to produce pungent, peppery oils that are later blended and sold. Call at least a day or two in advance to arrange a tour of the mill,
followed by an informative tasting, during which you can sample several types of oil, both alone and with Round Pond’s own red-wine vinegars and other tasty foods. TIP
If you visit between mid-November and the end of December, you might be lucky enough to see the mill in action. | 875 Rutherford Rd. | 94573 | 707/302–2575, 888/302–2575 | www.roundpond.com | Tour $30 | Tour by appointment.
Rutherford Hill Winery.
A Merlot lover’s paradise in a Cabernet Sauvignon world. When the winery’s founders were deciding what grapes to plant, they discovered that the climate and soil conditions of their vineyards resembled those of Pomerol, a region of Bordeaux where Merlot is king. The wine caves here are some of the most extensive of any California winery—nearly a mile of tunnels and passageways. You can get a glimpse of the tunnels and the 5,000 barrels inside on the tours, then cap your
visit with a picnic in their oak or olive groves. With views over the valley from a perch high on a hill, the picnic grounds are more charming than many others in Napa, which tend to be rather close to one of the busy thoroughfares. | 200 Rutherford Hill Rd.
east of Silverado Trail | 94573 | 707/963–1871 | www.rutherfordhill.com | Tasting $15–$30, tour $25-$40 | Daily 10–5; tours daily at 11:30, 1:30, and 3:30.
St. Supéry.
Major renovations in 2012 transformed the tasting experience at this Rutherford hotspot from exclusive to ultra-exclusive. The winery now offers several small venues and patios for private tastings of library Cabernet Sauvignon wines. At other, more traditional, sampling sessions, the pours might include Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Chardonnay, and even Cabernet Franc or Petit Verdot wines. The tours here provide behind-the-scenes perspectives; the tour that ends with a
tasting in the 1882 Queen Anne Victorian is worth the $50 admission. Outside, a small demonstration vineyard allows you to contemplate the variations among grape types and even taste the grapes when they’re in season. | 8440 St. Helena Hwy.
(Hwy. 29) | 94573 | 707/963–4507, 800/942–0809 | www.stsupery.com | Tastings $15–$25, tours $25–$50 | Daily 10–5.
Where to Stay in Rutherford
Auberge du Soleil.
$$$$ | RESORT | Taking a cue from the olive-tree-studded landscape, this hotel with a renowned restaurant and spa cultivates a luxurious Mediterranean look—earth-tone tile floors, heavy wood furniture, and terra-cotta colors—and backs it up with lavish amenities such as flat-screen TVs (in both the rooms and bathrooms), private terraces, jetted soaking tubs, and extra-large showers. The Auberge du Soleil restaurant has an impressive wine
list and serves a Mediterranean-inflected menu that relies largely on local produce. In fair weather be sure to ask for a table on the terrace, which has one of the most spectacular views in all the Wine Country. The bar serves less expensive fare until 11 pm nightly. Pros: stunning views over the valley; spectacular pool and spa areas; the most expensive suites are fit for a superstar. Cons: stratospheric prices;
the two least expensive rooms (in the main house) get some noise from the bar and restaurant. TripAdvisor: “exceeded our expectations,” “beautiful property,” “absolutely amazing.” | Rooms from: $650 | 180 Rutherford Hill Rd.
off Silverado Trail north of Hwy. 128 | 94573 | 707/963–1211, 800/348–5406 | www.aubergedusoleil.com | 31 rooms, 21 suites | Breakfast.
St. Helena
2 miles northwest of Oakville on Hwy. 29.
Downtown St. Helena is a symbol of how well life can be lived in the Wine Country. Sycamore trees arch over Main Street (Highway 29), a funnel of outstanding restaurants and tempting boutiques. At the north end of town looms the hulking stone building of the Culinary Institute of America. Weathered stone and brick buildings from the late 1800s give off that gratifying whiff of history.
By the time pioneering winemaker Charles Krug planted grapes in St. Helena around 1860, vineyards already existed in the area. Today the town is hemmed in by wineries, and you could easily spend days visiting vintners within a few miles.
Getting Here and Around
Downtown St. Helena stretches along Highway 29, which is called Main Street here. Many of the shops and restaurants are clustered on two pedestrian-friendly blocks of Main Street, between Pope Street and Adams Street. Wineries in the area are found both north and south of downtown along both Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail, but some of the less touristed and more scenic spots are on the slopes of Spring Mountain, which rises southwest of town.
Exploring St. Helena
Beringer Vineyards.
Arguably the Napa Valley’s most beautiful winery, the 1876 Beringer Vineyards is also the oldest continuously operating property. In 1884 Frederick and Jacob Beringer built the Rhine House Mansion to serve as Frederick’s family home. Today it serves as the reserve tasting room, where you can sample wines surrounded by Belgian art-nouveau hand-carved oak and walnut furniture and stained-glass windows. The assortment includes a limited-release Chardonnay, a few big
Cabernets, and a luscious white dessert wine named Nightingale. Another, less expensive tasting takes place in the original stone winery. TIP
If you’re looking for an undiscovered gem, pass this one by, but first-time visitors to the valley will learn a lot about the region’s wine-making history on the introductory tour. Longer tours, which might pass through a demonstration vineyard or end with a seated tasting in the Rhine House, are also offered. | 2000 Main St.
