Port Phillip’s First Fleet
The HMS Calcutta, with her cargo of 308 convicts, and Ocean, carrying supplies and a handful of free settlers, were dispatched to form a settlement at Port Phillip in 1803. A year earlier the British bureaucrats responsible for colonies and war were brought together, allowing new thinking. The French reconnaissance of Australia’s coast had caused suspicion of a French land-grab, and it was felt that the best response was to pre-empt them, while on the way emptying a few more hulks and prisons. Timber, too, was a preoccupation of the navy, and southern Australia was widely believed to be a veritable storehouse of potential masts and beams. James Tuckey’s On a Voyage to Establish a Colony at Port Phillip is by far the most readable account of the expedition. As the Calcutta’s first lieutenant, Tuckey was in a good position to record events, and there are remarkable parallels between his and Watkin Tench’s narratives. Tuckey died in 1816, at the age of forty, while leading an expedition to explore the Congo River in Africa.
10 October—…we at last made King Island, in the entrance of Bass’s Straits, which we had anxiously looked out for the two preceding days; the wind being from the NE obliged us to stand within three miles of the island, which through the haze we observed to be moderately high and level, with three sandy hills nearly in the centre. The increasing breeze and lowering sky, which portended a coming gale, prevented our examining the island more minutely. Fortunately we stood off in time to gain a sufficient offing before the gale commenced, which during the night blew a perfect hurricane between the NW and SW.
This night of danger and anxiety, was succeeded by a morning beautifully serene, which showed us the southern coast of New South Wales. From the total want of information respecting the appearance of the land on this coast, we were doubtful as to our situation, and approached the shore with cautious diffidence; at length the break in the land, which forms the entrance of Port Phillip, was observed, but a surf, apparently breaking across it, created, at first, some mistrust of its identity, until the man at the masthead observing a ship at anchor within, which was soon recognised for the Ocean, removed all doubt, and without further hesitation we pushed in for the entrance.
A fair wind and tide soon carried us through; and in a few minutes we were presented with a picture highly contrasted with the scene we had lately contemplated: an expanse of water bounded in many places only by the horizon, and unruffled as the bosom of unpolluted innocence, presented itself to the charmed eye, which roamed over it in silent admiration. The nearer shores, along which the ship glided at the distance of a mile, afforded the most exquisite scenery, and recalled the idea of ‘Nature in the world’s first spring’. In short, every circumstance combined to impress our minds with the highest satisfaction…
The week following our arrival at Port Phillip was occupied in searching for an eligible place to fix the settlement. As it was of the first consequence that this should be of easy access to shipping, the shores near the mouth of the port were first examined. Here, to our great mortification, we observed a total want of fresh water, and found the soil so extremely light and sandy as to deny all hopes of successful cultivation. As it was, however, determined to land the people, a small bay, eight miles from the harbour’s mouth, was pitched upon for that purpose, where, by sinking casks, water of a tolerable quantity was procured, and here the camp was pitched; and on 16 October, the marines and convicts were landed, while the ships immediately began to discharge their cargoes…
The face of the country bordering on the port is beautifully picturesque, swelling into gentle elevations of the brightest verdure, and dotted with trees, as if planted by the hand of taste, while the ground is covered with a profusion of flowers of every colour; in short, the external appearance of the country flattered us into the most delusive dreams of fruitfulness and plenty…
The kangaroo is the largest animal yet discovered in New Holland; it inhabits the neighbourhood of Port Phillip in considerable numbers, weighing from fifty to 150 pounds; the native dog, the opossum, flying squirrel and field-rat make up the catalogue of animals we observed.
Aquatic birds are found in abundance on the lagoons, and are black swans, ducks, teal, black and pied shags, pelicans, gulls, red-bills (a beach bird), herons, curlows and sand-larks; the land birds are eagles, crows, ravens, quail, bronze-winged pigeons, and many beautiful varieties of the parrot tribe, particularly the black cockatoo; the emu is also a native of this part of the country, its eggs having been found here. Three varieties of snakes were observed, all of which appeared to be venomous. The species of insects are almost innumerable: among them are upwards of one hundred and fifty different kinds of beautiful moths; several kinds of beetles, the animated straw,1 &c. The swamps are inhabited by myriads of mosquitoes of an extraordinary size; but the common fly, which swarms almost beyond belief, possesses all the offensive powers of the mosquitoe, its sting creating an equal degree of pain and inflammation. Wasps are also common, but no bees were seen.
Fish, it may safely be asserted, is so scarce that it could never be depended on as a source of effectual relief in the event of scarcity. Several varieties of the ray were almost the only ones caught, with sometimes a few mullet, and other small fish; in general, a day’s work with the seine produced scarcely a good dish of fish. The number of sharks which infest the harbour may occasion this scarcity of small fish2. The rocks outside the harbour’s mouth are frequented by seals and sea-elephants. The shellfish are oysters, limpits, mussels, escalops, cockles, sea-ears; and very large crayfish are found among the rocks…
The NW side of the port, where a level plain extends to the northward as far as the horizon, appears to be by far the most populous; at this place, upwards of two hundred natives assembled round the surveying boats, and their obviously hostile intentions made the application of firearms absolutely necessary to repel them, by which one native was killed, and two or three wounded.
Previous to this time, several interviews had been held with separate parties, at different places, during which the most friendly intercourse was maintained, and endeavoured to be strengthened on our part, by presents of blankets, beads, &c. At these interviews they appeared to have a perfect knowledge of the use of firearms; and as they seemed terrified even at the sight of them, they were kept entirely out of view.
The last interview which terminated so unexpectedly hostile, had at its commencement the same friendly appearance. Three natives, unarmed, came to the boats, and received fish, bread and blankets. Feeling no apprehension from three naked and unarmed savages, the first lieutenant proceeded with one boat to continue the survey, while the other boat’s crew remained on shore to dress dinner and procure water. The moment the first boat disappeared the three natives took leave, and in less than an hour returned with forty more, headed by a chief who seemed to possess much authority.
This party immediately divided, some taking off the attention of the people who had charge of the tent (in which was Mr Harris, the surveyor of the colony), while the rest surrounded the boats, the oars, masts and sails of which were used in erecting the tent. Their intention to plunder was immediately visible, and all the exertions of the boat’s crew were insufficient to prevent their possessing themselves of a tomahawk, an axe and a saw.
In this situation, as it was impossible to get the boat away, everything belonging to her being on shore, it was thought advisable to temporise, and wait the return of the other boat, without having recourse to firearms, if it could possibly be avoided; and for this purpose, bread, meat and blankets were given them. These condescensions, however, seemed only to increase their boldness, and their numbers having been augmented by the junction of two other parties, amounted to more than two hundred.
At this critical time the other boat came in sight, and observing the crowd and tumult at the tent, pushed towards them with all possible dispatch. Upon approaching the shore, the unusual warlike appearance of the natives was immediately observed, and as they seemed to have entire possession of the tent, serious apprehensions were entertained for Mr Harris and two of the boat’s crew, who it was noticed were not at the boat.
At the moment that the grapnel was hove out of the lieutenant’s boat, to prevent her taking the ground, one of the natives seized the master’s mate, who had charge of the other boat, and held him fast in his arms. A general cry of ‘Fire, Sir; for God’s sake, fire!’ was now addressed from those on shore to the first lieutenant. Hoping the report only would sufficiently intimidate them, two muskets were fired over their heads; for a moment they seemed to pause, and a few retreated behind the trees, but immediately returned, clapping their hands, and shouting vehemently. Four muskets with buckshot, and the fowling-pieces of the gentlemen with small shot, were now fired among them, and from a general howl, very different from their former shouts, many were supposed to be struck. This discharge created a general panic, and leaving their cloaks behind, they ran in every direction among the trees. It was hoped the business would have terminated here, and orders were, therefore, given to strike the tent, and prepare to quit the territory of such disagreeable neighbours.
While thus employed, a large party were seen again assembling behind a hill, at the foot of which was our tent: they advanced in a compact body to the brow of the hill, every individual armed with a spear, and some, who appeared to be attendants of others, carrying bundles of them; when within a hundred yards of us they halted, and the chief, with one attendant, came down to the tent, and spoke with great vehemence, holding a very large war spear in a position for throwing.
The first lieutenant, wishing to restore peace if possible, laid down his gun, and advancing to the chief, presented him with several cloaks, necklaces and spears, which had been left behind on their retreat; the chief took his own cloak and necklace, and gave the others to his attendant. His countenance and gestures all this time betrayed more of anger than fear, and his spear appeared every moment upon the point of quitting his hand. When the cloaks were all given up, the body on the hill began to descend, shouting and flourishing their spears. Our people were immediately drawn up, and ordered to present their muskets loaded with ball, while last attempts were made to convince the chief that if his people continued to approach they would be immediately fired upon. These threats were either not properly understood, or were despised, and it was deemed absolutely necessary for our own safety, to prove the power of our firearms, before they came near enough to injure us with their spears; selecting one of the foremost, who appeared to be most violent, as a proper example, three muskets were fired at him at fifty yards distance, two of which took effect, and he fell dead on the spot; the chief turning round at the report saw him fall, and immediately fled among the trees; a general dispersion succeeded, and the dead body was left behind.
Among these savages, gradations of rank could be distinctly traced, founded most probably upon personal qualities and external appearance. In these respects the chief far excelled the rest; his figure was masculine and well-proportioned, and his air bold and commanding. When first he was seen approaching the boat, he was raised upon the shoulders of two men, and surrounded by the whole party, shouting and clapping their hands. Besides his cloak, which was only distinguished by its superior size, he wore a necklace of reeds, and several strings of human hair over his breast. His head was adorned with a coronet of the wing-feathers of the swan, very neatly arranged, and which had a pleasing effect. The faces of several were painted with red, white and yellow clays, and others had a reed or bone ran through the septum of the nose, perhaps increasing in length according to rank, for the chief’s was by far the longest, and must have measured at least two feet. Ornamental scars on the shoulders were general and the face of one was deeply pitted as if from the smallpox, though that disease is not known to exist in New Holland.3 A very great difference was observed in the comparative cleanliness of these savages; some of them were so abominably beastly that it required the strongest stomach to look on them without nausea, while others were sufficiently cleanly to be viewed without disgust. The beards, which are remarkably bushy in the former, were allowed to grow, while in the latter they were cut close, apparently by a sharp instrument, probably a shell.
The only covering they make use of, to preserve their persons from the winter’s cold, is a square of opossum skins, neatly sewn together, and thrown loosely over their shoulders; the fleshy side, which is worn inwards, is marked with parallel lines, forming squares, lozenges, &c and sometimes with uncouth human figures in the attitudes of dancing.
1. Stick insect.
2. Fish were later found to abound in the bay.
3. Smallpox had in fact appeared in Sydney in 1791.