Elsewhere in Sonoma County

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Santa Rosa | Russian River Valley | Healdsburg | Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys

At nearly 1,598 square miles, there’s more to Sonoma County than the day-tripper favorites of Sonoma, Glen Ellen, and Kenwood. To the north is Healdsburg, a small town with killer shopping. The national media have latched onto it for its swank hotels and remarkable restaurants, and many Fodors.com readers recommend it as an ideal home base for wine tasting in northern Sonoma County.

Within easy striking distance of Healdsburg are the scenic vineyards of the Alexander, Dry Creek, and Russian River valleys. These lookers produce some of the country’s best Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and Sauvignon Blanc. Though these regions are hardly unknown names, their quiet, narrow roads feel a world away from Highway 29 in Napa. The western stretches of Sonoma County are sparsely populated in comparison to the above destinations and have fewer wineries. River Road heading west from U.S. 101—the exit is about 4 miles north of Santa Rosa—intersects Westside Road, which passes through Pinot Noir paradise on its way to Healdsburg.

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Santa Rosa

8 miles northwest of Kenwood on Hwy. 12.

Santa Rosa, the Wine Country’s largest city, isn’t likely to charm you with its office buildings, department stores, and frequent snarls of traffic along U.S. 101. It is, however, home to a couple of interesting cultural offerings. Its moderately priced chain lodgings can be handy, especially since Santa Rosa is roughly equidistant from Sonoma, Healdsburg, and the Russian River Valley, three of the most popular wine-tasting destinations.

Getting Here and Around

To get to Santa Rosa from San Francisco, drive north over the Golden Gate Bridge and continue north on U.S. 101 to the downtown Santa Rosa exit. To get to Santa Rosa from Sonoma Valley, take Highway 12 north. Santa Rosa’s hotels, restaurants, and wineries are spread over a wide area; factor in extra time when driving around Santa Rosa, especially during morning and evening commute hours.

Exploring Santa Rosa

Charles M. Schulz Museum.
Fans of Snoopy and Charlie Brown will love the Charles M. Schulz Museum, dedicated to the cartoonist who lived in Santa Rosa for the last 30 years of his life, until his death in 2000. Permanent installations such as a re-creation of the artist’s studio share the space with temporary exhibits, which often focus on a particular theme in Schulz’s work. Children and adults can take a stab at creating cartoons in the Education Room or wander through the labyrinth in the form of Snoopy’s head. | 2301 Hardies La. at W. Steele La. | 95403 | 707/579–4452 | www.schulzmuseum.org | $10 | Labor Day–Memorial Day, Wed.–Fri. and Mon. 11–5, weekends 10–5; Memorial Day–Labor Day, weekdays 11–5, weekends 10–5.

De Loach Vineyards.
Just far enough off the beaten track to feel like a real find, this winery produces old-vine Zinfandels, Chardonnays, and a handful of other varietals, but it is best for known for its Pinot Noir, some of which is made using open-top wood fermentation vats that are uncommon in Sonoma but have been used in France for centuries. (Some think they intensify a wine’s flavor.) Tours focus on the estate vineyards, where you can learn about the labor-intensive biodynamic and organic farming methods used, and take you through the culinary garden. Call a day or two in advance if you want to taste wines paired with regional cheeses ($25) or purchase a picnic basket ($30) to enjoy in their attractive picnic area. | 1791 Olivet Rd. | 707/526–9111, 800/441–9298 | www.deloachvineyards.com | Tasting $10–$25, tour $15 | Daily 10–5; tours daily at 11 (or by appointment).

Luther Burbank Home and Gardens.
The Luther Burbank Home and Gardens commemorates the great botanist who lived and worked on these grounds and single-handedly developed the modern techniques of hybridization. The 1.6-acre garden and a greenhouse show the results of some of Burbank’s experiments to develop spineless cactus, fruit trees, and flowers such as the Shasta daisy. Instructions for accessing the free self-guided garden tour using visitors’ own cell phones is posted near the carriage house. In the music room of his house, a modified Greek Revival structure that was Burbank’s home from 1884 to 1906, a dictionary lies open to a page on which the verb “burbank” is defined as “to modify and improve plant life.” To see the house, you’ll need to join one of the docent-led tours, which leave from the gift shop every half hour or so. | 204 Santa Rosa Ave. at Sonoma Ave. | 95404 | 707/524–5445 | www.lutherburbank.org | Gardens free, tour $7 | Gardens daily 8–dusk; museum and gift shop Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 10–4.

Fodor’s Choice | Matanzas Creek Winery.
The visitor center at this beautiful winery sets itself apart with an understated Japanese aesthetic, extending to a tranquil fountain and a koi pond. Best of all, huge windows overlook a vast field of lavender plants. TIP The ideal time to visit is in May and June, when the lavender blooms and perfumes the air. The winery specializes in Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Chardonnay, although it also produces a popular dry rosé as well as some Syrah, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet. Guided tours range from an hour-long intro to the Bennett Valley, the tiny AVA where the winery is located ($10), to a more expensive one ($35) that concludes with a taste of limited-production and library wines paired with artisanal cheeses. If you’d like to go it on your own, ask for a printed vineyard-tour guide. | 6097 Bennett Valley Rd. | 95404 | 707/528–6464, 800/590–6464 | www.matanzascreek.com | Tasting $5, tours $10–$35 | Daily 10–4:30; tour by appointment.