(Hwy. 29) | 94574 | 707/963–4812 | www.beringer.com | Tastings $15–$40, tour $20–$30 | May 29–Oct. 22, daily 10–6; Oct. 23–May 28, daily 10–5; call for tour times.
Charles Krug Winery.
The first winery founded in the Napa Valley, Charles Krug Winery, opened in 1861 when Count Haraszthy lent Krug a small cider press. Today the family of Peter Mondavi (Robert’s brother) runs it. Though the tasting room is modest, the knowledgeable and friendly servers ensure a relaxed visit. The winery is best known for its lush red Bordeaux blends, but its Zinfandel is also good—or go for something unusual with the New Zealand–style Sauvignon Blanc. Its zingy flavor of
citrus and tropical fruit is rare in wines from this area. The picnic area behind the tasting room has a view of the redwood cellar (not open to the public), where the wines are aged. | 2800 N. Main St.
(Hwy. 29) | 94574 | 707/967–2200 | www.charleskrug.com | Tastings $15–$25 | Daily 10:30–5.
Culinary Institute of America.
The West Coast headquarters of the Culinary Institute of America, the country’s leading school for chefs, are in the Greystone Winery, an imposing building that was the largest stone winery in the world when it was built in 1889. On the ground floor you can check out the quirky corkscrew display and shop at a well-stocked culinary store that tempts aspiring chefs with gleaming gadgets and an impressive selection of cookbooks. Attached to
the store, at the Flavor Bar, you can experience a guided tasting ($10 to $15) of certain types of ingredients (for example, chocolate or olive oil) to gain a greater understanding of them. Upstairs, if no special events are taking place, you can browse the Vintners Hall of Fame, where plaques fastened to 2,200-gallon redwood wine barrels commemorate winemakers past and present. One-hour cooking demonstrations ($20; reservations required) take place on Saturday and Sunday. |
2555 Main St.
(Hwy. 29) | 94574 | 707/967–1100 | www.ciachef.edu/california | Free | Restaurant Sun.–Thurs. 11:30–9, Fri. and Sat. 11:30–10; store and museum daily 10:30–6.
Fodor’s Choice |
Joseph Phelps Vineyards.
Although an appointment is required to taste here, it’s worth the trouble. In fair weather the casual, self-paced wine tastings are held on the terrace of a huge, modern barnlike building with stunning views down the slopes over oak trees and orderly vines. Though the Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier are good, the blockbuster wines are reds. The 2002 vintage of the flagship wine, a Bordeaux-style blend called Insignia, was selected as Wine
Spectator’s wine of the year, immediately pushing up prices and demand. Luckily, you’ll get a taste of the current vintage of Insignia (which goes for around $200 a bottle). Ninety-minute tasting seminars, available by appointment, are $40. The popular blending seminar, during which you get to try your hand at mixing the various varietals that go into their Insignia blend, is $60. | 200 Taplin Rd.
off Silverado Trail | 94574 | 707/963–2745, 800/707–5789 | www.jpvwines.com | Tastings $25–$60 | Weekdays 9–5, weekends 10–4; tastings by appointment only.
Spring Mountain Vineyard.
Hidden off a winding road behind a security gate, Spring Mountain Vineyard has the feeling of a private estate in the countryside, even though it’s only a few miles from downtown St. Helena. Though Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Syrah are produced, the calling card here is Cabernet—big, chewy wines that demand some time in the bottle but promise great things. A tasting of current releases ($25) gives you a good sense of the wines’ charms, but consider opting for the
estate ($40) or reserve tasting ($50), either of which includes a meander through the beautiful property, from the cellars to the beautifully preserved 1885 mansion. | 2805 Spring Mountain Rd.
off Madrona Ave. | 94574 | 707/967–4188, 877/769–4637 | www.springmountainvineyard.com | Tastings $25–$50 | Daily 10–4. Tastings by appointment only.
Where to Eat in St. Helena
Farmstead.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Housed in a former nursery barn, Farmstead revolves around an open kitchen where chef Stephen Barber cooks with as many local and organic ingredients as possible. Many of them—including grass-fed beef, vegetables, extra-virgin olive oil, and honey—come from the property of parent company Long Meadow Ranch. Others are sourced from within a 30-mile radius. On Tuesday, two-course meals ($35) include comfort food such as
chicken-fried steak, ribs, or fried chicken and dessert. In warm weather, you can dine on an open-air patio beneath apple trees. Instead of charging a corkage fee, Farmstead collects $2 per bottle to donate to a local non-profit organization. | Average main: $35 | 738 Main St.
at Charter Oak Ave. | 707/963–4555, 877/627–2645 | www.longmeadowranch.com/Farmstead-Restaurant.
