Chapter 9: Pruning Popular Fruit Trees
The goal, when it comes to fruit trees, is to prune them so they produce the most fruit as possible. This usually involves cutting off the lower branches in order to direct more energy, light, and air to the top of the tree. This will, in turn, enable the tree to produce more fruit and will prevent heavy fruit from weighing down and damaging the lower parts of the tree. You should learn about a specific fruit tree’s natural growth habits and shape, as well as the age of the tree, before undertaking any pruning. Remember, different species of fruit trees require different pruning methods. Only prune as much as necessary in order to create the desired shape of the tree while also allowing light and air to reach the center of the tree. If removing branches, cut just below the collar, but if pruning branches back, cut above the outward-facing bud.
Also, pay attention to the age of your tree. If your fruit tree is young, your goal is to train it and help the tree develop branches strong enough to support its crop. If the tree is a single stem, remove shoots as it grows its side branches. If your young fruit tree has branches, keep the ones that are wide angled and in a good position, and prune those that are not. Also, prune branches growing too close to your desired branches. But, do not prune a young tree more than necessary — less is best — or you will delay fruiting. Keep in mind, though, you want to wait until your tree is 2 years old before allowing it to bear fruit. Bearing fruit before then will weaken your tree, and this will delay the production of more fruit for several years. With a mature fruit tree, perform annual pruning to reduce the fruit load and stimulate new shoot growth. To do this, prune branches to keep the fruit tree’s desired size and shape, pinch off excess flowers, and rid the tree of dead or diseased wood or branches that cross or rub on each other. Pinching excess flowers will help keep the tree’s fruit production steady. Pay particular attention to each type of fruit tree’s specific pruning needs.
Peach Trees
Peach trees, fruit trees that produce heavy loads, are often considered a challenge to grow because these trees are sensitive to soil type, climate, and cold. These challenges have not prevented people living in northern climates from attempting to grow peach trees.
The peach tree originated in China and then made its way to Turkey and Persia (Iran) via trade routes, eventually ending up in Europe. From there, the French brought it to America in the 1500s. Peach trees make an attractive addition to any garden because of their beautiful, dark green leaves and pink flowers, not to mention their delectable fruit. This tree is related to the almond tree, needs pruning on a regular basis because it grows fast, and can average 6 to 10 feet high. If you do not prune on a regular basis, you could shorten the tree’s lifespan or expose it to disease, particularly a disease called leaf curl. Leaf curl is a fungus that harms the leaves of a peach tree, which, in turn, affects the amount of fruit the tree will bear. Pruning annually helps guarantee that your peach tree will bear fruit. Also, peach trees tend to become overgrown on the lower limbs so annual pruning will keep this in check.
With young peach trees, you should prune carefully so the wood that produces fruit remains near the center of the tree. The farther away from the center of the tree a branch grows, the poorer the quality of fruit and the less fruit the tree produces. For young trees, summer is a favorable time to prune in order to develop the desired tree frame. This also lessens the dormant pruning needed during its first winter when young trees are more susceptible to winter injuries and borer infestation. Pruning in the summer also allow you to encourage a spreading growth method of branches that extend outward and upward.
The best time to prune your mature peach tree, if you want to encourage more fruit bearing, is in the late winter or early spring, when small pink buds begin to form. Do not prune later than the end of February because peach trees can start to bloom in early March. Next, remove water sprouts and any branches that are not fruit bearing. This is important because on peach trees, water sprouts can get quite hardy and will prevent light from reaching the lower branches. As a result, fruit will grow higher on the tree, out of picking reach. In addition, peach trees are susceptible to disease. Pruning at this time will allow wounds to heal quicker, when growth begins.
Use large pruning shears, and prune those branches pointing upward while leaving those growing at a 90-degree angle from the trunk of the tree. With peach trees, you also want to prune in one of two methods: the modified leader or open center. The modified leader is easier to maintain because a peach tree grows with a central leader, and in this method, the central trunk is allowed to branch off to form several tops. You will need to cut back the top annually to shorten your tree and also to allow more light to hit the lower branches. Also, prune any cross branches, especially those near the trunk of the tree. Pruning off cross branches will improve airflow throughout your tree and will also allow more sunlight to reach fruit-producing branches. If any branches break off — which can happen on weaker branches producing fruit — cut them off past the breaking point, where the twig meets the branch. Aim to prune about 40 percent of the tree, but do not overdo your pruning. Although 40 percent sounds high, you will create a more attractive tree and a healthier one as well.
