CHAPTER XVIII.
CHEESECAKES AND CUSTARDS.
SECT. I.
CHEESECAKES.
THE shorter time any cheesecakes are made, before put into the oven, the better; but more particularly almond or lemon cheesecakes, as standing long will make them grow oily, and give them a disagreeable appearance. Particular attention must likewise be paid to the heat of the oven, which must be moderate; for if it is too hot, they will be scorched, and consequently their beauty spoiled; and, if too slack, they will look black and heavy.
PUT a spoonful of rennet into a quart of new milk, and set it near the fire. When the milk is blood-warm, and broken, drain the curd through a coarse sieve. Now and then break the curd gently with your fingers, and rub into it a quarter of a pound of butter, the same quantity of sugar, a nutmeg, and two Naples biscuits grated; the yolks of four eggs, and the white of one, with an ounce of almonds well beaten with two spoonsful of rose-water, and the same of sack. Then clean and wash six ounces of currants, and put them into the curd. Mix all well together, fill your patty-pans, and send them to a moderate oven.
Fine Cheesecakes.
PUT a pint of cream into a saucepan over the fire, and when it is warm, add to it five quarts of milk, immediately taken from the cow. Then put to it some rennet, give it a stir about, and when it is turned, put the curd into a linen cloth or bag. Let it drain well away from the whey, but do not squeeze it too much. Put it into a mortar, and pound it as fine as butter. Add to it half a pound of sweet-almonds blanched, and half a pound of macaroons, both beat exceeding fine, but if you have no macaroons, Naples biscuits will do. Then add the yolks of nine eggs well beaten up, a grated nutmeg, a little rose or orange-flower water, and half a pound of fine sugar. Mix all well together, and melt a pound and a quarter of butter, and stir it well in. Then make a puff-paste in this manner: take a pound of fine flour, wet it with cold water, roll it out, put into it by degrees a pound of fresh butter, and shake a little flour on each coat as you roll it. Then proceed to finish your business as before directed, and send them to the oven. For variety, when you make them of macaroons, put in as much tincture of saffron as will give them a high colour, but no currants. These may be called saffron cheesecakes.
SLICE a penny loaf as thin as possible, then pour on it a pint of boiling cream, and let it stand two hours. Then take eight eggs, half a pound of butter, and a nutmeg grated. Beat them well together, and mix them into the cream and bread, with half a pound of currants well washed and dried, and a spoonful of white wine or brandy. Bake them in patty-pans, or raised crust.
Rice Cheesecakes.
BOIL four ounces of rice till it is tender, and then put it into a sieve to drain. Mix with it four eggs well beaten up, half a pound of butter, half a pint of cream, six ounces of sugar, a nutmeg grated, and a glass of brandy or ratifia water. Beat them all well together, then put them into raised crusts, and bake them in a moderate oven.
Almond Cheesecakes.
TAKE four ounces of sweet almonds, blanch them, and put them into cold water; then beat them in a marble mortar, or wooden bowl, with some rose-water. Put to it four ounces of sugar, and the yolks of four eggs beat fine. Work it in the mortar, or bowl, till it becomes white and frothy, and then make a rich puff-paste as follows: take half a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, rub a little of the butter into the flour, mix it stiff with a little cold water, and then roll your paste straight out. Strew on a little flour, and lay over it, in thin bits, one third of your butter; throw a little more flour over the bottom, and do the like three different times. Then put the paste into your tins, fill them, grate sugar over them, and bake them in a gentle oven.
Or you may make Almond Cheesecakes thus:
TAKE four ounces of almonds, blanch them, and beat them with a little orange-flower water; add the yolks of eight eggs, the rind of a large lemon grated, half a pound of melted butter, and sugar to your taste; lay a thin puff-paste at the bottom of your tins, and little slips across. Add about half a dozen bitter almonds.
Lemon Cheesecakes.
BOIL the peelings of two large lemons till they are tender; then pound them well in a mortar, with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, the yolks of six eggs, half a pound of fresh butter, and a little curd beat fine. Pound and mix all together, lay a puff-paste in your patty-pans, fill them half full, and bake them.
Orange cheesecakes must be done the same way; but you must boil the peel in two or three waters to deprive it of its bitter taste.
Citron Cheesecakes.
BEAT the yolks of four eggs, and mix them with a quart of boiled cream. When it is cold, set it on the fire, and let it boil till it curds. Blanch some almonds, beat them with orange-flower water, and put them into cream with a few Naples biscuits, and green citron shred fine. Sweeten it to your taste, and bake them in cups.
SECT. II.
CUSTARDS.
IN making of custards, the greatest care must be taken that your pan be well tinned; and always remember to put a spoonful of water into it, to prevent your ingredients sticking to the bottom.
Plain Custards.
PUT a quart of good cream over a slow fire, with a little cinnamon, and four ounces of sugar. When it has boiled, take it off the fire, beat the yolks of eight eggs, and put to them a spoonful of orange-flower water, to prevent the cream from cracking. Stir them in by degrees as your cream cools, put the pan over a very slow fire, stir it carefully one way till it is almost boiling, and then pour it into cups.
Or you may make them in this manner:
TAKE a quart of new milk, sweeten to your taste, beat up well the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of four. Stir them into the milk, and bake it in china basins. Or put them into a china dish, and pour boiling water round them, till the water is better than half way up their sides; but take care the water does not boil too fast, lest it should get into your cups, and spoil your custards.
Baked Custards.
BOIL a pint of cream with some mace and cinnamon, and when it is cold, take four yolks and two whites of eggs, a little rose and orange-flower water and sack, and nutmeg and sugar to your palate. Mix them well together, and bake it in cups.
Rice Custards.
PUT a blade of mace and a quartered nutmeg into a quart of cream; boil it, then strain it, and add to it some whole rice boiled, and a little brandy. Sweeten it to your palate, stir it over the fire till it thickens, and serve it up in cups, or a dish. It may be used either hot or cold.
Almond Custards.
TAKE a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanch and beat them very fine, and then put them into a pint of cream, with two spoonsful of rose-water. Sweeten it to your palate, beat up the yolks of four eggs very fine, and put it in. Stir all together one way over the fire till it is thick, and then pour it into cups.
Lemon Custards.
TAKE half a pound of double-refined sugar, the juice of two lemons, the rind of one pared very thin, the inner rind of one boiled tender, and rubbed through a sieve, and a pint of white wine. Let them boil for some time, then take out the peel, and a little of the liquor, and set it to cool. Pour the rest into the dish you intend for it, beat four yolks and two whites of eggs, and mix them with your cool liquor. Strain them into your dish, stir them well together, and set them on a slow fire in boiling water. When it is enough, grate the rind of a lemon on the top, and brown it over with a hot salamander. This may be eaten either hot or cold.
Orange Custards.
BOIL very tender the rind of half a Seville orange, and then beat it in a mortar till it is very fine. Put to it a spoonful of the best brandy, the juice of a Seville orange, four ounces of loaf sugar, and the yolks of four eggs. Beat them all well together for ten minutes, and then pour in by degrees a pint of boiling cream. Keep beating them till they are cold, then put them in custard cups and set them in a dish of hot water. Let them stand till they are set, then take them out, and stick preserved orange on the top. These, like the former, may be served up either hot or cold.