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Abbaye de Belloc, 452
aged Tuscan pecorino, Carlo’s farro salad with, 106
aïllade, pistachio, grilled asparagus with, 98–100
aïoli, 289–90
air-dried beef, 81
with butter lettuce and coriander vinaigrette, 92–93
with fromage blanc and greens, 94–95
and Fuyu persimmons with extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, 93–94
ale, Chimay, short ribs braised in, 383–85
all-purpose rabbit cure, 413–14
almond(s):
apricot crostata with, 497–98
blanched, prosciutto and White Rose nectarines with, 84–85
green, about, 84, 85
toasted, panna cotta with saba, 500
anchovy(ies):
farro and tomato salad with basil and, 105–6
fresh, in piccolo fritto, 110
mayonnaise, 288
onion tart with saffron, tomato, olives and, 119
salted, 514–15
vinaigrette, shredded radicchio with bread crumbs, sieved egg and, 150–51
Zuni salt-cured, 72–73
antipasto of salami, Idiazabal, and celery-walnut-dried fig relish with grappa, 89–90
appetizers, 71–134
Appleby’s Double Gloucester, 450
apple(s):
charlotte, savory roasted, 260, 261
crostata with Zante grapes, 495–96
onion tart with bacon and, 120
tart, open-faced, 489–90
applesauce, roasted, 260
apricot:
crostata with almonds, 497–98
tart, 490–91
Arbulo, Pepette, 21–22, 25, 36, 54, 72–73, 279, 437, 440
Artavaggio, 451
artichoke(s):
baked, with onions, lemons, black olives, and mint, 256–57
caponata, 103–5
choosing, 103
grilled, 244–45
hearts, crispy, carpaccio with Parmigiano-Reggiano and, 132
arugula:
New Year’s Eve gougères with bacon, Carol’s pickled onions and, 116–17
salad with cucumbers, radishes, cracker bread, feta, and mint, 149–50
salad with raw sweet corn and Sweet 100 tomatoes, 148–49
Asher, Gerald, 52
asparagus:
grilled, with pistachio aïllade, 98–100
pencil, onions, and nasturtiums, piccolo fritto, 113
pencil-thin, in piccolo fritto, 109
raw, lamb’s lettuce with pistachios, Parmigiano-Reggiano and, 145
and rice soup with pancetta and black pepper, 166–67
white, raw, and porcini mushrooms with hazelnuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and white truffle oil, 96–98
avocado, butter lettuce with oranges, shallot vinaigrette and, 143–44
bacon:
braised, pasta with roasted tomato sauce and, 205–8
and chicken livers, rosemary-grilled, with balsamic-onion marmalade toasts, 127–29
New Year’s Eve gougères with arugula, Carol’s pickled onions and, 116–17
onion tart with apples and, 120
and potato omelette, Madeleine’s, 178
salmon cooked with flageolets, red wine and, 324–26
bagna cauda, chopped lemon, 308–9
bain-maries, 50
baked artichokes with onions, lemons, black olives, and mint, 256–57
balsamic vinegar:
air-dried beef and Fuyu persimmons with extra-virgin olive oil and, 93–94
Bosc pears with fennel, fresh walnuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano and, 107
crostini with charred Sweet 100 tomatoes and, 123
mayonnaise, rich, 289
onion frittata with, 180–81
-onion marmalade toasts, rosemary-grilled chicken livers and bacon with, 127–29
strawberry sorbet, 467
Banon, 451
bean(s):
dried, 263–65
fagioli all’uccelletto, 265–67
fresh shelling, 262–63
purée, crostini with sardines in chimichurri and, 124
romano, long-cooked, 250–51
shelling, smashed, crostini with giblet-mushroom sauce, greens and, 123
white, and skirt steak or hanger steak sandwich, 370
white, monkfish braised with fennel, tomato and, 326–28
beans, sea, sand dabs with shallots, sherry vinegar and, 317–19
Beaufort cheese, 449
Madeleine’s omelette with mustard croûtons and, 174–78
beef:
brasato, 373–77
broth with marrow croûtons and a truffled egg, 160–61
carpaccio and four ways to serve it, 129–34
hamburger, Zuni, 366–68
hanger steak, 368–70
and white bean sandwich, 370
and onion gratin with tomatoes, 389–91
oxtail braised in red wine, 377–82
in pot-au-feu, 385–88
in sauce, 214
short ribs, 383–85
skirt steak, 368–70
stock, 63–65
tripe, 186–88
beef, air-dried, 81
with butter lettuce and coriander vinaigrette, 92–93
with fromage blanc and greens, 94–95
and Fuyu persimmons with extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, 93–94
beets:
marinated roasted, 240–41
truffled, 240, 241
watercress salad, with walnut-mascarpone crostini and, 152–53
watercress salad with tapenade-goat cheese crostini and, 153
Belon oysters, 76
berry:
granita, 468
sorbet, 468–69
Bever, Carol, 271
biscotti:
cornmeal, 478–79
cornmeal-pistachio, 479
bisque, corn-shrimp, 170–72
bitter greens, roast chicken salad with peppers, pine nuts, olives and, 346–48
blackberry(ies):
for granita and sorbet, 467–69
tart, double-crusted, 492–93
black olives, baked artichokes with onions, lemons, mint and, 256–57
black tea, prunes in, 278–79
blanching, 100–101
double-, tripe, 186–87
meats for pot-au-feu, 386, 388
blenders, 45
Bleu de Laqueuille, 453
blueberry tart, double-crusted, 492–93
blue cheeses, 453–54
blue point oysters, 75
boiled Dungeness crab, 314–17
boning knives, 44
Bosc pears with fennel, fresh walnuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and balsamic vinegar, 107
bottarga, 183
charred eggplant with, 102–3
slow-scrambled eggs with, 182–84
bouillabaisse, chicken, 348–49
braised:
bacon, pasta with roasted tomato sauce and, 205–8
chicken with figs, honey, and vinegar, 350–52
duck with red wine, 352–54
fennel, 255
lentils in red wine, 267–68
monkfish with white beans, fennel, and tomatoes, 326–28
oxtails in red wine, 377–82
peas with onions, sage, and pancetta, 251–52
quail and sausage with grapes, 361–63
braising, mastering of, 370–73
brandade:
house salt cod, 331–32
salt cod, crostini with chard in lemon oil and, 123
Brandel, Catherine, 55, 91
brandied fruit, 279–83
basic method for, 280
cherries, 280–81
red currants, 281–82
brasato, 373–77
bread, 505–7
see also cracker bread; chapons; croûtons
bread crumb(s):
fresh, 506
fried eggs in, 178–79
salsa, toasted, 297–98
shredded radicchio with anchovy vinaigrette, sieved egg and, 150–51
bread knives, 44
bread salad, Zuni roast chicken with, 342–46
bresaola, 81
see also air-dried beef
Brie, 451
Brin d’Amour, 452
brining, 36, 269, 401–3, 429
broccoli, spicy, pasta with cauliflower and, 203–5
broccoli rabe:
grilled, 247
in piccolo fritto, 109
broth:
beef, with marrow croûtons and a truffled egg, 160–61