In the open center method, also known as the vase method, and the most popular choice for pruning peach trees, you produce a tree that has a weaker branch structure but allows for easier access to fruit. Peaches are a lightweight fruit and are considered a good choice for this type of pruning. If the open center method is your choice, you prune so the limbs form a vase effect and are not all growing out of the main trunk close to each other; otherwise, they will form a cluster of weak crotches. The whole center remains open, but you will need to thin the branches and remove older branches. This method allows for more light to reach the shady interior of the tree.
You also need to thin out the fruit from time to time. Peach trees produce large fruit and only bear fruit on 1-year-old stems. By pruning to keep the branch system open, you can yield more fruit. Fruit should be about 6 inches apart because each peach needs about 35 leaves to nourish it. Also prune any drooping stems and short stems because these tend to produce smaller peaches. A well-pruned peach tree has branches with enough spacing to allow a bird to fly through its crown.
Pruning peach trees can be labor intensive, since, as mentioned, they grow vigorously. But, if you are willing to make the effort, the payoff is a steady crop of tasty fruit.
Apple Trees
The apple tree is a favorite fruit tree because there are so many different varieties to choose from, including those you can create yourself, as apple trees take well to grafting. Apple trees originated in Europe, but you can now find them in North America, the United Kingdom, Europe, and Asia. There are 7,500 varieties worldwide, with 2,500 varieties in the United States, including the most familiar: Red Delicious, Granny Smith, Golden Delicious, Gala, Pink Lady, Fuji, and Crabapple. They prefer moist soil and need cold winters in order for the seeds to sprout, which is why you rarely find apple trees in dry or extremely hot climates. In North America, apple trees grow best in Zones 3 through 8. They also need full sun and extensive pruning, and you will need to spray or find a natural way to control the many insects and diseases that can plague the apple tree.
Apple trees, like most fruit trees, are medium-sized trees. When left to grow naturally, an apple tree can grow to about 15 to 20 feet, with some varieties reaching up to 40 feet. The trunk tends to be short, with branches extending out not far from the ground. Like most flowering fruit trees, apple trees are part of the large rose family. The tree flowers in the spring through the summer, with the fruit ripening in the fall. The apple tree’s fragrant flowers, delicious fruit, and visual attractiveness, even when bare in winter, often make this fruit tree a centerpiece in many gardens.
Because apple trees take well to grafting, they tolerate different types of pruning so you can tailor your pruning to your own specific needs and desires. When choosing your pruning method, keep two goals in mind: If your tree is young, you want to create a strong, sturdy tree able to withstand the elements and disease; and if your tree is a mature apple tree, you want to prune so it maintains its shape and can produce the best and most fruit as possible.
This gardener uses shears to prune an apple tree in March.
A young apple tree’s first few years will have a large impact on how it produces fruit later on in its life. If you are planting a young apple tree, it will either be a whip or single stem or perhaps more developed as a feathered tree — that is, already having side branches. Choosing a whip or feathered tree may depend on your finances, since the latter is more expensive. Nurseries sell most apple trees bare root. Before planting it into the ground, observe the roots closely. Tease out the roots on the outside of the root ball with a stick or a fork in order to encourage them to grow into the surrounding soil. If you cannot tease out these roots because they have grown too tightly around each other, make some vertical slits in the root ball with a knife until you can pull out some roots. You do not want the roots to fold so if your hole is not wide enough or you do not want to dig it wide enough to accommodate them, cut them back so they fit easily into the hole. Then, cover them with the soil you dug out as you proceed to plant your tree.
During the first years after planting, the tree will lay down its permanent framework of branches so you want to help it develop branches strong enough to bear fruit. If you want to yield a crop of large apples, then you will want to pinch off flower buds so less energy is drawn from the tree. This results in fewer areas in which the plant has to distribute food so you wind up with larger flowers and, thus, larger fruit.
Other fruit trees produce fruit on either limbs or spurs, which are short, stubby branches that grow in between limbs. But apple trees are unique because their fruit can grow on both limbs and spurs, depending on the variety of tree. If your apple tree produces fruit on spurs, you will need to prune some of the fruit in order to encourage the tree to produce bigger and better fruit on the remainder of the spurs. An apple tree’s spurs will produce fruit for several years, but once it has stopped producing fruit on that particular spur, you will need to cut it off so your tree can grow a replacement. You will know when to do this by the appearance of the spur — it starts looking aged.
Begin your pruning in late winter or early spring. You do not want to prune when there is new growth later in the spring or in the summer because the tree will bleed too much sap, unless you are removing suckers or water sprouts. You can also remove any branches broken by winter storms or that may have died from the cold during the spring. Other than that, you only want to prune during the apple tree’s dormant period. Bare branches also make it easier for you to see which branches need pruning and which do not.
