This section has all the practical details you’ll need on Sweden as a whole, including information on getting there, advice on getting around if Stockholm is one stop on a longer trip, overviews of the accommodation and eating scenes and guidance on everything from internet access to tipping.
Given the extremely long distances and journey times involved in reaching Sweden overland, flying will not only save you considerable amounts of time but money too. The main gateways are Stockholm and Gothenburg, as well as Copenhagen in neighbouring Denmark, just a twenty-minute train ride from Malmö.
Air fares are generally cheaper when booked as far in advance as possible. Midweek travel is less expensive than weekend departures.
At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We feel that travelling is the best way to understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – plus tourism has brought a great deal of benefit to developing economies around the world over the last few decades. But the growth in tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is exacerbated by most forms of transport, especially flying. All Rough Guides’ trips are carbon-offset, and every year we donate money to a variety of charities devoted to combating the effects of climate change.
The main two airlines operating between North America and Sweden are SAS (
flysas.com) and Norwegian ( norwegian.com). At certain times of year there are also flights with Delta and United, though this situation changes from year to year. Timetables also change frequently, though generally there are direct flights to Stockholm from New York, Chicago and San Francisco. Less expensive tickets can sometimes be found on European airlines routing via their home hub, for example British Airways ( ba.com) via London or Icelandair ( icelandair.net) via Keflavík, the latter very often being a source of reasonable fares to Sweden. From New York, a return ticket midweek fare to Stockholm (8hr) will cost around US$900 in high season, US$500 in low season. From Chicago (9hr), prices are roughly US$150 more than from New York; from the West Coast (journey time at least 12hr), you’ll pay around US$200–300 more.
There are no direct flights from Canada, so the best way of reaching Sweden is generally with Icelandair from one of their Canadian gateways such as Toronto. Several other airlines also operate flights from Toronto and Vancouver to European cities, with connections on to Stockholm. Fares from Toronto (journey time 9–13hr depending on connections) are around Can$1000 in high season, Can$600 in low season. From Vancouver (13–18hr), they’re around Can$300 higher.
Flights for Stockholm, Gothenburg and Copenhagen leave from several UK airports; in winter there are also direct flights from London Heathrow to Kiruna (available only through Discover the World). Flying to Sweden with Ryanair ( ryanair.com) is usually the cheapest way of getting there. Single fares can be as low as £15, though in peak season a return price of £90–120 is more realistic, depending on how early the booking is made. The other main airline serving Sweden is SAS ( flysas.co.uk), whose return tickets start around £130. The Scandinavian low-cost operator, Norwegian ( norwegian.com), is also an option; its fares are generally midway between those of Ryanair and SAS. For southern Sweden, try easyJet ( easyJet.com) who operate into Copenhagen. From Ireland, there are services from Dublin only, and fares are roughly the same as from the UK.
There are no direct flights to Sweden from Australia, New Zealand or South Africa and by far the cheapest option is to find a discounted air fare to London and arrange a flight to Sweden from there. Alternatively, some airlines such as Air China and Thai offer competitive fares to Stockholm via their hubs in Beijing and Bangkok respectively. Fares from Sydney to Stockholm start at around $1500; from Perth or Darwin, flights are usually around around $200 more. From New Zealand reckon on NZ$2000 as a starting point from Auckland, NZ$200 more from Wellington. From South Africa, count on around ZAR7500 for the cheapest return from Cape Town.
Getting to Sweden by train is much more expensive than flying. There are no through tickets and the total of all the tickets you’ll need from the UK is likely to cost around £300–400. Hence, it’s worth buying a rail pass instead; a global InterRail pass (from £233) or Eurail pass (from US$538) are the best options. From London, trains to Sweden go via Brussels, Cologne, Hamburg and Copenhagen. A typical journey will involve changing trains four or five times and take around 24 hours. For a dependable summary of the options of getting to Sweden by train, check out seat61.com/sweden.
Swedish Railways (SJ) 
0046 771 75 75 75, sj.se. The general agent for Swedish rail tickets.
Voyages-sncf.com 0844 848 5848, US 1 800 622 8600, Canada 1 800 361 7245; uk.voyages-scf.com
Don’t be put off by the idea of an inclusive package, as it can sometimes be the cheapest way of doing things, and a much easier way of reaching remote areas of northern Sweden in winter. City breaks are invariably less expensive than if you arrange the same trip independently. There are also an increasing number of operators offering special-interest holidays to Sweden, particularly Arctic expeditions.
Abercrombie & Kent US 1 800 554 7016, abercrombiekent.com. Top-end tours of Scandinavia by land and sea.
Bentours International Australia 1800 221712, bentours.com.au. The leading Australian specialist to Sweden offering air, ferry and rail tickets and a host of (often upmarket) escorted and independent tours throughout Scandinavia.
Contiki Tours US 1 888 CONTIKI, contiki.com. Budget tours of Scandinavia for 18- to 35-year-olds.
Discover the World UK 01737 214250, discover-the-world.co.uk. This long-established, professional and upmarket company knows the country like the back of its hand. It is the only company selling a direct flight from London Heathrow to Kiruna and is the world’s largest tour operator to Icehotel in Jukkasjärvi.
Nordic Experience UK 01206 708888, nordicexperience.co.uk/sweden. Mid-priced holidays to various regions of Sweden, including Lapland and Icehotel, and trips out to lakes and mountains.
Scanam World Tours US 1 800 545 2204, scanamtours.com. Specializes in mid-range Scandinavian tours and cruises for groups and individuals. Also offers cheap weekend breaks.
Scantours US 1 800 223 7226, scantours.com. Major Scandinavian holiday specialists offering upmarket vacation packages and customized itineraries, including cruises and city sightseeing tours.
Taber Holidays UK 01274 875199, taberhols.co.uk. A wide range of Swedish holidays from this Yorkshire-based tour operator – everything from tours in the Stockholm archipelago to trips on the Inlandsbanan.
The public transport system in Sweden is one of Europe’s most efficient. There’s a comprehensive train network in the south of the country; in the north travelling by train isn’t quite so easy, as many loss-making branch lines have been closed. However, it’s still possible to reach the main towns in the north by train, and where train services no longer exist, buses generally cover the same routes.
Look out for city and regional discount cards, which often give free use of local transport, free museum entry and other discounts.