stracciatelle in, with sorrel, 158
see also stock
brouillade:
aux orsins, 183
aux orties, 184
truffled, 184
browning, 382–83
bruising, 236
burners, 46
Buser, Martha, 220
butter, preserved lemon–caper, 309–10
butter lettuce:
air-dried beef with coriander vinaigrette and, 92–93
with oranges, avocado, and shallot vinaigrette, 143–44
buttermilk mashed potatoes, 233–34
Caesar salad, Zuni, 22, 24, 26, 154–56
Calcagno, Vera and Jim, 208
Calcagno, Vince, 24–26, 208
Cantal, 450
caper butter, preserved-lemon, 309–10
capers, in piccolo fritto, 109
capocollo, 81
caponata, artichoke, 103–5
carbonara, pasta alla, 210–11
Carlo’s farro salad with aged Tuscan pecorino, 106
Carol’s pickled onions, 271–72
New Year’s Eve gougères with arugula, bacon and, 116–17
carpaccio, beef, and four ways to serve it, 129–34
with celery leaf salsa verde, 132–33
with crispy artichoke hearts and Parmigiano-Reggiano, 132
with fried potatoes and truffles, 133–34
with lemon and olive oil, 130–31
salt cod, 331
carving, meat, 394
cast-iron pans, 49
Catherine’s celery root with coppa, 91–92
cauliflower:
pasta with spicy broccoli and, 203–5
in piccolo fritto, 109
celery hearts, in piccolo fritto, 109
celery leaf salsa verde, 295
carpaccio with, 132–33
celery root, Catherine’s, with coppa, 91–92
celery-walnut-dried fig relish with grappa, antipasto of salami, Idiazabal and, 89–90
Chaource, 451
chapons, 507
garlic, mixed lettuces and greens with, 139–40
see also bread
chard:
fries, 248–49
with lemon oil, 248
in lemon oil, crostini with salt cod brandade and, 123
and onion panade with fontina, 227–30
charlotte, savory roasted apple, 260, 261
cheese:
about service at Zuni, 27
aged Tuscan pecorino, Carlo’s farro salad with, 106
Beaufort, Madeleine’s omelette with mustard croûtons and, 174–78
blue, 453–54
choosing and storing of, 447
course, 445–54
cow’s milk, 449–51
feta, arugula salad with cucumbers, radishes, cracker bread, mint and, 149–50
fontina, chard and onion panade with, 227–30
fromage blanc, air-dried beef with greens and, 94–95
goat, 452–53
goat, -tapenade crostini, watercress salad with beets and, 153
Idiazabal, antipasto of salami, celery-walnut-dried fig relish with grappa and, 89–90
Manchego, salami with raw favas, mint and, 87–88
Parmigiano-Reggiano, see Parmigiano-Reggiano
sage grilled, 115–16
sheep’s milk, 452
warm Saint-Marcellin, mixed lettuces with roasted cherries, hazelnuts and, 142–43
wine and, 448–49
see also specific cheeses
chef’s knives, 44, 46
cherry(ies):
brandied, 280–81
roasted, mixed lettuces with hazelnuts, warm Saint-Marcellin and, 142–43
sweet, double-crusted tart, 493
sweet, lattice-topped tart, 493
chestnuts in sage oil, prosciutto with, 85–86
Chez Panisse, 20–21, 22
chicken:
bouillabaisse, 348–49
braised with figs, honey, and vinegar, 350–52
breasts, brine for curing, 402
livers and bacon, rosemary-grilled, with balsamic-onion marmalade toasts, 127–29
roast, salad, with peppers, pine nuts, olives, and bitter greens, 346–48
roast, Zuni, with bread salad, 25, 342–46
stock, Zuni, 58–60
chickpeas:
in piccolo fritto, 110
squid, and Sweet 100 tomatoes, piccolo fritto, 114
Chimay ale, short ribs braised in, 383–85
chimichurri:
Connie and Maryanna’s, 298–99
sardines in, crostini with bean purée and, 123
chocolate pots de crème, 499
chop, pork, house-cured, 400–403
chopped lemon bagna cauda, 308–9
chowder, house salt cod, with fennel, saffron, onions, and cracker bread, 333–34
Cioni, Carlo, 106
citrus, 507–8
risotto, 196–97
zests, 507–8
see also specific citrus
citrus zesters, 44
cod, salt, see salt cod
compound stocks, 55–56, 61–70
conchaphila oysters, 76
confit, duck, 429–36
confits, gésiers, 434–36
Connie and Maryanna’s chimichurri, 298–99
Cookenboo, Julie, 499
cooking vessels, 48–50
coppa, 81
with Catherine’s celery root, 91–92
and warm parslied potato salad with roasted peppers, 90–91
corn:
arugula salad with Sweet 100 tomatoes and, 148–49
creamed, 253–54
fresh, polenta with, 191
pasta with pancetta, butter, sage and, 201–3
scraping, basic technique for, 254
-shrimp bisque, 170–72
-stuffed squash blossoms and mozzarella and Sweet 100 tomatoes, piccolo fritto, 113
cornmeal biscotti, 478–79
coulis, tomato, 287–88
Coulommiers, 451
cow’s milk cheeses, 449–51
crab, boiled Dungeness, 314–17
cracker bread:
arugula salad with cucumbers, radishes, feta, mint and, 149–50
house salt cod chowder with fennel, saffron, onions and, 333–34
cranberries and prunes in tea, 279
Crassostrea oysters, 75–76
creamed corn, 253–54
crème fraîche, mock and “real,” 286–87
portobello mushrooms with extra-virgin olive oil, mint, lemon and, 95–96
crostata(s), fruit, 494–98
apple, with Zante grapes, 495–96
apricot, with almonds, 497–98
basic method for, 494–95
Italian or French prune-plum, 498
peach, 498
crostini, 121–26
about, 121–22
with bean purée and sardines in chimichurri, 123
with charred Sweet 100 tomatoes and balsamic vinegar, 123
with egg salad, rosemary-pickled peppers, and smoked prosciutto, 125
with fava-egg salad and smoked trout, 125
with grilled foie gras and a few favorite garnishes, 125–26
with rabbit rillettes, 418
with salt cod brandade and chard in lemon oil, 123
with smashed shelling beans, giblet-mushroom sauce, and greens, 123
tapenade-goat cheese, 153
walnut-mascarpone, watercress salad with beets and, 152–53
Crottin de Chavignol, 452
croûtons, 507
marrow, beef broth with a truffled egg and, 160–61
mustard, Madeleine’s omelette with Beaufort cheese and, 174–78
see also bread
crumbly hazelnut picada, 305–6
cucumbers, arugula salad with radishes, cracker bread, feta, mint and, 149–50
cumin, sweet red pepper-lentil soup with black pepper and, 167–68
Cunningham, Marion, 22
cured anchovies, Zuni salt-, 72
cured meats, 79–95
about, 79–81
wine and, 81
see also air-dried beef; coppa; pancetta; prosciutto; salami; smoked prosciutto
curing, 35–39, 366, 400, 421, 429
currant(s):
-orange scones, 479–80
red, brandied, 281–82
Cypress Grove Humboldt Fog, 452–53
Da Delfina, 106
dates:
and mandarines with mascarpone, pomegranates, and pistachios, 457–59
roasted guinea hen with bay leaves, Madeira and, 355–57
David, Elizabeth, 21, 24, 221, 403
Délorme, André, 502
Descat, Georgette, 35–36, 439
desserts, pastry, 455–504
wine and, 456
double boilers, 49–50