Safari West.
An unexpected bit of wilderness in the Wine Country, this African wildlife preserve covers 400 acres on the outskirts of Santa Rosa. Set aside an entire morning or afternoon for a visit, which begins with a stroll around enclosures housing lemurs, cheetahs, giraffes, and many varieties of rare birds, like the brightly colored scarlet ibis. Next, guests climb onto open-air vehicles that spend about two hours driving around the expansive property, where more than 80 species, such as African cape buffalo, gazelles, wildebeests, and zebras make their home on the hillsides. All the while you’re accompanied by a staff member who informs you about the animals, their behavior, and the threats they face in the wild. Note that the admission price for children ages 3 to 12 is $30–$32. If you’d like to extend your stay, lodging in well-equipped tent cabins ($–$$) is available. | 3115 Porter Creek Rd. | 95404 | 707/579–2551, 800/616–2695 | www.safariwest.com | $68–$78.

Where to Eat in Santa Rosa

Fodor’s Choice | Zazu.
$$$ | ITALIAN | A low wooden ceiling, rustic copper tables, and rock music on the stereo create a casual vibe at this roadhouse. It’s a few miles west of downtown Santa Rosa, but the hearty, soulful cooking of owners Duskie Estes and John Stewart lures passionate fans from all over the Wine Country. About 30 percent of the produce comes from their own garden, and the meats are house-cured, so the antipasto plate or a pizza with house-made pepperoni are both excellent choices. The small seasonal menu—a mix of Italian-influenced dishes and updated American classics—tends toward rich flavors, with choices like rabbit braised in red wine and served with a mushroom risotto. On Mondays in summer, try the three-course family-style “farm supper” for $39 per person. Sunday brunch, featuring cornmeal waffles (among other great choices), is worthwhile, too. | Average main: $30 | 3535 Guerneville Rd. at Willowside Rd. | 95401 | 707/523–4814 | www.zazurestaurant.com | No lunch. Closed Tues.

Where to Stay in Santa Rosa

Flamingo Conference Resort & Spa.
$ | RESORT | If Don Draper from the hit show Mad Men popped into Santa Rosa, he’d probably park himself in this kitschy, 1950s-style resort just beyond downtown; the rooms have been updated since the property opened in 1957, but they’ve still got high ceilings and that old-school flair. The iconic throwback: a vertical marquee with “Flamingo” emblazoned in neon letters. The hotel’s restaurant is a hot spot for a power lunch, while the lounge hosts epic karaoke on weekend nights. And how about this for retro cred: Back in the day, Jayne Mansfield partied at the Flamingo. TripAdvisor: “great customer service,” “well-appointed room,” “neat retro atmosphere.” | Rooms from: $119 | 2777 4th St. | 707/545–8530, 800/848–8300 | www.flamingoresort.com | 170 rooms.

Russian River Valley

10 miles northwest of Santa Rosa.

The Russian River flows from Mendocino to the Pacific Ocean, but in terms of wine making, the Russian River valley is centered on a triangle with points at Healdsburg, Guerneville, and Sebastopol. Tall redwoods shade many of the two-lane roads that access this scenic area, where, thanks to the cooling marine influence, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the king and queen of grapes.

Essentials

Contacts

Russian River Wine Road.
498 Moore La. | Healdsburg | 95448 | 707/433–4335, 800/723–6336 | www.wineroad.com.

Getting Here and Around

Many people visit the Russian River valley while based in nearby Healdsburg. To get to the wineries along Westside Road from Healdsburg’s central plaza, head south on Center Street and turn right at Mill Street, which turns into Westside Road after it crosses U.S. 101. From Westside Road turn left on Wohler Road and left again on Eastside Road to loop back to U.S. 101 just south of Healdsburg. Wineries are somewhat more widely spaced in this rural area than in other parts of the Wine Country, and you should plan on spending some leisurely time driving along the winding roads. This is also a particularly scenic area for biking and jogging.

Exploring Russian River Valley

Gary Farrell Winery.
Pass through an impressive metal gate and wind your way up a steep hill to reach Gary Farrell, a spot with knockout views over the rolling hills and vineyards below. Although the winery has changed hands a few times since Farrell sold it in 2004, it’s managed to continue producing well-regarded bottles under Susan Reed, who worked alongside him. Though its earthy, full-bodied Zinfandels and Carneros and Russian River Chardonnays are winners, the winery has built its reputation on its Pinot Noirs. | 10701 Westside Rd. | Healdsburg | 95448 | 707/473–2900 | www.garyfarrellwines.com | Tasting $10–$15, tour $25 | Daily 10:30–4:30; tour by appointment.

