Side Dishes

 

“It’s raining beans.”

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Annette Ragg of Lebanon Junction, Kentucky, had been married for about five years when her mother gave her a pressure cooker. It was an hour before supper, and she had promised her husband, Frank, a big pot of beans. They were cooking in the new pressure cooker, and Annette had gone out in the yard to take the laundry off the clothesline. All of a sudden, her four-year-old son, Mark, ran out onto the porch screaming, “Mom, it’s raining beans.” Annette ran inside to find beans on the ceiling, on the cabinets, and all over the walls. It truly was “raining beans.” As you may have guessed, Annette has never used a pressure cooker again. And as she emptied her house before moving to her new home, she found beans that had rained in places she couldn’t believe.

One of the most challenging cooking tasks I face is to make side dishes exciting. I’m always looking for new ones and those that are pleasing to the eye as well as the palate. My Polenta-Stuffed Red Bell Peppers have always been a hit at my table, and Grilled Balsamic vegetables are a great choice when I entertain outside. I’ve included good comfort dishes, such as Creamed Potatoes and Peas and Layered Sauerkraut and Neffles, passed down to my mom from my great-aunts (one of only a handful I’ve included since writing Kentucky’s Best). As always, take advantage of the bounty of vegetables that are in season, and you can’t go wrong.

ImageBRAISED CABBAGEImage

½ cup (1 stick) butter

1 (3-pound) green cabbage, cored and coarsely chopped

1 cup dry white wine, or 1 cup chicken broth with 1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 teaspoon dried tarragon

1¼ teaspoons salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

In large skillet, melt butter. Add cabbage and stir to coat with butter. Cook for about 15 minutes, until cabbage is wilted. Add remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil and reduce heat, cover, and simmer until cabbage is tender, about 10 minutes. Remove cover and let juice reduce, stirring occasionally.

Yield: 6 servings

ImageBAKED SPAGHETTI SQUASHImage
CASSEROLE

1 spaghetti squash, halved and seeded

1 pound ground beef

½ cup diced green bell pepper

½ cup diced red bell pepper

¼ cup diced red onion

1 clove garlic, chopped

1 (14½-ounce) can Italian-style diced tomatoes, drained

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon dried basil

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon pepper

2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place squash on baking sheet and bake for 40 minutes, or until tender. Cool and shred pulp with a fork.

Reduce oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a casserole dish. In a skillet, cook ground beef over medium heat until evenly brown. Drain and mix in green and red peppers, onion, and garlic. Continue to cook and stir until vegetables are tender. Mix shredded squash and tomatoes into the skillet, and add oregano, basil, salt, and pepper. Cook and stir until heated through. Remove skillet from heat and mix in 1¼ cups cheese until melted. Transfer to casserole dish. Bake for 25 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining cheese and bake for 5 minutes, until cheese is melted.

Yield: 6 servings

ImageACORN SQUASH SOUPImage
WITH CROUTONS

I’ve included this recipe with the side dishes because it makes a great accompaniment to a meat entrée.

Squash Soup

Vegetable or olive oil

2 small acorn squash, halved and seeded

1 onion, diced

2 parsnips, diced

2 celery stalks, diced small

2 cups clear vegetable broth

2 cups chicken broth

2 teaspoons butter

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 cup milk

2 to 3 teaspoons salt

½ to 1 teaspoon white pepper

Croutons

4 slices stale bread, cubed

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, melted

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Pinch of salt and white pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. To make soup, rub oil on inside of squash halves and lay face down on baking sheet. Bake until fork-tender and can easily be peeled, about 15 to 20 minutes. Cool and cut into 2-inch chunks. In medium saucepan, bring squash, onion, parsnips, celery, and vegetable and chicken broth to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. Strain the soup and reserve the liquid. In a food processor, puree the solids with 1 cup of the reserved liquid.

In medium saucepan, warm butter over low heat. Stir in cayenne pepper and cinnamon, and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the puree and 1 cup of the reserved liquid. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in milk, salt, and pepper. If you prefer thinner soup, add more of the reserved liquid.

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. To make croutons, combine ingredients in a bowl and toss until butter is absorbed and spices completely coat the bread. Place on cookie sheet and bake for 25 minutes, tossing often to ensure proper browning and crispness. Serve soup topped with croutons.

