Morels Sauteéd in Butter

This recipe is well suited to other delicate wild mushrooms, such as chanterelles, and also works nicely with soft vegetables such as diced eggplant and zucchini. Don’t be tempted by dried mushrooms that have been reconstituted; they won’t work. One key is to avoid getting too heavy a coating of flour on the mushrooms. It should be even and light. I serve these straight from the pan to people standing around my kitchen to assure they’re good and hot. You can also sprinkle them with fresh chives before serving.

Makes 4 appetizer servings

¹/₂ pound (225 g) morel mushrooms

¹/₂ cup (65 g) all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon (5 ml) coarse salt, plus more to finish

¹/₂ teaspoon (2.5 ml) ground black pepper

¹/₄ teaspoon (1.25 ml) paprika

About 5 tablespoons (80 g) unsalted butter, plus more if needed

Soak the morels in cold water for a few minutes to rinse off any impurities or critters. Drain them well and lightly dry with paper towels. If they’re large, slice them in half lengthwise.

In a large bowl, stir together the flour, salt, pepper, and paprika. Add the mushrooms and toss carefully to coat them lightly in the flour. Shake off any excess flour and set the mushrooms aside.

Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add the mushrooms. Shake the pan to prevent them from sticking to the bottom. Panfry until they are golden and slightly crispy, turning them once. Add more butter if necessary, especially if the butter becomes dark and grainy. Sprinkle a bit more salt on the cooked mushrooms. Serve warm.