Aagaard, T., Davidson-Arnott, R., Greenwood, B. and Nielsen, J., 2004. ‘Sediment supply from shoreface to dunes: linking sediment transport measurements and long-term morphological evolution.’ Geomorphology, 60, 205–224.
Aagaard, T., Kroon, A., Greenwood, B. and Hughes, M.G., 2010. ‘Observations of offshore bar decay: Sediment budgets and the role of lower shoreface processes.’ Continental Shelf Research, 30, 1497–1510.
Aagaard, T., Kroon, A., Hughes, M.G. and Greenwood, B., 2008. ‘Field observations of nearshore bar formation.’ Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 33, 1021–1032.
Aagaard, T. and Masselink, G., 1999. ‘Chapter 4: The surf zone.’ In: A.D. Short (ed) Beach Morphodynamics. Wiley and Sons, London, 72–118.
Allen, G.P., Salomon, J.C., Bassoulet, P., Du Penhoat, Y. and Du Grandpré, C., 1980. ‘Effects of tides on mixing and suspended sediment transport in macrotidal estuaries.’ Sedimentary Geology, 26, 69–90.
Allen, J.R.L., 1984. Sedimentary Structures: Their Character and Physical Basis. Elsevier, Amsterdam.
Allen, J.R.L., 1985. Principles of Physical Sedimentology. George Allen and Unwin, London.
Allen, J.R.L., 1994. ‘Fundamental properties of fluids and their relation to sediment transport.’ In: K. Pye (ed) Sediment Transport and Depositional Processes. Blackwell Scientific Publications, Oxford, 25–60.
Allen, P.A., 1997. Earth Surface Processes. Blackwell Science, Oxford.
Allison, R.J., (ed) 1992. The Coastal Landforms of West Dorset. Geologists’ Association Guide no. 47, Geologists’ Association, London.
André, M.-F., 2009. ‘From climatic to global change geomorphology: contemporary shifts in periglacial geomorphology.’ In: J. Knight and S. Harrison (eds) Periglacial and Paraglacial Processes and Environments. Geological Society of London Special Publications, 320, 5–28.
Arens, S.M., 1994. Aeolian Processes in the Dutch Foredunes. PhD Thesis, University of Amsterdam.
Argus, D.F. and Peltier, W.R., 2010. ‘Constraining models of postglacial rebound using space geodesy: a detailed assessment of model ICE-5G (VM2) and its relatives.’ Geophysical Journal International, 181, 697–723.
Augustinus, P.G.E.F., 1989. ‘Cheniers and chenier plains: A general introduction.’ Marine Geology, 90, 219–229.
Austin, M.J., Scott, T.M., Brown, J.W., Brown, J.A., MacMahan, J., Masselink, G. and Russell, P.E., 2010. ‘Temporal observations of rip current circulation on a macro-tidal beach.’ Continental Shelf Research, 30, 1149–1165.
Avoine, J., 1981. L’Estuare de la Seine: Sediments et Dynamique Sedimentaire. These, Docteur de Specialite. Université de Caen, France.
Bagnold, R.A., 1941. The Physics of Blown Sand and Desert Dunes. Methuen, London.
Bagnold, R.A., 1963. ‘Mechanics of marine sedimentation.’ In: M.N. Hill (ed) The Sea, Vol. 3. Wiley-Interscience, New York, 507–528.
Bagnold, R.A., 1966. An Approach to the Sediment Transport Problem from General Physics. Professional Paper no. 422-I, United States Geological Survey.
Bailey, S.D. and Bristow, C.S., 2004. ‘Migration of parabolic dunes at Aberffraw, Anglesey, north Wales.’ Geomorphology, 59, 165–174.
Barry, R.G. and Chorley, R.J., 2003. Atmosphere, Weather and Climate (8th edn). Routledge, London.
Bartrum, J.A., 1916. ‘High water rock platforms: A phase of shoreline erosion.’ Transactions New Zealand Institution, 48, 132–134.
Bascom, W.H., 1953. ‘Characteristics of natural beaches.’ Proceedings 4th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. ASCE, 163–180.
Bascom, W.H., 1980. Waves and Beaches. Anchor Books, Garden City.
Bascom, W.N., 1951. ‘The relationship between sand size and beach-face slope.’ Transactions, American Geophysical Union, 32, 866–874.
Bates, C.C., 1953. ‘Rational theory of delta formation.’ Bulletin of the American Association of Petroleum Geologists, 37, 2119–2161.
Battjes, J.A., 1974. ‘Surf similarity.’ Proceedings 14th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. ASCE, 466–480.
Bayliss-Smith, T.P., 1988. ‘The role of hurricanes in the development of reef islands, Ontong Java Atoll, Solomon Islands.’ Geographical Journal, 154, 377–391.
Bayram, A., Larson, M. and Hanson, H., 2007. ‘A new formula for the total longshore sediment transport rate.’ Coastal Engineering, 54, 700–710.
Been, K., and Sills, G.C., 1981. ‘Self weight consolidation of soft soils: An experimental and theoretical study.’ Geotechnique, 31, 519–535.
Belderson, R.H., Pingree, R.D. and Griffiths, D.K., 1986. ‘Low sea level tidal origin of Celtic sea sand banks – evidence from numerical modelling of M2 tidal streams.’ Marine Geology, 73, 99–108.
Berger, A.L., 1992. ‘Astronomical theory of paleoclimates and the last glacial-interglacial cycle.’ Quaternary Science Reviews, 11, 571–582.
Bindoff, N.L., Willebrand, J., Artale, V., Cazenave, A., Gregory, J., Gulev, S., Hanawa, K., Le Quéré, C., Levitus, S., Nojiri, Y., Shum, C.K., Talley, L.D. and Unnikrishnan, A., 2007. ‘Observations: Oceanic Climate Change and Sea Level.’ In: S. Solomon, D. Qin, M. Manning, Z. Chen, M. Marquis, K.B. Averyt, M. Tignor and H.L Miller (eds) Climate Change 2007: The Physical Science Basis. Contribution of Working Group I to the Fourth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 386–432.
Bird, E.C.F., 1993. Submerging coasts: The Effects of a Rising Sea Level on Coastal Environments. Wiley and Sons, Chichester.
Bird, E.C.F., 2000. Coastal Geomorphology: An Introduction. Wiley and Sons, Chichester.
Blakemore, F. and Williams, A., 2008. ‘British tourists’ valuation of a Turkish beach using contingent valuation and travel cost methods.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 24, 1469–1480.
Blanchon, P. and Shaw, J., 1995. ‘Reef drowning during the last deglaciation: Evidence for catastrophic sea-level rise and ice-sheet collapse.’ Geology, 23, 4–8.
Blikra, L.H. and Nemec, W., 1998. ‘Postglacial colluvium in western Norway: depositional processes, facies and palaeoclimatic record.’ Sedimentology, 45, 909–959.
Blum, M.D. and Roberts, H.H., 2009. ‘Drowning of the Mississippi Delta due to insufficient sediment supply and global sea-level rise.’ Nature Geoscience, 2, 488–491.
Boggs, S., 1995. Principles of Sedimentology and Stratigraphy (2nd edn). Prentice Hall, New Jersey.
Boorman, L.A., Goss-Custard, J.D. and McGrorty, S., 1989. Climate Change, Rising Sea Level and the British Coast. London, HMSO.
Bowen, A.J., Inman, D.L. and Simmons, V.P., 1968. ‘Wave ‘setdown’ and setup’. Journal of Geophysical Research, 73, 2569–2577.
Bradbury, R.H. and Seymour, R.M., 2009. ‘Coral reef science and the new commons’. Coral Reefs, 28, 831–837.
Bretschneider, C.L., 1952. ‘The generation and decay of wind waves in deep water’. Transactions American Geophysical Union, 33, 381–389.
Briggs, D., Smithson, P., Addison, K. and Atkinson, K., 1997. Fundamentals of the Physical Environment (2nd edn). Routledge, London.
Brommer, M.B. and Bochev-van der Burgh, L.M., 2009. ‘Sustainable Coastal Zone Management: A concept for forecasting long-term and large-scale coastal evolution’. Journal of Coastal Research, 25, 181–188.
Brunsden, D. and Goudie, A., 1997. Classic Landforms of the West Dorset Coast. Geographical Association, Sheffield.
Bruun, P., 1954. Coastal Erosion and the Development of Beach Profiles. US Army Beach Erosion Board, Technical Memorandum, 44.
Bruun, P., 1962. ‘Sea level rise as a cause of shore erosion’. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, ASCE, 88, 117–130.
Bryant, E., 2001. Tsunami: The underrated hazard. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.
Buddemeier, R.W. and Smith, S.V., 1988. ‘Coral reef growth in an era of rapidly rising sea level: Predictions and suggestions for long-term research’. Coral Reefs, 7, 51–56.
Burley, D., Jenkins, P., Laska, S. and Davis, T., 2007. ‘Place attachment and environmental change in coastal Louisiana’. Organization & Environment, 20, 347–366.
Burn, C.R. and Kokelj, S.V., 2009. ‘The environment and permafrost of the Mackenzie Delta area’. Permafrost and Periglacial Processes, 20, 83–105.
Burningham, H., 2005. ‘Morphodynamic behaviour of a high-energy coastal inlet: Loughros Beg, Donegal, Ireland.’ In: D.M. FitzGerald and J. Knight (eds) High Resolution Morphodynamics and Sedimentary Evolution of Estuaries. Springer, New York, 215–243.
Burningham, H., 2008. ‘Contrasting geomorphic response to structural control: The Loughros estuaries, northwest Ireland’. Geomorphology, 97, 300–320.
Buscombe, D. and Masselink, G., 2006. ‘Concepts in gravel beach dynamics’. Earth-Science Reviews, 79, 33–52.
Cane, M., 2005. ‘The evolution of El Niño, past and future’. Earth and Planetary Science Letters, 230, 227–240.
Cantin, N.E., Cohen, A.L., Karnauskas, K.B., Tarrant, A.M. and McCorkle, D.C., 2010. ‘Ocean warming slows coral growth in the central Red Sea’. Science, 329, 322–325.
Carr, A.P., 1971. ‘Experiments on longshore transport and sorting of pebbles: Chesil Beach, England’. Journal of Sedimentary Petrology, 41, 1084–1104.
