MARMALADE
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Marmalade is undoubtedly the most popular breakfast-time preserve in Britain and one that it is well worth making, for 450 g/1 lb oranges, or alternative fruits, provides a good batch. One suggestion is that marmalade was first made in Britain thanks to an enterprising housewife. In the eighteenth century a ship carrying a cargo of oranges sheltered from a storm off the east coast of Scotland at Dundee. The Spanish ship (although some reports claim it was from Portugal) disposed of the oranges to a local shopkeeper, a Mr Keiller. When he came to sell them his customers were not pleased, for they were bitter, not sweet as had been expected. Rather than wasting the produce, in true Scottish thrifty fashion Mrs Keiller decided to try her hand at making a preserve, and so marmalade was created. Seville (bitter) oranges are by far the most popular citrus fruit for marmalade although, over the years, other varieties of this preserve have become better known. Recipes for all types of marmalade are given on the following pages. The information on pages 6 to 19 will help you to produce perfect marmalade but there are a few points special to this particular preserve, as follows:

1. When preparing the citrus fruit never discard the pith or pips – these are ingredients that add flavour to the preserve and they are essential for helping the marmalade to set. There are various ways of incorporating these into the different kinds of marmalade. This is explained in the recipes.

2. Simmer the peel very slowly to make sure it is tender, unless doing this in a pressure cooker (see pages 13 to 14 and 89).

3. Check that the peel really is soft, for it will not tenderize once the sugar has been added; in fact, it tends to become somewhat tougher. To test if adequately cooked, take a piece of peel between your forefinger and thumb – you should be able to rub it almost to nothing if adequately cooked.

4. However, having said that the peel must be adequately cooked, there is no virtue in over-cooking it, for that destroys the flavour and colour of the marmalade.

5. Always stir in the sugar over a low heat to make sure it has been dissolved, then raise the heat and allow the preserve to boil rapidly until setting point is reached. This is explained on page 18.

6. Marmalade has only a brief period when it is at setting point, so it is imperative that you test early. Once this setting point has passed the marmalade will never set.

7. Allow the cooked preserve to cool for a time in the preserving pan so that it thickens slightly, then stir briskly. In this way the peel is evenly distributed.

8. Spoon into hot jars and seal down as instructed on page 19.

PREPARING THE FRUIT FOR MARMALADE

Although there are other fruits used in marmalade, it is mostly citrus fruits that form the basis of this preserve. Always wash citrus fruits well for much of the fruit sold today has a wax coating to help it last, and this should be removed before cooking.

Using the pips: the pips of citrus fruit help the marmalade to set so these are very important. In the recipes the instructions state these should be tied in muslin and soaked, then simmered with the fruit to extract the maximum amount of pectin. If you don’t have any muslin, put the pips into the amount of water given in the recipe and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, then strain and measure the liquid. You will find it is now less than the amount given in the particular recipe so add sufficient cold water to make up the quantity. The pips can then be discarded.

CUTTING UP THE PEEL

Cutting the peel for marmalade does take a long time. If doing this by hand, use a really sharp knife and a firm board on which to place the peel. It is, however, very easy if you put the peel and pulp through the shredding equipment of an electric mixing machine or food processor. Make sure all the juice has been squeezed out first, for the firmer the pulp and peel the easier it is to shred neatly. The peel and pulp can also be put through a mincer or mincing attachment – this is very successful if a finecut peel is required.

COVERING THE PAN

Most recipes for marmalade use a fairly high quantity of water to allow for evaporation as the peel softens. This means that if you leave the heat under the pan sufficiently low covering is not essential. If, however, you find that the liquid is evaporating too quickly then do cover the pan. Many preserving pans do not have lids, so use a thick piece of aluminium foil over the top.

FLAVOURING MARMALADE

All the various kinds of marmalade in this section can be flavoured with brandy or whisky to make a more exciting preserve. Allow 1 to 2 tablespoons whisky for every 450 g/1 lb (2 cups) sugar used. Add the whisky just before the preserve has reached setting point. Another interesting variation to marmalade recipes is to use some apple juice instead of water. This is particularly good with tangerine or kumquat marmalades where the flavour of apple juice blends very well. It can be used with the other citrus fruits too. Use half water and half apple juice. As an alternative, use still, not sparkling, dry cider mixed half and half with water.

