In-House Clambake Steamed Under Seaweed

Culinary triumph and native dish both, the clambake has earned a place in any account of American seafood cookery. Except for some minor details, the ingredients are agreed upon: clams from the beach nearby, corn from the field nearby, likewise potatoes, freshly dug; all put together in a hot rock sand pit and covered with seaweed, then a wet-down canvas tarp, and finally another layer of hot rocks. Recipes and opinions vary about whether or not to include extras—a bit of lobster, sausage, or sweet potatoes. According to the great food writer Raymond Sokolov, at the most renowned of all clambakes, the Allen's Neck Clambake festival (near Dartmouth, Massachusetts) held in August every year since 1888, white fish and tripe are part of the composition, no two ways about it. Basically the technique is steaming. And this can be nicely done in the pressure cooker. If you can order fresh seaweed from an accommodating fish market, so much the better, but the husks from freshly shucked corn can substitute. So can fresh cuttings from a nearby pine or spruce tree.

 

Makes 4 servings

 

½	pound fresh seaweed (optional, see headnote)
4	small potatoes, such as baby Yukon gold or red or white creamer or 1 large sweet potato, or a mixture, cut into 1- to 1½-inch chunks or left whole if small
2	pounds clams, such as Manila or cherrystone, rinsed
2	small ears fresh corn, husks and silks removed, and cobs cut crosswise into 1-inch-thick rounds
¼	pound fresh garlic sausage, cut into 4 pieces
1	small live lobster (¾ pound) or 8 giant shrimp (optional)
1	loaf warm French bread, for serving
½	cup (1 stick) butter, melted, for serving

1. Set a trivet in the pressure cooker. Spread half of the seaweed on the trivet. Layer the remaining ingredients over the seaweed, starting with the potatoes, then the clams, the corn, the sausage, and the lobster, if using. Cover with the other half of the seaweed and pour in ½ cup water. Lock on the lid and bring to pressure over high heat, 6 to 8 minutes.
2. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 10 minutes to finish cooking.
3. With the steam vent pointed away from your face, gently release any remaining pressure and carefully remove the lid. Taking care to avoid escaping steam, lift off and discard the top layer of seaweed. Transfer the lobster, if included, to a platter, let cool enough to handle, and divide into parts.
4. Place the pot on the table and dish out from it, lifting the ingredients off the seaweed bed and making sure everyone has a bit of everything. Using tongs, remove the remaining bottom layer of seaweed and the trivet to a kitchen bowl. Ladle some of the juices over each serving. Serve the lobster, if using, on the side and accompany all with warm bread and melted butter.

 

Note: If you prefer a less informal way of serving, you can arrange the ingredients on a serving platter, discard the seaweed, and remove the trivet. Then, pour the juices over the dish and serve.