Other than flying, train travel is the quickest and easiest way of covering Sweden’s vast expanses. The service is generally excellent and prices are not that high. At holiday times and between mid-June and mid-August, trains are often heavily booked; it’s worth making reservations (often compulsory) as far in advance as you can. The national train operator is SJ ( 0771 75 75 75, sj.se) which runs an extensive network across the whole of Sweden. For train and connecting bus information visit resrobot.se. Many station names in Sweden carry the letter C after the name of the city, for example: Stockholm C; this is a “railspeak” abbreviation of Central.
Individual train tickets are rarely cost-effective and visitors doing a lot of touring by train may be better off buying a train pass such as InterRail. A one-country InterRail pass ( interrail.eu) for Sweden allows up to eight days’ travel in one month and starts at £153. If you do need to buy an individual ticket, it’s worth knowing that the sooner you buy it the cheaper it will be. The cheapest tickets, limited in number, cost 95kr on most SJ routes (195kr on express trains) and are available up to ninety days before departure. Reserved seats on Swedish trains are not marked, so although it may appear that a seat is free it may not be so.
If you’re in Sweden for any length of time, travelling at least part of the summer-only Inlandsbanan (Inland Railway; 0771 53 53 53, inlandsbanan.se), which runs through central and northern Sweden, is a must. The route takes in some of the country’s most unspoilt terrain – kilometre after kilometre of forests, and several lakes (the train usually stops at one or two of them for passengers to take a quick dip), and offers a chance to see real off-the-beaten-track Sweden. For more information, see ‘The Inlandsbanan’. The length of the operating season varies from year to year, but trains generally run from some time in June through to August; check the website for the latest details.
Although bus travel is a little less expensive than going by train, long-distance buses are generally less frequent, and so much slower that they aren’t a good choice for long journeys. Most long-distance buses are operated by one of two companies, Swebus ( 0771 218 218, swebus.se) and Nettbuss ( 0771 15 15 15, gobybus.se). Departures on Friday and Sunday cost more than on other days; a standard single ticket from Stockholm to Gothenburg, for example, costs from 240kr.
Regional buses are particularly important in the north, where they carry mail to isolated areas. Several companies operate daily services, and their fares are broadly similar to one another’s (usually 250–350kr for a 1–2hr journey). Major routes are listed in the “Destinations” sections within each chapter, and you can pick up a comprehensive timetable at any bus terminal.
The main players in the Swedish domestic airline market are: SAS ( sas.se), BRA ( flygbra.se), Norwegian ( norwegian.se) and Nextjet ( nextjet.se). When booked well in advance, one-way fares on most routes begin at around 450kr.
In a country with such an extensive coastline and many lakes, it’s only natural that domestic ferry services in Sweden are many and varied. The main route is between Visby, on the Baltic island of Gotland, and Nynäshamn, on the mainland near Stockholm. Departures are very popular in summer and you should try to book ahead.
Many of the various archipelagos off the coast – particularly the Stockholm archipelago with its 24,000 islands – have ferry services which link up the main islands in the group. There’s also an extensive archipelago off Luleå which is worth visiting.
As far as road conditions go, driving in Sweden is a dream. Traffic jams are rare (in fact in the north of the country yours will often be the only car on the road), roads are well maintained and motorways, where they exist, are toll-free. The only real hazards are reindeer (in the north), elk and deer, which wander onto the road without warning. It’s difficult enough to see them at dusk, and when it’s completely dark all you’ll see is two red eyes as the animal leaps out in front of your car. If you hit an elk or deer, not only will you know about it (they’re as big as a horse), but you’re bound by law to report it to the police.
To drive in Sweden, you’ll need your own full licence; an international driving licence isn’t required. Speed limits are 110kph on motorways; 70kph, 80kph or 90kph on main roads; and 30kph, 40kph or 50kph in built-up areas. For cars towing caravans, the limit is 80kph. Fines for speeding are levied on the spot. You must drive with your headlights on 24 hours a day. Studded tyres for driving on snow and ice are allowed between October 1 and April 30, longer if there’s still snow on the ground; when in use they must be fitted to all wheels.
Swedish drink-driving laws are among the strictest in Europe, and random breath tests are commonplace. Basically, you can’t have even one beer and still be under the limit; the blood alcohol level is 0.2 percent. If you’re found to be over the limit you’ll lose the right to drive in Sweden, face a fine (often) and a prison sentence (not infrequently).
Be attentive when it comes to parking. Under Swedish law you can’t park within 10m of a road junction, be it a tiny residential cul-de-sac or a major intersection. Parking is also prohibited within 10m of a pedestrian crossing, and in bus lanes and loading zones. In city centres, parking isn’t permitted on one night each week to allow for cleaning (see the rectangular yellow signs with days and times in Swedish, below the “no stopping” sign on every street). In winter the same applies to allow for snow clearance.
The cost of petrol (bensin) is in line with the European average (about 13kr per litre). At filling stations, you either pay at the pump with a credit card or inside at the till – choose the pumps marked “Kassa” for this.
Some parts of the country were made for cycling: Stockholm, the southern provinces and Gotland in particular are ideal for a leisurely bike ride. Many towns are best explored by bike, and tourist offices, campsites and youth hostels often rent them out from around 150kr a day. There are a lot of cycle paths in towns, which are often shared with pedestrians.
Finding somewhere cheap to stay in Sweden isn’t difficult. There’s an extensive network of youth hostels (of an exceptionally high standard) and campsites, while hotels and guesthouses are common in towns and cities. Self-catering accommodation is generally restricted to youth hostels and campsites, where cabins are often equipped with kitchens.
Accommodation prices in Sweden vary according to the day of the week and the season. Pricing falls into two main categories: the higher price is charged for stays from Sunday to Thursday outside of the summer peak (generally mid-June to mid-Aug); the lower rate is charged on Fridays and Saturdays. This lower rate is also applied every day during the summer peak. Remember though that this rule does not apply across the board and there are some places that actually charge higher prices in summer in line with most other countries; this is usually the case with hotels on the west coast. When we give two prices in the guide, these reflect the difference in price according to season or day, with the high-season and weekend rate generally given first.
Single rooms, where available, usually cost between sixty and eighty percent of the price.
Youth hostels in Sweden (vandrarhem) turn up in the unlikeliest of places. There are over three hundred of them dotted across the country, in converted lighthouses, old castles and prisons, historic country manors, schoolrooms and even on boats. Quite simply, they offer some of the best accommodation in the country. Forget any preconceptions about youth hostelling: in Sweden, dormitories are few, and most hostels only rent double rooms.