MARMALADE IN A PRESSURE COOKER

The pressure cooker can be used to soften citrus fruit for marmalade within a very short time. Since the cooking time is so brief; compared with the conventional method, use just half the amount of water given in the marmalade recipes. The comments on pages 13 to 14 provide basic information on using a pressure cooker for preserving, and on the limitations on the quantity that can be cooked at one time. The instruction book with your particular cooker will give detailed information, but on the whole you will find that the peel of oranges is softened within 10 minutes at 10 lb (medium) pressure and that of lemons within 8 minutes.

MARMALADE IN A MICROWAVE OVEN

This method of cooking citrus fruit is less satisfactory than when using a pressure cooker for the peel does not become as soft as it should. It is better, therefore, to use either a conventional method of cooking the fruit or a pressure cooker when dealing with small quantities.

If the peel or skin in marmalade is still tough when the preserve is cooked, is there any way of softening it?

Sadly there is not. The peel or skin must be softened before adding the sugar; that is why gentle simmering in the first stage of cooking the peel for marmalade or the fruit for jam is so important.

When making a conserve, in which sugar is generally added to the uncooked fruit, it important to choose only fruits that have no skin or a very tender skin.

BANANA MARMALADE

Cooking time: 1½ to 2 hours • Makes 2.25 kg/5 lb marmalade

The inclusion of bananas in a lemon marmalade makes a very pleasant preserve. The dry sherry is not essential but does make it more interesting. Be sure to use bananas that are very firm and not too ripe.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
450 g/1 lb lemons 1 lb
1.35 litres/2¼ pints water 5⅔ cups
6 medium bananas 6 medium
1.35 kg/3 lb sugar 6 cups
150 ml/¼ pint dry sherry ⅔ cup

See Lemon Marmalade on page 93 for how to prepare, soak and simmer the lemons. Peel the bananas and cut into 1.5 cm/½ inch slices, add to the lemon preserve with the sugar and sherry, stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved then raise the heat and boil rapidly until setting point is reached. Stir to distribute the fruit then spoon into hot jars and seal down.

Variations

• Omit the sherry and use 150 ml/¼ pint (⅔ cup) extra water.

Banana and Orange Marmalade: use 450 g/1 lb sweet oranges or half sweet and half Seville oranges with the bananas. Using only Seville oranges will overwhelm the flavour of the bananas. Add 3 tablespoons (3¾ tablespoons) lemon juice with the sugar.

GINGER MARMALADE

Cooking time: 40 to 45 minutes • For yield see page 68

Although called a marmalade, this is really an apple, gooseberry or rhubarb jelly with pieces of preserved ginger added. Rather less water is used than for Apple Jelly, so you have a more concentrated juice that blends well with the ginger. Cooking apples are better than crab apples for this preserve.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
1.35 kg/3 lb cooking apples 3 lb
600 ml/1 pint water 2½ cups
sugar, see method
preserved ginger, see method

Cut up the apples – do not peel or core them – add them to the water and cook until a smooth purée. Strain through a jelly bag or muslin, as described under Apple Jelly (pages 70, 72-3). Measure the juice and to each 600 ml/1 pint (2½ cups) allow 450 g/1 lb (2 cups) sugar and 3 tablespoons (3¾ tablespoons) preserved ginger cut into 1.5 cm/½ inch dice. Heat the juice, add the sugar and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved, then add the ginger, with any ginger syrup adhering to it. Raise the heat and boil until setting point is reached. Cool for a short time, then stir to distribute the pieces of ginger. Spoon into hot jars and seal down.

Variations

• Use 900 ml/1½ pints (3¾ cups) water to give a less strongly flavoured jelly.

• Use green gooseberries and treat them as apples.

• Use rhubarb but add 1½ tablespoons (nearly 2 tablespoons) lemon juice to every 450 g/1 lb (2 cups) sugar.

