02.
Dubai To DC
In between the 20th and the 27th of December, I went on a USO tour that took me through the United Arab Emirates, Qatar, Djibouti and Bahrain. I will save those entries for another time. Onward!
 
12-28-06 Dubai UAE: 2130 hrs. Last night was the end of another USO tour that took me through the United Arab Emirates, Qatar, Djibouti and then to Bahrain, where I flew out of very early this morning. I arrived here at the massive, caterpillar-shaped Dubai Airport. The structure is a sight to behold. It looks like a massive insect larva. As we taxied in, I saw men on top of it working away as they are building, relentlessly adding onto the damn thing. I was met by the promoter reps for the show I am doing here tomorrow. We went immediately to the Iranian Consulate to see if my visa came through and it had. One of the promoter reps is Iranian and she was able to get around a lot of obstacles that would have stopped me cold or at least held me up for who knows how long. I am going to Tehran on new year’s day for almost a week. I have wanted to go there for a long time and hopefully I get there and see some things I have never seen before. Anyway, we went from there to this massive shopping mall, The Mall of the Emirates, where I had to sign things at the Virgin record store there and do a phone interview with someone at a radio station. After that I was deposited at this completely over the top hotel and here I am.
There is much to note about Dubai. From the seemingly endless amount of cranes across the skyline and the already countless tall buildings, it’s as if they wanted an entire modern city with cutting edge construction built virtually overnight. I have never seen so much construction in my life. Anything I write will sound like exaggeration but it’s really amazing. From my window I can see the tops of the buildings along this highway and most of them have heliports.
Dubai, it is said, will be the home of the world’s tallest building. I was told the number of floors is still a secret but the building is projected to be about a kilometer high. I am not exaggerating when I say it looks like a couple of Manhattan New York’s strung together building wise when you go down the highway here. I was told that this will be the playground of the world at some point. I am not putting Dubai down but for the most part, it’s not all that interesting a place to me so far. It’s endless stores, most of which can be found in America and the roads are jam packed with high-end cars and SUVs. I did find that crazy shopping mall interesting though. So many different nationalities there. It reminded me of the same people I see in Beverly Hills. Many shoppers looked overfed and bored, idly walking down the mall’s gleaming halls, looking with slight interest in store windows where they had probably already been in many times. Many were dressed in the overpriced finery they probably purchased at the mall. Many had a look that was a combination of boredom, sadness, and depression.
I like money because it protects me from having to live on the street and it allows me to go places and see things. One of the many downsides of money are places like the Mall of the Emirates and the debilitating degree of comfort it affords some people. It’s not for me to go all tangential on the evils of money because I don’t think it’s evil, it’s what you do with it that tells the tale. I am one of those “guns don’t kill” types. You leave a gun on a shelf, it just sits there. You leave me on a shelf, I hop off and do what I want. It seems that the people I saw were reeling from some kind of toxic shock, the money had suffocated and poisoned them. It’s that Beverly Hills thing where you see women driving around in their Jaguars with perfect hair, their faces so tight and strange, skinny noses, and not a damn thing to do with themselves all day.
I am happy to have done another USO tour and glad that I was able to bring a smile to some of the people I met. I am happy to spend Christmas day with the soldiers for as many years as the USO would like me to. At the end of the day, that’s what it’s all about, providing an opportunity for a soldier to do something else for a few minutes and also to show respect and support for their considerable efforts. There’s nothing to take credit for, nothing to brag about and nothing really to be proud of. It’s just something you do if you can. I saw some things on this last tour that were bad. I will write about them at some point.
2340 hrs. I don’t know how I am still awake. I just got back from walking down the street that lines the highway I am living next to. I like walking alone in cities at night. For as many years as I have left, I will walk alone at night in cities all over the world.
 
12-29-06 Dubai UAE: 1311 hrs. In my ridiculously bodacious room. I saw something interesting a moment ago. Across the street from the hotel is a Mosque. They were having prayer and there were many men kneeling in rows outside, perhaps it was to capacity inside, what do that call that, kneeling room only? Hey! Below my left side is the hotel swimming pool full of people laid out on the deck chairs. I could see both pool and Mosque at once but couldn’t get it all in my camera lens.
Dubai is all about the business. Nothing will get in the way of business. Whatever it takes to get a country where its leaders think it should be justifies any measures the leadership takes to get there. You see all those cars going down your street? That’s business. You think you’re going to change something with your fucking petition? Your protest march? This business will not stop until the last drop of oil is used up, the blood that is spilled on the way is just part of the price of doing business. That’s all there is to it. If there is money to be made, someone will go after it. Another war will always start after the last one is done because it’s good for business. I think it’s a waste of time to wonder who knew what when. You know all you need to know at this very moment. It’s business. It’s always business. To think that any war in the last few centuries was started for any other reason is just being naïve.
On many of the bases I was at recently, I saw that KBR (Kellogg Brown and Root) just does shit to spend money. When they spend it, they get to keep some. When they spend our tax dollars, they make money. The more they spend the more they make so it’s in their best interest to keep making things and spending money. They are one of the largest non-union companies in the world after all, they have to keep everyone there busy busy busy! At Camp Le Monier in Djibouti, where I spent Christmas, the dining facility was all decked out in Christmas stuff. I kept one of the KBR Christmas cards that was on the table I was sitting at as a souvenir. Here’s what the card said:
Christmas is a time we gather with family and friends to celebrate our blessings and share gifts. This year, we celebrate with our extended family at Camp Lemonier as we provide for the security of our family and friends at home. It is an honor and privilege to serve our country and support the beliefs and values we all hold so deeply in our hearts. We are blessed to represent a nation that provides us with freedom and security. Your efforts in the Horn of Africa promoting peace and stability are making a significant impact by protecting our freedom and promoting freedom for this region.
As we celebrate this Christmas, reflect on the sacrifices that you and others are making to preserve our way of life. Especially remember those who have made the ultimate sacrifice in support of their nation. I personally want to take this opportunity to thank you for your hard work, commitment and devotion to duty while serving at Camp Lemonier. Special thanks as well to your families for their support as you sacrifice time away to defend the nation that we all love so dearly.
There’s no signature so I don’t know who the “I” is in the card’s greeting. My favorite part is from the menu on the back of the card. Among the many delights the soldiers were served was “candid yamb.” I thought they were great. So is that what these people are doing all the way out there? If that’s what someone thinks, you have to wonder what else they could be talked into. It’s such a trite and insulting load.
All the Christmas stuff will get pulled down eventually, if it’s not down already. Now, do you think they will store all that stuff the way you put the ornaments back in the closet for next year, or do you think they will toss it all out and re-order it all next Christmas? The only bad thing that will happen to KBR is peace and they don’t have to worry too much about that. It’s a machine that seems to have no off switch. There is one but the people with access to it aren’t making a move. Before they served up the feast, Road Manager Mike took me to a building next to the dining facility that had these ginger bread houses for decoration/dessert. They were soon going to be moved into the dining hall. They were covered with flies. We took a few pictures and moved out. The truth is that the KBR people are ghouls, fucking monsters.
 
12-30-06 Dubai UAE: 1310 hrs. Saddam was executed a few hours ago. A new low. I know someone would read that and think that I am soft or weak-willed, I don’t care to think what else but it doesn’t matter to me. It’s just more pathetic, barbaric bullshit. Does anyone feel that much better about things now that Saddam Hussein is dead? How about that “trial”? That was a good one. When is Rumsfeld’s fucking trial?
2137 hrs. I have been out for several hours but have been thinking about the Saddam thing on and off all day and at this late hour with the jet lag and my levels of nervousness and exhaustion, the whole thing just depresses me. I don’t know why it’s getting to me so much. Perhaps it’s just that the whole thing is so obscene and brutal and idiotic. I work the argument in my head as I write this. “What Saddam did to all those people—now that was obscene and brutal.” I know, I know. I just can’t get past the idea that this would have been such a great opportunity for the Shia population of Iraq to show the Sunnis, Kurds, and the world that they really wanted peace and forward movement by just putting this piece of shit behind bars for the rest of his life. They had their number one enemy and oppressor in their grip and they could have spared his life and as hard as that would have been it would have been such a great step forward. As far as I’m concerned, the Shia are no better than Saddam now. I don’t know for sure but isn’t it possible that sparing Saddam could have perhaps kept some people from getting killed in the resulting fallout from the execution? Isn’t it time for something else? That’s all I’m saying. I have not seen any news but I imagine from his prop ranch, Bush said something about how the Iraqi people wanted justice and that Saddam was brought to justication and the justice was served and that the Iraqi people stood unified for justicization and the voice of freedom, not to mention the voice of justisciousness was heard on this day all over this post 9-11 world. Or something. Great.
2301 hrs. Just got off the phone from an interview from Tel Aviv. Today I did something out of the ordinary and it ended up being really cool. I spent some time with one of the people who put on the show last night. I needed to get some currency changed for Iran and she said she would help with that and she said that if I wanted to we could drive around some and see the sights. I said ok. She took me to the older part of the city and we walked all over. It’s nothing remotely like where I am staying now. It is very beautiful, very old. There are boats that take you across the river to the other side. They go back and forth constantly, packed with people. You just hop aboard and hold on for dear life. When we pulled in, several boats arrived at the same time and they all slammed into each other and it was a miracle that no one fell in the water but everyone seemed used to it and just laughed about it. After that we went to an interesting neighborhood that seemed to be made up primarily of people from India and got the money sorted. Then we went to her friend’s house who made us some great food and we stayed there for some time talking about Dubai and everything else. Her friend knew a lot about the history of the place. They were going to a Jazz club later and asked if I wanted to go but I started fading and wanted to be on my own so I passed. She just dropped me off here. It was a great afternoon and evening. She is very smart, strong and interesting. She is from Italy but has been living all over the world. She went to college in America and is now living out here. I love that kind of adventurous spirit. I am too attached to things to live like that. I think I am free until I hear a story like hers and then I realize how hooked up to the machine I really am.
It was great to spend time with a female. I don’t do that very often. I spend time at the office with the gals there but thinking about it, I really don’t spend time with any women at all. Very infrequently, I see a woman I went out with about 20 years ago, she brings her young boy over to the office when she’s in the neighborhood and we hang out a little. The kid is fantastic and he and I have a good time. Past that though, I really don’t have any contact with females except in passing. I like women but don’t go out of my way to meet them. I don’t have anything to say really. I did meet an amazing woman this year, Shirin Neshat, she is an Iranian photographer and activist. She is incredible and I am very glad to have met her. The woman I was with today, she was very generous with her time and it was good hanging out with her. I am definitely ready to get out of Dubai. I have nothing against the place but I have been here for enough days and am ready for the next destination, which I think is going to be quite interesting.
I am liking being alone in this room. I have some tunes going and some cold coffee and things are pretty good. I have a very large file of songs I put together on the iPod and it’s playing away. I don’t remember when I made the file so all the songs that are coming out are one surprise after another: Chicago, The Clash, Barry White, Alan Vega, it’s great.
Have you ever seen that situation where a guy really wants to be with a female and he’s trying to get it going and she only sees him as a friend and has no interest in him past that? It’s painful to be the guy putting yourself through it because you know there’s no chance as you’re doing it but it’s almost more painful to watch. I saw it recently. I really wanted to say out loud, “Pal, it’s never going to happen! You know it, too. Stop doing this to yourself.” Anything she said, he would use it as an opportunity to touch her arm, rub her back and act as if what she said was really important when she was just saying something trivial. I could tell that she was getting uncomfortable and the guy was just going for it anyway. I didn’t know either of them but all the same, it was hard to watch. I remember doing shit like that years ago when I was alive and it makes me cringe just thinking about it. Things are much better now.
 
12-31-06 Dubai UAE: 0116 hrs. Night off over. Have to do better today. I want to be done with people early and be alone and on my own by the afternoon. Have to do some thinking. People cause me pain. Fuck it. Sick of sorrow and agony. Want silence.
Next week will be something, right? Basically, work hard next week and then cool out in Jordan for 48 hrs. I am almost there. I can do it. I saw a woman today, she looked beautiful in profile. I can’t see myself with anyone though. I think about it now and then but it just strikes me as alien. Touch a stranger with a stranger’s hands. Mine. Dead. 0120 hrs.
Late: A little after midnight. I went to a New Years Eve gathering with some people from the American Consulate here that I met the other day while on the USO tour. They have lived all over the world and have had amazing lives. Pretty cool to go from the hotel to the house in a bulletproof car. We talked about all kinds of things at dinner and at one point I asked them if there was one country they would not want to go back to and they all said Pakistan. That made me really interested in going there. They said that the place is very unstable and a dangerous situation is a definite possibility. I’ll get there at some point. I have to get some sleep.
 
01-01-07 Dubai UAE: 0628 hrs. At the airport, which even at this hour is packed with people. The duty free area, which seems to stretch the entirety of the airport, is much like that Mall of the Emirates. Some people will wear anything. Those who can’t fit into designer jeans don’t allow that to stop them from pushing the denim, a remarkably strong fabric, to its very limits. Hey, it’s fashion and seeing that all the clothing I have with me has a total worth of less than fifty bucks, I am not in a position to make comment.
In about 40 minutes I board a flight for Tehran, Iran. If everything goes to plan, I will be there for five days. Why Iran? A lot of reasons.
I became curious about Iran after going to school with some Iranian boarding students many years ago. When I met Shirin Neshat, the great Iranian artist, she told me that I would really like the city and that got me interested in going even more. The biggest reason is that Bush and all his cowards hate the place so much. Now I have to go. For Wolfowitz, Cheney, Kristol, Bolton and all those little bitches who work so hard to demonize Iran, this trip is for you. I know enough not to believe what they say and so I am going. I want to meet as many people there as I can. I want to ask them what they think of America, Bush, Ahmadinejad, Iraq, Saddam Hussein, Osama bin Laden, Israel and anything else that comes to mind. I never see anything on the news from an Iranian point of view. I wonder if there’s a reason for that? So, all of the above is basically the reason I am going.
I have some shows coming up in about a week and half in Israel. Weeks ago, I looked at the calendar and wondered what I could do with the time between the Dubai show and the show in Jerusalem. I figured it was time to try and go to Iran. I use the word try because I had a feeling it wouldn’t be easy and I was right. It was weeks of management and his very capable assistant going back and forth with the embassy and getting different stories that seemed to contradict each other at every turn. As my 12-19-06 evac came closer, the embassy said that there wasn’t enough time and the only chance to get a visa now would be in Dubai. So, for several days my travel plans were hanging in the wind. I had no back up plan if the Iranian visa didn’t come through. I guess I could have gone to Tel Aviv early and just waited it out. I am glad it all came together, even if it was at the last minute. For the last several days I have been going back and forth with Shirin and others, lining up some contacts in Tehran. Hopefully today I will be meeting up with a friend of Shirin’s who will show me around.
This is interesting, for my stay in Iran, I am required to have a tour guide to show me around. I have to pay for his hotel, 50 Euros a day and I have to pay for his meals as well. This will be a costly trip but if this is the only way to see Iran, that’s that. 0806 hrs.
1454 hrs. Now in Tehran, Iran. I made it. In my room. This hotel reminds me of the cheap hotels I’ve occupied in Russia. When I checked in a couple of hours ago, the man behind the counter asked if I would like the quiet side of the building that looks out on the park or the one that has a view of the mountains and the street. I took the street side and while I don’t know what I’m missing as yet, I like the choice I have made. The view of the street is cool, the traffic is relentless. It’s a never ending roar of car horns, engines and the occasional siren.
For the last couple of hours, I have been passed out on my small bed. I really needed it. I didn’t get much sleep last night. I am supposed to get a call from a woman soon. I talked to her earlier today. She is a friend of Shirin’s and called me when I arrived at the hotel and we agreed to talk around 1500 hrs. Hopefully, I can get together with her later on and hear what she has to say. If I can’t, I will walk around here as long as I can and then come back to the room.
Something interesting happened when I arrived at the airport. After I had cleared immigration and was walking to the baggage carousel, a uniformed man asked to see my passport. He told me to have a seat and walked away. I started writing in my journal: 1035 hrs. Tehran Iran Khomeini Airport. Everyone gets to go to baggage claim but me. The nice men have taken my passport and politely asked me to have a seat. I have been here for awhile. Everyone is walking past me and staring. As the man in the glass booth checked out my passport, he would look up at me with an expression that seemed to say, “Why you’re coming here is beyond me.” This is an indicator that it’s going to be an interesting trip if I can get past this next hurdle.
Then another man walked up, thanked me and gave me my passport back. I was about to leave and he asked to see it again. He took it for another minute and then gave it back and I was done. I went down the stairs to the baggage claim area which was largely empty now since everyone had gotten their belongings and departed. I looked through the glass partition to see if I could see any indication of someone waiting for me. A man caught my eye and waved. I nodded and then saw my bag on the belt. I got the bag and then went through the nothing to declare side and presented my passport to the guard. He took it in his hand and gave it back without opening it and waved me through.
I met up with the man who had waved at me. His name is Hamid, he was the one who finessed the visa. He seems like a good guy. We got in his car and took off towards the city.
Our conversation was interesting. He told me he had checked me out on the internet and that I was not to tell the tour guide, who would be with me for the duration of my stay, anything about what I did. I asked him what the problem was with what I did. He said that there would be a lot of static if the tour guide found out I had written books, done music, was on American television, etc. Hamid told me that the occupation he had assigned me on the visa was that of “manager” and if the tour guide asked me about that, I was to just make something up. Then he asked me if I knew anyone here and I told him that I had names and phone numbers that an Iranian person in America had given me and I was supposed to meet up with them during the week. He instructed me to not tell the tour guide anything of this and as far as the tour guide was concerned, I knew no one in Tehran. He went on to tell me that there was a good chance I could be followed to any of the addresses I went to and all the people there would be interviewed and he would also get hassled. It is clear to me that there’s a lot of problems with doing what you want here. I asked Hamid what would happen if the tour guide decided to look me up on the internet and he said that he was hoping that wouldn’t happen because if it did, it would be a very big hassle for the both of us.
We stopped for gas and Hamid filled his tank and showed me how cheap gasoline was in Iran. He said that gasoline has been subsidized by the government and was very cheap and this was going to deplete the country’s supplies.
2200 hrs. Just got back to my room. I don’t think I can capture with words all the things I saw, heard and felt today. I will try. Simin came to pick me up at the hotel at 1500 hrs. Simin is a friend of Shirin’s who very generously offered to show me around. We got in a taxi and went to the north of the city to the neighborhood she grew up in. We went to the Tajrish neighborhood and went to the local Bazaar that resembled the souks I was in the day before in Dubai. We walked down a series of semi-open air hallways lined with small stalls selling everything from fish to gold. The merchants were waving their wares and the place was crowded and in constant motion. I don’t think you could ever get bored walking through this place. Simin has been coming here since she was a child and says that most of it has changed and then pointed to an old marble floor of one of the stores and said that was part of the original construction. It was interesting to hear her speak of how so much of it had changed and how she missed the way it used to be because it reminded me of my old neighborhood and how it has changed over the years. I guess I also liked hearing someone talk about how they missed their old neighborhood because I miss mine although I don’t like to allow myself to miss things because it gets in my way but all the same, I do miss my old neighborhood, sometimes even when I’m in it. It was nice to hear her speak about this place as being so familiar to her because to me it was so strange and exotic.
One of the things that made our walk interesting was that Simin is a very, I mean very, much loved actress here. People were parking their cars to get out and meet her. Every other minute people were saying hello to her and thanking her and taking her picture. At one point, we stood in line to get some bread that she wanted me to try. The people in line recognized her and put her at the front of the line and the baker brought out this large, flat piece of bread which he gave her and refused her money even though she tried to pay a few times. The bread resembles nan bread and is very good. I saw people folding it like a newspaper and putting it under their arm. It was obvious that she is very famous and I asked her about that and she gave me the aw shucks scenario. Then we passed a poster for a new film and there she was. I pointed to it and said, “That’s you!” Again she was very self effacing about it while every third person who saw her was flipping out. I said, “You’re like Ozzy Osbourne!” and she asked, “Who’s that?” I am definitely not in Ohio.
We came back to the place where we had entered the market which is a convergence of streets ending up in a traffic circle that makes for complete vehicular chaos. The motorists seem to have some kind of system that looks like a series of orchestrated near-misses. As we walked up to the island in the middle, the sun was setting over the buildings and it was an incredible view that made us both stop simultaneously to take it in. This part of town is backed up against a wall of towering snow covered mountains. It was one hell of a view to take in. I live for these moments. I don’t know how the rest of this trip will go but that walk with Simin and the sunset will make the whole trip worth it even if nothing else good comes of it. It’s these moments that I travel the world for. When they happen, I know I am doing the right thing. This is what it’s all about. These are the moments that make your life your own. There’s a lot of servitude in life and a lot of it I don’t mind but it takes a lot of time and if that’s all you do, then that’s all you are.
Simin made a phone call and her son Nariman came and picked us up and took us to Shirin’s sister’s house to visit. Shirin’s sister is great. She welcomed us into her home and made us coffee and we sat at her table and talked for some time. Nariman and I talked about documentaries and film and music. He travels a lot so he is very knowledgeable about things happening outside Iran. At one point, Shirin called from America and she and I spoke briefly. She was very happy that I was at her sister’s house and told me she hasn’t been to Iran in 8 years and misses it very much.
From there, Simin, Nariman and I went to their place down the road. In their living room, I saw many awards given to Simin. She has three of the Iranian version of the Oscar, a life time achievement award and all kinds of awards from Europe. I met her husband who was really cool and we all sat around the table and talked for quite some time.
After awhile, Nariman asked me if I wanted to go out and see some of the city and get some food. We took off in his car. He asked me where I wanted to go and I asked him to take me to where all the youths hang out. We went to a small shopping mall and what a surprise, the young folks seem to do all the same things you see youngsters do anywhere else. They slouch and are so beautifully bored you can’t stand it. I enjoyed that time of life when you had so much youth in such great supply you almost didn’t know what to do with it. We went to a food court and ate some really mediocre chow that I knew was going to pummel me later but I was hungry so I went for it anyway. We talked a lot about music, Nariman is very curious about it and said that they don’t get a great deal of new music in Iran and do a lot of file swapping. After awhile, we went down to the street and he fixed me up with a taxi and explained to the man where I was going and we went our separate ways. Now I am back in my small and ancient smelling room. It was a great first day. In the morning I meet up with my tour guide, not really looking forward to that but it will at least be interesting.
 
01-02-07 Tehran Iran: 2240 hrs. Today was long but really great. I met my tour guide. He’s a very nice young man with confusing English and some of the worst breath ever. We went to one of the Shah’s very boring palaces and checked it out. I can’t help it, this kind of thing has always bored me. I am good in a museum for a little while and then I have to go. Same thing with a palace of any kind. Whenever I am in one, all I can think of is how it could be leveled and why any population allows someone to live in one on their dime.
The best part of the day started when I shook off tour guide boy, who from here on will be known as The Shadow, and went out on my own. We got back to the hotel around 1300 hrs. and I was able to convince The Shadow that I was really tired and had to go to my room for the next 21 hours until we met again. I don’t know if he bought it or not. I waited in my room for awhile and then went to the lobby and looked for him there and in the parking lot. When I was sure he had left, I went walking all over the place. The sun was bright and it was cold as hell but I had a great time. I went into stores and talked to men. I didn’t meet any women but I talked to men on the street and in shops, some gave me their card and asked me to come by their shop to check out their wares. I went into one shop and everyone just stared at me and finally I just said out loud, “I imagine I must appear to you as a rare import item!” and then a man came over very quickly as if he was apologizing for everyone in the shop staring and shook my hand and asked me where I was from. I told him my name and said I was American. He said, “Ah, you are England.” I thought it was interesting that he thought I was a country but I repeated that I was American. Then he said, “You are from Canada!” I figured he was trying to give me an out and I told him that I appreciated that but I was going to stick to the whole I’m from America thing. He laughed and we shook hands again and he introduced me to a few of his friends. They asked me who I was here with and when I told them that I was here on my own and that the purpose of my visit was to meet as many Iranian people as possible and see as much of the city as I could, they seemed impressed and were all extremely friendly. Actually, that’s the way everyone I have met has been to me so far.
Later on, I took a taxi to Shirin’s sister’s house and ate dinner and hung out with her friends and family. It was a great time. The food was really great and I ate caviar that I found to be very good. I have tried it before and never liked it. I told them that when it was offered to me but they insisted that this was Persian caviar and much better than all others so I checked it out. I liked it, perhaps it was because I was very hungry. We spent a good deal of the time talking at the dinner table and I asked them a lot of questions and the answers I got were fascinating. I asked them what was up with their boy Mahmoud Ahmadinejad and one of them shot back, “What’s up with your boy?!” and they all roared with laughter. I asked them if any of them voted for him and they all said no and added that he was basically an idiot. Someone said that it was too bad that Bush and Ahmadinejad don’t get along as they are so much alike and they all started laughing again. I asked them what they thought of America’s invasion and occupation of Iraq. One of them said that they fought Iraq for 8 years and many of their friends were dead. Then I asked them what they thought of America and almost all of them started talking at once about how much they loved America and where they had visited or went to school and how much they loved Chicago and Seattle, etc. I asked them what they thought of Bush and they all got pretty quiet and serious and said they were afraid of what he might decide to do to Iran. If I was made to fear another country by their rhetoric or policies, my anger would be hard to contain and it would be hard for me to see around it to be calm enough to be rational or civil. You want to fuckin’ kill me? I’ll just kill you first. I would be first out the door for that. If I was in Iran and heard the bullshit John Bolton was spewing, he would be number one on my shit list. I bet it would be almost impossible for an Israeli to stand by when Ahmadinejad says he wants to wipe Israel off the map. I asked them if any of them wanted to wipe out Israel and they all looked at me like I was crazy and said all they want is peace. Basically, all this intimidation is just bullshit and goes nowhere good. All this stuff is coming from some true motivation. Ahmadinejad and his fans have a point of view they obviously believe in. I would rather take the time to understand it so I can disagree with a greater degree of understanding. All the information is there, you just have to want to know. I am sick of the denial and the lack of critical thinking in America. It makes us look so fucking stupid as the rest of the world laughs and prepares for battle. Look at Bush, you couldn’t make that guy read no matter what you did. So far, this new century is a failure, or perhaps it hasn’t started yet. Tonight was great and I am so glad I am here.
 
01-03-07 Tehran Iran: 2319 hrs. In my room, listening to Joy Division’s BBC Recordings. It’s perfect room music. I went out with Hamid and The Shadow earlier today. We went to the palace of one of the Shahs. It was very beautiful but thankfully the visit was over quickly. I don’t have much stamina for the tour type stuff. I don’t know what it is, I get bored really fast and can’t tune in and listen to what is being said when in a gallery or wherever. I feel like I am 8 years old again and I just want to walk quickly through the place and get it over with. The Shadow is a nice enough guy. His English isn’t very good and it is work getting through the hours with him. I won’t be able to take this guy for longer than a couple of hours at a time.
What made today interesting is that The Shadow asked me a lot of questions. He was nonstop. He started by asking me what I did for a living. I told him I was a manager, which is really a lame thing to say. It’s like saying, “I’m an employee.” I was hoping The Shadow would not want to know more but he did. I told him I managed writers who are trying to get published and read their work and placed them at publishing houses. I told him I was always looking for the next Tom Clancy. I don’t think he knew who that was and that shut him up for a few minutes but soon, he was back at me again. I wondered if he had looked me up on the internet and knew a few things. He never asked me any details about anything I did or anything of a political nature. After about ten minutes of this, I was starting to wonder if he was just asking me questions he already knew the answers to as all good inquisitors do but then he started asking me about how to get a permit to open a night club. One thing he seemed very curious about, or at least seemed interested in getting a satisfactory answer out of me, was about clubs in America. “Many men are members of special clubs in America, aren’t they? Are you a member of one of these clubs?” Instead of asking him what the fuck he was talking about, which would be answering a question with a question, only leading to more questions, I replied with answers I hoped would tangle him up in useless information and strain the limits of his English. I went into a spiel about how there were many clubs in America for people who liked dogs and television shows and all kinds of other interests and while I wasn’t a member of any clubs, I thought they were so very nice. That seemed to cool him out for awhile but then he came back around again to the club questions, basically asking them over again. I think he was trying to get me to say something, to admit to something, I can’t be sure though. It did make me want to grab his trachea between my thumb and index finger though. Eventually, he stopped.
We got back to the hotel in the early afternoon and I made plans with The Shadow to see a couple of museums near the hotel in the morning. The Shadow and Hamid departed and I went to my room. A few minutes later, Hamid called me down to the lobby saying he needed to talk to me. I went down and he was sitting at a table and motioned for me to come over. He told me that The Shadow had called his boss and mentioned that Hamid had been coming along with us on the sightseeing and basically running a block between myself and him. The Shadow’s boss called Hamid about it and Hamid explained that the Shadow’s English wasn’t up to par and he didn’t want his client to not get all the proper information while seeing the sights. Hamid also explained that I would have to move carefully when I was on my own now because they were starting to check me out and do some research on me and it might make it a little tricky for us. That’s when he explained that if I had listed that I was involved in film, writing or music on the visa that I might not have been given the go ahead to enter the country. He also added that The Shadow calling in about Hamid being along on the day trips prompted the visa people to shut down on permits for a 24 hour period thus forcing a group of Americans in Istanbul, Turkey waiting to get their visas approved to endure a minimum 24 hour delay. I single-handedly shut down immigration into Iran! Hamid said I was very lucky to get into Iran and urged me to be very low key when I came and went from the hotel as they were now making note of when I was coming and going. So, things are getting interesting. We’ll see what The Shadow has to say for himself tomorrow when we meet at 1100 hrs. Now all I want to do is pound this fuckin’ guy on sight. That would be so great. “Good morning, Mr. Henry, how was your...” Wham!
I went out for a walk tonight. I made a left out of the hotel and walked for quite some time. It was really cold out and that made it perfect. The traffic was down quite a bit and it was fairly quiet and there weren’t many people out. I passed the Museum of Contemporary Art and noticed there was a park. I walked through it for awhile and sat near a fountain and watched people walk by. At the bottom of the park, near the fountain, there are stores and small coffee places. I walked around them and looked at the people inside. I saw a young man and woman seated in a corner. She had her mandatory scarf on and their heads were very close together. For a moment, I thought I was in France. The place was dimly lit with only a small neon sign over the door. I walked past the different kiosks and shops and back onto the street. I saw three men standing next to a small metal can with a fire burning in it. They were drinking from steaming cups of tea and listening to a small portable radio that one of them was holding in his hand. I saw two homeless men sitting amongst bags of garbage talking to each other and I wondered how they were going to get through the night.
It’s at times like this that I am happy to be alive and alone. Walking streets in cities at night all over the world, that’s what I do. It’s one of the best things I have found to do with my remaining time. In a way, it’s nothing, just walking down a street somewhere but to me it’s ultimate freedom and a state of perfection that is like nothing else I have ever experienced. I am alone on the streets of Tehran Iran walking around in the winter. It feels epic to me.
 
01-04-07 Tehran Iran: 1549 hrs. In my room. The Shadow and I went out to the Carpet Museum today and it was great. It is basically a building with a lot of rare carpets in it. The Shadow is actually a very nice guy and he did his best to tell me all he could about the carpets. I learned a lot about different kinds of carpets from different times, etc. It was cool but I only have so much time for the history of Iranian carpets dispensed from someone who struggles with the English language worse than the current American president. It was agonizing waiting for The Shadow to get through sentences. He is a professional tour guide but his English is by the book and it lacks context. Regardless, The Shadow is easy to like and he didn’t ask any questions about what I do this time. He told me that his brother e-mailed him and told him to tell me Merry Christmas. It came out in Shadow speak, “My brother says to you Merry Christmas on earth to you and your blessed family but not in Iran.” I asked him if he meant that in Iran, there is no Christmas holiday. He said, “Not to any extent, no.” The Shadow also has this maddening habit of saying, “Really?” whenever I tell him of my plans. I told him that now that we had finished our daily sightseeing, I was going to back to my room. “Really? We will go have the lunch now. I am at your service.” I tell him that I appreciate that but I am not hungry and am happy to go to my room now. “Really? After lunch, we can go see a handicraft shop where you can buy carpets and things of Iran.” Finally I managed to convince him that we will get together again in the morning for the last of our sightseeing and that I will see him then. Then The Shadow said, “Then I will see you tomorrow morning.” And then, his face brightening, he said, “Check you later!” and I said, “Check you later!” right back to him and got on the elevator. He seems like an alright guy besides being a spy motherfucker.
That part of the day finished, I settled into the lamer part of the day. I am battling against a pretty heavy dose of depression at the moment. I am not trying to be cosmic or spiritual in any way because I detest the concept of spirituality or anything having to do with the stars, the Zodiac, planets in houses, etc. but that being said, I notice that without fail, the worst bouts of depression hit me on the two days before the full moon. On those days, I want nothing more than lethal injection, sleep that kills, and any possible way not to be. As I sit here right now, I don’t want to go anywhere. I have a bag of granola and some water and that is all the food I need. I have not eaten for about 24 hours now and have no appetite. I have been invited to dinner by Shirin’s friend and of course I am going. I could never turn down such kindness, just out of respect alone, so I am going but it will be difficult. All I want to do now is wait for dark and go out walking for a very long time and then come back to this room and sit in it. I hate this aspect of my fucked up mind. I hate that feeling of torpitude. It overpowers me sometimes. There are times I can beat it and there are times I cannot. I disgust myself when I am like this. Sometimes when it hits me, all I can do is wait it out or walk it out, basically just endure it. The events of the last several days have stuck with me and compounded the effect. I feel like I am wading through mud. I don’t know why but the Saddam execution is very depressing to me. Humans paint every available surface with so much fucking death and misery, it’s amazing that humans survive humanity. Saddam was executed in a sanctioned and fairly orderly manner. The more orderly it is, the more obscene it is to me. I think that’s the part of the Death SentenceⰊ that I hate the most. The fact that they build machines to kill with efficiency. Gas chambers, electric chairs, lethal injection rooms, etc. Someone has to sit there and come up with this stuff and run it by some other people who make comments and adjustments for optimum results. The art of hanging is an exercise in physics. Too much drop and the head can come off. Too little and the condemned can stay alive for quite awhile. Meanwhile, the number of deaths in Iraq just keeps increasing. As long as the American Forces are there, they will keep getting catastrophically injured and killed. The president says that American forces will stay there until the job is done and that American Forces will stand down when Iraqi forces stand up. Has anyone pointed out that all the American Forces members in Iraq completed their training in a matter of weeks? That you can take a young, able-bodied American male off the street and train him to be Army Infantry in weeks, not years? I am not saying that it’s easy and men and women in the Army are simple but it’s hard to believe that after more than three years there’s still no Iraqi Army that is effective. The only answer is that they don’t want to do it. It’s not like they cannot be trained. Besides that, no one seems to mention that Saddam had hundreds of thousands of men trained to fight. Paul Bremer fired them in his “Debaathification” process so he could open Iraq up for business. The excuses of the Bush regime hold no water now. They just don’t. The people who defend the president and this war at this point are just pathetic. Could it be that it is next to impossible to train up Shia men to have them potentially defend Sunni from other Shia? That makes some sense to me. The neocons got what they wanted and they let thousands of good Americans bleed out for it.
I read a report several days ago that Senator Kerry went to Iraq and was ignored by the soldiers there. No one spoke to him. He ate alone and worked out alone, but Bill O’Reilly shows up and the line to meet him goes out the door. Whatever. I hate using that word but in this case, it’s the only thing I can think of. O’Reilly’s your guy? Fine. A non-Vet, bullshit artist is your guy? Perhaps I should reconsider all the time I spend out there with the Military. Perhaps it’s just better to leave them to the O’Reilly’s of America and call it a day. That thought has been going through my mind a lot over the last few days. If soldiers feel that people at Fox News have the story straight, then perhaps I am just wasting everyone’s time with these visits, with this concern and all this sadness that this conflict brings up. Is it better to just leave them to it as they say? This is what has been bugging me for the last several days.
I had a picture on my computer of a female I have kept in touch with sporadically. Occasionally I look at the picture. She has a nice face. I threw it out today. I am trying to kill off everything that makes me want to look at a picture of a female. I would rather kill want than to act on it when it comes to personal relationships. I have it in my head that I cannot experience life the way I want to if I am close to a woman. It’s like you can go out as far as you want but it’s not really any great distance because you have this tether cord of security that is there for you to pull yourself back to safety with. I don’t understand how I can get to the real thing if I know there is a warm embrace waiting for me. Isn’t that cheating somehow? I guess I have it in my mind that having a relationship with a woman is a safety net. It’s a net that breaks your fall but can also ensnare you. At this point, the bad parts outweigh the good. Fuck it.
 
01-05-07 Tehran Iran: ?? hrs. The votes are in. The Shadow is a douche bag after all. Hours ago, I was out with Hamid and The Shadow. At one point, I made a call on Hamid’s phone to Simin’s son to arrange a time to pick up my iPod, as I had lent it to him so he could check out some music. As I was dialing the number, The Shadow kept offering me his phone to use. I didn’t get it at first but I figured it out a few seconds later. He wanted to get the number I was calling. The Shadow tried to look at the paper I had the number written on. I know I have to be cool to the guy but I nearly lost it at that moment and as the phone was ringing I started walking toward him asking him what his problem was. He backed off and then the call went through and I walked away to talk without him hearing me. Later, Hamid told me that The Shadow asked for the number that I had dialed and Hamid told him he deleted it, which he did immediately. When Hamid told me that, we were standing in the lobby and The Shadow was standing in the parking lot. I wanted to go out there and shake his ass up but had to restrain myself.
1503 hrs. Waiting for Hamid in the lobby. He had to shake The Shadow and said it might take a while. He told me to meet him here in half an hour. That was about 40+ minutes ago. I hope he’s ok. The Shadow’s body language was different today. He stood very close to me and conducted himself strangely, like he was following instructions. It could be me being paranoid but I think I’m right about this.
 
01-06-07 Tehran Iran: 0042 hrs. Hamid has called twice to tell me he is having car trouble and will be here soon. It’s a 30+ mile drive to the airport in a car that has chosen this time to have problems. Some might say that this does not bode well but I say this is what travel is all about and you just have to be as cool as you can for as long as you can.
There was a strange incident a little earlier that is at least interesting and adding to the tension of the moment. About an hour ago I was eating dinner with Hamid and his wife. Her brother called to tell her that I was on television in a video or something and he wanted to talk to me. She handed the phone to me and I said hello to the guy and passed the phone back. Hamid was distressed about this. I asked him why. He said that if The Shadow had seen me on screen it would make things complicated. He asked if I would mind getting to the airport early and waiting it out. He thought it would be good to get me checked in and squared away sooner than later. I said sure. He dropped me off awhile ago and was supposed to come back soon but then the car trouble started. I think if The Shadow had seen me on TV we would know by now but it will be good to get wheels up and out of here. It does make these last few hours here a little tense but I reckon I will get out without any problems.
Management just called and filled me in on my hotel information for later today in Jordan as well as my press schedule for Israel and Canada. Both places have me hopping. The Canadians have asked that I do a five days of journal entries about this trip for a Monday through Friday daily story in one of their newspapers. I said yes to that one because it will force me to write. They also asked me, while I was in Toronto, if I would do some man-on-the-street interviews in the same vein as Jay Leno. Well, no. It’s amazing to me that I am in Tehran and I am getting a call from Management.
For the next 48 hours I have nothing scheduled so I will spend it in Jordan and see what happens. I don’t really know anything about the country. It was either there or a two days in Istanbul, Turkey the land of luggage loss. I have been there a few times already so I figured I would give Jordan a shot instead. I could have gone straight through to Tel Aviv but I will be there for days anyway so I reckoned it would be better to mix it up a little.
0301 hrs. At the airport, waiting for the gate to open. Things at this airport move slowly and you have to be patient. A few minutes ago, a young white male was walking towards me as I walked towards the gate. I saw him look at me. I started walking around him, hopefully to convey that I didn’t want to make contact. Didn’t work. “Are you Henry Rollins?” I nod. “What are you doing in Iran?” It’s a fair question but it kind of ruins the whole adventure and mystery of the trip, doesn’t it? It’s just another airport now. I asked him, “What are you doing in Iran?” I have had enough of people asking me what and why here. He told me he was an American, apologized for bothering me and moved on. I don’t know what he’s sorry about but why can’t people leave motherfuckers alone? I am sure I am an asshole in his book. I respect him for being all the way out here on his own though, that’s really cool.
I am looking forward to getting on the plane and getting an hour of sleep. Iran, for the most part, was worth the trip. The people were great, even The Shadow was pretty cool. He told Hamid that I was crazy. I like that. May The Shadow one day meet the woman of his dreams, master the English language, improve his dental hygiene, and bring spies like me to justice. I think it would be great to come back here some time and see a different part of Iran, to get out of the city and go to Esfahan or Tabriz. I am glad I made this trip.
0819 hrs. On another plane out of Dubai, headed towards Jordan. I don’t know what I’ll do when I get there. Definitely need some sleep. The plane is sold out, the flight is long, the children are loud, the sun is bright and I don’t know how much better things could get.
2117 hrs. Amman Jordan. Bag gone. Hoping it makes an appearance tomorrow. The thing that ticks me off the most is not having a good cup of coffee on the night off. I always bring my own but I won’t be having any of it tonight. I had some at the hotel restaurant tonight and it wasn’t all that bad but it wasn’t nearly as good as what I had in my bag.
I was looking forward to this night off being a little better. I am getting some work done and getting left alone so that’s cool. Will see what walking around has for me later. Weather is really bad, cold, raining. In DC it’s 69 degrees.
In the hotel restaurant, waiting on the meal. After I eat, I will go back to the room and work on some writing projects and try to get an early night. I am pretty buzzed from lack of sleep. There’s a lot I can accomplish this year, another book, I think I can do it. I have a lot of writing stuff to do this year with the radio show and the IFC show and other stuff. I will have to write every day to pull it off.
2233 hrs. In my room. Earlier today, as I was waiting for my no show bag, I took a picture of an advertisement that was on the wall next to the baggage belt. It depicts what looks like a Toyota truck with a crosshair sight laid over the part of the windshield where the driver’s head would be. The exact spot where I saw a cluster of bullet holes in the windshield of a Humvee in Iraq once. The ad says, “When going to Iraq, make sure to drive armored.” The company was called Asbeck and they are out of Germany. I didn’t understand why they would have that on the wall for people to contemplate as they waited for their luggage. This luggage belt, by the way, had a great design feature where it throws suitcases off onto the floor every few minutes in this no man’s land area near the mouth of the belt. Also, this comes to mind: as I waited for my bag, there were other people who were waiting and at least three of them, at different times, would go to the place where those strips of heavy rubber hang over the mouth of the belt and pull these great flaps of rubber back to look and see what was coming. I don’t understand why they did that. Is it a way to somehow know more than you could by merely waiting it out? Isn’t the surprise of your bag coming through those flaps like some kind of birthing something to look forward to post flight?
The outside of this hotel reminds me of the hotels I have stayed at in Nairobi, Kenya. Gates, security and even a metal detector and baggage x-ray in the lobby. I was trying to figure out why and then I remembered the hotel bombings they had here in 2005. I looked it up and sure enough, there were three hotel bombings on 11-09-05 here in Amman. On the internet, a report said that Al Qaeda claimed responsibility for the attacks. After watching the three part series The Power Of Nightmares, it’s impossible for me to think about terrorism in the same way.
 
01-07-07 Amman Jordan: 1010 hrs. They throw in a free breakfast here and seeing how expensive everything is, I’m not going to miss it. Today I will check the news and make notes for the upcoming radio shows. Past that, relative rest and relaxation, show prep, bag watch and other stuff.
One of my resolutions for 2007 is upgrading my level of overall politeness to people. I think I am pretty good at it but I bet I can do better. So far, I have been good. I did slip when I barked at that kid in the airport in Tehran and I am sorry about that.
The coffee in the breakfast room is a crime against humanity. A cup of hot bathwater would be a better option. Perhaps I would be better off hitting the street and seeing if I can find someone from New Guinea to sell me some betel-nut to chew on. That’s what I’ll do, I’ll get hooked up and spit kot juice in an alley all day. Anything would be better than this coffee. 1023 hrs.
2017 hrs. Time is running out. I am out of here tomorrow and my bag is still missing. Worrying about it, dealing with it, or trying to, has pretty much ruined my stay here. I was really looking forward to this 48 hours to catch my breath and not think about stuff so much like I have to on tour. All I did today was call the airport and get pulled around and attempt to get my head around the shows and the work coming up in Israel. I admit I didn’t use the time very well. I rarely do. It’s hard on morale when stuff like this happens. It’s challenging enough out here. The people at the airport don’t care, why should they? The same bag was lost in Turkey for a month and amazingly came back to me with all my stuff in it. I wonder if the bag ever got out of Iran.
2243 hrs. My break is done and tomorrow I am out of here bag or no bag. I have spent a good part of the day calling the airport and calling back when they told me to and still there’s no news. If I can’t get the bag tomorrow then I will have to have it sent to Tel Aviv and I’m sure that will make things all the more complicated. Meanwhile, I have been washing my clothes in the sink and wearing them dry. It was a bad time and it kind of poked some holes in my morale and is a distraction. It’s hard to think about the shows I have coming up this week with the hassle of the bag always in the way. I’m going to get to sleep as soon as I can so I can be up early and get back on the phone with the airport.
 
01-08-07 Amman Jordan: 1353 hrs. At the airport at a Starbucks. A Starbucks in Jordan, no surprise there, they are everywhere. This morning, my nervous sleep was interrupted by the sound of men at work. I looked under my bed as it seemed to be the area where the source of the noise was emanating. There were men underneath my bed building something. I asked one of them what they were building and the man yelled over the noise of his co-workers, “Starbucks coming soon!” This is the third time I have been awoken in a hotel room only to find a Starbucks being built there. The other times the Starbucks were being built in the closet. One time, there was one that was open for business in my room. All that customer traffic in the morning and no one took anything from my bag, I was impressed. In other Starbucks news, another lie was perpetrated on the masses by the conservative media mafia when they reported that Saddam Hussein’s last word was “God.” It wasn’t. It was actually “Espresso.” There was a Starbucks next to the gallows and he made his last purchase there. Saddam used to pour espresso into his mustache and let the beverage trickle into his mouth throughout the day. Strange. Anyway, that’s what he was saying on the gallows to Paul Bremer, who was casually attired in a polo shirt, slacks and a ski mask. Here is the complete transcript of Saddam’s Hussein’s last moments, which I cut from a report I found on Teenjihadist.com:
Saddam Hussein is walked up the steps to the gallows platform.
SH: Cold night, eh?
PB: Fuck you.
SH: Fuck you!
PB: You are nothing but an Islamofacist.
SH: You are nothing but a small man who pays women to urinate on him in hotel room bath tubs.
PB: You’re going to burn in Hell!
SH: Your testicles will be floating in a jar on Nancy Pelosi’s desk by Spring. How do you like them apples?
Onlooker #1: Eat my balls!
SH: No, you eat my balls!
Onlooker #2: Iraq will be freedomized!
SH: Little George, is that you?!
Onlooker #2: I’m the Decider!
SH: It is you! Yellow cake from Niger? Who comes up with this stuff, Karen Hughes?
Onlooker #2: She’s a good Christian woman!
SH: And Mary Cheney is a good Christian carpet muncher! How many shots of Stoli did it take you to work up the courage to sow your seed in that beast?!
Onlooker #2: Seven, no, nine, shut up!
SH: Her partner was a first round NFL draft pick!
Onlooker #2: You are part of the terroristizer networkers!
SH: Your wife is clinically depressed and uses a vibrator to pleasure herself!
Onlooker #2: You’re about to be justicated!
SH: Zoloft! Zoloft! Your wife is wiped out on Zoloft!
Onlooker #2: Stay the course! I never said that!
SH: Your girlfriend is a negress and your daughters have given their vaginas to many men!
Onlooker #2 is taken by men and put into the back of a limousine that quickly speeds off.
PB: Alright, here we are at the top. Are you ready for your moment of truth?
SH: Do I get a last request? By the way Paul, you look good in the ski mask.
PB: Thanks . . . shut up! No last requests!
SH: How about a hamburger?
PB: No!
SH: A cheeseburger?
PB: You’ll get nothing and like it!
SH: I love that film!
PB: Shut up!
SH: You found your wife in a kennel.
The noose is put around Saddam Hussein’s neck.
Starbucks Barista: Double espresso is up!
SH: Up here! That is my double espresso!
PB: You can drink your double espresso in Hell!
SH: I paid for that double espresso with money that Donald the butcher gave me! I want my espresso!
Trap door opens and Saddam Hussein hangs.
The Man who drove me to the airport was really cool. He was an older, powerfully built and rugged faced man. His voice boomed when he spoke.
WHERE ARE YOU FROM?!
America.
THANK YOU! I AM FROM PALESTINE!
It was a good time. He pointed out these ridiculous mansions that people are building there one after the other. He said that it’s people from Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Israel, and some Europeans. I asked him why and he said that Jordan is a very safe country for life and money. We parted ways at the airport but right before we pulled up to the curb, he gave me a coin he told me was 2000 years old. He told me he buys them from construction people who are digging up the earth and finding tons of artifacts, mainly coins. He buys them and re-sells them to a coin dealer in Kan Zaman for what amounts to a few American dollars each.
THIS MAN, HE SELLS THEM TO AMERICANS FOR 150 AMERICAN DOLLARS EACH! HE IS A FANTASTIC THIEF!
I went to the baggage claim window and asked about my bag. The man had me get a piece of paper stamped by another man that gave me permission to come into the baggage claim area and look through the piles of stranded luggage. I waded through well over 100 pieces of luggage of all descriptions but couldn’t find mine. I had some fun with the man who was dealing with my claim. He knew enough English to see that I was fucking with him a little and I managed to crack him up now and then:
Me: Do you realize all these refugee bags that are strewn like so many carcasses across this filthy floor represent people like myself, unshaven and without clothing? Do you know how many holidays you have ruined with your mishandling of people’s luggage?
Baggage Man: Yes
Me: Do you understand that these pieces of luggage are evidence of how you run your airlines?
Baggage Man: It is a busy season, the Hajj.
Me: The Hajj?! Gets really crazy during Hajj season, does it?! Baggage Man: Yes. (slightly smiling)
Me: Nothing like a Hajj to make the baggage handlers lose the ability to put luggage onto a plane!
Baggage Man: Yes. (now laughing)
Me: Is this (pointing to an open box of vodka bottles by the carousel) compensation you offer to people whose luggage you have lost so they can drink to forget the fact they will probably never see their possessions again?!
Baggage Man: No.
I gave him all my Tel Aviv info and am now at the airport, waiting for the flight.
 
2320 hrs. Tel Aviv Israel: In the hotel. Interesting thing happened after we landed. The bus pulls up to take us to the airport building. I always get mad when I see that we are not pulling up to a jet way when I see a rows of other planes sitting at them. Anyway, as I am exiting the plane I look through the window, see a van pull up and some men get out. I don’t think anything of it and keep moving towards the door. I walk down the stairs towards the bus, anticipating the crush of people inside, the ride, etc. when I see a man holding a sign with my name on it. I walk up to him and tell him that’s me. I am whisked into the van and taken to a private check in where I am led to a green room with food and drink as I wait for my passport to get dealt with. This time around, I just got the piece of paper with the stamp on it so I don’t have an Israel stamp in the passport which can make getting into some countries difficult and sometimes impossible. Had the Israeli stamp been in my passport at the Tehran airport, there’s a good chance I might not have been allowed in. I am going to try to get to Lebanon this year, another place the Israeli stamp isn’t doing you any favors. That’s pretty fucked up but as they say, that’s the way it is. I don’t know why I got this special treatment but it was really cool.
When I got to the hotel, I had a little while before the press started. I just finished it all a little while ago. The first thing was an interview with a young female for some kind of TV or online show. It was strange as I didn’t understand where she was coming from. I sat next to her on a bench seat and she said, “Don’t be afraid of me.” I was just sitting there, I still don’t know what she was getting at. People are strange, aren’t they? I was polite but it was hard to get through the maze of obtuse questions. I have no idea how the thing will come out. After that, I went to a room full of people and took questions from them. Finishing that, I went to the restaurant in the lobby and ate. I liked watching the people at the tables, their conversations were all very animated, old and young people talking to each other, people leaning in, using their hands. I like seeing people intellectually engaged, it makes me think that perhaps good things will happen in the future. It always seems like the wrong people get put in charge of things. Can you imagine if a more positive and switched on group of people had been elected into power in America six years ago?
 
01-09-07 Tel Aviv Israel: 1950 hrs. In the restaurant, waiting for the same thing I ordered last night. I want to get my meal in early and walk around some before I go back to the room and work on the radio show. I have not done the radio show work yet and don’t want to get behind.
I did two interviews today and talked to the Swift River guys who are out here to shoot the Saturday night show. IFC wanted a backdrop. I didn’t think we needed one but they asked if they could do one in Hebrew and Arabic that says “freedom of speech” or something. I think it’s pretty weak but I’ll play ball. I like the IFC people a lot and they have let me do another season of the show, so it’s cool. What the audience will think is, well, we’ll have to see how it goes. At the end of the day it’s always me who has to take the heat on this stuff, I don’t know if that ever occurs to them.
I am hoping that management brings me some clothes tomorrow. I wrote the airlines website and asked if there was any information on my missing bag, so far, nothing. It’s frustrating. There’s nothing I can do about it though. There’s nothing happening here, just waiting for the shows to start. Perhaps I’ll see something interesting out on the street tonight.
I will start in on the journal entries for the Canadian newspaper tomorrow.
 
01-12-07 Tel Aviv Israel: 2143 hrs. I did the show at 1415 hrs. Because of the Sabbath, the show had to go on early. I have not had the chance to do any writing here for a couple of days. Last night, I did a show in Jerusalem. It was interesting to be there at night and see people on the street. I was sitting in a restaurant near the venue before soundcheck, watching cars and people go by and heard music blaring from somewhere and then saw a van pass by with two young men on top dancing and waving. I asked someone at the table what that was all about and was told that it was a very serious religious sect. I guess they’re all very serious. I forget the name of the sect. Religious matters in and of themselves are of no interest to me. In fact, religion might be the most uninteresting topic for me. I was at the Western Wall the other day and watched these men praying while they rocked their bodies backwards and forwards. I was so glad I had never gone anywhere near religion and I felt bad for these people who I think are wasting their lives. I wouldn’t try to stop them and as long as they’re not trying to take me with them, we’re cool.
I met someone interesting today. His name is Ziv Koren and he’s very cool and very intense. He’s a photojournalist who took photos today and will be out with us on Sunday when we shoot outside shots for the IFC special. He’s good friends with James Nachtwey, the photojournalist who was the subject of the documentary War Photographer, which I have seen twice now. It’s amazing. Ziv gave me a small booklet of some of his work. The stuff this guy has seen is mind blowing. The booklet contains everything from portraits of Sharon, Barak, and Netanyahu to hectic shots from the heat of battle. He’s had shots on the cover of every magazine it seems. Anyway, it was cool to talk to him about Nachtwey, who seems to be one of the most intense people anywhere.
I had some meetings with management and we worked out the basic schedule for 2007. It looks like another uphill stress fest from start to finish. I think it will be a great year of work and challenge. It will be busier than last year. I think if I can maintain the level of activity, I can get a lot done this year. I have to stay with it. Whatever I do or don’t do, it makes no difference, it’s just what I want to do. Once I get some momentum and get in harness, I am pretty much good to go for the long haul. I don’t have anything holding me back so there’s no excuse not get it all done. Last year was good but this year has to be better. I want to make the IFC show better than last year and somehow outdo what I did with the radio show last year. I have been working on some future broadcasts that I think will be really good, it’s very time consuming but it’s worth it to make them as good as they can be. I can get all this stuff done if I just keep to myself and work every day. I can do it if I stay to myself and don’t stray from the work.
 
01-13-07 Tel Aviv Israel: 1913 hrs. Backstage. Just finished soundcheck. They brought in some much needed side fills and it sounds better. There’s always a lot of pressure when the show is being shot. A few minutes in I usually forget about the cameras and do the show just fine. I always get too nerved up for shows but this one comes with extra distraction. I finish the show and then get back to the hotel as soon as I can as I have a 0600 hrs. lobby call for a long day of shooting extra footage for this special. We will go all over the place and get as much footage as we can. That will go for about 12 hours at least. My flight for Toronto leaves at 0025 hrs. the next morning so I have enough time to grab a shower and go to the airport. I’ll get some good sleep on the flight. So basically, the next 24 hours will be a lot of work with wheels up being the finish line. The press days in Canada will be busy but low impact. Press is easy compared to shows.
Last night post show was good. I stayed in my room and worked on the radio show and other stuff. I tried to get to sleep early but couldn’t do it. I started thinking about tonight’s show and all the work we have to do tomorrow. It is hard for me to work with other people, they add noise and movement to everything. Everyone who I’m working with is great but it’s still difficult having people around the backstage area asking questions and talking when I am trying to get myself together. It’s a solid group and everyone’s working hard so it’s a good thing, just not always easy to handle.
Living this way, in hotel rooms and backstage areas, can make one very lonely. I see it with other people. I can recall echoes of how that felt but would have to read old journals of mine to get a better sense of what it felt like. Loneliness is a natural human tendency and it can be inspiring as much as it can be debilitating. I like to think of loneliness as something I starved to death by ignoring it until it was too weak to stand up and make its presence known. The way I regard it now, I think it’s just something that gets in the way and keeps you normal and moving along with the herd. The world is a lonely place. I live in Los Angeles which is one of the loneliest cities I have ever been to. Just because the world is lonely doesn’t mean you have to be. It’s not even a matter of not succumbing, for me it was a matter of throwing out a lot of rituals, learned behavior and letting anything else having to do with it just starve out and die off. I think it’s a very bad idea to depend on anyone for anything. There are situations where I have to but I don’t feel good about it. I sometimes miss people who have died but that’s a different thing altogether. They’re not coming back so the entire thought process is different. People are lonely. If you get too close to them, they’ll infect you with their loneliness and that will make it that much harder to get the work done. I kind of remember when I had a girlfriend and would think about her while on tour wondering if we were “cool” and it was distracting most of the time. Better off without. I would rather have a schedule or money or a weapon than a friend.
 
01-18-07 Toronto Canada: 0502 hrs. At the airport waiting for the 0620 hrs. flight to Dulles. The last three days have been busy and there was not much time to write anything. I basically did a lot of press and slept. The IFC people here are great and we got a lot done. Canadian press is fairly low impact, they are professional and prepared so it’s easy to be clear and get a point across.
Last night, there was a reception for me at a bar around the corner from the hotel. I met a lot of people, signed a lot of things and stood for a lot of pictures with people. Afterward, the press gals and I had some dinner at the hotel and went our separate ways. I tried to get some sleep and was largely unsuccessful. I hope to get a couple of hours on this flight.
When I get to DC I have a meeting with someone from National Geographic for what will hopefully lead to some employment up the road and then I am loose for the next couple of days. I am looking forward to seeing Ian and the old neighborhood. It is about as close to the idea of home as I get. I like to walk around the old streets and remember my life before I left town.
The last day in Israel was interesting. I did the 2nd Tel Aviv show, it went well. I got back to the hotel, slept a couple of hours and then started the day at 0600 hrs. We grabbed shots all over the immediate area from the Dead Sea to points in Jerusalem. For the first shot, I floated in the Dead Sea and did some promos for the show, it should look pretty funny. The texture of the water was really something, it was almost like syrup. I tasted it and it was salty beyond salty. People soak in it for the minerals and cover themselves with the mud that sits at the bottom in massive chunks. Luckily, there was a shower there. No matter how hard I tried to get it off me, I could still taste the bitterness of the Dead Sea on my arm later on.
From there, we went to Jerusalem and got shots all over the place. The Western Wall and the Temple Mount, where it’s said Jesus Christ was crucified, washed, entombed. Just like the other day when I was there, I saw many people kissing the stone and lining up to enter the grave and again it was depressing to see people acting in this way. It’s just pathetic. Ziv, the photojournalist, came with us and for most of the shots, it was the two of us walking and talking. He’s a very interesting man. All through the day, when we would be standing somewhere, he would point at the a spot a few feet away and tell of how he had photographed some awful event that happened there months or years before. That seems to be how it is in Israel, the day can go from normal to catastrophic at any time and in any place.
The most interesting parts of the day for me, besides driving around and looking at the rugged landscapes, happened towards the end of the day. We went to a section of the newly built wall, or Separation Barrier as some call it, that separates Israel from the West Bank. In the ‘80s, I made several visits to the Berlin Wall and I couldn’t help but compare the two. I always observed the wall in Berlin from the West German side, where its purpose was to keep people from getting out of the east side. I never understood the idea of walling off a place to keep people from going out into the world, it makes me think of North Korea. The primary purpose of the wall in Israel is to keep people out and cut down on suicide bombings which, apparently, it has helped to do. The section of wall we observed seemed at least twice as tall as the one in Berlin and even more impenetrable. I did some reading up on it and it’s over twice as high as the Berlin Wall. We were parked next to a gas station and there were some kids hanging out watching us. They seemed used to people pulling up and looking at the wall. I wondered what the view used to be like when they sat there as the sun set before the wall was built. It was probably great. Now all they have is a tall gray wall to contemplate. The wall has been a great inconvenience to many people who work or have family on the other side. What was a walk or short drive to the destination is now a long drive to a check point and then on from there. I have no idea what that kind of restriction of movement is like. I don’t think I would handle it well, or at least it would take a long time to get used to. If I were in opposition to the people who built the wall, it would make me hate them all the more. I don’t think there will ever be peace there. If there is, it will have to come from the Israeli side and go from there. They’re the ones with all the backing and the advantage it seems to me.
I wonder what Israelis think of all the money that America gives them every year to maintain Israel? I don’t think the money and support is a product of America’s love for Israel as much as it’s indicative of how much the Arab world is fucking hated by the American government, corporate powers and other concerns. Israel is basically an American outpost in the Middle East. They’re working to expand that, as any good corporation will do, that’s why America invaded Iraq.
The most beautiful part of the day was at sundown. We went to Mount Olive and looked across at Jerusalem. A few moments after the sun had dipped below the horizon the evening prayer started and from a few different mosques the sound of the voices echoing and blending was incredible. We recorded it. I heard Muslim prayers almost every day for about a month on this trip.
From Mount Olive we went to a café for the last shot of the day, the place was called Café Moment. On 03-09-02, 11 people were killed and dozens injured inside the café when a suicide bomber detonated himself. Hamas took responsibility for the attack. I sat with Ziv and we talked about what it’s like to live in a place where this kind of thing can happen almost any time anywhere. I truly have no concept of that kind of awareness. The man detonated himself to the left of where I was sitting and as we spoke, I kept looking over there and trying to imagine what it would have been like. I have seen a few photos of the scene, basically a gutted room with the floor almost completely covered in blood. One of the women who was on the crew for the shows and the shoot day told me that whenever she sees a crowd of people anywhere she immediately walks as far away from them as she can. When she sees an unaccompanied bag in a restaurant, she leaves. She said that this is the way a lot of people in Israel are.
I was coming out of the men’s room and walking back to the table when Ziv called out to me and pointed out the window. I didn’t know what he was on about but I looked out the window and saw a train of black SUVs flying by the café. Ziv said it was Condoleezza Rice and her entourage, who had been in the area earlier that day. I ran out of the café as quickly as I could and yelled “fuck you” at the disappearing taillights as they sped into the darkness. It felt good to let her know where I’m coming from. She’s a brilliant woman, too bad she plays for the wrong side, she’s a fucking monster like Cheney and the rest of those rotten criminals.
2348 hrs. At the hotel. What a day. I got to DC hours ago. First thing that happened was my bag went missing again. I now wonder if it’s because I went to Iran. Perhaps some people want to have a look at it. Hopefully it turns up in the morning. It’s almost funny but not that funny. I took a cab down to National Geographic, got there early and walked around the neighborhood for a little while. I love that part of DC. I met up with two of the people who come up with ideas for shows and we kicked ideas around over lunch. I liked them but I don’t think we came up with anything that they can use. I am remarkably bad at those kind of meetings, I have not a creative bone in my body. Still, it was really cool to meet them and I hope that something happens. It would be great to have done something with National Geographic before it’s all over, that would be so cool. I am not up to their standards but perhaps there’s something I can contribute. After the meeting was over and I was heading back to the hotel, passing by so many familiar streets and intersections, I thought that I have come a fair distance from the days I worked at the ice cream store, which isn’t a bad place to be. It’s been an interesting trip so far. I think of that job all the time. Sometimes I miss it very much. It’s when I am here, when I have this incredible reference point to draw from that I see that I have done a lot in the last 25 years since I left here. It fills me with a lot of mixed feelings though. Sometimes I wish I never left because I like being here so much and really like visiting the people I grew up with. They are people I have such admiration for, I am honored that I get to hang out with them now and then. I know that sounds ridiculous but that’s how I feel. I think of what I missed by leaving here in 1981. All the bands I never saw, things like that. I miss the simplicity of those times. A lot of that is part of youth, I know. You don’t have the world to contend with yet and in the limitations there’s a lot of freedom and good times. When you get a little older, there’s a lot more happening and you get busier with all of it. I think I did the right thing by leaving when I did. It’s been a hell of a time and there’s no way I could have done what I have without leaving here and taking several chances. All the same, being here rips me open and makes me feel very vulnerable and sometimes extremely confused and depressed.
After I got back to the hotel I met up with Ian and we went over to his parent’s place, as we usually do. We spent some time reading some of his mother’s writing. It takes up two full filing cabinets! Many of her journal entries are written in letter form to “Posterity.” That’s so cool. She willed it all to Ian’s niece Ava! How great is that?! Ian pulled out some of the letters, one of which describes the Teen Idles trip to California. I think Ginger wrote all these things to be read now. I think it was long range planning, knowing there was going to be a family there to read it after her passing. Her faith in that was an inspiration to write so much stuff. I think she really liked to write, that’s perhaps a good deal of it, but it had to be in her mind to keep the family strong with these stories. Ginger was one of the most extraordinary people I have ever met. I have every letter she ever wrote me. It was amazing to hear Ian read from her letters when she talked about us. It was like someone reading from a legendary time in history. Just that she mentioned me in her writing makes me feel special. I miss her very much. Hearing Ian read her words was incredible. The filing cabinets sit only a few feet from where she passed away.
From there we went to Ian’s place and hung out. Ian always plays records when I am there and he always throws on stuff that I have never heard. Tonight he played a band called Third World War who I had never heard of before, no surprise there. One should never think they have heard “a lot of music” because in relation to how much exists in the world, you have not heard but a small fraction even if you are an avid listener. Anyway, an interesting band, sounds like Skrewdriver and Sham 69 heard Third World War. Something that Ian has an almost unnatural ability to do, and he’s had this since I can remember, is buy a record that’s really cheap and a few years later it’s one of the rarest records ever. Stuff he finds for a couple of bucks somewhere, out of the few records he buys a year, are often these astounding finds. I’ve seen him get a record because he thought it looked interesting or whatever and then you hear it and it blows your mind and then you find out they only pressed a few hundred. In the last few years I have done this game where Ian plays something and then I go online and try to find it and fairly often, I completely strike out.
From Ian’s we started walking over to a place called Olson’s which is a bookstore. Ivor Hanson of Faith, Embrace, and Manifesto fame was going to read from his new book called Life On The Ledge: Reflections Of A New York City Window Cleaner and we were going to check it out. On the way over, we picked up Guy Picciotto and kept walking. For me, this kind of thing is as good as it gets. As much of a loner as I am, there are some people I brake for and most of them live here. We get to the bookstore and there’s some familiar faces there: Ian’s sister Katie and Eddie Janney, player on some of some of the greatest records Dischord ever released. Ivor read from the book and it was very cool. I took a lot of photos as I always do when I am here. From there, Ian, Eddie, Guy and I walked over to a restaurant. We walked in and sitting there with his parents was Ian Svenonius of Nation Of Ulysses, The Make Up, and Weird War. How cool is this night turning out to be?! Glad I had my camera with me. From there, we left with Ian S. in tow to our next stop which was Paul Bishow’s apartment. We were going to check out some film footage he has that was shot back in the day at Madam’s Organ, one of the great early, short-lived DC Punk venues. On the way there, we walked within blocks of Madam’s Organ, it was just fantastic. Paul’s apartment is located a few doors down from the old Ontario Theater at 1700 Columbia, where we saw The Clash, The Buzzcocks, Gang Of Four, The Cramps, and many others. On our way there we ran into Mick Lowe, one of the guys from the Madam’s Organ days. I don’t know what decade it was when last I saw him. We get to the apartment and Brendan Canty, of Rites Of Spring, Fugazi, Deadline, shows up. This is one of the great nights of the year so far. The footage was really cool, I saw my 18 year-old self in some of it. There’s no audio and I don’t know if they have enough for a real documentary but I hope something comes of the footage. I guess it’s Super 8 film. What I would have given to have recorded every moment I was in that place somehow, even if it was just journal entries. I saw some shows at Madam’s Organ, 2318 18th St. NW, that changed my life. It was one of the places that my life began. It wasn’t much, a row house basically, with the stage area in the front window. It’s now a hair salon, I think. Underneath it is the very cool Crooked Beat record store. I always try to buy records when I am in there to support the place. It’s so cool to walk in there and look up at the ceiling and know that over your head The Bad Brains, The Teen Idles, The Untouchables, Trench Mouth, The Mad and so many other bands rocked that place almost 30 years before. It’s where the Bad Brains did their 2nd ever show!
I remember some nights, after the bands had played, people would just stand around and hang out. It was some of the first social interaction I ever experienced. Being a shy person, it was really cool to have people be so friendly, it gave me a lot of confidence and it was one of the places I met people who thought differently. It was like waking up from a very long sleep. The years of private schooling really isolated me from the world and it was in the Punk Rock scene where I began to find my feet on the ground. All these years later, I am still trying to catch up on things.
From Columbia Rd. Guy and Ian S. took off and Ian, Eddie, Brendan and I went back to Ian’s and hung out for a little while, then Ian dropped me off here at the hotel.
Earlier tonight Ian gave me a record I had asked for a copy of a while ago. It was the 2nd pressing of the first Minor Threat record. The awful completist in me compelled me to ask him for one even though I hated to do it. Usually if it’s something like that, I just find a copy on ebay and don’t bother him but for some reason I asked him for a copy. It’s the one pressing of that record I didn’t have. As he gave me the record, he said that the record was his mother’s copy and he thought I should have it. I was really knocked out by that. I tried to thank him and explain what it meant and I am sure the words fell short but that he understood anyway. I guess it’s now my most prized record. I sure miss her. What a thing for him to do. Today was so great.
Sometimes when I am here it’s difficult for me to contain, control or understand all the things that are in my head. There are places only several yards from this hotel that literally make me stop breathing I am so moved when I walk by. I miss the place even though I am in it at that moment. I think I miss what it was and actually being there only makes that fact more concrete. Sometimes when I am here and I am about to go to sleep, I will bolt from the hotel and walk down the street to look in the window of the place I used to work in when I was a young teenager. I want it to be that place again and I want to go in and work at my old job. It’s also the same stretch of sidewalk I walked up in the summer of 1981 to go to the train station to go to New York City and audition for Black Flag. It hits me hard. Sometimes I look out the window of the room down at my old neighborhood and I just want to die. I don’t understand these feelings and they are very hard for me to deal with. No place does it to me like this place. The only thing that comes close is the two times I have been back to the South Bay in southern California where Black Flag lived. I went down there one night and drove around after well over 15 years of not seeing the place. I drove by the old practice place, the old SST, the Ginn’s house and a few other landmarks. It was intense. A couple of year ago I went down there again with Heidi one night and I showed her the old landmarks. We went to the Ginn’s house and looked in the window and there was Mr. Ginn working on something at a table. We watched him for a moment and left. That was the last time I ever saw him. He passed away not long ago. He was an amazing man and without his and Mrs. Ginn’s generosity, Black Flag would have had an even rougher ride than we did.
It’s great to be here but it comes with a price.
 
01-19-07 Washington DC: Late. Today was great. Ian suggested that we go out and visit Skip Groff. Skip used to run a record store out in Rockville, MD called Yesterday & Today. I used to go there all the time. A few years ago he closed the store down and now only sells online. If you check out my book Broken Summers, there are photos of Skip and the store. I had not seen Skip since the place closed on 09- 30-02. We drove out to Skip’s house and he took us to his warehouse where he keeps all his singles. It’s insane how many records the man has. I have no idea how many thousand pieces of vinyl were in that place. After we checked that out, we went back to his house and hung out there for awhile and then we came back into town. We went over to Ian’s and he played some really good records. This time around, he played some stuff I knew of but not much. Some of the bands he played were: The Hawnay Troof, XBXRX, Jah Scouse, The Bears, and a great single by a band called The Need. They have a really cool song called Let Them Eat Valium. Ian also had a download of the acetate alternate version of the first Velvet Underground album that I read about recently. It was online for free and he downloaded it and I copied it. Can’t wait to check it out. It’s great to get turned onto stuff I have not heard before by Ian because we have been listening to music together since we were young and it’s one of the great rituals of my life. We have spent so many hours checking out music together, it never gets boring. From his house we went to the Thai restaurant that we always go to when I am here and it was great as usual. After that, we talked for a long time and he dropped me off here at the hotel.
 
01-20-07 Washington DC: 0724 hrs. In the coffee place down the street from the hotel at the usual table. After I got back to the room last night I fought back the urge to sleep and went back out again for a short walk in the cold. The air was great and if I hadn’t been so tired, I would still be out walking in it. I got back to the room, racked for about 4.5 hours and then wrenched myself from sleep to get up and out. It would be great to still be sleeping but this is better. In 24 hours I won’t be here. In less than 24 hours I will take that early morning taxi to Dulles and head west. I hate that ride. It’s the beginning of the end of the trip. The hardest part of the DC visit is the night before I leave. I will sit in the hotel room, tired but unable to sleep. I look out the window for minutes on end and then usually throw on my coat and head back out and walk to some point just to be out in it a little while longer. I prolong the inevitable departure for as long as I can by staying awake. I reckon if I stay awake, then somehow it will be easier to deal with leaving. I started thinking this way when my friend Joe Cole was killed. I didn’t want to sleep afterwards thinking that if I did, he would really be dead. Ridiculous, of course, but the situation was a first for me. I remember when Ian’s mother was dying I didn’t want to sleep for fear that sleeping would somehow cause her to depart. I remember trying to sleep after I had arrived here and couldn’t get more than an hour. I got back up and went back to the house. I guess I didn’t want the story to be over and thought that by sleeping the story would end. I know that’s weak. To a lesser degree, that’s how I feel on the night before I leave here. The pain of leaving here almost makes it too hard to come here in the first place.
I work at being alone. I am alone when I want to be and alone when I don’t want to be in an effort to kill the desire to be around people. The more things I see and learn, the harder it is to be around people on any level beyond work related or casual greeting. Now and then I want to be around people or spend time with a female, but I know that’s a weakness I cannot give way to. I will not get anything done if I waste time trying to hold some female’s hand. I’ve never been good at that kind of thing anyway and for me, it’s dodging the truth and I can’t afford it. The people I put the brakes on for are here and it’s always great to see them. Ian is a busy guy with a lot of people leaning on him so it’s always amazing to me that he will take some time to hang out with me.
Today has great potential. Susie J. is coming up from Florida to hang photos at the Govinda Gallery for her upcoming show in early February. Susie is the person who took the pictures that are the covers of the first Teen Idles and Minor Threat releases. Her photos are in some of my books. Her photographs are very important to the DC Indie music scene. She has a book coming out next month called Punk Love. I did the foreword and Ian did the author interview. I can’t be here for the opening at the gallery but at least I can check in with Susie when she gets here. I saw a copy of the book at Ian’s last night, it looks really good. Ivor and Susie both have books out this year, that is so cool.
 
01-21-07 Dulles Airport: 0705 hrs. Waiting for the flight. Leaving is never easy. The long ride to Dulles is always a drag. Actually, the whole trip starts going south around Saturday afternoon, knowing that it’s heading towards a finish. The last few hours with Ian are simultaneously great and sad because I know that I will soon be leaving. It’s almost easier when Ian is on tour and I am on my own in DC, it’s less of a drag when I am outward bound.
As hard as it is to leave the old neighborhood, it’s time well spent with the people I like and hanging out with Ian rather than just walking around on my own. I do like being on my own for part of the time here, just walking, taking things in, thinking. Sometimes when I am here by myself I walk all over, hang out in places until they close and walk by places I used to live in or work at and places of people I know. I figure I should just leave them alone. I usually see these people when Ian sets it up. I figure everyone has their own thing going and I don’t want to slow down their lives. I try to be as low impact as possible in situations like these.
LA CA: 1828 hrs. It feels later. I guess it’s the time change. I got in around 5 hours ago. I got some sleep on the flight. I have been doing all the things I had on my list to get done today. Basic food and cleaning stuff. Almost done.
This is the finish line for this trip. Honestly, I feel like loading some more songs onto the iPod, re-packing and heading out for something else right now. I wouldn’t mind going right back to DC if there was something out there for me to do. That’s the problem, I can’t handle down time.
Yesterday was great. I walked down to the Govinda Gallery and talked to the owner Chris until Susie J. and Ian showed up. We laid out all the photographs on the floor and checked them out and they looked fantastic in large format. I have not seen Susie J. in many years and it was good to see her again. She looks great and it made me feel good to see her. I hired her at Häagen-Dazs many years ago and we still keep in touch. I am glad I had my camera with me because I got some great pictures of Ian and Susie J. together. The opening is on February 4 and I can’t be there because of shoot dates for the TV show. I will check tomorrow with the Swift River people and see what the status is on that but I bet they won’t be moving. If there was a way I could get out there for that opening I would do it.
The three of us eventually left Govinda and went to Ian’s brother’s house to visit the family and see their new baby. She’s a beautiful little thing. I played with her older sister Ava for quite awhile. She’s 4 and has a very fertile imagination. She told me her name wasn’t Ava, that Ava was not around. I asked her who she was and she said her name was Avalina. I asked where Ava was and she pointed to a can of paint and told me she was in there. I called her father over and told him that Ava was in a can of paint. We looked at the can of paint and asked her how Ava could possibly fit in there. She shrugged her shoulders like it was our problem to figure out. I asked her if there were any other sisters around and she said there was another named Angelina but she was asleep. I asked where she was sleeping and she said, “Under the covers, under the bed.” I asked, “You have another bed underneath your bed?” and she smiled and nodded like she knew I was buying all this. I asked if there was anyone else around I should know about and she said she had an invisible friend who lived next door but his mother rarely allows visits. I asked if he walks to school with her and she looked at me like I was an idiot who was now boring to her, “Of course!” Then we sat under the kitchen table and used a popsicle stick as a magic wand to make a postcard materialize from thin air. Actually it was her father who dropped it down to us, magic often needs a little help.
Ian, Susie J. and I left to take her to the airport. We dropped her off and then went to Dischord House. I had not been there in awhile. I have been going to that place since 1981. We stayed there for a little while and then went back to the old neighborhood and ate at one of the local restaurants and talked for a long time. We went from there to his car and he dropped me off at the hotel. It’s always great to see Ian and be around the old spots but this was one of the best visits I can remember. Seeing all those people was great. It’s good to know that I am not so out of it that I can’t hang around anyone. I still felt strange around them all, an outsider for the most part, but I could probably get around a lot of that by spending more time being around them. That they are so cool to me means a lot. I have a lot of respect for these people.
At the airport I was waiting for the plane and was listening to a bunch of contractors talk about going to Iraq and Afghanistan for work. One of them came over to me and asked me to sign a page from a newspaper. He showed me an article on the page about DC landmarks and they had the old Häagen-Dazs listed and talked about how Ian and I used to work there. I thought that was pretty cool. I got on the plane and fell out as soon as I could. I didn’t get any work done when I woke up because I was too depressed about the trip being over and having to come back to LA. I have been keeping busy all day and am now tired. I am going to fold my laundry and go to sleep. I will be up in a few hours and will go to the office and get back in my LA rut. I feel washed up at this moment.
 
01-26-07 LA CA: 2230 hrs. I have been back in LA for almost a week now. I have had a hard time getting back into the swing of things here. I was looking forward to the radio show last Tuesday but it didn’t go as well as I wanted it to, at least the music was good. I am still thinking about the time I had in DC. It was such a great visit. On Friday nights when I am here, I always think of places in my old neighborhood and wonder what’s happening at that moment. I did that tonight, knowing that a week ago, I was there.
One of the things that frustrates me about returning to LA is not the place itself but the act of returning somehow cheapens what I had been doing up until I returned. The only upside about returning is that I live alone and there is no one to deal with or have to explain anything to. I did a full week of “normal” and it’s lame how quickly I become absorbed back into this place. The only thing that reminds me that I have been gone is that I am jet lagging somewhat and my sleep is light and filled with bad dreams.
The president’s State of the Union Address a few days ago was an insult. What a failure he is. Two days ago, Wolf Blitzer interviewed Dick Cheney and was totally cowed by the guy. No balls. Cheney ate him for lunch.
Blitzer: You know, we’re out of time, but a couple of issues I want to raise with you: your daughter, Mary. She’s pregnant. All of us are happy she’s going to have a baby. You’re going to have another grandchild. Some of the -- some critics are suggesting -- for example, a statement from someone representing Focus on the Family, “Mary Cheney’s pregnancy raises the question of what’s best for children. Just because it’s possible to conceive a child outside of the relationship of a married mother and father doesn’t mean that it’s best for the child.” Do you want to respond to that?
Cheney: No
Blitzer: She’s, obviously, a good daughter...
Cheney: I’m delighted I’m about to have a sixth grandchild, Wolf. And obviously I think the world of both my daughters and all of my grandchildren. And I think, frankly, you’re out of line with that question.
Blitzer: I think all of us appreciate...
Cheney: I think you’re out of line.
Blitzer: We like your daughters. Believe me, I’m very sympathetic to Liz and to Mary. I like them both. That was a question that’s come up, and it’s a responsible, fair question.
Cheney: I just fundamentally disagree with you.
Blitzer: I want to congratulate you on having another grandchild. Let’s wind up with the soft stuff-- Nancy Pelosi. What was it like sitting with her last night as opposed to Dennis Hastert?
Fuck CNN. If I ever go in there again, I will just confront anyone whoever interviews me and force them to deal with me. I have lost all respect for that outlet except for Christiane Amanpour, she’s brilliant. Seeing how the media basically let the Bush administration run roughshod all over the truth, they can go fuck themselves. I think yesterday it was announced that four soldiers were kidnapped in Iraq and then handcuffed and executed. Bush and company have to go. They are covered in the blood of thousands. They have to go now. What a mess. What a depressing mess they have sunk this country and so much of the world into. So much waste and destruction. I used to wonder how people could still get behind Bush but now I don’t and I don’t care what any of them say to me at this point. I get these letters telling me that I am going Hollywood for being against the invasion and occupation of Iraq. That kind of thing used to make me mad but now I just answer the letter politely and tell the guy that I would really appreciate it if he told all his friends to hate me as well. I can only hope he passes that along. Whenever one of these assholes works the Hollywood angle, I know they are fucking weak.
I was thinking of getting out of here again next week when the IFC show shoot dates are done but I have a lot of work to do here and I am pretty worn out. I don’t think it was the travel that got me as much as coming back here.
I got a letter from a fellow in Israel the other day telling me that someone working on the shoot in Tel Aviv asked his girlfriend to walk up onstage and give me a bouquet of flowers and that he thought it was pretty lame. I wrote back and told him I agreed. I was wondering how that all came about. I felt so stupid standing there with these two bouquets of flowers in my arms at the start of my show. I found out that it was the producers doing. I wrote them a letter a few days ago telling them to fuck themselves and that it’s not their stage to mess with. It really threw me off at the top of the set. It’s one of my nightmares, someone getting onstage while I am there. It happens now and then and it’s always hard for me to get the set back on track. I managed to save it in Tel Aviv although it threw me off and it will show on the footage. This was the night when the cameras were rolling and it’s the one that will be used to make the IFC special to air several weeks from now. The less I need to deal with onstage the better but I guess that’s not the same idea the producers have. It’s shit like that that makes it hard to deal with them. They are good people but sometimes they are frustrating to work with. We have a long way to go to get through this season.
 
01-27-07 LA CA: 1904 hrs. I slept as long as I could last night but anxiety and bad dreams got me up fairly early so I have been going for hours. Of all the things I saw and experienced in the time I was out on this trip, a few instances stand out vividly. One is when I was walking down a street in town near the Lemonier Base in Djibouti, a young boy came up to me and pointed at the bottle of water I had in my hand. I just smiled and put it in my pocket, I didn’t think to just give him the damn water. As I walked a short distance past him, I looked down and the water was gone. I guess he really needed that water. I can still see his face. Another thing that I remember is how I felt when I was walking with Ian, Eddie, Guy and Ian S. through the Adams Morgan neighborhood. The sound of their voices and their familiarity, the cold air, the streetlights, that we were all together at once and that it meant something. To me, it’s more than just some people walking together. I live alone and spend a great deal of time by myself. I work at it. It’s not always easy but most of the time I think it’s the right thing to do. I don’t know a lot of people. It’s easier for me that way. A long time ago, when I started traveling all the time, I learned that the less attachments to people I had, the better. I have lived that way for many years now. Many events in my life have turned me further inward so it’s often difficult to close the distance I have with people even when I want to. When I visit these people in DC I don’t exactly feel like I am with them, it’s more like I am next to them but in that instance when we were walking down the street, I felt like I was with them and it was really great. These are some of the best people I have ever met so I am always honored to be around them. When I think of all the great things they have done in their lives I am filled with awe and inspiration. In that moment when we were walking together, I felt like I was from somewhere. I get that feeling now and then when I am in DC.
On a different note, I am listening to Flogging A Dead Horse, the collection of b-sides and miscellaneous tracks by the Sex Pistols. Fuck, what a great band that was. The Never Mind The Bullocks album is as good as it gets I reckon. My favorite tracks of theirs were the b-sides though. I Wanna Be Me, No Fun, those are perfect.
I have a lot of work next week so I have to get out of this and get my head in the game. I have to shoot the first four episodes for the IFC show. I have been writing stuff for it and still have a lot to do but will make deadline. In April I have shows in NYC and LA with Janeane Garofalo and Marc Maron. We were going to call the show Rome but it seemed to cause confusion. Janeane and I were talking about it today and I said that it wasn’t a play and there’s no music and she said we should use that as the title of the show. So now the title of the show is It’s Not A Play And There’s No Music: An Evening With Janeane Garofalo, Marc Maron & Henry Rollins. We’ll do five shows out there and five out here. I think that’s how it’s going to go down. It will give me something to prepare for.
This was a depressing week, being back here, the troop casualties. I can’t wait to get on the road and go somewhere else.
 
These are the entries I wrote for the Canadian newspaper:
 
01-10-07 Tel Aviv Israel: 2351 hrs. I have been in Tel Aviv for a little over two days. The last few weeks have been busy and interesting. The first part of the journey that put me here started on the 19th of last month when I left Los Angeles, California for my 7th USO tour. The USO, otherwise known as the United Services Organization, is an NGO that provides entertainment for American Forces wherever they may be. USO regulars include rocker Joan Jett, comedian and talk show host Al Franken and many others. I do not support president Bush’s oil grab in Iraq or his demofacist foreign policy that creates more enemies of America all over the world every day. I do, however, support the troops and their families no matter whether we see eye to eye on any of these issues. USO tours have taken me all over the world to locations such as Iraq, Afghanistan, Kuwait, Egypt, South Korea and Kyrgyzstan.
Anyway, I went from LA to Frankfurt, Germany, switched planes and arrived in Dubai, UAE hours later. For the next few days I spent time with American Forces in Dubai and Abu Dhabi and then went to Djibouti, Africa via Qatar where I spent Christmas and then went to Bahrain, the end of the USO tour. I flew back to Dubai for a speaking date and from there I went to Tehran, Iran for five days. I have wanted to go there for many years. It was an experience to say the least. With the way president Bush is rattling the sabers, it looks like he wants to send other people’s sons and daughters to Iran to fight them there before we have to fight them here or take care of the smoking gun that may some day become a mushroom cloud or to stay the course or something. I hope he gets fed well in prison.
From Tehran I went to Amman, Jordan via Dubai where my bag went missing. My two days off in Jordan were spent calling the airport and having strange conversations with the good people at the lost and found department. I am here for three talking shows, Thursday to Saturday.
Today was good for two reasons: I reconnected with one of the more interesting people I have ever met, a man named Michael who drove me around Israel when I was here years ago. I learned a lot from him. He took me to Jerusalem today and we spent the day walking around as he gave me one of his amazing history lessons. Israel is one of the most beautiful countries I have ever seen and Jerusalem is just incredible. I can’t wait to come back. The other good thing that happened was my bag turned up and somehow made it all the way to Tel Aviv. Actually, another good thing happened, I was invited to be a guest at a local radio station where I was allowed to play all the music so I brought my iPod and played a lot of music that might be a first for some of the listeners. I was really tired when I got there but woke up as soon as the show started. Radio is a blast. The shows start tomorrow and I can’t wait to get it going.
 
01-11-07 Jerusalem Israel: 1922 hrs. Backstage. The venue is very small and utilitarian. It reminds me of the small art spaces I used to do in Europe back in the ‘80s. I have no idea what to expect audience-wise tonight. I have only done one show in Israel and it was in Tel Aviv. We got here only a little while ago so there was no time to see anything. I would have been no good for taking in the sights anyway, I get far too wound up about the show to do anything but go to the dressing room and prepare myself. I have been doing shows like this for about 23 years and they have never been easy and I am always nerved up before every single show. I want to be onstage and do the show but before I get out there, I can never figure out how I am going to get through it. I think the constant stress keeps me honest but is probably taking its toll on me in other ways.
My manager is in town as the Saturday show is being filmed for a special on the Independent Film Channel. Hours ago, he and I did our ritual beginning of the year meeting where we figure out the schedule for the too many things I want to do in a 12 month period. Within an hour we were able to figure out that I will have a few days off here and there but for the most part it will be like the previous years: too much, too often—just the way I like it. Actually, it’s the only way I have been able to deal with life. I think that work and constant movement is the way I self-medicate. I am an angry man. I have been mad my whole life. I don’t kick dogs or punch the walls in a drunken stupor but I do fight against my inherent laziness and my seeming inability to learn. I combat these weaknesses by throwing myself at work and forcing myself to endure as much geographic upheaval as I can stand. Somehow, I think I’m doing the right thing, on the other hand it could be that I can’t figure out what to do with my life. Life is a pain in the ass isn’t it? All the maintenance, ego, fear, ambition, and utter wretchedness of being human, I guess it’s better than being dead.
A talking show in Jerusalem?! Will anyone show up? Will they have a sense of humor? I’m not on until 2115 hrs. So for now, the cold room, the wait.
 
01-12-07 Tel Aviv Israel: 2039 hrs. Last night’s show was good. I had a feeling it was going to be ok when I walked out there and saw so many people smiling. I did the show and after it was over I walked behind the curtain and sat down in a chair and finished my bottle of water. When I looked up I saw there were a bunch of people standing around me, basically a large part of the audience just followed me backstage. I thought it was very funny. They were very friendly and I took photos with them and signed all the things they had and then I packed up and left.
I hit stage here in Tel Aviv today around 1415 hrs. The early stage time was because of the Sabbath. I am not familiar with how it works with things like the Sabbath and some of the rituals of religious rites. While I am not for or against religion of any kind, I must say that it holds no interest to me at all. I was at the Western Wall a couple of days ago and watched the men and women doing their devotions and while I respect the intensity of it all, it’s not a thing I want to do with my time. To see people in their outfits walking about, to see how much of their time is spent being religious is, to me, the definition of misery. On the other hand, you can take everything I know about the topic and fit it in a thimble.
The rest of this evening and night I have to myself. I am too tired to walk around and am happy to be alone in my small room with the door closed. I’ve got some music on and a cup of coffee and it’s all I need. I have been out on this trip almost a month now. I will be out again somewhere else in the world next month as I have about two clear weeks in February with no shoot dates for my television show on the Independent Film Channel and nothing I can’t work around. I am pretty slammed with work all year and have been working with management looking for spaces in the schedule here and there when I can travel. I think February will be Laos, Vietnam and perhaps Cambodia. I have been eager to go to Vietnam for some time and am very interested in seeing the Plain of Jars in Laos.
 
01-13-07 Tel Aviv Israel: 1835 hrs. Backstage at the venue. I am not onstage for another three hours. The more nervous I am before shows, the earlier I come to the venue. I am usually nerved up before a show but this one is being filmed so it throws a little more tension into the mix. The talking shows I do are never easy as there’s so many ways for it to go bad. I have show amnesia. Even if I am several shows into a tour, hitting stage night after night, I will sit hours out from stage time, wondering how I am going to get through it. When it’s time to hit it, there’s no place I’d rather be. I feel that way every time I walk out there but sitting here now, I can’t remember feeling that way even though I was in this venue yesterday. I have been going onto stages for over 25 years and while I like to be there, it’s never been an easy time. On tour, I live inside a held breath of anticipation. It’s all about the show and the next one. There is a short time after the show where I feel extreme relief and soon after, I start getting nervous again. I had hoped that it would get easier with age and experience but it has only gotten worse.
The next 24 hours will be very busy and sleep free. I do the show tonight and have to be in the lobby of the hotel at 0600 hrs. We will be out all day, driving all over the place getting exterior shots for this television special. It will be a 12 hour day at the minimum and a few hours later, I am on the aforementioned flight to Toronto for two days of press.
Shouldn’t I be writing more about Tel Aviv and Israel? Probably, but it’s hard to look around with shows looming. It’s one of the downsides of touring for me. If there’s a show to do, I stop thinking of where I am and just think about the show. I am happy that I was able to have at least one day off here to drive around with Michael and just see the place. As it is now, all I can think of is that stage. Tomorrow will be better. We will be moving hard but at least we’ll be out in it and able to see some things.
Later: Show over. Audience was great and I think the show went ok. Glad to get that one done. I have to be up in a few hours to start shooting.
 
01-14-07 Tel Aviv Israel: 2204 hrs. Back at the hotel. We were out getting shots for about 14 hours. The idea of the day’s work was to film Ziv Koren, the great Israeli photojournalist, and me walking through several locations and talking. We went to many interesting places but what made them all the more interesting was Ziv’s experiences in some of them. Ziv has covered many intense and dangerous events that have happened in Israel over the last several years. Many of the religious landmarks we visited were made more interesting when Ziv would recount taking photos in the middle of an intense Israeli-Palestinian clash and point to a spot three feet from where he was standing and explain how he had photographed an injured Israeli soldier being dragged to safety right there. There’s a lot of that kind of thing in Israel. Around sundown, we went to a section of the newly built wall to check it out up close. I made many trips to the Berlin Wall in the 1980s and remember it well. This one is taller, stronger and serves a different purpose but the feeling I had when I walked along it was the same as I felt in Berlin. Apparently, this wall has cut down the number of suicide bombings in Israel.
The last shot of the day was in a café where in 2002, a suicide bomber walked in and deployed a device, killing nine patrons and injuring many others. I have seen a photograph of the result and it’s about as awful as you can imagine. We sat a few feet away from where that photo was taken. The café was quickly rebuilt to look like it did before and re-opened. Life goes on. This is the spirit of Israel. Our location manager, Sharon, whose office is around the corner and frequents this place, said it took her a year to come back in. There is an intensity and vitality that courses through the many people I’ve met in Israel that I have not encountered anywhere else. They are people who have been through a lot and will no doubt be going through a lot more. Next stop, Toronto.