Hartford Family Winery.
Pinot Noir fans flock to this opulent winery that sits off a meandering country road. The wine makers here turn grapes from the cooler areas of the Russian River valley, Sonoma coast, and other regions into crisp Chardonnays, old-vine Zinfandels, and Pinots, many of which are single-vineyard wines. Tours of the barrel room ($10, not including tasting) and a seated tasting of library wines ($25) are offered (call ahead). | 8075 Martinelli Rd. off Hwy. 116 or River Rd. | Forestville | 95436 | 707/887–1756, 800/588–0234 | www.hartfordwines.com | Tastings $15–$25, tour $10 | Daily 10–4:30, tours by appointment.

Fodor’s Choice | Iron Horse Vineyards.
A one-lane country road leads to Iron Horse Vineyards, known for its sparkling wines, from the bright and austere to the rich and toasty, as well as estate Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. Three hundred acres of rolling, vine-covered hills, barnlike buildings, and a rustic outdoor tasting area with a view of Mt. St. Helena set this winery apart from stuffier spots. Tours (by appointment) take place weekdays at 10 am. Wine maker David Munksgard leads the Friday tour. | 9786 Ross Station Rd. off Hwy. 116 | Sebastopol | 95472 | 707/887–1507 | www.ironhorsevineyards.com | Tasting $10, tour $20 | Daily 10–4:30; tour weekdays at 10 by appointment.

J Vineyards and Winery.
The dry sparkling wines made here, all from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes planted in Russian River vineyards, have wonderfully complex fruit and floral aromas and good acidity. Best known for its sparklers, J also makes fine still wines, often from Pinot and Chardonnay grapes, as well as brandy-fortified dessert wine and a pear eau-de-vie. You can sample just the wines at the tasting bar, or indulge yourself in the Bubble Room (reservations required), where top-end still and sparkling wines are paired with food. Free, 30-minute tours take place twice daily. | 11447 Old Redwood Hwy. at Eastside Rd. | Healdsburg | 95448 | 707/431–3646 | www.jwine.com | Tasting $20–$65, tours free | Daily 11–5; Bubble Room hours vary; tours daily 11 and 2:30.

Rochioli Vineyards and Winery.
Claiming one of the prettiest picnic sites in the area, with tables overlooking vineyards, this winery also has an airy little tasting room hung with modern artwork. Production is small—about 12,000 cases annually—and fans on the winery’s mailing list snap up most of the bottles, but the wines are still worth a stop. Because of the cool growing conditions in the Russian River valley, the flavors of the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are intense and complex. It’s the Pinot, though, that is largely responsible for the winery’s stellar reputation; it helped cement the Russian River’s status as a Pinot powerhouse. TIP Though Rochioli typically pours only a couple of wines for visitors, it’s one of the few wineries of its stature that still doesn’t charge for a tasting. | 6192 Westside Rd. | Healdsburg | 95448 | 707/433–2305 | www.rochioliwinery.com | Tasting free | Thurs.–Mon. 11–4, Tues. and Wed. by appointment; closed mid-Dec.–early Jan.

Where to Eat in Russian River Valley

Fodor’s Choice | The Farmhouse Inn.
$$$$ | FRENCH | From the personable sommelier who assists you with wine choices to the servers who describe the provenance of the black truffles shaved over your intricate pasta dish, the staff matches the quality of this restaurant’s outstanding French-inspired cuisine. The signature dish, “rabbit, rabbit, rabbit,” a rich trio of confit of leg, rabbit loin wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon, and roasted rack of rabbit with a whole-grain mustard sauce, is typical of the preparations that are both rustic and refined, and the starters often include a seared Sonoma foie gras served with an apple cider sauce. The restaurant offers three-course, prix-fixe dinners every Monday for $49 per person. TIP The inn is a favorite of wine-industry foodies, so reserve well in advance; if you haven’t done so, you might still be able to dine in the small lounge area. | Prix-fixe: $52 | 7871 River Rd. at Wohler Rd. | Forestville | 95436 | 707/887–3300, 800/464–6642 | www.farmhouseinn.com | Reservations essential | Closed Tues. and Wed. No lunch.

Where to Stay in Russian River Valley

Fodor’s Choice | The Farmhouse Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Inside a pale yellow 1873 farmhouse and its adjacent cottages, this hotel maintains individually decorated guest rooms with comfortable touches such as down comforters and whirlpool tubs. Many of the cottages have wood-burning fireplaces and even their own private saunas, which make the accommodations especially inviting during the rainy months. The most romantic (and expensive) rooms are those in the newest building, finished in 2009 and built to resemble an old barn that was once on the property. With a chic rustic-farmhouse-meets-modern-loft aesthetic, the spacious rooms have king-size four-poster beds, spa tubs, fireplaces, and patios or balconies overlooking the hillside. It’s worth leaving your supremely comfortable bed for the sumptuous breakfasts included in the rate. Pros: one of Sonoma’s best restaurants is on-site; free snacks, games, movies, and luxury bath products available; full-service spa uses many products made from local ingredients. Cons: rooms closest to the street get a bit of road noise. TripAdvisor: “in a different world,” “the perfect wine country experience,” “wonderful place with fantastic service.” | Rooms from: $350 | 7871 River Rd. | Forestville | 95436 | 707/887–3300, 800/464–6642 | www.farmhouseinn.com | 12 rooms, 6 suites | Breakfast.