Carr, A.P., Gleason, R. and King, A., 1970. ‘Significance of pebble size and shape in sorting by waves’. Sedimentary Geology, 4, 89–101.
Carter, R.W.G., 1988. Coastal Environments. Academic Press, London.
Carter, R.W.G., Nordstrom, K.F. and Psuty, N.P., 1990. ‘The study of coastal dunes.’ In: K.F Nordstrom, N.P. Psuty and R.W.G. Carter (eds) Coastal Dunes: Form and Process. John Wiley & Sons, London, 1–14.
Carter, R.W.G. and Orford, J.D., 1988. ‘Conceptual model of coarse clastic barrier formation from multiple sediment sources’. The Geographical Review, 78, 221–239.
Carter, R.W.G. and Wilson, P., 1990. ‘The geomorphological, ecological and pedological development of coastal foredunes at Magilligan Point, Northern Ireland.’ In: K.F. Nordstrom, N. Psuty and R.W.G. Carter (eds) Coastal Dunes: Form and Process. Wiley, London, 129–157.
Carter, R.W.G. and Wilson, P., 1991. ‘Chronology and geomorphology of the Irish dunes.’ In: M.B. Quigley (ed) A guide to the sand dunes of Ireland. Dublin: European Union for Dune Conservation and Coastal Management, 18–41.
Carter, R.W.G. and Woodroffe C.D., 1994. ‘Coastal evolution: An introduction.’ In: R.W.G. Carter and C.D. Woodroffe (eds) Coastal Evolution. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 1–31.
Cartwright, D.E., 1999. Tides: A Scientific History. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.
Castelle, B., Turner, I.L., Bertin, X. and Tomlinson, R., 2009. ‘Beach nourishments at Coolangatta Bay over the period 1987–2005: Impacts and lessons’. Coastal Engineering, 56, 940–950.
CERC, 1984. Shore Protection Manual (4th edn). Coastal Engineering Research Center, Waterway Experiment Station, Corps of Engineers, Vicksburg.
Chalikov, D., 2009. ‘Freak waves: their occurrence and probability.’ Physics of Fluids, 21, 076602, doi:10.1063/1.3175713.
Chandler, J.H. and Brunsden, D., 1995. ‘Steady state behaviour of the Black Ven mudslide: The application of archival analytical photogrammetry to studies of landform change’. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 20, 255–275.
Chapman, D.M., 1990. ‘Aeolian sand transport – an optimized model’. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 15, 751–760.
Chappell, J., 1980. ‘Coral morphology, diversity and reef growth’. Nature, 286, 249–252.
Chappell, J. and Shackleton, N.J., 1986. ‘Oxygen isotopes and sea level’. Nature, 324, 137–140.
Chelli, A., Pappalardo, M., Llopis, I.A. and Federici, P.R., 2010. ‘The relative influence of lithology and weathering in shaping shore platforms along the coastline of the Gulf of La Spezia (NW Italy) as revealed by rock strength’. Geomorphology, 118, 93–104.
Chepil, W.S., 1945. ‘Dynamics of wind erosion. 3. The transport capacity of the wind’. Soil Science, 60, 475–480.
Cherniawsky, J.Y., Foreman, M.G.G., Kang, S.K., Scharroo, R. and Eert, A.J., 2010. ‘18.6-year lunar nodal tides from altimeter data’. Continental Shelf Research, 30, 575–587.
Church, M. and Ryder, J.M., 1972. ‘Paraglacial sedimentation: a consideration of fluvial processes conditioned by glaciation’. Bulletin of the Geological Society of America, 83, 3059–3071.
Clarke, J.A., Farrell, W.E. and Peltier, W.R., 1978. ‘Global changes in postglacial sea level: A numerical calculation’. Quaternary Research, 9, 265–278.
Clarke, M.L. and Rendell, H.M., 2006. ‘The effects of storminess, sand supply and the North Atlantic Oscillation on sand invasion and coastal dune accretion in western Portugal’. The Holocene, 16, 341–355.
Clemmensen, L.B., Andreasen, F., Heinemeier, J. and Murray, A., 2001. ‘A Holocene coastal aeolian system, Vejers, Denmark: landscape evolution and sequence stratigraphy’. Terra Nova, 13, 129–134.
Coco, G., Huntley, D.A. and O’Hare, T.J., 2001. ‘Regularity and randomness in the formation of beach cusps’. Marine Geology, 178, 1–9.
Coco, G. and Murray, A.B., 2007. ‘Patterns in the sand: From forcing templates to self-organization’. Geomorphology, 91, 271–290.
Coco, G., O’Hare, T.J. and Huntley, D.A., 2000. ‘Investigation of a self-organisation model for beach cusp formation and development’. Journal of Geophysical Research, 105, 21991–22002.
Cohen, J.E., Small, C., Mellinger, A., Gallup, J. and Sachs, J., 1997. ‘Estimates of coastal populations’. Science, 278, 1211–1212.
Colella, A. and Prior, D.B. (eds), 1990. Coarse-grained Deltas. IAS Special Publication no 10, Blackwell Science, Oxford.
Coleman, J.M., 1982. Deltas: Processes of Deposition and Models for Exploration. International Human Resources Development Corporation, Boston.
Coleman, J.M., 1988. ‘Dynamic changes and processes in the Mississippi River delta.’ Geological Society of America Bulletin, 100, 999–1015.
Coleman, J.M., Roberts, H.H. and Stone, G.W., 1998. ‘Mississippi River delta: an overview.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 14, 698–716.
Coles, B.J., 2000. ‘Doggerland: the cultural dynamics of a shifting coastline.’ In: K. Pye and J.R.L. Allen (eds) Coastal and Estuarine Environments: sedimentology, geomorphology and geoarchaeology. Geological Society of London Special Publications, 175, 393–401.
Coley, D.A., 2008. Energy and Climate Change – creating a sustainable future. John Wiley & Sons, London.
Colle, B.A., Buonaiuto, F., Bowman, M.J., Wilson, R.E., Flood, R., Hunter, R., Mintz, A. and Hill, D., 2008. ‘New York City’s vulnerability to coastal flooding.’ Bulletin of the American Meteorological Society, 89, 829–841.
Cooper, G.R., 2007. Black Ven, Dorset. In: R.G. Cooper (ed) Mass Movements in Great Britain. Geological Conservation Review Series, No 33, Joint Nature Conservation Committee, Peterborough, 223–244.
Cooper, J.A.G. and McKenna, J., 2008. ‘Working with natural processes: the challenge for coastal protection strategies.’ Geographical Journal, 174, 315–331.
Cooper, J.A.G. and Pilkey, O.H., 2004. ‘Sea-level rise and shoreline retreat: time to abandon the Bruun Rule.’ Global and Planetary Change, 43, 157–171.
Cooper, S.R. and Brush, G.S., 1993. ‘A 2,500-year history of anoxia and eutrophication in Chesapeake Bay.’ Estuaries, 16, 617–626.
Corey, A.T., 1949. Influence of shape on the fall velocity of sand grains. Unpublished MS thesis, A&M College, Colorado.
Correggiari, A., Cattaneo, A. and Trincardi, F., 2005. ‘The modern Po Delta system: Lobe switching and asymmetric prodelta growth.’ Marine Geology, 222–223, 49–74.
Coughenour, C.L., Archer, A.W. and Lacovara, K.J., 2009. ‘Tides, tidalites, and secular changes in the Earth–Moon system.’ Earth-Science Reviews, 97, 59–79.
Cowell, P.J. and Thom, B.G., 1994. ‘Morphodynamics of coastal evolution.’ In: R.W.G. Carter and C.D. Woodroffe (eds) Coastal Evolution. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 33–86.
Cowell, P.J., Hanslow, D.J. and Meleo, J.F., 1999. ‘The shoreface.’ In: A.D. Short (ed) Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics. Wiley and Sons, Chichester, 39–71.
Crowell, M., Coulton, K., Johnson, C., Westcott, J., Bellomo, D., Edelman, S. and Hirsch, E., 2010. ‘An estimate of the US population living in 100-year coastal flood hazard areas.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 26, 201–211.
Dalrymple, R.W., Zaitlin, B.A., and Boyd, R., 1992. ‘Estuarine facies models: Conceptual basis and stratigraphic implications.’ Journal of Sedimentary Petrology, 62, 1130–1146.
Daly, R.A., 1915. ‘The glacial-control theory of coral reefs.’ American Academy of the Arts and Science, 51, 155–251.
Dana, J.D., 1849. Geology. Putnam, New York, Report US Exploration expedition 1838–1842, 10, 35–38.
Darwin, C.R., 1842. ‘The structure and distribution of coral reefs. Being the first part of the geology of the voyage of the Beagle, under the command of Capt. Fitzroy, R.N. during the years 1832 to 1836.’ Smith Elder and Co., London.
Davidson-Arnott, R., 2010. Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.
Davidson-Arnott, R.G.D., Yang, Y., Ollerhead, J., Hesp, P.A. and Walker, I.J., 2008. ‘The effects of surface moisture on aeolian sediment transport threshold and mass flux on a beach.’ Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 33, 55–74.
Davies, J.L., 1980. Geographical Variation in Coastal Development (2nd edn). Longman, New York.
Davis, R.A. and Hayes, M.O., 1984. ‘What is a wave-dominated coast.’ Marine Geology, 60, 313–329.
Dean, R.G., 1977. Equilibrium Beach Profiles: US Atlantic and Gulf Coasts. Ocean Engineering Technical Report, 12.
Dean, R.G., 1987. ‘Coastal sediment processes: Toward engineering solutions.’ Coastal Sediments’87, ASCE, 1–24.
Dean, R.G., 1991. ‘Equilibrium beach profiles: Characteristics and applications.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 7, 53–84.
Defant, A., 1958. Ebb and Flow. The University of Michigan Press.
Defeo, O., McLachlan, A., Schoeman, D.S., Schlacher, T.A., Dugan, J., Jones, A., Lastra, M. and Scapini, F., 2009. Threats to Sandy Beach Ecosystems: a review. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 81, 1–12.
Defant, A., 1961. Physical Oceanography. Volume 2, Pergamon Press.