Gott’s Roadside.
$$ | AMERICAN | A slick 1950s-style outdoor hamburger stand (formerly known as Taylor’s Refresher) goes upscale at this hugely popular spot, where locals are willing to brave long lines to order breakfast sandwiches, juicy burgers, root-beer floats, and garlic fries. You’ll also find plenty of choices not available a half century ago, such as the ahi tuna burger and the chicken club with pesto mayo. Try to arrive early or late for lunch, or
all the shaded picnic tables on the lawn might be filled. | Average main: $15 | 933 Main St.
(Hwy. 29) | 94574 | 707/963–3486 | www.gotts.com.
Market.
$$ | AMERICAN | Comfort reigns at this understated-yet-modern eatery. Executive chef and owner Eduardo Martinez spruces up American classics such as crab Louis, made with local Dungeness crab, and fried chicken served with jalapeño corn bread. Sunday brunch is popular, with locals frequently lining up outside the door. For the most relaxed experience, stroll in at lunchtime midweek and linger over local wine from the extensive list. | Average main: $18 | 1347 Main St.
Hunt and Adams Sts. | 707/963–3799 | marketsthelena.com.
Fodor’s Choice |
The Restaurant at Meadowood.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | Chef Christopher Kostow has garnered rave reviews for transforming seasonal local products (some grown right on the property) into elaborate, elegant fare. The “composition of carrots,” constructed of the tiniest carrots imaginable accompanied by delicate shavings of chocolate, foie gras, and candied tangerine (it sounds odd, but it works) is just one example of Kostow’s inventiveness and playfulness. Other dishes, such as
slow-cooked black cod with chorizo and lamb, demonstrate an earthier approach. The chef’s menu ($225, $430 with wine pairings), composed of (roughly) seven courses, is the best way to appreciate the experience, but the gracious and well-trained servers provide some of the best service in the valley even if you’re ordering a less extravagant four- or five-course menu (prices here start at $125, $230 with wine). The warm lighting and well-spaced tables in the dining room, which
was renovated in early 2012, makes it a top choice for a romantic tête-à-tête. | Prix-fixe: $125 | 900 Meadowood La. | 94574 | 707/967–1205, 800/458–8080 | www.meadowood.com | Closed Sun. No lunch.
Terra.
$$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | St. Helena may have newer, flashier, and more dramatic restaurants, but for old-school romance and service, many diners return year after year to this quiet favorite in an 1884 fieldstone building. Since 1988, chef Hiro Sone has been giving unexpected twists to Italian and southern French cuisine in dishes such as the mussel soup with caramelized onions and garlic croutons, heavily perfumed with the scent of saffron. A
few, like the signature sake-marinated black cod in a shiso broth, draw on Sone’s Japanese background. Homey yet elegant desserts, courtesy of Sone’s wife, Lissa Doumani, might include a chocolate caramel tart topped with fleur de sel. Next door, Bar Terra serves inventive cocktails and local wines. | Average main: $35 | 1345 Railroad Ave.
off Hunt Ave. | 94574 | 707/963–8931 | www.terrarestaurant.com | Closed Tuesday; No lunch.
Wine Spectator Greystone Restaurant.
$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | The Culinary Institute of America runs this place in the Greystone Winery, which also once served as the Christian Brothers Winery. Century-old stone walls encase a spacious restaurant that bustles at both lunch and dinner, with several cooking stations in full view. On busy nights you may find the hard-at-work chefs more entertaining than your dining companions. The tables on the terrace,
shaded by red umbrellas, are away from the action, but on fair days they’re even more appealing, providing a panoramic view down the hillside. The menu has a Mediterranean spirit and emphasizes locally grown produce. Typical main courses include prosciutto-wrapped cod and house-made pasta with trumpet mushrooms and a sherry cream sauce. | Average main: $25 | 2555 Main St.
(Hwy. 29) | 94574 | 707/967–1010 | www.ciachef.edu/restaurants/wsgr/.
Where to Stay in St. Helena
El Bonita Motel.
$ | HOTEL | Only in St. Helena would a basic room in a roadside motel cost around $200 a night in high season, but for budget-minded travelers the tidy rooms here are pleasant enough, and the landscaped grounds and picnic tables elevate this property over similar places. There’s even a small sauna next to the hot tub and swimming pool, which is heated year-round. TIP
Family-friendly pluses include roll-away beds and cribs for a modest charge. To avoid highway noise, light sleepers should ask for rooms farthest from the road.
Pros: cheerful rooms; hot tub; microwaves and mini-refrigerators. Cons: road noise is a problem in some rooms. TripAdvisor: “wonderful budget bargain,” “comfortable place to stay,” “great location.” | Rooms from: $149 | 195 Main St.