GRAPEFRUIT MARMALADE

Cooking time: 1½ to 2 hours • Makes 1.8 kg/good 4 lb marmalade

Grapefruit marmalade makes a most pleasant preserve. Although grapefruit has a sharp flavour, the preserve will set better if some lemon juice is included. Pink grapefruit have become much more plentiful and these make a most attractive-looking marmalade as well as one with an exceptionally good flavour.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
2 medium* grapefruit 2 medium*
1.5 litres/2½ pints water 6¾ cups
1.125kg/2½ lb sugar 5 cups
4 tablespoons lemon juice 5 tablespoons

*total weight of about 450 g/1 lb

Cut the grapefruit into halves and scoop out the pips – tie these in muslin. Squeeze out the grapefruit juice and put this on one side. Shred the peel and pith finely and soak in the water with the bag of pips for several hours or overnight. Simmer the fruit gently with the bag of pips until soft then remove the pips and add the sugar, grapefruit juice and lemon juice. Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved then boil rapidly until setting point is reached. Cool slightly then stir to distribute the peel. Spoon into hot jars and seal down.

Variations

• If the grapefruit are much bigger or smaller than average weigh them and increase or decrease the amounts of water, sugar and lemon juice in proportion.

Pomelo Marmalade: these fruits are not particularly plentiful; they look like a very large grapefruit and their flavour is not dissimilar although much sweeter. To 450 g/1 lb fruit use the same amount of water and sugar as for Grapefruit Marmalade but as the fruit has very little natural pectin increase the amount of lemon juice to 150 ml/¼ pint (⅔ cup).

Ugli Fruit Marmalade: these fruits are becoming more plentiful. The flavour is like a mixture of grapefruit and orange. Use the same proportions of fruit, water and sugar as for Grapefruit Marmalade but increase the amount of lemon juice to 6 tablespoons (7½ tablespoons) to 450 g/1 lb fruit.

JELLY MARMALADES

Cooking time: 1½ hours • For yield see below

While the recipe below is based on Seville oranges, any citrus fruits can be made into jelly marmalades. These are ideal for those people who like the flavour of the fruit but not the peel. Because the peel is not included – or only a little top rind, often called zest, is used – the marmalade does tend to taste sweeter. Do not waste any part of the fruit, otherwise the marmalade will not set.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
450 g/1 lb Seville oranges 1 lb
1.8 litres/3 pints water 7½ cups
1.35 kg/3 lb sugar 6 cups
4 tablespoons lemon juice 5 tablespoons

If you want a jelly marmalade with some peel, pare the top rind from 1 or 2 of the fruits and cut this into very thin shreds. Do not include any pith, but do retain this. Halve the oranges, squeeze out the juice and put this on one side. Remove the pips. If you do not want any peel at all then simply halve all the oranges, remove the juice and pips. Tie the pips with all the pith and pulp into a strong thick piece of muslin to form a bag. Put this into the water and soak overnight. The shredded peel, if used, should be soaked at the same time. Simmer the peel with the bag of oranges, pith, pulp and pips until the peel is tender. Remove the bag of fruit, which can then be discarded. Follow this method even if not using the shredded top zest but see under Variations. Add the sugar with the orange and lemon juice and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Boil rapidly until setting point is reached. If there is peel in the jelly marmalade allow this to cool slightly and stiffen, then stir to distribute the peel before spooning into the hot jars. If there is no peel the jelly can be poured immediately into hot jars and sealed down.

Variations

• If no peel is required in the jelly marmalade, first halve the fruit and squeeze out the juice then soak all the chopped up oranges and pips in the water as above. There is no need to tie them in muslin. After soaking, simmer gently in the water for 1½ hours, then strain the liquid and discard all the oranges. Add the sugar with the orange and lemon juice and proceed as above.

Other Jelly Marmalades: use the proportions for any of the citrus fruit marmalades in this chapter but follow the method given for the Sweet Seville Orange Marmalade above.

Yield

This will depend on the particular recipe. Each 450 g/1 lb (2 cups) of sugar used should produce 750 g/1⅔ lb marmalade.