The majority of hostels are run by STF (Svenska Turistföreningen; 08 463 22 70, svenskaturistforeningen.se). Apart from the STF hostels there are a number of independently run hostels, usually charging similar prices; we’ve mentioned the most useful ones in the text, and tourist offices will have details of any other local independent hostels.
Throughout the guide we give the non-member prices for staying in an STF hostel; members pay 50kr less per stay at every hostel in the country. Generally, the rental of linen and towels is not included in the price of a room or bed; we have noted any exceptions in the book.
Fell stations (fjällstationer), or mountain lodges, provide top-notch, hostel-like accommodation along mountain hiking routes; prices vary and are given in the guide. They’re usually better equipped than the average youth hostel: rooms are private rather than dorms, and each fell station has a sauna, a shop and a kitchen.
Mountain cabins (fjällstugor), of which there are around ninety in the country, are often no more than simple huts out in the wilds and are wonderful for getting away from it all. Run by the STF, they are generally located at convenient intervals along popular walking routes. Both fell stations and mountain cabins allow you to use a sleeping bag without a sheet underneath.
Hotels and guesthouses (usually family-run bed and breakfast establishments) needn’t be expensive, and although there’s little chance of finding any kind of room for under 550kr a night, you can often find good-value hotel rooms in summer, especially between mid-June and mid-August, when business people who would otherwise fill the hotels during the week are on holiday. The only parts of the country where summer discounts don’t apply are in some of the popular holiday destinations in southern Sweden such as Gotland, where prices can actually go up in summer. Nearly all hotels include a huge self-service buffet breakfast in the price, which will keep you going for much of the day.
Practically every town or village has at least one campsite, and they are generally of a high standard. To pitch a tent at any of them you’ll need the Camping Key Europe card, which costs 150kr and is issued at the first site you visit; contact the Swedish Camping Site Owners’ Association ( camping.se). It costs around 200kr for two people to pitch a tent at an official campsite and most sites are open from June to August. For details on camping rough, see ‘The Countryside – Some Ground Rules’.
Many campsites also boast cabins, each of which is usually equipped with bunk beds, a kitchen and utensils, but not sheets. Self-catering in cabins is a good way to keep costs down. Cabins start around 500kr per night for a two-bed number. As usual, it’s wise to book ahead to secure one. Sweden also has a whole series of cabins for rent in spots other than campsites, often in picturesque locations such as in the middle of the forest, by a lakeshore or on the coast. For information and to make a booking, contact the local tourist office.
From meatballs to marinated herring, cloudberries to cinnamon buns, Swedish food is always tasty. There’s no escaping the fact, however, that eating and drinking is going to take up a large slice of your budget in Sweden – though no more so than in any other northern European country.
Eating well and eating cheaply needn’t be mutually exclusive aims, however. The best strategy is to fuel up on breakfast and lunch, both of which offer good-value options. Breakfast is often included in the cost of a night’s accommodation, and most restaurants have lunchtime specials (dagens rätt) that time and again are the best-value meals you’ll find. When eating out, resist the temptation to order a starter – throughout Sweden portions are generous and most main dishes are large enough to fill even the emptiest stomach.
Note that although tipping in Swedish restaurants is not expected, it is customary to round the bill up to the nearest 20kr or so.
Coffee is to the Swedes what tea is to the British and there’s seemingly no part of the day which isn’t perfect for a “fika”: a cup of coffee, accompanied by a pastry or piece of cake. Unsurprisingly, coffee is something the Swedes excel at, and is always freshly brewed, strong and delicious – head for the local konditori, a coffee and cake shop of the first order. A coffee costs around 25kr and the price will often buy you more than one cup.
Swedish food – based largely on fish, meat and potatoes, and very varied in preparation – is always tasty and well presented and, at its best, is delicious. Unusual specialities generally come from the north of the country and include reindeer, elk meat and wild berries, while herring and salmon come in so many different guises that fish fiends will always be content.
Sweden’s various salmon dishes are divine either warm or cold, and a mainstay of any Swedish smorgasbord worth its salt. Herring is mostly served marinated, but don’t let that put you off as it tastes surprisingly good. Sauces feature prominently in Swedish cooking, often flavoured with dill or parsley; alternatively, there are many delicious creamy concoctions too.
Wild berries appear in many dishes, especially the lingonberry, which is something like a cranberry, and makes a good accompaniment to Swedish meatballs, a combination praised by many a Swede as a delicacy of the country. You’ll also be able to taste orange-coloured sweet cloudberries, which grow in the marshes of Lapland and are delicious with ice cream.
One Swedish speciality to keep an eye out for is surströmming, which is Baltic herring fermented for months until it’s rotten – something of an acquired taste, even to most Swedes.
Vegetarians should have no problems, with plenty of non-meat options available, especially in the bigger towns; elsewhere the choice may be limited to pizzas and salads.
Breakfast (frukost) is almost invariably a help-yourself buffet in the best Swedish tradition; you can go up to the serving table as many times as you like and eat until you’re fit to explode. Youth hostels charge around 50kr for breakfast; if you stay in a hotel, it’ll be included in the price of your accommodation.
For snacks and light meals you’re really looking at the delights dished up by the gatukök (street kitchen). A gatukök is often no more than a hole in the wall – generally conspicuous by the snaking queue and gaggle of teenagers it attracts – serving sausages, burgers, chips, soft drinks and sometimes pizza slices or chicken pieces. Chips with a sausage or burger generally comes to around 75kr.
For the cheapest eating it’s hard to beat the supermarkets and market stalls. Of the supermarket chains, ICA and Coop have the biggest range of produce but most supermarkets in Sweden are small local affairs selling just the basics and a few other bits and pieces. Alternatively, head for the indoor or outdoor markets, which often have fresher produce than the supermarkets, and at lower prices.
Fish is always excellent value, especially salmon. Pork and beef aren’t too bad either, but chicken is slightly more expensive. Sweden is a country rich in cheeses, all of which are reasonably good value and make great sandwich fillers; the range runs from stronger ripened cheeses such as Västerbotten and Svecia to milder types like Grevé and Herrgårdsost. Prästost, a medium-strong cheese akin to a mature Cheddar, is also a particular favourite here.
