MADE DISHES.
SECT. I.
BUTCHER’S MEAT.
Bombarded Veal.
TAKE a fillet of veal, and having clean cut out the bone, make a forcemeat thus: take the crumb of a penny loaf, half a pound of fat bacon scraped, an anchovy, two or three sprigs of sweet marjorum, a little lemon-peel, thyme, and parsley. Chop these well together, and season them to your taste with salt, chyan pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix up all together with an egg and a little cream; and with this forcemeat fill up the place from whence the bone was taken. Then make cuts all round the fillet at about an inch distance from each other. Fill one nich with forcemeat, a second with spinach that has been well boiled and squeezed, and a third with crumbs of bread, chopped oysters, and beef marrow, and thus fill up the holes round the fillet; wrap the caul close round it, and put it into a deep pot, with a pint of water. Make a coarse paste to lay over it, in order to prevent the oven giving it a disagreeable taste. When it is taken out of the oven, skim off the fat, and put the gravy into a stew-pan, with a spoonful of mushroom catsup, another of lemon-pickle, five boiled artichoke bottoms cut into quarters, two spoonsful of browning, and half an ounce of morels and truffles. Thicken it with butter rolled in flour, give it a gentle boil, put your veal into the dish, and pour your sauce over it.
Fricandeau of Veal.
TAKE the thick part of the leg of veal, shape it nicely oval, lard it well, and put it into boiling water. Let it boil up once, then take it out, and put into your stew-pan some slices of veal, roots, sweet herbs, with salt, pepper, and mace. Put in half a pint of gravy, then put in your fricandeau, covering it with some pepper and butter. Let it go gently on for three hours, then take it out and glaze it. You may serve it with sorrel sauce, which is almost always used, or glazed onions, or endive sauce. If the larded fricandeau lies a few hours in water, it will be a great deal the whiter.
Veal Olives.
CUT some large collops off a fillet of veal, and hack them well with the back of a knife. Spread very thinly forcemeat over each, then roll them up, and either toast or bake them. Make a ragoo of oysters or sweetbreads cut in square bits, a few mushrooms and morels, and lay them in the dish with rolls of veal. Put nice brown gravy into the dish, and send them up hot, with forcemeat balls round them. Garnish with lemon.
Grenadines of Veal.
THESE are done the same as the fricandeau, excepting that the veal is cut into slices. Three pieces make a dish; and they are served with the same sauces.
Veal Cutlets en Papilotes.
CUT them thin, and put them in square pieces of white paper, with salt, pepper, parsley, shalots, mushrooms, all shred fine, with butter; twist the paper round the cutlets; letting the end remain uncovered; rub the outside of the paper with butter; lay the cutlets upon the gridiron over a slow fire, with a sheet of buttered paper under them. Serve them in the papers.
Porcupine of a Breast of Veal.
TAKE a fine large breast of veal, bone it, and rub it over with the yolks of two eggs. Spread it on a table, and lay over it a little bacon cut as thin as possible, a handful of parsley shred fine, the yolks of five hard boiled eggs chopped small, a little lemon-peel cut fine, the crumb of a penny loaf steeped in cream, and season to your taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roll the breast of veal close, and skewer it up. Then cut some fat bacon, the lean of ham that has been a little boiled, and pickled cucumbers, about two inches long. Lard the veal with this in rows, first ham, then bacon, and then cucumbers, till you have larded every part of it. Put it into a deep earthen pot, with a pint of water, cover it close, and set it in a slow oven for two hours. When it comes from the oven, skim off the fat, and strain the gravy through a sieve into a stew-pan. Put into it a glass of white wine, a little lemon-pickle and caper liquor, and a spoonful of mushroom catsup. Thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour, lay your porcupine on the dish, and pour your sauce over it. Have ready a roll of forcemeat made thus: take the crumb of a penny loaf, half a pound of beef suet shred fine, the yolks of four eggs, and a few chopped oysters. Mix these well together, and season it to your taste with chyan pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Spread it on a veal caul, and having rolled it up close like a collared eel, bind it in a cloth, and boil it an hour. This done, cut it into four slices, lay one at each end and the others on the sides. Have ready your sweet-bread cut in slices and fried, and lay them round it with a few mushrooms. This makes a grand bottom dish at that time of the year when game is not to be had.
Fricandeau of Veal a-la-Bourgeois.
CUT some lean veal into thin slices, lard them with streaked bacon, and season them with pepper, salt, beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. Put in the bottom of your stew-pan some slices of fat bacon, lay the veal upon them, cover the pan, and set it over the fire for eight or ten minutes, just to be hot and no more. Then with a brisk fire, brown your veal on both sides, and shake some flour over it. Pour in a quart of good broth or gravy, cover it close, and let it stew gently till it is enough. Then take out the slices of bacon, skim all the fat off clean, and beat up the yolks of three eggs, with some of the gravy. Mix all together, and keep it stirring one way till it is smooth and thick. Then take it up, lay your meat in the dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with lemon.
Calf’s Head Surprise.
WHEN you have properly cleansed it for dressing, scrape a pound of fat bacon very fine, take the crumbs of two penny loaves, a small nutmeg grated, and season it to your taste with salt, chyan pepper, and a little lemon-peel. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, and mix all together into a rich forcemeat. Put a little of it into the ears, and the rest into the head. Then put it into a deep pot, just wide enough to admit it, and put to it two quarts of water, half a pint of white wine, a blade or two of mace, a bundle of sweet herbs, an anchovy, two spoonsful of walnut and mushroom catsup, the same quantity of lemon-pickle, and a little salt and chyan pepper. Lay a coarse paste over it to keep in the steam, and put it for two hours and a half into a very quick oven. When you take it out, lay your head in a soup-dish, skim off the fat from the gravy, and strain it through a hair sieve into a stewpan. Thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour, and when it has boiled a few minutes, put in the yolks of six eggs well beaten, and mixed with half a pint of cream. Have ready boiled a few forcemeat balls, and half an ounce of truffles and morels, but do not stew them in the gravy. Pour the gravy over the head, and garnish with truffles and morels, forcemeat balls, barberries, and mushrooms. This makes an elegant top dish, and is not very expensive.
A Calf’s Pluck.
ROAST the heart stuffed with suet, sweet herbs, and a little parsley, all chopped small, a few crumbs of bread, some pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little lemon-peel, all mixed up with the yolk of an egg. Boil the lights with part of the liver, and when they are enough chop them very small, and put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some pepper and salt, and a little juice of lemon. Fry the other part of the liver with some thin slices of bacon. Lay the mince at the bottom of the dish, the heart in the middle, and the fried liver and bacon round, with some crisped parsley. Serve them up with plain melted butter in a sauce-boat.
Loin of Veal en Epigram.
ROAST a loin of veal properly for eating, then take it up, and carefully cut off the skin from the back part without breaking it. Cut out the lean part, but leave the ends whole, to contain the following mincemeat: mince all the veal very fine with the kidney part, put it into a little gravy, enough to moisten it with the gravy that comes from the loin. Put in a little pepper and salt, some lemon-peel shred fine, the yolks of three eggs, and a spoonful of catsup. Thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour. Give it a shake or two over the fire, put it into the loin, and pull the skin gently over it. If the skin should not quite cover it, give the part wanting a brown with a hot iron, or put it into an oven for about a quarter of an hour. Send it up hot, and garnish with lemon and barberries.
Pillow of Veal.
HALF roast a neck or breast of veal, then cut it into six pieces, and season it with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Take a pound of rice, and put it to a quart of broth, some mace, and a little salt. Stew it over a stove on a very slow fire till it is thick; but butter the bottom of the pan you do it in. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, and stir them into it. Then take a little round deep dish, butter it, and lay some of the rice at the bottom. Then lay the veal in a round heap, and cover it over all with rice. Rub it over with the yolks of eggs, and bake it an hour and a half. Then open the top, and pour in a pint of good rich gravy. Send it hot to table, and garnish with a Seville orange cut in quarters.