Sebastopol Inn.
$ | HOTEL | Simple but cheerful rooms, freshly painted a sunny yellow and equipped with blue-and-white striped curtains, have a spare California country style at this reasonably priced inn. Rooms clustered around a pleasant courtyard are also steps away from an old train station that has been converted into a cluster of cafés and shops. Some rooms have microwaves, some have small balconies or patios, and the uncommonly spacious suites (which also have jetted tubs) offer plenty of room for families. Pros: friendly staff; just steps from a café, wine bar, and spa. Cons: 30-minute drive from most Russian River wineries; some will find the beds too firm. TripAdvisor: “clean and convenient,” “well tended,” “big room.” | Rooms from: $135 | 6751 Sebastopol Ave. | Sebastopol | 95472 | 707/829–2500 | www.sebastopolinn.com | 29 rooms, 2 suites.

Sports and the Outdoors in Russian River Valley

Burke’s Canoe Trips.
This friendly Forestville-based outfitter rents canoes ($60 per day) for a leisurely paddle 10 miles downstream to Guerneville. A shuttle bus will return you to your car at the end of the journey. From late May through mid-October is the best time for canoeing. | River and Mirabel Rds. 1 mile north of Forestville | 95436 | 707/887–1222 | www.burkescanoetrips.com.

Healdsburg

17 miles north of Santa Rosa on U.S. 101.

Just when it seems that the buzz about Healdsburg couldn’t get any more intense, there’s another article published in a glossy food or wine magazine about the restaurant Cyrus or the spanking new h2hotel. The good news: You don’t have to be a tycoon to stay here and enjoy the town. For every ritzy restaurant there’s a great bakery or relatively modest B&B. A tin-roofed bandstand on Healdsburg’s plaza hosts free summer concerts, where you might hear anything from bluegrass to Sousa marches. Add to that the fragrant magnolia trees shading the square and the bright flower beds, and the whole thing is as pretty as a Norman Rockwell painting.

The setting is no less idyllic in the nearby countryside, where stores straddling the relatively untrafficked roads sell just-plucked fruits and vine-ripened tomatoes. Winery buildings here are barely visible, since they’re tucked behind groves of eucalyptus or hidden high on fog-shrouded hills.

Getting Here and Around

To get to Healdsburg from San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and continue north on U.S. 101. About 65 miles from San Francisco, take the Central Healdsburg exit and follow Healdsburg Avenue a few blocks to the town’s central plaza. Many of the town’s hotels and restaurants ring the scenic town square and the few blocks radiating out from here.

Where to Eat in Healdsburg

Barndiva.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | This hip joint abandons the homey vibe of so many Wine Country spots for a younger, more urban feel. Electronic music plays quietly in the background while hipster servers ferry inventive seasonal cocktails. The food is as stylish as the well-dressed couples cozying up next to one another on the banquette seats. Make a light meal out of starters like goat-cheese croquettes or “The Artisan,” a bountiful plate of cheeses and charcuterie, or settle in for the evening with dishes such as pork tenderloin with potato puree or lobster risotto. During warm weather the open-air patio is the place to be. | Average main: $32 | 231 Center St. at Matheson St. | 95448 | 707/431–0100 | www.barndiva.com | Closed Mon. and Tues.

Bovolo.
$$ | ITALIAN | Husband-and-wife team John Stewart and Duskie Estes–they of Zazu fame–opened this restaurant on the Healdsburg Plaza to serve what they call “slow food . . . fast.” The stars of the show: house-cured meats that are featured in pizzas, pastas, and sandwiches. For instance, the Salumist’s Salad mixes a variety of cured meats with greens, white beans, and a tangy vinaigrette; and a thin-crust pizza might come topped with house-made Italian pork sausage and roasted peppers. House-made gelato served with a dark chocolate sauce or zeppole (Italian donuts) provide a perfect ending to a meal. On summer weekends, the restaurant serves breakfast at 9 am. Closing hours vary according to season, so call ahead if planning an evening visit. | Average main: $18 | 106 Matheson St. at Healdsburg Ave. | 95448 | 707/431–2962 | www.bovolorestaurant.com | Reservations not accepted | Often no dinner Tues. and Wed.; no dinner Sun.–Thurs. fall–spring.

Costeaux.
$$ | FRENCH | This French-style bakery in downtown Healdsburg has won numerous awards for its bread, and the croissants and Epi breads are the best in all of Sonoma County. Also worth sampling: savory breakfast and lunch dishes, such as the homemade quiche or the omelet with sun-dried tomatoes, bacon, and Brie. Arrive early on weekends to grab a seat on the open-air patio. | Average main: $15 | 417 Healdsburg Ave. at North St. | 707/433–1913 | www.costeaux.com | No dinner.