Swedes eat their main meal of the day at lunchtime; do likewise and you’ll save lots of cash. However, you don’t have to restrict yourself to eating out at lunchtime; many restaurants also offer special deals in the evening, and even if they don’t you’re bound to find something on their menu that will fit your pocket. Remember that Swedish portions are generous and that, accordingly, you may not have room for a starter as well.
Bear in mind that Swedes eat early; lunch will be served from 11am, dinner from 6pm. It’s always a good idea to book a table to avoid disappointment, particularly during the summer months of June to August when tables can be at a premium. Smoking is not allowed in restaurant or pubs.
At lunchtime, go for the dagens rätt or set dish of the day, which generally costs between 75kr and 125kr and is one way to sample Swedish husmanskost (home cooking). You’ll also find various pizza and pasta dishes on offer in Italian restaurants, and basic meals in Thai and Chinese restaurants (sometimes a buffet-type spread). Most cafés also offer some sort of dagens rätt but their standard of cooking is often not as good as in restaurants.
An evening meal in a mid-range restaurant will cost you 150–250kr without alcohol. A three-course meal naturally costs more; expect to pay something in the region of 400–600kr, and add around 75kr for a strong beer, or 300kr for an average bottle of wine. Dishes usually have some sort of salad accompaniment and come with bread.
While you’re in Sweden you should sample a smorgasbord – an array of small dishes, both warm and cold. It’s available in the larger restaurants and in hotels for around 400–500kr – expensive, but good for a blowout. If you’re a traditionalist you should start with akvavit, drink beer throughout and finish with coffee. Coffee will be included in the price, but alcohol won’t.
Drinking in Sweden can be expensive, but there are ways of softening the blow. Either forgo bars and buy your booze in the state-run liquor shops, the Systembolaget, or seek out the happy hours (usually called After Work in Swedish) offered at many pubs and bars. The timing of happy hours is usually set to coincide with people finishing work, so keep your eyes peeled for signs either in bar windows or on the pavement outside. Drinking outdoors is frowned upon and you’re not allowed to take alcohol onto a train or the street for your own consumption (drinking alcohol purchased on trains or in pavement cafés is permitted).
In any Swedish town or city, the Systembolaget is the only shop that sells wine, strong beer and spirits. It’s run by the state, is only open office hours (generally Mon–Wed & Fri 10am–6pm, Thurs till 7pm, Sat 10am–2pm) and until quite recently kept all its alcohol on display in locked glass cabinets – this is still the case in many smaller stores. Debate over the future of the system rumbles on and Sweden is coming under increasing pressure from the European Commission to liberalize the sale of alcohol and open up the market to free competition.
Beer is the most common alcoholic drink in Sweden, although it can be expensive. Whether you buy beer in a café, restaurant or a bar, it’ll cost roughly the same, on average 55–75kr for half a litre of lager-type brew. Unless you specify otherwise, the beer you get in a bar will be starköl (also referred to as storstark), with an alcohol content of 5.6 percent by volume. Low-alcohol beers are available for sale in supermarkets.
Wine in restaurants is pricey; a bottle will set you back something like 300kr, and a glass around 75kr. It’s also worth trying the akvavit or schnapps, which is made from potatoes, served ice-cold in tiny shots and washed down with beer. It comes in dozens of weird and wonderful flavours, from lemon to cumin-and-dill. If you’re in Sweden at Christmas, don’t go home without having sampled glögg: mulled red wine with cloves, cinnamon, sugar and more than a shot of akvavit.
You’ll find pubs and bars in all towns and some villages. In Stockholm and the larger cities the trend is towards British- and Irish-style pubs, although the atmosphere inside never quite lives up to the original. Elsewhere – particularly in the north of the country – you’ll come across more down-to-earth drinking dens. Drink is no cheaper here, and the clientele is predominantly male and usually drunk.
In the summer, café-bars spill out onto the pavement, which is a more suitable environment for children and handy if all you want is a coffee. When you can’t find a bar in an out-of-the-way place, head for the local hotel – but be prepared to pay for the privilege. Bar opening hours are elastic, and drinking-up time is generally some time after midnight. Smoking is banned in all of Sweden’s restaurants, bars, cafés and nightclubs.
Stockholm is the centre of the Swedish media world. All national radio and television stations are broadcast from the capital, and the country’s four main daily newspapers are also based there. However, every region or city also has its own newspaper, for example Göteborgsposten in Gothenburg or Norrbottens tidning in Lapland. In remote parts of the country, particularly in the north, these local media really come into their own; in winter, people depend on them for accurate and up-to-date information on everything from local political machinations to snow depths in the vicinity.
The main Swedish papers are Dagens Nyheter and Svenska Dagbladet and the tabloids, Expressen and Aftonbladet. You may also come across Metro, a free newspaper available at train and tube stations, which has lots of “what’s on” information; its listings are in Swedish only, but will be comprehensible enough if you don’t speak the language.
Swedish TV won’t take up much space on your postcards home. There are two state channels, SVT1 and SVT2, operated by Sveriges Television (SVT), worth watching if only for the wooden continuity announcers. TV3 is a pretty dire cable station, and Sweden’s only terrestrial commercial station is the somewhat downmarket TV4. TV5 is a cheesy cable channel available in most hotels that seems to show nothing but a string of American sitcoms. On all the channels, foreign programmes are in their original language, which makes for easy viewing; SVT1 and SVT2 show a lot of excellent BBC documentaries and comedy programmes.
On the radio, you’ll find pop and rock music on P3 and classical music on P2 – all operated by state broadcaster, Sveriges Radio (Swedish Radio; sr.se for frequencies). You’ll also find news in English online courtesy of Radio Sweden (Swedish Radio’s international arm; radiosweden.org).
Swedish festivals are for the most part organized around the seasons. Most celebrations are lively events, as Swedes are great party people – once the beer begins to flow. The highlight of the year is the midsummer festival, when the whole country gets involved, and wild parties last well into the early hours. The date of Midsummer’s Day varies from year to year but is the Saturday closest to the actual summer solstice.
Great Winter Market, Jokkmokk (first Thursday to Sunday of February). Thirty thousand people flock to Jokkmokk for its famous 400-year-old winter market ( jokkmokksmarknad.se); see ‘Jokkmokks Marknad: The Great Winter Market’.
Valborgsmässoafton (April 30). Walpurgis Night. One of the most important festivals in Sweden, heralding the beginning of spring with bonfires and songs.
