14 HAYDEN BUTTE PRESERVE AND TEMPE TOWN LAKE

KEY AT-A-GLANCE INFORMATION

LENGTH: 4.3 miles

ELEVATION GAIN: 350 feet

CONFIGURATION: Loop

DIFFICULTY: Easy

SCENERY: City panorama, desert, Tempe Town Lake, urban hiking

EXPOSURE: Completely exposed

TRAFFIC: Moderate to heavy

TRAIL SURFACE: Packed dirt, pavement, sidewalk, rocky trail on top of Hayden Butte

HIKING TIME: 2 hours

WATER REQUIREMENT: 2 quarts

SEASON: Year-round; hot in summer

ACCESS: Open sunrise to sunset; metered parking available near Sun Devil Stadium

MAPS: USGS Tempe

FACILITIES: No facilities at the trailhead, drinking water and restrooms available during the hike

DOGS: Yes, leashed at all times

COMMENTS: Best urban hike in Phoenix. For more information, visit www.tempe.gov/parks, or call (480) 350-5200.

GPS Trailhead Coordinates

UTM Zone 12S

Easting 0413132

Northing 3698702

Latitude N33°25.557'

Longitude W1116.105'

Directions

Exit Loop 202 at Scottsdale Road. Drive south 0.8 miles to Sixth Street. Turn west on Sixth Street and follow it 0.25 miles until it ends at Veterans Way. Turn northwest on Veterans Way and proceed 0.3 miles to the southwest entrance of Sun Devil Stadium. You can also take the Metro light rail to Sun Devil Stadium.

IN BRIEF

This scenic route showcases the best hotspots near downtown Tempe, a city known for its ties to Arizona State University. Though not entirely a hiking trail, this tour visits a mountain preserve, wanders through a lakeside park, and hits a trendy business district.

DESCRIPTION

The recently constructed Tempe Town Lake turned the drab and dry Salt River bed near downtown Tempe into a beautiful park for a multitude of recreational activities. Desert along the banks of the Salt River has been transformed into biking and jogging paths. Boat docks and ramps line the lakeshores. Lush green grassy areas replaced barren dirt lots. Shiny office and residential buildings sprang up on the shore, with more planned. The flurry of development has made the area a prime target for exploration and a perfect setting for urban hiking.

Your lakeside adventure begins at Hayden Butte Preserve Park in the shadows of Sun Devil Stadium, home of Arizona State University’s Sun Devils and, for a while, the National Football League’s Arizona Cardinals. Near the southwest entrance to the stadium and at the intersection of Veterans Way and College Avenue, find the Hayden Butte Park sign and the trailhead for the Leonard Monti Trail. Walk west along the packed-dirt trail to start your ascent to the top of Hayden Butte, formerly known as Tempe Butte or “A” Mountain because of the huge letter “A” on its southern face. Interpretive signs posted along the trail explain the history of the area and some of the desert flora and fauna you might encounter. There’s even a sign to explain the “A” sign.

Running parallel to the Metro light rail tracks, the trail soon meets an alternate access point behind the police station. Make sure you don’t park illegally in the Tempe Police parking lot. Turn uphill here until you reach the paved service road at 0.25 miles. Hike up the steep paved road to a vista point offering spectacular views overlooking the Arizona State University campus. Pass through a gap in the fence behind you to explore the top of Hayden Butte. The handrail-assisted walk up the rocks and cement stairs takes you past the giant “A” and up to the summit for an even better view. From this vantage point 300 feet above the city, you can see into Sun Devil Stadium, look down on Tempe Town Lake, watch the airplanes take off and land at Sky Harbor International Airport, or just relax and listen to the sounds of life in Tempe. At night, Hayden Butte is also a favorite among locals for watching the city lights.

Retrace your steps and head back down the service road. Follow it all the way down to the base of historic Hayden Flour Mill, the large abandoned white building at the bottom of the hill. Many landmarks in Tempe were named after Charles Trumbull Hayden, often considered the father of Tempe, which at one time was called Hayden’s Ferry. The Hayden family founded and operated the mill for three generations. The first mill was built at this location in 1874, and the version you see today was erected in 1918. Charles Hayden’s son Carl, who was born in the Monti’s building across the street, went on to serve in the U.S. House and Senate for more than 57 years. The Hayden Flour Mill ceased operations in 1997, but it remains as a defining landmark in Tempe history.

