CHAPTER XXI.
PICKLING
PICKLES are essentially necessary to be kept in all houses, but particularly such as contain large families; nor will the prudent and judicious housekeeper be without them; and this for two reasons; first, to avoid the inconvenience of sending for them when wanted; and secondly, from being assured that they are done as they ought to be, that is, that they shall have their proper colour without that artifice which is likely to be prejudicial to those who use them. It is too common a practice to make use of brass utensils in order to give the pickles a fine green; but this pernicious custom is easily avoided by heating the liquor, and keeping it in a proper degree of warmth before you pour it on the articles to be pickled. It is usual to put pickles into earthen jars, but stone jars are by far the best, for though they are more expensive in the first purchase, they will be found much cheaper in the end; the earthen vessels are porous, and will consequently admit the air, and spoil the pickles, especially if they stand any length of time; but this will not be the case with stone jars. Remember, that when you take any pickle out of your jars, be sure never to do it with your fingers, as that will spoil the pickle; but always make use of a spoon, which you should keep entirely for that purpose.
Having mentioned these necessary and general observations relative to pickling, we shall now proceed to particulars, beginning with
Mangoes.
THE proper cucumbers to be used for this purpose are those of the largest sort, which must be taken from the vines before they are too ripe, or yellow at the ends. Cut a piece out of the side, and take out the seeds with an apple-scraper or a tea-spoon. Then put them into very strong salt and water for eight or nine days, or till they are yellow. Stir them well two or three times every day, and put them into a pan with a large quantity of vine leaves both over and under them. Beat a little roach alum very line, and put it into the salt and water they came out of. Pour it on your cucumbers, and set them on a very slow fire for four or five hours till they are pretty green. Then take them out, and drain them in a hair sieve, and when they are cold, put to them a little horse-radish, then mustard-seed, two or three heads of garlic, a few pepper-corns, a few green encumbers sliced in small pieces, then horseradish, and the same as before-mentioned, till you have filled them. Then take the piece you cut out, and sew it on with a large needle and thread, and do all the rest in the same manner. Have ready the following pickle: to every gallon of vinegar put an ounce of mace, the same of cloves, two ounces of sliced ginger, the same of long pepper, Jamaica pepper, three ounces of mustard-seed tied up in a bag, four ounces of garlic, and a stick of horse-radish cut in slices. Boil them five minutes in the vinegar, then pour it upon your pickles, tie them down close, and keep them for use.
Girkins.
PUT a quantity of spring water into a large earthen pan, and to every gallon put two pounds of salt. Mix them well together, and throw in five hundred girkins. When they have been two hours in the salt and water, take them out, and put them to drain; and when they are thoroughly dry, put them into your jar. Take a gallon of the best white wine vinegar, and put it in a saucepan, with half an ounce of cloves and mace, an ounce of allspice, the same quantity of mustard-seed, a stick of horse-radish cut in slices, six bay-leaves, two or three races of ginger, a nutmeg cut in pieces, and a handful of salt. Boil up all together, and pour it over the girkins. Cover them close down, and let them stand twenty-four hours. Then put them into your saucepan, and let them simmer over the fire till they are green; but be careful not to let them boil, as that will spoil them. Then put them into your jar, and cover them down close till they are cold. Then tie them over with a bladder and a piece of leather, and put them in a dry cold place.
Cucumbers.
FOR the purpose of pickling, choose the smallest cucumbers you can get, and be careful they are as free from spots as possible. Put them into strong salt and water for nine or ten days, or till they are quite yellow, and stir them twice a day, at least, or they will grow soft. When they are perfectly yellow, pour the water from them, and cover them with plenty of vine leaves. Set your water over the fire, and when it boils, pour it upon them, and set them upon the hearth to keep warm. When the water is nearly cold, make it boiling hot again, and pour it upon them. Proceed in this manner till you perceive they are of a fine green, which they will be in four or five times. Be careful to keep them well covered with vine leaves, with a cloth and dish over the top to keep in the steam, which will help to green them the sooner. When they are greened, put them into a hair sieve to drain, and then make the following pickle for them: to every two quarts of white wine vinegar, put half an ounce of mace, or ten or twelve cloves, an ounce of ginger cut into slices, the same of black pepper, and a handful of salt. Boil them all together for five minutes, pour it hot upon your pickles, and tie them down with a bladder for use.