Labour Day (May 1). A none-too-thrilling marching day for the workers’ parties.
Swedish National Day (June 6). In existence since 1983, though a bit of a damp squib even though it’s now a public holiday; worthy speeches are delivered in the evening and the king often puts in an appearance at Skansen in Stockholm.
Midsummer (the Fri & Sat between June 20 and June 26). The biggest and best celebration anywhere in Sweden, with festivities centred around the maypole, an old fertility symbol, which is erected at popular gatherings across the country. The maypole is raised in June because it’s often still snowing in northern Sweden in May. There’s much dancing and drinking into the night – and severe hangovers the next morning. The most famous celebrations in the country are those held in Dalarna, which culminate in the church boat (kyrkbåtar) races held on Lake Siljan.
Pajala market (second weekend after midsummer). Forty thousand people make their way to Pajala in northern Sweden for this annual market.
Musik vid Dellen, Hudiksvall (beginning of July). Ten-day cultural festival, featuring folk music and more ( musikviddellen.se).
Årets Näck, Hackås (second Thursday in July). Male fiddle players strip naked to play their instruments in the local river at this annual competition ( hackas.se/n-cken).
Ystad Opera Festival (most of July).
Åre Bike Festival (July). Four-day mountain-bike competition ( arebikefestival.com).
Gotland chamber music festival (end of July). Week-long music festival held at the church of St Nicolaus in Visby ( gotlandchamber.se).
Crayfish parties (throughout Aug). Held in the August moonlight across the country to say a wistful farewell to the short Swedish summer. Competitions are often held to establish the season’s best and tastiest crayfish.
Malmöfestivalen, Malmö (Aug). Eight days of free music and entertainment ( malmofestivalen.se).
Medieval Week, Visby (second week of August). Re-enactment of the Danish conquest of Gotland, featuring music, medieval food and jousting.
Surströmming (late Aug). In coastal areas of northern Sweden, particularly along the High Coast, parties are held at which people eat surströmming, a foul-smelling fermented Baltic herring which is something of an acquired taste – though a quintessentially Swedish experience.
Römpäviiko, Pajala (last week of Sept). The “romp week” cultural festival features live music and street stalls.
Nobel Prize Day (Dec 10). Official ceremonies are held in Stockholm as the winners of the annual Nobel Prizes are awarded. Although this is not a public festival, it is a key date in the Swedish calendar.
St Lucia’s Day (Dec 13). Led by a girl with a crown of candles, this is a procession of children who sing songs as they bring light into the darkest month. For many Swedes, this is a welcome highlight during the ever-shortening days of December and a chance to look forward to Christmas and the longer nights of January and onwards.
Sweden is a wonderful place if you love the great outdoors, with fantastic hiking, fishing and, of course, winter-sports opportunities. Best of all you won’t find the countryside overcrowded – there’s plenty of space to get away from it all, especially in the north. You’ll also find Swedish lakes and beaches refreshingly relaxed and always clean.
In Sweden you’re entitled by law to walk, jog, camp, cycle, ride or ski on other people’s land, provided you don’t cause damage to crops, forest plantations or fences; this is the centuries-old Allemansrätten or Everyman’s Right. It also allows you to pick wild berries, mushrooms and wild flowers (except protected species), fish and swim, where there are no nearby houses. But this right brings with it certain obligations: you shouldn’t get close to houses or walk across gardens or on land under seed or crops; pitch a tent on land used for farming; camp close to houses without asking permission; cut down trees or bushes; or break branches or strip the bark off trees. Nor are you allowed to drive off-road (look out for signs saying “Ej motorfordon”, no motor vehicles, or “Enskild väg”, private road); nor light a fire if there’s a risk of it spreading; nor disturb wildlife.
It’s common sense to be wary of frightening reindeer herds in the north of Sweden; if they scatter it can mean several extra days’ hard work for the herders. Also avoid tramping over the lichen – the staple diet of reindeer – covering stretches of moorland. As you might expect, any kind of hunting is forbidden without a permit. National parks have special regulations which are posted on huts and at entrances.
During the winter months, skiing – a sport which began in Scandinavia – is incredibly popular, and in the north of Sweden people even ski to work. The most popular ski resorts are Åre, Idre, Sälen and Riksgränsen; these and many others are packed out during the snow season when prices hit the roof. If you do intend to come to ski, it is essential to book accommodation well in advance or take a package holiday.
In northern Sweden you can ski from the end of October well into April, and at Riksgränsen in Lappland you can ski under the midnight sun from late May to the end of June when the snow finally melts. Riksgränsen is also the place to head for if you’re into snowboarding.
Kiruna is a good bet as a base for other winter pursuits, whether you fancy dog-sledding, snowmobile-riding, a night in the world’s biggest igloo (Icehotel at Jukkasjärvi) or ice fishing. Bear in mind, though, that the area around Kiruna is one of the coldest in the country, and temperatures in the surrounding mountains can sink to -50°C during a really cold snap.
Sweden’s Right of Public Access, Allemansrätten, means you can walk freely right across the entire country. A network of more than forty long-distance footpaths covers the whole of Sweden, with overnight accommodation available in mountain stations and huts. The most popular route is the Kungsleden, the King’s Route, which can get rather busy in July at times, but is still enjoyable. The path stretches for 460km between Abisko and Hemavan, passing through some spectacular landscape in the wild and isolated northwest of the country; the trail also takes in Sweden’s highest mountain, Kebnekaise (2102m).
There are almost one hundred thousand lakes and thousands of kilometres of rivers and canals in Sweden. Needless to say, on summer afternoons taking to a canoe is a popular pastime; a good area for this is the Stockholm archipelago. Another excellent alternative is rafting down the Klarälven River in Värmland; one of the companies offering rafting tours even allows you to build your own raft before departure.
Most public swimming pools and hotels, even in the smallest towns, will have a sauna. They’re generally electric and extra steam is created by tossing water onto the hot elements. The temperature inside ranges from 70°C to 120°C. Traditional wood-burning saunas are often found in the countryside and give off a wonderful smell. Public saunas are always single-sex and nude; you’ll often see signs forbidding the wearing of swimming costumes, as these would collect your sweat and allow it to soak into the wooden benches. It’s common practice to take a cold shower afterwards or, in winter, roll in the snow to cool off.