De Lange, W.P. and Moon, V.G., 2005. ‘Estimating long-term cliff recession rates from shore platform widths.’ Engineering Geology, 80, 292–301.
Devine-Wright, P., 2005. ‘Beyond NIMBYism: towards an integrated framework for understanding public perceptions of wind energy.’ Wind Energy, 8, 125–139.
Dickson, M.E., Walkden, M.J.A. and Hall, J.W., 2007. ‘Systemic impacts of climate change on an eroding coastal region over the twenty-first century.’ Climatic Change, 84, 141–166.
Dyer, K.R., 1986. Coastal and Estuarine Sediment Dynamics. Wiley and Sons, Chichester.
Dyer, K.R., 1994. ‘Estuarine sediment transport and deposition.’ In: K. Pye (ed) Sediment Transport and Depositional Processes. Blackwell Scientific Publications, Oxford, 25–60.
Dyer, K.R., 1998. Estuaries: A Physical Introduction. Wiley and Sons, Chichester.
Edgren, G., 1993. ‘Expected economic and demographic developments in coastal zones world-wide.’ World Coast ′93, National Institute for Coastal and Marine Management, Coastal Zone Management Centre, Noordwijk, The Netherlands, 367–370.
Eisma, D., 1993. Suspended Matter in the Aquatic Environment. Springer-Verlag, Berlin.
Elliott, T., 1986. ‘Deltas.’ In: H.G. Reading (ed) Sedimentary Environments and Facies. Blackwell Science, Oxford, 113–154.
Ellis, J.T., Li, B., Farrell, E.J. and Sherman, D.J., 2009. ‘Protocols for characterizing aeolian mass-flux profiles.’ Aeolian Research, 1, 19–26.
Emery, K.O. and Kuhn, G.G., 1982. ‘Sea cliffs: Their processes, profiles and classification.’ Geological Society of America Bulletin, 93, 644–654.
EPICA community members, 2004. ‘Eight glacial cycles from an Antarctic ice core.’ Nature, 429, 623–628.
Ergin, A., Williams, A.T. and Micallef, A., 2006. ‘Coastal scenery: appreciation and evaluation.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 22, 958–964.
Eronen, M., 1983. ‘Late Weichselian and Holocene shore displacement in Finland.’ In: D.E. Smith and A.G. Dawson (eds) Shorelines and Isostasy. Academic Press, London, 183–207.
Esselborn, S. and Eden, C., 2001. ‘Sea surface height changes in the North Atlantic Ocean related to the North Atlantic Oscillation.’ Geophysical Research Letters, 28, 3473–3476.
Evans, M.N., Fairbanks, R.G. and Rubenstone, J.L., 1999. ‘The thermal oceanographic signal of El Niño reconstructed from a Kiritimati Island coral.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 104 (C6), 13409–13421.
Evans, M.N., Fairbanks, R.G. and Rubenstone, J.L., 1999. ‘The thermal oceanographic signal of El Niño reconstructed from a Kiritimati Island coral.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 104 (C6), 13409–13421.
Fairbanks, R.G., 1989. ‘A 17,000-year glacio-eustatic sea level record: Influence of glacial melting rates on the Younger Dryas event and deep-ocean circulation.’ Nature, 342, 637–342
Fairbridge, R.W., 1983. ‘Isostasy and eustasy.’ In: D.E. Smith and A.G. Dawson (eds) Shorelines and Isostasy. Academic Press, London, 37–25.
Farris, A.S. and List, J.H., 2007. ‘Shoreline change as a proxy for subaerial beach volume change.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 23, 740–748.
Fenton, J.D. and McKee, W.D., 1990. ‘On calculating the lengths of water waves.’ Coastal Engineering, 14, 499–513.
Finkl, C.W., 2004. ‘Coastal classification: systematic approaches to consider in the development of a comprehensive scheme.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 20, 166–213.
Fischlin, A., Midgley, G.F., Price, J.T., Leemans, R., Gopal, B., Turley, C., Rounsevell, M.D.A., Dube, O.P., Tarazona, J. and Velichko, A.A., 2007. ‘Ecosystems, their properties, goods, and services.’ In: M.L. Parry, O.F. Caniani, J.P. Palutikof, P.J. van der Linden and C.E. Hanson (eds) Climate Change 2007: Impacts, Adaptation and Vulnerability. Contribution of Working Group II to the Fourth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 211–272.
Flood, P.G., 1986. ‘Sensitivity of coral cays to climatic variations, southern Great Barrier Reef.’ Coral Reefs, 5, 13–18.
Folk, R.L. and Ward, W., 1957. ‘Brazos River bar: A study in the significance of grain size parameters.’ Journal of Sedimentary Petrology, 27, 3–26.
Forbes, D.L. and Syvitski, J.P.M., 1994. ‘Paraglacial coasts.’ In: R.W.G. Carter and C.D. Woodroffe (eds) Coastal Evolution. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 373–424.
Francis, J.R.D., 1973. ‘Experiments on the motion of solitary grains along the bed of a water stream.’ Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society, London Series A, 332, 443–471.
French, J.R., Clifford, N.J. and Spencer, T., 1993. ‘High frequency flow and suspended sediment measurements in a tidal wetland channel.’ In: N.J. Clifford, J.R. French and J. Hardisty (eds) Turbulence: perspectives on flow and sediment transport. Wiley and Sons, Chichester, 249–278.
French, J.R., Spencer, T., Murray, A.L. and Arnold, A.S., 1995. ‘Geostatistical analysis of sediment deposition in two small tidal wetlands, Norfolk, UK.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 11, 295–570.
Friedman, G.M., 1961. ‘Distinction of dune, beach, and river sands from their textural characteristics.’ Journal of Sedimentary Petrology, 31, 514–529.
Friedrichs, C.T. and Aubrey, D.G., 1988. ‘Non-linear tidal distortion in shallow well-mixed estuaries: A synthesis.’ Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 27, 521–545.
Fritz, H.M., Blount, C., Sokoloski, R., Singleton, J., Fuggle, A., McAdoo, B.G., Moore, A., Grass, C. and Tate, B., 2007. ‘Hurricane Katrina storm surge distribution and field observations on the Mississippi Barrier Islands.’ Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 74, 12–20.
Frouin, M., Sebag, D., Laignel, B., Ogier, S., Verrecchia, E.P. and Durand, A., 2006. ‘Tidal rhythmites of the Marais Vernier Seine estuary, France and their implications for relative sea-level.’ Marine Geology, 235, 165–175.
Fu, L.L., Vazquez, J. and Parke, M.E., 1987. ‘Seasonal variability of the Gulf Stream from satellite altimetry.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 92, 749–754.
Galloway, W.E., 1975. ‘Process framework for describing the morphologic and stratigraphic evolution of deltaic depositional systems.’ In: M.L. Broussard (ed) Deltas, Models for Exploration. Houston Geological Society, Houston, 87–98.
Galvin, C.J., 1968. ‘Breaker type classification on three laboratory beaches.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 73, 3651–3659.
Garel, E., Pinto, L., Santos, A. and Ferreira, Ó., 2009. ‘Tidal and river discharge forcing upon water and sediment circulation at a rock-bound estuary (Guadiana estuary, Portugal).’ Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 84, 269–281.
Gehrels, R., 2010. ‘Sea-level changes since the Last Glacial Maximum: an appraisal of the IPCC Fourth Assessment Report.’ Journal of Quaternary Science, 25, 26–38.
George, D.A. and Hill, P.S., 2008. ‘Wave climate, sediment supply and the depth of the sand–mud transition: A global survey.’ Marine Geology, 254, 121–128.
Glavovic, B.C., 2008. ‘Sustainable coastal communities in the age of coastal storms: Reconceptualising coastal planning as ‘new’ naval architecture.’ Journal of Coastal Conservation, 12, 125–134.
Gómez-Pujola, L., Orfila, A., Canellasa, B., Alvarez-Ellacuria, A., Méndez, F.J., Medina, R. and Tintoré, J., 2007. ‘Morphodynamic classification of sandy beaches in low energetic marine environment.’ Marine Geology, 242, 235–246.
Goodbred Jr., S.L. and Kuehl, S.A., 2000. ‘The significance of large sediment supply, active tectonism, and eustasy on margin sequence development: Late Quaternary stratigraphy and evolution of the Ganges-Brahmaputra delta.’ Sedimentary Geology, 133, 227–248.
Gornitz, V., 1993. ‘Mean sea level changes in the recent past.’ In: R.A. Warrick, E.M. Barrow and T.M.L. Wigley (eds) Climate and Sea Level Change: Observations, Projections and Implications. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 25–44.
Gornitz, V., 1995. ‘Sea level rise: A review of recent past and near-future trends.’ Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 20, 7–20.
Goudie, A., 1990. Geomorphological Techniques (2nd edn). Unwin Hyman, London.
Goudie, A.S., 2006. ‘The Schmidt Hammer in geomorphological research.’ Progress in Physical Geography, 30, 703–718.
Greenwood, R.O. and Orford, J.D., 2008. ‘Temporal patterns and processes of retreat of drumlin coastal cliffs – Strangford Lough, Northern Ireland.’ Geomorphology, 94, 153–169.
Griggs, G.B. and Trenhaile, A.S., 1994. ‘Coastal cliffs and platforms.’ In: R.W.G. Carter and C.D. Woodroffe (eds) Coastal Evolution. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 425–450.
Guilcher, A., 1988. Coral Reef Geomorphology. Wiley and Sons, Chichester.
Guza, R.T. and Inman, D., 1975. ‘Edge waves and beach cusps.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 80, 2997–3012.
Guza, R.T. and Thornton, E.B., 1985. ‘Observations of surf beat.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 90, 3161–3172.
Hallermeier, R.J., 1981. ‘A profile zonation for seasonal sand beaches from wave climate.’ Coastal Engineering, 4, 253–277.
Hallock, P., 2005. ‘Global change and modern coral reefs: New opportunities to understand shallow-water carbonate depositional systems.’ Sedimentary Geology, 175, 19–33.
Hansom, J.D., 1988. Coasts. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.
Hansom, J.D., Barltrop, N.D.P. and Hall, A.M., 2008. ‘Modelling the processes of cliff-top erosion and deposition under extreme storm waves.’ Marine Geology, 253, 36–50.