(Hwy. 29) | 94574 | 707/963–3216, 800/541–3284 | www.elbonita.com | 38 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice |
Meadowood Resort.
$$$$ | RESORT | A rambling lodge and several gray clapboard bungalows are scattered across this sprawling property, giving it an exclusive New England feel, and every unit runs seamlessly—starting with the gatehouse staff, who alert the front desk to arrivals. Exquisite guest rooms have views over these wooded grounds from expansive windows. Cozy fireplaces—as well as supremely comfortable beds—defy you to get up and pursue the golf, tennis,
hiking, croquet (yes, croquet), or other activities on offer. In recent years the elegant but unstuffy dining room has won rave reviews, becoming a destination restaurant. Pros: site of one of Napa’s best restaurants; lovely hiking trails on the property; the most gracious service in all of Napa. Cons: very expensive; far from shops in downtown St. Helena. TripAdvisor: “wonderful
property in a great location,” “very quiet and romantic,” “over-the-top service.” | Rooms from: $525 | 900 Meadowood La. | 94574 | 707/963–3646, 800/458–8080 | www.meadowood.com | 85 rooms, suites and cottages.
Wine Country Inn & Gardens.
$ | B&B/INN | A pastoral landscape of vine-covered hills surrounds this retreat, which was styled after the traditional New England inns its owners liked to visit in the 1970s—rooms are decorated with homey furniture like four-poster beds, and most have a wood-burning or gas fireplace, a large jetted tub, and a patio or balcony overlooking the vineyards. A hearty breakfast is served buffet-style in the sun-splashed common room, and
complimentary wine and appetizers are available in the afternoon next to the wood-burning cast-iron stove. Though it’s not the most stylish lodging in the area, the thoughtful staff and the vineyard views from several rooms encourage many people to return year after year. Pros: free shuttle to some restaurants (reserve early); lovely grounds; swimming pool is heated year-round. Cons: some rooms let in noise from
neighbors; some areas could use updating. TripAdvisor: “helpful staff,” “quiet cozy country inn,” “rustic feel.” | Rooms from: $250 | 1152 Lodi La.
east of Hwy. 29 | 94574 | 707/963–7077, 888/465–4608 | www.winecountryinn.com | 24 rooms, 5 cottages | Breakfast.
Shopping in St. Helena
Baksheesh.
A member of the Fair Trade Federation, this funky store sells imported art, crafts, textiles, and other items from countries in Africa, Asia, and South America. | 1327 Main St.
at Hunt Ave. | 707/968–9182.
Dean & Deluca.
A branch of the famous Manhattan store, this upscale shop is crammed with everything you need in the kitchen—including terrific produce and deli items—as well as a large wine selection. | 607 St. Helena Hwy.
(Hwy. 29) | 94574 | 707/967–9980.
Spice Islands Marketplace.
This fun store inside the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone is the place to shop for cookbooks, kitchenware, and everything else related to cooking and preparing food. | Culinary Institute of America
2555 Main St.
(Hwy. 29) | 94574 | 888/424–2433, 707/967–2309.
Woodhouse Chocolate.
Elaborate confections handmade on the premises are displayed like miniature works of art at this lovely shop that resembles an 18th-century Parisian salon. | 1367 Main St.
(Hwy. 29) | 94574 | 707/963–8413, 800/966–3468.
Calistoga
3 miles northwest of St. Helena on Hwy. 29.
With false-fronted, Old West–style shops, 19th-century hotels, and unpretentious cafés lining Lincoln Avenue, the town’s main drag, Calistoga has a slightly rough-and-tumble feel that’s unique in the Napa Valley. It comes across as more down-to-earth than some of the polished towns to the south. And it’s easier to find a bargain here, making it a handy home base for exploring the surrounding vineyards and back roads.
Ironically, Calistoga was developed as a swell, tourist-oriented getaway. In 1859 maverick entrepreneur Sam Brannan snapped up 2,000 acres of prime property and laid out a resort, intending to use the area’s natural hot springs as the main attraction. Brannan’s gamble didn’t pay off as he’d hoped, but the hotels and bathhouses won a local following. Many of them are still going, and you can come for an old-school experience of a mud bath or a dip in a warm spring-fed pool.
Getting Here and Around
To get to downtown Calistoga from anywhere farther south in the valley, take Highway 29 north and then turn right on Lincoln Avenue. Most of the town’s sights are found along a five-block stretch of Lincoln Avenue, or just off one of the side streets that intersect it. After about a mile, Lincoln Avenue (which changes names to Lake County Highway) intersects with the Silverado Trail.
Exploring Calistoga
Castello di Amorosa.
Possibly the most astounding sight in Napa Valley is your first glimpse of the Castello di Amorosa, which looks like a medieval castle, complete with drawbridge and moat, chapel, stables, and secret passageways. Some of the 107 rooms contain replicas of 13th-century frescoes, and the dungeon has an actual iron maiden from Nuremberg, Germany. You must pay for the tour ($33 or $43, depending on the wine you taste) to see the most of the extensive eight-level property,
though basic tastings ($18 or $28) include access to a small portion of the astounding complex. All experiences include a sample of several Italian-style wines, including a “super Tuscan,” a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon that has more heft than your average Italian red. | 4045 N. Saint Helena Hwy.