Otherwise in the countryside, people often take a dip in a nearby lake. As Sweden boasts around 100,000 lakes and one of the lowest population densities in Europe, you needn’t worry about stripping off for a spot of skinny-dipping.
Sweden is an ideal country for anglers. Salmon are regularly caught from opposite the Parliament building right in the centre of Stockholm, because the water is so clean and fishing there is free. Fishing is also free along the coastline and in the larger lakes, including Vänern, Vättern (particularly good for salmon and char) and Mälaren. In the north of the country, Tärnaby offers top-class mountain fishing for char and trout; and nearby Sorsele is good for fly-fishing for trout, char and grayling. For salmon fishing, the river running up through the Torne Valley is one of the best places. In most areas you need a permit for freshwater fishing, so ask at local tourist offices.
In many ways, Sweden is a model country: society is liberal, people are prosperous and the social and economic position of women is one of the most advanced in the world. As a result, most visitors find Sweden an easy country to visit.
Swedes, in general, are an efficient nation – planning meticulously and booking ahead to ensure they get what they want, when they want. Accordingly, spontaneity and flexibility are not high on the agenda in Sweden, which can sometimes create a mistaken impression of rudeness to the outsider. Honesty and straight-talking are two highly cherished sides of the Swedish character; a promise in Sweden is just that. Haggling over prices is not the done thing. On meeting, friends of both sexes usually hug, rather than kiss, each other. In more formal situations, people shake hands while saying their name.
In line with the liberal reputation Sweden gained during the 1970s as a result of countless soft porn films, nudity is widely accepted. In changing rooms, people are uninhibited about their bodies and don’t feel the need to cover up with a towel. Nude lake swimming and sunbathing are common practice across the country. If other people are around, show them consideration, but you’re unlikely to meet opposition.
Entry into museums is often free. However, where this is not the case expect to pay around 70kr for admission. In winter, there is often a compulsory charge to check your coat when entering a bar or restaurant; this is usually around 30kr.
Summer weather in Sweden is similar to that in southern Britain, though there are more hours of sunshine; the average temperature in Stockholm, for example, is the same as that in London. By the end of August, though, northernmost Sweden is usually experiencing its first frosts. Snow can fall any time from around September onwards and in the Stockholm area there is usually – though not always – snow cover from early December to late March. Winters in the far south of the country are mild and often snow-free.
Daylight is just as important as temperatures in Sweden. In December, it doesn’t get light in Stockholm until around 9.30am and it’s dark by around 3pm. North of the Arctic Circle there’s 24-hour darkness from mid-December to mid-January, and the merest glow of light at noon during the months immediately either side. Conversely, at the height of summer there’s no part of Sweden which is dark for any length of time; in the far north there’s 24-hour daylight and midnight sun from the end of May until the end of June, and April and July are very light months.
Although often considered the most expensive country in Europe, Sweden is in fact cheaper than all the other Nordic countries and no more expensive than, say, France or Germany. If you don’t mind having your main meal of the day at lunchtime – like the Swedes – or having picnics under the midnight sun with goodies bought from the supermarket, travelling by the efficient public transport system and going easy on the nightlife, you’ll find Sweden isn’t the financial drain you might expect.
You’ll find you can exist – camping, self-catering, hitching, no drinking – on a fairly low budget (around £40/US$50/€45 a day), though it will be a pretty miserable experience and only sustainable for a limited period of time. Stay in hostels, eat the dagens rätt at lunchtime, get out and see the sights and drink the odd beer or two and you’ll be looking at doubling your expenditure. Once you start having restaurant meals with wine, taking a few taxis, enjoying coffees and cakes and staying in hotel accommodation, you’ll probably spend considerably more (£100-150/US$150-200/€120-170 a day).
Sweden is in general a safe country to visit, and this extends to women travelling alone. However, it would be foolish to assume that Stockholm and the bigger cities are free of petty crime, fuelled as elsewhere by a growing number of drug addicts and alcoholics after easy money. Keep tabs on your cash and passport (and don’t leave anything valuable in your car when you park it) and you should have little reason to visit the police. If you do, you’ll find them courteous, concerned and, perhaps most importantly, usually able to speak English.
As for offences you might commit, a big no-no is drinking alcohol in public places (which includes trains). Being drunk in the streets can get you arrested, and drunk driving is treated especially rigorously. Drugs offences, too, meet with the same harsh attitude that prevails throughout the majority of Europe.
Although racism is not a major problem in Sweden, it would be wrong to say it doesn’t exist. It stems mainly from a small but vocal neo-Nazi movement, VAM (their full name translates as “White Aryan Resistance”), who occasionally daub slogans like “Behålla Sverige Svenskt” (Keep Sweden Swedish) on walls in towns and cities and on the Stockholm metro. Although there have been several racist murders and many attacks on dark-skinned foreigners over the past couple of years, it’s still the exception rather than the rule. Keep your eyes and ears open and avoid trouble, especially on Friday and Saturday nights when drink can fuel these prejudices.
The supply is 220V, although appliances requiring 240V will work perfectly well. Plugs have two round pins. Remember that if you’re staying in a cottage out in the wilds, electricity may not be available.
European Union, American, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand citizens need only a valid passport to enter Sweden, and can stay for up to three months. Once the three months are up, EU nationals can apply for a resident’s permit (uppehållstillstånd) to cover longer visits. For further information on where to obtain the permits, contact the Swedish embassy in your home country.
Australia 5 Turrana St, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 Canberra 02 6270 2700, swedenabroad.com.
Canada 377 Dalhousie St, Ottawa, ON K1N 9N8 613 244 8220, swedenabroad.com.
South Africa I Parioli Complex, 1166 Park St, Pretoria 012 426 64 00, swedenabroad.com.
UK 11 Montagu Place, London W1H 2AL 020 7917 6400, swedenabroad.com.
US 2900 K St NW, Washington, DC 20007 202 467 2600, swedenabroad.com.
EU nationals can take advantage of Sweden’s health services under the same terms as residents of the country. For this you’ll need a European Health Insurance Card. Citizens of non-EU countries will be charged for all medical services, although US visitors will find that medical treatment is far less expensive than they are accustomed to at home. Even so it is advisable to take out travel insurance. Note that you need a doctor’s prescription to get even minor painkillers in Sweden, so bring your own supplies.
There’s no local doctor system in Sweden. Instead, go to the nearest hospital with your passport (and Health Insurance Card, if applicable) and they’ll treat you; the casualty department is called Akutmottagning or Vårdcentral. The fee for staying in hospital overnight depends on the care you need.
For dental treatment, foreign citizens generally have to pay in full for treatment. You can spot a dental surgery by looking out for the sign “Tandläkare” or “Folktandvården”. An emergency dental service is available in most major towns and cities out of hours – look in the windows of the local pharmacy for contact telephone numbers.
In the countryside, be aware of ticks, which can spread tick-borne encephalitis and Lyme disease.
Mosquitoes are common throughout Sweden and it’s sensible to protect yourself against bites. Although Swedish mosquitoes don’t carry diseases, they can torment your every waking moment from the end of June, when the warmer weather causes them to hatch, until around mid-August. They are found in their densest concentrations in the north of the country, where there’s swampy ground, and are most active early in the morning and in the late afternoon/early evening.
The best way to protect yourself is to wear thick clothing (though not dark colours, which attract them) and apply mosquito repellent to any exposed skin. When camping, make a smoky fire of (damp) peat if feasible, as mosquitoes don’t like smoke. Don’t scratch mosquito bites (myggbett); treat them instead with Salubrin or Alsolsprit creams, or something similar, available from local chemists.
Ticks (fästingar) are fast becoming a big problem in Sweden due to a succession of milder winters. The country has one of the highest rates of tick-borne encephalitis in Europe, a disease which causes fever and nausea, and in a third of cases spreads to the brain; it causes lasting damage in forty percent of people infected. A third of all ticks also carry the bacteria which cause Lyme disease, an illness which can lead to inflammation of the brain and nerves. The insects, which burrow painlessly into the skin, are prevalent predominantly on the east coast and islands and are active from March to November. Their preferred habitat is warm, slightly moist undergrowth, bushes and meadows with long grass. In addition to vaccination, sprays, roll-ons and creams are available in local pharmacies; eating large amounts of garlic is also effective in keeping ticks away, and you should also wear long-sleeved tops and trousers tucked into your socks.
Even though EU health-care rights apply in Sweden, you’d do well to take out an insurance policy before travelling to cover against theft, loss and illness or injury. Before paying for a new policy, however, it’s worth checking whether you are already covered: some all-risks home insurance policies may cover your possessions when overseas, and many private medical schemes include cover when abroad.
Rough Guides has teamed up with WorldNomads.com to offer great travel insurance deals. Policies are available to residents of over 150 countries, with cover for a wide range of adventure sports, 24-hour emergency assistance, high levels of medical and evacuation cover and a stream of travel safety information. Roughguides.com users can take advantage of their policies online 24/7, from anywhere in the world – even if you’re already travelling. And since plans often change when you’re on the road, you can extend your policy and even claim online. Roughguides.com users who buy travel insurance with WorldNomads.com can also leave a positive footprint and donate to a community development project. For more information go to roughguides.com/shop.
Almost all accommodation establishments offer free internet access to guests. Elsewhere, you can get online for free at Pressbyrån newsagents and also on most SJ trains.
Sweden is an exemplary country when it comes to travelling with children. Most hotels and youth hostels have family rooms and both men’s and women’s toilets – including those on trains – usually offer baby-changing areas. There’s a host of child-friendly attractions and activities on offer, from Viking museums to river rafting, theme parks to wildlife sanctuaries. Always ask for children’s discounts, as many activities, particularly during the summer months, are geared towards families.
Sweden has very few public laundries. Your only option to wash your clothes on the road is at youth hostels where there is generally a laundry on site for guest use.
Swedish attitudes to gay men and lesbians are remarkably liberal – on a legal level at least – when compared to most other Western countries, with both the government and the law proudly geared towards the promotion of gay rights and equality (the official age of sexual consent is 15 whether you are gay or straight).
In 1995, Sweden introduced its registered-partnership law, despite unanimous opposition in parliament from the right-wing Moderates and Christian Democrats. Ten years on, in July 2005, the Swedish parliament granted lesbians the right to artificial insemination.
Paradoxically, the acceptance of gays and lesbians in society as a whole can at best be described as sporadic, and in fact homosexuality was regarded as a psychological disease in Sweden until 1979. Outside the cities, and particularly in the north of the country where the lumberjack mentality rules supreme, there can still be widespread embarrassment and unease whenever the subject is mentioned in public.
There are very few gay bars and clubs in Sweden, though gay community life in general is supported by the state-sponsored Riksförbundet för Sexuellt Likaberättigande, or RFSL (National Association for Sexual Equality; Sveavägen 59, Stockholm; 08 501 62 900, rfsl.se), founded in 1950 as one of the first gay rights organizations in the world. The website qx.se has useful information about gay and lesbian happenings in Sweden, and listings of bars and discos where they do exist.
The Swedish Institute ( 08 453 7800, si.se) has a whole host of information about various work and study programmes across Sweden and sometimes organizes Swedish language courses abroad.
The Swedish post office is a thing of the past. Postal services are instead to be found in local supermarkets and filling stations; look for the blue postal sign outside (a yellow horn and crown on a blue background) which are open longer hours than the traditional post office used to be. You can buy stamps (frimärken) at most newspaper kiosks, tobacconists, hotels, bookshops and stationers’ shops, as well as at supermarkets and petrol stations. Note that Swedish addresses are always written with the number after the street name. In multi-floor buildings, the ground floor is always counted as the first floor.
Beaches Chill out on fine white-sand beaches at Sandhammaren in Skåne or Sjaustrehammaren in Gotland.
Viking history Explore Sweden’s thrilling Viking past at Birka or at the Foteviken Viking Museum at Skanör.
Wildlife Come face to face with bears, wolves and wolverines at Orsa Rovdjurspark, get up close to reindeer at Båtsuoj Sámi Center in Lapland, see endangered animals at the Norden’s Ark wildlife sanctuary on the Bohuslän coast, or check out the Kolmårdens Djurpark safari park near Norrköping.
Museums In Stockholm, don’t miss the Skansen open-air museum and the Vasamuséet’s magnificent ancient warship; in Gothenburg head for the fun, interactive Universeum science museum.
The Great Outdoors Spend a day canoeing around the Stockholm archipelago or build your own raft and float down the Klarälven River in Värmland. In winter, there’s everything from dog-sledding to snowmobiling at Lapland’s Icehotel.