dough:
basic rich tart, 480–86
“rough puff” pastry, 484–86
“with a little flake,” 483–84
dough cutters, 45
drunken raisins, 282
duck:
braised with red wine and prunes, 352–54
breasts, brine for curing, 403
confit, 429–36
fat, 431
stock, 67–68
see also foie gras
Dungeness crab, boiled, 314–17
edulis oysters, 76
eggplant:
charred, with bottarga, 102–3
grilled, 241–43
eggs, 173–88, 508
baked in restes, 184–85
choosing, 174
cooked in spicy tripe stew, 186–88
deep-fried, radicchio, onions, and portobello mushrooms with, piccolo fritto, 113
-fava salad, crostini with smoked trout and, 125
fried, in bread crumbs, 178–79
fried or poached, boiled kale with, 163
frittata and elaborations, 180–82
gribiche, four-minute, 291
hard-cooked, 508
Madeleine’s omelette with mustard croûtons and Beaufort cheese, 174–78
Madeleine’s potato and bacon omelette, 178
in piccolo fritto, 110
poached, onion soup with tomato and a, 159–60
salad, crostini with rosemary-pickled peppers, smoked prosciutto and, 125
sieved, shredded radicchio with anchovy vinaigrette, bread crumbs and, 150–51
slow-scrambled, with bottarga, and variations, 182–84
truffled, beef broth with marrow croûtons and a, 160–61
electric burners, 46
electric ovens, 47
endive and Fuyu persimmon salad with pecans, 153–54
Epoisses, 451
escarole, wilted, 249–50
espresso granita with whipped cream, 474
esquiexada, 330
essence, shellfish, 172
extra-virgin olive oil, see olive oil
fagioli all’uccelletto, 265–67
farinata, kale, 163
Farmer’s Cheese, 452
farro:
salad, Carlo’s, with aged Tuscan pecorino, 106
soup, turning farrotto into, 200–201
and tomato salad with basil and anchovies, 105–6
farrotto, with dried porcini, 199–200
turning into farro soup, 200–201
fava(s):
-egg salad, crostini with smoked trout and, 125
raw, salami with mint, Manchego cheese and, 87–88
fennel, 107
Bosc pears with fresh walnuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, balsamic vinegar and, 107
braised, 255
house salt cod chowder with saffron, onions, cracker bread and, 333–34
monkfish braised with white beans, tomato and, 326–28
onions, and Zante grapes, piccolo fritto, 114
in piccolo fritto, 109
smoked prosciutto with spiced Zante grapes and, 87
feta, arugula salad with cucumbers, radishes, cracker bread, mint and, 149–50
fideus:
frittata with tomato sauce and, 181–82
with wild mushrooms and peas, Zuni, 217–19
figs:
chicken braised with honey, vinegar and, 350–52
dried, in red wine, 282
fresh, in piccolo fritto, 109
fried, with whipped cream, raspberries, and honey, 459–60
warm roasted, prosciutto with hazelnut picada and, 83
fingerling potatoes, roasted, 236–37
fish:
cleaning of, 321–22
fumet, 68–70
salting in advance, 37
see also specific fish
flageolets, salmon cooked with bacon, red wine and, 324–26
Fleur du Maquis, 452
fleur du sel, 39
foie gras:
en terrine, 436–39
grilled, crostini with a few favorite garnishes and, 125–26
pearà sauce, 312
fontina, chard and onion panade with, 227–30
food processors, 45
Fougérus, 451
Fourme d’Ambert, 453
Fourme de Montbrison, 453
French prune-plum crostata, 498
fried:
figs with whipped cream, raspberries, and honey, 459–60
potatoes, carpaccio with truffles and, 133–34
fried eggs:
boiled kale with, 163
in bread crumbs, 178–79
fries, chard, 248–49
frittata, and elaborations, 180–82
with fideus and tomato sauce, 181–82
onion, with balsamic, 180–81
fromage blanc, 452
air-dried beef with greens and, 94–95
fruit:
brandied, 279–83
crostatas, 494–98
granita and sorbet, 460–74
summer, shortcake with, 475–77
tarts, 486–93
see also specific fruits
fumet:
fish, 68–70
shellfish, 172
Fuyu persimmon(s):
and air-dried beef with extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, 93–94
and endive salad with pecans, 153–54
garbure landaise, la, 169–70
garlic, 508–10
chapons, mixed lettuces and greens with, 139–40
leg of lamb with rosemary and, 399
Garrotxa, 453
gas burners, 46
gas ovens, 47
Geoffray, Yvonne, 52
gésiers confits, 434–36
giblet-mushroom sauce:
crostini with smashed shelling beans, greens and, 123
pasta with, 214–17
gigas oysters, 75, 77
glasswort, 317
pickled, 274–75
sand dabs with shallots, sea beans, and sherry vinegar, 317–19
gnocchi:
spinach ricotta, 226
Zuni ricotta, 221–26
goat cheese(s), 452–53
-tapenade crostini, watercress salad with beets and, 153
gougères, New Year’s Eve, with arugula, bacon, and Carol’s pickled onions, 116–17
graisserons, 440–42
granita:
basic method for, 462–63
berry, 468
espresso, with whipped cream, 474
honeydew melon, 473
lemon, 471
strawberry, 466–67
watermelon, 473
grapes, quail and sausage braised with, 361–63
grapes, Zante:
apple crostata with, 495–96
fresh, in piccolo fritto, 109
onions, and fennel, piccolo fritto, 114
spiced, 276–77
spiced, smoked prosciutto with fennel and, 87
grappa, celery-walnut-dried fig relish with, antipasto of salami, Idiazabal and, 89–90
gratin:
beef and onion, with tomatoes, 389–91
sage and onion polenta, 192–93
green olive-lemon relish, 301–2
greens:
air-dried beef with fromage blanc and, 94–95
bitter, roast chicken salad with peppers, pine nuts, olives and, 346–48
choosing and washing of, 137
crostini with smashed shelling beans, giblet-mushroom sauce and, 123
and lettuces, mixed, with garlic chapons, 139–40
types of, 136–37
gremolata, melting marrow, 296
gribiche, four-minute egg, 291
grilled:
artichokes, 244–45
asparagus with pistachio aïllade, 98–100
broccoli rabe, 247
cheese, sage, 115–16
eggplant, 241–43
foie gras, crostini with a few favorite garnishes and, 125–26
quail, 359–61
quail, marinated, 359, 361
radicchio, 246–47
sausages, 424, 428
skirt or hanger steak, 368
squab, 364
summer squash, 243–44
zucchini, 243–44
grills, 46–47
Gruyère, 449
guinea hen:
breast “saltimbocca,” 357–59
roasted, with bay leaves, Madeira, and dates, 355–57
stock, 67–68
gypsy peppers, rosemary-pickled, 273–74
hamburger, Zuni, 366–68
hanger steak, 20, 368–70
and white bean sandwich, 370
hard-cooked eggs, 508
see also eggs
hash, polenta, 193
hashed sweet potatoes, 239–40
hazelnut(s):
mixed lettuces with mandarins, hazelnut vinaigrette and, 140–41
mixed lettuces with roasted cherries, warm Saint-Marcellin and, 142–43
picada, crumbly, 305–6
picada, prosciutto with warm roasted figs and, 83
raw white asparagus and porcini mushrooms with Parmigiano-Reggiano, white truffle oil and, 96–98
vinaigrette, mixed lettuces with mandarins, hazelnuts and, 140–41
heat sources, 46–48
herbs, fresh, guidelines for preparing and chopping, 292
honey:
chicken braised with figs, vinegar and, 350–52
fried figs with whipped cream, raspberries and, 459–60
rosemary, oranges with, 456–57
honeydew melon:
granita, 473
for granita and sorbet, 472–73
house-cured pork chop and tenderloin, 400–403
house salt cod, 328–31
brandade, 331–32
chowder with fennel, saffron, onions, and cracker bread, 333–34
in piccolo fritto, 110
Hy-Ku Baba, 453
Idiazabal, antipasto of salami, celery-walnut-dried fig relish with grappa and, 89–90
ingredients, choosing, 31–35
iodized salt, 39
Italian prune-plum crostata, 498
Juniper Grove Tumalo Tomme, 453
kale:
boiled, on toast, 162–63
boiled, with eggs, fried or poached, 163
farinata, 163
pappa, 163
Kennedy, Diana, 24
Kerr, Kelsie, 297
kitchen tools, 42–46
knives, 42–44
boning, 44
bread, 44
chef’s, 44, 46
paring, 43
kosher salt, 39
Kumamoto oysters, 75–76
la garbure landaise, 169–70
lamb:
corkscrewing of, 395–96
leg of, with lavender, 399–400
leg of, with mustard, 399
leg of, with rosemary and garlic, 399
roast leg of, 394–400
spring, roasting of, 398–99
stock, 65–66
lamb’s lettuce with raw asparagus, pistachios, and Parmigiano-Reggiano, 145
L’Ami du Chambertin, 451
Langres, 451
lattice-topped sweet cherry tart, 493
lavender, leg of lamb with, 399–400
leafy salads, 135–56
L’Edel de Cléron, 450–51
leeks, sea bass with potatoes, thyme and, 322–24
leg of lamb, see lamb
lemon oil, fried
chard in, crostini with salt cod brandade and, 123
chard with, 248
lemon(s):
bagna cauda, chopped, 308–9
baked artichokes with onions, black olives, mint and, 256–57
carpaccio with olive oil and, 130–31
granita, 471
for granita and sorbet, 470–72
-green olive relish, 301–2
-infused olive oil, homemade, 285
mayonnaise, 288
portobello mushrooms with extra-virgin olive oil, mint, mock crème fraîche and, 95–96
preserved, 275–76
preserved, -caper butter, 309–10
sorbet, 471–72
lemon slices, fried:
in piccolo fritto, 108
radicchio, and onions, piccolo fritto, 112
sand dab with onions, fresh sage and, piccolo fritto, 114
lentil(s):
braised in red wine, 267–68
-sweet red pepper soup with cumin and black pepper, 167–68
Les Frères Troisgros, 17–20, 366, 502
l’Estanquet, 21–22
L’Etivaz, 449
lettuce(s):
butter, air-dried beef with coriander vinaigrette and, 92–93
butter, with oranges, avocado, and shallot vinaigrette, 143–44
and greens, mixed, with garlic chapons, 139–40
lamb’s, with raw asparagus, pistachios, and Parmigiano-Reggiano, 145
mixed, with mandarins, hazelnuts, and hazelnut vinaigrette, 140–41
mixed, with roasted cherries, hazelnuts, and warm Saint-Marcellin, 142–43
limequats, preserved, 275–76
Livarot, 450
livers, chicken, and bacon, rosemary-grilled, with balsamic-onion marmalade toasts, 127–29
long-cooked romano beans, 250–51
Los Reyes, 449
Lous Landès, 35
McBride, Marsha, 26
Madeira, roasted guinea hen with bay leaves, dates and, 355–57
Madeleine’s:
omelette with mustard croûtons and Beaufort cheese, 174–78
potato and bacon omelette, 178
Manchego cheese, 452
salami with raw favas, mint and, 87–88
mandarins:
and dates with mascarpone, pomegranates, and pistachios, 457–59
mixed lettuces with hazelnuts, hazelnut vinaigrette and, 140–41
mandolines, 44–45
marinade, salmorigno as a, 299–300
marinated:
grilled quail, 359, 361
roasted beets, 240–41
marinating, 35–38, 413–14
marmalade toasts, onion-balsamic, rosemary-grilled chicken livers and bacon with, 127–29
Maroilles, 450
marrow:
croûtons, beef broth with a truffled egg and, 160–61
gremolata, melting, 296
Marsala, rabbit with prune-plums and, 414–16
Martha’s spätzle, 220–21
mascarpone:
mandarins and dates with pomegranates, pistachios and, 457–59
-walnut crostini, watercress salad with beets and, 152–53
mashed potatoes, buttermilk, 233–34
Matos’ Saint George, 450
mayonnaise:
anchovy, 288
lemon, 288
how to rescue, 290
rich balsamic, 289
measuring, 40–42, 50–51
meat:
braising, 370–73
browning, 382–83
carving, 394
cured, see cured meats
roasting, 391–94
salting early, 35–38
tying up, 406–7
meat pounders, 46
meat thermometers, 50–51
melon:
honeydew, for granita and sorbet, 472–73
honeydew, granita, 473
and prosciutto in Sambuca, 82
watermelon, choosing, 473
watermelon, granita, 473
melting marrow gremolata, 296
mignonette, sauce, 79
Miller, Mark, 21
Mimolette, 450
mint:
arugula salad with cucumbers, radishes, cracker bread, feta and, 149–50
baked artichokes with onions, lemons, black olives and, 256–57
portobello mushrooms with extra-virgin olive oil, lemon, mock crème fraîche and, 95–96
salami with raw favas, Manchego cheese and, 87–88
whole sea bream roasted on onions with tomatoes, parsley and, 319–21
minutina salad with vegetable confetti and coriander vinaigrette, 146–47
miroton, 389–91
mock crème fraîche, 286–87
portobello mushrooms with extra-virgin olive oil, mint, lemon and, 95–96
mock porchetta, 407–10
monkfish braised with white beans, fennel, and tomato, 326–28
Montbriac, 454
Montgomery’s Cheddar, 450
Morbier, 449
mortar and pestle, 45–46
Moullé, Jean-Pierre, 21
Mountain Gorgonzola, 453
mozzarella and corn-stuffed squash blossoms and Sweet 100 tomatoes, piccolo fritto, 113
Munster, 450
Munster-Gérômé, 450
Muscat wine, peaches in, 501–2
mushroom-giblet sauce:
crostini with smashed shelling beans, greens and, 123
pasta with, 214–17
mushrooms:
cleaning and choosing, 516–17
farrotto with dried porcini, 199–200
in piccolo fritto, 108, 109
porcini and raw white asparagus with hazelnuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and white truffle oil, 96–98
porcini pearà sauce, 311–12
portobello, radicchio, and onions with a deep-fried egg, piccolo fritto, 113
portobello, with extra-virgin olive oil, mint, lemon, and mock crème fraîche, 95–96
mushrooms, wild:
cleaning and choosing, 516–17
risotto with wild rice, squash and, 197–99
Zuni fideus with peas and, 217–19
mustard:
croûtons, Madeleine’s omelette with Beaufort cheese and, 174–78
leg of lamb with, 399
nasturtiums, in piccolo fritto, 109
nectarine(s):
sorbet, 470
White Rose, and prosciutto with blanched almonds, 84–85
“New American Cooking,” 22
New Year’s Eve gougères with arugula, bacon, and Carol’s pickled onions, 116–17
Nguyen, Quang, 129, 513
nonstick pans, 49
nouvelle cuisine, 17, 23
nuts, 510
see also specific nuts
olive oil:
carpaccio with lemon and, 130–31
extra-virgin, air-dried beef and Fuyu persimmons with balsamic vinegar and, 93–94
extra-virgin, portobello mushrooms with mint, lemon, mock crème fraîche and, 95–96
homemade lemon-infused, 285
lemon, chard in, crostini with salt cod brandade and, 123
lemon, chard with, 248
sage, prosciutto with chestnuts in, 85–86
white truffle, raw white asparagus and porcini mushrooms with hazelnuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano and, 96–98
olive(s), 510–11
black, baked artichokes with onions, lemons, mint and, 256–57
onion tart with saffron, tomato, anchovies and, 119
-orange tapenade, 304–5
roast chicken salad with peppers, pine nuts, bitter greens and, 346–48
Olney, Richard, 21
Olympia oysters, 76
omelette:
cooking of, 177–78
Madeleine’s, with mustard croûtons and Beaufort cheese, 174–78
Madeleine’s potato and bacon, 178
onion(s), 511–13
baked artichokes with lemons, black olives, mint and, 256–57
-balsamic marmalade toasts, rosemary-grilled chicken livers and bacon with, 127–29
and beef gratin with tomatoes, 389–91
braised peas with sage, pancetta and, 251–52
Carol’s pickled, 271–72
Carol’s pickled, New Year’s Eve gougères with arugula, bacon and, 116–17
and chard panade with fontina, 227–30
fennel, and Zante grapes, piccolo fritto, 114
frittata with balsamic, 180–81
house salt cod chowder with fennel, saffron, cracker bread and, 333–34
panade, summer, with tomatoes, 230
panades, three: chard, sorrel and tomato, 227–30
pencil asparagus, and nasturtiums, piccolo fritto, 113
in piccolo fritto, 108
Quang’s dicing method, 513
radicchio, and lemon or orange slices, piccolo fritto, 112
radicchio, and portobello mushrooms with a deep-fried egg, piccolo fritto, 113
red, pickles, 270–71
and sage polenta, 192
and sage polenta gratin, 192–93
sand dab with lemon slices, fresh sage and, piccolo fritto, 114
and sorrel panade, 230
soup with tomato and a poached egg, 159–60
whole sea bream roasted with tomatoes, parsley, and mint on, 319–21
onion tart, savory, with 2 elaborations, 118–20
with apples and bacon, 120
with saffron, tomato, anchovies, and olives, 119
open-faced apple or pear tart, 489–90
orange(s):
butter lettuce with avocado, shallot vinaigrette and, 143–44
-currant scones, 479–80
-olive tapenade, 304–5
with rosemary honey, 456–57
sorbet, 472
orange slices:
in piccolo fritto, 108
radicchio, and onions, piccolo fritto, 112
Ostrea oysters, 76
ovens, 47–48
oven thermometers, 51
oxtails braised in red wine, 377–82
oysters:
choosing, storing, and serving of, 74–78
sauce mignonette for, 79
see also specific oysters
panade(s):
chard and onion, with fontina, 227–30
panfried, 230
sorrel and onion, 230
summer onion, with tomatoes, 230
pancetta:
asparagus and rice soup with black pepper and, 166–67
braised peas with onions sage and, 251–52
pasta with corn, butter, sage and, 201–3
panna cotta, toasted almond, with saba, 500
pans, 48–49
pappa, kale, 163
pappa al pomodoro, 164–65
paring knives, 43
Parma prosciutto, 80
see also prosciutto
Parmigiano-Reggiano, 449
Bosc pears with fennel, fresh walnuts, balsamic vinegar and, 107
carpaccio with crispy artichoke hearts and, 132
lamb’s lettuce with raw asparagus, pistachios and, 145
raw white asparagus and porcini mushrooms with hazelnuts, white truffle oil and, 96–98
parsley:
salsa verde with one other pungent herb and, 294
whole sea bream roasted on onions with tomatoes, mint and, 319–21
parslied potato salad, warm, and coppa with roasted peppers, 90–91
pasta:
alla carbonara, 210–11
with braised bacon and roasted tomato sauce, 205–8
cooking of, 201
with corn, pancetta, butter, and sage, 201–3
with giblet-mushroom sauce, 214–17
with preserved tuna and pine nuts, 211–13
with sardines and tomato sauce, 208–10
with spicy broccoli and cauliflower, 203–5
Zuni fideus with wild mushrooms and peas, 217–19
pastry, “rough puff,” 484–86
pastry scrapers, 45
Patron, le, see Troisgros, Jean-Baptiste
peach(es):
crostata, 498
in Muscat wine, 501–2
pearà sauce, 27
foie gras, 312
porcini, 311–12
pear(s):
Bosc, with fennel, fresh walnuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and balsamic vinegar, 107
tart, open-faced, 489–90
peas:
braised, with onions, sage, and pancetta, 251–52
sugar snap boats, 252–53
Zuni fideus with wild mushrooms and, 217–19
pecans, endive and Fuyu persimmon salad with, 153–54
pecorino, aged Tuscan, Carlo’s farro salad with, 106
pencil asparagus:
onions, and nasturtiums, piccolo fritto, 113
in piccolo fritto, 109
pepper grinders, 46
pepper(s):
gypsy, rosemary pickled, 273–74
live-fire method, 303
oven method, 303
roast chicken salad with pine nuts, olives, bitter greens and, 346–48
rosemary-pickled, crostini with egg salad, smoked prosciutto and, 125
sweet red, -lentil soup with cumin and black pepper, 167–68
pepper(s), roasted:
coppa and warm parslied potato salad with, 90–91
relish, 302–4
spicy squid stew with red wine and, 338–39
Pérail, 451
persimmon(s), Fuyu:
and air-dried beef with extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, 93–94
and endive salad with pecans, 153–54
pestle and mortar, 45–46
pesto, sage, 307–8
Petit Basque, 452
picada, hazelnut, crumbly, 305–6
prosciutto with warm roasted figs and, 83
piccolo fritto, 108–15
about, 108–12
mozzarella and corn-stuffed squash blossoms and Sweet 100 tomatoes, 113
onions, fennel, and Zante grapes, 114
pencil asparagus, onions, and nasturtiums, 113
radicchio, onions and lemon or orange slices, 112
radicchio and portobello mushrooms with a deep-fried egg, 113
sand dab with onions, lemon slices, and fresh sage, 114
squid, chick peas, and Sweet 100 tomatoes, 114
and wine, 114–15
pickles, pickling:
glasswort, 274–75
gypsy peppers, rosemary-, 273–74
onions, Carol’s, 271–72
onions, Carol’s, New Year’s Eve gougères with arugula, bacon and, 116–17
red onion, 270–71
salting vegetables before, 37
spiced prunes, 278
spiced Zante grapes, 276–77
zucchini, 269–70
Picon, 453–54
Pierre Dorée, 449
pine nuts:
pasta with preserved tuna and, 211–13
roast chicken salad with peppers, olives, bitter greens and, 346–48
pistachio(s):
aïllade, grilled asparagus with, 98–100
-cornmeal biscotti, 479
lamb’s lettuce with raw asparagus, Parmigiano-Reggiano and, 145
mandarins and dates with mascarpone, pomegranates and, 457–59
plum(s):
choosing for granita and sorbet, 469–70
sorbet, 470
poached egg(s):
beef broth with marrow croûtons and a truffled egg, 160–61
boiled kale with, 163
onion soup with tomato and a, 159–60
polenta, 190–94
basic, 190–91
firm, three ways to serve, 192–93
with fresh corn, 191
gratin, sage and onion, 192–93
hash, 193
roasted, 192
sage and onion, 192
pomegranates, mandarins and dates with mascarpone, pistachios and, 457–59
Pont l’Evêque, 450
porchetta, mock, 407–10
porcini:
dried, farrotto with, 199–200
fresh, in piccolo fritto, 109
pearà sauce, 311–12
and raw white asparagus with hazelnuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and white truffle oil, 96–98
pork:
brine for curing, 401–2
chop, house-cured, 400–403
mock porchetta, 407–10
sausage, 424–26
standing rib roast of, 403–6
stock, rich, 61–63
tenderloin, house-cured, 400–403
see also copa; pancetta; prosciutto; salami; smoked prosciutto
portobello mushroom(s):
caps, in piccolo fritto, 108
with extra-virgin olive oil, mint, lemon, and mock crème fraîche, 95–96
radicchio, and onions with a deep-fried egg, piccolo fritto, 113
portugaise oysters, 75
potato(es):
and bacon omelette, Madeleine’s, 178
buttermilk mashed, 233–34
fried, carpaccio with truffles and, 133–34
roasted fingerling, 236–37
rosemary-roasted, 235–36
salad, warm parslied, and coppa with roasted peppers, 90–91
salt-roasties, 237–38
sea bass with leeks, thyme and, 322–24
potatoes, sweet, hashed, 239–40
pot-au-feu, 385–88
pots de crème, chocolate, 499
poultry, 341–64
preserved:
lemon-caper butter, 309–10
lemons or limequats, 275–76
tuna, pasta with pine nuts and, 211–13
prosciutto:
with chestnuts in sage oil, 85–86
and melon in Sambuca, 82
Parma, 80
with warm roasted figs and hazelnut picada, 83
and White Rose nectarines with blanched almonds, 84–85
prosciutto, smoked, 80
crostini with egg salad, rosemary-pickled peppers and, 125
with spiced Zante grapes and fennel, 87
prune-plum(s):
crostata, Italian or French, 498
rabbit with Marsala and, 414–16
tart, 490–91
prunes:
in black tea, 278–79
and cranberries in tea, 279
duck braised with red wine and, 352–54
in piccolo fritto, 109
spiced, 278
pudding, tomato summer, 258–60
purée, bean, crostini with sardines in chimichurri and, 123
Putney Tomme, 450
quail:
marinated grilled, 359, 361
roasted or grilled, 359–61
and sausage braised with grapes, 361–63
stock, 67–68
Queso Cabrales, 453–54
Queso Majorero, 453
rabbit:
cure, all-purpose, 413–14
cutting up, 411–13
with Marsala and prune-plums, 414–16
mixed grill, 416–18
rillettes, 442–44
sausage, 426–29
stock, 67–68
radicchio:
grilled, 246–47
onions, and lemon or orange slices, piccolo fritto, 112
onions, and portobello mushrooms with a deep-fried egg, piccolo fritto, 113
in piccolo fritto, 109
shredded, with anchovy vinaigrette, bread crumbs, and sieved egg, 150–51
radishes, arugula salad with cucumbers, cracker bread, feta, mint and, 149–50
raisins, drunken, 282
raspberries:
choosing for granita and sorbet, 467–69
fried figs with whipped cream, honey and, 459–60
raw asparagus, lamb’s lettuce with pistachios, Parmigiano-Reggiano and, 145
raw favas, salami with mint, Manchego cheese and, 87–88
raw sweet corn, arugula salad with Sweet 100 tomatoes, 148–49
raw white asparagus and porcini mushrooms with hazelnuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and white truffle oil, 96–98
Reblochon, 450
red currants, brandied, 281–82
red onion pickles, 270–71
red pepper, sweet, -lentil soup with cumin and black pepper, 167–68
reduction, 56–57
red wine:
dried figs in, 282
duck braised with prunes and, 352–54
lentils braised in, 267–68
oxtails braised in, 377–82
salmon cooked with flageolets, bacon and, 324–26
spicy squid stew with roasted peppers and, 338–39
relish:
dried fig–celery-walnut, with grappa, antipasto of salami, Idiazabal and, 89–90
green olive–lemon, 301–2
roasted pepper, 302–4
restes, eggs baked in, 184–85
rib roast of pork, standing, 403–6
ribs:
short, braised in Chimay ale, 383–85
short, in pot-au-feu, 385–88
rice:
and asparagus soup with pancetta and black pepper, 166–67
for risotto, 194
wild, risotto with squash, wild mushrooms and, 197–99
rich balsamic mayonnaise, 289
rich pork stock, 61–63
ricotta gnocchi:
spinach, 226
Zuni, 221–26
Riley, Kathi, 394, 414
rillettes, rabbit, 442–44
risotto:
about, 194–95
citrus, 196–97
with wild rice, squash, and wild mushrooms, 197–99
roast chicken:
salad with peppers, pine nuts, olives, and bitter greens, 346–48
Zuni, with bread salad, 25, 342–46
roasted:
apple charlotte, savory, 260, 261
applesauce, 260
beets, marinated, 240–41
cherries, mixed lettuces with hazelnuts, warm Saint-Marcellin and, 142–43
figs, warm, prosciutto with hazelnut picada and, 83
fingerling potatoes, 236–37
guinea hen with bay leaves, Madeira, and dates, 355–57
leg of lamb, 394–400
polenta, 192
potatoes, rosemary-, 235–36
quail, 359–61
squab, 363–64
tomato sauce, pasta with braised bacon and, 205–8
roasted pepper(s):
coppa and warm parslied potato salad with, 90–91
relish, 302–4
spicy squid stew with red wine and, 338–39
roasting, successful, 391–94
roasting methods, 303
Robiola di Mondovi, 451
Rochebaron, 454
rock salt, 39
romano beans, long-cooked, 250–51
romesco, shrimp cooked in, with wilted spinach, 334–37
Root, Waverley, 21
Roquefort, 453
rosemary:
-grilled chicken livers and bacon with balsamic-onion marmalade toasts, 127–29
honey, oranges with, 456–57
leg of lamb with garlic and, 399
-pickled gypsy peppers, 273–74
-pickled peppers, crostini with egg salad, smoked prosciutto and, 125
-roasted potatoes, 235–36
Roth Käse USA Gruyère, 449
“rough puff” pastry, 484–86
saba, about, 500
toasted almond panna cotta with, 500
saffron:
house salt cod chowder with fennel, onions, cracker bread and, 333–34
onion tart with tomato, anchovies, olives and, 119
sage:
braised peas with onions, pancetta and, 251–52
fresh, in piccolo fritto, 109
fresh, sand dab with onions, lemon slices and, piccolo fritto, 114
grilled cheese, 115–16
and onion polenta, 192
and onion polenta gratin, 192–93
pasta with corn, pancetta, butter and, 201–3
pesto, Cynthia’s, 307–8
sage oil, prosciutto with chestnuts in, 85–86
Saint-Marcellin, 451
warm, mixed lettuces with roasted cherries, hazelnuts and, 142–43
salads:
arugula, with cucumbers, radishes, cracker bread, feta, and mint, 149–50
arugula, with raw sweet corn and Sweet 100 tomatoes, 148–49
with beets and walnut-mascarpone crostini, 152–53
bread, Zuni roast chicken with, 342–46
butter lettuce with oranges, avocado, and shallot vinaigrette, 143–44
dressing of, 137–38
egg, crostini with rosemary-pickled peppers, smoked prosciutto and, 125
endive and Fuyu persimmon with pecans, 153–54
farro, Carlo’s, with aged Tuscan pecorino, 106
farro and tomato, with basil and anchovies, 105–6
fava-egg, crostini with smoked trout and, 125
lamb’s lettuce with raw asparagus, pistachios, and Parmigiano-Reggiano, 145
leafy, 135–56
minutina, with vegetable confetti and coriander vinaigrette, 146–47
mixed lettuces and greens with garlic chapons, 139–40
mixed lettuces with mandarines, hazelnuts, and hazelnut vinaigrette, 140–41
mixed lettuces with roasted cherries, hazelnuts, and warm Saint-Marcellin, 142–43
potato, warm parslied, and coppa with roasted peppers, 90–91
roast chicken, with peppers, pine nuts, olives, and bitter greens, 346–48
shredded radicchio with anchovy vinaigrette, bread crumbs, and sieved egg, 150–51
watercress with beets and tapenade-goat cheese crostini, 153
wine and, 137–38
Zuni Caesar, 154–56
salami, 80
antipasto of Idiazabal, celery-walnut-dried fig relish with grappa and, 89–90
with raw favas, mint, and Manchego cheese, 87–88
see also soppressata
Sally Jackson’s Goat Milk Cheese Wrapped in Grape Leaves, 453
Sally Jackson’s Sheep’s Milk Cheese Wrapped in Chestnut Leaves, 452
salmon:
choosing, 324
cooked with flageolets, bacon, and red wine, 324–26
salmorigano (salmoriglio), 299–300
salsa, toasted bread crumb, 297–98
salsa verde, 292–95
carpaccio with, 132–33
celery leaf, 295
with parsley and one other pungent herb, 294
salt:
early use of, 35–38
fleur du sel, 39
iodized, 39
kosher, 39
rock, 39
sea, 38–39
salt cod:
brandade, crostini with chard in lemon oil and, 123
brandade, house, 331–32
carpaccio, 331
chowder, house, with fennel, saffron, onions, and cracker bread, 333–34
house, in piccolo fritto, 110
house-cured, 328–31
salt-cured anchovies, Zuni, 72–73
salted anchovies, 514–15
“saltimbocca,” guinea hen breast, 357–59
salt-roasties, 237–38
Sambuca, prosciutto and melon in, 82
sand dab(s):
with onions, lemon slices, and fresh sage, piccolo fritto, 114
in piccolo fritto, 110
with shallots, sea beans, and sherry vinegar, 317–19
sandwich(es):
focaccia, meat from pork stock and ricotta, 63
frittata, 180
leftover porchetta, 408
leg of lamb, with grilled eggplant and roasted pepper relish, 398
sage grilled cheese, 115–16
skirt steak or hanger steak and white bean, 370
sardines:
in chimichurri, crostini with bean purée and, 123
pasta with tomato sauce and, 208–10
in piccolo fritto, 110
sauces, 53–70, 283–312
chopped lemon bagna cauda, 308–9
Connie and Maryanna’s chimichurri, 298–99
foie gras pearà, 312
giblet-mushroom, crostini with smashed shelling beans, greens and, 124
giblet-mushroom, pasta with, 214–17
mignonette, 79
porcini pearà, 311–12
preserved lemon-caper butter, 309–10
roasted tomato, pasta with braised bacon and, 205–8
romesco, 334
salmorigano, 299–300
salsa verde, 292–95
toasted bread crumb salsa, 297–98
tomato coulis, 287–88
tomato, pasta with sardines and, 208–10
vinaigrette, 284–85
saucepans, 49
sausage:
and charcuterie, 419–44
making of, 420–24
pork, 424–26
and quail braised with grapes, 361–63
rabbit, 426–29
sautéing, 340
sauté pans, 49
scales, 50
scallops, in piccolo fritto, 110
scones, orange-currant, 479–80
sea bass with leeks, potatoes, and thyme, 322–24
sea beans, sand dabs with shallots, sherry vinegar and, 317–19
see also glasswort
sea bream, whole, roasted on onions with tomatoes, parsley, and mint, 319–21
seafood, 313–40
choosing of, 314
sea salt, 38–39
Selles-sur-Cher, 452
Serraille, Madeleine Troisgros, 19, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 174–75
serrano ham, Spanish, 80
shallot(s):
sand dabs with sea beans, sherry vinegar and, 317–19
vinaigrette, butter lettuce with oranges, avocado and, 143–44
Shea, Cynthia, 307
sheep’s milk cheeses, 452
shellfish essence, 172
shellfish fumet, 172
shelling beans:
fresh, 262–63
smashed, crostini with giblet-mushroom sauce, greens and, 123
Shere, Lindsey, 21
sherry vinegar, sand dabs with shallots, sea beans and, 317–19
shortcake with summer fruit, 475–77
short ribs:
braised in Chimay ale, 383–85
in pot-au-feu, 385–88
shredded radicchio with anchovy vinaigrette, bread crumbs, and sieved egg, 150–51
shrimp:
choosing, 334–35
cooked in romesco with wilted spinach, 334–37
-corn bisque, 170–72
sieved egg, shredded radicchio with anchovy vinaigrette, bread crumbs and, 150–51
sikamea oysters, 75–76
skate, in piccolo fritto, 110
skirt steak, 368–70
and white bean sandwich, 370
slow-scrambled eggs with bottarga, and variations, 182–84
smelt, in piccolo fritto, 110
smoked prosciutto, 80
crostini with egg salad, rosemary-pickled peppers and, 125
with spiced Zante grapes and fennel, 87
smoked trout, crostini with fava-egg salad and, 125
sole, in piccolo fritto, 110
with shallots, sea beans, and sherry vinegar, 317–18
soppressata, 80
see also salami
sorbet:
about, 463–64
basic method, 464–65
berry, 468–69
lemon, 471–72
nectarine, 470
orange, 472
plum, 470
strawberry, 467
strawberry balsamic, 467
sorrel:
and onion panade, 230
stracciatelle in broth with, 158
soups, 157–72
asparagus and rice, with pancetta and black pepper, 166–67
beef broth with marrow croûtons and a truffled egg, 160–61
boiled kale, four ways, 162–63
corn-shrimp bisque, 170–72
farro, turning farrotto into, 200–201
la garbure landaise, 169–70
onion, with tomato and a poached egg, 159–60
pappa al pomodoro, 164–65
stracciatelle in broth with sorrel, 158
sweet red pepper–lentil, with cumin and black pepper, 167–68
sources and resources, 518–20
Spanish serrano ham, 80
spätzle, Martha’s, 220–21
speck, 80
see also smoked prosciutto
spiced prunes, 278
spiced Zante grapes, 276–77
smoked prosciutto with fennel and, 87
spinach:
ricotta gnocchi, 226
wilted, shrimp cooked in romesco with, 334–37
spring lamb legs, roasting, 398–99
squab:
grilled, 364
roasted, 363–64
stock, 67–68
squash:
risotto with wild rice, wild mushrooms and, 197–99
summer, grilled, 243–44
summer, in piccolo fritto, 109
squash blossoms:
corn-stuffed, and mozzarella and Sweet 100 tomatoes, piccolo fritto, 113
in piccolo fritto, 109
squid:
chick peas, and Sweet 100 tomatoes, piccolo fritto, 114
cleaning, 338–39
in piccolo fritto, 109–10
stew, spicy, with red wine and roasted peppers, 338–39
standing rib roast of pork, 403–6
starchy dishes, 189–230
steak:
hanger, 368–70
hanger, and white bean sandwich, 370
skirt, 368–70
skirt, and white bean sandwich, 370
stew:
spicy squid, with red wine and roasted peppers, 338–39
spicy tripe, eggs cooked in, 186–88
Stilton, 453
stock, 53–70
beef, 63–65
compound, 55–56
duck, 67–68
fish fumet, 68–70
guinea hen, 67–68
lamb, 65–66
quail, 67–68
rabbit, 67–68
rich pork, 61–63
shellfish fumet, 172
squab, 67–68
Zuni chicken, 58–60
stockpots, 49
stracciatelle in broth with sorrel, 158
strawberry(ies):
balsamic sorbet, 467
granita, 466–67
for granita and sorbet, 465–67
sorbet, 467
sugar snap boats, 252–53
summer squash:
grilled, 243–44
in piccolo fritto, 109
sweating, 165–66
sweet corn, raw, arugula salad with Sweet 100 tomatoes, 148–49
sweet potatoes, hashed, 239–40
sweet red pepper-lentil soup with cumin and black pepper, 167–68
tapenade, orange-olive, 304–5
-goat cheese crostini, watercress salad with beets and, 153
tart dough, basic rich, 480–86
tarts:
apricot, 490–91
double-crusted blackberry, 492–93
double-crusted blueberry, 492–93
double-crusted sweet cherry, 493
fruit, 486–93
lattice-topped sweet cherry, 493
onion, with apples and bacon, 120
onion, with saffron, tomato, anchovies, and olives, 119
open-faced apple, 489–90
open-faced pear, 489–90
prune-plum, 490–91
tea:
black, prunes in, 278–79
prunes and cranberries in, 279
tempering, 120–21, 433, 483, 486
tenderloin, pork, house-cured, 400–403
terrine, foie gras en, 436–39
Tête de Moine, 449
thermometers:
meat, 50–51
oven, 51
toasts:
balsamic–onion marmalade, rosemary-grilled chicken livers and bacon with, 127–29
boiled kale on, 162–63
see also crostini
Toma della Valcuvia, 451
tomato(es), 515–16
beef and onion gratin with, 389–91
charred Sweet 100, crostini with balsamic vinegar and, 123
corn-stuffed squash blossoms and mozzarella, piccolo fritto, with Sweet 100, 113
coulis, 287–88
and farro salad with basil and anchovies, 105–6
monkfish braised with white beans, fennel and, 326–28
onion soup with a poached egg and, 159–60
onion tart with saffron, anchovies, olives and, 119
squid and chick peas, piccolo fritto, with Sweet 100, 114
summer onion panade with, 230
summer pudding, 258–60
Sweet 100, arugula salad with raw sweet corn and, 148–49
whole sea bream roasted on onions with parsley, mint and, 319–21
tomato sauce:
coulis, 287–88
frittata with fideus and, 181–82
pasta with sardines and, 208–10
roasted, pasta with braised bacon and, 205–8
Tomme de Savoie, 449–50
tools, kitchen, 42–46
tripe stew, spicy, eggs cooked in, 186–88
Troisgros, Jean, 16–18, 20, 21, 27, 174, 366
Troisgros, Jean-Baptiste, 18–19, 21, 22, 27, 439, 501
Troisgros, Pierre, 17–18, 174
trout, smoked, crostini with fava-egg salad and, 125
truffled:
beets, 240, 241
brouillade, 184
egg, beef broth with marrow croûtons and a, 160–61
Truffled Crutin, 449
truffles, carpaccio with fried potatoes and, 133–34
tuiles, 502–4
Tuma dla Paja, 451
tuna, preserved, pasta with pine nuts and, 211–13
turkey, brine for curing, 402
Tuscan pecorino, aged, Carlo’s farro salad with, 106
tying up meat, 406–7
Union Hotel, 22–23, 25, 394
Vacherin, 450–51
vegetable confetti, minutina salad with coriander vinaigrette and, 146–47
vegetable peelers, 44
vegetables:
savory fruit dishes, pickles and preserves, 231–82
wine and, 233
see also specific vegetables
Vella Aged Dry Jack, Special Reserve, 450
veritabile uova in trippa, 186–88
Vermont Shepherd Cheese, 452
vinaigrette, 284–85
anchovy, shredded radicchio with bread crumbs, sieved egg and, 150–51
coriander, air-dried beef with butter lettuce and, 92–93
coriander, minutina salad with vegetable confetti and, 146–47
hazelnut, mixed lettuces with mandarins, hazelnuts and, 140–41
shallot, butter lettuce with oranges, avocado and, 143–44
vinegar:
chicken braised with figs, honey and, 350–52
sherry, sand dabs with shallots, sea beans and, 317–19
see also balsamic vinegar
virginica oysters, 75, 77
walnut(s):
-celery-dried fig relish with grappa, antipasto of salami, Idiazabal and, 89–90
fresh, Bosc pears with fennel, Parmigiano-Reggiano, balsamic vinegar and, 107
-mascarpone crostini, watercress salad with beets and, 152–53
see also nuts
watercress salad:
with beets and tapenade-goat cheese crostini, 153
with beets and walnut-mascarpone crostini, 152–53
watermelon granita, 473
Waters, Alice, 20–21, 22
weights, 40–42
West, Billy, 24–26, 420
white asparagus, raw, and porcini mushrooms with hazelnuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and white truffle oil, 96–98
white bean(s):
monkfish braised with fennel, tomato and, 326–28
and skirt steak or hanger steak sandwich, 370
white truffle oil, raw white asparagus and porcini mushrooms with hazelnuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano and, 96–98
wild mushrooms, 516–17
risotto with wild rice, squash and, 197–99
Zuni fideus with peas and, 217–19
wild rice, risotto with squash, wild mushrooms and, 197–99
wine:
cheese and, 448–49
choosing, 52
cured meats and, 81
dessert and, 456
Muscat, peaches in, 501–2
piccolo fritto and, 114–15
salads and, 137–38
vegetables and, 233
see also red wine
Wood-Setrakian, Beth, 480
Zante grapes:
apple crostata with, 495–96
fresh, in piccolo fritto, 109
onions, fennel and, piccolo fritto, 114
spiced, 276–77
spiced, smoked prosciutto with fennel and, 87
zests, citrus, 507–8
zucchini:
grilled, 243–44
pickles, 269–70
Zuni:
Caesar salad, 154–56
chicken stock, 58–60
fideus with wild mushrooms and peas, 217–19
hamburger, 366–68
ricotta gnocchi, 221–26
roast chicken with bread salad, 342–46
salt-cured anchovies, 72–73
Zuni Café, 14–16, 24–28, 420