(Hwy. 29) | 94515 | 707/967–6272 | www.castellodiamorosa.com | Tasting $18–$28, tour $33–$44 | Mar.–Oct., daily 9:30–6; Nov.–Feb., daily 9:30–5; tour by appointment.
Chateau Montelena.
This modest winery in northern Calistoga helped establish the Napa Valley’s reputation for quality wine making when its 1973 Chardonnay took first place at a blind tasting in Paris, shocking the international wine critics in attendance. The 2008 movie Bottle Shock immortalized the event, and the winery milks its cinematic fame with a special tour ($25) that includes a tasting of Chardonnays and a souvenir. More traditional tastings ($20)
occur in the circa-1882 château. These five-wine tastings include two stellar Cabernet Sauvignons and a limited-release Riesling. | 1429 Tubbs La.
off Hwy. 29 | 707/942–5105 | www.montelena.com | Tastings $20–$20, tours $25–$30 | Daily 9:30–4, tours vary.
Clos Pegase.
Designed by postmodern architect Michael Graves, the Clos Pegase winery is a one-of-a-kind “temple to wine and art” packed with unusual art objects from the collection of owner and publishing entrepreneur Jan Shrem. After tasting the wines, which include a bright Sauvignon Blanc, fruity Chardonnays, and mellow Pinot Noirs, Merlots, and Cabernets (they’re made in a soft, approachable style and meant to be drunk somewhat young), be sure to check out the surrealist
paintings near the main tasting room, which include a Jean Dubuffet painting you may have seen on a Clos Pegase label. Better yet, bring a picnic and have lunch in the courtyard, where a curvaceous Henry Moore sculpture is one of about two-dozen works of art. | 1060 Dunaweal La.
off Hwy. 29 | 94515 | 707/942–4981 | www.clospegase.com | Tasting $10–$35, tour $20 | Daily 10:30–5; tour daily at 11:30 and 2.
Indian Springs.
Even before Sam Brannan constructed a spa and mud baths here in the 1860s, the Wapoo Indians were building sweat lodges over the thermal geysers at this, the oldest continually operating pool and spa in California. You can choose from the various spa treatments and volcanic-ash mud baths, after which you can relax in the small Zen-inspired garden out back. Best of all, clients of the spa and guests of the lodge rooms or bungalows have access to the Olympic-size
mineral-water pool, kept at 92°F in summer and a toasty 102°F in winter. | 1712 Lincoln Ave.
at Hwy. 29 | 94515 | 707/942–4913 | www.indianspringscalistoga.com | Daily 9–8.
Robert Louis Stevenson State Park.
Encompassing the summit of Mt. St. Helena, this mostly undeveloped park is home to the area where Stevenson and his bride, Fanny Osbourne, spent their honeymoon in an abandoned bunkhouse of the Silverado Mine. This stay in 1880 inspired the writer’s travel memoir The Silverado Squatters, and Spyglass Hill in Treasure Island is thought to be a portrait of Mt. St. Helena. A marble memorial marks the site of the
bunkhouse. TIP
The hike to the summit is 10 miles round-trip; bring water and dress appropriately. The trail is steep and lacks shade in spots, but the summit is often cool and breezy. | Hwy. 29, 7 miles north of Calistoga | 94515 | 707/942–4575 | www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=472 | Free | Daily sunrise–sunset.
Fodor’s Choice |
Schramsberg.
Founded in the 1860s, Schramsberg, one of Napa’s oldest wineries, produces bubblies made using the traditional méthode champenoise (which means, among other things, that the wine undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle before being “riddled,” or turned every few days over a period of weeks, to nudge the sediment into the neck of the bottle). To taste, you must tour first, but what a tour: in addition to glimpsing the winery’s historic
architecture, you get to tour the underground cellars dug in the late 19th century by Chinese laborers. Down in the caves, a mind-boggling 2 million bottles are stacked in gravity-defying configurations. The tour fee ($45) includes generous pours of several very different sparkling wines, as well as tiny snacks to enhance the experience. | 1400 Schramsberg Rd.
off Hwy. 29 | 94515 | 707/942–4558, 800/877–3623 | www.schramsberg.com | Tasting and tour $45 | Tasting and tour by appointment.
Storybook Mountain Vineyards.
Tucked into a rock face in the Mayacamas range, Storybook Mountain Vineyards occupies a picture-perfect site, with vines rising steeply from the winery in dramatic tiers. Zinfandel is king here, and there’s even a Zin Gris, an unusual dry rosé of Zinfandel grapes. (In Burgundy, Vin Gris—pale rosé—is made from Pinot Noir grapes.) Tastings are preceded by a low-key tour, during which you take a short walk up the hillside and then visit the
atmospheric tunnels, parts of which have the same rough-hewn look as they did when Chinese laborers painstakingly dug them around 1888. | 3835 Hwy. 128
4 mi northwest of town | 94515 | 707/942–5310 | www.storybookwines.com | Free | Mon.–Sat., tour and tasting by appointment.