Yield: 4 servings

ImageHONEY-BAKED APPLESImage

4 cups good-quality apple cider

½ cup light brown sugar, packed

Image cup honey

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

Pinch of salt

2 tablespoons butter

6 Golden Delicious or McIntosh apples, unpeeled, halved, and cored with a melon baller

½ cup golden raisins

In medium saucepan, combine cider, sugar, honey, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and butter. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 25 minutes, until mixture is syrupy.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In large baking dish, place apples cut side down and pour syrup over them. Distribute raisins evenly over apples. Cover tightly with aluminum foil. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until apples are almost tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife. Remove from oven and turn apples over. Baste with syrup several times and cover with aluminum foil. Return to oven for 5 minutes, remove from oven, and allow to set, covered, for 15 minutes. Baste before serving.

Yield: 6 servings

ImageSCALLOPED CORNImage

2 tablespoons butter

1 medium onion, chopped

½ cup chopped red bell pepper

1 (10-ounce) bag frozen corn kernels, thawed

2 eggs, lightly beaten

1 (15-ounce) can cream-style corn

¼ teaspoon salt

Image cup crushed buttery crackers

1 cup milk

2 ounces sharp Cheddar cheese, shredded

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease 2-quart baking dish. In small pan, heat butter and sauté onion and red pepper until tender. Remove from heat and add corn kernels. In a bowl, combine eggs, cream-style corn, salt, cracker crumbs, and milk. Add to onion mixture and pour into baking dish. Sprinkle with cheese. Bake, uncovered, for 40 minutes, until golden brown.

Yield: 8 servings

ImageCORN QUICHEImage

1 bunch green onions

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup fresh corn kernels (2 ears of corn)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 9-inch pie crust, unbaked

½ cup milk

½ cup heavy cream

2 eggs

6 ounces Gruyère or Monterey Jack cheese, shredded

Freshly grated nutmeg

Cut off 1 inch of stalks of green onions and then cut into ½-inch pieces. Sauté onion in oil until translucent. Add corn and thyme, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Place corn mixture in pie crust.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Whisk together milk, cream, and eggs. Sprinkle half the cheese over corn mixture. Pour milk mixture over corn mixture and cheese, and grate nutmeg over quiche. Top with remaining cheese. Bake for 30 to 45 minutes or until center is set.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

ImageCREAMED POTATOES AND PEASImage

4 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed

1 (15-ounce) can sweet peas, very early young

1 teaspoon sugar

3 tablespoons butter

¾ cup flour

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon pepper

1½ cups milk

In pot, cover potatoes with water and cook over medium heat until fork-tender. Simmer peas until heated thoroughly. Drain and add sugar. In saucepan, melt butter and add flour, salt, and pepper to form a paste. Gradually stir in milk and, stirring constantly, bring to a boil over medium heat. Boil for 1 minute. Drain potatoes and combine with peas in a bowl. Pour white sauce over potatoes and peas, and stir to coat. Serve immediately.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

ImageHONEY-BAKED TOMATOESImage

Some of the greatest side dishes are those made with garden-fresh tomatoes. This is one of my favorite summer go-to sides.

1Image cups fresh bread crumbs

Image cup olive oil

1 teaspoon coarse salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

5 tablespoons honey

Pinch of ground nutmeg

5 or 6 medium ripe heirloom tomatoes (if not available, I use ripe Better Boy variety)

Fresh parsley or basil leaves for garnish (I prefer basil)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sprinkle bread crumbs in square baking dish and toss with oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake, stirring often, until golden brown and crunchy, about 20 minutes. Remove bread crumbs from dish and set aside.

In small saucepan, warm honey over low heat and add nutmeg. Cut tops off tomatoes and set them in the baking dish. Drizzle half the honey mixture over tomatoes and gently mound bread crumbs on each one. Bake for 25 minutes, basting frequently with honey mixture. Garnish with parsley or basil.

Yield: 5 or 6 servings

ImageGREENS WITH PINTO BEANSImage

1 pound fresh greens of choice (collard, spinach, kale, turnip), rinsed several times

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 gloves garlic, minced

3 green onions, finely chopped

1 cup canned pinto beans, undrained

1 teaspoon chili powder

Salt and pepper to taste

In tightly covered pot, steam greens until wilted. Drain and finely chop them. In large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add garlic and green onions, and cook, stirring often, until onions are soft, about 3 minutes. Stir in greens, beans, and chili powder. Cover and cook over low heat for 5 minutes or until heated through. Season with salt and pepper.

