At the Heart

                              

Summer at La Citadelle.

                              

To Régis Labeaume

Dear Régis,

I’m writing you from one of my favourite places in all the land – La Citadelle in Quebec City. From this majestic structure, I look about and see a great deal literally and figuratively.

I gaze west across the waters of the St. Lawrence River – narrower here than at most spots along its course but still broad and deep – and I think of Samuel de Champlain and his leadership in founding the first permanent settlement in what would become Canada. The Aboriginal peoples of this region are also vivid in my mind, especially the Algonquin, whose word for the narrowing of the waters – Kebec – gave this city and province its name. A fitting choice of name for a wisely chosen site: Quebec City’s position at the neck of the St. Lawrence would enable it to control for generations the traffic of people and goods from the Atlantic Ocean to deep within the Canadian interior and vice versa. Far below my gaze to the south sits the old city with its ancient port, basin, and winding lanes. Artemus Ward, an American humorist, wrote that these streets don’t lead anywhere in particular yet everywhere in general. Within the maze of asphalt and cobblestones is Parc Montmorency, site of the Old Parliament Building wherein the Quebec Conference was held and leaders of the British North American colonies set down the building blocks of Canada’s constitution – a historic gathering whose 150th anniversary I had the honour of celebrating with you and the people of the city by unveiling a statue of Étienne-Paschal Taché, the too-often-forgotten Father of Confederation, who was chairman of the conference. Extending east and north from my vantage point is the modern Quebec City, a mix of old and new: soaring towers, venerable churches, and the elegant symmetry of the Parliament Building, which today houses the province’s national assembly. And turning again to the west spreads the grassy green Plains of Abraham, where two empires met one morning to determine the fate of half a continent.

Looking at Quebec City from this special perch atop Cap Diamant, therefore, I see not only the city you lead, but also the country we all love – its origins, its traditions, its growth, and its splendour. This city is the heart of Canada. In his book Three Weeks in Quebec – a history of the 1864 conference – Christopher Moore quotes American writer Henry James recounting his train trip to this vital place. James describes “a dreary night journey through crude, monotonous woods” until the rail line reached the south shore of the St. Lawrence River and then “beyond it, over against you, on its rocky promontory, sits the ancient town, belted with its hoary wall and crowned with its granite citadel.” James’s use of that word – crowned – is perfectly fitting. La Citadelle surmounts the city physically, and from its founding in 1608 by Champlain until Confederation in 1867, Quebec City was the wellspring of the Crown in Canada, the sovereign authority in this land – first as the centre of New France and then as the seat of government for the Province of Canada and residence of the governor general of British North America. Lord Dufferin understood the importance of the Crown to Canada and therefore the significance of Quebec City and La Citadelle to our country. That understanding inspired our third governor general to make this old fortress the second vice-regal residence and to lead the effort to preserve much of the city’s fortifications and defences. So if Quebec City is the heart of Canada, I believe La Citadelle is the heart of the city.

I am the current heir of this grand legacy. As you know, Sharon and I stay at La Citadelle for some weeks each year. This time is close to my heart. I cherish the ability being here gives me to experience the city and meet the people of Quebec City, as well as the many people from across Canada and throughout the world who choose it as a vacation destination. Wise people. La Citadelle remains a working site as well. Here our country’s governors general grant awards, present honours for bravery and exceptional service, receive letters of credence from ambassadors and high commissioners, and inspect the honour guard of the Royal 22nd Regiment of the Canadian Armed Forces, whose home is La Citadelle and who recently celebrated their 100th anniversary. The history of the Van Doos mirrors much of that of our country – another reason that makes their home city so special and so representative of the whole nation.

This is what I see at the heart of the city at the heart of the country. Thank you for giving me this opportunity to share my view with you.

Heartily yours,

David

Régis Labeaume is mayor of Quebec City.