There are three forms of pruning used when pruning an apple tree: the central leader, the open center, and the modified central leader. If you are growing your tree to have a central leader, then you want a single, dominant leader in the center of the tree, with branches growing off it that decrease in length as they move up to the top of the tree. These branches are called scaffold branches or main branches. If you chose an open center form, your tree will have a vase shape, with three or four leaders growing outward and upward from the trunk. Branches will grow off these leaders. If you choose a modified central leader, you will have a combination of the central leader and open center forms. In this pruning form, you allow a central leader to grow until the tree reaches about 7 feet. Then, you bend the leader over to a weak side branch to stop its growth. Your choice of form often depends on the natural growth of your apple tree.
Many nurseries sell apples trees as three-in-one or five-in-one types of apple varieties, the result of three or more types of apple trees grafted together. If you purchase this type of apple tree, you will want to prune your tree to have an open center, which will allow more light to reach the interior of the tree. Once you have selected three or four side branches, you will need to cut the central stem off at a point just above the highest side branch. This will allow your tree to continue to grow upward and outward from the side branches.
If you have chosen the central leader form, you will need to select the side branches you want to remain with care because it will determine the future shape of your tree, as well as the tree’s strength. Allow each side branch to have enough space to develop. Begin by leaving one branch about 2 feet from the ground, with the remaining branches about 6 inches to 18 inches apart as you move up the trunk. Try to keep your branches in a spiral arrangement. This will allow each branch to have enough room to grow, and it will also prevent each branch from being robbed of minerals and water coming up from the roots of another branch.
During the first few years of growth, your tree may look sparse, and you may feel tempted to keep branches closer together or closer to the ground. Remember, the location of these branches will never change throughout the life of the tree so if you leave too many on the tree, they will thicken and grow too close together as the tree ages.
If you have chosen a modified central leader as your form for your apple tree, make sure you still have a dominant, strong central leader. If you have two strong leaders, you will need to remove one completely and immediately.
If you do not have room for the average-sized apple tree, consider a dwarf or semi-dwarf, which average 5 to 12 feet in height. Often, dwarf fruit trees are less hardy than trees of average height, can easily break in high winds or heavy snows, and are more susceptible to insect infestation and disease. Dwarfing an apple tree yourself is a better alternative. To do this, you will need to cut a strip of bark about a 3/4 inch wide completely around the tree during the early summer. When you do this, make sure you make the cut close to the bark but not in the wood. Do this carefully because a sharp cut into the tree can kill it. After you remove the bark, turn it upside down, and put it back around the tree so the green side faces inward. Then, cover the repair with grafting wax, tree dressing, or electrical tape to seal out air. Allow the covering to wear away on its own. This surgery slows down the growth of the tree and makes the tree bear fruit at a younger age.
Pear Trees
Pear trees produce their fruit solely on spurs rather than branches. They grow slowly and need less pruning than fruit trees that bear fruit on limbs. According to The History of Pear Trees by Patrick Malcolm, it is believed that prehistoric man ate pears in Europe. Records also show that the pear tree made its way to New England in 1629. Pear trees are medium sized, growing about 15 to 30 feet tall and 10 to 20 feet wide. Like apple trees, they need to cross-pollinate in order to produce fruit. People consider pear trees one of the easiest varieties of fruit trees to grow because they can grow well in a wide range of climates. A pear tree can start producing fruit within two to four years. Pear trees need full sun, especially morning sun, and they do well in well-drained, sandy soil.
If you are planting a young tree, start with a tree about 2 years old. You may need to stake it at first in order for it to withstand windy conditions. Prune the tree to have a central leader — you can switch to a modified central leader after a few years, if you prefer. You will want to thin out any excess branches to encourage your tree to grow in a spreading branch position. Also, pear trees tend to grow upright with several tops you need to cut off, except for the central leader. This will help to avoid the occurrence of narrow crotches that can break easily when loaded with fruit. In addition, remove any cross branches or those growing too close together or rubbing against each other. Do your pruning in late winter or early spring when the tree is still dormant and before new growth begins.
As your pear tree matures, you will find you will wind up pruning for fruit rather than branch positioning. You will want to do this because fruit seeds produce auxins that will affect subsequent growth. The larger the crop, the fewer the flower buds that will produce the next year’s crop. By pruning off developing fruit, you even out fruit production from year to year. Otherwise, you will wind up with a large crop one year and a small crop the next.
Also, thin out any stems growing too densely, and pull off water sprouts immediately. If any limbs appear weak with spindly stems growing on the undersides, remove those limbs also to prevent the growth of poor-quality fruit. Also, remove dead branches that can leave your tree open to disease and insect infiltration.