Cucumbers in slices.
TAKE some large cucumbers before they are too ripe, slice them of the thickness of a crown-piece, and put them into a pewter dish. To every dozen of cucumbers slice two large onions thin, and so on till you have filled your dish, or have got the quantity you intend to pickle; but remember to put a handful of salt between every row. Then cover them with another pewter dish, and let them stand twenty-four hours. Then put them into a cullender, and when they are thoroughly dry, put them into a jar, cover them over with white wine vinegar, and let them stand four hours. Pour the vinegar from them into a saucepan, and boil it with a little salt. Put to the cucumbers a little mace, a little whole pepper, a large race of ginger sliced, and then pour on them the boiling vinegar. Cover them close, and when they are cold, tie them down, and they will be ready for use in a few days.
To Keep Cucumbers.
CHOOSE those that are small, and not too old; put them in jars, and pour over a brine like the French beans; (see p. 281;) when you use them take the rind off, and dress them in the same manner as others.
Walnuts.
THERE are various methods of pickling walnuts, in order to have them of different colours, the number of which are four, namely, black, white, olive colour, and green; each of which we shall describe in their proper order.
To pickle walnuts black, you must gather them before the shells get too hard, which may be known by running a pin into them, and always gather them when the sun is hot upon them. Put them into strong salt and water for nine days, and stir them twice a day, observing to change the salt and water every three days. Then put them into a hair sieve, and let them stand in the air till they turn black. Put them into strong stone jars, and pour boiling vinegar over them; cover them up, and let them stand till they are cold. Then give the vinegar three more boilings, pour it each time on the walnuts, and let it stand till it is cold between every boiling. Then tie them down with paper and a bladder over them, and let them stand two months. When that time has elapsed, take them out of the vinegar, and make a pickle for them thus: to every two quarts of vinegar put half an ounce of mace, and the same of cloves; of black pepper, Jamaica pepper, long pepper, and ginger, an ounce each, and two ounces of common salt. Boil it ten minutes, then pour it hot on your walnuts, tie them close down, and cover them with paper and a bladder.
To pickle walnuts white, you must proceed thus: having procured a sufficient quantity of walnuts, of the largest size, and taken the before-mentioned precaution that the shells are not too hard, pare them very thin till the white appears, and throw them into spring water and a handful of salt as you do them. Let them lie in the water six hours, and put a thin board upon them to keep them under the water. Then set a stew-pan with some clean spring water on a charcoal fire. Take your nuts out of the water, put them into the stew-pan, and let them simmer four or five minutes, but be careful they do not boil. Then have ready a pan of spring water with a handful of salt in it, and stir it till the salt is melted; then take your nuts out of the stew-pan with a wooden ladle, or spoon, and put them into the cold water and salt. Let them stand a quarter of an hour, with the board lying on them to keep them down as before; for if they are not kept under the liquor they will turn black. Then lay them on a cloth, and put them into your jar, with some blades of mace and nutmeg sliced thin. Mix your spice between your nuts, and pour distilled vinegar over them. When your jar is properly filled with nuts, pour mutton fat over them, tie them down close with a bladder and leather, and set them in a dry place.
Walnuts to be pickled of an olive colour, must be managed thus: having gathered your walnuts, with the same precautions as before directed, put them into strong ale allegar, and tie them down under a bladder and paper to keep out the air. Let them stand twelve months, then take them out of the allegar and make for them a pickle of strong allegar. To every quart, put half an ounce of Jamaica pepper, the same of long pepper, a quarter of an ounce of mace, the same of cloves, a head of garlic, and a little salt. Boil them altogether five or six minutes, and then pour it upon your walnuts. As it gets cold, boil it again three times, and pour it on them. Then tie them down with a bladder, and paper over it; and if your allegar is good, they will keep several years, without either turning colour or growing soft. You may make very good catsup of the allegar that comes from the walnuts, by adding a pound of anchovies, an ounce of cloves, the same of long and black pepper, a head of garlic, and half a pound of common salt, to every gallon of allegar. Boil it till it is half reduced, and skim it well. Then bottle it for use, and it will keep a great while.
To pickle walnuts green, proceed as follows: make use of the large double or French walnuts, gathered before the shells are hard. Wrap them singly in vine leaves, put a few vine leaves in the bottom of your jar, and nearly fill it with your walnuts. Take care they do not touch one another, and put a good many leaves over them. Then fill your jar with good allegar, cover them close that the air cannot get in, and let them stand for three weeks. Then pour the allegar from them, put fresh leaves at the bottom of another jar, take out your walnuts, and wrap them separately in fresh leaves as quick as possibly you can. Put them into your jar with a good many leaves over them, and fill it with white wine vinegar. Let them stand three weeks, pour off your vinegar, and wrap them up as before, with fresh leaves at the bottom and top of your jar. Take fresh white wine vinegar, put salt in it till it will bear an egg, and add to it mace, cloves, nutmegs and garlic. Boil it about eight minutes, and then pour it on your walnuts. Tie them close with a paper and a bladder, and set them by for use. Be careful to keep them covered, and when you take any out for use, if the whole should not be wanted, do not put those left again into the jar, for by that means the whole may be spoiled.
Red Cabbage.
SLICE your cabbage crossways, then put it on an earthen dish, and sprinkle a handful of salt over it. Cover it with another dish, and let it stand twenty-four hours. Then put it into a cullender to drain, and lay it into your jar. Take a sufficient quantity of white wine vinegar to cover it, a few cloves, a little mace, and allspice. Put them in whole, with a little cochineal bruised fine. Then boil it up, and pour it either hot or cold upon your cabbage. If the former, let it stand till cold, and then tie it down for use.
Onions.
TAKE a sufficient number of the smallest onions you can get, and put them into salt and water for nine days, observing to change the water every day. Then put them into jars, and pour fresh boiling salt and water over them. Let them stand close covered till they are cold, then make some more salt and water, and pour it boiling hot upon them. When it is cold, put your onions into a hair sieve to drain, then put them into wide-mouthed bottles, and fill them up with distilled vinegar. Put into every bottle a slice or two of ginger, a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of sweet oil, (which will keep the onions white,) a bay-leaf, and as much salt as will lay on a sixpence. Cork them well up, so that no air can get to them, and set them in a dry place.
Samphire.
TAKE what quantity of green samphire you think proper, put it into a clean pan, throw over it two or three handsful of salt, and cover it with spring water. When it has lain twenty-four hours, put it into a clean saucepan, throw in a handful of salt, and cover it with good vinegar. Cover the pan close, set it over a slow fire, let it stand till it is just green and crisp, and then take it off at that moment; for should it remain till it is soft, it will be totally spoiled. Put it into your pickling-pot, and cover it close. When it is quite cold, tie it down with a bladder and leather, and set it by for use. Samphire may be preserved all the year by keeping it in very strong brine of salt and water, and, just before you want to use it, put it for a few minutes into some of the best vinegar.
Kidney Beans.
TAKE some young small beans, and put them into strong salt and water for three days, stirring them two or three times each day. Then put them into a pan with vine leaves both under and over them, and pour on them the same water they came out of. Cover them close, and set them over a very slow fire till they are of a fine green. Then put them into a hair sieve to drain, and make a pickle for them of white wine vinegar, or fine ale allegar. Boil it five or six minutes with a little mace, Jamaica pepper, and a race or two of ginger sliced. Then pour it hot upon the beans, and tie them down with a bladder and paper.
To preserve French Beans.
TAKE any quantity of French beans you think fit, choosing those that are tender and least stringy; having cut off the ends, boil them a quarter of an hour, and shift them into cold water; then dry them, and put them into the jars in which you mean to keep them. Pour over your brine till it rises to the rim of the jar, then put over some butter that has been heated and is half cold, which will congeal upon the French beans, and keep them from the air. If you do not like to put butter you must put mutton suet in the same way. To make the brine, you must take two thirds water and one of vinegar; add several pounds according to the quantity of brine you would make, a pound to three pints. Set it over the fire till the salt is melted; let it settle, and before you use it pour it off clear.
Barberries.
TAKE a quantity of barberries not over ripe, pick off the leaves and dead stalks, and put them into jars, with a large quantity of strong salt and water, and tie them down with a bladder. When you see a scum rise on the barberries, put them into fresh salt and water; but they need no vinegar, their own natural sharpness being fully sufficient to preserve them. Cover them close, and set them by for use.
Beet Roots.
BOIL the roots till they are tender, and take off the skins, cut them in slices, gimp them in the shape of wheels, or what other form you please, and put them into a jar. Take as much vinegar as you think will cover them, and boil it with a little mace, a race of ginger sliced, and a few small pieces of horse-radish. Pour it hot upon the roots, and tie them down close.
Radish Pods.
GATHER your radish pods when they are quite young, and put them into salt and water all night; the next day boil the salt and water they were laid in, pour it upon the pods, and cover your jar close to keep in the steam. When it is nearly cold, make it boiling hot, and pour it on again, and continue doing so till the pods are quite green. Then put them into a sieve to drain, and make a pickle for them of white wine vinegar, with a little mace, ginger, long pepper, and horseradish. Pour it boiling hot upon your pods, and when it is almost cold, make your vinegar twice as hot as before, and pour it upon them. Tie them down with a bladder, and set them in a dry place.
Cauliflowers.
TAKE the whitest and closest cauliflowers you can get, break the flowers into bunches, and spread them on an earthen dish. Lay salt all over them, and let them stand for three days to draw out all the water. Then put them into jars, and pour boiling salt and water upon them. Let them stand all night, then drain them in a hair sieve, and put them into glass jars. Fill up your jars with distilled vinegar, and tie them close down.
BOIL your artichokes till you can pull off all the leaves, and thoroughly clear the bottoms. Put them into salt and water for an hour, then take them out, and lay them on a cloth to drain. When they are dry, put them into large wide-mouthed glasses, with a little mace and sliced nutmeg between, and fill them with distilled vinegar. Cover them with mutton fat melted, and tie them down with leather and a bladder.
To preserve Artichokes.
THEY may be quartered, the chokes taken out, and done exactly the same as the French beans.
Nasturtiums.
THE most proper time for gathering the berries is soon after the blossoms are gone off. Put them into cold salt and water, and change the water for three days successively. Make your pickle of white wine vinegar, mace, nutmeg sliced, shalots, pepper-corns, salt, and horse-radish. Make your pickle pretty strong, but do not boil it. When you have drained your berries, put them into a jar, pour the pickle to them, and tie them down close.
Mushrooms.
TAKE the smallest mushrooms you can get, put them into spring water, and rub them with a piece of new flannel dipped in salt. Throw them into cold water as you do them, which will make them keep their colour; then put them into a saucepan, and throw a handful of salt over them. Cover them close, and set them over the fire four or five minutes, or till you find they are thoroughly hot, and the liquor is drawn out from them. Then lay them between two clean cloths till they are cold, put them into glass bottles, and fill them up with distilled vinegar. Put a blade or two of mace and a tea-spoonful of sweet oil into every bottle. Cork them up close, and set them in a cool place. If you have not any distilled vinegar, you may use white wine vinegar, or ale allegar will do; but it must be boiled with a little mace, salt, and a few slices of ginger; and it must stand till it is cold before you pour it on your mushrooms.
Mushroom Catsup.
TAKE a quantity of the full grown flaps of mushrooms, crush them well with your hands, and then strew a quantity of salt all over them. Let them stand all night, and the next day put them into stew-pans. Set them in a quick oven for twelve hours, and then strain them through a hair sieve. To every gallon of liquor put of cloves, Jamaica and black pepper, and ginger, one ounce each, and half a pound of common salt. Set it on a slow fire, and let it boil till half the liquor is wasted away. Then put it into a clean pot, and when it is quite cold, bottle it for use.
Mushroom Powder.
GET the largest and the thickest buttons you can, peel them, and cut off the root end, but do not wash them. Spread them separately on pewter dishes, and set them in a slow oven to dry. Let the liquor dry up into the mushrooms, as that will make the powder much stronger, and let them continue in the oven till you find they will powder. Then beat them in a marble mortar, and sift them through a fine sieve, with a little chyan pepper and pounded mace. Bottle it quite clear, and keep it in a dry place.
Walnut Catsup.
Put what quantity of walnuts you think proper into jars, cover them with strong cold ale allegar, and tie them close for twelve months. Then take out the walnuts from the allegar, and to every gallon of the liquor put two heads of garlic, half a pound of anchovies, a quart of red wine, and of mace, cloves, long, black, and Jamaica pepper, and ginger, an ounce each. Boil them all together till the liquor is reduced to half the quantity, and the next day bottle it for use.
Another Method of making Walnut Catsup.
TAKE green walnuts before the shell is formed, and grind them in a crab-mill, or pound them in a marble mortar. Squeeze out the juice through a coarse cloth, and put to every gallon of juice a pound of anchovies, the same quantity of bay-salt, four ounces of Jamaica pepper, two of long and two of black pepper; of mace, cloves, and ginger, each an ounce, and a stick of horseradish. Boil all together till reduced to half the quantity, and then put it into a pot. When it is cold, bottle it close, and in three months it will be fit for use.
Indian Pickle, or Picalillo.
TAKE a cauliflower, a white cabbage, a few small cucumbers, radish-pods, kidney-beans, and a little beetroot, or any other thing commonly pickled. Put them into a hair sieve; and throw a large handful of salt over them. Set them in the sun or before the fire, for three days to dry. When all the water is run out of them, put them into a large earthen pot in layers, and between every layer put a handful of brown mustard-seed. Then take as much ale allegar as you think will cover it, and to every four quarts of allegar put an ounce of turmeric. Boil them together, and put it hot upon your pickle. Let it stand twelve days upon the hearth, or till the pickles are of a bright yellow colour, and most of the allegar sucked up. Then take two quarts of strong ale allegar, an ounce of mace, the same of white pepper, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and the same of long pepper and nutmeg. Beat them all together, and boil them ten minutes in the allegar. Then pour it upon your pickles, with four ounces of peeled garlic. Tie it close down, and set it by for use.
Asparagus.
GET the largest asparagus you can, cut off the white ends, and wash the green ends in spring water. Then put them into a pan of clean water, and let them lie in it two or three hours. Put as much spring water into a stew-pan as will nearly fill it, and throw in a large handful of salt. Set it on the fire, and when it boils put in your grass, not tied up, but loose, and not too many at a time, lest you break the heads. Just scald them, and no more; then take them out with a broad skimmer, and lay them on a cloth to cool. Make your pickle with a gallon or more (according to the quantity of your asparagus) of white wine vinegar, and an ounce of bay salt. Boil it, and put your asparagus into your jar. To a gallon of pickle put two nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of mace, and the same quantity of whole white pepper. Pour the pickle hot over the asparagus, and cover them with a linen cloth three or four times double; and when they have stood a week, boil the pickle again. Let them stand a week longer, then boil the pickle again, and put it on hot as before. When they are cold, cover them close, tie them tight down, and keep them in a dry place.