From one of the oldest buildings in town, head directly north toward one of the newest. The service road ends at a gate near the mill. Walk beyond the gate to Rio Salado Parkway, and cross the street at the crosswalk by the Mill Avenue bridges. The silver and glass buildings ahead of you are part of the Hayden Ferry Lakeside development, a complex of residential, retail, and office buildings built on the site of the original Hayden’s ferry service. With Camelback Mountain on the horizon, proceed north between the bridge and the buildings until you come to the edge of the lake.

Tempe Town Lake, like most lakes in Arizona, is artificial. However, its construction is unique because the dams that create the 2.5-mile-long lake are actually inflatable rubber bladders. With Hayden Butte and Sun Devil Stadium on your right, walk east along the southern shore of the lake through Giuliano Park. At 1.2 miles from your starting point, there is a shaded picnic area with a drinking fountain. Straight ahead in the distance, the Superstition Mountains loom on the horizon. The mountain with the yellowish stripe is Pass Mountain near Usery Park. The distinctive shape of Four Peaks can be seen to the northeast, and the giant camel of Camelback Mountain slumbers across the lake to the north.

Cement retaining walls line the banks of the lake, and on each seat in the wall, there’s an artistic ceramic tile embedded in the concrete. Six hundred such tiles display icons and prose around the lake, composing a book of tiles called "words over water" and providing an interesting diversion during your hike. At 1.8 miles, climb up to the sidewalk on Scottsdale Road and cross over to the northern side of the lake. While on the Scottsdale Road bridge, pause to admire the reflection of Hayden Butte and Sun Devil Stadium in the lake, a scene that’s especially beautiful at sunset. Make a 180-degree turn at the northern end of the bridge and descend the ramp to reach the lakeshore once more. Now walk west along the northern shore, past Papago Stables, to the marina at 2.4 miles from your starting point. There are restrooms and drinking water available here as well as a fountain called the Marina Water Muse.

Continue your westward stroll along the North Bank Linear Park. At 3 miles, pass by a tunnel under Loop 202. Notice the 545-foot glittering mosaic called “River Then, River Now, and River Future” snaking along the wall. Interpretive signs explaining various desert plants add an educational dimension to the hike. Proceed through the parking area under both Mill Avenue bridges, and then climb up to the sidewalk on the western side of the western bridge. Constructed in 1931, the western bridge is the older of the two. Cross over the lake on the western bridge to return to the south shore, completing a loop around the lake. Incidentally, this loop is wheelchair friendly.

At the intersection of Mill Avenue and Rio Salado Parkway, find the main entrance to Tempe Beach Park and Monti’s La Casa Vieja Restaurant. Tempe Beach Park received a complete makeover when the lake was constructed and is now a favorite venue for outdoor concerts and events. Built by Charles Trumbull Hayden in 1871, Monti’s has the distinction of being the longest continuously occupied building in Tempe.

Continue walking south along the western side of tree-lined Mill Avenue, the liveliest street in town. Home of many bars, restaurants, and shops, Mill Avenue is the cultural center of Tempe. Just past the Metro station and traffic light at Third Street, detour west into the amphitheater at Hayden Square, another popular spot for outdoor concerts. Pass through Hayden Square and emerge on the cul-de-sac next to the gazebo. Look for a large staircase on the western end of the building. Behind this staircase is an entrance to the best-kept secret on Mill Avenue, a charming courtyard with a gazebo and a waterfall hidden from the noisy crowds. Catch your breath here and enjoy the small boutique shops. You can exit from the courtyard to the east and emerge back onto Mill Avenue.

Proceed south again on Mill Avenue until you come to its intersection with Fifth Street. Though not as storied as San Francisco’s Haight and Ashbury, this junction is the heart of Tempe culture. Turn east onto Fifth Street to finish your urban adventure. On your way back to Sun Devil Stadium and Hayden Butte Park, note the lavish Tempe Mission Palms Resort and the inverted pyramid shape of the Tempe municipal building.

NEARBY ACTIVITIES

Mill Avenue near the campus of Arizona State University offers many restaurants, bars, shops, and other diversions. Papago Park, home of the Phoenix Zoo and Desert Botanical Garden, is 2 miles to the northwest. Fans of urban hiking can also take advantage of recreational activities along Indian Bend Wash, which the locals call the “Greenbelt”.