KIWIFRUIT MARMALADE

Cooking time: 1¼ to 1½ hours • Makes 2.25 kg/5 lb marmalade

Sweet oranges are better in this preserve, as the flavour of Seville (bitter) oranges rather overwhelms the taste of the kiwifruit.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
2 large oranges 2 large
1 large lemon 1 large
900 ml/1½ pints water 3¾ cups
900 g/2 lb kiwifruit pulp, see method 2 lb
1.35 kg/3 lb sugar 6 cups

Halve the oranges and lemon and squeeze out the juice – put this on one side. Take out any pips and put them into a muslin bag. Shred the pulp and peel of the oranges and lemon very finely and soak in the water overnight with the bag of pips. Simmer gently until the citrus peel is absolutely tender. Halve the kiwifruits and scoop out the pulp. Weigh this and dice it neatly, then add to the pan, together with any juice that may have flowed on to the chopping board. Add the orange and lemon juice and simmer gently for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the kiwifruit is very hot. Add the sugar and stir over a low heat until dissolved. Raise the heat and boil rapidly until setting point is reached. Allow the preserve to cool for a time in the pan, then stir to distribute the peel and pieces of kiwifruit and spoon into hot jars. Seal down.

KUMQUAT MARMALADE

Cooking time: 1 to 1¼ hours • Makes 1.5 kg/3⅓ lb marmalade

These small fruit, which look like miniature oranges, have become very popular during the last few years. People who like bitter flavours are quite happy to eat them raw. Although kumquats look like citrus fruits, and are in fact related to them, they belong to a different genus known as Fortunella. They are grown mainly in the Far East and Australia.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
675g/1½ lb kumquats 1½ lb
900 ml/1½ pints water 3¾ cups
900 g/2 lb sugar 4 cups
2 tablespoons lemon juice 2½ tablespoons

Slice the kumquats and cover with the water. Allow to stand for several hours or overnight. Simmer in the water until tender then add the sugar and lemon juice. Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved then raise the heat and boil rapidly until setting point is reached. Cool for a short time in the pan then stir to distribute the peel. Spoon into hot jars and seal down.

LEMON MARMALADE

Cooking time: 1½ to 2 hours • Makes 1.8 kg/good 4 lb marmalade

Lemons make an excellent marmalade; they are better cut up before cooking, as in the recipe below, rather than boiled whole.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
450 g/1 lb lemons 1 lb
15 litres/2½ pints water 6¼ cups
1.125kg/2½ lb sugar 5 cups

Halve the lemons, remove the pips and tie these in muslin. Squeeze out the lemon juice and put it on one side. Cut up the lemon peel and pith and soak in the water, with the bag of pips, for several hours or overnight. Simmer the peel in the water with the pips until tender. Check carefully that the peel is tender (see page 87) for lemon peel is often fairly tough. Remove the bag of pips and then add the sugar and lemon juice. Stir over a low heat until the sugar has melted then raise the heat and boil rapidly until setting point is reached. Allow the marmalade to cool for a short time in the pan then stir to distribute the peel. Spoon into hot jars and seal down.

Variations
Chunky Lemon Marmalade: use only 1.2 litres/2 pints (5 cups) water with the same amount of sugar; this gives a slightly thicker marmalade. The peel can be cut into somewhat larger pieces.
Lime Marmalade: use limes instead of lemons in either of the recipes above. Since limes have relatively little juice compared with lemons it is a good idea to allow 1 tablespoon (1¼ tablespoons) lemon juice or extra lime juice to each 450 g/1 lb limes. Add the lemon or extra lime juice with the sugar.
Lemon and Lime Marmalade: use 225 g/8 oz (½ lb) lemons and 225 g/8 oz (½ lb) limes in the first Variation recipe.
Lemon or Lime Jelly Marmalade: follow the directions on pages 91 to 92.

MINT MARMALADE

Cooking time: 1½ to 2 hours • Makes 1.5 kg/3⅓ lb marmalade

This is an unusual marmalade but one that takes the place of a chutney. It blends very well with hot or cold lamb.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
as Lemon Marmalade, page 93
3 tablespoons finely chopped mint 3¾ tablespoons

Make the Lemon Marmalade as described. When setting point has just been reached add the mint and stir to distribute. Cool a little in the pan so the marmalade thickens slightly then stir again to distribute both the peel and the mint. Spoon into hot jars and seal down.