Where to Eat in Calistoga
All Seasons Bistro.
$$ | AMERICAN | Bistro cuisine takes a California spin in this cheerful sun-filled space, where tables topped with flowers stand on an old-fashioned black-and-white checkerboard floor. The seasonal menu might include risotto with shiitake mushroom and duck confit or fettuccine puttanesca. Homey desserts include crème brûlée and pear-and-golden-raisin bread pudding. You can order reasonably priced wines from their extensive list, or buy a
bottle at the attached wine shop and have it poured at your table. The restaurant now also offers cocktails. Attentive service contributes to the welcoming atmosphere. | Average main: $18 | 1400 Lincoln Ave.
at Washington St. | 94515 | 707/942–9111 | www.allseasonsnapavalley.net | Closed Mon.
Barolo.
$$ | ITALIAN | With red-leather seats, artsy light fixtures, and a marble bar indoors and café seating out, this Italian-inflected wine bar inside the Mount View Hotel is a stylish, modern spot for a glass of wine, with many from small producers you probably haven’t heard of. Small plates that could have come straight from Tuscany—fried calamari, risotto croquettes, a selection of salumi—are great for sharing. A
handful of well-executed large plates, like the pappardelle with shrimp and braised short ribs, round out the menu. | Average main: $20 | 1457 Lincoln Ave. | 94515 | 707/942–9900 | www.barolocalistoga.com | No lunch.
Calistoga Inn Restaurant and Brewery.
$$$ | AMERICAN | On pleasant days this riverside restaurant and its sprawling, tree-shaded patio come into their own. At lunchtime, casual plates like a grilled-turkey-and-Brie sandwich or a vegetarian black-bean chili are light enough to leave some energy for an afternoon of wine tasting. And at night, when there’s often live jazz played on the patio during the warm months, you’ll find heartier dishes such as braised lamb shank or Sonoma
duck breast with a fennel-and-Parmesan stuffing. Service can be a bit lackadaisical, so order one of the house-made brews and enjoy the atmosphere while you’re waiting. | Average main: $25 | 1250 Lincoln Ave.
at Cedar St. | 94515 | 707/942–4101 | www.calistogainn.com/restaurant.html.
JoLe.
$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Local produce plays a starring role at this modern American restaurant inside the Mount View Hotel, not surprising as chef Matt Spector is one of the area’s biggest proponents of farm-to-table dining. Depending on when you visit, you might enjoy Mendocino-caught squid with crab stuffing; Forni, Brown & Welsh mixed greens with fresh Asian pears; and chicken-fried quail with fig jam. The menu is available à la carte,
and there are four-, five- and six-course prix-fixe options. No visit is complete without a slice of coconut cream pie. Pastry chef Sonjia Spector also makes scrumptious cupcakes for patrons to buy and take home. | Average main: $20 | 1457 Lincoln Ave.
near Fair Way | 707/942–9538 | jolerestaurant.com | No Lunch.
Best Wine Country Spas
Spas in Napa and Sonoma have two special angles. First, there are the local mud baths and mineral-water sources, concentrated particularly around Calistoga. Admittedly, it can seem really strange to lower yourself into a vat of thick, muddy paste, but once you’ve had a few minutes to get used to the intense heat and peaty smell, you may never want to leave your cocoon. Second, there are all those grapes: their seeds, skins, and vines are credited with all sorts of antioxidant and other healthful properties by those who use them in scrubs, lotions, and other spa products.
Dr. Wilkinson’s.
The oldest spa in Calistoga, this kitschy spot is well-loved for its reasonable prices and its unpretentious vibe. Their mud baths are a mix of volcanic ash and peat moss. | 1507 Lincoln Ave.
, at Fair Way | 94515 | 707/942–4102 | www.drwilkinson.com.
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa.
The largest spa of its type in the Wine Country, the vast complex covers every amenity you could want in a spa, including several pools and Jacuzzis fed by local thermal mineral springs. | 100 Boyes Blvd.
(Hwy. 12) | Boyes Hot Springs | 95476 | 707/938–9000 | www.fairmont.com/sonoma.
Kenwood Inn & Spa.
Hands down, this is the prettiest spa setting in the Wine Country. The “wine wrap” body treatment is finished off with a slathering of lotion made from various grape-seed oils and red-wine extract. | 10400 Sonoma Hwy.
(Hwy. 12) | Kenwood | 95452 | 707/833–1293, 800/353–6966 | www.kenwoodinn.com.
Spa Solage.
This eco-conscious spa has reinvented the traditional Calistoga mud and mineral water therapies. Case in point: the hour-long “Mudslide,” a three-part treatment that includes a mud body mask (in a heated lounge), a soak in a geo-thermal bath, and a power-nap in a comfy sound/vibration chair. Traditional spa services are available as well. | 755 Silverado Trail
, at Rosedale Rd. | 866/942–7442.