Fodor’s Choice | Cyrus.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | Hailed as the best thing to hit the Wine Country since French Laundry, Cyrus has collected lots of awards and many raves from guests. From the moment you’re seated to the minute your dessert plates are whisked away, you’ll be carefully tended by gracious servers and an expert sommelier. The formal dining room, with its vaulted Venetian-plaster ceiling, is a suitably plush setting for chef Douglas Keane’s creative, subtle cuisine. Each night, diners have their choice of four set menus: five- and eight-course extravaganzas ($108 and $135, respectively), for both omnivores and vegetarians. Wine pairings are available for both (also $108 and $135). Set aside three hours to work your way from savory starters such as a terrine of foie gras with curried apple compote, through fragrant dishes such as a truffled wine risotto with Parmesan broth. Desserts are otherworldly, and every guest receives a box of tiny sweets to take home. If you’ve failed to make reservations, you can order à la carte at the bar, which has one of the best collection of cocktails and spirits in all of the Wine Country. | Prix-fixe: $108 | 29 North St. near Healdsburg Ave. | 95448 | 707/433–3311 | www.cyrusrestaurant.com | Reservations essential | Closed Tues. and Wed. in winter. No lunch.

Scopa.
$$$ | ITALIAN | At this tiny eatery chef Ari Rosen cooks up rustic Italian specialties such as house-made ravioli stuffed with ricotta cheese, braised chicken with greens and polenta, and polpette Calabrese (spicy meatballs served with smoked mozzarella in a tomato sauce). Simple thin-crust pizzas are worth ordering, too. Locals love the restaurant for its lack of pretension: wine is served in juice glasses, and the friendly hostess visits guests frequently to make sure all are satisfied. You’ll be packed in elbow-to-elbow with your fellow diners, but for a convivial evening over a bottle of Nebbiolo, there’s no better choice. | Average main: $25 | 109A Plaza St. near Healdsburg Ave. | 95448 | 707/433–5282 | www.scopahealdsburg.com | No lunch.

Spoonbar.
$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | Cantina doors that open wide onto Healdsburg Avenue make this trendy eatery especially appealing in summer, when the warm breeze wafts into the stylish space. Inside, concrete walls, mid-century modern chairs, and a long communal table fashioned from rough-hewn acacia wood create an urbane setting for the modern Mediterranean fare. “Small bites” like the marinated quail eggs, spicy lamb meatballs, and house-cured olives are standouts, while several of the entrée-sized dishes demonstrate a Moroccan flair (the Moorish-style chicken with grilled lemon and couscous is especially popular). The perpetually packed bar, where celebrity bartender Scott Beattie and his staff mix inventive seasonal cocktails, is the real draw for many locals. | Average main: $29 | h2hotel 219 Healdsburg Ave. at Vine St. | 95448 | 707/433–7222 | www.h2hotel.com/spoonbar | No lunch Mon.–Thurs. in winter.

Zin Restaurant and Wine Bar.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Concrete walls and floors and large canvases on the walls lend the restaurant a casual, industrial, and slightly artsy feel. The American cuisine—such as the grilled pork chop with homemade applesauce or the wine-braised lamb shank—is hearty and highly seasoned. Portions are large, so consider sharing if you hope to save room for desserts such as the brownie sundae with house-made ice cream. As you might have guessed from the name, Zinfandel is the drink of choice here: the varietal makes up roughly half of the 100 or so bottles on the wine list. From Sunday through Thursday, blue-plate specials featuring homey fare (like pot roast and chicken and dumplings) make this place a bargain. | Average main: $25 | 344 Center St. at North St. | 95448 | 707/473–0946 | zinrestaurant.com | No lunch weekends.

Where to Stay in Healdsburg

Camellia Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | In a well-preserved Italianate Victorian constructed in 1869, this colorful B&B is on a quiet residential street a block from the town’s main square. The parlors downstairs are chockablock with ceramics and other decorative items, while rooms are individually decorated with antiques. Each room has its own charms, such as a canopy bed, a claw-foot tub, or a whirlpool bath. TIP You can save money by booking the cozy (and popular) budget room, with a full-size bed and large private bath across the hall. Pros: reasonable rates; a rare family-friendly inn; within easy walking distance of restaurants. Cons: a few rooms have a shower but no bath; all rooms lack TVs. TripAdvisor: “a truly wonderful inn,” “make yourself at home,” “helpful staff.” | Rooms from: $230 | 211 North St. | 95448 | 707/433–8182, 800/727–8182 | www.camelliainn.com | 8 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.

h2hotel.
$ | B&B/INN | Eco-friendly touches abound at this LEED-certified newcomer, from the undulating plant-covered “green roof” to wooden decks made from salvaged lumber. Inside, earthy items like striped tiger bamboo floors, wool felt area rugs, and side tables made from a block of elm warm up the sleek rooms, where white walls and bedding inspire serenity. Each room has a patio or small balcony, and the larger rooms (junior suites and one-bedroom suites) feature deep, deep bathtubs, easily large enough for two. Thoughtful touches include the ample storage for your luggage and the computers on every floor available for guests’ use. The hip restaurant and bar on the ground floor ensures the hotel’s popularity with young food- and cocktail-savvy travelers. Pros: stylish modern design; Healdsburg’s most popular bar; king beds can be converted to two twins. Cons: least expensive rooms lack bathtubs; no fitness facilities on-site. TripAdvisor: “unique property,” “great small touches,” “modern hotel.” | Rooms from: $200 | 219 Healdsburg Ave. | 95448 | 707/922–5251 | www.h2hotel.com | 34 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.