Hansom, J.D. and Hall, A.M., 2009. ‘Magnitude and frequency of extra-tropical North Atlantic cyclones: A chronology from cliff-top storm deposits.’ Quaternary International, 195, 42–52.
Hanson, J.L., Tracy, B.A., Tolman, H.L. and Scott, R.D., 2009. ‘Pacific hindcast performance of three numerical wave models.’ Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 26, 1614–1633.
Hanson, S., Nicholls, R., Ranger, N., Hallegatte, S., Corfee-Morlot, J., Herweijer, C. and Chateau, J., 2011. ‘A global ranking of port cities with high exposure to climate extremes.’ Climatic Change, 104, 89–111.
Harris, P.T., Hughes, M.G., Baker, E.K., Dalrymple, R.W. and Keene, J.B., 2004. ‘Sediment transport in distributary channels and its export to the pro-deltaic environment in a tidally-dominated delta: Fly River, Papua New Guinea.’ Continental Shelf Research, 24, 2431–2454.
Haslett, S.K., 2000. Coastal Systems. Routledge, London.
Hesp, P.A., Davidson-Arnott, R., Walker, I.J. and Ollerhead, J., 2005. ‘Flow dynamics over a foredune at Prince Edward Island, Canada.’ Geomorphology, 65, 71–84.
Hasselmann, K., Ross, D.B., Muller, P. and Sell, W., 1976. ‘A parametric wave prediction model.’ Journal of Physical Oceanography, 6, 200–228.
Hastenrath, S., 2006. ‘Circulation and teleconnection mechanisms of Northeast Brazil droughts.’ Progress in Oceanography, 70 (2–4), 407–415.
Hayes, M.O. and Boothroyd, J.C., 1969. ‘Storms as modifying agents in the coastal environment.’ In: M.O. Hayes (ed) Coastal Environments: NE Massachusetts. Department of Geology, University of Massachusetts, Amherst, 290–315.
Hepner, T.L. and Davis, R.A., Jr., 2004. ‘Effect of El Niño (1997–98) on beaches of the peninsular Gulf Coast of Florida.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 20, 776–791.
Hesp, P., 1999. ‘The beach, backshore and beyond.’ In: A.D. Short (ed) Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Dynamics. Wiley and Sons, Chichester, 145–169.
Hesp, P.A. and Short, A.D., 1999. ‘Barrier morphodynamics.’ In: A.D. Short (ed) Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics. Wiley and Sons, Chichester, 307–333.
Hijma, M.P. and Cohen, K.M., 2010. ‘Timing and magnitude of the sea-level jump preluding the 8200 yr event.’ Geology, 38, 275–278.
Hill, P.R., Barnes, P.W., Héquette, A. and Ruz, M.-H., 1994. ‘Arctic coastal plain shorelines.’ In: R.W.G. Carter and C.D. Woodroffe (eds) Coastal Evolution. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 341–372.
Holman, R.A. and Bowen, A.J., 1982. ‘Bars, bumps, and holes: Models for the generation of complex beach topography.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 87, 457–468.
Holman, R.A., 1983. ‘Edge wave sand the configuration of the shoreline.’ In: P.D. Komar (ed) CRC Handbook of Coastal Processes and Erosion. CRC Press, Boca Raton, 21–33.
Hopley, D., 1994. ‘Continental shelf reef systems.’ In: R.W.G. Carter and C.D. Woodroffe (eds) Coastal Evolution. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 303–340.
Horikawa, K., Hotta, S., Kubota, S. and Katori, S., 1983. ‘Field measurements of blown sand transport rate by trench trap.’ Coastal Engineering Japan, 26, 100–120.
Houser, C. and Hamilton, S., 2009. ‘Sensitivity of post-hurricane beach and dune recovery to event frequency.’ Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 34, 613–628.
Houston, J.A., Edmundson, S.E. and Rooney, P.J., 2001. Coastal Dune Management: Shared Experience of European Conservation Practice. Liverpool University Press, Liverpool.
Hsu, S.A., 1971. ‘Wind stress criteria in eolian sand transport.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 76, 8684–8686.
Hsu, S.A., 1977. ‘Boundary layer meteorological research in the coastal zone.’ In: H.J. Walker (ed) Geoscience and Man. School of Geoscience, Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge, LA, 18, 99–111.
Hsu, K.J., 2004. Physics of Sedimentology: textbook and reference. Springer, Berlin.
Hsu, J.R.C., Silvester, R. and Xia, Y.M., 1987. ‘New characteristics of equilibrium shaped bays.’ Proceedings 8th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, 140–144.
Hughes, M.G. and Cowell, P.J., 1987. ‘Adjustment of reflective beaches to waves.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 3, 153–167.
Hughes, M.G. and Turner, I., 1999. ‘The beachface.’ In: A.D. Short (ed) Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics. Wiley and Sons, Chichester, 119–144.
Hughes, M.G., Harris, P.T. and Hubble, T.C.T., 1998. ‘Dynamics of the turbidity maximum zone in a micro-tidal estuary: Hawkesbury River, Australia.’ Sedimentology, 45, 397–410.
Hughes, M.G., Masselink, G. and Brander, R.W., 1997. ‘Flow velocity and sediment transport in the swash zone of a steep beach.’ Marine Geology, 138, 91–103.
Huntsman, L., 2001. Sand in Our Souls: The beach in Australian history and culture. Melbourne University Press, Melbourne, Australia.
Hutchinson, J.N., 1973. ‘The response of London Clay cliffs to differing rates of toe erosion.’ Geologia Applicata e Idrogeologia, 8, 221–239.
Inman, D.L. and Brush, B.M., 1973. ‘The coastal challenge.’ Science, 181, 20–32.
Inman, D.L. and Nordstrom, K.F., 1971. ‘On the tectonic and morphologic classification of coasts.’ Journal of Geology, 79, 1–21.
Isdale, P.J., Stewart, B.J., Tickle, K.S. and Lough, J.M., 1998. ‘Palaeohydrological variation in a tropical river catchment: a reconstruction using fluorescent bands in corals of the Great Barrier Reef, Australia.’ The Holocene, 8, 1–8.
Isla, F.I., 2008. ‘ENSO-dominated estuaries of Buenos Aires: The interannual transfer of water from Western to Eastern South America.’ Global and Planetary Change, 64, 69–75.
Jennings, J.N., 1967. ‘Cliff-top dunes.’ Australian Geographical Studies, 5, 40–49.
Johnson, J.W., 1919. Shore Processes and Shoreline Development. Wiley, New York. [facsimile edition: Hafner, New York (1965).]
Jones, A.L. and Phillips, M., 2010. Disappearing Destinations – Climate change and future challenges for coastal tourism. CABI Publications, London.
Jones, B.M., Arp, C.D., Jorgenson, M.T., Hinkel, K.M., Schmutz, J.A. and Flint, P.L., 2009. ‘Increase in the rate and uniformity of coastline erosion in Arctic Alaska.’ Geophysical Research Letters, 36, L03503, doi:10.1029/2008GL036205.
Jonkman, S.N., Maaskant, B., Boyd, E. and Levitan, M.L., 2009. ‘Loss of life caused by the flooding of New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina: analysis of the relationship between flood characteristics and mortality.’ Risk Analysis, 29, 676–698.
Kadib, A.A., 1965. ‘A function for sand movement by wind.’ University of California Hydraulics Engineering Laboratory Report HEL, 2–8, Berkeley.
Kaiser, M.F.M. and Frihy, O.E., 2009. ‘Validity of the equilibrium beach profi les: Nile Delta Coastal Zone, Egypt.’ Geomorphology, 107, 25–31.
Kawamura, R., 1951. ‘Study of sand movement by wind.’ University of California Hydraulics Engineering Laboratory Report HEL, 2–8, Berkeley.
Kelletat, D.H., 1995. ‘Atlas of Coastal Geomorphology and Zonality.’ Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 13, 286pp.
Kench, P.S. and Cowell, P., 2000. ‘The morphological response of atoll islands to sea-level rise. Part 2: Application of the modifi ed Shoreface Translation Model.’ Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 34, 645–656.
Kench, P.S., McLean, R.F., Brander, R.W., Nichol, S.L., Smithers, S.G., Ford, M.R., Parnell, K.E. and Aslam, M., 2006. ‘Geological effects of tsunami on mid-ocean atoll islands: The Maldives before and after the Sumatran tsunami.’ Geology, 34, 177–180.
Kench, P.S., McLean, R.F. and Nichol, S.L., 2005. ‘New model of reef-island evolution: Maldives, Indian Ocean.’ Geology, 33, 145–148.
Khalifa, M.A., El Ganainy, M.A. and Nasr, R.I., 2009. ‘Statistical and uncertainty analysis of longshore sediment transport evaluations for the Egyptian northern coast: a case study application.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 25, 1002–1014.
King, C.A.M., 1972. Beaches and Coasts. Edward Arnold, London.
King, D.M., Cooper, N.J., Morfett, J.C. and Pope, D.J., 2000. ‘Application of offshore breakwaters to the UK: A case study at Elmer Beach.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 16, 172–187.
Kinsey, D.W., 1985. ‘Metabolism, calcification and carbon production: 1. Systems level studies.’ Proceedings 5th International Coral Reef Symposium, 505–526.
Kinsman, B., 1984. Wind Waves (2nd edn). Dover Publications, New York.
Kirby, R., 1988. ‘High concentration suspension (fluid mud) layers in estuaries.’ In: J. Dronkers and W. van Leussen (eds) Physical Processes in Estuaries. Springer-Verlag, 463–487.
Klein, R.J.T. and Nicholls, R.J., 1999. ‘Assessment of coastal vulnerability to climate change.’ Ambio, 28, 182–187.
Kleinhans, M.G. and Grasmeijer, B.T., 2006. ‘Bed load transport on the shoreface by currents and waves.’ Coastal Engineering, 53, 983–996.
Knight, J., 2005. ‘Controls on the formation of coastal ventifacts.’ Geomorphology, 64, 243–254.
Knight, J. and Burningham, H., 2001. ‘Formation of bedrock-cut ventifacts and late Holocene coastal zone evolution, County Donegal, Ireland.’ Journal of Geology, 109, 647–660.
Knight, J. and Burningham, H., 2011. ‘Boulder dynamics on an Atlantic-facing rock coastline, northwest Ireland.’ Marine Geology, 283, 56–65.