Theme parks Strap yourself into some white-knuckle rides at Gröna Lunds Tivoli in Stockholm or Liseberg Amusement Park in Gothenburg, or visit Pippi Longstocking at Astrid Lindgren’s World at Vimmerby.
The most useful map of Stockholm can only be bought in the city itself: the Stockholm Map (Stockholmskartan) is available from any office of the local transport authority, Storstockholms Lokaltrafik. This map has the advantage of showing all bus and metro routes in the capital, and includes a street index. For maps of the whole country, go for Hallwag’s Sverige/Sweden (1:8,000,000). There are also regional maps produced by Kartförlaget (1:250,00 and 1:400,000), which are excellent.
If you’re staying in one area for a long time, or are hiking or walking, you’ll probably need something more detailed still, with a minimum scale of 1:400,000 – though preferably much larger for serious trekking. The Fjällkartan series produced by Lantmäteriverket, which covers the northwestern mountains at a scale of 1:100,000, is good, although unfortunately rather expensive, both in Sweden and abroad.
The Swedish currency is the krona (kr; plural kronor). It comes in coins of 1kr, 5kr and 10kr, and notes of 20kr, 50kr, 100kr, 200kr, 500kr and 1000kr. There’s no limit on the amount of Swedish and foreign currency you can take into Sweden. At the time of going to print, the exchange rate was around 11kr to £1, 8.5kr to US$1 and 9.5kr to €1.
The cheapest and easiest way of accessing money while you’re in Sweden is from ATMs with your debit card. There will be a flat transaction fee for withdrawals, which is usually quite small, but no interest payments.
Credit cards are a good backup source of funds, and can be used either in ATMs or over the counter. Mastercard, Visa, American Express and Diners Card are accepted everywhere for goods or cash.
Traveller’s cheques are a safe and simple way of carrying your money, although there can be a hefty commission when you come to change them. Some places charge per cheque, others per transaction, so it’s common sense to take large denominations with you, or to try to change as much as you feel you can handle in one go.
Banks have standard exchange rates but commissions can vary enormously. The best place to change money is at the yellow Forex offices ( forex.se), which offer more kronor for your currency though also charge commission. You’ll find Forex branches in Sweden’s main cities as well as at major airports and train stations.
Shop opening hours are generally from 10am to 6pm on weekdays and 10am to 4pm on Saturdays. In larger towns, department stores remain open until 7pm or longer on weekdays, and some are also open on Sundays between noon and 4pm. Museums and galleries operate various opening hours, but are generally closed on Mondays outside the summer months. Banks are open on weekdays from 9.30am to 3pm (until 4/5.30pm on Thursdays); in some cities, banks may stay open to 5.30pm every weekday.
Banks, offices and shops are closed on public holidays. They usually also close or have reduced opening hours on the eve of the holiday.
| New Year’s Day | January 1 |
| Epiphany | January 6 |
| Good Friday | March/April |
| Easter Sunday | March/April |
| Easter Monday | March/April |
| Labour Day | May 1 |
| Ascension Day | Fortieth day after Easter Sunday |
| Whit Sunday | Seventh Sunday after Easter |
| National Day | June 6 |
| Midsummer’s Eve | Always on a Friday |
| Midsummer’s Day | Saturday closest to the summer solstice |
| All Saints’ Day | Closest Saturday to November 1 |
| Christmas Eve | December 24 |
| Christmas Day | December 25 |
| Boxing Day | December 26 |
| New Year’s Eve | December 31 |
In the land of Ericsson, mobile phones work virtually everywhere and almost every Swede has at least one. Consequently, public payphones have all but disappeared. Mobile coverage in the south of the country is virtually a hundred percent. In the north there is good coverage along the main roads and the coast, and even the most remote village in Norrland has some kind of network coverage; with international roaming this means you can use your phone virtually wherever you happen to be.
Stockholm is undoubtedly the best place in Sweden to shop – it not only has the biggest selection of stores in the country but, thanks to competition, prices tend to be a little lower than elsewhere. Glassware is generally a good buy and Swedish glass producers are renowned for their innovation and creative designs; in Stockholm try the Åhléns and NK department stores which keep a wide range of glass products. Other items to look out for are locally produced handicrafts which can range from handwoven table runners to wrought-iron candlesticks. Most towns have a handicrafts store selling “hantverk”. For English-language books try the Akademibokhandeln chain found in major towns across the country, or, better, in Stockholm, the Swedish Institute, Slottsbacken 10, which has an unsurpassed stock of English-language books on Sweden and Sweden-related gifts and souvenirs.
To call Sweden from abroad, dial your country’s international access code followed by 46 for Sweden, then dial the area code (without its first 0) and the number.
To call abroad from Sweden, dial 00 followed by the required country code then the area code (without its first 0) and the number.
Leaving tips is not common practice in Sweden. In the big cities, however, it is usual to round up a restaurant bill to the nearest sensible denomination, ie 277kr becomes 300kr, but there is no tradition of routinely tipping by ten to fifteen percent as in some countries.
Sweden conforms to Central European Time (CET), which is always one hour ahead of Britain and Ireland. For most of the year Sweden is six hours ahead of New York, nine hours behind Sydney and eleven hours behind Auckland. Clocks go forward by one hour in late March and back one hour in late October (on the same days as in Britain and Ireland).
All towns – and some villages – have a tourist office from where you can pick up free town plans and information, brochures, timetables and other literature. Most offices have internet access. During the summer they’re open until late evening; out of season it’s more usual for them to keep shop hours, and in the winter they’re normally closed at weekends. You’ll find full details of individual offices throughout the guide. Sweden’s official website for tourism, visitsweden.com, is extremely comprehensive and worth a browse before leaving home.
Sweden is, in many ways, a model of awareness in terms of disabled travel, with assistance forthcoming from virtually all Swedes, if needed. Wheelchair access is usually available on trains (InterCity trains have wide aisles and large toilets, and often have special carriages with hydraulic lifts), and there are lifts down to the platforms at almost every Stockholm metro station. In every part of the country there’ll be some taxis in the form of minivans specially converted for disabled use.
Accommodation suitable for people with disabilities is often available: most hotels have specially adapted rooms, while some chalet villages have cabins with wheelchair access. Any building with three or more storeys must, by law, have a lift installed, while all public buildings are legally required to be accessible to people with disabilities and have automatic doors. For more information, contact De Handikappades Riksförbund, ( 0520 390 41, dhr.se).