Spa Villagio.
This 13,000-square-foot spa with fieldstone walls and a Mediterranean theme has all the latest gadgets, including men’s and women’s outdoor hot tubs and showers with an extravagant number of showerheads. Huge spa suites—complete with flat-panel TV screens and wet bars—are perfect for couples and groups. | 6481 Washington St.
| Yountville | 94599 | 707/948–5050, 800/351–1133.
Where to Stay in Calistoga
Brannan Cottage Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | Housed inside the only one of Sam Brannan’s 1860 resort cottages still standing on its original site, this inn, a pristine Victorian house with lacy white fretwork, large windows, and a shady porch, is on the National Register of Historic Places. Each room has individual touches, such as a four-poster bed, a claw-foot tub, or a velvet settee. Pros: innkeepers go the extra mile; most rooms have
fireplaces; a five-minute walk from most of Calistoga’s restaurants. Cons: owners’ dog may be a problem for those with allergies; beds may be too firm for some. TripAdvisor: “friendly and helpful operators,” “authentic and unique,” “lovely peaceful getaway.” | Rooms from: $180 | 109 Wapoo Ave. | 94515 | 707/942–4200 | www.brannancottageinn.com | 6 rooms | Breakfast.
Calistoga Ranch.
$$$$ | RESORT | Spacious free-standing cedar-shingle bungalows throughout this posh, wooded property have outdoor living areas, and even the restaurant, spa, and reception space have outdoor seating areas and fireplaces. Though it feels casual and ranchlike, the lodges are supremely luxurious, with large bathrooms; large, romantic outdoor showers; beds dressed with down bedding; and minibars stocked with free drinks and snacks. Pros: almost half the cottages have private hot tubs on the deck; lovely hiking trails on the property; guests have reciprocal privileges at Auberge du Soleil. Cons: innovative indoor-outdoor organization works better in fair weather than in rain or cold; staff, though friendly, sometimes seems inexperienced compared to similarly priced places. TripAdvisor: “escape to serenity,”
“romantic,” “unbelievable property.” | Rooms from: $750 | 580 Lommel Rd. | 94515 | 707/254–2800, 800/942–4220 | www.calistogaranch.com | 48 rooms.
Cottage Grove Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | A long driveway lined with 16 freestanding cottages, each shaded by elm trees and with rocking chairs on the porch, looks a bit like Main Street, U.S.A., but inside the skylighted buildings are all the perks needed for a romantic weekend away. There are overstuffed chairs in front of a wood-burning fireplace, flat-screen TVs, and an extra-deep two-person whirlpool tub. Each cottage also has its own variation on the overall
comfy-rustic look, with telltale names like “Fly Fishing Cottage” and “Provence.” Spas and restaurants are within walking distance. Rates include afternoon wine and cheese. Pros: bicycles available for loan; freestanding cottages offer privacy; huge bathtubs. Cons: no pool; decor may seem a bit frumpy for some. TripAdvisor: “terrific property,” “cozy romantic wine retreat,” “charming
and beautiful.” | Rooms from: $300 | 1711 Lincoln Ave. | 94515 | 707/942–8400, 800/799–2284 | www.cottagegrove.com | 16 cottages | Breakfast.
Indian Springs.
$ | RESORT | Since 1861, this old-time spa has welcomed clients to its mud baths, mineral pool, and steam room, all of them supplied with mineral water from its four geysers. And rooms in the lodge, though quite small, are equally peaceful, done up a simple Zen style, with Asian-inspired furnishings, Frette linens on the bed, and flat-screen televisions. The cottages dotted around the property have anything from a small kitchenette to a
fully equipped kitchen, encouraging longer stays (book well in advance for these). A boccie-ball court, shuffleboard, and croquet lawn outside your door provide entertainment when you’re not indulging in various spa treatments and volcanic-ash mud baths, or soaking in the toasty Olympic-size mineral-water pool. Pros: lovely grounds with outdoor seating areas; stylish for the price; enormous mineral pool. Cons:
lodge rooms are small; service could be more polished. TripAdvisor: “indulgent and revitalizing,” “heaven on Earth,” “perfect place to stay.” | Rooms from: $240 | 1712 Lincoln Ave. | 94515 | 707/942–4913 | www.indianspringscalistoga.com | 24 rooms, 17 suites.
Fodor’s Choice |
Meadowlark Country House.
