Rognons d’agneau Turbigo

Kidneys Turbigo

This stew of kidneys, sausages and onions is named after the town of Turbigo in Lombardy, the site of two famous French military victories over the Austrian army in the nineteenth century.

serves 4

8 lamb’s kidneys

60 g (2 oz) butter

8 chipolata sausages

12 small pickling or pearl onions or French shallots

125 g (5 oz) button mushrooms, sliced

1 tablespoon plain (all-purpose) flour

2 tablespoons dry sherry

2 teaspoons tomato paste (concentrated purée)

250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) beef stock

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

CROUTES

oil, for brushing

2 garlic cloves, crushed

12 slices baguette, cut on an angle

Trim, halve and cut the white membrane from the kidneys with scissors. Heat half of the butter in a large frying pan. Cook the kidneys for 2 minutes, or until browned all over. Remove to a plate. Add the chipolatas to the pan and cook for 2 minutes, or until browned all over. Remove to a plate. Cut in half on the diagonal.

Lower the heat and add the remaining butter to the pan. Cook the onions and mushrooms, stirring, for 5 minutes, or until soft and golden brown.

Mix together the flour and sherry to make a paste. Add the tomato paste and stock. Mix until smooth.

Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the stock mixture, return to the heat and stir until boiling and slightly thickened. Season well. Return the kidneys and chipolatas to the frying pan. Lower the heat, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally for 25 minutes, or until the kidneys are cooked.

Meanwhile, to make the croutes, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Mix together the oil and garlic and brush over the bread slices. Place on a baking tray and bake for 3–4 minutes. Turn over and bake for a further 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Sprinkle the kidneys with parsley and serve with the croutes on one side.

Left: Cook the halved kidneys in the butter until they are browned all over.

Right: Cook the onions and mushrooms in more of the butter until they are soft and golden brown.