Yield: 6 servings

ImageBAKED ACORN SQUASHImage

1 acorn squash, halved and seeded

2 teaspoons plus 1 tablespoon butter or margarine

1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

3 tablespoons crushed pineapple

Ground nutmeg

¼ teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grease baking dish. Place squash in baking dish and put 1 teaspoon butter or margarine and ¼ tablespoon sugar in each half. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 30 to 40 minutes. Carefully scoop cooked squash out of shells, reserving shells. Mash squash and combine with 1 tablespoon butter or margarine and remaining brown sugar, pineapple, nutmeg, and salt. Fill shells and serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings

ImageOVEN-ROASTEDImage
SWEET POTATOES

3 sweet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced

1 clove garlic, crushed

2 tablespoons olive oil

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

Zest of ¼ orange, finely chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In large bowl, combine sweet potatoes, garlic, and oil. Toss to coat. Spread on a nonstick baking sheet. Bake, turning potatoes as they begin to brown, for about 35 to 40 minutes.

Mix parsley, thyme, and orange zest. Sprinkle over potatoes and season with salt and pepper. Return to oven and bake for 10 to 15 minutes until potatoes are tender, turning once.

Yield: 4 servings

ImageGRILLED BALSAMIC VEGETABLESImage

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup balsamic vinegar

1 zucchini, cut into long wedges or peeled into long ribbons

1 large tomato, halved

1 red bell pepper, cut into thick strips

1 yellow or orange bell pepper, cut into thick strips

1 large portobello mushroom

1 red onion, halved

Sea salt, coarsely ground, to taste

Mix oil and vinegar, and brush onto vegetables. Sprinkle with sea salt. Grill over hot coals, turning until grill marks appear on both sides.

Yield: 2 or 3 servings

ImagePOLENTA-STUFFEDImage
RED BELL PEPPERS

6 red bell peppers

1 tablespoon butter

½ cup chopped onion

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 cup polenta or coarse cornmeal

3½ cups chicken broth

½ cup heavy cream

¾ cup corn kernels, fresh or frozen

4 tablespoons fresh basil (no substitutions)

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro (no substitutions)

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

½ cup freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese

½ cup Fontina cheese

Grease shallow baking dish with butter. Slice the tops off red peppers and remove seeds and ribs. Flatten peppers for standing by trimming off a small amount from the bottom, making sure not to cut all the way through. Arrange peppers in baking dish.

In saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion and garlic, and cook until onion is wilted, about 3 minutes. Add polenta or cornmeal and mix well. Slowly pour in broth, stirring constantly to combine. Add cream, corn, basil, cilantro, salt, pepper, and ¼ cup Romano or Parmesan cheese. Cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until polenta becomes very thick, about 8 to 10 minutes.

Fill peppers with polenta mixture and sprinkle with remaining Romano or Parmesan and Fontina cheeses. Stand peppers upright. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bake for 25 minutes, until golden brown. Serve immediately.

Yield: 6 servings

ImageGLAZED FALL VEGETABLESImage

Vegetable or olive oil

1 acorn squash, halved and seeded

2 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch slices

1 large white potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch slices

3 carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch slices

1 large yellow onion, cut into ½-inch slices

½ cup dark brown sugar, packed

¼ cup maple syrup

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter

¼ cup water

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Rub oil on inside of squash halves and lay face down on baking sheet. Bake until squash can easily be peeled, about 15 to 20 minutes. Cool and cut into quarters.

Place squash, sweet potatoes, white potato, carrots, and onion in a bowl. Add sugar, maple syrup, vanilla extract, and cinnamon. Toss well. Place in 9 × 13-inch glass baking dish. Cut butter into pieces and scatter over the top. Pour water into baking dish. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove foil and stir vegetables. Bake, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes or until vegetables are tender and lightly browned.

Yield: 4 servings

ImageLAYERED SAUERKRAUTImage
AND NEFFLES

My great-aunts, Matt and Frank, were as spirited as their nicknames. We looked forward to their visits because we knew that they would cook all day. Aunt Matt made the most wonderful little German dumplings that were as light as a feather—not at all like traditional egg dumplings.

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

2 tablespoons oil or melted shortening

1 egg, lightly beaten

¾ cup cold water

4 strips bacon

2 large onions, thinly sliced

1 (8-ounce) bag fresh sauerkraut

Bring 2 quarts water to a boil. Combine flour, salt, and baking powder. Add oil, egg, and cold water. Mix well. Drop by the teaspoonful into boiling water. Cook, uncovered, over medium heat for about 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.

In heavy skillet, fry bacon until crisp. Remove, drain, and crumble when cool. Sauté onions in bacon fat until clear. In another saucepan, heat sauerkraut thoroughly.

In a 9 × 13-inch glass baking dish, layer half the sauerkraut, dumplings, bacon, and onions. Layer remaining half and serve immediately.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

ImageSOUTHERN TURNIP GREENSImage

4 to 5 pounds turnip greens

1 pound salt pork, rinsed and diced

1½ cups water

1 cup finely chopped onion

½ teaspoon pepper

1 teaspoon sugar (optional)

Dash of crushed red pepper (optional)

Salt and pepper to taste

Cider vinegar

Cut off and discard tough stems and discolored leaves from turnip greens. Wash thoroughly and drain well.

In large pot or Dutch oven, cook pork over medium heat until crisp and brown. Add turnip greens, water, onion, pepper, sugar, and red pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 40 to 45 minutes or until greens are tender. Season with salt and pepper, and serve with vinegar.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

ImageGARLIC MASHED POTATOESImage

6 large Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into small pieces

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter

¾ cup milk or half-and-half

2 teaspoons minced garlic

Salt and pepper to taste

Boil potatoes until fork-tender. Remove from heat and drain. Melt butter and warm milk or half-and-half. Mash potatoes, with either a hand masher or a mixer, adding butter, garlic, and salt and pepper. Once potatoes are no longer lumpy, slowly add milk, mashing until desired consistency is reached. You may not need all the milk. Season with salt and pepper.

Yield: 6 servings

ImageMEXICAN CHARRO BEANSImage

1 pound dried pinto beans

6 strips bacon, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

4 medium fresh plum tomatoes, chopped

2 medium onions, chopped

1 medium green bell pepper, chopped

1 (12-ounce) can beer, or 1½ cups water

½ bunch fresh cilantro, chopped

2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

Soak beans in cold water for 30 minutes. Rinse and pick over beans. In large pot, bring to a boil and cook over medium heat for 1½ to 2 hours, until tender but still firm.

Before beans are done, fry bacon in large skillet until halfway cooked. Add garlic, tomatoes, onions, and green pepper, and continue to cook until bacon is crisp. Add beer or water to bacon mixture and simmer for a few minutes, or longer if you like beans softer and less soupy. Add cilantro and jalapeños, and combine bacon mixture with beans. Season with salt and pepper.

Yield: 6 servings

ImageGREAT GARBANZOSImage

1 medium onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

2 carrots, grated

½ teaspoon grated ginger root

¼ cup vegetable broth

2 potatoes, peeled and cubed

1 fresh tomato, chopped

2 cups garbanzo beans, cooked

½ cup tomato paste

1 (15-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained

¼ teaspoon coriander

¼ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large stockpot, sauté onion, garlic, carrots, and ginger root in broth for 10 minutes. Add potatoes and tomato. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes. Add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer for 30 minutes.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

ImageNOODLE KUGELImage

2 cups chopped onion

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese

1 (12-ounce) package wide egg noodles, cooked until soft

¾ cup golden raisins

1 tablespoon chicken bouillon granules

1 pint small-curd cottage cheese

1 pint sour cream

6 large eggs

Salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon butter, cut into small pieces

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly grease a casserole dish. In medium skillet, sauté onion in oil until brown and caramelized. In large bowl, pour onion over cream cheese and allow cheese to melt. Add noodles to cream cheese mixture. Stir in raisins, bouillon, cottage cheese, and sour cream.

Beat eggs with a fork until well blended. Pour into noodle mixture and blend well. Season with salt and pepper. Put noodle mixture in casserole dish and dot the top with butter. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

ImageMARINATED TOMATOESImage
AND ASPARAGUS

1 pound fresh asparagus, with ends trimmed and outer skin peeled from bottom of stalks

1 pound grape tomatoes, halved

4 cloves garlic, minced

Image cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fresh basil

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

In large skillet, bring a small amount of salted water to a boil. Cook asparagus for 2 minutes. Immediately put in ice water to stop cooking. Drain well. Cut into 1-inch pieces. In a large bowl, mix asparagus with remaining ingredients and toss gently. Refrigerate overnight.

Yield: 8 servings

ImagePUREED BUTTERNUT SQUASHImage

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter

1 small onion, sliced

1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into chunks

1 white turnip, peeled and sliced

1 large ripe pear, peeled and cored

Salt and pepper to taste

In large, heavy pan, melt butter and sauté onion until soft. Add squash, turnip, and pear. Simmer, covered, until tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add a small amount of water if vegetables become dry. Remove mixture from pan and puree in a food processor until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.

Yield: 8 servings

ImageCELERY BAKEImage

2 cups sliced celery

1 (8-ounce) jar water chestnuts

1 (15-ounce) can cream of mushroom soup

½ cup (1 stick) butter, melted

1 sleeve crackers, such as Ritz or Town House, finely crushed

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cook celery in boiling water for about 7 minutes and drain. Combine with water chestnuts, soup, and half the butter, and place in 2-quart baking dish. Mix cracker crumbs with remaining butter and sprinkle on top of mixture. Bake for 30 minutes.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings