Pancetta-Wrapped Veal Birds with Arugula and Shiitake Mushroom Stuffing

My first memory of veal birds is of my mother bending over the oven, turning them to make sure they cooked evenly all around. When I asked, I found out they were called birds because the bacon wrap with freely flapping ends made the rolls look like birds without heads. (She was always quick to tell a good story when a child needed attention as she continued to attend to what she was doing.) It was a lasting image, but how those birds have flown: from veal to beef to chicken as the wrap. From bacon to pancetta girdle, from no stuffing at all to arugula and shiitake mushroom stuffing, and then to sauce! This version is a contemporary telling of an old story, deliciously rendered in the pressure cooker.

 

Makes 3 servings

 

3	veal scaloppine cutlets (about 1 pound)
	Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3	tablespoons freshly grated parmesan cheese
1	cup shredded arugula leaves
3	medium-size fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced
	Olive oil, for moistening the filling
3	slices pancetta
1	tablespoon olive oil
1½	cups Beef Broth ([>]) or Chicken Broth ([>])
1	tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1	tablespoon chopped fresh dill, or 1 teaspoon dried

1. One at a time, place the cutlets between 2 pieces of waxed paper or plastic wrap and pound with a mallet into a thin 7 × 10-inch rectangle, inch thick.
2. Sprinkle each cutlet with salt and pepper and then with 1 tablespoon cheese. Spread one third of the arugula over the cheese. Arrange one third of the mushroom slices down the center, going the short way. Moisten with olive oil and roll up the cutlets, enclosing the arugula and mushrooms, to make rolls about 7 inches long and 2 inches thick. Wrap each roll with a slice of pancetta around the middle.
3. Heat the 1 tablespoon olive oil in the pressure cooker over medium-high heat until beginning to smoke. Add the veal rolls and brown all around, about 2 minutes.
4. Pour the broth into the pot, lock on the lid, and bring to pressure over high heat, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 5 minutes to finish cooking.
5. With the steam vent pointed away from your face, gently release any remaining pressure. Lift the rolls onto a serving platter and set aside in a warm place. Bring the liquid in the pot to a boil and cook over high heat until thickened and saucy and reduced by half, about 5 minutes.
6. Stir in the lemon juice and dill. Pour over the rolls and serve right away.

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Mushroom Considerations

The veal bird recipe calls for shiitake mushrooms because those are the ones I use most often in recipes that call for fresh mushrooms. Portobellos are more commonly called for these days, but I reserve them to serve as a plate of their own, especially as breaded and fried whole caps, where their meaty brawn is showcased. If I need to use dried mushrooms, I choose porcinis over dried shiitakes for most recipes, unless the dish is of Asian essence.

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