Shoulder of Veal a-la-Piedmontoise.
CUT the skin of a shoulder of veal, so that it may hang at one end; then lard the meat with bacon or ham, and season it with pepper, salt, mace, sweet herbs, parsley, and lemon-peel. Cover it again with the skin, stew it with gravy, and when it is tender take it up. Then take sorrel, some lettuce chopped small, and stew them in some butter with parsley, onions, and mushrooms. When the herbs are tender, put to them some of the liquor, some sweet-breads and bits of ham. Let all stew together a short time; then lift up the skin, lay the stewed herbs over and under, cover it again with the skin, moisten it with melted butter, strew over it crumbs of bread, and send it to the oven to brown. Serve it up hot with some good gravy in the dish.
Sweetbreads of Veal a-la-Dauphine.
TAKE three of the largest sweetbreads you can get, and open them in such a manner that you can stuff in forcemeat. Make your forcemeat with a large fowl: skin it, and pick off all the flesh. Then take half a pound of fat and lean bacon, cut it very fine, and beat them in a mortar. Season it with an anchovy, some nutmeg, a little lemon-peel, a very little thyme, and some parsley. Mix these up with the yolks of two eggs, fill your sweetbreads with it, and fasten them together with fine wooden skewers. Put layers of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, and season them with pepper, salt, mace, cloves, sweet herbs, and a large onion sliced. Lay upon these thin slices of veal, and then your sweetbreads. Cover it close, let it stand eight or ten minutes over a slow fire, and then pour in a quart of boiling water or broth, and let it stew gently for two hours. Then take out the sweetbreads, keep them hot, strain the gravy, skim all the fat off, and boil it up till it is reduced to about half a pint. Then put in the sweetbreads, and let them stew two or three minutes in the gravy. Lay them in a dish, and pour the gravy over them. Garnish with lemon.
Sweetbreads en Gordineere.
PARBOIL three sweetbreads: then take a stew-pan, and put into it layers of bacon, or ham and veal; over which lay the sweetbreads, with the upper sides downwards. Put in a layer of veal and bacon over them, a pint of veal broth, and three or four blades of mace. Stew them gently three quarters of an hour; then take out the sweetbreads, strain the gravy through a sieve, and skim off the fat. Make an amulet of yolks of eggs, in the following manner: beat up four yolks of eggs, put two on a plate, and set them over a stew-pan of boiling water, with another plate over it, and it will be soon done. Put a little spinach juice into the other half, and serve it the same. Cut it out in sprigs of what form you please, put it over the sweetbreads in the dish, and keep them as hot as you can. Thicken the gravy with butter rolled in flour and two yolks of eggs beat up in a gill of cream. Put it over the fire, and keep stirring it one way till it is thick and smooth. Pour it over the sweetbreads, and send it to table. Garnish with lemon and beet-root.
Sweetbreads a-la-daub.
TAKE three of the largest and finest sweetbreads you can get, and put them for five minutes into a saucepan of boiling water. Then take them out, and when they are cold, lard them with small pieces of bacon. Put them into a stew-pan with some good veal gravy, a little lemon-juice, and a spoonful of browning. Stew them gently a quarter of an hour, and a little before they are ready thicken with flour and butter. Dish them up, and pour the gravy over them. Lay round them bunches of boiled celery, or oyster patties; and garnish with barberries or parsley.
Scotch Collops.
CUT your collops off the thick part of a leg of veal, about the size and thickness of a crown piece, and put a piece of butter browned into your frying-pan, then lay in your collops, and fry them over a quick fire. Shake and turn them, and keep them on a fine froth. When they are of a nice light brown take them out, put them into a pot, and set them before the fire to keep warm. Then put cold butter again into your pan, and fry the collops as before. When they are done, and properly brown, your the liquor from them into a stew-pan, and add to it half a pint of gravy, half a lemon, an anchovy, half an ounce of morels, a large spoonful of browning, the same of catsup, two spoonsful of lemon-pickle, and season it to your taste with salt and chyan pepper. Thicken it with butter and flour, let it boil five or six minutes, and then put in your collops, and shake them over the fire, but be careful not to let them boil. When they have simmered a little, take them out, and lay them in the dish. Then strain your gravy, and pour it hot on them. Lay on them forcemeat balls, and little slices of bacon curled round a skewer and boiled. Throw a few mushrooms over them, and garnish with barberries and lemon.
Beef Collops.
TAKE a large rump stake, or any piece of beef that is tender, and cut it into pieces in the form of Scotch collops, but larger. Hack them a little with a knife, then flour them, and having melted a little butter in your stew-pan, put in your collops, and fry them quick for about two minutes. Then put in a pint of gravy, a bit of butter rolled in flour, and season it with pepper and salt. Cut four pickled cucumbers into thin slices, a few capers, half a walnut, and a little onion shred fine. Put these into the pan, and having stewed the whole together about five minutes, put them all hot into your dish, and send them to table. Garnish with lemon.
Beef a-la-daub.
TAKE a rump of beef, and cut out the bone, or a part of the leg of mutton piece, or what is usually called the mouse-buttock, and cut some fat bacon into slices as long as the beef is thick, and about a quarter of an inch square. Take four blades of mace, double that number of cloves, a little allspice, and half a nutmeg grated fine. Chop a good handful of parsley, and some sweet-herbs of all sorts very fine, and season with salt and pepper. Roll the bacon in these, and then take a large larding-pin, and with it thrust the bacon through the beef. Having done this, put it into a stew-pan, with a quantity of brown gravy sufficient to cover it. Chop three blades of garlic very fine, and put in some fresh mushrooms, two large onions, and a carrot. Stew it gently for six hours, then take it out, strain off the gravy, and skim off all the fat. Put your meat and gravy into the pan again, and add to it a gill of white wine; and if you find it not sufficiently seasoned, add a little more pepper and salt. Stew it gently for half an hour more, and then add some artichoke bottoms, morels and truffles, some oysters, and a spoonful of vinegar. Then put the meat into a soup dish, and pour the sauce over it.
Beef Tremblent.
TAKE a brisket of beef, and tie up the fat end quite tight. Put it into a pot of water, and let it boil gently for six hours. Season the water with a little salt, a handful of allspice, two onions, two turnips, and a carrot. In the mean time, put a piece of butter into a stew-pan, and melt it, then put in two spoonsful of flour, and stir it till it is smooth. Put in a quart of gravy, a spoonful of catsup, the same of browning, a gill of white wine, and some turnips and carrots cut into small pieces. Stew them gently till the roots are tender, and season with pepper and salt. Skim the fat clean off, put the beef in the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Garnish with any kind of pickles.
Beef Kidneys a-la-Bourgeoise.
CUT them in thin slices, and set them over the fire, with a bit of butter, salt, pepper parsley, onions, and a small clove of garlic; the whole shred small: when done, take them off the fire, but do not let them lie long, as they will become tough. Add a few drops of vinegar and a little cullis. Beef kidneys may also be served a-la-braise, with sauce piquante.
Beef a-la-mode.
THE most proper parts for this purpose are a small buttock, a leg of mutton piece, a clod or part of a large buttock. Being furnished with your meat, take two dozen of cloves, as much mace, and half an ounce of allspice beat fine, chop a large handful of parsley, and all sorts of sweet herbs fine; cut some fat bacon as long as the beef is thick, and about a quarter of an inch square, and put it into the spice, &c. and into the beef the same. Then put the beef into a pot, and cover it with water. Chop four large onions very fine, and six cloves of garlic, six bay leaves, and a handful of champignons, or fresh mushrooms, put all into the pot, with a pint of porter or ale, and half a pint of red wine; put in some pepper and salt, some chyan pepper, a spoonful of vinegar, strew three handfuls of bread raspings, sifted fine, all over; cover the pot close, and stew it for six hours, or according to the size of the piece; if a large piece, eight hours. Then take the beef out, put it into a deep dish, and keep it hot over some boiling water; strain the gravy through a sieve, and pick out the champignons or mushrooms; skim all the fat off clean, put it into your pot again, and give it a boil up; if not seasoned enough, season it to your liking; then put the gravy into your beef, and send it hot to table. If you like it best cold, cut it in slices with the gravy over it, which will be a strong jelly.
Beef a-la-Royal.
TAKE all the bones out of a brisket of beef, and make holes in it about an inch from each other. Fill one hole with fat bacon, a second with chopped parsley, and a third with chopped oysters. Season these stuffings with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. When the beef is completely stuffed, put it into a pan, pour upon it a pint of wine boiling hot, dredge it well with flour, and send it to the oven. Let it remain there three hours, and when it is taken out, skim off all the fat, put the meat into your dish, and strain the gravy over it. Garnish with pickles.
Beef Olives.
CUT some steaks from a rump of beef about half an inch thick, as square as you can, and about ten inches long; then cut a piece of fat bacon as wide as the beef, and about three parts as long. Put part of the yolk of an egg on the bacon. Lay some good savory forcemeat, on that some of the yolk of an egg on the forcemeat, and then roll them up, and tie them round with a string in two places. Strew on some crumbs of bread, and over them some of the yolk of an egg. Then fry them brown in a large pan, with some beef dripping, and when they are done take them out, and lay them to drain. Melt some butter in a stew-pan, put in a spoonful of flour, and stir it well till it is smooth.—Then put in a pint of good gravy, with a gill of white wine, and then the olives, and let them stew an hour. Add some mushrooms, truffles, and morels, forcemeat balls, sweet-breads cut in small pieces, and some oxpalates. Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and season it with pepper and salt. Shake them up, and having carefully skimmed off the fat, lay your olives in the dish, and pour the gravy over them. Garnish with lemon and beet root.
Bouille Beef.
PUT the thick end of a brisket of beef into a kettle and cover it with water. Let it boil fast for two hours, then stew it close by the fire side for six hours more, and fill up the kettle as the water decreases. Put in with the beef some turnips cut in little balls, some carrots, and some celery. About an hour before the meat is done, take out as much broth as will fill your soup dish, and boil in it for an hour, turnips and carrots cut in little round or square pieces, with some celery, and season it to your taste with salt and pepper. Serve it up in two dishes, the beef in one dish, and the soup in another. You may put pieces of fried bread in your soup, and boil in a few knots of greens; and when you would have your soup very rich add a pound or two of mutton chops to your broth when you take it from the beef, and let them stew in it for half an hour; but remember to take out the mutton before you serve the soup up.
Sirloin of Beef en Epigram.
ROAST a sirloin of beef, and when it is done, take it off the spit, carefully raise the skin, and draw it off. Then cut out the lean part of the beef, but observe not to touch either the ends or sides. Hash the meat in the following manner: cut it into pieces about the size of a crown piece, put half a pint of gravy into a stew-pan, an onion chopped fine, two spoonsful of catsup, some pepper and salt, six small pickled cucumbers cut in thin slices, and the gravy that comes from the beef, with a little butter rolled in flour. Put in the meat, and shake it up for five minutes. Then put it on the sirloins, draw the skin carefully over, and send it to table. Garnish with lemon and pickles.
The Inside of a Sirloin of Beef forced.
LIFT up the fat of the inside, cut out the meat quite close to the bone, and chop it small. Take a pound of suet, and chop that small; then put to them some crumbs of bread, a little lemon-peel, thyme, pepper and salt, half a nutmeg grated, and two shalots chopped fine. Mix all together with a glass of red wine, and then put the meat into the place you took it from; cover it with the skin and fat, skewer it down with fine skewers, and cover it with paper. The paper must not be taken off till the meat is put on the dish, and your meat must be spitted before you take out the inside. Just before the meat is done, take a quarter of a pint of red wine, and two shalots shred small; boil them, and pour it into the dish, with the gravy that comes from the meat. Send it hot to table, and garnish with lemon.
The inside of a rump of beef forced must be done nearly in the same manner, only lift up the outside skin, take the middle of the meat, and proceed as before directed. Put it into the same place, and skewer it down close.
A Round of Beef forced.
RUB your meat first with common salt, then a little bay-salt, some salt petre, and coarse sugar. Let it lay a full week in this pickle, turning it every day. On the day it is to be dressed, wash and dry it, lard it a little, and make holes, which fill with bread crumbs, marrow, or suet, parsley, grated lemon-peel, sweet herbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg, made into stuffing. Bake it with a little water and some small beer, whole pepper, and an onion. When it comes from the oven, skim the fat clean off, put the meat into your dish, and pour the liquor over it. Instead of baking, you may boil it, but it must be done gradually over a slow fire. When cold, it makes a handsome side-board dish for a large company.
Beef Steaks rolled.
TAKE some beef steaks, and beat them with a cleaver till they are tender; make some forcemeat with a pound of veal beat fine in a mortar, the flesh of a fowl, half a pound of cold ham, or gammon of bacon, fat and lean; the kidney fat of a loin of veal, and a sweetbread, all cut very fine; some truffles and morels stewed, and then cut small two shalots, some parsley, and a little thyme, some lemon-peel, the yolks of four eggs, a nutmeg grated, and half a pint of cream. Mix all these together, and stir them over a slow fire for ten minutes. Put them upon the steaks, and roll them up; then skewer them tight, put them into the frying-pan, and fry them of a nice brown. Then take them from the fat, and put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of good drawn gravy, a spoonful of red wine, two of catsup, a few pickled mushrooms, and let them stew for a quarter of an hour. Take up the steaks, cut them into two, and lay the cut side uppermost. Garnish with lemon.
Beef Ramp en Matelotte.
TAKE your beef rump and cut it in pieces; parboil them, and then boil them in some broth without any seasoning; when about half done, stir in a little butter with a spoonful of flour over the fire till brown, and moisten it with the broth of your rumps; then put your rumps in with a dozen of large parboiled onions, a glass of white wine, a bunch of parsley, a laurel leaf, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and pepper and salt. Let them stew till the rump and onions are done; then skim it well, and put an anchovy cut small and some capers cut into the sauce. Put the rump in the middle of the dish with the onions round it. A beef rump will take four hours doing.
Beef Escarlot.
THE proper piece of beef for this purpose is the brisket, which you must manage as follows: take half a pound of coarse sugar, two ounces of bay salt, and a pound of common salt. Mix these well together, rub the beef with it, put it into an earthen pan, and turn it every day. It may lie in this pickle a fortnight, then boil it, and serve it up with savoys; but it eats much better when cold, and cut into slices.
Tongue and Udder forced.
FIRST parboil them, then blanch the tongue, and stick it with cloves; then fill the udder with forcemeat made with veal. First wash the inside with the yolk of an egg, then put in the forcemeat, tie the ends close, and spit them, roast them, and baste them with butter. When they are done, put good gravy into the dish, sweet sauce into a cup, and serve them up.
Tripe a-la-Kilkenny.
TAKE a piece of double tripe, and cut it into square pieces; peel and wash ten large onions, cut each into two, and put them on to boil in water till they are tender. Then put in your tripe, and boil it ten minutes. Pour off almost all the liquor, shake a little flour into it, and put in some butter, with a little salt and mustard. Shake all over the fire till the butter is melted, then put it into your dish, and send it to table as hot as possible. Garnish with lemon or barberries. This dish is greatly admired in Ireland.
Harrico of Mutton.
CUT the best end of a neck of mutton into chops, in single ribs, flatten them, and fry them of a light brown. Then put them into a large saucepan, with two quarts of water, and a large carrot cut in slices; and when they have stewed a quarter of an hour, put in two turnips cut in square pieces, the white part of a head of celery, two cabbage lettuces fried, a few heads of asparagus, and season all with a little chyan pepper. Boil all together till tender, and put it into a tureen or soup-dish, without any thickening to the gravy.
Shoulder of Mutton surprised.
HALF boil a shoulder of mutton, and then put it into a stew-pan with two quarts of veal gravy, four ounces of rice, a little beaten mace, and a tea spoonful of mushroom powder. Stew it an hour, or till the rice is enough, and then take up your mutton and keep it hot. Put to the rice half a pint of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in flour; then shake it well, and boil it a few minutes. Lay your mutton on the dish, and pour your gravy over it. Garnish with pickles or barberries.
To dress the Umbles of Deer.
TAKE the kidney of a deer, with the fat of the heart; season them with a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg. First fry, and then stew them in some good gravy till they are tender. Squeeze in a little lemon; take the skirts, and stuff them with the forcemeat made with the fat of the venison, some fat of bacon, grated bread, pepper, mace, sage, and onion chopped very small. Mix it with the yolk of an egg. When the skirts are stuffed with this, tie them to the spit to roast; but first strew over them some thyme and lemon-peel. When they are done, lay the skirts in the middle of the dish, and then fricasee round it.
Mutton Kebobbed.
CUT a loin of mutton into four pieces, then take off the skin, rub them with the yolk of an egg, and strew over them a few crumbs of bread and a little parsley, shred fine. Spit and roast them, and keep basting them all the time with fresh butter, in order to make the froth rise. When they are properly done, put a little brown gravy under them, and send them to table. Garnish with pickles.
Leg of Mutton a-la-haut Gout.
TAKE a fine leg of mutton that has hung a fortnight, (if the weather will permit,) and stuff every part of it with some cloves of garlic, rub it with pepper and salt, and then roast it. When it is properly done, send it up with some good gravy and red wine in the dish.
Leg of Mutton roasted with Oysters.
TAKE a fine leg of mutton that has hung two or three days, stuff every part of it with oysters, roast it, and when done, pour some good gravy into the dish, and garnish with horse-radish. If you prefer cockles you must proceed in the same manner.
Shoulder of Mutton en Epigram.
ROAST a shoulder of mutton till it is nearly enough, then carefully take off the skin about the thickness of a crown-piece, and also the shank-bone at the end. Season both the skin and shank-bone with pepper, salt, a little lemon-peel cut small, and a few sweet herbs and crumbs of bread: lay this on the gridiron till it is of a fine brown; and, in the meantime, take the rest of the meat, and cut it like a hash in pieces, about the bigness of a shilling. Save the gravy, and put to it, with a few spoonsful of strong gravy, a little nutmeg, half an onion cut fine, a small bundle of herbs, a little pepper and salt, some girkins cut very small, a few mushrooms, two or three truffles cut small, two spoonsful of wine, and a little flour dredged into it. Let all these stew together very slowly for five or six minutes, but be careful it does not boil. Take out the sweet herbs, lay the hash in the dish, and the broiled upon it. Garnish with pickles.
Sheep’s Rumps and Kidneys.
BOIL six sheep’s rumps in veal gravy; then lard your kidneys with bacon, and set them before the fire in a tin oven; as soon as the rumps become tender, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, a little grated nutmeg, and some chyan pepper. Skim the fat from the gravy, and put the gravy in a stew-pan, with three ounces of boiled rice, a spoonful of good cream, and a little catsup and mushroom powder. Thicken it with flour and butter, and give it a gentle boil. Fry your rumps till they are of a light brown; and when you dish them up, lay them round on the rice, so that the ends may meet in the middle; lay a kidney between every romp, and garnish with barberries and red cabbage. This makes a pretty side or corner dish.
Mutton-Rumps a-la-Braise.
BOIL six mutton rumps for fifteen minutes in water, then take them out, and cut them into two, and put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of good gravy, a gill of white wine, an onion stuck with cloves, and a little salt and chyan pepper. Cover them close, and stew them till they are tender. Take them and the onion out, and thicken the gravy with a little butter rolled in flour, a spoonful of browning, and the juice of half a lemon. Boil it up till it is smooth, but not too thick. Then put in your rumps, give them a shake or two, and dish them up hot. Garnish with horseradish and beet-root. For variety, you may leave the rumps whole, and lard six kidneys on one side, and do them the same as the rumps, only not boil them, and put the rumps in the middle of the dish, and kidneys round them, with the sauce over all.
Mutton Chops in Disguise.
RUB the chops over with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little parsley. Roll each in half a sheet of white paper, well buttered within-side, and close the two ends. Boil some hog’s lard, or beef dripping, in a stew-pan, and put the steaks into it. Fry them of a fine brown, then take them out, and let the fat thoroughly drain from them. Lay them in your dish, and serve them up with good gravy in a sauce-boat. Garnish with horse-radish and fried parsley.
A Shoulder of Mutton called Hen and Chickens.
HALF roast a shoulder, then take it up, and cut off the blade at the first joint, and both the flaps, to make the blade round; score the blade round in diamonds, throw a little pepper and salt over it, and set it in a tin oven to broil. Cut the flaps and meat off the shank in thin slices, and put the gravy that came out of the mutton into a stew-pan, with a little good gravy, two spoonsful of walnut catsup, one of browning, a little chyan pepper, and one or two shalots. When your meat is tender, thicken it with flour and butter, put it into the dish with the gravy, and lay the blade on the top. Garnish with green pickles.
A Quarter of Lamb forced.
TAKE a large leg of lamb, cut a long slit on the back side, and take out the meat; but be careful you do not deface the other side. Then chop the meat small with marrow, half a pound of beef suet, some oysters, an anchovy washed, an onion, some sweet herbs, a little lemon-peel, and some beaten mace and nutmeg. Beat all these together in a mortar, stuff up the leg in the shape it was before, sew it up, and rub it all over with the yolks of eggs beaten; spit it, flour it all over, lay it to the fire, and baste it with butter. An hour will roast it. In the meantime, cut the loin into steaks, season them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, lemon-peel cut line, and a few herbs. Fry them in fresh butter of a fine brown, then pour out all the butter, put in a quarter of a pint of white wine, shake it about, and then add half a pint of strong gravy, wherein good spice has been boiled, a quarter of a pint of oysters and the liquor, some mushrooms, and a spoonful of the pickle, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and the yolk of an egg beat fine; stir all these together till thick, then lay your leg of lamb in the dish, and the loin round it. Pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon.
Lamb’s Bits.
SKIN the stones, and split them; then lay them on a dry cloth with the sweetbreads and the liver, and dredge them well with flour. Fry them in lard or butter till they are of a light brown, and then lay them in a sieve to drain. Fry a good quantity of parsley, lay your bits on the dish, the parsley in lumps over them, and pour round them melted butter.
Lamb a-la-Bechamel.
LA Bechamel is nothing more than to reduce any thing to the consistence of cream, till it is thick enough to make a sauce. When it begins to thicken, put in the meat cut in slices, warm it without boiling, season it to your taste, and serve it up. All slices a-la-bechamel are done in the same manner.
Lamb Chops en Casarole.
HAVING cut a loin of lamb into chops, put yolks of eggs on both sides, and strew bread crumbs over them, with a few cloves and mace, pepper and salt mixed; fry them of a nice light brown, and put them round in a dish, as close as you can; leave a hole in the middle to put the following sauce in: all sorts of sweet herbs and parsley chopped fine, and stewed a little in some good thick gravy. Garnish with fried parsley.
Barbacued Pig.
PREPARE a pig, about ten weeks old, as for roasting. Make a forcemeat of two anchovies, six sage leaves, and the liver of the pig, all chopped very small; then put them into a mortar with the crumb of half a penny loaf, four ounces of butter, half a tea-spoonful of chyan pepper, and half a pint of red wine. Beat them all together to a paste, put it into the pig’s belly, and sew it up. Lay your pig down at a good distance before a large brisk fire, singe it well, put into your dripping-pan three bottles of red wine, and baste it well with this all the time it is roasting. When it is half done, put under the pig two penny loaves, and if you find your wine too much reduced, add more. When your pig is near enough, take the loaves and sauce out of your dripping-pan, and put to the sauce one anchovy chopped small, a bundle of sweet herbs, and half a lemon. Boil it a few minutes, then draw your pig, put a small lemon or apple in the pig’s mouth, and a leaf on each side. Strain your sauce, and pour it on boiling hot. Send it up whole to table, and garnish with barberries and sliced lemon.
A Pig au Pere Duillet.
CUT off the head, and divide the body into quarters, lard them with bacon, and season them well with salt, pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and mace. Put a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a kettle, lay the head in the middle, and the quarters round it. Then put in a bay-leaf, an onion shred, a lemon, with some carrots, parsley, and the liver, and cover it again with bacon. Put in a quart of broth, stew it for an hour, and then take it up. Put your pig into a stew-pan, pour in a bottle of white wine, cover it close, and let it stew very gently an hour. In the meantime, while it is stewing in the wine, take the first gravy it was stewed in, skim off the fat, and strain it. Then take a sweetbread cut into five or six slices, some truffles, morels, and mushrooms, and stew all together till they are enough. Thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, or a piece of butter rolled in flour; and when your pig is enough, take it out, and lay it in your dish. Put the wine it was stewed in to the sauce, then pour it all over the pig, and garnish with lemon. If it is to be served up cold, let it stand till it is so, then drain it well, and wipe it, that it may look white, and lay it in a dish, with the head in the middle, and the quarters round it. Throw some green parsley over all. Either of the quarters separately make a pretty dish.
A Pig Matelote.
HAVING taken out the entrails, and scalded your pig, cut off the head and pettitoes; then cut the body into four quarters, and put them, with the head and toes, into cold water. Cover the bottom of a stew-pan with slices of bacon, and place the quarters over them, with the pettitoes, and the head cut in two. Season the whole with pepper and salt, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, an onion, and add a bottle of white wine. Then lay on more slices of bacon, put over it a quart of water, and let it boil. Skin and gut two large eels, and cut them in pieces about five or six inches long. When your pig is half done, put in your eels; then boil a dozen of large craw-fish, cut off the claws, and take off the shells of the tails. When your pig and eels are enough, lay your pig in the dish, and your pettitoes round it; but do not put in the head, as that wall make a pretty cold dish. Then lay your eels and craw-fish over them, and take the liquor they were stewed in, skim off the fat, and add to it half a pint of strong gravy, thickened with a little piece of burnt butter. Pour this over it, and garnish with lemon and craw-fish. Fry the brains, and lay them round, and all over the dish. At grand entertainments this will do for a first course or remove.
Sheep’s Trotters en Gratten.
BOIL them in water, and then put them into a stew-pan with a glass of white wine, half a pint of broth, as much cullis, a bunch of sweet herbs, with salt, whole pepper, and mace. Stew them by a slow fire till the sauce is reduced, then take out the herbs, and serve them upon a gratten. Sheep’s trotters may be served with a ragoo of cucumbers.
SECT. II.
MADE DISHES OF POULTRY, &c.
Turkey a-la-daub.
BONE your turkey, but let it be so carefully done, as not to spoil the look of it, and then stuff it with the following forcemeat: chop some oysters very fine, and mix them with some crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, shalots, and very little thyme, parsley, and butter. Having filled your turkey with this, sew it up, tie it in a cloth, and boil it white, but be careful not to boil it too much. Serve it up with good oyster sauce. Or you may make a rich gravy of the bones, with a piece of veal, mutton, and bacon; season with salt, pepper, shalots, and a little mace. Strain it off through a sieve; and having before half-boiled your turkey, stew it in this gravy just half an hour. Having well skimmed the gravy, dish up your turkey in it, after you have thickened it with a few mushrooms stewed white, or stewed palates, forcemeat balls, sweetbreads, or fried oysters, and pieces of lemon. Dish it with the breast upwards. You may add a few morels and truffles to your sauce.
Turkey in a hurry.
TRUSS a turkey with the legs inward, and flatten it as much as you can: then put it into a stew-pan, with melted lard, chopped parsley, shalots, mushrooms, and a little garlic; give it a few turns on the fire, and add the juice of half a lemon to keep it white. Then put it into another stew-pan, with slices of veal, one slice of ham, and melted lard, and every thing as used before; adding whole pepper and salt; cover it over with slices of lard, and set it about half an hour over a slow fire then add a glass of white wine and a little broth, and finish the brazing; skim and sift the sauce, add a little cullis to make it rich, reduce it to a good consistence, put the turkey into your dish, and pour the sauce over it. Garnish with lemon.
Fowls a-la-Braise.
TRUSS your fowl as for boiling, with the legs in the body; then lay over it a layer of fat bacon cut in thin slices, wrap it round in beet-leaves, then in a caul of veal, and put it into a large saucepan with three pints of water, a glass of Madeira wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three blades of mace, and half a lemon; stew it till it is quite tender, then take it up and skim off the fat; make your gravy pretty thick with flour and butter, strain it through a hair sieve, and put to it a pint of oysters and a tea-cupful of thick cream; keep shaking your pan over the fire, and when it has simmered a short time, serve up your fowl with the bacon, beet-leaves, and caul on, and pour your sauce hot upon it. Garnish with barberries and red beet-root.
Fowls forced.
TAKE a large fowl, pick it clean, draw it, cut it down the back, and take the skin off the whole; cut the flesh from the bones, and chop it with half a pint of oysters, one ounce of beef marrow, and a little pepper and salt. Mix it up with cream; then lay the meat on the bones, draw the skin over it, and sew up the back. Cut large thin slices of bacon, lay them on the breast of your fowl, and tie them on with packthread in diamonds. It will take an hour roasting by a moderate fire. Make a good brown gravy sauce, pour it into your dish, take the bacon off, lay in your fowl, and serve it up. Garnish with pickles, mushrooms, or oysters. It is proper for a side-dish at dinner, or top-dish for supper.
Fowls marinaded.
RAISE the skin from the breast-bone of a large fowl with your finger; then take a veal sweetbread and cut it small, a few oysters, a few mushrooms, an anchovy, some pepper, a little nutmeg, some lemon-peel, and a little thyme; chop all together small, and mix it with the yolk of an egg, stuff it in between the skin and the flesh, but take great care you do not break the skin: and then put what oysters you please in the body of the fowl. Paper the breast, and roast it. Make good gravy, and garnish with lemon. You may add a few mushrooms to the sauce.
Chickens chiringrate.
FLATTEN the breast-bones of your chickens with a rolling-pin, but be careful you do not break the skin. Strew some flour over them, then fry them in butter of a fine light brown, and drain all the fat out of the pan, but leave the chickens in. Lay a pound of gravy beef, with the same quantity of veal cut into thin slices, over your chickens, together with a little mace, two or three cloves, some whole pepper, an onion, a small bunch of sweet herbs, and a piece of carrot. Then pour in a quart of boiling water, cover it close, and let it stew a quarter of an hour. Then take out the chickens, and keep them hot: let the gravy boil till it is quite rich and good; then strain it off, and put it into your pan again, with two spoonsful of red wine and a few mushrooms. Put in your chickens to heat, then take them up, lay them in your dish, and pour your sauce over them. Garnish with lemon, and a few slices of cold ham broiled.
Chickens a-la-braise.