Parsley pickled Green.
MAKE a strong salt and water that will bear an egg, and throw into it a large quantity of curled parsley. Let it stand a week, then take it out to drain, make a fresh salt and water as before, and let it stand another week. Then drain it well, put it into spring water, and change it three days successively. Then scald it in hard water till it becomes green, take it out, and drain it quite dry. Boil a quart of distilled vinegar a few minutes, with two or three blades of mace, a nutmeg sliced, and a shalot or two. When it is quite cold, pour it on your parsley, with two or three slices of horse-radish, and keep it for use.
Peaches.
GATHER your peaches when they are at the full growth, and just before the time of their turning ripe; and be sure they are not bruised. Take as much spring water as you think will cover them, and make it salt enough to bear an egg, for which purpose you must use an equal quantity of bay and common salt. Then lay in your peaches, and put a thin board over them to keep them under the water. When they have been three days in this state, take them out, wipe them very carefully with a fine soft cloth, and lay them in your jar. Then take as much white wine vinegar as will fill your jar, a ad to every gallon put one pint of the best well made mustard, two or three heads of garlic, a good deal of ginger sliced, and half an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmegs. Mix your pickle well together, and pour it over your peaches. Tie them up close, and in two months they will be fit for use.
Nectarines and apricots must be pickled in the same manner.
Golden Pippins
TAKE a number of the finest pippins you can procure, free from spots and bruises, put them into a preserving-pan with cold spring water, and set them on a charcoal fire. Keep stirring them with a wooden spoon till they will peel, but do not let them boil. When you have peeled them, put them into the water again, with a quarter of a pint of the best vinegar, and a quarter of an ounce of alum. Cover them close with a pewter dish, and set them on a charcoal fire again, but do not let them boil. Keep turning them now and then till they look green, then take them out, and lay them on a cloth to cool. When they are quite cold, put to them the following pickle: to every gallon of vinegar put two ounces of mustard-seed, two or three heads of garlic, a good deal of ginger sliced, half an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmeg. Mix your pickle well together, pour it over your pippins, and cover them close.
Grapes.
LET your grapes be of their full growth, but not ripe. Cut them into small bunches fit for garnishing, and put them into a stone jar, with vine-leaves between every layer of grapes. Then take spring water, as much as will cover them, and put into it a pound of bay salt, and as much white salt as will make it bear an egg. Dry your bay salt, and pound it before you put it in, and that will make it melt the sooner. Put it into a pot, and boil and skim it well; but take off only the black scum. When it has boiled a quarter of an hour, let it stand to cool and settle; and when it is almost cold pour the clear liquor on the grapes, lay vine-leaves on the top, tie them down close with a linen cloth, and cover them with a dish. Let them stand twenty-four hours, then take them out, lay them on a cloth, cover them over with another, and let them dry between the cloths. Then take two quarts of vinegar, a quart of spring water, and a pound of coarse sugar. Let it boil a little, skim it very clean as it boils, and let it stand till it is quite cold. Dry your jar with a cloth, put fresh vine-leaves at the bottom and between every bunch of grapes, and on the top. Then pour the clear of the pickle on the grapes, fill your jar that the pickle may be above the grapes, and having tied a thin piece of board in a flannel, lay it on the top of the jar, to keep the grapes under the liquor. Tie them down with a bladder and leather, and when you want them for use, take them out with a wooden spoon. Be careful you tie them up again quite close, for, should the air get in, they will be inevitably spoiled.
Red Currants.
