Bangkok
Thailand’s capital might well come as a shock to the senses, but there is plenty to see for anyone prepared to put up with the heat and confusion. King Rama I modelled Bangkok 1 [map] after Ayutthaya, with canals that ringed the city and many magnificent temples. The temples are still beautiful attractions, along with palaces and historic buildings, but today the city has expanded beyond the old town into a bursting metropolis. It is a mix of huge shopping malls, bustling markets, sleepy canals, and, of course, the city’s notorious nightlife.
Gold statues at the Temple of the Emerald Buddha
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
The heat and the urban sprawl make it one of the world’s least walkable cities, and aimless sauntering may result in nothing but a twisted ankle, for the pavement is chronically torn up. Three preferable options are to find yourself a taxi, a tuk-tuk (a three-wheeled passenger-carrying motor scooter) or a coach tour, which can be arranged in any hotel. There are also two mass transit systems – called the Metro or subway (an underground network) and Skytrain (an elevated service) – which enable you to circumnavigate the city in air-conditioned comfort. Both operate frequently between key points such as Hualamphong Station, Silom Road, Sukhumvit Road and the hotels by the river (for more information, click here).
City districts
The city’s sights are widely spread, with several major neighbourhoods vying for attention. Start your tour with the area called Ko Rattanakosin, which has the greatest monuments and is situated just a stone’s throw from the Chao Phraya River. This is the original royal centre of the old city, and is home to the Wat Phra Kaew and Grand Palace complex (for more information, click here), as well as Wat Pho. North, within the old city, Banglamphu contains the famous backpacker area of Khao San Road, and beyond is Dusit, which developed as a royal enclave from the time of King Chulalongkorn. It has wide boulevards, European-influenced palace buildings and Dusit Zoo.
Food stall in bustling Chinatown
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
East of the old city, lively Chinatown has a profusion of entrepreneurs along Charoen Krung and Yaowarat Roads and the small lanes (sois) that cross between them. Walk along Sampeng Lane (Soi Wanit 1), the original 19th-century market, or Soi Itsaranuphap A [map] for shops that sell everything from Chinese lanterns and wigs to gold necklaces and street food.
Charoen Krung (also known as New Road) was the first paved road in Thailand. It leads south to Bangrak, one of the city’s original centres for Western businesses. Several churches and embassies are situated between Charoen Krung and the river, as are now-faded examples of 19th century architecture and the Oriental Hotel, once the haunt of such luminaries as Joseph Conrad, Noel Coward and Somerset Maugham. The area is well supplied with gift shops and ‘instant’ tailors.
Running east from Charoen Krung, Silom Road contains the modern business district and Patpong B [map], the most famous of the city’s red-light strips.
To the north, cinemas, restaurants and giant shopping malls populate Pathumwan, where Siam Square, a low-rise grid of streets, houses the boutique designers fashionable with the young. Look out for the 30,000 marine creatures at Sea Life Ocean World (www.sealifebangkok.com/en) in Siam Paragon shopping centre (www.siamparagon.co.th), and Bangkok’s branch of Madame Tussaud’s (www.madametussauds.com/bangkok). Erawan Shrine, the city’s most important spirit house, is on the corner of Ratchadamri Road and Ploenchit Road. It was built by the owners of the former Erawan Hotel following various mishaps. There have been no further incidents, and today, a steady stream of the faithful arrive to offer flowers and carved wooden elephants to the resident spirits.
Further east, Ploenchit Road becomes Sukhumvit Road, a busy shopping, entertainment and residential area. It has cheap beer bars aplenty, red light districts at Soi Nana and Soi Cowboy and several of Bangkok’s best clubs.
Wat Phra Kaew and Grand Palace Complex
If you have time for only one sight in Bangkok, make it the Wat Phra Kaew and Grand Palace complex (tel: 0 2224 3273; daily 8.30am–3.30pm), near Tha Chang pier. No temple so typifies Thai aesthetics as Wat Phra Kaew C [map], the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Its glittering surfaces and wealth of art make it one of Asia’s architectural wonders.
Visiting tips
If visiting the Wat Phra Kaew and Grand Palace, make sure you allow at least a couple of hours and don’t forget that respectful dress (no sleeveless T-shirts, low-cut tops, short skirts, shorts or flip-flops) is required and the guards at the main entrance vigorously enforce this dress code. For a small fee you can hire more modest clothing.
Wat Phra Kaew was the first major complex to be built in Bangkok. As you enter the compound, you will encounter an imposing trio of structures to your left – the huge golden Phra Si Rattana Chedi, the Phra Mondop (Library of Buddhist Scriptures), and the Prasat Phra Thep Bidom (Royal Pantheon). Behind the Phra Mondop is a large sandstone model of Angkor Wat. Along the northern edge of the model, you will also find Viharn Yot (Prayer Hall), flanked by Ho Phra Nak (Royal Mausoleum) on the left and Ho Phra Montien Tham (Auxillary Library) on the right.
Next you will come to the Chapel of the Emerald Buddha, which was specially constructed to house the kingdom’s most sacred image, the Emerald Buddha. Sitting high on a pedestal, the 66cm (26in) -tall jadeite image is surprisingly small, but the belief in its power is apparent from the pilgrims who prostrate themselves before it.
From Wat Phra Kaew, turn left into the adjacent Grand Palace, where the first building of note is the Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, which served as a royal residence for the first three kings of the Chakri dynasty: Rama I, II and III. Built during the reign of Rama I, the hall contains two thrones, the upper in the shape of a boat, the lower covered by a magnificent nine-tiered white canopy.
The Chakri Maha Prasat, centrepiece of the Grand Palace
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Next is the majestic Chakri Maha Prasat (Grand Palace Hall). It was built in 1882 by the internationally minded Rama V, and blends Asian and Italian Renaissance styles. The approach stairway and central balcony are of particular note. These are topped by a traditional roof, which rises in stages to three seven-tiered spires. Below the central spire stands a golden urn containing the ashes of most of the Chakri kings, including those of King Bhumibol.
Further on the left, a pair of 200-year-old stone lions stand guard at the entrance to the Dusit Maha Prasat (Dusit Hall), where kings used to conduct state business. It is now the final resting place for deceased kings before they are cremated in the nearby Sanam Luang field.
On the edge of the square, near Dusit Hall, you will see a white marble building known as the Arporn Phimok Prasat (Disrobing Pavilion). Built to the height of the king’s palanquin, this was where the king would alight from his carriage and adjust his ceremonial hat before entering the throne hall.
Opposite is the Wat Phra Kaew Museum, which has a collection of exquisite Buddha images made of crystal, silver, ivory and gold as well as some beautiful lacquer screens.
On the way out, you can also visit the Coins and Decorations Museum. Displayed in glass cases in two jail-like enclaves are gold coins, swords and crown jewels, dating from the 11th century.
What’s a wat?
You will see wats, or Buddhist temples, everywhere in Thailand. To help you find your way around, here’s a brief rundown of the most common architectural terms:
bot: the main sanctuary of a temple, where religious rites are held
viharn: a replica of the bot that is used to keep Buddha images
prang: an ellipse-shaped stupa based on the corner tower of a Khmer temple and also housing images of the Buddha
chedi (stupa): the most venerated structure, a bell-like dome that originally enshrined relics of the Buddha, later of holy men and kings
mondop: wood or brick structure with pyramidal roof, built as a repository for a holy object
Six great wats
Visit six of Bangkok’s wats – monasteries or temples – as part of your tour of its greatest architectural wonders. It is advisable to tackle these in two or more trips, as distances between them are considerable.
One of the best-known Thai landmarks, Wat Arun D [map] (Temple of Dawn; across from Tha Tien Pier; tel: 0 2891 2185; www.watarun.net; daily 8.30am–5.30pm), stands on the opposite bank of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, but is only a minute or two away by ferry. The temple was renovated during the first half of the 19th century by Rama II and Rama III, and is decorated with millions of fragments of porcelain arranged in the shape of flowers. The central tower affords stunning views across the river. For quintessential sunset views, photographers should perch themselves at the riverside bar on the opposite bank.
Reclining Buddha in Wat Pho, Bangkok’s oldest temple
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Wat Pho E [map] (tel: 0 2226 0335; www.watpho.com; daily 8am–6.30pm), Bangkok’s oldest temple, houses an incredible 19th-century gilt reclining Buddha in its vast white enclosure. Almost 15m (49ft) high and 46m (151ft) long, it reaches right up to the roof of the temple. On the feet, inlaid with mother-of-pearl, are the 108 auspicious characteristics of the Buddha.
Wat Suthat (Bamrung Muang Road; tel: 0 2221 4026, 0 2221 4331; daily 8.30am–9pm) was started by Rama I in 1807, but took three reigns to complete. Its 8m (26ft) -tall Buddha is one of the largest surviving from Sukhothai. Rama II himself is said to have carved the bot’s teakwood doors. In the square outside, the Giant Swing is where young men at Brahmin New Year swung to great heights in a gondola to catch purses of gold hanging from poles. The ceremony was banned in 1931 after several accidents.
The Golden Mount F [map] (tel: 0 2621 2280; daily 8am–5.30pm), accessed via Wat Saket (Boriphat Road; daily 5am–9pm), can be seen long before you reach it. It sits atop Bangkok’s only hill – and an artificial one at that – surmounted by a big gold chedi (stupa). Spiral steps up the mount’s reinforced sides lead to a viewing platform. Take a map with you to identify the palaces and temples spread out below the summit. The faithful make the climb for the shrine containing relics of the Buddha. These were given to King Rama V in 1897 by Lord Curzon, Viceroy of India.
The best time to visit Wat Benchamabophit, the Marble Temple (Rama V Road; tel: 0 2281 3277; www.watbenchama.com; daily 7am–6pm), is at dawn, when the graceful marble is still tinged with orange and the monks are lining up for their daily alms. Built at the turn of the 20th century, it is one of the finest examples of recent temple architecture in the city. It is a haven of calm, with its inner courtyard surrounded by Buddha statues, and its ponds filled with fish and turtles, fed daily by the monks. Outside and past the canal are the monks’ quarters, set among lawns.
The Buddha at Wat Traimit, Thailand’s largest gold image
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
The impressive Buddha at Wat Traimit (Charoenkrung Road; tel: 0 2623 1227; www.wattraimitr-withayaram.com; daily 8am–5pm) might have remained concealed forever had it not been for workmen extending the port of Bangkok, who dropped the then stucco-covered statue from a crane, revealing the vast Buddha inside. This is Thailand’s largest gold image, weighing 4.5 metric tonnes (5 tons) and dating from the Sukhothai period, when it was probably disguised to keep it out of the hands of the warring Burmese.
Museum highlight
The earliest works in the National Museum – from excavations at Ban Chiang in Northeast Thailand – are the most interesting: pots and jars with bold designs in the shape of fingerprints. The haunting patterns are curiously modern, and yet the pottery is probably 5,000 years old.
Museums and palaces
On Na Phra That Road, a short walk from the Grand Palace, stands the National Museum G [map] (tel: 0 2224 1333; Wed–Sun 9am–4pm). The museum houses Thailand’s finest collection of antiquities. The sculpture, ceramics and jewellery exhibited offer an insight into the country’s unique synthesis of different cultures – as well as the sheer variety of the kingdom’s artefacts. Try to be there for a tour (ask at Tourism Authority offices for times) so as not to be overwhelmed by the museum’s size and scope.
The exhibition divides Thai culture into several periods, starting off with the Dvaravati (6th–11th century AD), then tracing the development of political power to Lanna, Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and ultimately Bangkok. The rooms are arranged in a chronological fashion, and you can see the changes in the portrayal of the Buddha, the overriding theme of Thai art, as you walk through.
The museum offers a range of other things to see, from an 18-metric tonne (20-ton) royal funeral chariot – which required over 290 people to push it – to thrones, litters, 19th-century Thai typewriters, and even a full-sized model elephant fitted out for battle.
A different sort of museum is situated in the tasteful Jim Thompson House H [map], located to the east of the city (Soi Kasemsan 2, off Rama I Road; tel: 0 2216 7368; www.jimthompsonhouse.com; daily 9am–6pm, guided tours only). Bringing a sense of calm to even the most frenetic of days, the cool timber rooms of this teak house are packed with priceless artefacts, sculptures and ceramics.
The story of Jim Thompson is as intriguing as his taste in art. A New York architect, he came to Southeast Asia as a secret agent in World War II. Settling in Bangkok after the war, he converted the Thai silk industry from a primitive craft into an international big business. In 1967 he vanished while on holiday in neighbouring Malaysia. The mystery of his disappearance is still unsolved. No trace of Thompson has ever been found, but this monument, ‘the house on the khlong’ (canal), is exactly as he left it.
Slightly south of the Thompson House, on the corner of Rama I and Phaya Thai roads, is Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (tel: 0 2214 6630; www.bacc.or.th; Tue–Sun 10am–9pm). Opened in 2008 in a state-of-the-art building with nine floors set around a circular atrium, it is home to various exhibitions, an auditorium, café and restaurants.
Suan Pakkad Palace
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
One final building not to be missed is the Suan Pakkad Palace on Sri Ayutthaya Road (tel: 0 2245 4934; www.suanpakkad.com; daily 9am–4pm, guided tours only), near the Phaya Thai skytrain station. Suan Pakkad literally translates as ‘lettuce garden’, and this superb building is owned by Princess Chumbot and surrounded by leafy gardens. In the garden stands the delightful Lacquer Pavilion, which is believed to be the only house of its type to survive the sack of Ayutthaya in 1767. Bought in 1959, the pavilion was rebuilt here as a gift to the princess from her late husband. Some of the inside walls are covered with exquisite paintings – in gold leaf on black lacquer – which illustrate scenes in the life of the Buddha and episodes from the national legend, the Ramakien.
River taxis await passengers on the khlongs
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Bangkok from the water
The most popular way of exploring the fascinating khlong (canals), which are so central to Bangkok’s character, is to take either a tour from Tha Chang pier near the Grand Palace, or a similar trip arranged by any of the hotels. A one-hour tour is quite expensive, but will take you to sections of old Thonburi that you would hardly dream still existed – past floating restaurants, floating petrol stations, old wooden houses and temples.
Most river tours leave early in the morning and include a visit to the National Museum of Royal Barges (tel: 0 2424 0004; daily 9am–5pm) in a shed by Khlong Bangkok Noi. The otherworldly ceremonial craft are trimmed with fanciful prows and elaborate red and gold decorations. The king’s own boat is propelled by 50 oarsmen.
You can explore the canals on your own by means of the local boats, called hang yao. These long, narrow craft, powered by noisy truck engines, carry the propeller on the end of a long drive shaft – hence their name, which means ‘long-tailed’ boats. You can also hire your own hang yao by the hour, but be sure to agree on a price in advance.
Down Khlong Bangkok Noi (Small Canal) and Khlong Yai (Big Canal), handsome houses with gardens and fountains are squeezed cheek by jowl with old, wooden houses on stilts, shaded by palm trees. Nearby you will see rubber tyre factories next to temples, floating markets and snack bars.
Chao Praya river boat
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
If you prefer slower and cheaper transport, although it doesn’t travel the khlongs, take the Chao Phraya Tourist Boat (tel: 0 2866 3163-4; www.chaophrayatouristboat.com; daily 9.30am–5.30pm), which costs B180 for a one-day river pass. The route begins at Tha Sathorn and travels upriver to Tha Phra Athit, stopping at seven major piers in between. Boats leave every 30 minutes; you can get off at any pier and pick up another boat later.
The Chao Phraya River Express Boat is run by the same company and travels between Tha Nonthaburi pier in the north and Tha Wat Rajsingkorn in the south, and between Pakkret, Nonthaburi and Sathorn. Tickets on this boat are cheaper, but there is no narration of the stop names in English so it is best to know how many stops you need to go in advance.
Other sights
The Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute (tel: 0 2252 01614; www.saovabha.com; Mon–Fri 8.30am–4.30pm, Sat–Sun and holidays 8.30am–12pm), more popularly known as the Snake Farm, is operated by the Red Cross. Its primary function is to produce anti-venom serum to be used on snakebite victims. Tourists may view the venom milking sessions, which take place from Mondays to Fridays at 11am. Snake handling demonstrations are Mon–Fri at 2.30pm, and on Saturdays and Sundays at 11am.
Lumphini Park (daily 5am–9pm) is a haven of peace in the city centre. Thais come here to picnic, work out and practise tai chi. There is a lake with boats for hire, food stalls and a bar and restaurant at the park’s northern exit from where you can watch the sun set. There are Sunday evening outdoor classical or jazz concerts from December to February.
Dusit Zoo (tel: 0 2282 71113; www.zoothailand.org; daily 8am–6pm) was originally King Chulalongkorn’s private botanical gardens. As well as 300 animal species, many of which are located around the edges of the grounds, the zoo has a lake, where you can hire pedalos, and several places to eat. Thais come here to escape the city heat as much as to see the wildlife.
Off the centre, Chatuchak Weekend Market is a mind-boggling collection of stalls where anything is available, from snakes to potted plants and herbal cures for insomnia. Chatuchak is open for sale of miscellaneous goods only on Saturdays and Sundays, Wed–Thu are dedicated to plants and flowers and Friday is a wholesale day (www.chatuchak.org; 6am–6pm).
Further north from the market is the Museum of Contemporary Art (tel: 0 2016 56667; www.mocabangkok.com; Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm). Opened in 2012 and privately owned, it boasts an impressive collection of Thai modern art. It is well worth the trip.
Excursions from Bangkok
The following excursions are all easily reached from Bangkok. Each one would make for a rewarding side trip or useful stepping stone on the way north or south.
See traditional dancing at Rose Garden Riverside Resort
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Buddhist park and Nakhon Pathom
Less than an hour’s drive to the west of Bangkok lies Phutthamonthon 2 [map] (tel: 0 2441 9013; http://bbc.onab.go.th), a laid-back Buddhist park. The park’s centrepiece is the 15.87m (52ft) -high free-standing Buddha statue, around which large, well-manicured gardens and ponds attract many Thais looking to feed the numerous fish and escape the bustle of the city. The best time to go is in the morning before it gets too hot as there is not much shade.
Sanam Chan Palace
Also at Nakhon Pathom is the Sanam Chan Palace. This early 20th-century structure is in traditional Thai style, with the exception of one English Tudor building, which was once used as a setting for performances of Shakespeare plays.
From Phutthamonthon, continue 35km (22 miles) west to Nakhon Pathom (widely believed to be Thailand’s oldest town). This is home to Phra Pathom Chedi (tel: 0 3424 2143; daily 8am–5pm), the largest chedi (stupa) in the country, built by King Mongkut in the middle of the 19th century on top of the ruins of an ancient temple. During the 1970s, this new chedi almost collapsed, but the Fine Arts Department took prompt action and fortunately saved the day, so that it can still be seen in all its glory.
Floating Market
You won’t need a guide to show you the way to the Floating Market at Damnoen Saduak 3 [map] (daily 7am–11am), as everyone runs tours there nowadays. Even so, the diminutive boats, which are piled high with coconuts, bananas and durian, remain – almost – as authentic as ever. Try to get there quite early, while the women in broad-brimmed hats are still out in full force, paddling along the narrow canals and haggling over wares. Photographers might want to walk along the edge of the canal, or stop on the wooden bridges, which make excellent spots for observation. For a few hundred baht, a boat can even be arranged to paddle you out into the centre of the fray. At another tourist market onshore you can buy Burmese carpets, wood carvings and other such things. However, the goods are expensive and you will often find that identical goods are sold at keener prices in shops in Bangkok or in Chiang Mai’s Night Market.
Traders at a floating market
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Kanchanaburi
Its calm, lush setting on the banks of the Kwai River belies the history of Kanchanaburi 4 [map], for it was here during World War II that thousands of prisoners of war died building the famous Bridge on the River Kwai, as recounted in Pierre Boulle’s novel and the film based on it. The current structure was rebuilt after the war, and only the eight curved sections on it are original. Two trains cross the bridge every day on their way to the town of Nam Tok (Waterfall), a pleasant hour’s journey further to the west. You can walk across the bridge or view it from the long-tailed boats that hurtle up and down the river, stopping off at the cemetery and nearby caves.
To get an idea of the horrors of building the bridge, visit the two cemeteries, which contain graves and memorials to over 8,000 British, Dutch, Australian, Malaysian, Indian, Canadian, New Zealand and Burmese prisoners and conscripts who died during the railway’s construction, along with around 100,000 Asian civilians. The inscriptions on the gravestones are as simple and moving as tragic poems.
Afterwards, you can visit the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre (tel: 0 3451 2721; www.tbrconline.com; daily 9am–5pm), which is next door to the cemetery. It has exhibits on the history of the Death Railway and even a full-scale replica of the original bridge.
JEATH War Museum (tel: 0 3451 5203; daily 8.30am–4.30pm) sits on the riverbank. Housed in a type of bamboo hut used in the prison camps, the exhibition documents Japanese atrocities in photographs, paintings and relics. It also reveals the prisoners’ ingenuity in surviving great hardships, as well as the sympathy and help secretly offered to the inmates by local people.
Sangkhlaburi
There are bases for travellers northwest of Kanchanaburi, making it easier to explore some of the most unspoilt scenery in the country. Some hotels pamper guests with air-conditioning and swimming pools, while a couple of others, slightly more spartan, are built on bamboo rafts floating in the stream. Jungle treks and excursions to waterfalls, caves, tribal villages and national parks, including Erawan National Park (tel: 0 3457 4222; www.dnp.go.th; daily 8am–4.30pm), can be arranged from these camps.
Elephant trekking
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
On the edge of Sai Yok National Park lies Hellfire Pass, christened by POWs who were forced to dig in this area by torchlight. The road to Sangkhlaburi 5 [map] runs between the densely forested mountain slopes of the national parks, passing Khao Laem Reservoir, with the town situated at the northern tip of the lake. Sangkhlaburi is an ideal base for elephant trekking expeditions to nearby Mon and Karen villages. The Three Pagodas Pass, 12km (7.5 miles) further on, lies at an altitude of 1,400m (4,480ft). It owes its name to the three little white chedis erected here in the 18th century.
The most enjoyable way of visiting the ancient capital of Ayutthaya, 88km (55 miles) north of Bangkok, is by incorporating a trip on the Chao Phraya River. The River Sun Cruise (tel: 0 2266 9125; www.riversuncruise.co.th) organises daily trips to Ayutthaya, leaving at 8am by air-conditioned coach from the River City Shopping Complex and returning to the pier in front of it, on a converted rice barge. On the way you will see picturesque temples, rafts of floating logs bound for sawmills, and a countryside of rice fields and traditional stilt houses.
Before exploring the great historical site itself, most tours stop at the nearby royal estate of Bang Pa-In 6 [map] (tel: 0 3526 1044; daily 8am–4pm). This collection of palaces, set in gardens, was built by King Chulalongkorn in the late 19th century. The names of palaces like ‘The Excellent and Shining Abode’ and ‘The Sage’s Lookout’ are as delightful as the structures themselves. Nothing beats the splendid Aisawan Thipha-at (The Divine Seat of Personal Freedom) in the middle of the lake by which King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) composed odes as the sun went down.
Founding a dynasty
According to one of several Thai legends, the founder of Ayutthaya was the illegitimate son of a princess, who was discovered to be pregnant after eating an aubergine on which a gardener had relieved himself! U-Thong, or Prince of the Golden Crib as the son was named, became the first of 33 ruling kings, while the kingdom became the largest and most beautiful in the East as well as the principal kingdom in Siam for over four centuries.
Back on the highway, continue 20km (12.5 miles) north to the town of Ayutthaya, former capital of Thailand and home to one of its greatest civilisations. In its heyday it was a fabulously wealthy, cosmopolitan city, until it was destroyed in 1767 by invading Burmese armies. Some sites are free to enter, others cost B30.
There are dozens of distinctive buildings, and you will be hard-pressed to visit the whole of the Ayutthaya Historical Park 7 [map] (www.ayutthaya.go.th; daily 8am–6pm) in one day. For a tour of the ruins, you could start at Wat Phra Sri Sanphet A [map], on Si Sanphet Road, near the tourist parking area. The temple was built in 1491 and once housed a 16m (52ft) Buddha image covered in gold. In 1767 the Burmese set fire to the statue in order to melt off the gold, destroying both temple and image. What you can see are restored chedis (stupas) which hold the ashes of King Borom Trai Lokanat and his two sons.
At Wat Phra Ram B [map], a graceful 14th-century building positioned amid reflecting pools, there is a beautiful cloister lined with stone Buddha images, as well as several elephant gates, and mythical creatures called naga and garuda. The temple was built in 1369 by King Ramesuan, on the site where his father was cremated.
Wat Phra Mahathat
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Next, visit Wat Phra Mahathat C [map], one of the most beautiful temple complexes in Ayutthaya. Once it held treasures of precious stones, gold and crystal, and a relic of the Lord Buddha in a gold casket, which is now housed in the National Museum in Bangkok (for more information, click here). Next to Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratcha-burana D [map] was built in the 15th century around the tombs of Prince Ai and Prince Yo, brothers who slew each other in a tragic battle on elephant back. Rare frescoes remain in the crypt, but any portable antiquities were stolen or removed to museums years ago.
For an overview of Ayutthayan-style art, visit the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum E [map] (tel: 0 3524 1587; daily 9am–4pm), which holds well-preserved statues recovered from the ruins. There are beautiful bronze Buddhas dating from the 13th and 14th centuries, 17th- and 18th-century door panels with religious, traditional or floral carvings, and a hoard of 15th-century gold jewellery.
Finish off with a visit to the elephant kraal, a few miles from town, where hunters used to drive large herds of up to 200 wild elephants into the stockade. Once captured, they were put into the king’s service as fighters or, if they were the rare white type, as symbols of power. The last capture was in 1903 during the reign of King Chulalongkorn. If you want to learn more about elephants, visit non-profit organisation, Elephantstay, located in the village (www.elephantstay.com).
Ancient City
If your time is limited, there is no need to go to Sukhothai and Ayutthaya for ancient monuments. Loosely shaped like Thailand, the Ancient City 8 [map] or Muang Boran (tel: 0 2709 16448; www.ancientcitygroup.net; daily 9am–7pm), 33km (21 miles) southeast of Bangkok, has over 100 monuments, palaces, and other buildings placed approximately in their correct geographical location. Some are life-size reproductions of existing or lost structures, notably royal complexes from the ruins of Ayutthaya; others are relocated buildings that would otherwise have been demolished. The park also features exotic birds, monkeys and elephants. Travel agents run outings here, and there are daily buses from Bangkok.
Crocodile Farm and Zoo
Another 5km (3 miles) along the road from Ancient City is the Samut Prakan Crocodile Farm & Zoo (tel: 0 2703 4891; www.worldcrocodile.com; daily 8am–6pm). This huge enclosure is billed as the world’s largest establishment of its kind, with the total ‘croc’ population touted at over 100,000. The farm preserves endangered species at the same time as it entertains and educates the public. There is also a zoo with exotic birds, tigers, ostriches and elephants, as well as a Dinosaur Museum.
Khao Yai National Park
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Khao Yai National Park
Khao Yai 9 [map] (www.dnp.go.th; daily 6am–6pm) rises from the Khorat plateau northeast of Bangkok, baked dry in summer and verdant after the rains. Khao Yai means ‘big mountain’, and the national park, located three hours’ drive from Bangkok (200km/125 miles), is the oldest and one of the best in the land. The park can be reached by taking the bus from Bangkok to Pak Chong in Nakhon Ratchasima province, where there are pick-ups that leave for the main entrance.
The national park covers 2,100 sq km (837 sq miles). Within its boundaries are elephants and over 100 other species, including Asian wild dog, clouded leopard and black bear. Keep an eye out for some of Thailand’s most significant bird concentrations, among which are some of the largest groups of hornbills in Southeast Asia, moustached barbets, orange-breasted and red-headed trogons and great slaty woodpeckers. Wildlife sightings are not consistently common or guaranteed, but the walks to waterfalls are pleasant. Night-time safaris employ spotlights to locate deer, tropical birds and – if you are lucky – tigers and bears.
Before being declared a national park in 1962, Khao Yai was known as a sanctuary not just for animals, but also as a popular hiding place for outlaws. This, of course, is no longer the case, and now the fringes of the park offer hotels, restaurants and 18-hole golf courses.
Thailand’s ‘Khmer Culture Trail’
About 250km (100 miles) from Bangkok is the provincial capital of Khorat, Nakhon Ratchasima. The richest and largest city in the northeast, it is a good jumping off point for excursions to the Khmer ruins of the Khorat Plateau, including Phimai, Phanom Rung and Prasat Muang Tam.
Khmer mythical lion guard
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Banyan tree
A pleasant way to round off the trip to Phimai is to visit the banyan tree, which stands 2km (1 mile) further down the road and is said to be the biggest in Thailand. Delicious Isaan food is served in its shade, but only in the dry season – during the wet season, the nearby reservoir floods the picnic ground. If spirits live in trees – as many Thais believe – then this prodigious banyan is surely thronged with ghosts.
Phimai
Phimai ) [map], 60km (37 miles) north of Nakhon Ratchasima, is known for its ancient religious compound at the end of the long, dusty main street. Probably built during King Suriyavarman I’s reign in the 11th century, and situated not too far from the Cambodian border, Phimai was designed by Khmer architects, and predates Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Four gates dominate the ruins, the largest preceded by a bridge guarded by lions. Adorning the elegant arcades of the cloisters are intricate engravings of flowers, elephants and monkeys.
Prasat Hin Phimai
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
In the inner courtyard stand two small prangs (Prang Hin Daeng and Prang Phromathat), and in the centre there is an ornate dome with doors and a lintel, carved with scenes related to Mahayana Buddhism. In the gardens there is an open-air museum, with a collection of ancient friezes, statues and stone lintels showing Buddha, gods and monkeys.
Phimai may be the best-known and most easily accessible Khmer temple site in Northeast Thailand, but Buriram’s Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung ! [map] (daily 8am–6pm) is better preserved, and set in more spectacular scenery atop an extinct volcano. Phanom Rung was constructed between the 10th and 13th centuries, but the greater part of the work was completed in the reign of King Suriyavarman II (1112–52), during the period when the architecture of Angkor reached its apogee. Today, after painstaking restoration, the sanctuary is the largest and best-preserved of all Thailand’s Khmer monuments.
Phanom Rung was originally built as a Hindu temple honouring the deities Vishnu and Shiva. Beautifully carved representations of these two gods can be found in the lintels and pediments of the sanctuary. On the east portico of the antechamber to the main sanctuary you’ll find a fine Nataraja, or Dancing Shiva figure.
Prasat Hin Muang Tam
About 8km (5 miles) south of Phanom Rung, in the dusty plain approaching the Cambodian frontier, stands the old Khmer sanctuary of Prasat Hin Muang Tam (daily 6am–6pm). Fifteen years ago, Muang Tam was a mass of stone walls and lintels, shrouded in dense vegetation. Today the temple complex has been splendidly restored by the Archaeological Commission of Thailand.
Other gems
Additional gems can be found in the neighbouring provinces of Surin and Si Saket. Ban Pluang (daily 7.30am–6pm), which dates from the second half of the 11th century and was once an important stop on the road between Angkor and Phimai, is a square sandstone tower built on a laterite platform. The surrounding moats and ponds have been turned into an attractive garden. Nearby Sikhoraphum (daily 8am–6pm) consists of five brick prangs on a square laterite platform surrounded by lily-filled ponds. The lintel and pillars of the central prang are beautifully carved with heavenly dancing girls, or apsaras, and other scenes from Hindu mythology.
Prasat Kamphaeng Yai
The ‘Khmer Culture Trail’ ends with the laterite sanctuary of Prasat Kamphaeng Yai (daily 8am–5pm). Here the ancient Khmer ruins rub shoulders with a much more recent Thai temple, and saffron-robed monks may be seen eating, studying or contemplating in the shade of the massive, attenuated prangs. Although the Khmer sanctuary was originally dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, the overall effect is most pleasing, and the active Buddhist presence strangely at one.
Central Thailand
The most striking feature of the central region is its sheer fertile abundance. This vast plain that starts at Bangkok’s outskirts is called the country’s ‘rice bowl’. It is home to one-third of the population, and the source of one of the world’s biggest rice crops. Centuries ago, this agricultural heartland was also home to some of the kingdom’s greatest civilisations, among them those of Si Satchanalai, Sukhothai and Lopburi, ancient cities that are as enchanting in ruins as they must have been in their heyday. Also in Central Thailand are two of the country’s most popular beach resorts – Pattaya and Hua Hin, located 147km (91 miles) southeast and 203km (126 miles) southwest of Bangkok respectively. Major towns to the north of Bangkok make good stopovers if you are en route to Thailand’s northern region.
Nong Nooch Tropical Garden
Dreamstime
Pattaya
Visitors no longer come to Pattaya @ [map] for pristine beaches and tropical seas, for this infamous resort lost its original attractions to pollution and development many years ago.
It was in the 1960s that the provincial seaside town rose to prominence. This was when the first American servicemen arrived from Vietnam War duties for what was soon described as ‘R & R’ – rest and recreation. The Thais eventually realised Pattaya’s commercial possibilities, and the area fast became a thriving international resort.
Today, Pattaya is notorious for its sex industry, but has an abundance of accommodation, bars, clubs, attractions and outdoor activities that draw a mixed crowd, including a surprising number of families. The sea around Pattaya Bay is not recommended, so if swimming is what you are after, take a boat trip to the outlying coral islands. Or catch a bus to the beach at Jomtien, a 15-minute trip south, where clean sand stretches for miles, with gleaming condominiums as a backdrop.
The adventurous can try out parasailing, sailing, jet-skiing and water-skiing, while others may prefer a day’s deep-sea fishing, relishing the opportunity to try catching delicious snapper and sizeable marlin. Excursion boats take tourists to islands in the surrounding area for swimming and snorkelling.
At Ko Larn (about 45 minutes from Pattaya in a converted trawler or half the time in a speedboat) you can explore the underwater world in a glass-bottomed boat, gazing at vivid tropical fish and coral – albeit now sadly depleted. Many scuba expeditions begin here before going on to a couple of wrecks further south near Sattahip.
Sculptures in the Sanctuary of Truth
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Land tours are just as easy to arrange. To the east, Nong Nooch Tropical Garden (tel: 0 3823 8061; www.nongnoochtropicalgarden.com; daily 8am–6pm), 18km (11 miles) away, features Thai cultural performances and elephant shows, and a vast acreage of exotic palms, orchids and cacti. Alternatively, try the water theme park Pattaya Park (tel: 0 3825 12018; www.pattayapark.com; daily 10am–7pm), or Pattaya Elephant Village (tel: 0 3824 9818; www.elephant-village-pattaya.com; daily 8.30am–6pm), where you can ride an elephant or arrange an elephant trek. For a strange cultural experience, visit Naklua’s fantastic wood-carved Sanctuary of Truth (tel: 0 3836 7229; www.sanctuaryoftruth.com; daily 8am–6pm), a 105m (340ft) -tall monument to Asian religions. It is made completely of hard woods with intricately hand-carved figures of gods and spirits. The sanctuary also offers activities such as speedboat rides on the adjacent lagoon, elephant trekking and horse riding, plus traditional dance and martial arts shows.
Pattaya offers abundant culinary delights. The restaurants serve first-rate seafood: there are plenty of simple waterfront restaurants that are rich in character but cheap in price. Those who prefer French fries and bratwurst are also catered for.
Pattaya’s nightlife, too, has something to satisfy almost all tastes, from big stage productions at Alangkarn Theatre and transvestite shows, to nightclubs, beer bars and all other establishments that have earned this area its reputation as the international entertainment resort of Thailand.
The beach at Ko Samet
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The eastern seaboard
Further east of Pattaya, the small idyllic island of Ko Samet £ [map] has become a firm weekend favourite for Bangkok residents. The white sand beaches and clear blue water are part of a national marine park so most accommodation is fairly low-key. The island is best avoided on public holidays, when visitors outnumber beds, and tents spring up everywhere.
Near the Cambodian border is Thailand’s second-largest island, Ko Chang $ [map] (Elephant Island), the dominant isle of over 50 that make up the national marine park of the same name. A current development drive is gradually transforming the hilly island from a place of backpacker bungalows to one consisting of higher-end boutique resorts, but it is still one of the most pristine islands in the Gulf of Thailand.
Hua Hin
There are quieter charms at Hua Hin % [map], 203km (126 miles) southwest of Bangkok on the opposite shore of the Gulf of Thailand. A slew of condominiums and retirement homes are changing this former fishing village, and its long, sweeping beaches are no longer as pleasant as they once were for swimming. They do, however, make fine strolling ground, with watersports, deckchairs to laze in, and pony-riding. The surrounding area has plentiful golf courses and luxury spa retreats, while the pier restaurants on Thanon Naresdamri grill excellent seafood.
Lopburi
Lopburi ^ [map] has superb stone temples built by the Khmers which dominate the city. These can be spotted even from the railway station, as can the French-style architecture and several hundred monkeys that have become this town’s other lasting claim to fame.
Originally one of the capitals of the Khmer people, Lopburi flourished under Thai rule in the 17th century. King Narai chose the town as an alternative capital, in case some unforeseen fate befell Ayutthaya. His caution was justified: Ayutthaya was sacked by the Burmese the following century.
Stone temple resident in Lopburi
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Begin your tour at King Narai’s Palace or Phra Narai Ratchaniwet (tel: 0 3641 1458; Wed–Sun 8.30am–4.30pm), which was constructed in the mid-17th century, and took more than 12 years to complete. Inside is the National Museum, housing exquisite examples of Khmer art. The palace also incorporates the old treasure houses, a banquet hall, an audience hall for high-ranking foreign visitors and stables.
After the palace, visit Ban Vichayen (daily 8.30am–4.30pm), which originally served as the residence of Chevalier de Chaumont, the first French ambassador to Thailand. Later it was the residence of Constantine Phaulkon (for more information, click here).
Near the railway station, Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat (daily 6.30am–6pm) is a fine example of 12th-century Khmer-style architecture, with its chedis built in Sukhothai style.
Lopburi’s famous monkeys can be found by the railway in the Kala Shrine, as well as in nearby Phra Prang Sam Yot (Wed–Sun 6am–6pm), a magnificent 13th-century temple with three distinctive prangs from which they like to hang, begging food from visitors. Keep firm hold of your camera and other valuables, as monkeys clutching stolen goods are not an uncommon sight.
Reaching Sukhothai
The Sukhothai ruins lie within the boundaries of the historical park, 13km (8 miles) west of the new town of Sukhothai, and are reached easily by songthaew, pick-up trucks with seats in the back, which carry as many passengers as can be squeezed in.
Sukhothai
Sukhothai & [map], the most striking of Thailand’s various spectacular ruined cities, lies 427km (265 miles) north of Bangkok, surrounded by rice fields and distant hills. Built in the mid-13th and early-14th centuries under the legendary King Ramkam-haeng, Sukhothai flourished for almost 150 years until vanquished by Ayutthaya, and its people fled. Until around 40 years ago, the ancient capital was hidden by jungle, the outlines of the classical towers camouflaged by heavy undergrowth. The situation is now better, for in a huge renovation programme implemented by Unesco and Thailand’s government, some 200 moats, kilns, images and temples have been partially restored to the glory of earlier days.
For a glimpse of some remarkable sculptures, start at the Ramkamhaeng National Museum (tel: 0 5561 2167; daily 9am–4pm), near the Kamphaeng Hek Gate. This houses a splendid 14th-century example of the Walking Buddha, which is, according to archaeologists, the finest of all Thai Buddhas. A replica of King Ramkamhaeng’s famous inscription is also on show. This oft-repeated quotation is the earliest example of Thai script and includes the words: ‘In the water there are fish, in the fields there is rice… those who choose to laugh, laugh, those who choose to cry, cry.’
A short walk across the Sukhothai Historical Park (tel: 0 5569 7241; daily 6.30am–7.30pm, tickets sold until 6pm) past the moat brings you to Wat Mahathat, the Temple of the Great Relic. This is Sukhothai’s biggest and finest temple, dating from the 13th century and housing rows of the standing Buddha images known as Phra Attharot.
Loi Krathong
The best time of year to visit Sukhothai is on the full moon of the 12th lunar month (mid-November), when Thailand’s most beautiful and serene festival, known as Loi Krathong, is celebrated. It is believed to have started here some 700 years ago, after one of the king’s concubines fashioned a lantern from carved fruit and sent it floating down the river bearing a lighted candle. Now, thousands of people gather by water all over the country to launch boats made of banana leaves to celebrate the end of the rainy season. Sukhothai has colourful processions and a display of fireworks.
Continue by visiting beautiful Wat Sa Si (Temple of the Splendid Pond), with its graceful image of the walking Buddha and slender chedi shaped like a bell, and Wat Trapang Ngoen, situated around a large lake which floods occasionally during the rainy season. Carry on to the west outside the walled city and you reach Wat Si Chum, with its massive seated Buddha measuring 15m (49ft) from knee to knee, and each finger the size of a person. The sanctuary walls are 3m (10ft) thick and contain a secret passage off to the left just inside the entrance. This passage was used by the king, though for what purpose is not clear.
The massive Buddha at Wat Si Chum, Sukhothai
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The temple of Wat Saphan Hin, 2km (1 mile) west of the city, is known as the Temple of the Stone Bridge, after the slate pathway leading up the hill. It is a long haul to the summit, on which stands a Buddha statue more than 12m (40ft) tall. However, it is a trip that is well worth the effort.
Si Satchanalai
If you still have a craving for more temples, you may like to consider making an afternoon’s excursion to the Si Satchanalai Historical Park (daily 7am–6pm), 55km (34 miles) to the north of Sukhothai. Si Satchanalai is the sister city of Sukhothai, but is wilder and less visited by tourists, with ramshackle temples and an air of faded grandeur. At the top of a steep flight of steps is the ruined Wat Khao Suwan Khiri, which is worth the climb for the views alone.
Hire a bicycle at the entrance to the historical park and explore what many regard as the city’s most impressive temple, Wat Chang Lom (which translates literally as ‘Temple Surrounded by Elephants’). The chedi is surrounded by 39 standing elephants and has a stairway representing a ladder to heaven. Real elephants can usually be found in front of the temple, and it is often possible to get rides around the park.
The Si Satchanalai area was the centre of a ceramics industry during the Sukhothai period. In nearby Ban Ko Noi, a village 4km (2.5 miles) to the north, archaeologists have discovered kilns that might revolutionise historical thinking by proving that the Thais began producing pottery 400 years earlier than the Chinese.
Chinarat Buddha in Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat
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Phitsanulok
A wide river cuts through the heart of Phitsanulok, about 390km (240 miles) to the north of Bangkok, separating the old part of town into two. Although the broad banks of the River Nan can make a pleasant spot to rest, the real attraction is Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat (temple daily 6.30am–6.30pm, antique museum Wed–Sun 9am–4pm).
Believers have been coming here for centuries, praying in front of the renowned golden Chinarat Buddha, famous for its curative powers. The temple, with lovely mother-of-pearl doors from King Boromkot, was built in 1357, and its shrine is so popular that Thai tourists swarm here every day. To meet this demand, a variety of shops in the complex stock pendants, relics and other souvenirs. Apart from Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, there are few reminders of the town’s great history. A giant fire destroyed most of the old town several years ago, and now it is best known for comfortable hotels and as a base for Sukhothai excursions.
Northern Thailand
Stretching up to the borders with Myanmar and Laos, and following the line of the great Mekong River, northern Thailand incorporates some of the most beautiful scenery in the country. This region was once divided into small principalities, which were isolated by the rugged terrain and accessible only by elephant. Even today, the people of the region speak a distinctive dialect – influenced by Burmese and Laotian – and retain their own culinary specialities.
Getting there for today’s visitor, however, is a simpler process. Thai Airways International flies to Chiang Mai in less than an hour from Bangkok, while air-conditioned express buses make the run in about nine hours, and overnight express trains in 12 to 14 hours. On a five-day visit, it is easily possible to explore the area around Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai – and even take a trek among the northern hill tribes.
Orchids
Some of Thailand’s remote areas are happy breeding grounds for over 1,300 different varieties of orchid, ranging from the famous Paphiopedium ascocenda to the elegant ‘Miss Udorn Sunshine’. The best place to see them is at the orchid farms in the area around Chiang Mai, although you only need to look in markets throughout the country to see and appreciate the kingdom’s favourite flower.
Chiang Mai
The capital of the north, Chiang Mai * [map], rises from the banks of the Ping River, bedecked with dazzling flowers, notably orchid blossoms, in the spring. Formerly no more than a hillside Shangri-la, the town has grown rapidly to become both a tourist magnet and a major city in its own right – with the traffic and pollution to match. Several thousand luxury rooms and cheap, cheerful guesthouses are available, as well as European-style bars and restaurants. Tour operators offer countless trips to colourful handicraft villages, hillside temples and mountain tribes.
After the oppressive heat of Bangkok, the more temperate climate of Chiang Mai comes as a relief. The cooler weather is immediately evident (remember to pack a jumper if you are here between October and January), and so too is the abundance of fruit, vegetables and flowers, which can be seen at almost any time of year.
Chiang Mai means ‘New Town’ and was founded by King Mengrai the Great at the end of the 13th century. According to one legend, the city wall – parts of which can still be seen – was built by 90,000 men working in shifts round-the-clock. Mengrai also built various temples and fine buildings, some of which remain and can be explored on foot or by hiring a bicycle or motorbike. Don’t forget to go to the handicraft centres nearby for silk, painted umbrellas and lacquerware.
Inside the city
Start your tour at Wat Chiang Man (daily 8am–5pm), within the old city walls. Built in the 13th century under King Mengrai, it contains two important religious statues, the Crystal and Marble Buddhas – protected behind a railing, bars and glass – which were ancient long before this monastery had been conceived. Sculpted elephants surround a chedi at the rear of the temple.
Walk south for 15 minutes and you reach the huge, ruined Wat Chedi Luang (daily 8am–5pm). Built in the 15th century, it was damaged during an earthquake over 400 years ago. In the temple grounds stands a gigantic gum tree shrouded in silk which, it is said, will continue to grow for as long as the city prospers. Beneath the tree, locals leave wooden elephants and phallic objects as offerings to the guardian spirit of the city.
Ho Trai (scripture library) of Wat Phra Singh
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Continue west to find Wat Phra Singh (daily 8am–5pm), home to a magnificent Buddha statue. According to legend, the icon was on its way to the king when the chariot carrying it broke down in front of the temple. Believing this to be a signal that the image wished to go no further, the people installed it without question, and there it has remained ever since, along with a beautiful library and several fine carvings and sculptures.
The best time of day to visit Wat Suan Dok (daily 8am–5pm), which is off Suthep Road on the city outskirts, is at sunset, when the chedi is bathed in soft light. The ashes of the kings of Lanna are housed within the temple, which is said to hold an important relic of the Buddha.
A final temple not to miss is Wat Jet Yot (daily 8am–5pm), also known as the Seven Peaks because of its seven chedis. Local guides say it was inspired by the great Mahabodhi Temple in India in 1455, during the reign of King Tilokaraja.
Stall at the Night Bazaar in Chiang Mai
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
For visitors who desire other forms of entertainment, drop in at the Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Centre (tel: 0 5321 7793; www.cmocity.com; Tue–Sun 8.30am–5pm) for superb exhibits and interactive displays, or the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre (tel: 0 5320 2993-5; www.oldchiangmai.com; daily 7–9.30pm), a charming old northern-style house, with traditional Lanna dance and hill tribe demonstrations. Alternatively, explore markets like Somphet (Moonmuang Road), or busy Warorot (Wich-yanon Road), where you can try exquisite local delicacies. In the evening, don’t miss the Night Bazaar, on Chang Klan Road, which offers northern handicrafts. You’ll be overwhelmed by the sheer variety, which is probably greater here than at any other market in Thailand. Animal lovers could head to Chiang Mai Zoo and Arboretum (www.chiangmaizoo.com; daily 8am–6pm).
Outside the city
Explore the following temples, villages and other attractions as part of either a half-day tour or a more extended itinerary. At the Chiang Dao Elephant Training Centre (tel: 0 5329 8553; www.chiangdaoelephantcamp.com; daily 8am–5pm, elephant training session at 10am), 56km (35 miles) north from Chiang Mai, you can watch elephants timber-lifting and bathing in the river and then go elephant riding. Years ago, elephants were commonly used throughout the north for transport across inhospitable terrain and for dragging logs to the river, for floating downstream. Today, you can ride on one of the giants of the jungle, and then take a raft trip through the lush countryside.
Silk weaving
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Wooden statues, huge clay pots and coloured paper umbrellas bedeck the road to the village of San Kamphaeng, 13km (8 miles) east of Chiang Mai, which is known as the handicrafts centre of northern Thailand. In the factories and warehouses, you can watch the locals as they weave silk from cocoons or make lacquerware or painted umbrellas. Purchases can be shipped home, and credit cards are widely accepted.
Some 16km (10 miles) northwest of Chiang Mai is the 1,600m (5,120ft) -high peak of Doi Suthep. There are magnificent bird’s eye views of the city and the surroundings from the summit and just below lies the most famous temple in North Thailand, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (daily 6am–5pm). According to legend, during the 14th century a sacred white elephant sought out the site for the foundation of the temple by trumpeting three times and kneeling in homage to the Buddha. From the car park, it is a 300-step hike (or a comfortable funicular ride) to the central gold chedi at the top, with its royal bronze parasols at each corner. The cloister is lined with many important Buddha statues.
Continue another 4 km (2.5 miles) past the temple to reach the Phuphing Palace (tel: 0 5322 3065; www.bhubingpalace.org; open when the royal family is absent, mid-March–Dec daily 8.30am–4.30pm, ticket office closes at 3.30pm), where the Thai king often spends some of the winter. On weekends and holidays, if the royal family is not in residence, the grounds are opened to the public in a blaze of lavish floral displays.
Another attraction in the vicinity is the small Hmong or Meo village called Doi Pui ( [map]. Since it is the most accessible of all Thailand’s hill-tribe villages, you are unlikely to find much authenticity. Still, if you don’t have time to go trekking, the village does give an idea of the hill tribes’ way of life, and includes a visit to the opium museum. Children sell colourful costumes, tasselled bags and primitive handicrafts.
Member of the Akha hill tribe, near Chiang Rai
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
To see the tribes in a more authentic environment, go along with an organised trek into the hills. You will probably have to walk considerable distances and sleep on less than luxurious floors, but with the aid of a guide, you can still locate numerous Karen tribes, who believe in the spirits of the winds and the rains, or the Lahu people, the men wearing silver buckles and black turbans and the women in calf-length tunics with yellow or white embroidery.
Known as the chao doi, the hill tribes are nomadic peoples who have migrated from Tibet and southern China along various routes into Burma, Thailand and Laos. In all, there are some 550,000 people, divided into six tribes: the Karen, Hmong, Akha, Mien, Lisu and Lahu, each with its own distinct dress, language and culture.
Generally, they are highland dwellers who opt to live above 1,000m (3,280ft). They earn a living from foraging, slash-and-burn agriculture and raising domestic livestock such as chickens and black pigs. All inter-tribal trade is done by barter. Traditionally, the chao doi have also shared a common mythology. They believe that they live on top of a dragon and that they have to keep the peace to ensure that it does not move.
Travel agencies in Chiang Mai operate excursions ranging from one-day trips to more rewarding three- and four-day expeditions. Don’t expect too much originality, though – villagers may ask for payment for posing for photos. While some are friendly and seem to be pleased that their colourful bejewelled costumes and simple huts are a centre of attention, others have discarded just about every trace of their traditions, opting instead for jeans, T-shirts and cola.
Trekking agencies
It is always worth dropping in to the tourist office to check which are the reliable trekking companies, as they can change from month to month. Be sure to use a guide who can speak English and, if at all possible, the tribal tongue as well, since this will greatly add to the success of the trip.
Members of the Karen tribe in a village near Mae Sariang
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Lamphun
Although legend has it that the most beautiful women in Thailand are from Lamphun, this is not the only reason for coming to this peaceful, ancient town, which can be found 30km (19 miles) south of Chiang Mai.
A large monastery in the town centre called Wat Phra That Haripunchai (tel: 0 5351 1104; daily 6am–6pm) is a busy educational and meditational institution. The huge, gold chedi in the middle of the monastery was begun over 1,000 years ago, and the workmen who erected it constructed their own simpler version outside the compound; it is now a ruin. Close by and built in modern style is the Haripunchai National Museum (tel: 0 5351 1186; Tue–Sun 9am–4pm), which has a collection of sculptures found in the Lamphun district, dating from the 10th to 12th century.
You can take a pedicab from the centre of Lamphun to Wat Chama Devi (or Kukut; daily 8am–6pm), a temple that owes its existence to Queen Chama Devi, said to have founded it when she ruled the Mon kingdom of Lamphun well over 1,000 years ago. Of the original elements, most memorable is a chedi rising in five tiers with 60 standing Buddha images in stucco around the sides.
Look out for the lamyai orchards that have helped to make this region famous throughout Thailand. This delicious fruit, which is known as ‘longan’ in English, resembles a lychee.
Lampang
Don’t be surprised if you see a horse and carriage trundling down the main road of this beautiful old town, 100km (62 miles) southeast of Chiang Mai – this is a common form of transport in Lampang , [map], and the best way to explore.
There are three temples here that deserve special mention. Wat Phra Fang (daily 8am–5pm) has a tall, golden chedi with seven small shrines around the base. Wat Phra Kaew Don Tao (daily 8am–5pm) reveals Burmese influence and has outstanding carvings. Considered by many to be northern Thailand’s most attractive temple, Wat Phra That Lampang Luang (daily 7.30am–5pm), situated 18km (11 miles) from Lampang near the town of Ko Kha, is worth a visit for its museum and fine Buddha images.
River ride
The most exciting way of arriving in Chiang Rai is not by the route through the hills, nor by the 45-minute flight, but by the least comfortable option of the riverboat from the town of Tha Ton. This is a trip for the adventurous – the boats are both small and narrow, with no toilets, while the engine is as loud (though not as powerful) as that of an aeroplane. Nonetheless, it is worth the effort – the views on the 4-hour journey are spectacular.
Chiang Rai
Chiang Rai ⁄ [map], a city located 180km (111 miles) north of Chiang Mai, is a good base for visiting nearby regional attractions. King Mengrai founded Chiang Rai in the 13th century, by chance so it is said. According to legend, his elephant ran off and took him to a spot on the Mae Kok River, where the scenery and military potential inspired him to build a town.
Hill Tribe Museum, Chiang Rai
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
There are at least two temples worth a visit. At Wat Phra Kaew (tel: 0 5371 1385; www.watphrakaew-chiangrai.com; daily 9am–5pm), you can see a former home of the Emerald Buddha (for more information, click here), the country’s most famous image. At the Burmese-style Wat Doi Chom Thong (daily 8am–5pm), you have the bonus of river views and a glimpse of the town’s old quarter. Meanwhile, the Hill Tribe Museum and Education Centre (www.pdacr.org; Mon–Fri 8.30am–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm) sells ethnic handicrafts, with proceeds donated to hill tribe community projects.
Travel agencies in Chiang Rai operate excursions to the famous hillside temple of Doi Tung (daily 8am–4.30pm), perched 1,800m (5,904ft) high. On the way you pass the former Queen Mother’s summer residence, an agricultural project sponsored by the Thai royal family designed to help hill tribes retain their distinctive traditions while integrating into contemporary life. The project encourages tribespeople to grow strawberries, cucumbers and cabbages, in lieu of opium. In return they receive government assistance in the form of schools and new roads.
Smaller tribal villages can still be found in the mountains north of Chiang Rai and the area around Mae Chan. Be warned, however: pigs, water buffalo and dogs may still wander picturesquely among the stilt houses, but modern life has not passed by unnoticed, and the children will ask for coins or, increasingly, notes. Even among the Yao villages of adobe huts with thatched roofs, many elders have learned a few English words. The women, in red-collared jackets and blue turbans, are usually more interested in selling handicrafts than telling of the Yao’s origins in southern China more than 200 years ago.
Mae Sai and Chiang Saen
You can’t go further north in Thailand than Mae Sai; beyond is the footbridge across the Sai River into Myanmar. This charming little backwater with a sprinkling of markets and guesthouses is a good lunchtime spot on the way to the Golden Triangle. Get there between 6am and 6pm and you’ll see authorised travellers from Myanmar crossing the border into Thailand to sell products such as cheroots, packaged prunes, ivory carvings, lacquer boxes, oranges and, more discreetly, items such as gems and contraband cigarettes. In the market, take your pick from the wonderful Burmese puppets and tapestries known as kalaga, or pay your B10 to photograph children dressed in hill-tribe costume. It is possible to cross the bridge and visit the Burmese border town of Tachilek, although it is still not possible to travel deeper into Burma from here. Occasionally the border is closed for security reasons.
From Mae Sai, tours usually continue the 12km (7.5 miles) to the infamous Golden Triangle, which forms a three-way border between Myanmar, Laos and Thailand. This spot once saw huge quantities of opium being sent across the border, destined for heroin traders overseas. Now the trade is diminishing because of government encouragement to diversify into less sinister crops. Poppies won’t be seen here, since discretion confines cultivation to the less accessible valleys, as well as to those vast areas in Myanmar that are controlled by the so-called ‘opium armies’.
A short drive southeast from Ban Sop Ruak will bring you to the friendly market town of Chiang Saen, set in a marvellous location on the banks of the Mekong River. Despite its dilapidated feel, this sleepy town has a remarkably grand history. From the 10th to 13th centuries it was the seat of power for one of the earliest northern principalities – traces of this glorious past are scattered throughout.
You can easily spend an afternoon exploring a moated city wall, the Wat Phra That Chom Kitti – reputed to house part of Lord Buddha’s forehead – and the ruins of several other temples. Head 10km (6 miles) north of Chiang Saen for the Hall of Opium (tel: 0 5378 4444-6; www.maefahluang.org; Tue–Sun 8.30am–4pm). Set up by Mae Fah Luang Foundation, it uses high-tech interactive displays to chronicle 5,000 years of the use and abuse of opiates. Visitors who have more time for leisurely travelling may also be rewarded with beautiful sunsets over the Mekong, and marvellous views of Laos, just a stone’s throw away.
Lisu hill tribe girls at Mae Hong Son
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Mae Hong Son
December and January are the prime months to visit the town of Mae Hong Son ¤ [map], which lies between mountains 270km (167 miles) northwest of Chiang Mai and is reached by a hair-raising, but staggeringly beautiful, eight-hour road trip – or a less bumpy 30-minute flight. At this time of year, the sky is at its bluest, the winter flowers are in full blossom and the air is cool. It doesn’t really matter which month you come, however, for this town offers no shortage of year-round attractions.
Mae Hong Son
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Prior to 1831, when an expedition was sent here by the king of Chiang Mai in search of the rare white elephant, Mae Hong Son’s history is as misty as its valleys. The expedition was so successful that a small settlement was founded, and by 1874 Mae Hong Son had become a provincial capital.
Although you’re unlikely to see wild elephants, you will come across a number of Burmese-style temples around Mae Hong Son. They include Wat Doi Kong Mu (daily 8.30am–4.30pm), which looks down from the top of the 250m (820ft) -high Doi Kong Mu, and affords views across the green Mae Hong Son valley and towards the neighbouring Shan state. Most people like exploring the market at dawn – when hill-tribe people in traditional dress can sometimes be seen buying vegetables – before going on any one of a variety of tours. Guides arrange elephant-riding and river-rafting, or will drive you to tribal villages at the Burmese border.
Burmese-style temple
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Around Mae Hong Son you may see the Padaung, or ‘long-necked people’, with their collarbones compressed by brass coils stacked up 30cm (1ft) high to make their necks appear longer than normal. Legend has it that the tribe’s ancestors were a female dragon and the wind god, and it was in imitation of the image of the dragon that the women took up the unusual tradition. Inevitably, the reality now is that this appearance is primarily designed to attract tourists.
On leaving Mae Hong Son, drivers and bus passengers could return to Chiang Mai on a circular route via Mae Sariang and Hot, so that towns visited previously are not repeated. On the return journey, the relaxed crossroads town of Pai ‹ [map], a valley hamlet surrounded by mountains, is a good base for trekking. It is also a firm favourite with backpackers, so has a slew of bars with live music.
Sea Gypsies
Nearly 5,000 Chao Lay, or ‘Sea Gypsies’, have their home on the Andaman Sea. Most live in coastal shacks, between Ranong and Ko Tarutao, although the most famous, the Moken, lead a mainly nomadic life moving on boats between islands. They have no written language and their spoken languages are mainly related to Malay. The Chao Lay suffered relatively few casualties in the 2004 tsunami, and it is thought their intimacy with their environment enabled many to read the early warning signs in the sea’s behaviour and flee to higher ground.
Southern Thailand
Southern Thailand, stretching thinly down to Malaysia, gives you a choice of seas. The considerably longer eastern coast is on the Gulf of Thailand, while the west is washed by the Andaman Sea. On both sides you will find sensational beaches, while the land in between – full of rice fields, and coconut and rubber plantations – is as scenic as it is fertile.
Planes fly to Phuket, Ko Samui, and Krabi from Bangkok. Otherwise there are trains and buses, and the opportunity to explore several of the small, picturesque fishing villages along the way.
Phuket
The island of Phuket › [map] (pronounced ‘poo-ket’) is Thailand’s most expensive beach destination, with beautiful beaches and luxurious hotels, in addition to sailing, nightlife and various family attractions. Covering around 810 sq km (313 sq miles) and made up of a mountainous interior, Phuket offers national parks, inland plantations and waterfalls and is the major departure point for diving in the Andaman Sea.
The island attracts over 10 million tourists every year – over 16 times its total population – most of whom arrive by plane (55 minutes from Bangkok), although tourist coaches also make the trip in just over 14 hours, crossing the causeway from the mainland.
Although Phuket has been transformed by the invasion of tourists, and new hotels are almost as abundant as water buffalo, you are nonetheless spoiled by some of the most beautiful scenery and clearest seas in the region.
From the airport, the highway south goes through a dusty village called Thalang A [map], the site of the island’s ancient capital. Burmese invaders besieged and pillaged Thalang in 1809. In an earlier and more positive chapter of history, the city managed to withstand a siege by the Burmese that lasted longer than a month. This battle, in 1785, led to both Lady Chan and her sister Lady Muk being regarded as heroines for taking command of the town’s defence following the death of Lady Chan’s husband, the governor. Statues of these short-haired women warriors stand on a roundabout.
The new capital, also called Phuket or Phuket Town B [map], has a host of shopping centres, cafés and seafood restaurants, along with souvenir shops that sell seashells and locally cultivated – as well as counterfeit – pearls. Jui Tui Temple (daily 8am–5pm) is the centre of the annual October Vegetarian Festival, when people perform acts of self-mutilation, including piercing their cheeks with skewers. It is believed that thanks to these acts Chinese gods will protect them against evil.
Phuket Orchid Garden and Thai Village (tel: 0 7628 0226; daily 9am–5.30pm) has traditional dances, elephant shows and a handicraft centre, while on Yaowaraj Road, Chillvamarket (daily 5–11pm) has a selection of eateries and shops, with frequent, free, live music events taking place, making it popular with locals.
Most visitors, however, find it hard to tear themselves away from the island’s beaches. Water sports of all kinds are offered, from waterskiing to paragliding, and windsurfers, catamarans and yachts can be hired. Fresh seafood makes for memorable meals, and most will, at some stage, treat themselves to the famous Phuket lobster, which is best eaten grilled and with a dash of lime.
Preparing to parasail off Phuket
John Ishii/Apa Publications
Beaches and islands
The best beaches are on the western coast of the island, where fine, white sand slopes gently into the Andaman Sea (Indian Ocean). Patong Beach C [map], 15km (9 miles) west of Phuket Town by paved road, used to be the island’s most beautiful, but has become over-developed, packed with bungalows, hotels, restaurants, bars, pubs and clubs. You will also find the Phuket Simon Cabaret (tel: 0 7634 2011-5; www.phuket-simoncabaret.com; daily showtimes 6pm, 7.30pm and 9pm) with its kathoey, or ‘ladyboy’ shows. From Patong, visitors can take a 45-minute longtail boat ride to Freedom Beach, located just around the headland.
North of Patong are the lovely Bang Thao and Pansea beaches, the latter home to the Amanpuri Hotel, one of the most exclusive addresses on the island. At Kamala beach, the popular Phuket Fantasea (tel: 0 7638 5000; www.phuket-fantasea.com; theme park Fri–Wed 5.30–11.30pm, showtime 9pm) has shows combining acrobatics, pyrotechnics and performing animals.
South of Patong, the wide beaches of Kata and Karon have an abundance of family resorts, while further south, at Nai Harn, is the sophisticated cliffside hideaway of The Royal Phuket Yacht Club.
It is possible to hire a Jeep to tour the island, but some roads are steep and accidents are not uncommon. The most dramatic viewpoint is the Laem Promthep D [map] promontory.
The sea views from Phuket are dotted with 30 or so uninhabited islands, to which owners of long-tailed boats operate excursions for picnics and/or snorkelling. Scuba diving is first rate, either on liveaboard or day boats, with plenty of coral and brilliantly hued fish. The most favoured diving destination is the Similan Islands fi [map], which have National Marine Park status. Deep-sea fishing expeditions can be arranged to catch mackerel, barracuda and sailfish.
Island escapes
Adventurers can escape the crowds by hiring boats to more distant, uninhabited islands – just make sure that before leaving you agree on the price and the number of islands that you will be visiting.
Excursions from Phuket
Phuket travel agencies offer a variety of day-long excursions. Anyone who knows the James Bond film The Man with the Golden Gun will not want to miss visiting dramatic Phang Nga Bay fl [map], which contains the superb rock formations featured in the film. Long-tailed boats skim through the mangrove into a dreamscape of mad mountain tops, and at two points of the journey sail through tunnels beneath limestone islands.
Phang Nga Bay
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On the way they will stop at Ko Panyi, where the Muslim fishing people have built a village on stilts above the sea and now enjoy the attention of thousands of tourists, who buy their woodwork and fresh fish. The real highlight, though, is Ko Tapu (literally ‘Nail Island’), which was formed thousands of years ago as a result of an earthquake. The island rises straight up out of the water to a height of 200m (656ft).
A separate excursion is offered to Ko Phi Phi ‡ [map], which consists of two islands, Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Leh. Boats leave from Phuket daily and the trip south lasts two hours. Day tours will take you to the Viking Cave and to beautiful Khai Nai. Tours will also, when possible, stop at the popular Maya Bay, made famous in Danny Boyle’s film The Beach. However, access to tourists is being restricted to allow extensive coral reef damage to recover. Underwater enthusiasts can explore some of the richest marine life to be found in the Andaman Sea. Fish are not the only attraction either, for high up in the sea cliffs live a vast number of sea swallows. The nests that the birds build so industriously at great heights are collected at considerable risk to the islanders – it is a profitable export business, supplying Chinese restaurants with the raw material for that expensive delicacy of bird’s-nest soup. Locals believe that the soup will cure skin and lung problems as well as impotence and loss of appetite. Such is the demand that some nests fetch prices as high as US$1,000 each.
The bow of a long tail by Phi Phi Don
John Ishii/Apa Publications
Ko Samui
Backpackers long ago thought that they could keep Ko Samui ° [map] secret. However, this palm-fringed island, just three hours from the busy seaport town of Surat Thani, has become one of the best-known havens in the south, with idyllic accommodation and even an airport. Not that it has necessarily spoilt the laid-back feel of the place, for people are still coming here to laze on the beaches, eat excellent seafood and be pampered at one of the sumptuous spas.
Honeymooners and comfort seekers often stay on Chaweng Beach, which is arguably the most beautiful stretch, although packed with restaurants and discos. If you want something more chilled, head to Bo Phut, Maenam and Choeng Mon beaches. For cheaper accommodation, head for the south.
A plethora of beach sports are offered, as well as tennis, waterfall trips and even an excursion to a coconut-picking farm. For an afternoon diversion, you can hire a motor-cycle or Jeep to tour the island. The road follows the coast almost all the way round, though you should stop off at Lamai to see the erotic rock formations known to all as ‘grandfather’ and ‘grandmother’ rocks. Remember that the roads here are steep – and tourists with grazed knees are a fairly common sight. A safer means of transport is a songthaew (covered pickup truck with seats), which run almost 24 hours.
Beyond Samui
Samui is the largest island in an archipelago of 80 islands that also includes the party haven of Ko Pha Ngan, the dive mecca of Ko Tao, and the stunning uninhabited ruggedness of Ang Thong National Marine Park. Ferries and speed boats shuttle visitors daily between the various shorelines, with Ko Pha Ngan being the closest.
Geared more toward backpackers than luxe travellers, Ko Pha Ngan is best known for its legendary Full Moon Party on Hat Rin beach. Attracting thousands of revellers each month, the party is synonymous with drug taking, despite local authorities attempting to stem the narco-consumption.
Snorkellers off Ko Tao
John Ishii/Apa Publications
Far more tranquil is a day tour of the 40 wild islets and lagoons that comprise the beautiful Ang Thong National Marine Park (www.angthongmarinepark.com), which inspired the fictitious island paradise in Alex Garland’s 1996 novel The Beach. Further north is Ko Tao (Turtle Island), a small, pretty island with a relaxed atmosphere. Most visitors come here for the quality dive sites, with the numerous dive shops being the island’s mainstay.
Nakhon Si Thammarat
Thailand’s most southerly provinces are plagued with Muslim separatist violence, and most governments warn against visiting Narathiwat, Yala, Pattani and Songkhla. This means fewer visitors to the area, and consequently the safe provinces are less developed and have plenty of quiet beaches and a genuine local flavour.
Nakhon Si Thammarat’s National Museum (daily 8am–5pm) has one of Thailand’s most important historical collections outside Bangkok. The town is also home to the country’s most famous maker and performer of nang thalung leather shadow puppets, and Suchart Subsin’s Shadow Puppet Workshop (tel: 0 7534 6394; daily 8.30am–4.30pm) sells puppets and stages performances for a small donation.
Mermaid origins
Legends about seductive mermaids are believed to be based on sightings of the dugong, an inhabitant of the waters around Ko Tarutao. These strange mammals, related to the elephant, and dubbed the ‘sea cow’, roam the seas from Australia to East Africa, staying underwater for up to six minutes at a time. Hunters prize them for meat, oil, skin, bones and teeth, and despite them being legally protected, dugongs remain an endangered species.
Satun
While Satun Town’s only real attraction is Satun National Museum (tel: 0 7472 3140; Wed–Sun 9am–4pm) and its Muslim lifestyle exhibitions, offshore lies Ko Tarutao Marine National Park · [map] (mid-Nov–mid-May). Consisting of 51 islands, it has Thailand’s best coral reefs and is believed to harbour 25 percent of the world’s tropical fish species. Wildlife includes whales, dolphins and dugongs, while the largest island, Ko Tarutao, offers hiking and cave exploring. The park headquarters have basic accommodation. In the 1930s and 40s Thai prisoners were exiled to Ko Tarutao, and in 2002 a series of the American reality TV show Survivor was filmed here.
Some 50km (30 miles) west, there are good dive spots at Ko Rawi, Ko Yang and Ko Hin Sorn.