TAKE a couple of fine chickens, lard them, and season them with pepper, salt, and mace; then put a layer of veal in the bottom of a deep stew-pan, with a slice or two of bacon, an onion cut in pieces, a piece of carrot, and a layer of beef; then put in the chickens with the breast downwards, and a bundle of sweet herbs; after that a layer of beef, and put in a quart of broth or water, cover it close, and let it stew very gently for an hour. In the meantime get ready a ragoo made thus: take two veal sweetbreads, cut them small, and put them into a saucepan, with a very little broth or water, a few cock’s-combs, truffles, and morels cut small, with an ox-palate. Stew them all together, and when your chickens are done, take them up, and keep them hot; then strain the liquor they were stewed in, skim off the fat, and pour it into your ragoo; add a glass of red wine, a spoonful of catsup, and a few mushrooms; then boil all together with a few artichoke bottoms cut in four, and asparagus tops. If your sauce is not thick enough, put in a piece of butter rolled in flour; and when properly done, lay your chickens in the dish, and pour the ragoo over them. Garnish with lemon.
TAKE two chickens, and roast them. Boil some calf’s feet to a strong jelly; then take out the feet, and skim off the fat; beat up the whites of three eggs, and mix them with half a pint of white vinegar, and the juice of three lemons, a blade or two of mace, a few peppercorns, and a little salt. Put them to your jelly; and when it has boiled live or six minutes, strain it several times through a jelly-bag till it is very clear. Then put a little in the bottom of a bowl large enough to hold your chickens, and when they are cold and the jelly set, lay them in with their breasts down. Then fill your bowl quite full with the rest of your jelly, which you must take care to keep from setting, so that when you pour it into your bowl it will not break. Let it stand all night; and the next day put your basin into warm water, pretty near the top. As soon as you find it loose in the basin, lay your dish over it, and turn it whole.
Chickens and Tongues.
BOIL six small chickens very white; then take six hogs’ tongues boiled and peeled, a cauliflower boiled whole in milk and water, and a good deal of spinach boiled green. Then lay your cauliflower in the middle, the chickens close all round, and the tongues round them with the roots outwards, and the spinach in little heaps between the tongues. Garnish with small pieces of bacon toasted, and lay a piece on each of the tongues. This is a good dish for a large company.
Pullets a-la-Sainte Menehout.
HAVING trussed the legs in the body, slit them down the back, spread them open on a table, take out the thigh bones, and beat them with a rolling pin.—Season them with pepper, salt, mace, nutmeg, and sweet herbs. Then take a pound and a half of veal, cut it into thin slices, and lay it in a stew-pan. Cover it close, and set it over a slow fire, and when it begins to stick to the pan, stir in a little flour, shake it about till it is a little brown, and then pour in as much broth as will stew the fowls. Stir them together, and put in a little whole pepper, an onion, and a slice of bacon or ham. Then lay in your fowls, cover them close, and when they have stewed half an hour, take them out, lay them on the gridiron to brown on the inside, and then lay them before the fire to do on the outside. Strew over them the yolk of an egg, and some crumbs of bread, and baste them with a little butter. Let them be of a line brown, and boil the gravy till there is about enough for sauce; then strain it, and put into it a few mushrooms, with a small piece of butter rolled in flour. Lay the pullets in the dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon.
Ducks a-la-Braise.
HAVING dressed and singed your ducks, lard them quite through with bacon rolled in shred parsley, thyme, onions, beaten mace, cloves, pepper, and salt. Put in the bottom of a stew-pan a few slices of fat bacon, the same of ham or gammon of bacon, two or three slices of veal or beef: lay your ducks in with the breasts down, and cover them with slices, the same as put under them; cut a carrot or two, a turnip, one onion, a head of celery, a blade of mace, four or five cloves, and a little whole pepper. Cover them close down, and let them simmer a little over a gentle fire till the breasts are a light brown; then put in some broth or water, cover them as close down again as you can; stew them gently two or three hours till enough. Then take some parsley, an onion or shalot, two anchovies, and a few girkins or capers; chop them all very fine, put them into a stew-pan with part of the liquor from the ducks, a little browning, and the juice of half a lemon; boil it up, and cut the ends of the bacon even with the breasts of your ducks, lay them in your dish, pour the sauce hot upon them, and serve them up.
Ducks a-la-mode.
TAKE a couple of fine ducks, cut them into quarters, and fry them in butter till they are of a light brown. Then pour out all the fat, dust a little flour over them, and put in half a pint of good gravy, a quarter of a pint of red wine, an anchovy, two shalots, and a bundle of sweet herbs: cover them close, and let them stew a quarter of an hour. Take out the herbs, skim off the fat, and thicken your sauce with a bit of butter rolled in flour. Put your ducks into the dish, strain your sauce over them, and send them to table. Garnish with lemon or barberries.
Ducks a-la-Françoise.
PUT two dozen of roasted chesnuts peeled into a pint of rich gravy, with a few leaves of thyme, two small onions, a little whole pepper, and a bit of ginger. Take a fine tame duck, lard it, and half roast it, then put it into the gravy, let it stew ten minutes, and add a quarter of a pint of red wine. When the duck is enough take it out, boil up the gravy to a proper thickness, skim it very clean from the fat, lay the duck in the dish, and pour the sauce over. Garnish with lemon.
A Goose a-la-mode.
PICK a large fine goose clean, skin and bone* it nicely, and take off the fat. Then take a dried tongue, and boil and peel it. Take a fowl, and treat it in the same manner as the goose; season it with pepper, salt, and beaten mace, and roll it round the tongue. Season the goose in the same manner, and put both tongue and fowl into the goose. Put it into a little pot that will just hold it, with two quarts of beef gravy, a bundle of sweet herbs, and an onion. Put some slices of ham, or good bacon, between the fowl and goose; then cover it close, and stew it over a fire for an hour very slowly. Then take up your goose, and skim off all the fat, strain it, and put in a glass of red wine, two spoonsful of catsup, a veal sweetbread cut small, some truffles, mushrooms, and morels, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and, if wanted, some pep per and salt. Put the goose in again, cover it close, and let it stew half an hour longer. Then take it up, pour the ragoo over it, and garnish with lemon. You must remember to save the bones of the goose and fowl, and put them into the gravy when it is first set on. It will be an improvement if you roll some beef marrow between the tongue and the fowl, and between the fowl and the goose, as it will make them mellow, and eat the finer.
A Goose marinaded.
BONE your goose, and stuff it with forcemeat made thus: take ten or twelve sage leaves, two large onions, and two or three large sharp apples; chop them very fine, and mix them with the crumb of a penny loaf, four ounces of beef marrow, one glass of red wine, half a nutmeg grated, pepper, salt, and a little lemon-peel shred small, and the yolks of four eggs. When you have stuffed your goose with this, sew it up, fry it of a light brown, and then put it into a deep stew-pan, with two quarts of good gravy. Cover it close, and let it stew two hours; then take it out, put it into a dish, and keep it warm. Skim the fat clean off from the gravy, and put into it a large spoonful of lemon-pickle, one of browning, and one of red wine, an anchovy shred fine, a little beaten mace, with pepper and salt to your palate. Thicken it with flour and butter, dish up your goose, strain the gravy over it, and send it to table.
Pigeons Compote.
TRUSS six young pigeons in the same manner as for boiling, and make a forcemeat for them thus:—Grate the crumb of a penny loaf, and scrape a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, which will answer the purpose better than suet. Chop a little parsley and thyme, two shalots, or an onion, some lemon-peel, and a little nutmeg grated; season them with pepper and salt, and mix them up with eggs. Put this forcemeat into the craws of the pigeons, lard them down the breast, and fry them brown. Then put them into a stew-pan, with some good brown gravy, and when they have stewed three quarters of an hour, thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour. When you serve them up, strain your gravy over them, and lay forcemeat balls round them.
French Pupton of Pigeons.
PUT savory forcemeat, rolled out like paste, into a butter-dish. Then put a layer of very thin slices of bacon, squab pigeons, sliced sweetbread, asparagus tops, mushrooms, cock’s-combs, a palate boiled tender, and cut into pieces, and the yolks of four eggs boiled hard. Make another forcemeat, and lay it over the whole like a pie-crust. Then bake it, and when it is enough, turn it into a dish, and pour in some good rich gravy.
Pigeons a-la-Braise.
PICK, draw, and truss some large pigeons, then take a stew-pan, and lay at the bottom some slices of bacon, veal, and onions; season the pigeons with pepper, salt, some spice beat fine, and sweet herbs. Put them into the stew-pan, and lay upon them some more slices of veal and bacon; let them stew very gently over a stove, and cover them down very close. When they are stewed, make a ragoo with veal sweetbreads, truffles, morels, champignons; the sweetbreads must be blanched and put into a stew-pan with a ladle full of gravy, a little cullis, the truffles, morels, &c. Let them all stew together with the pigeons. When they are enough, put them into a dish, and pour the ragoo over them.
Pigeons au Poise.
CUT off the feet of your pigeons, and stuff them with forcemeat in the shape of a pear; roll them in the yolk of an egg, and then in crumbs of bread. Put them into a dish well buttered, but do not let them touch each other, and send them to the oven. When they are enough, lay them in a dish, and pour in good gravy thickened with the yolk of an egg, or butter rolled in flour; but do not pour your gravy over the pigeons. Garnish with lemon.—This is a very genteel dish, and may be improved by the following variation; lay one pigeon in the middle, the rest round, and stewed spinach between, with poached eggs on the spinach. Garnish with notched lemon and orange cut in quarters, and have melted butter in boats.
Fricandeau of Pigeons.
AFTER having larded all the upper part of your pigeons with bacon, stew them in the same manner as the fricandeau a-la-Bourgeoise, page 131.
Pigeons a-la-daub.
PUT a layer of bacon into a large saucepan, then a layer of veal, a layer of coarse beef, and another little layer of veal, about a pound of beef, and a pound of veal, cut very thin, a piece of carrot, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, some black and white pepper, a blade or two of mace, and four or five cloves. Cover the saucepan close, set it over a slow fire, and draw it till it is brown, to make the gravy of a fine light brown. Then put a quart of boiling water, and let it stew till the gravy is quite rich and good. Strain it off, and skim off all the fat. In the meantime, stuff the bellies of the pigeons with forcemeat made thus: take a pound of veal, and a pound of beef suet, and beat both fine in a mortar; an equal quantity of crumbs of bread, some pepper, salt, nutmeg, beaten mace, a little lemon-peel cut small, some parsley cut small, and a very little thyme stripped. Mix all together with the yolks of two eggs, fill the pigeons with this, and flat the breasts down. Flour them, and fry them in fresh butter a little brown. Then pour the fat clean out of the pan, and put the gravy to the pigeons. Cover them close, and let them stew a quarter of an hour, or till they are quite enough. Then take them up, lay them in a dish, and pour in your sauce. On each pigeon lay a bay-leaf, and on each leaf a slice of bacon. Garnish with a lemon notched.
Pigeons a-la-Soussel.
BONE four pigeons, and make a forcemeat as for pigeons compote. Stuff them, and put them into a stew-pan with a pint of veal gravy. Stew them half an hour very gently, and then take them out. In the meantime make a veal forcemeat, and wrap it all round them. Rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and fry them of a nice brown in good dripping. Take the gravy they were stewed in, skim off the fat, thicken with a little butter rolled in flour, the yolk of an egg, and a gill of cream beat up. Season it with pepper and salt, mix it altogether, and keep it stirring one way till it is smooth. Strain it into your dish, and put the pigeons on. Garnish with plenty of fried parsley.
Pigeons in a Hole.
PICK, draw, and wash four young pigeons, stick their legs in their bellies as you do boiled pigeons, and season them with pepper, salt, and beaten mace. Put into the belly of each pigeon a lump of butter the size of a walnut. Lay your pigeons in a pie-dish, pour over them a batter made of three eggs, two spoonsful of flour, and half a pint of good milk. Bake them in a moderate oven, and serve them to table in the same dish.
Jugged Pigeons.
PLUCK and draw six pigeons, wash them clean, and dry them with a cloth; season them with beaten mace, white pepper, and salt. Put them into a jug with half a pound of butter upon them. Stop up the jug close with a cloth, that no steam can get out, then set in a kettle of boiling water, and let it boil an hour and a half. Then take out your pigeons, put the gravy that is come from them into a pan, and add to it a spoonful of wine, one of catsup, a slice of lemon, half an anchovy chopped, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Boil it a little, and then thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour; lay your pigeons in the dish, and strain your gravy over them. Garnish with parsley and red cabbage.—This makes a very pretty side or corner dish.
Partridges a-la-Braise.
TAKE two brace of partridges, and truss the legs into the bodies; lard them, and season with beaten mace, pepper, and salt. Take a stew-pan, lay slices of bacon at the bottom, then slices of beef, and then slices of veal, all cut thin, a piece of carrot, an onion cut small, a bundle of sweet herbs, and some whole pepper. Put in the partridges with the breasts down wards, lay some thin slices of beef and veal over them, and some parsley shred fine. Cover them, and let them stew eight or ten minutes over a slow fire; then give your pan a shake, and pour in a pint of boiling water. Cover it close, and let it stew half an hour over a little quicker fire; then take out your birds, keep them hot, pour into the pan a pint of thin gravy, let them boil till there is about half a pint, then strain it off, and skim off all the fat. In the meantime have a veal sweetbread cut small, truffles and morels, cock’s-combs, and fowls’ livers stewed in a pint of good gravy half ah hour, some artichoke-bottoms and asparagus tops, both blanched in warm water, and a few mushrooms. Then add the other gravy to this, and put in your partridges to heat. If it is not thick enough, put in a piece of butter rolled in flour. When thoroughly hot, put in your partridges into the dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve them to table.
Pheasants a-la-Braise.
COVER the bottom of your stew-pan with a layer of beef, a layer of veal, a little piece of bacon, a piece of carrot, an onion stuck with cloves, a blade or two of mace, a spoonful of pepper, black and white, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Having done this, put in your pheasant, and cover it with a layer of beef and a layer of veal. Set it on the fire for five or six minutes, and then pour in two quarts of boiling gravy. Cover it close, and let it stew very gently an hour and a half. Then take up your pheasant, and keep it hot; let the gravy boil till it is reduced to about a pint, then strain it off, and put it in again. Put in a veal sweetbread that has been stewed with the pheasant, some truffles and morels, livers of fowls, artichoke-bottoms, and (if you have them) asparagus tops. Let these simmer in the gravy about live or six minutes, and then add two spoonsful of catsup, two of red wine, a spoonful of browning, and a little piece of butter rolled in flour. Shake all together, then put in your pheasant, with a few mushrooms, and let them stew about five or six minutes more. Then take up your pheasant, pour the ragoo over it, and lay forcemeat-balls round. Garnish with lemon.
Snipes, or Woodcocks, in surtout.
TAKE some forcemeat made of veal, as much beef-suet chopped and beat in a mortar, with an equal quantity of crumbs of bread; mix in a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, some parsley, a few sweet herbs, and the yolk of an egg. Lay some of this meat round the dish, and then put in the snipes, being first drawn and half roasted. Take care of the trail, chop it, and scatter it all over the dish. Take some good gravy, according to the bigness of your surtout, some truffles and morels, a few mushrooms, a sweetbread cut into pieces, and artichoke-bottoms cut small. Let ah stew together, shake them, and take the yolks of two or three eggs, beat them up with a spoonful or two of white wine, and stir all together one way. When it is thick, take it off, let it cool, and pour it into the surtout. Put in the yolks of a few hard eggs here and there, season with beaten mace, pepper, and salt, to your taste; cover with the forcemeat all over, then rub on the yolks of eggs to colour it, and send it to the oven. Half an hour will do it sufficiently.
Snipes, with Purslain Leaves.
DRAW your snipes, and make a forcemeat for the inside, but preserve your ropes for your sauce; spit them across upon a lark-spit, covered with bacon and paper, and roast them gently. For sauce you must take some prime thick leaves of purslain, blanch them well in water, put them into a ladle of cullis and gravy, a bit of shalot, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and parsley, and stew all together for half an hour gently. Have the ropes ready blanched and put in. Dish up your snipes upon thin slices of bread fried., squeeze the juice of an orange into your sauce, and serve them up.
Larks a-la-Françoise.
TRUSS your larks with the legs across, and put a sage-leaf over the breasts. Put them on a long thin skewer, and between every lark put a thin bit of bacon. Then tie the skewer to a spit, and roast them before a clear brisk fire; baste them with butter, and strew over them some crumbs of bread mixed with flour. Fry some crumbs of bread of a fine brown in butter. Lay the larks round the dish, and the breadcrumbs in the middle.
Florendine Hares.
LET your hare be a full-grown one, and let it hang up four or five days before you case it. Leave on the ears, but take out all the bones except those of the head, which must be left entire. Lay your hare on the table, and put into it the following forcemeat: take the crumb of a two-penny loaf, the liver shred fine, half a pound of fat bacon scraped, a glass of red wine, an anchovy, two eggs, a little winter savory, some sweet-marjorum, thyme, and a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Having put this into the belly, roll it up to the head, and fasten it with packthread, as you would a collar of veal. Wrap it in a cloth, and boil it an hour and a half in a saucepan, covered with two quarts of water. As soon as the liquor is reduced to about a quart, put in a pint of red wine, a spoonful of lemon-pickle, one of catsup, and the same of browning. Then stew it till it is reduced to a pint, and thicken it with butter rolled in flour. Lay round your hare a few morels, and four slices of forcemeat boiled in a caul of a leg of veal. When you dish it up, draw the jawbones, and stick them in the sockets of the eyes. Let the ears lie back on the roll, and stick a sprig of myrtle in the mouth. Strain your sauce over it, and garnish with barberries and parsley.
Florendine Rabbits.
SKIN three young rabbits, but leave on the ears, and wash and dry them with a cloth. Take out the bones as carefully as you can, but leave the head whole, and proceed in the same manner as before directed for the hare. Have ready a white sauce made of veal gravy, a little anchovy, and the juice of half a lemon, or a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle. Strain it, and then put in a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, so as to make the sauce pretty thick. Beat up the yolk of an egg, put to it some thick cream, nutmeg, and salt, and mix it with the gravy. Let it simmer a little over the fire, but not boil, then pour it over your rabbits, and serve them up. Garnish with lemon and barberries.
Jugged Hare.
CUT your hare into small pieces, and lard them here and there with little slips of bacon, season them with pepper and salt, and put them in an earthen jug, with a blade or two of mace, an onion stuck with cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Cover the jug close, that nothing may get in; set it in a pot of boiling water, and three hours will do it. Then turn it into the dish, take out the onion and sweet herbs, and send it hot to table.
Rabbits surprised.
TAKE two young rabbits, skewer them, arid put the same kind of pudding in them as for roasted rabbits. When they are roasted, take off the meat clean from the bones; but leave the bones whole. Chop the meat very fine, with a little shred parsley, some lemon-peel, an ounce of beef marrow, a spoonful of cream, and a little salt. Beat up the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, and a small piece of butter, in a marble mortar: then mix all together, and put it into a stew-pan. Having stewed it five minutes, lay it on the rabbits, where you took the meat off, and put it close down with your hand, to make them appear like whole rabbits. Then with a salamander brown them all over. Pour a good brown gravy, made as thick as cream, into the dish, and stick a bunch of myrtle in their mouths. Send them up to table, with their livers boiled and frothed.
Rabbits en Casserole.
CUT your rabbits into quarters, and then lard them or not, just as you please. Shake some flour over them, and fry them in lard or butter. Then put them into an earthen pipkin, with a quart of good broth, a glass of white wine, a little pepper and salt, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour. Cover them close, and let them stew half an hour; then dish them up, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish with Seville oranges cut into thin slices and notched.
Macaroni.
BROIL four ounces of macaroni till it is quite tender, then lay it on a sieve to drain, and put it into a stew-pan, with about a gill of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Boil it five minutes, pour it on a plate. Lay Parmasan cheese roasted all over it, and send it up in a water-plate.
Amulets.
TAKE six eggs, beat them up as fine as you can, strain them through a hair sieve, and put them into a frying-pan, in which must be a quarter of a pound of hot butter. Throw in a little ham scraped fine, with shred parsley, and season them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Fry it brown on the under side, and lay it on your dish, but do not turn it. Hold a hot salamander over it for half a minute, to take off the raw look of the eggs. Stick curled parsley in it, and serve it up.
Amulets of Asparagus.
BEAT up six eggs with cream, boil some of the largest and finest asparagus, and, when boiled, cut off all the green in small pieces. Mix them with the eggs, and put in some pepper and salt. Make a slice of butter hot in the pan, put them in, and serve them up on buttered toast.
Oyster Loaves.
MAKE a hole in the top of some little round loaves, and take out all the crumb. Put some oysters into a stew-pan, with the oyster liquor, and the crumbs that were taken out of the loaves, and a large piece of butter; stew them together five or six minutes, then put in a spoonful of good cream, then fill your loaves. Lay a bit of crust carefully on the top of each, and put them in the oven to crisp.
Mushroom Loaves.
TAKE some small buttons, and wash them as for pickling. Boil them a few minutes in a little water, and put to them two large spoonsful of cream, with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and a little salt and pepper. Boil these up, then fill your loaves, and do them in the same manner as directed in the preceding article.
Eggs in Surtout.
BOIL half a pound of bacon cut into thin slices, and fry some bits of bread in butter; put three spoonsful of cullis into your dish, garnish the rim with fried bread, break some eggs in the middle, cover them with the rashers of bacon, and do them over a slow fire.
Eggs and Broccoli.
BOIL your broccoli tender, observing to save a large bunch for the middle, and six or eight little thick sprigs to stick round. Toast a bit of bread as large as you would have it for your dish or butter plate. Butter some eggs, thus: take six eggs or as many as you have occasion for, beat them well, put them into a saucepan, with a good piece of butter and a little salt; keep beating them with a spoon till they are thick enough, and then pour them on the toast. Set the largest bunch of broccoli in the middle, and the other little pieces round and about. Garnish the dish with little sprigs of broccoli. This is a pretty side dish or corner plate.
Spinach and Eggs.
PICK and wash your spinach very clean in several waters, then put it into a saucepan with a little salt; cover it close, and shake the pan often. When it is just tender, and whilst it is green, throw it into a sieve to drain, and then lay it in your dish. Have ready a stew-pan of water boiling, and break as many eggs into cups as you would poach. When the water boils put in the eggs, have an egg slice ready to take them out with, lay them on the spinach, and serve them up with melted butter in a cup. Garnish with orange cut into quarters.
To make Ramekins.
PUT a bit of Parmasan cheese into a stew-pan, bruising it with a quarter of a pound of fresh batter, a gill of water, very little salt, and an anchovy cut small; boil the whole well together, and put in as much flour as the sauce will suck up; keep it over the fire till it forms a thick paste, then put it into a stew-pan with the yolks of a dozen eggs, and beat up the whites quite stiff till they will bear an egg, then mix the whites with the rest. Drop them into square paper cases. If well made, the ramekins will be of a light and of a fine colour.
* It may not be amiss to inform the cook, that the best method of boning a goose, or fowls of any sort, is to begin at the breast, and to take out the bones without cutting the back; for without this method, when it is sewed up, and you come to stew it, it generally bursts in the back, whereby the shape of it is spoiled.