TAKE a quantity of white wine vinegar, and to every quart put in half a pound of Lisbon sugar. Then pick the worst of your currants and put them into this liquor; but put the best of your currants into glasses. Then boil your pickle with the worst of your currants, and skim it very clean. Boil it till it looks of a fine colour, and let it stand till it is cold. Then strain it through a cloth, wringing it to get all the colour you can from the currants. Let it stand to cool and settle, then pour it clear into the glasses in a little of the pickle, and when it is cold, cover it close with a bladder and leather. To every half pound of sugar put a quarter of a pound of white salt.
Caveach, or pickled Mackarel.
TAKE half a dozen of large mackarel, and cut them into round pieces. Then take an ounce of beaten pepper, three large nutmegs, a little mace, and a handful of salt. Mix your salt and beaten spice together, then make two or three holes in each piece, and with your finger thrust the seasoning into the holes. Rub the pieces all over with the seasoning, fry them brown in oil, and let them stand till they are cold. Then put them into vinegar, and cover them with oil. If well covered, they will keep a considerable time, and are most delicious eating.
Smelts.
AT that time of the year when smelts are seasonably abundant, take a quarter of a peck of them, and wash, clean, and gut them. Take half an ounce of pepper, the same quantity of nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of mace, half an ounce of saltpetre, and a quarter of a pound of common salt. Beat all very fine, and lay your smelts in rows in a jar. Between every layer of smelts strew the seasoning, with four or five-bay leaves. Then boil some fed wine, and pour over them a sufficient quantity to cover them. Cover them with a plate, and when cold stop them down close, and put them by for use. A few make a very-pretty supper.
Oysters.
TAKE two hundred of the newest and best oysters you can get, and be careful to save the liquor in a pan as you open them. Cut off the black verge, saving the rest, and put them into their own liquor. Then put all the liquor and oysters into a kettle, boil them half an hour on a gentle fire, and do them very slowly, skimming them as the scum rises. Then take them off the fire, take out the oysters, and strain the liquor through a fine cloth. Then put in the oysters again, take out a pint of the liquor when hot, and put thereto three quarters of an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of cloves. Just give it one boil, then put it to the oysters, and stir up the spices well among them. Then put in about a spoonful of salt, three quarters of a pint of the best white wine vinegar, and a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper: let them stand till they are cold, and put the oysters, as many as you well can, into the barrel. Put in as much liquor as the barrel will hold, letting them settle awhile, and they will soon be fit to eat. Or you may put them in stone jars, cover them close with a bladder and leather, and be sure they are quite cold before you cover them up.
In like manner you may do cockles and muscles, with this difference only, that there is not any thing to be picked off the cockles, and as they are small, the before-mentioned ingredients will be sufficient for two quarts of muscles; but take great care to pick out the crabs under the tongues, and the little pus which grows at the roots. Both cockles and muscles must be washed in several waters to cleanse them from grit. Put them into a stew-pan by themselves, cover them close, and when they open, pick them out of the shell, from the liquor, and proceed as directed for oysters.
Artificial Anchovies.
THESE must be made in the following manner to a peck of sprats put two pounds of common salt, a quarter of a pound of bay salt, four of saltpetre, two ounces of prunella salt, and a small quantity of cochineal. Pound all in a mortar, put them into a stone-pan, a row of sprats, then a layer of your compound, and so on alternately to the top. Press them hard down, cover them close, let them stand six months, and they will be fit for use. Remember that your sprats are as fresh as you can possibly get them, and that you neither wash or wipe them, but do them as they come out of the water.
Ox Palates.
WASH the palates well with salt and water, and put them into a pipkin with some clean salt and water. When they are ready to boil, skim them well, and put to them as much pepper, cloves, and mace, as will give them a quick taste. When they are boiled tender, which will require four or five hours, peel them, and cut them into small pieces, and let them cool. Then make the pickle of an equal quantity of white wine and vinegar. Boil the pickle, and put in the spices that were boiled in the palates. When both the pickle and palates are cold, lay your palates in a jar, and put to them a few bay-leaves, and a little fresh spice. Pour the pickle over them, cover them close, and keep them for use.