$ | B&B/INN | Twenty hillside acres just north of downtown Calistoga surround this decidedly laid-back but sophisticated inn, and each of the rooms in the main house and guest wing has its own charms: one has a deep whirlpool tub looking onto a green hillside, and others have a deck with a view of the mountains. Many rooms have fireplaces, and all but one have whirlpool tubs large enough for two. A spacious two-story guesthouse opens
directly onto the clothing-optional pool, hot tub, and sauna area, which is open to all guests and enjoyed by a diverse crowd (the inn is welcoming to all, gay and straight). Fodors.com readers point out that “Kurt and Richard are delightful, helpful hosts.” Pros: sauna next to the pool and hot tub; welcoming vibe attracts diverse guests; some of the most gracious innkeepers in Napa. Cons: clothing-optional pool
policy isn’t for everyone. TripAdvisor: “amazing owners,” “great stay with fantastic breakfast,” “we’ve become regulars.” | Rooms from: $250 | 601 Petrified Forest Rd. | 94515 | 707/942–5651, 800/942–5651 | www.meadowlarkinn.com | 5 rooms, 5
suites | Breakfast.
Mount View Hotel & Spa.
$ | B&B/INN | A National Historic Landmark built in 1917 in the Mission Revival style, the Mount View nevertheless feels up-to-date, with freshly painted rooms (some are a dramatic red and black), feather duvets, and high-tech touches like iPod alarm clocks. A full-service spa provides state-of-the-art pampering, and each of the three cottages has a private redwood deck and a whirlpool tub. The hotel’s location on Calistoga’s main drag,
plus the two excellent restaurants off the lobby, means you won’t need to go far if your spa treatment has left you too indolent to drive. Pros: convenient location; excellent spa treatments. Cons: ground-floor rooms dark; mediocre Continental breakfast; some bathrooms could use updating. TripAdvisor: “luxury and history,” “super relaxing amenities and spa,” “great service and
location.” | Rooms from: $249 | 1457 Lincoln Ave. | 94515 | 707/942–6877, 800/816–6877 | www.mountviewhotel.com | 18 rooms, 13 suites and cottages | Breakfast.
Solage.
$$$$ | RESORT | The cottages at this resort, which spreads over 22 acres, don’t look particularly luxurious from the outside, but inside the aesthetic is Napa Valley barn meets San Francisco loft, with high ceilings, polished concrete floors, recycled walnut furniture, and all-natural fabrics in soothing muted colors. It’s a resort for sociable sorts who like to lounge at the bar overlooking the large pool or play a game of boccie after
lunch at the excellent indoor-outdoor restaurant. Sports and fitness are a high priority here: in addition to a large, well-equipped spa and bathhouse where you can indulge in mud-bath variations, there’s a packed schedule of fitness activities that include yoga, Pilates, and biking and hiking excursions. TIP
If you want to be in the middle of the action, ask for a room facing the pool. For more seclusion, ask for one of the quieter rooms near the oak grove.
Pros: great service; complimentary bike cruisers available; separate pools for kids and adults. Cons: ascetic vibe; some rooms don’t have tubs. TripAdvisor: “modern touches in a traditional setting,” “unparalleled concierge and service,” “all around perfection.” | Rooms from: $425 | 755 Silverado Trail | 94515 | 866/942–7442, 707/226–0800 | www.solagecalistoga.com | 83 rooms, 6 suites.
Hot-Air Ballooning Over Wine Country
Thought those vineyards were beautiful from the highway? Top that with a bird’s-eye view. Several companies offer hot-air ballooning trips over Napa and Sonoma. Rides usually cost between $200 and $250, last about an hour, and include brunch or lunch after the flight. Flights take off at the crack of dawn, literally, and you can watch the huge, rainbow-color balloons inflate as the aircraft is readied. Be sure to dress in layers.
Balloons Above the Valley.
Napa | 707/253–2222, 800/464–6824 | www.balloonrides.com.
Napa Valley Balloons.
Napa | 707/944–0228, 800/253–2224 | www.napavalleyballoons.com.
Napa Valley Drifters.
707/252–7210, 877/463–7438 | www.napavalleydrifters.com.
Sports and the Outdoors in Calistoga
Calistoga Bikeshop.
This bike-shop-turned-outfitter currently offers a self-guided Calistoga Cool Wine Tour package ($80), which includes free tastings at small wineries. Best of all, the shop will pick up any wine you purchase along the way if you’ve bought more than will fit in the handy bottle carrier on your bike. | 1318 Lincoln Ave. | 94515 | 707/942–9687.
Shopping in Calistoga
Enoteca Wine Shop.
This store on Calistoga’s main drag displays almost all its wines with extensive tasting notes. This makes it easier to choose from among this unusually fine collection, which includes both hard-to-find bottles from Napa and Sonoma and many rare French wines. | 1348B Lincoln Ave. | 94515 | 707/942–1117.
Mudd Hens.
Stock up on bath amenities and soaking salts at this eclectic shop on downtown Calistoga’s main drag. The store also sells candles and handmade soaps, including some made from carrot seeds. | 1348C Lincoln Ave.
at Washington St. | 707/942–0210, 800/793–9220.
Wine Garage.
Bargain hunters love this garage-turned-wine-shop, where all the bottles go for $25 or less. It’s a great way to discover the work of smaller wineries producing undervalued wines. | 1020 Foothill Blvd.
at Hwy. 29 | 94515 | 707/942–5332, 888/690–9463.
Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents