Chef’s Tip

For videos of the tips in these sections, visit www.youtube.com and type in “Chef Nicole Roarke”.

Mise en Place

Mise en place [MEEZ-ahn-plahs] is a French term that literally means “set or put in place.” Mise en place refers to a chef’s setup of essential ingredients and tools that are necessary to begin the actual cooking process. Before beginning any recipe, it is important to:

1. Have all the ingredients and equipment readily accessible.

2. Read the entire recipe and make sure that you understand all of the instructions and steps that you need to follow. If your mise en place is set out and organized right in front of you, it allows for a steady flow of production. Essentially, organization leads to less error. For most professional and at-home chefs, a mise en place consists of:

Kosher salt: Keep readily accessible in a small finger pot.

Freshly cracked black pepper: Keep in a refillable pepper mill with whole black peppercorns.

Blended oil (see below).

3. Flour/cornstarch: Not only is flour or cornstarch essential for baking, they oftentimes act as a thickening agent.

4. Sugar/honey: Just as a pinch of salt is added to almost all baking recipes to bring out the sweetness and balance the flavor, I add a pinch of sugar or a tablespoon of honey to my savory soups and sauces. I believe that this creates a well-rounded depth of flavor.

Blended Oil

The term “blended oil” refers to two or more oils combined together and bottled as one oil blend. Professional chefs and cooks may purchase this bottled oil blend from industry suppliers featuring various ratios of oils, but we will show you how to make your very own blend at home.

A blended oil typically includes a higher percentage of a mild tasting, light-bodied, and inexpensive oil that has a high smoke point. In other words, the oil can reach the high temperatures needed for deep and shallow frying, sautéing, and stir-frying. The most common of these oils include, but are not limited to, canola, corn, vegetable, soybean, peanut, grapeseed, or zero-trans-fat frying oil.

A blended oil also includes a lower percentage of a flavorful, costly, richly colored, and dense-bodied oil. Some favorite oils are virgin olive, extra-virgin olive, sesame, and truffle oil. Most possess a low smoke point, meaning that these oils begin smoking, then burning, and often catching fire when heated to high temperatures. Alone, these oils are best used to drizzle over a finished dish, to add toward the end of the cooking process, or when preparing a pesto, vinaigrette, or any other cold sauce.

An example of a blended oil is one with 90% soybean oil and 10% olive oil. To prepare your own blended oil, mix two or more of your favorite oils in a mixing bowl, and store at room temperature for 3 months. (If using garlic oil, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Do not keep homemade and untreated garlic oils for any longer than 3 days.)

Be sure to use a higher ratio of the high-smoke-point oil to the low-smoke-point oil if you plan on cooking with the blended oil. If the blended oil will be used for vinaigrette or marinade, any combination of oil is permitted.

Reduction

The desired consistency of a reduction should be a little thicker than syrup and thinner than honey. Not only will the liquid that you are reducing thicken as it reduces in volume, but its flavor concentrates will also produce a rather sweet finish.

The success of this single-ingredient recipe is solely based on technique and some helpful “tricks of the trade.” Below is an example of a balsamic vinegar reduction:

Choose a shallow pan to maximize the surface area of the vinegar, which enables the volume to reduce faster and more evenly without having to stir it.

Bring the vinegar to a boil over medium-high heat, and then immediately lower to a simmer. Allow the vinegar to reduce by half of its original volume. Check its consistency by dipping a spoon into the reduction. It should coat the back of the spoon when removed. If the reduction slides off the spoon, it is still too thin; allow it to continue to reduce to approximately two-thirds of its original volume.

If it has over-reduced, it will be thick and sticky like molasses and will taste bitter. As it cools, it will harden like tar. Unfortunately, there is no way of reversing over-reduction, and the mixture will have to be discarded. This mistake is quite tough to remove from your pan, but a great trick is to fill the pan with water and bring to a boil (this will loosen any over-reduced vinegar from the pan, which can then be simply poured out, and should be easy to wash out). This trick is also great for any burnt or caked-on food that is tough to remove.

Citrus Zest

The “zest” of any citrus fruit (such as lemon, lime, grapefruit, and orange) is only the outermost colorful edge of the citrus. It is important to understand exactly where the zest is because just underneath the surface of the zest is what is known as the pith of the rind, which is extremely bitter. The zest is considered the most flavorful part, and can be used to infuse citrus flavor into a wide range of recipes. Using the zest as opposed to the juice allows you to extract the flavor without sacrificing the consistency of your recipe, which would otherwise “break” or curdle if the juice were added to the recipe’s other ingredients, such as cream or milk.

A great “trick” is to run the side of the citrus along a microplane, because the small, sharp teeth will gently scrape off the zest without cutting deeply into the bitter skin. The microplane should remain stationary (over a bowl or measuring cup), and only the citrus should be scraping up and down the sharp surface of the plane. When scraping the citrus against the microplane, roll or rotate it in your hand so no one area of the citrus is over-zested. If the recipe calls for large strips of zest, use a vegetable peeler to remove the large strips.

If the strip of zest contains white, bitter pith, place the strip zest-side-down on the edge of a cutting board, and hold the knife parallel to the zest. Press the blade against the zest and, with large strokes, shave off as much of the white as possible.

If you are succeeding at this “trick,” you will notice that the area where the zest was removed will appear to be smooth and have a lighter shade of the citrus’ color. For instance, if you are zesting a lemon after running and rolling it over the plane, you will remove the bright yellow outer edge, but a lighter tint of yellow should remain. If you are over-zesting, you will see the white pith of the rind exposed.

Compound Butter

Classic compound butters are made with chopped herbs, minced shallots, roasted garlic, citrus zest, roasted peppers, sliced olives, sundried tomatoes, toasted nuts, cheese (such as gorgonzola or Parmesan), honey, maple syrup, caramelized onions, and/or freshly cracked black peppercorns. It is a simple way to customize the flavor and texture of an otherwise unsalted butter. This can be served with just about anything, including freshly baked bread, roasted vegetables, and pan-seared meat.

To make your own compound butter, remove the whole butter out of the refrigerator and cut it into pieces (if you are making 1 stick, then cut into 8 tablespoons; for a whole pound, cut all 4 sticks into 32 tablespoons). This will spread out the surface area of the butter so it will soften faster. Set aside and allow the butter to come to room temperature (do not melt the butter). While the butter is softening to a spreadable consistency, prepare your other ingredients (any and all combinations of ingredients should always be fully cooked and cooled before combining with the room-temperature butter).

Place the fully softened butter into a standing mixer, and whip the butter with the paddle attachment until a smooth consistency is reached. Then add your ingredients and mix until fully combined. If you do not have a standing mixer, you can place the fully softened butter into a mixing bowl, and stir with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula until smooth. Fold in the remaining ingredients until combined.

Compound butter can be served in a small bowl at room temperature. To store the compound butter, tightly roll it into a log with waxed paper and/or plastic wrap, and then twist the ends closed. Store in the freezer.

When needed, simply cut a medallion straight from the frozen log, and then remove the waxed paper and/or plastic wrap. Serve immediately; the butter will begin to melt over hot food.

How to Prepare Avocadoes

Removing the buttery, rich, green flesh of an avocado may seem daunting if you have never done it before, but this method makes it rather easy. Stand the avocado upright on a cutting board. Using a large chef’s knife, cut downward through the top until your knife reaches the large pit in the center (do not remove your knife and allow the avocado to fall to its side). While holding the knife in place, spin the avocado around so the knife continues to cut the entire way around the pit. Remove your knife.

With one hand on each side, twist the avocado in half. In one half of the avocado, you will see the large center pit. Lay this half skin-side-down on your cutting board with the pit facing upward. Carefully whack your knife into the middle of the pit. The blade should remain in the pit while you twist the knife (this should loosen the pit so that when you pull your knife out, the pit should be attached to the blade of the knife). Carefully remove the pit from the blade and discard.

You can take a large, metal spoon and simply scoop the flesh out of each half. Or, you can “score” the flesh with the tip of your knife by making several vertical cuts and then several horizontal cuts through the flesh of the avocado (this will make a cross-hatch cut, like a tic-tac-toe board). To remove the scored flesh, either scoop out with a spoon or, if the avocado is very ripe, you can simply squeeze the skin, and the flesh will come out.

If you are making a guacamole or looking for a smooth consistency of avocado, you can sprinkle with a coarse ground salt (such as kosher salt), and mash with a fork.

Avocados are extremely prone to browning when exposed to air. To avoid this natural oxidation, add a citric acid such as lime or lemon juice to the cut avocado or guacamole.

When storing, press a layer of plastic wrap directly against the cut avocado or guacamole, and then add an additional piece of plastic wrapped tightly around the storage container or bowl (this is an extra prevention measure taken to preserve the bright green flesh and avoid oxidation).

Garlic

How to Peel Garlic

Most professional chefs do not care to rely on gadgets and gizmos that are used for one specific task, like garlic peelers. Instead, I will share with you a few tricks of the trade that I have learned.

For minced or chopped garlic: Lay the garlic clove on a cutting board, take the flat surface of a chef’s knife, and lay it on top of the garlic. Smash your fist against the flat-side of the blade. Now, remove the peels. This releases a lot of the flavorful oils from the garlic and helps to break it down so mincing it into smaller pieces is easy.

For whole peeled garlic cloves: Loosen the garlic cloves from the head and place individual cloves into a small, metal mixing bowl. Cover the mixing bowl with a second similar-sized metal mixing bowl to create a dome. Shake the two bowls vigorously enough to hear the garlic cloves bouncing around inside. Do this for 60 seconds. Once you remove the cover, you will find that the garlic peels have come off with little to no effort.

How to Prepare Garlic

There are so many ways to incorporate the flavor of garlic into your recipe. Raw garlic can sometimes be a bit strong (especially if you bite into a large piece), and the unexpected crunch of raw garlic overpowers any additional flavors. The following preparations are some of my favorite ways to incorporate garlic’s strong aroma and flavor.

Roasted garlic: This technique uses a combination cooking method so the garlic roasts within the circulating dry heat of the oven while it steams in the foil pouch. The roasting lends to garlic’s unmistakable golden color, and the steaming makes the cloves soft and spreadable.

Keeping the entire head of garlic intact, make one large cut, removing ⅛-inch or ¼-inch off the top (opposite end of the root). Without cutting off too much of the garlic, expose each individual clove within the head.

Place the head, cut-side facing upward, onto a small piece of foil. Pour a teaspoon of your favorite oil over the head of garlic. Add a pinch of kosher salt, freshly cracked pepper, or a few leaves of your favorite herbs, such as rosemary, basil, or oregano.

Bring the edges of the foil up around the garlic, creating a pouch. Place the pouch of foil onto a sheet pan. Place the sheet pan on the middle rack of a 350°F oven for approximately 35 to 45 minutes. Check that the garlic is golden brown and soft by inserting a skewer/toothpick into a clove; there should be absolutely no resistance. If so, remove from the oven and open the pouch to cool. Once cool, squeeze the root-side of the head to remove the individual cloves.

Poached garlic: Once you learn this technique, you may find yourself poaching all the garlic that comes your way so you will always have soft, sweet poached garlic on hand at all times.

You can purchase whole-peeled garlic cloves so the bulk of your work is already done for you, although it does cost more than purchasing whole heads of garlic, removing all the cloves, and tediously peeling each one.

Place all the whole-peeled garlic cloves into a saucepan or pot. Cover the garlic with oil (such as vegetable, canola, corn, grapeseed, or extra-virgin olive oil).

Place the sauce pot over medium-low heat and bring the oil to a poaching temperature of 165°F to 180°F If you do not have a long-stemmed thermometer, simply heat the oil until you see small bubbles forming on the top, outer edge of the oil where it touches the pot. If the oil is too hot, it will essentially deep-fry the garlic, which will make the outside the correct color, although the center of the garlic will still be raw and crunchy. Do not stir the garlic.

Continue poaching the garlic until it is soft. Remove the pot from the heat and cool to room temperature before use. You may choose to strain it, and use both the poached garlic and the garlic-infused oil.

Garlic paste: This method of preparing garlic is ideal for recipes that require the garlic to be raw, such as Caesar salad dressing, pico de gallo, or tomato bruschetta.

Begin by removing all the cloves from the head of garlic. Place the garlic on a cutting board, use the flat-side of a knife blade to smash each clove of garlic, and remove the peels. Discard all of the peels and wipe the cutting board clean.

Place the smashed cloves in the center of the cutting board. Begin to chop them roughly until the pieces are small enough to start mincing. Continue mincing the garlic until it is as finely chopped as you can get it.

Sprinkle the finely minced garlic with a pinch of coarse ground salt (such as kosher salt). The salt will draw the moisture out of the garlic and help break down the solid compound into a smooth, paste-like consistency.

Use the flat side of the blade, again, but, this time, crush and bruise the salted minced garlic between the flat blade and the cutting board. Do this until a smooth, fragrant garlic paste remains.

This garlic paste can now be whisked into a vinaigrette, pesto, herb oil, or just about anything in which you want raw garlic flavor without an offensive raw garlic bite.

Chiles

There are essentially two types of peppers—sweet bell peppers and spicy chiles. Chiles (such as jalapeño, red and green habañero, and poblano) contain a compound known as capsaicin, which is strongest on the white ribs found inside the chile, and is responsible for making it spicy.

When handling chiles, you should take caution to wear disposable gloves. Otherwise, the oil will permeate your hands, and can be easily transferred to anything else you touch, such as your face, eyes, mouth, and other foods. After removing the gloves, be sure to wash and sanitize your hands and any equipment that you have used (such as knives and cutting boards).

How to Remove Ribs and Seeds

In order to enjoy a milder version of chiles, you can remove the fiery inside and consume only the colorful flesh. Here is an easy way to remove the ribs and seeds of your chiles:

Lay the chile flat on your cutting board, and cut it in half from the stem to the tip. Then cut each half, again, from the stem to the tip so you have four quarter cuts.

Lay the chile skin-side-down on the edge of the cutting board. Hold your knife parallel to the cutting board, and slice from the tapered end of the chile through the stem, removing the seeds and rib with one cut. Repeat this technique with the remaining three-quarters. You should now be left with the colorful flesh to cut into julienne strips or small dices, depending on what your recipes calls for.

If using char-grilled or fire-roasted chiles, leave them whole to roast, and, after removing the skin, follow the procedure above to remove the ribs.

Roasting Peppers and Chiles

Below are two suggested ways to roast peppers/chiles.

Oven-roasting for a milder version: Lightly coat the outside of the peppers with a bit of blended oil. Place the glossy peppers on a shallow sheet pan, and place in a preheated, 450°F oven for approximately 30 minutes, or under a broiler until the outer skin is blistered and/or shriveled, and the inner flesh is soft and has released juice. Occasionally turn the peppers so they blister evenly.

Char-roasting or fire-roasting: Do not coat the peppers with oil, as this would burn over a direct flame. Place the peppers directly on the stove-top burner and turn on high heat (for gas stove tops or grills). Ideally, the flame will get close enough to touch the skin and ultimately scorch it. Periodically rotate the peppers once each side is fully blackened and charred. Repeat this technique until the entire pepper is charred black. Immediately place each charred pepper into a metal mixing bowl, and quickly cover with tightly fitting plastic wrap to trap the steam that will build between the layer of charred skin and sweet, juicy roasted flesh. The top of the plastic wrap will bubble outward as it fills with steam, and the inside will be covered in condensation. Once cooled, the plastic wrap should appear deflated. Uncover the bowl and check to see if you can now handle the roasted peppers. Wipe off the charred skin with a dry or slightly damp towel, but never wash off the charred skin with water, as this will remove a lot of the natural smoky, rustic flavor that has been created. Once all the skin is removed, the flesh will be soft enough to be hand-torn or sliced open to remove and discard the stem, ribs, and seeds. Cut or puree as desired.

Nuts and Seeds

Anytime you come across nuts or seeds (such as almonds, hazelnuts, coconut, pumpkin seeds, or sesame seeds), regardless if the recipe is for a savory dish or a sweet dessert, I always recommend toasting them. Nuts and seeds contain an exuberant amount of natural oil, which, when heated, will be extracted and produce a golden color and strong aroma.

This task, however, does require caution, as nuts are one of the most commonly burnt items in professional kitchens.

I would not advise adding additional oil or butter to the pan, as the natural oil that is released when heated is all that will be necessary to gently toast the nuts. Below are two methods for toasting:

• Spread the nuts or seeds in a single layer on a sheet tray, and place in a preheated 375°F oven for 2 to 10 minutes depending on their size.

• Spread the nuts or seeds in a single layer in a sauté pan. Toast on the stove top while constantly stirring or flipping them (if the nuts stay in one place in the pan over direct heat, they will scorch or burn rather than toasting evenly).

Never crush or chop the nuts before you toast them. Only do so after they have toasted and cooled. When chopped ahead of time, the inconsistent shapes and sizes will cause them to toast unevenly, and the smaller fragments will burn while the larger ones do not get enough color. This will make your entire mixture taste bitter.

You should also never toast two or more different varieties of nuts or seeds in the same pan at the same time. Each is a different size, and will require different cooking times. As such, always toast different nuts and seeds in separate pans.

Nuts and seeds are often quite costly, especially in a professional environment. Because of this, I always instruct my cooks to toast them in separate small batches. This way, if you do, in fact, burn them, you will not lose the entire stock, and the monetary damage will not be as severe.

The cooking time varies depending upon the size and shape of the nuts and seeds, as well as the heat source and temperature. Because there are several variables, it is difficult to say exactly how long they will take to toast, but what is an absolute surety is they do not take much time, at all. I frequently check them in 2-minute increments until well-toasted. You will often smell the scent in the air when they are ready. Halfway through the cooking process, I will often rotate the pan to avoid unevenly cooking due to “hot spots” in your oven. I also use a heat-resistant or flat metal spatula to flip the nuts or seeds often to ensure even color.

Standard Breading Procedure

This procedure is meant for food that will be baked, pan/shallow-fried, or deep-fried. First, prepare the “dry” flour mixture (typically, the main ingredient is all-purpose flour, although you may use a whole-wheat, rye, or rice flour). I always add cornstarch to this dry mixture. The ratio that I follow is 2:1, meaning 2 parts flour to 1 part cornstarch. This trick lends to the crispy and crunchy texture characteristic of fried food. Season the flour mixture. Use your imagination; in addition to using kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, paprika is fantastic for adding a bit of color, and spices such as curry, cinnamon, and cayenne will add a great depth of flavor. Place the flour mixture into a large, shallow pan. The pan should be large enough to lay the dredging item flat.

Secondly, prepare the “wet” egg mixture. Always beat the eggs well in a separate bowl, and then add to a large, shallow pan. I always add 1 or 2 tablespoons of water, milk, or buttermilk to the egg mixture. This lends to a creamy texture to the eggs, which act as an adhesive between the dry ingredients.

Lastly, prepare the “dry” breadcrumb mixture. Typically, this is Italian-style breadcrumbs, although I love the Japanese-style “panko” breadcrumbs (found in the international foods’ aisle of most grocery stores). Panko is characteristically light, and adds a lot of texture to fried foods. You can also season this mixture with kosher salt, freshly cracked black pepper, and minced fresh herbs. Other flavor additives include Parmesan cheese, sesame seeds, and toasted coconut. Avoid adding fresh garlic or onion when deep frying, as this will often burn and add a bitter flavor.

To assemble, place the flour mixture, egg mixture, and breadcrumb mixture side by side, in that order. When dredging in the flour mixture, be sure to completely coat the entire surface area of the food item, and pat it off to remove excess flour that would otherwise burn in the oil. Next, fully submerge the food item into the egg mixture. Finally, place it into the breadcrumb mixture until fully coated. Another great trick is to lay fully coated food onto a flat pan, being careful not to overcrowd it, and place the pan uncovered in the refrigerator for 30 minutes before frying. This helps to adhere the breading onto the food item.

Seasoning

Coating food with dry seasoning may seem like a simple task, but, by following the procedure below, you can be sure to do it as evenly and adequately as possible every time. First, combine the dry seasoning (such as kosher salt, freshly cracked black pepper, and dry spices) in a small bowl and mix well. Set aside. Lay the food flat on a cutting board or sheet pan. Pinch a generous amount of the dry seasoning and hold your hand approximately 12 inches above the food. Sprinkle the dry seasoning onto the food while simultaneously moving your hand side to side (this should mimic falling snow).

Emulsification

The emulsification process combines two or more ingredients that do not typically mix in order to create one stable sauce or dressing. Examples of emulsified food include hollandaise sauce, mayonnaise, and vinaigrettes.

Vinaigrettes are made with a ratio of 3:1, meaning 3 parts oil to 1 part vinegar. Vinegar and oil do not mix by nature, but, by following this procedure, it is possible to emulsify these ingredients together.

In a large mixing bowl, place 1 part vinegar and any other flavorful ingredients (such as garlic paste, roasted garlic, onions, shallots, herbs, spices, fruit, or citrus), and set aside at room temperature for 20 minutes. This allows the flavor to infuse the vinegar.

Next, whisk in a binder. This ingredient acts as the glue that aides in keeping the oil and vinegar together. Binders include mustard, honey, and egg yolks (some recipes will call for one or all three).

Measure three parts oil in a volume measuring cup or a cup that has a spout for easy pouring. While vigorously whisking the vinegar mixture, slowly pour the oil in a steady stream. Be sure to add the oil slowly and continuously until all of the oil has been added, and do not stop whisking during this entire process. The mixture should get thicker as more oil is added. If emulsified properly, this mixture will remain stable for 3 days in the refrigerator.

Simple Syrup

This mixture is easy to make, and lasts for 5 days in the refrigerator. It is always prepared with equal parts of granulated sugar and water. It is often used to sweeten beverages such as iced tea, lemonade, and alcoholic cocktails, as well as desserts like sorbet or berry coulis.

Add one part water to a small saucepan and place over a medium-high flame. Immediately stir in one part granulated sugar and bring the mixture to a low simmer. Allow this mixture to reduce by half of its original volume, creating a syrupy consistency. Remove from the pan and pour into a heat-resistant container to cool.

Tomato Concasse

Many chefs and cooks use canned, peeled, and diced or crushed tomatoes, which are perfectly acceptable when preparing tomato-based recipes. A higher quality product can be achieved, however, when you make your own, known as a tomato concasse.

Use a small paring knife or vegetable peeler, and remove the stem. Score the tomato using a paring knife by making two shallow cuts in the shape of an “X” on the bottom of the tomato (opposite end from the stem).

Blanch the tomatoes by fully submerging the prepared tomatoes in salted, boiling water (212°F) for 1 to 2 minutes. Once the skins loosen, remove from the water with a spider or slotted spoon. Shock the tomatoes by fully submerging them in iced water (32°F), also known as an ice bath. Once cool, the skins should peel off easily (use a paring knife if you have any difficulty). Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise, and either squeeze out the seeds or continue to cut the tomatoes in half, again.

Place the 4 quarters flesh-side-down on the edge of a cutting board. With your knife held parallel to the board, make one cut from the tapered end of the tomato straight through the stem-side. This should remove all the seeds and ribs. Dice the peeled and seeded tomatoes.

Some recipes require you to only blanch and shock fruits and vegetables without any further preparation, whereas other recipes direct you to continue peeling and discarding the skin, and keep the item whole for further use (see Sausage-Spinach Calzones with Marinara Sauce, this page).

How to Thicken a Sauce or Soup

To prepare a slurry, dissolve ½ cup of cornstarch into ¼ to ½ cup of cold liquid or water until a heavy cream consistency is reached. Bring your recipe (for example, sauce or soup) to a boil, and whisk in the slurry. Return to a simmer (5 to 7 minutes). If you add cornstarch directly to your recipe, it will clump and not alter the thickness, which is why it is necessary to mix the cornstarch with cold water or any other cold, flavorful liquid (such as wine, stock, or juice) ahead adding it to your recipe.

Citrus Bath

When cutting up apples to serve on a cheese platter or for dipping into a fondue, you can prevent the apples from oxidizing by making a “citrus bath,” which is essentially an anti-browning solution. Squeeze lemon juice into cold water, and cover your whole or sliced apples with the mixture. Leave them in this solution until ready to use.

Preparing Fresh Corn

If using fresh corn kernels in your recipe: After you have shucked the corn, stand the cob upright on a cutting board. Cut kernels off the cob by slicing downward and rotating the cob until all the kernels are removed. Put the corn kernels in a large bowl, and add water until it reaches 1 inch above the kernels. Let it sit for 5 minutes to allow the impurities and silk to rise to the top. Using a wire-mesh strainer or a slotted spoon, skim the silk. Drain and repeat the process 3 times until the water begins to run clear.

If using corn on the cob in your recipe: After shucking the corn, remove as much of the silk as possible by hand. Another easy trick for removing the silk is to use a soft-bristle toothbrush and comb out the fine silk. Rinse thoroughly and cook as directed.

If using cooked corn in your recipe: Boil water in a large pot, turn the heat off, and place 1 cup of milk and 1 tablespoon each of sugar and salt into the water. Return to a boil. Place the shucked and cleaned ears into the water. Turn the water off, and keep the corn in the water for 10 minutes until tender. You can now keep the corn in the water so it will stay warm until ready to serve.

Basic Recipe for Vegetable Stock

Makes 2 quarts

1. Fill a stock or large sauce pot with vegetable trimmings from your stock bin. For example, use 1 yellow onion, 2 carrots, 1 bunch of celery, and fresh herbs such as bay leaf, thyme, parsley stems, rosemary, and peppercorns.

2. Add cold water (just covering the vegetables), bring to a boil, and immediately reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 1 hour.

3. Remove from the heat and let cool for 30 minutes.

4. Strain contents through a colander, and then a second time through a fine-mesh strainer called a chinois.

5. If you prefer a darker stock, add 2 tablespoons of tomato paste and any tomato trimmings that you have.

Most chefs agree not to salt the stock. Use the stock as a basic foundation for a soup or sauce that can be further flavored or salted later. This way, you can control the amount of salt that goes into the finished product.

Basic Recipe for White Chicken Stock

Makes 2 quarts

1. Fill a large stock pot with raw or cooked chicken, including gizzards, bones, trimmings, and neck—do not use internal organs (e.g., liver or kidneys). Also include vegetable trimmings (for example, 1 yellow onion, 2 carrots, 1 bunch of celery, and fresh herbs such as bay leaf, thyme, parsley stems, rosemary, and peppercorns).

2. Add cold water to just cover the chicken parts and vegetables.

3. Allow to simmer for at least 1 hour, but no more than 2 hours.

4. Remove from the heat. Allow it to cool for 30 minutes.

5. Strain contents through a colander, and then a second time through a fine-mesh strainer called a chinois. If the stock is for immediate use, skim off any excess fat from the top of the stock with a large spoon or ladle, and discard. If the stock is to be used at a later date, cool in the refrigerator; the fat will rise to the top and solidify, which can easily be removed with a large spoon before use.

Basic Recipe for Brown Chicken Stock

If you prefer a dark stock, coat the chicken bone with vegetable oil, and roast in an oven for approximately 20 to 30 minutes at 350°F until a brown color is achieved. Then proceed as above, but include an 8-ounce can of tomato paste and any tomato trimmings that you have on hand.

Now, it is up to you to season with salt to taste. Otherwise, use as a flavor foundation.