Once your tree produces fruit, you must thin out the fruit so each pear is about 5 inches apart in order to stimulate and make room for the growth of younger spurs and new fruit. Otherwise, as your tree ages, you will wind up with too many spurs and less production of fruit. Also, if you pick off some of the fruit when the fruit is small and new, you will encourage your tree to produce larger fruit as a result. Remove crowded spurs, as well as older spurs.
One aspect that is nice about pear trees — in addition to being easier to grow — is they are less susceptible to the insects and diseases that often plague other fruit trees. At one time, pear trees were highly susceptible to fire blight, a destructible disease of apple and pear trees caused by a bacterium that turns the leaves black and kills the branches. But today, there are fire-blight-resistant varieties of pear trees, and arborists also have a better understanding of the disease. You should still stay on the lookout if you own a pear or apple tree. It makes the branches and leaves appear as if they have been held over a flame. You need to remove these branches immediately and then dispose of them at a safe distance in order to keep this disease from spreading. Also, make sure you sterilize your tools when you are done pruning in order to keep from spreading this disease to other parts of the tree and to other trees.
Plum Trees
Plum trees, which are native to the United States, Europe, Japan, and China, are considered small trees because they rarely exceed 20 feet tall. This makes them good for a small garden area or yard, especially since they are self-pollinating so you do not need to plant more than one. They do require regular pruning since their brittle wood, if left unattended, can weaken the tree. Plum trees are known as stone fruit trees and grow best in Zones 5 to 7. They require a well-drained soil so use mulch when possible to help the soil retain its moisture.
There are several varieties of plums, which differ in size, flavor, and color, including reds, blues, purples, yellows, and greens. Plums can also range from bushes to trees. People prune plum trees to have an open center or modified central leader form. Once pruned to either form, plum trees require little pruning. Most plum trees produce fruit on spurs, although the Japanese plum tree grows on year-old stems as well. You want to prune so the plant receives light in the center, which is why the open center is often the popular form of choice — plum trees tend to have a scraggly way of growing.
Begin with a 1-year-old whip if you can, which ranges from 4 to 7 feet tall, particularly if you are growing a European or American plum variety. If you are planting a Japanese variety, then plant a 2-year-old, slightly branched tree. Cut the whips back to about a third, to a fat bud, and then cut off a third of the side branches.
When pruning a plum tree, always do it in June. Unlike most other trees pruned in late winter or early spring when the tree is dormant, plum trees are pruned in June because they grow strongly at that time. Plum trees are also susceptible to silver leaf disease in winter, which is a fungus that attacks its leaves.
In the second year after planting, trim the main stem back to about 18 inches, just above a bud. You should have three or four buds below this cut from the previous year. Pinch any side shoots to about six leaves to encourage fruit to grow the following year. When the central stem grows to about 8 feet high, prune it back to old wood above the highest limb.
In the third year, prune the leading shoots back to 12 inches from their main stems, and prune other shoots back to 6 inches from their main stems. By the fourth year and after, prune all leading shoots back by a third, and prune other shoots to 6 inches from their main stems. Cut off all diseased and dead wood, as well as branches that cross or rub against each other. You should leave the center open so it receives plenty of light and air.
Plums are also susceptible to a disease called black knot, where an abnormal, discolored growth forms along the branch twigs. You must remove these twigs immediately to stop the spread of the disease. Also, plum trees tend to have roots that grow close to the surface, which produces many suckers you will need to remove.
Like many fruit trees, plum trees can produce fruit erratically, producing a large crop one year and a small crop the next. To ensure a good crop every year, thin out the fruit when the tree has a large crop so the plums can grow without touching each other, about 5 inches apart. Unlike other fruit trees, you do not have to thin plum tree fruit unless you want a consistent yield each year. If you have a Japanese plum tree, the fruit will be larger and heavier so you may want to thin the fruit to 5 inches apart in order to prevent branches from breaking under the weight. If you want to keep your tree or bush small, you will need to do some heavy pruning, which the plum tree or bush can easily handle.
Nectarine Trees
The nectarine tree is a form of peach tree, but the fruit is smooth and firm, whereas the peach fruit is downy. Some call the nectarine a fuzzless peach. In fact, the nectarine is the same as the peach tree except it is missing the fuzzy gene. It originated in China about 2,000 years ago, where it spread to ancient Persia (Iran), Greece, and Rome. The Spanish introduced it to the New World.
If you plan to grow a nectarine tree, keep in mind that it is a short-lived tree, averaging about a 12-year lifespan. Because it is related to the peach, your nectarine tree could possibly bear peaches and visa versa. The only way to guarantee it will bear nectarines is to grow a tree that has nectarine branches grafted on to a peach tree. Nectarines are self-pollinating so you only need one tree in your garden to reap fruit. As with peach trees, you must pick the fruit of a nectarine tree when ripe because they do not ripen well once harvested. Nectarine trees tend to grow quickly on their own, but pruning makes them grow even faster. The average height of a nectarine tree is 8 to 20 feet tall.
Nectarine trees need more pruning than other fruit trees because they produce fruit on year-old branches. Heavy pruning will encourage the growth of new wood, which in turn will yield more fruit so you must remove the previous year’s growth. But, fruit will grow on the previous year’s wood so leave enough to ensure a good crop. The best time to prune a nectarine tree is in late winter, when the tree is dormant and will not bleed. You can perform light-maintenance pruning to remove diseased or dead wood or manage growth in the summer.
When planting a nectarine tree, prune your whip so it will develop three to five lateral branches. If your tree’s trunk is less than ⅜ of an inch in diameter, cut your tree back to 18 to 24 inches above the ground. If it is larger, leave three to five well-placed lateral branches cut back 2 to 3 inches to stimulate growth, and remove any other remaining branches. Wait until the following winter when the tree is dormant to begin to shape your tree. Nectarine trees do best when they have an open center where air and light can get at the center of the tree and reach the lower branches. Once you have selected the branches you want to keep for your form, cut these branches back 2 to 3 feet from the trunk, and remove any other branches.
In your tree’s second winter, you will want to encourage the development of secondary lateral branches. Pick two or three healthy branches growing outward from your primary limbs, and cut these back 2 to 3 feet, leaving small shoots and twigs along the branch. Remove any other secondary branches. Make sure when choosing your branches, you do not allow your nectarine tree to branch too close to the ground because this tree is prone to trunk borers.
In the following winter, you will work on creating your open center form. Since nectarines grow on the previous year’s wood, remove excessive growth along the branches, but keep enough wood to produce the year’s crop. A good rule of thumb is to prune 60 percent of your tree. This may seem excessive and your tree may look as if it has been scalped, but nectarines can handle hard pruning with ease because it results in a bumper harvest the next year. Also, remove growth at the top of the tree to prevent your tree from getting top heavy with fruit and to encourage your tree to grow taller.
Whenever you are pruning your nectarine tree, look carefully for fruit buds and be careful of cutting off any buds that will produce the following year’s fruit. Prune the branches that are crossing or rubbing and dead or diseased. Also, look for any new growth that looks weak, and cut it off. On the remaining branches, try to stagger them. In other words, cut the limbs back to different lengths. For example, prune some branches back a quarter of the way, some a third of the way, and some half of the way. This encourages new fruitwood to form throughout the crown and not just at the tip of branches.
If space is limited, you can grow a dwarf nectarine tree, which grows 5 to 10 feet high. In addition, nectarines grow easily from pits if you want to start a plant from scratch. A good idea is to grow a nectarine from a fruit you have purchased from a local farmer’s market. This way, you will know exactly what kind of nectarine tree you are growing, and you will ensure it is suitable for your particular climate and soil. If you choose to grow a nectarine from scratch, you will need to remove the seeds from the pit. Then, place the seeds in a plastic bag or sealed container, and put them in your refrigerator for four months to mimic the cold weather they need to germinate. About two months before the last spring frost, take your seeds out, and soak them overnight. Place them in a jar or pot, cover them with moist soil, and put them back in your fridge. Check every week for roots, and once the roots have sprouted, you can plant your seeds in the ground, provided that the frost period is over, or simply plant them in a pot until a whip grows tall enough to plant in the ground. Then, simply follow the pruning rules mentioned earlier in this chapter.
Citrus Trees
Citrus trees are bushy evergreen trees that need little pruning because they grow in the hottest parts of the United States and the world. Trees in northern climates need pruning to let in sunlight, but citrus trees get plenty of light year round. They are popular landscape choices if you live in California, Florida, and along the Gulf because they thrive in warm weather. You perform most of the pruning when a citrus tree is young and needs to be trained for a certain form. If you prune too much, it will take at least two years for your tree to bear fruit again. Also, pruned citrus bark is sensitive to the hot sun so you will need to cover it with white paint to prevent the bark from blistering. The best time to prune citrus trees is in spring because you have passed any chance of an occasional frost. If your tree is an older citrus and is not producing fruit, it can be reborn with extensive pruning. This means removing all wood thicker than 1 to 1 ½ inches in diameter, known as “skeletonizing” the tree.
Grapefruit trees
Grapefruit trees produce an abundance of fruit, which makes them a favorite because like all citrus, they are self-pollinating. Grapefruit trees are one of the newest additions to the citrus fruit family, which, according to James MacFadyen in his 1837 book Flora of Jamaica, is actually a cross between the pummelo and the orange. Grapefruit nurseries did not take hold in the United States until the 1860s.
Grapefruit trees average a height of 15 to 20 feet and have well-rounded tops of spreading branches. The fruit’s pulp can range in color from pale yellow or almost white to pink to deep red. It does best in Zones 9 to 11 with acidic limestone soil, which is why Florida is the largest producer of grapefruit in the United States.
Like most citrus trees, grapefruits need minimal pruning because the more leaves on the grapefruit tree, the more fruit it can produce. But, occasional pruning — about every two years — will help your tree produce the most fruit possible. If your tree is producing too much fruit at one time, then thin out the fruit while they are still small. The best time to prune grapefruit trees is mid-spring to midsummer, from about late March to late July.
If you are planting a grapefruit tree, make sure you plant it in an area of your garden that receives a lot of sun and where the soil drains well. Grapefruit trees do best with open centers so gently remove any branches that do not fit this form. Other than that, a young grapefruit tree needs little pruning. You will need to protect it from possible frosts by draping a blanket or tarp over the young tree.
As your grapefruit tree matures, you will do most of the pruning to maintain its manicured look and to cut off dead or diseased wood. With grapefruit trees, you only need to cut off the dead part of the branch, not the entire branch.
Begin by examining your tree from all sides, and remove any shoots growing off the trunk. Since these shoots can be thorny, wear gloves to protect your hands. Also, remove any dead or insect-infested branches you see.
Next, remove any crisscrossed branches and branches growing too close together. Create an open center to let in air and light and to prevent the fungus that can plague grapefruit trees because of the moist climates they grow in. Also, prune thin branches growing from the sides and top of the tree to keep your plant looking neat and tidy. This will also keep its canopy to a minimum, which can prevent sunlight from reaching its core branches.
If you are removing large branches, make your first cut 15 inches out from the trunk of the tree. Begin the cut on the underside of the branch, sawing halfway through the branch. Then, make the top cut 18 inches out from the trunk, and saw at an angle until your cut meets the first cut on the underside. Your branch should fall off, leaving a nub. Remove this by cutting at an angle from the top of the nub to the trunk of the tree.
If you are trying to rejuvenate an old tree, cut back branches by a third. This will cause the grapefruit tree’s root system to send energy into replacing the tree’s canopy. It is not unusual for an old tree that is pruned to produce an abundance of fruit the following year.
Orange trees
Orange trees, with their white blossoms and bright-colored fruit, are one of the most attractive fruit trees for your garden. In addition, they have a wonderful smell. They grow on average about 20 feet tall with small, rounded heads. They need minimal care, like most citrus trees, but they do require full sun and well-drained soil. They grow best in Zones 9 to 11, and you need to cover them if you experience a cold snap.
You should not pick oranges until you are ready to eat them because they do not continue to ripen once picked and will spoil. The orange tree most likely originated in China, were brought to Europe, and then brought to America. Many varieties of oranges exist, but the two main types include the navel and the Valencia. Navel oranges are best for eating, while Valencia oranges are used for juice. Tangerines are actually mandarin oranges, though not all mandarins are tangerines.
Orange trees are fairly easy to grow if you live in the right climate because they are self-forming and do not need pruning when young in order to shape them. You do need to remove water sprouts, as well as any branches less than 1 foot from the ground. In addition, remove any dead or diseased wood that will attract insect infestations.
You only need to prune orange trees, on average, every other year. The best time to prune is late January to late March. You want to do your pruning before the blossoms appear. As stated, you want to remove any suckers, low-reaching branches, and dead or diseased wood. You also want to cut off any branches that cross each other, grow too close together, or rub against each other. Also, remove any branches from the middle of the tree to create an open center. Like grapefruit, orange trees are prone to fungus so you want plenty of light and air to hit the center of the tree. Keep the wounds from any removed branches shaded from the sunlight in order to prevent sunburn. The best way to do this is to not remove any upper branches unless absolutely necessary.
Lemon trees
The lemon tree is one of the most popular types of citrus trees because of its color, taste, and smell. A lemon tree averages 10 to 20 feet in height and has sharp thorns on its branches. It is the most acidic of citrus fruit trees and can tolerate frost more than other citrus tree.
No evidence of the origin of the lemon tree exists, although people have linked its beginnings to northwestern India. The Spaniards brought it to the New World. Today, in the United States, lemons are mostly grown in Florida, Arizona, and California because these trees need a warm climate, in Zones 9 to 11, to survive.
Lemon trees can tolerate poor, sandy soil, but it requires well-drained soil and full sun. They enjoy a longer life than most citrus trees, averaging about 30 years. Lemon trees are considered low maintenance because they need very little pruning compared to other types of trees, although more pruning than most citrus trees. A lemon tree actually does better when left to shape itself. But like all trees, you must prune your lemon to remove dead or diseased wood and to encourage fruit production. Make sure to wear gloves because the branches have sharp thorns.
If you are planting a young, bare-rooted lemon tree, you will need to severely cut it back at planting time. Although a lemon tree does well when left to shape itself, you want to encourage it to grow with an open center. This guarantees adequate light and air in the center of the tree and prevents an environment where fungus can form. In the long run, it will also allow the tree’s fruit to ripen better.
Although citrus trees are low maintenance and do not need pruning as often as other types of trees, lemon trees require more pruning than other citrus trees, about every two years. Lemon trees, unlike other citrus trees, grow in a long stem pattern that can easily break under the weight of their fruit. You will want to prune these back.
The best time to prune your lemon tree is at the end of winter or the beginning of spring. You want to do it before new buds form. First look for any dead branches — on the lemon tree, these will be dark brown or black. Only remove the part of the branch that has darkened, not the entire branch. Also remove branches from the center of the tree, since the open center form is best for lemon trees. Next, remove any branches crossing or rubbing against each other. Prune back the remaining branches about a third in height.
When pruning, keep in mind that lemons, as all citrus trees, flower and fruit on the current year’s growth. If you feel your tree is bearing too much fruit, growing too closely together, and is straining its branches, thin them out when the fruit is still small. Do not forget to also remove any suckers and water sprouts draining energy from your lemon tree.
This person is pruning their lemon tree in March.
Lime trees
Lime trees are in the citrus family and are like lemons, only smaller, growing only 6 to 13 feet tall. Also, the size of the fruit is smaller, with lemons being around 4 to 5 inches in length and limes being about 3 inches long. Lime trees have a stronger scent than lemon trees and cannot handle the cold as easily as some lemon trees can, which is why lime trees are not native to the United States and instead originated in tropical climates.
Here, you can see the thorns on the branch of the lime tree.
Lime trees have thorny stems so wear gloves when pruning. You need to prune lime trees every two years, but they are quite resilient, being able to withstand too much pruning. If your tree is less than 4 feet tall, you can hold off on pruning. Once it is taller, the best time to prune is early spring and late summer, before the tree blooms or once the fruit is off the tree. As with other citrus plants, remove the suckers and water sprouts that can drain energy from the tree and zap fruit production. Next, remove any weak, damaged, or diseased branches and limbs that rub or cross each other. Also, try to create an open center, since this is the best form for any citrus tree because it allows air and sunlight to reach the center of the tree, increasing fruit production. If your lime tree’s top canopy is top heavy, prune it back to create more balance.
When your tree starts bearing fruit, look for clusters when they are about the size of a grape. Remove all of the limes, except for one in each cluster. This will help your tree to produce fewer, larger limes that have better flavor.
Other Types of Fruit Trees
Many people feel intimidated by fruit trees and shrubs because they are afraid of pruning off the wrong branch, causing irreversible damage. Even if you did prune off a main branch, your tree or bush will probably grow a new one nearby in its place. Just take your time and study your plant, making sure to step back after each cut to view your specimen.
Often, fruit trees start out producing a large harvest when they are young because they have fewer branches so the fruit receives a lot of sunlight. But as the tree matures and grows more limbs, the crop can decrease in size and amount. Pruning fruit trees, therefore, helps to produce a larger yield. It also helps keep the amount of fruit produced consistent from year to year.
Berry-producing shrubs, on the other hand, need little pruning, except to remove dead or diseased branches and to shape your bush or keep it a certain size. Many berry-producing shrubs are unisexual so you will need to plant both males and females if you hope to harvest fruit.
Pawpaw trees
Pawpaw tree bloom
Pawpaw trees are small, tropical fruit trees native to the southern and mid-Atlantic United States that grow to about 15 feet tall. They do best when grown in full sun and have a pyramid shape with branches reaching down to the ground. Because the pawpaw tree is a compact tree in its size and root system, you can plant it near any structure without worry. Should you plant your tree in shade, it will grow wider and will not have lower branches, but if newly planted, you should create some kind of partial shading for your pawpaw during the first two years. After that, your pawpaw will be ready to bear, and then it requires full sun if you want to reap a bounty of fruit.