The Honor Mansion.
$$$ | B&B/INN | An 1883 Italianate Victorian houses this photogenic hotel, and rooms in the main house preserve a sense of the building’s heritage, while the larger suites are comparatively understated. Luxurious touches such as antiques and decanters of sherry are found in every room, and suites have the advantage of a deck; some even have private outdoor hot tubs. Fodors.com readers rave about the attentive staff, who “think of things you don’t even know you want.” Pros: spacious grounds with boccie and tennis courts, a putting green, and half-court for basketball; homemade sweets available at all hours; spa pavilions by pool available for massages in fair weather. Cons: almost a mile from Healdsburg’s plaza; walls can seem thin. TripAdvisor: “beautiful and relaxing,” “simply the best,” “Honor Mansion defines service.” | Rooms from: $315 | 891 Grove St. | 95448 | 707/433–4277, 800/554–4667 | www.honormansion.com | 5 rooms, 7 suites, 1 cottage | Closed 2 wks around Christmas | Breakfast.

Hotel Healdsburg.
$$$ | RESORT | Across the street from Healdsburg’s tidy town plaza, this spare, sophisticated hotel caters to travelers with an urban sensibility. Unadorned olive-green walls, pecanwood floors, and clean-line furniture fill the guest rooms; the beds are some of the most comfortable you can find. Spacious bathrooms continue the sleek style with monochromatic tiles and deep soaking tubs that are all right angles. Downstairs, the sophisticated on-site spa offers a variety of treatments and has a modest lap-pool. The attached restaurant, Dry Creek Kitchen ($$$$), is one of the best in Healdsburg. Pros: several rooms overlook the town plaza; comfortable lobby with a small attached bar; extremely comfortable beds. Cons: exterior rooms get some street noise; rooms could use better lighting. TripAdvisor: “casual luxury at its best,” “really comfortable,” “refreshing hotel with world-class staff.” | Rooms from: $375 | 25 Matheson St. | 95448 | 707/431–2800, 800/889–7188 | www.hotelhealdsburg.com | 46 rooms, 10 suites | Breakfast.

Hôtel Les Mars.
$$$$ | HOTEL | This Relais & Châteaux property takes the prize for opulence with guest rooms spacious and elegant enough for French nobility, with 18th- and 19th-century antiques and reproductions, canopied beds, and gas-burning fireplaces. Most of the white-marble bathrooms have spa tubs in addition to enormous showers. Rooms on the third floor have 20-foot ceilings that make them feel particularly large, while the second-floor rooms have a slightly more understated style. Wine and cheese are served every evening in the library, which is sumptuously paneled with hand-carved black walnut; a Continental breakfast can be delivered to your room or served in the library. Pros: large rooms; just off Healdsburg’s plaza; Bulgari bath products. Cons: very expensive. TripAdvisor: “absolutely first class,” “luxurious weekend getaway destination,” “finest hotel in the Sonoma wine country.” | Rooms from: $600 | 27 North St. | 95448 | 707/433–4211 | www.hotellesmars.com | 16 rooms | Breakfast.

Madrona Manor.
$$ | B&B/INN | The flagship 1881 Victorian mansion here is surrounded by 8 acres of wooded and landscaped grounds, and rooms in the three-story mansion, the carriage house, and the three separate cottages are splendidly ornate, with mirrors in gilt frames and paintings covering every wall. Much of the furniture is original to the mansion. Candlelight dinners are served in formal dining rooms nightly except Monday and Tuesday. Chef Jesse Mallgren has earned praise for his elaborate four-, five-, and six-course menus ($$$$), where luxuries like a Périgord truffle risotto might precede a bacon-wrapped rabbit loin and a warm chocolate soufflé. TIP For a ridiculously romantic experience, ask for Room 203 or 204. Each has a huge balcony that overlooks the hotel grounds and beyond. Pros: old-fashioned and romantic; pretty veranda perfect for a cocktail. Cons: pool heated May through October only; some might find decor too fussy. TripAdvisor: “romantic and relaxation,” “beautiful grounds,” “European style hotel with great service.” | Rooms from: $300 | 1001 Westside Rd. | 95448 | 707/433–4231, 800/258–4003 | www.madronamanor.com | 18 rooms, 5 suites | Breakfast.

Shopping in Healdsburg

M Clothing.
A high-end women’s-clothing boutique, M carries dresses, skirts, sweaters, and accessories from Diane von Furstenberg, Nanette Lapore, and other top designers. The shop sometimes hosts fashion shows at local hotels. | 333 Healdsburg Ave. at Plaza St. | 707/431–8738 | www.martymclothing.com.

Moustache Baked Goods.
This shop specializes in sweets incorporating local, organic ingredients: cupcakes (try the one with locally sourced bacon), whoopie pies, macaroons, and Oreos. Wash everything down with Blue Bottle Coffee. | 381 Healdsburg Ave. at North St. | 707/395–4111.

Oakville Grocery.
The Healdsburg branch of this Napa-based store is filled with wine, condiments, and deli items. A terrace with ample seating makes a good place for an impromptu picnic, but you might want to lunch early or late to avoid the worst crowds. | 124 Matheson St. at Center St. | 95448 | 707/433–3200.

Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys

On the west side of U.S. 101, Dry Creek Valley remains one of the least-developed appellations in Sonoma. Zinfandel grapes flourish on the benchlands, whereas the gravelly, well-drained soil of the valley floor is better known for Chardonnay and, in the north, Sauvignon Blanc. The wineries in this region tend to be smaller, which makes them a good bet on summer weekends, when larger spots and those along the main thoroughfares fill up with tourists.

The Alexander Valley, which lies northeast of Healdsburg, is similarly rustic. The largely family-owned wineries often produce Zinfandel and Chardonnay, while the winding Highway 128 through Knights Valley is a popular destination for cyclists and joggers alike.

Best Wine Country Festivals

Getting Here and Around

The Dry Creek Valley sits west of downtown Healdsburg, across U.S. 101. If you drive north on Healdsburg Avenue and turn left on Dry Creek Road you’ll slip under the freeway and soon see signs pointing the way to wineries on that road and West Dry Creek Road, which runs roughly parallel about a mile to the west, accessible by the cross streets Lambert Bridge Road and Yoakim Bridge Road.

The Alexander Valley is just northeast of Healdsburg. To get here from the plaza, drive north on Healdsburg Avenue and veer right on Alexander Valley Road. Although there are a few wineries on Alexander Valley Road itself, most of them on are on Highway 128, which intersects after 3.3 miles.

Exploring Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys

Dry Creek Vineyard.
Fumé Blanc is king at Dry Creek, where the refreshing white wine is made in the style of those made in Sancerre, France. The winery also makes well-regarded Zinfandels, a zesty dry Chenin Blanc, a Pinot Noir, and a handful of Cabernet Sauvignon blends. Since many wines are priced at less than $30 a bottle (some less than $20), it’s a popular stop for wine lovers looking to stock their cellars for a reasonable price. You can picnic on the lawn here next to a flowering magnolia tree. Conveniently, a general store and deli is close by. | 3770 Lambert Bridge Rd. off Dry Creek Rd. | Healdsburg | 95448 | 707/433–1000, 800/864–9463 | www.drycreekvineyard.com | Tasting $5 | Daily 10:30–4:30.

Francis Ford Coppola Winery.
The famous film director showcases his less-expensive wines at this majestic French-style château that he transformed into an impressive fantasyland. (Coppola’s Napa winery, Inglenook, focuses on the high-end vintages.) In addition to tasting wines or ordering cocktails at the full bar, you can select from tours that include a vineyard walk and the opportunity to watch the bottling facility in action. Scattered throughout the facility are mementos of Coppola’s film career, among them his Oscars and Don Corleone’s desk in The Godfather. Kids (and some adults), though, will be most excited by the large pool. Guests rent small cabanas to shower and change into their swimsuits before spending the afternoon lounging under the striped umbrellas, perhaps even ordering food from the poolside café. The winery’s restaurant, Rustic, serves a more elaborate menu from a spacious dining room and a terrace overlooking the vineyards. Prices, pool hours, and tour times change seasonally, so check before coming. | 300 Via Archimedes at Fulton Rd. | Geyserville | 95441 | 707/857–1400 | www.franciscoppolawinery.com | Tasting free–$7; tour $20–$55; pool pass $15 | Tasting room daily 11–6, restaurant daily 11–9; pool hrs vary seasonally.

Jordan Vineyard and Winery.
A visit to this sprawling property north of Healdsburg revolves around an impressive estate built in the early 1970s to replicate a French château. Seated tastings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are held in the château itself, in a secluded room that once served as a private cellar. Basic tastings ($20) last 45 minutes and include food and cheese prepared by executive chef Todd Knoll. Tours ($30), which last 75 minutes and include a tasting, wind from the château past a garden and through vineyards shaded by century-old oak trees. The wines alone are worth a visit here, but don’t leave without sampling the olive oil grown and milled on the estate. | 1474 Alexander Valley Rd. on Greco Rd. | Healdsburg | 95448 | 800/654–1213, 707/431–5250 | www.jordanwinery.com | Tastings and tour $20–$30 | Weekdays 8–4:30, weekends 9–3:30; tours and tastings daily by appointment | Closed Sun. Nov.–Apr.

Michel-Schlumberger.
Down a narrow road at the westernmost edge of the Dry Creek Valley, Michel-Schlumberger is one of Sonoma’s finest producers of Cabernet Sauvignon. A spin through the organically farmed vineyard here is like taking a walk through France, and though the winery is best known for Bordeaux varietals, you’ll also find Burgundian grapes next to ones from Alsace and the Rhône. Estate tours are unusually casual and friendly; weather permitting, visitors walk up a hill on a gravel pathway to the edge of the property’s lovely terraced vineyards before swinging through the barrel room, in a California Mission–style building that once served as the home of the winery’s founder, Jean-Jacques Michel. For a truly memorable experience, reserve a spot on the weekly Vineyard Tasting Tour ($50, Fridays at 10:30), which includes a hike and a tasting of the Estate Wines at a picnic table in the vineyard. | 4155 Wine Creek Rd. off W. Dry Creek Rd. | Healdsburg | 95448 | 707/433–7427, 800/447–3060 | www.michelschlumberger.com | Tasting $10–$15, tours $20–$50 | Daily 11–5; tours at 11 and 2, by appointment.

Papapietro Perry.
Pinot Noir and Zinfandel are the only wines on the tasting list at this small winery in the heart of the Dry Creek Valley, but wine lovers hail them as some of the region’s best. Most of the grapes come from the Russian River Valley, though Zin made from locally sourced fruit is available as well. Standard tastings at the copper-topped bar include five pours, and it always pays to ask what else is open in the back (the 777 Clone Pinot is particularly delicious). For a break in the action, peruse the winery shop for witty T-shirts, or call for Ruby, the winery dog, who always is eager for a gentle pet. | 4791 Dry Creek Rd. at Wine Creek Rd. | Healdsburg | 95448 | 707/433–0422, 877/467–4668 | www.papapietro-perry.com | Tasting $10 | Daily 11–4:30.

Fodor’s Choice | Preston Vineyards.
The long driveway at Preston, flanked by vineyards and punctuated by the occasional olive tree, winds down to some farmhouses encircling a shady yard. In summer a small selection of organic produce grown in the winery’s gardens is sold from an impromptu stand on the front porch, and house-made bread and olive oil are available year-round. The down-home style is particularly in evidence on Sunday, the only day of the week that tasting-room staffers sell a 3-liter bottle of Guadagni Red, a primarily Zinfandel blend filled from the barrel right in front of you. Owners Lou and Susan Preston are committed to organic growing techniques, and use only estate-grown grapes in their wines, like Sauvignon Blanc, and Rhône varietals such as Syrah and Viognier. | Tasting Room 9206 W. Dry Creek Rd. at Hartsock Rd. No. 1 | Healdsburg | 95448 | 707/433–3372 | www.prestonvineyards.com | Tasting $10 | Daily 11–4:30.

Quivira.
An unassuming winery in a modern wooden barn topped by solar panels, Quivira produces some of the most interesting wines in Dry Creek Valley. It’s known for its dangerously drinkable reds, including a petite Syrah, and a few hearty Zinfandel blends. The excellent tour provides information about the winery’s biodynamic and organic farming practices and offers a glimpse of the beautiful garden and the pigs, chickens, and beehives kept on the property. Visitors also can take a free self-guided tour through the garden. | 4900 W. Dry Creek Rd. near Wine Creek Rd. | Healdsburg | 95448 | 707/431–8333, 800/292–8339 | www.quivirawine.com | Tasting $10, tours $20–$30 | Daily 11–5; tours by appointment.

Stryker Sonoma.
Inside the tasting room at Stryker Sonoma, vaulted ceilings and seemingly endless walls of windows onto the vineyards suggest you’ve entered a cathedral to viniculture. The wines are almost as impressive as the architecture: most of them are single varietals, such as Chardonnay, Merlot, Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon. An exception, however, are a few Bordeaux-style blends, including the powerful E1K, which, unfortunately, is not usually poured in the tasting room (though it never hurts to ask whether a bottle is open). The picnic tables are a particularly lovely way to enjoy the quiet Alexander Valley countryside. Call ahead to book a spot on a tour that concludes on the observation deck overlooking the vineyards. | 5110 Hwy. 128 | Geyserville | 95441 | 707/433–1944, 800/433-1944 | www.strykersonoma.com | Tasting $10, tour $15 | Daily 10:30–5.

Off the Beaten Path: Alexander Valley Bar. If the “bustle” of downtown Healdsburg leaves you pining for more rustic environs, drive 6 miles to this dimly lighted Victorian-style speakeasy behind the Medlock Ames tasting room. You’ll find historic photos on the walls and a vintage photo booth to document the occasion. A mostly local crowd gathers to enjoy fine cocktails, some using produce grown in the bar’s own gardens. From Healdsburg’s plaza, drive 3 miles north on Healdsburg Avenue, turn right on Alexander Valley Road, and continue another 3 miles. | 3487 Alexander Valley Rd. near W. Sausal La. | Healdsburg | 95448 | 707/431–1904.

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