Knight, J., Burningham, H. and Barrett-Mold, C., 2009. ‘The geomorphology and controls on development of a boulder-strewn rock platform, NW Ireland.’ Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, 56, 1646–1650.
Knight, J., Orford, J.D., Wilson, P. and Braley, S.M., 2002. ‘Assessment of temporal changes in coastal sand dune environments using the log-hyperbolic grain size method.’ Sedimentology, 49, 1229–1252.
Komar, P.D., 1976. Beach Processes and Sedimentation. Prentice-Hall, New Jersey.
Komar, P.D., 1998. Beach Processes and Sedimentation (2nd edn). Prentice Hall, New Jersey.
Komar, P.D. and Inman, D.I., 1970. ‘Longshore sand transport on beaches.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 75, 5514–5527.
Kostaschuk, R., Best, J., Villard, P., Peakall, J. and Franklin, M., 2005. ‘Measuring flow velocity and sediment transport with an acoustic Doppler current profiler.’ Geomorphology, 68, 25–37.
Kubicki, A., 2008. ‘Large and very large subaqueous dunes on the continental shelf off southern Vietnam, South China Sea.’ Geo-Marine Letters, 28, 229–238.
Kuenen, P.H., 1948. ‘The formation of beach cusps.’ Journal of Geology, 56, 34–40.
Kuhnle, R.A. and Wren, D.G., 2009. ‘Size of suspended sediment over dunes.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 114, F02020, doi:10.1029/2008JF001200.
Kvale, E.P., 2006. ‘The origin of neap-spring tidal cycles.’ Marine Geology, 235, 5–18.
Kvale, E.P., Cutright, J., Bilodeau, D., Archer, A., Johnson, H.R. and Pickett, B., 1995. ‘Analysis of modern tides and implications for ancient tidalites.’ Continental Shelf Research, 15, 1921–1943.
Ladd, H.S., Tracey, J.I. and Gross, M.G., 1967. ‘Drilling on Midway Atoll, Hawaii.’ Science, 156, 1088–1094.
Lamb, H.H., 1982. Climate, History and the Modern World. Methuen, London.
Lambeck, K., 1993. ‘Glacial rebound and sea-level change: An example of a relationship between mantle and surface processes.’ Tectonophysics, 223, 15–37.
Lambeck, K. and Chappell, J., 2001. ‘Sea level change through the Last Glacial Cycle.’ Science, 292, 679–686.
Lanagan, D., 2002. ‘Surfing in the third millennium: commodifying the visual argot.’ The Australian Journal of Anthropology, 13, 283–291.
Lantuit, H. and Pollard, W.H., 2008. ‘Fifty years of coastal erosion and retrogressive thaw slump activity on Herschel Island, southern Beaufort Sea, Yukon Territory, Canada.’ Geomorphology, 95, 84–102.
Lane, A., 2004. ‘Bathymetric evolution of the Mersey Estuary, UK, 1906–1997: causes and effects.’ Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 59, 249–263.
Larson, M. and Sunamura, T., 1993. ‘Laboratory experiment on flow characteristics at a beach step.’ Journal of Sedimentary Petrology, 63, 495–500.
Lawson, N.V. and Abernathy, C.L., 1975. ‘Long-term wave statistics off Botany Bay.’ Proceedings 2nd Australian Conference on Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 167–176.
Leeder, M., 1999. Sedimentology and Sedimentary Basins: From Turbulence to Tectonics. Blackwell Scientific Publications, Oxford.
Leopold, L.B., 1969. ‘Landscape esthetics.’ Natural History, 78, 36–45.
Lettau, K. and Lettau, H., 1977. ‘Experimental and micrometeorological field studies of dune migration.’ In: K. Lettau and H. Lettau (eds) Exploring the World's Driest Climate. University of Wisconsin-Madison, IES Report 101, 110–147.
Levin N., 2011. ‘Climate-driven changes in tropical cyclone intensity shape dune activity on Earth's largest sand island.’ Geomorphology, 125, 239–2522.
Lewis, D.W. and McConchie, D., 1994. Analytical Sedimentology. Chapman & Hall, New York.
Li, M. and Zhong, L., 2009. ‘Flood-ebb and spring-neap variations of mixing, stratification and circulation in Chesapeake Bay.’ Continental Shelf Research, 29, 4–14.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and Stewart, R.W., 1962. ‘Radiation stresses and mass transport in gravity waves with applications to surf beat.’ Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 13, 481–504.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and Stewart, R.W., 1964. ‘Radiation stresses in water waves: A physical discussion with applications.’ Deep-Sea Research, 11, 529–562.
Lotfy, M.F. and Frihy, O.E., 1993. ‘Sediment balance in the nearshore zone of the Nile delta coast, Egypt.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 9, 654–662.
Lüthi, D., Le Floch, M., Bereiter, B., Blunier, T., Barnola, J.-M., Siegenthaler, U., Raynaud, D., Jouzel, J., Fischer, H., Kawamura, K. and Stocker, T.F., 2008. ‘High-resolution carbon dioxide concentration record 650,000–800,000 years before present.’ Nature, 453, 379–382.
Lynch, K., Jackson, D.W.T. and Cooper, J.A.G., 2010. ‘Coastal foredune topography as a control on secondary airflow regimes under offshore winds.’ Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 35, 344–353.
Macintyre, I.G., 1988. ‘Modern coral reefs of the western Atlantic: New geological perspective.’ American Association of Petroleum Geologists' Bulletin, 72, 1360–1369.
MacMahan, J.H., Thornton, E.B. and Reniers, A.J.H.M., 2006. ‘Rip current review.’ Coastal Engineering, 53, 191–208.
Magenheimer, J.F., Moore, T.R., Chmura, G.L. and Daoust, R.J., 1996. ‘Methane and carbon dioxide flux from a macrotidal salt marsh, Bay of Fundy, New Brunswick.’ Estuaries, 19, 139–145.
Mandelbrot, B., 1967. ‘How long is the coast of Britain? Statistical self-similarity and fractional dimension.’ Science, 156, 636–638.
Masetti, R., Fagherazzi, S. and Montanari, A., 2008. ‘Application of a barrier island translation model to the millennial-scale evolution of Sand Key, Florida.’ Continental Shelf Research, 28, 1116–1126.
Masselink, G. and Anthony, E., 2001. ‘Location and size of intertidal bars on macrotidal ridge and runnel beaches.’ Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 26, 759–774.
Masselink, G. and Pattiaratchi, C.B., 1998. ‘The effects of sea breeze on beach morphology, surf zone hydrodynamics and sediment resuspension.’ Marine Geology, 146, 115–135.
Masselink, G. and Short, A.D., 1993. ‘The effect of tide range on beach morphodynamics and morphology: A conceptual beach model.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 9, 785–800.
Masselink, G. and Turner, I., 1999. ‘The effect of tides on beach morphodynamics.’ In: A.D. Short (ed) Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics. Wiley and Sons, Chichester, 204–229.
Mateo, Z.R.P. and Siringan, F.P., 2007. ‘Tectonic control of high-frequency Holocene delta switching and fluvial migration in Lingayen Gulf bayhead, northwestern Philippines.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 23, 182–194.
Matsukura, Y. and Matsuoka, M., 1991. ‘Rates of tafoni weathering on uplifted shore platforms in Nojima-Zaki, Boso Peninsula, Japan.’ Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 16, 51–56.
Maun, M.A., 2009. The Biology of Coastal Sand Dunes. Oxford University Press, Oxford.
May, J.P. and Tanner, W.F., 1973. ‘The littoral power gradient and shoreline changes.’ In: D.R. Coates (ed) Coastal Geomorphology. New York State University Press, New York, 43–61.
McCook, L.J., Jompa, J. and Diaz-Pulido, G., 2001. ‘Competition between coral and algae on coral reefs: a review of evidence and mechanisms.’ Coral Reefs, 19, 400–417.
McFadden, L., Nicholls, R.J. and Penning-Rowsell, E., (eds) 2007. Managing Coastal Vulnerability. Elsevier, Amsterdam.
McKoy, H., Kennedy, D.M. and Kench, P.S., 2010. ‘Sand cay evolution on reef platforms, Mamanuca Islands, Fiji.’ Marine Geology, 269, 61–73.
McLean, R.F. and Woodroffe, C.D., 1994. ‘Coral atolls.’ In: R.W.G. Carter and C.D. Woodroffe (eds) Coastal Evolution. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 267–302.
McLeod, E. and Salm, R.V., 2006. Managing Mangroves for Resilience to Climate Change. IUCN, Gland, Switzerland. 64pp.
Meehl, G.A., Stocker, T.F., Collins, W.D., Friedlingstein, P., Gaye, A.T., Gregory, J.M., Kitoh, A., Knutti, R., Murphy, J.M., Noda, A., Raper, S.C.B., Watterson, I.G., Weaver, A. and Zhao, Z.-C., 2007. ‘Global Climate Projections.’ In: S. Solomon, D. Qin, M. Manning, Z. Chen, M. Marquis, K.B. Averyt, M. Tignor and H.L. Miller (eds) Climate Change 2007: The Physical Science Basis. Contribution of Working Group I to the Fourth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 747–845.
Meeker, L.D. and Mayewski, P.A., 2002. ‘A 1400-year high-resolution record of atmospheric circulation over the North Atlantic and Asia.’ The Holocene, 12, 257–266.
Mehta, A.J., 1989. ‘On estuarine cohesive sediment suspension behaviour.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 94, 14303–14314.
Meyer-Peter, E. and Muller, R., 1948. ‘Formulas for bedload transport.’ Proceedings 2nd Congress of International Association of Hydraulic Research, Stockholm, 39–64.
Milliman, J.D. and Meade, R.H., 1983. ‘World-wide delivery of river sediments to the oceans.’ Journal of Geology, 91, 1–21.
Milne, G.A. and Mitrovica, J.X., 2008. ‘Searching for eustasy in deglacial sea-level histories.’ Quaternary Science Reviews, 27, 2292–2302.
Monmonier, M., 2008. Coast Lines: How mapmakers frame the world and chart environmental change. University of Chicago Press, Chicago.
Moore, L.J., List, J.H., Williams, S.J. and Stolper, D., 2010. ‘Complexities in barrier island response to sea level rise: Insights from numerical model experiments.’ North Carolina Outer Banks. Journal of Geophysical Research, 115, F03004, doi:10.1029/2009JF001299.
Moore, R.D., Wolf, J., Souza, A.J. and Flint, S.S., 2009. ‘Morphological evolution of the Dee Estuary, Eastern Irish Sea, UK: A tidal asymmetry approach.’ Geomorphology, 103, 588–596.
Mörner, N-A., 1987. ‘Models of global sea level changes.’ In: M.J. Tooley and I. Shennan (eds) Sea Level Changes. Blackwell, Oxford, 332–355.
Morton, R.A., Clifton, H.E., Buster, N.A., Peterson, R.L. and Gelfenbaum, G., 2007. ‘Forcing of large-scale cycles of coastal change at the entrance to Willapa Bay, Washington.’ Marine Geology, 246, 24–41.
Munk, W.H. and Traylor, M.A., 1947. ‘Refraction of ocean waves: A process linking underwater topography to beach erosion.’ Journal of Geology, 55, 1–26.
Nandasena, N.A.K., Paris, R. and Tanaka, N., 2011. ‘Reassessment of hydrodynamic equations: Minimum flow velocity to initiate boulder transport by high energy events (storms, tsunamis).’ Marine Geology, 281, 70–84.
Naylor, L.A. and Stephenson, W.J., 2010. ‘On the role of discontinuities in mediating shore platform erosion.’ Geomorphology, 114, 89–100.
Naylor, L.A., Stephenson, W.J. and Trenhaile, A.S., 2010. ‘Rock coast geomorphology: Recent advances and future research directions.’ Geomorphology, 114, 3–11.
Nelson, R.C., 1994. ‘Depth limited design wave heights in very flat regions.’ Coastal Engineering, 23, 43–59.
Nemec, W., 1990. ‘Aspects of sediment movement on steep delta slopes.’ In: A. Colella and D.B. Prior (eds) Coarse-grained Deltas. IAS Special Publication no 10, Blackwell Science, Oxford, 29–73.
Neuman, A.C. and Macintyre, I.G., 1985. ‘Reef response to sea level rise: Keep-up, catch-up or give-up.’ Proceedings 5th International Coral Reef Symposium, 105–110.
Nicholls, R.J., Wong, P.P., Burkett, V.R., Codignotto, J.O., Hay, J.E., McLean, R.F., Ragoonaden, S. and Woodroffe, C.D., 2007. ‘Coastal systems and low-lying areas.’ In: M.L. Parry, O.F. Canziani, J.P. Palutikof, P.J. van der Linden and C.E. Hanson (eds) Climate Change 2007: Impacts, Adaptation and Vulnerability. Contribution of Working Group II to the Fourth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, UK, 315–356.
Nickling, W.G., 1978. ‘Eolian sediment transport during dust storms: Slims River valley, Yukon Territory.’ Canadian Journal of Earth Sciences, 15, 1069–1084.
Niedoroda, A.W. and Swift, D.J.P., 1991. ‘Shoreface processes.’ In: J.B. Herbich (ed) Handbook of Coastal and Ocean Engineering, Volume 2. Gulf Publishing, Houston, 736–770.
Nielsen, P., 1992. Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport. World Scientific, Singapore.
Nordstrom, K.F., 1980. ‘Cyclic and seasonal beach response: A comparison of oceanside and bayside beaches.’ Physical Geography, 1, 177–196.
Nordstrom, K.F., 1990. ‘The concept of intrinsic value and depositional coastal landforms.’ Geographical Review, 80, 68–81.
Nordstrom, K.F., 1994. ‘Developed coasts.’ In: R.W.G. Carter and C.D. Woodroffe (eds) Coastal Evolution. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 477–509.
Nordstrom, K.F., Psuty, N. and Carter, R.W.G. (eds), 1990. Coastal Dunes: Form and Process. Wiley, London.
Nott, J., 2003. ‘Waves, coastal boulder deposits and the importance of the pre-transport setting.’ Earth and Planetary Science Letters, 210, 269–276.
Open University, 1994. Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes. Pergamon Press, Oxford.
Open University, 1998. Ocean Circulation. Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford.
Open University, 2000. Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes. Butterworth-Heineman, Oxford.
Orford, J.D., Carter, R.W.G. and Jennings, S.C., 1991. ‘Coarse clastic barrier environments: Evolution and implications for Quaternary sea level interpretation.’ Quaternary International, 9, 87–104.
Orford, J.D., Carter, R.W.G. and Jennings, S.C., 1996. ‘Control domains and morphological phases in gravel-dominated coastal barriers of Nova Scotia.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 12, 589–604.
Orford, J.D., Wilson, P., Wintle, A.G., Knight, J. and Braley, S., 2000. ‘Holocene coastal dune initiation in Northumberland and Norfolk, eastern UK: climate and sea-level changes as possible forcing agents for dune initiation.’ In: I. Shennan and J. Andrews (eds) Holocene land-ocean interaction and environmental change around the North Sea. Geological Society Special Publication, 166, 197–217.
Patsch, K. and Griggs, G., 2008. ‘A sand budget for the Santa Barbara Littoral Cell, California.’ Marine Geology, 252, 50–61.
Peterson, C.D., Stock, E., Hart, R., Percy, D., Hostetler, S.W. and Knott, J.R., 2010. ‘Holocene coastal dune fields used as indicators of net littoral transport: west coast, USA.’ Geomorphology, 116, 115–134.
Pethick, J., 1984. An Introduction to Coastal Geomorphology. Edward Arnold, London.
Pettijohn, F.J., Potter, P.E. and Siever, R., 1987. Sand and Sandstone. Springer-Verlag, New York.
Pilkey, O.H., Cooper, J.A.G. and Lewis, D.A., 2009. ‘Global distribution and geomorphology of fetch-limited barrier islands.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 25, 819–837.
Pinet, P.R., 2000. Invitation to Oceanography (2nd edn). Jones and Bartlett Publishers, Sudbury.
Pirazzoli, P.A., 1989. ‘Recent sea-level changes in the North Atlantic.’ In: D.B. Scott, P.A. Pirazzoli and C.A. Honig (eds) Late Quaternary Sea-level correlation and Applications. Kluwer, Dordrecht, NATO ASI Series C, vol. 256, 153–167.
Pirazzoli, P.A., 1996. Sea-Level Changes: The Last 20,000 Years. Wiley and Sons, Chichester.
Pond, S. and Pickard, G.L., 1983. Introductory Dynamical Oceanography (2nd edn). Pergamon, Oxford.
Pond, S. and Pickard, G.L., 1995. Introductory Dynamical Oceanography (2nd revised edn). Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford.
Pope, J. and Dean, J.L., 1986. ‘Development of design criteria for segmented breakwaters.’ Proceedings 20th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, 2144–2158.
Porter-Smith, R., Harris, P.T., Andersen, O.B., Coleman, R., Greenslade, D. and Jenkins, C.J., 2004. ‘Classification of the Australian continental shelf based on predicted sediment threshold exceedance from tidal currents and swell waves.’ Marine Geology, 211, 1–20.
Posamentier, H.W. and Vail, P.R., 1988. ‘Eustatic controls on clastic deposition II — Sequence and systems tract models.’ In: C.K. Wilgus, B.S. Hastings, C.G.StC. Kendall, H.W. Posamentier, C.A. Ross and J.C. Van Wagoner (eds) Sea-Level Changes: An Integrated Approach. SEPM Special Publication 42, 125–154.
Postma, G., 1990. ‘Depositional architecture and facies of river and fan deltas: A synthesis.’ In: A. Colella and D.B. Prior (eds) Coarse-grained Deltas. IAS Special Publication no 10, Blackwell Science, Oxford, 13–28.
Potter, I.C., Chuwen, B.M., Hoeksema, S.D. and Elliott, M., 2010. ‘The concept of an estuary: A definition that incorporates systems which can become closed to the ocean and hypersaline.’ Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 87, 497–500.
Powers, M.C., 1953. ‘A new roundness scale for sedimentary particles.’ Journal of Sedimentary Petrology, 23, 117–119.
Prandle, D., 2009. Estuaries: Dynamics, Mixing, Sedimentation and Morphology. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.
Preston-Whyte, R., 2001. ‘Constructed leisure spaces: the seaside at Durban.’ Annals of Tourism Research. 28, 581–596.
Psuty, N.P., 1992. ‘Spatial variation in coastal foredune development.’ In: R.W.G. Carter, T.G.F. Curtis and M.J. Sheehy-Skeffington (eds) Coastal Dunes. Proceedings 3rd European Dune Congress, Balkema, Rotterdam, 3–13.
Pugh, D.T., 1987. Tides, Surges and Mean Sea-Level. Wiley and Sons, Chichester.
Purdy, E.G., 1974. ‘Reef configurations: Cause and effect.’ In: L.F. Laporte (ed) Reefs in Time and Space. Society of Economic Paleontologists and Mineralogists, Special Publication 18, 9–76.
Pye, K., 1994. ‘Properties of sediment particles.’ In: K. Pye (ed) Sediment Transport and Depositional Processes. Blackwell Scientific Publications, Oxford, 1–24.
Pye, K. and Blott, S.J., 2008. ‘Decadal-scale variation in dune erosion and accretion rates: An investigation of the significance of changing storm tide frequency and magnitude on the Sefton coast, UK.’ Geomorphology, 102, 652–666.
Ravera, O., 2000. ‘The Lagoon of Venice: the result of both natural factors and human influence.’ Journal of Limnology, 59, 19–30.
Reading, H.G. and Collinson, J.D., 1996. ‘Clastic coasts.’ In: H.G. Reading (ed) Sedimentary Environments: Processes, Facies and Stratigraphy. Blackwell Science, Oxford, 154–231.
Reineck, H.-E. and Singh, I.B., 1980. Depositional Sedimentary Environments: With Reference to Terrigenous Clastics. Springer-Verlag, Berlin.
Reinson, G.E., 1984. ‘Barrier island and associated strand-plain systems.’ In: R.G. Walker (ed) Facies Models (2nd edn). Geoscience Canada Reprint Series 1, Geological Association of Canada, 119–140.
Reis, A.H. and Gama, C., 2010. ‘Sand size versus beachface slope — an explanation based on the Constructal Law.’ Geomorphology, 114, 276–283.
Rignot, E., Velicogna, I., van den Broeke, M.R., Monaghan, A. and Lenaerts, J., 2011. ‘Acceleration of the contribution of the Greenland and Antarctic ice sheets to sea level rise.’ Geophysical Research Letters, 38, L05503, doi:10.1029/2011GL046583.
Robertson, W., Zhang, K., Finkl, C.W. and Whitman, D., 2008. ‘Hydrodynamic and geologic influence of event-dependent depth of closure along the South Florida Atlantic Coast.’ Marine Geology, 252, 156–165.
Robinson, L.A., 1977. ‘Marine erosive processes at the cliff foot.’ Marine Geology, 23, 257–271.
Rodrigue, L.B., Curole, G.P., Lee, D.M. and Dearmond, D.A., 2008. Operations, Maintenance, and Monitoring Report for Isles Dernieres Restoration, Phase 0, Trinity Island (TE-24) Project. ‘Coastal Protection and Restoration Authority of Louisiana, Office of Coastal Protection and Restoration, Thibodaux, Louisiana,’ 26 pp.
Rosenzweig, C., Casassa, G., Karoly, D.J., Imeson, A., Liu, C., Menzel, A., Rawlins, S., Root, T.L., Seguin, B. and Tryjanowski, P., 2007. ‘Assessment of observed changes and responses in natural and managed systems.’ In: M.L. Parry, O.F. Canziani, J.P. Palutikof, P.J. van der Linden and C.E. Hanson (eds) Climate Change 2007: Impacts, Adaptation and Vulnerability. Contribution of Working Group II to the Fourth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, UK, 79–131.
Rossi, A., Massei, N., Laignel, B., Sebag, D. and Copard, Y., 2009. ‘The response of the Mississippi River to climate fluctuations and reservoir construction as indicated by wavelet analysis of streamflow and suspended-sediment load, 1950–1975.’ Journal of Hydrology, 377, 237–244.
Roy, P.S., Cowell, P.J., Ferland, M.A. and Thom, B.G., 1994. ‘Wave-dominated coasts.’ In: R.W.G. Carter and C.D. Woodroffe (eds) Coastal Evolution. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 121–186.
Roy, P.S., Thom, B.G. and Wright, L.D., 1980. ‘Holocene sequences on an embayed high-energy coast: An evolutionary model.’ Sedimentary Geology, 26, 1–19.
Ruddiman, W.F., 2006. ‘Orbital changes and climate.’ Quaternary Science Reviews, 25, 3092–3112.
Ruessink, B.G., Pape, L. and Turner, I.L., 2009. ‘Daily to interannual cross-shore sandbar migration: observations from a multiple sandbar system.’ Continental Shelf Research, 29, 1663–1677.
Ruiz de Alegria-Arzaburu, A. and Masselink, G., 2010. ‘Storm response and beach rotation on a gravel beach, Slapton Sands, UK.’ Marine Geology, 278, 77–99.
Saenger, P. and Siddiqi, N.A., 1993. ‘Land from the sea: the mangrove afforestation program of Bangladesh.’ Ocean & Coastal Management, 20, 23–39.
Saito, Y., Yang, Z. and Hori, K., 2001. ‘The Huanghe (Yellow River) and Changjiang (Yangtze River) deltas: a review on their characteristics, evolution and sediment discharge during the Holocene.’ Geomorphology, 41, 219–231.
Salisbury, R.D., 1892. ‘Overwash plains and valley trains.’ Geological Survey of New Jersey, Annual Report of the State Geologist, 7, 96–114.
Sallenger, A.H. and Holman, R.T., 1985. ‘Wave energy saturation on a natural beach with variable slope.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 90, 11939–11944.
Sanderson, P.G. and Eliot, I., 1996. ‘Shoreline salients, cuspate forelands and tombolos on the coast of Western Australia.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 12, 761–773.
Saye, S.E., Pye, K. and Clemmensen, L.B., 2006. ‘Development of a cliff-top dune indicated by particle size and geochemical characteristics: Rubjerg Knude, Denmark.’ Sedimentology, 53, 1–21.
Saye, S.E., van der Wal, D., Pye, K. and Blott, S.J., 2005. ‘Beach-dune morphological relationships and erosion/accretion: An investigation at five sites in England and Wales using LIDAR data.’ Geomorphology, 72, 128–155.
Scheffers, A., Scheffers, S., Kelletat, D. and Browne, T., 2009. ‘Wave-emplaced coarse debris and megaclasts in Ireland and Scotland: boulder transport in a high-energy littoral environment.’ Journal of Geology, 117, 553–573.
Schoonees, J.S., Theron, A.K. and Bevis, D., 2006. ‘Shoreline accretion and sand transport at groynes inside the Port of Richard Bay.’ Coastal Engineering, 53, 1045–1058.
Schwing, F.B., Murphree, T., deWitt, L. and Green, P.M., 2002. ‘The evolution of oceanic and atmospheric anomalies in the northeast Pacific during the El Nino and La Nina events of 1995–2001.’ Progress in Oceanography, 54, 459–491.
Scott, G.A.J. and Rotondo, G.M., 1983. ‘A model to explain the differences between Pacific plate island atoll types.’ Coral Reefs, 1, 139–150.
Sella, G.F., Stein, S., Dixon, T.H., Craymer, M., James, T.S., Mazzotti, S. and Dokka, R.K., 2007. ‘Observation of glacial isostatic adjustment in “stable” North America with GPS.’ Geophysical Research Letters, 34, L02306, doi:10.1029/2006GL027081.
Shepard, F.P., 1963. Submarine Geology (2nd edn). Harper & Row, New York.
Sheppard, C.R.C., Davy, S.K. and Pilling, G.S., 2009. The Biology of Coral Reefs. Oxford University Press, Oxford.
Sherman, D.J. and Bauer, B.O., 1993. ‘Dynamics of beach-dune systems.’ Progress in Physical Geography, 17, 413–447.
Sherman, D.J., Jackson, D.W.T., Namikas, S.L. and Wang, J., 1998. ‘Wind-blown sand on beaches: An evaluation of models.’ Geomorphology, 22, 113–133.
Shields, A., 1936. Anwendung der Ähnlichkeits-Mechanik und der Turbulenz-forschung auf die Geschiebebewegung. Preussische Versuchsanstalt für Wasserbau und Schiffbau, 26.
Short, A.D., 1985. ‘Rip current type, spacing and persistence, Narrabeen Beach, Australia.’ Marine Geology, 65, 47–71.
Short, A.D. (ed), 1999. Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics, Wiley and Sons, Chichester.
Short, A.D., 2006. ‘Australian beach systems — nature and distribution.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 22, 11–27.
Short, A.D., 2010. ‘Sediment transport around Australia – sources, mechanisms, rates, and barrier forms.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 26, 395–402.
Short, A.D. and Hesp, P.A., 1982. ‘Wave, beach and dune interactions in southeastern Australia.’ Marine Geology, 48, 259–284.
Short, A.D. and Trembanis, A.C., 2004. ‘Decadal scale patterns in beach oscillation and rotation Narrabeen Beach, Australia – time series, PCA and wavelet analysis.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 20, 523–532.
Sleath, J.F.A., 1984. Sea Bed Mechanics. Wiley and Sons, New York.
Smith, D.E., Fretwell, P.T., Cullingford, R.A. and Firth, C.R., 2006. ‘Towards improved empirical isobase models of Holocene land uplift for mainland Scotland, UK.’ Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London, Series A, 364, 949–972.
Smith, D.E., Shi, S., Cullingford, R.A., Dawson, A.G., Dawson, S., Firth, C.R., Foster, I.D.L., Fretwell, P.T., Haggart, B.A., Holloway, L.K. and Long, D., 2004. ‘The Holocene Storegga Slide tsunami in the United Kingdom.’ Quaternary Science Reviews, 23, 2291–2321.
Smith, L.D., Gilmour, J.P. and Heyward, A.J., 2008. ‘Resiliance of coral communities on an isolated system of reefs following catastrophic mass-bleaching.’ Coral Reefs, 27, 197–205.
Soulsby, R.L., 1983. ‘The bottom boundary layer of shelf seas.’ In: B. Johns (ed) Physical Oceanography of Coastal and Shelf Seas. Elsevier, Amsterdam, 189–266.
Soulsby, R.L., 1997. Dynamics of Marine Sands: A Manual for Practical Applications. Thomas Telford, London.
Southard, J.B. and Boguchwal, L.A., 1990. ‘Bed configurations in steady unidirectional water flows. Part 2: Synthesis of flume data.’ Journal of Sedimentary Petrology, 60, 658–679.
Spencer, T., 1994. ‘Tropical coral islands – an uncertain future.’ In: N. Roberts (ed) The Changing Global Environment. Blackwell, Oxford, 190–209.
Spencer, T. and Viles, H.A., 2002. ‘Bioconstruction, bioerosion and disturbance on coral reefs and rocky carbonate coasts.’ Geomorphology, 48, 23–50.
Stanley, D.J. and Chen, Z., 1993. ‘Yangtze delta, eastern China: I. Geometry and subsidence of Holocene depocenter.’ Marine Geology, 112, 1–11.
Stephenson, W.J. and Kirk, R.M., 1996. ‘Measuring erosion rates using the micro-erosion meter: 20 years of data from shore platforms, Kaikoura Peninsula, South Island, New Zealand.’ Marine Geology, 131, 209–218.
Stephenson, W.J. and Kirk, R.M., 2000. ‘Development of shore platforms on Kaikoura Peninsula, South Island, New Zealand, Part II: The role of subaerial weathering.’ Geomorphology, 32, 43–56.
Stockdon, H.F., Holman, R.A., Howd, P.A. and Sallenger, A.H., 2006. ‘Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup.’ Coastal Engineering, 53, 573–588.
Stoddart, D.R., 1965. ‘The shape of atolls.’ Marine Geology, 3, 369–383.
Stone, G.W. and Donley, J.C. (eds), 1998. ‘The world deltas symposium: A tribute to James Plummer Morgan (1919–1995). Special Thematic Sectio.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 14, 695–916.
Storlazzi, C.D. and Griggs, G.B., 2000. ‘Influence of El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) events on the evolution of central California's shoreline.’ GSA Bulletin, 112, 236–249.
Sunamura, T. and Mizuno, O., 1987. ‘A study on depositional shoreline forms behind an island.’ Annual Report Institute Geosciences, University of Tsukuba, Tsukuba, No. 13, 71–73.
Sunamura, T., 1992. Geomorphology of Rocky Coasts. Wiley and Sons, New York.
Svendsen, I.A., 1984. ‘Mass flux and undertow in the surf zone.’ Coastal Engineering, 8, 347–365.
Sverdrup, H.U. and Munk, W.H., 1946. ‘Theoretical and empirical relations in forecasting breakers and surf.’ Transactions American Geophysical Union, 27, 828–836.
Switzer, A.D. and Burston, J.M., 2010. ‘Competing mechanisms for boulder deposition on the southeast Australian coast.’ Geomorphology, 114, 42–54.
Takeda, I. and Sunamura, T., 1982. ‘Formation and height of berms.’ Transactions, Japanese Geomorphological Union, 3, 145–157.
Tamura, T., Horaguchi, K., Saito, Y., Nguyen, V.L., Tateishi, M., Ta, T.K.O., Nanayama, F. and Watanabe, K., 2010. ‘Monsoon-influenced variations in morphology and sediment of a mesotidal beach on the Mekong River delta coast.’ Geomorphology, 116, 11–23.
Thom, B.G. and Hall, W., 1991. ‘Behaviour of beach profiles during accretion and erosion dominated periods.’ Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 16, 113–127.
Thornton, E.B. and Guza, R.T., 1982. ‘Energy saturation and phase speeds measured on a natural beach.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 87, 9499–9508.
Thurman, H.V. and Burton, E.A., 2001. Introductory Oceanography (9th edn). Prentice Hall, New Jersey.
Tol, R.S.J., Klein, R.J.T. and Nicholls, R.J., 2008. ‘Towards successful adaptation to sea-level rise along Europe's coasts.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 24, 432–442.
Trenhaile, A.S., 1987. The Geomorphology of Rock Coasts. Oxford University Press, Oxford.
Trenhaile, A.S., 1997. Coastal Dynamics and Landforms. Oxford University Press, Oxford.
Trenhaile, A.S., 1999. ‘The width of shore platforms in Britain, Canada and Japan.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 15, 355–364.
Trenhaile, A.S. and Mercan, D.W., 1984. ‘Frost weathering and the saturation of coastal rocks.’ Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 9, 321–331.
Tucker, M.E., 1995. Sedimentary Petrology: An Introduction to the Origin of Sedimentary Rocks. Blackwell Science, Oxford.
Turcotte, D.L., 2007. ‘Self-organized complexity in geomorphology: Observations and models.’ Geomorphology, 91, 302–310.
Turner, I., 1993. ‘Water table outcropping on macro-tidal beaches: A simulation model.’ Marine Geology, 115, 227–238.
Turner, I.L., 1995. ‘Simulating the influence of groundwater seepage on sediment transported by the sweep of the swash zone across macro-tidal beaches.’ Marine Geology, 125, 153–174.
Udo, K., Kuriyama, Y. and Jackson, D.W.T., 2008. ‘Observations of wind-blown sand under various meteorological conditions at a beach.’ Journal of Geophysical Research, 113, F04008, doi:10.1029/2007JF000936.
Uncles, R.J., Bale, A.J., Stephens, J.A., Frickers, P.E. and Harris, C., 2010. ‘Observations of floc sizes in a muddy estuary.’ Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 87, 186–196.
Uncles, R.J., Barton, M.L. and Stephens, J.A., 1994. ‘Seasonal variability of fine-sediment concentrations in the turbidity maximum region of the Tamar estuary.’ Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 38, 19–39.
Van Dijk, M., Postma, G. and Kleinhans, M.G., 2009. ‘Autocyclic behaviour of fan deltas: an analogue experimental study.’ Sedimentology, 56, 1569–1589.
van Dyke, M., 1982. An Album of Fluid Motion. The Parabolic Press, Stanford.
van Houwelingen, S., Masselink, G. and Bullard, J., 2008. ‘Dynamics of multiple intertidal bars over semidiurnal and lunar tidal cycles, North Lincolnshire, England.’ Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 33, 1473–1490.
Van Lancker, V., Bonne, W., Uriarte, A. and Collins, M. (eds), 2010. EUMARSAND: European Marine Sand and Gravel Resources. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 51, 1–226.
van Vuren, S., Kok, M. and Jorissen, R.E., 2004. ‘Coastal defense and societal activities in the coastal zone: compatible or conflicting interests.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 20, 550–561.
Viles, H. and Spencer, T., 1995. Coastal Problems. Edward Arnold, London.
Villard, P.V. and Osborne, P.D., 2002. ‘Visualisation of wave-induced suspension patterns over two-dimensional bedforms.’ Sedimentology, 49, 363–378.
Walkden, M.J.A. and Hall, J.W., 2005. ‘A predictive Mesoscale model of the erosion and profile development of soft rock shores.’ Coastal Engineering, 52, 535–563.
Wallace, J.M. and Hobbs, P.V., 2006. Atmospheric Science — an introductory survey (2nd edn). Academic Press, Amsterdam.
Wang, P., Kirby, J.H., Haber, J.D., Horwitz, M.H., Knorr, P.O. and Krock, J.R., 2006. ‘Morphological and sedimentological impacts of Hurricane Ivan and immediate poststorm beach recovery along the northwestern Florida barrier-island coasts.’ Journal of Coastal Research, 22, 1382–1402.
Ward, W.T., 2006. ‘Coastal dunes and strandplains in southeast Queensland: sequence and chronology.’ Australian Journal of Earth Sciences, 53, 363–373.
Wasson, R.J., 2003. ‘A sediment budget for the Ganga–Brahmaputra catchment.’ Current Science, 84, 1041–1047.
Webb, A.P. and Kench, P.S., 2010. ‘The dynamic response of reef islands to sea-level rise: Evidence from multi-decadal analysis of island change in the Central Pacific.’ Global and Planetary Change, 72, 234–246.
Wells, N., 1997. The Atmosphere and Ocean, a physical introduction. Wiley, Chichester.
Wemelsfelder, P.J., 1953. ‘The disaster in the Netherlands caused by the storm flood of February 1, 1953.’ Proceedings of the 4th Coastal Engineering Conference, ASCE, 256–271.
Wiegel, R.L., 1964. Oceanographical Engineering. Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs.
Wiggs, G.F.S., Baird, A.J. and Atherton, R.J., 2004. ‘The dynamics effects of moisture on the entrainment and transport of sand by wind.’ Geomorphology, 59, 13–30.
Wilson, P., 1987. ‘Soil formation on coastal beach and dune ridge sands at Magilligan Point Nature Reserve, Co. Londonderry.’ Irish Geography, 20, 43–49.
Wilson, P., Orford, J.D., Knight, J., Braley, S. and Wintle, A.G., 2001. ‘Late-Holocene (post-4000 years BP) coastal dune development in Northumberland, northeast England.’ The Holocene, 11, 215–229.
Woodroffe, C.D., 2002. Coasts: form, process and evolution. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.
Woodroffe, C.D., 2008. ‘Reef-island topography and the vulnerability of atolls to sea-level rise.’ Global and Planetary Change, 62, 77–96.
Woodroffe, C.D. and Gagan, M.K., 2000. ’Coral microatolls from the central Pacific record late Holocene El Niño.’ Geophysical Research Letters, 27, 1511–1514.
Woodroffe, C.D. and McLean, R., 1990. ‘Microatolls and recent sea level change on coral atolls.’ Nature, 344, 531–534.
Woodroffe, C.D., McLean, R.F., Smithers, S.G. and Lawson, E.M., 1999. ‘Atoll reef-island formation and response to sea-level change: West Island, Cocos (Keeling) Islands.’ Marine Geology, 160, 85–104.
Wright, L.D., 1976. ‘Morphodynamics of a wave-dominated river mouth.’ Proceedings 15th Coastal Engineering Conference, ASCE, 1721–1737.
Wright, L.D., 1977. ‘Sediment transport and deposition at river mouths: A synthesis.’ Geological Society of America Bulletin, 88, 857–868.
Wright, L.D., 1989. ‘Benthic boundary layers of estuarine and coastal environments.’ Reviews in Aquatic Sciences, 1, 75.
Wright, L.D. and Short, A.D., 1984. ‘Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis.’ Marine Geology, 56, 93–118.
Wright, L.D. and Thom, B.G., 1977. ‘Coastal depositional landforms: A morphodynamic approach.’ Progress in Physical Geography, 1, 412–459.
Wright, L.D., Coleman, J.M. and Thom, B.G., 1973. ‘Processes of channel development in a high-tide-range environment: Cambridge Gulf-Ord River delta, Western Australia.’ Journal of Geology, 81, 15–41.
Wright, L.D., Yang, Z.S., Bornhold, B.D., Keller, G.H., Prior, D.B. and Wiseman, W.J., 1986. ‘Hyperpycnal plumes and plume fronts over the Huanghe (Yellow River) delta front.’ Geo-Marine Letters, 6, 97–105.
Yasso, W.E., 1965. ‘Plan geometry of headland-bay beaches.’ Marine Geology, 73, 702–714.
Young, I.R. and Holland, G.J., 1996. Atlas of Oceans, Wind and Wave Climate. Elsevier, Oxford.
Yokoyama, Y., Lambeck, K., De Deckker, P., Johnston, P. and Fifeld, L.K., 2000. ‘Timing of the Last Glacial Maximum from observed sea-level minima.’ Nature, 406, 713–716.
Zhang, W., Wang, Y. and Lee, S.J., 2008. ‘Simultaneous PIV and PTV measurements of wind and sand particle velocities.’ Experiments in Fluids, 45, 241–256.
Zingg, A.W., 1953. ‘Wind tunnel studies of the movement of sedimentary material.’ Proceedings of the Fifth Hydraulics Conference. State University of Iowa, Studies in Engineering Bulletin, 34, 111–135.
Zingg, T.1935. Beitrag zur Schotteranalyse. Schweizerische Mineralogische und Petrographische Mitteilungen, 15, 39–140.