MARMALADE WITH CERTO

Cooking time: 1¼ hours • Makes nearly 4 kg/9 lb marmalade

This recipe makes a marmalade with finely shredded peel and no bitter flavour. It would not set easily without the commercial pectin.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
8 to 10 Seville oranges* 8 to 10
2 lemons* 2
1.2 litres/2 pints water, plus any extra required, see method 5 cups
2.25 kg/5 lb sugar 10 cups
15 to 25 g/½ to 1 oz butter, optional 1 to 2 tablespoons
250 ml/9 fl oz Certo 1⅛ cups

*the oranges and lemons together should weigh 1.35 kg/3 lb

Remove the peel from the fruit in quarters, cut away and discard half of the white pith from this peel, leaving just the orange and lemon rind (zest). Shred this very finely and place in the preserving pan with the water. Bring to the boil, cover tightly and simmer until the peel can be easily crushed (see page 87). Stir from time to time. Meanwhile squeeze out the juice from the oranges and lemons and cut up the pulp from the peeled fruit. Discard the pips and any tough pith in this particular recipe. Add the fruit pulp and juice to the tender peel and simmer, without covering the pan, for a further 20 minutes. Measure all the cooked pulp – it should be 1.75 litres/3 pints (7½ cups); if less, add a little water. Return to the pan and heat gently. Add the sugar and stir gently over a low heat until dissolved. At this stage add the butter if desired, for this lessens the formation of scum. Raise the heat and boil rapidly for 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the Certo. Stir and skim alternately for 7 minutes, until the marmalade starts to thicken, then spoon into hot jars and seal down.

MARROW MARMALADE

Cooking time: 40 minutes • Makes 1.5 kg/3⅓ lb marmalade

It is important to use a mature autumn marrow for this preserve as these have very much more flavour than young spring marrows.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
900 g/2 lb marrow, weight when peeled and seeds removed 2 lb
3 large oranges 3 large
2 medium lemons 2 medium
3 tablespoons orange juice 3¾ tablespoons
4 tablespoons lemon juice 5 tablespoons
900 g/2 lb sugar, see method 4 cups

Cut the marrow flesh into 2.5 cm/1 inch dice. Finely grate the rind from the oranges and lemons. Halve one orange and squeeze out the 3 tablespoons (3¾ tablespoons) juice required, then halve one or both of the lemons and squeeze out the amount of juice in the ingredients. Add the grated rinds and juice to the marrow together with the sugar. In this particular marmalade you can use either granulated sugar or a soft, light brown sugar for extra flavour and colour. Cover the container and leave the marrow soaking for 2 hours then heat gently, stirring all the time, until the sugar has dissolved. Raise the heat and boil steadily until the marrow is tender, but the dice still unbroken, and setting point is reached. Cool slightly, stir to distribute the whole pieces of marrow then spoon into hot jars and seal down.

Variation

• Instead of using just the juice, halve the three oranges, carefully scoop out the orange pulp, making sure it is free from skin and pips, and add to the marrow.

ORANGE PEEL AND APPLE MARMALADE

Cooking time: 1½ hours • Makes 2.25 kg/5 lb marmalade

This is a recipe that became quite famous during the Second World War. Very few oranges were brought into the country during that period and those that were imported were sold only on ration for small children. Mothers would save the peel to make this preserve. Although it looks cloudy, like a jam, it has a very good flavour.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
peel from 450 g/1 lb sweet oranges
1.2 to 1.8 litres/2 to 3 pints water 5 to 7½ cups
450 g/1 lb cooking apples, weight when peeled and cored 1 lb
1.35 kg/3 lb sugar 6 cups

Shred the orange peel as finely as desired – do not remove any of the pith. Soak for several hours in the water; use the smaller amount if the peel is very finely shredded for it will not take as long to soften. Simmer the orange peel in the water until nearly tender. Weigh the peeled and cored apples – you can tie the parings and cores in muslin to give more flavour and setting quality to the marmalade. Dice the apples and add to the orange peel. Continue simmering, with the bag of apple parings and cores, until the peel is really tender and the apples have formed a soft purée. Remove the bag of parings and cores if using. Add the sugar and stir over a low heat until dissolved. Raise the heat and boil rapidly until setting point is reached. Cool for a short time then stir to distribute the peel, spoon into hot jars and seal down.

Variations

• For a less sweet preserve use only 1.2 kg/2½ lb sugar.

• Add 2 tablespoons (2½ tablespoons) lemon juice with the sugar for a firmer set and more flavour.

SWEET ORANGE MARMALADE (1)

Cooking time: 1¼ to 1½ hours • Makes 1.5 kg/3⅓ lb marmalade

Sweet oranges can be cooked whole without soaking, just as the Chunky Seville Orange Marmalade on page 98. A generous amount of lemon juice is necessary to ensure the preserve sets well. Oranges from different parts of the world are available throughout the year, so this is a preserve that can be made at any time. Choose large juicy fruit that is as fresh as possible to ensure the best results. Because sweet oranges cook more rapidly than Seville oranges, the amount of water should be less, and less sugar is needed for a good flavour.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
450 g/1 lb sweet oranges 1 lb
1.2 litres/2 pints water 5 cups
900 g/2 lb sugar 4 cups
4 tablespoons lemon juice 5 tablespoons

Follow the method of making marmalade as given on page 98.

SWEET ORANGE MARMALADE (2)

Cooking time: 1¼ to 1½ hours • Makes 1.5 kg/3⅓ lb marmalade

This recipe enables you to make as fine or as chunky a cut marmalade as desired.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients Amer:can
450 g/1 lb sweet oranges 1 lb
1.2 litres/2 pints water 5 cups
900 g/2 lb sugar 4 cups
4 tablespoons lemon juice 5 tablespoons

Follow the method of making marmalade as given on page 98.

Variations

Orange and Lemon Marmalade: use 2 large oranges and 2 large lemons with 1.5 litres/2½ pints (6¼ cups) water and 1.125 kg/2½ lb (5 cups) sugar plus 3 tablespoons (3¾ tablespoons) extra lemon juice. Follow the method of making Sweet Seville Marmalade on page 98. In this variation 1.125 kg/2½ lb (5 cups) sugar makes 1.8 kg/good 4 lb marmalade.

Orange and Tangerine Marmalade: use 225 g/8 oz (½ lb) sweet oranges and 225 g/8 oz (½ lb) tangerines or similar fruit with the same amount of water and sugar as the first recipe but add 5 tablespoons (6¼ tablespoons) lemon juice. Follow the recipe for Sweet Seville Marmalade on page 98.

SWEET SEVILLE ORANGE MARMALADE

Cooking time: 1½ to 2 hours • Makes 2.25 kg/5 lb marmalade

This recipe gives a pleasantly sweet preserve with the distinctive flavour of Seville oranges.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
450 g/1 lb Seville oranges 1 lb
1.8 litres/3 pints water 7½ cups
1.35 kg/3 lb sugar 6 cups
4 tablespoons lemon juice 5 tablespoons

Halve the oranges and remove the pips – tie these in muslin. Squeeze out the orange juice and put this on one side. Cut the peel and pith as finely as desired and soak in the water for several hours or overnight, together with the bag of pips. Simmer the peel in the water with the bag of pips until tender, then remove the pips. Add the sugar, orange and lemon juice and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Raise the heat and boil rapidly until the setting point is reached. Allow the marmalade to cool for a short time in the pan until it begins to stiffen then stir to distribute the peel. Spoon into hot jars and seal down.

Variations

• Use only 1.5 litres/2½ pints (6¼ cups) water with 1.125 kg/2½ lb (5 cups) sugar and the same amount of lemon juice. This gives a slightly thicker and less sweet marmalade.

Sweeter Seville Orange Marmalade: use 1 sweet orange to every 2 Seville oranges. Weigh the fruit and follow the proportions in the first recipe or the variation given above.

CHUNKY SEVILLE ORANGE MARMALADE

Cooking time: 2 hours • Makes 1.5 kg/3⅓ lb marmalade

In this recipe the fruit is not cut up but the oranges are simmered whole until tender. They are not soaked first. The main recipe below is for traditional bitter marmalade. If the fruit is very fresh, lemon juice is not necessary, but see under variations.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
450 g/1 lb Seville oranges 1 lb
1.2 litres/2 pints water 5 cups
900 g/2 lb sugar 4 cups

Put the whole fruit in the pan with the water. Simmer slowly for about 1½ hours, or until a wooden skewer or knitting needle pierces the skin with ease. Remove the fruit from the water and cool until it can be handled. Halve the fruit, remove the pips and put these pips back into the pan with the liquid. Boil steadily for 10 minutes then strain the liquid and return it to the pan. Cut up the fruit into small chunks and add to the liquid. Bring the pulp to the boil then add the sugar. Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved then raise the heat and boil rapidly until setting point is reached. Allow to cool in the pan until slightly stiffened then stir to distribute the peel. Spoon into hot jars and seal down.

Variations

• If you have had the Seville oranges for some days then add 2 tablespoons (2½ tablespoons) lemon juice. This is also important if the fruit has been frozen and then defrosted. The lemon juice should be added with the sugar.

Dark Chunky Marmalade: use half white and half dark brown sugar, or use 825 g/1¾ lb (3½ cups) white sugar and 100 g/4 oz (scant 1/3 cup) black treacle or molasses. This should be added with the sugar.

For a darker marmalade which is much milder in flavour use the amount of sugar given in the first recipe plus 1 level tablespoon (1¼ tablespoons) treacle or molasses.

QUINCE AND LEMON MARMALADE

Cooking time: 1 hour • Makes 2.25 kg/5 lb marmalade

The Spanish name for quince is ‘marmelo’ and as this fruit is frequently made into various preserves in that country this may be the origin of the word ‘marmalade’. Quinces do make a splendid breakfast preserve.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
450 g/1 lb lemons 1 lb
1.35 kg/3 lb ripe quinces 3 lb
1.5 litres/2½ pints water 6¼ cups
1.35 kg/3 lb sugar 6 cups

Finely grate the peel from the lemons or cut away the top rind (zest) and then slice this into narrow shreds. Halve the fruit and squeeze out the juice. Put this on one side. Keep the pulp, pips and pith from the lemons. Peel and core the quinces. Put the parings and cores with the lemon pith, pips and peel and tie securely in muslin. Cut the quince pulp into small dice or narrow strips, add half the lemon juice and cover the container so the fruit remains a good colour. Put the grated or shredded lemon rind and the muslin bag of quince parings and lemon pith, etc., into the water and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the diced quinces and simmer until soft. Remove the muslin bag and add the sugar and remainder of the lemon juice. Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved then boil rapidly until setting point is reached. Cool slightly, then stir to distribute the whole pieces of quince. Spoon into hot jars and seal down.

Variations

Quince and Orange Marmalade: use sweet oranges in place of lemons and the same amount of water and sugar together with 4 tablespoons (5 tablespoons) lemon juice. Grate or shred the orange rind (zest) then halve the oranges and squeeze out the juice. Prepare the quinces as above. Put half the lemon juice and all the orange juice over the quinces and allow these to stand while simmering the quince parings and orange pulp, pips and pith. Put the quinces and their juice into the preserving pan and simmer until tender then add the sugar and remaining lemon juice and continue as the recipe above.

Pear and Lemon Marmalade: use firm dessert pears in place of quinces in the main recipe above.

TANGERINE MARMALADE

Cooking time: 1¼ to 1½ hours • Makes 1.125 kg/2½ lb marmalade

There are many small citrus fruits that are somewhat similar to tangerines. Many of these, like satsumas and clementines, are seedless. This makes them excellent to eat as dessert fruit, but means that they lack pectin, so a generous amount of lemon juice is essential if using them to make preserves.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
450 g/1 lb tangerines or similar 1 lb
900 ml/1½ pints water 3¾ cups
675g/1½ lb sugar 3 cups
5 tablespoons lemon juice 6¼ tablespoons

Halve the fruit, take out the pips (if there are any) and tie these in muslin. Squeeze out the juice and put on one side. Cut up the peel, pulp and pith and soak for several hours, or overnight, in the water, adding the bag of pips. Simmer in the water until tender, then remove the pips. Add the sugar, the juice from the fruit and the lemon juice. Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved then boil rapidly until setting point is reached. Cool for a short time, then stir to distribute the peel and spoon into hot jars and seal down.

The marmalade I made with Sevllle oranges did not set properly. I used fruit that I had frozen as I had no time to make the preserve when the oranges were in season. I have never had any problems with marmalade before, why this time?

Freezing fruit destroys a little of the natural setting quality in the fruit and therefore it is necessary to add extra lemon juice or to use slightly more fruit to increase the pectin content. This is explained on page 14.

THREE FRUIT MARMALADE (1)

Cooking time: 1¼ hours • Makes 1.5 kg/3⅓ lb marmalade

The preserve made using this particular combination of fruits is often known as Scotch Marmalade. The three fruits should give a total weight of about 500 g/1 lb 2 oz.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
1 medium grapefruit 1 medium
1 medium sweet orange 1 medium
1 medium lemon 1 medium
1.2 litres/2pints water 5 cups
900 g/2 lb sugar 4 cups
2 tablespoons lemon juice 2½ tablespoons

Halve the three fruits, remove the pips and tie them in muslin. Squeeze out the juice from the fruits and put this on one side. Cut up the pulp – do not discard any pith. Put the pulp to soak in the water with the bag of pips and leave overnight. Simmer the fruits in the water with the bag of pips until the peel is really soft. Remove the pips, then add the sugar and stir over a low heat until this has dissolved. Raise the heat and boil rapidly until setting point is reached. Allow to cool in the pan for a short time, stir to distribute the peel then spoon into hot jars and seal down.

Variations

Three Fruit Marmalade (2): use 1 medium grapefruit with 2 sweet oranges and 2 lemons and prepare the fruit as in the recipe above. This marmalade does not have such a pronounced grapefruit flavour. Use the amount of fruit in Three Fruit Marmalade (1) or (2).

For a fairly chunky marmalade add 1.5 litres/2½ pints (6¼ cups) water to the fruit and pips and simmer until tender.

For a less chunky marmalade use 1.8 litres/3 pints (7½ cups) water. In this particular recipe the pulp is measured after cooking. After this, choose between the fairly sweet or less sweet marmalade below.

For a fairly sweet marmalade use 550 g/1¼ lb (2½ cups) sugar and 1½ tablespoons (nearly 2 tablespoons) lemon juice to each 600 ml/1 pint (2½ cups) fruit pulp.

For a less sweet marmalade use 450 g/1 lb (2 cups) sugar and 2 tablespoons (2½ tablespoons) lemon juice for each 600 ml/1 pint (2½ cups) pulp. Heat the pulp, add the sugar and lemon juice and continue as the first recipe.

Four Fruit Marmalade: use the three fruits in the first recipe plus 2 bitter oranges with 1.6 litres/2¾ pints (scant 7 cups) water and 1.25 kg/2¾ lb (5½ cups) sugar and 3 tablespoons (3¾ tablespoons) lemon juice.

Five Fruit Marmalade (1): use the three fruits given in the first recipe plus 1 lime and 1 bitter orange with the same proportions of water, sugar and lemon juice as in the Four Fruit Marmalade.

Five Fruit Marmalade (2): use the three fruits given in the first recipe plus 1 bitter orange and 2 clementines or tangerines with the same proportions of water, sugar and lemon juice as for the Four Fruit Marmalade.

Yield

In these variations each 500 g/1 lb 2 oz (2¼ cups) sugar will make 800 g/nearly 1¾ lb marmalade.

TOMATO MARMALADE

Cooking time: 1½ hours • Makes 2.62 kg/5¾ lb marmalade

This is one very pleasing way to use up green tomatoes. It makes a good breakfast preserve for the lemons add flavour to the tomatoes.

Metric/Imperial Ingredients American
3 lemons* 3
900 ml/1½ pints water 3¾ cups
1.35 g/3 lb green tomatoes 3 lb
1.57 kg/3½ lb sugar 7 cups

*these should weigh about 350 g/12 oz (¾ lb)

Halve the lemons, remove the pips and tie these in muslin, then squeeze out the juice and put this on one side. Cut up the peel and pith of the lemons finely and soak for several hours or overnight in the water. Simmer gently, with the bag of pips, until the peel is almost tender. Meanwhile quarter the tomatoes if small or cut into wedges if large, add to the lemons and continue cooking until the tomatoes are soft but not broken into smaller pieces. Remove the bag of pips. Add the sugar and lemon juice, stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved then raise the heat and boil rapidly until setting point is reached. Cool until the marmalade stiffens slightly, then stir to distribute the peel and pieces of tomato. Spoon into hot jars and seal down.