You will need to plant two pawpaw trees, since they need cross-pollination in order to produce fruit, which look like short, fat bananas. What complicates this process is that pawpaw trees are not pollinated by bees because pawpaw trees have been around longer than bees. Instead, carrion flies and beetles pollinate them. While this is the natural way, if you really want to reap a bumper crop, you will have to pollinate by hand using an artist’s paintbrush. You will have to collect the pollen from a different variety of pawpaw tree, and then brush the pollen on the flowers of the other tree before that tree shows any pollen. Pawpaw trees do well in acidic soil and will bear fruit when they are about 6 feet tall at about 5 to 6 years of age.
Pawpaw trees need little pruning beyond the training stage. But, it is important to remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches on your pawpaw tree. If a branch is thick, place your saw where the branch meets the trunk. Make sure to cut at a 45-degree angle so water does not pool in the cut and cause disease or attract insects. If you are simply removing old growth in order to stimulate fruit production, only prune off the old wood on the branch, and leave any new buds and growth. Other than that, the only pruning you may want to do is on the top canopy in order to keep the fruit within reach. If you choose to prune the top, do it in midsummer. Pawpaw trees are also prone to suckers at the roots that grow some distance from the actual trunk. You will want to remove these immediately because the suckers will grow into a thicket. Your pawpaw tree will produce fruit in clusters on stems that grew during the previous season. Prune when your tree is dormant in order to stimulate growth.
Persimmon trees
Persimmon trees are deciduous fruit trees native to the United States. Their barks resemble an alligator hide, and their fruit resemble under-ripe tomatoes or small, golden plums, which were favorites among Native Americans. The persimmon tree grows an average height of 30 to 70 feet and 25 feet wide with drooping branches and bears fruit for up to 50 years or more. It does best when grown in Zones 5 to 9, although some varieties can grow in Zone 4. It grows well in climates that have moderate winters and mild summers. The fruit is also a favorite among wild birds and animals so make sure to pick the crop once it starts to ripen, and put the fruit in a window to finish ripening. Unripened persimmon fruit can be toxic to some animals.
If you are growing a persimmon tree, plant it when the tree is still a sapling. But, you will need to plant several if you wish to reap fruit because it is difficult to determine a persimmon tree’s sex, and 90 percent of persimmons are female. Your trees will need plenty of sunlight and soil rich in nutrients. Make sure to water it well for the first few years. Persimmon trees are not prone to disease or insect infestation.
Fruit tree enthusiasts love persimmon trees for more than their tasty fruit. A persimmon tree needs minimal maintenance, with pruning once a year suggested in its early years in order to shape your tree. An open center or modified central leader form is best so air and light can reach the fruit hidden in the drooping branches. In addition, during the first year, only prune crossed or damaged branches. During the second year, cut your tree back so it is only 2 to 3 feet tall and forms a vase-like shape.
Do not let your persimmon tree bear fruit until it is at least 4 years old. If it bears fruit too soon, it will weaken the tree, and it will not bear fruit again for many years. During the first few years, pinch off all fruit in the summer. Once your tree bears fruit, do your pruning in late winter or early spring in order to stimulate the buds. Only prune in summer if you are trying to control your tree’s growth. Look for any damaged branches — high winds can damage brittle persimmon branches. Also, cut off any branches that cross or rub and any diseased or dead. You will also need to prune to expose any branches that bear fruit but are shaded from the sun. Prune back problem branches to the third bud inside the tree. Trim back the remaining branches a third to the bud that faces the direction you want your limb to grow. Prune so there is about 1 foot between branches to increase sunlight. Remove any stubs to prevent new growth on them. Do not forget to remove suckers and water sprouts all year as they appear.
Fig trees
Fig plants are ancient plants great for the garden because you can grow them as either a bush or a tree. The average height of a fig tree ranges between 25 to 40 feet. If your garden space is limited, you can still enjoy this fruit tree by pruning it into a small shrub or even keeping it in a pot, since fig tree roots do not mind confined spaces and will still produce a large crop of fruit. Also, if you have cold winters, a severe winter can kill a single trunk so a bush or potted fig is preferred in this type of climate.
If you grow your fig as a tree, train it to have an open center. If you live where the sun is intense, train it to have a modified central leader form so the branches can prevent sunburn. A fig plant bears fruit on both the previous year’s wood and on the current year’s growth. Some varieties of fig trees need pollination from a certain type of wasp, while others do not require pollination to bear fruit.
The best time to prune a fig tree is in late fall or on frost-free days in winter when fig trees are dormant because fig trees tend to bleed. If you are planting a young fig, prune it back by half to allow the plant to focus its energy on developing its roots and to grow side branches that make it fuller.
In the following winter after planting, prune your tree for fruiting wood. Choose four to six branches, and remove the rest. This is also a good time to remove any dead or diseased branches and any suckers growing from the root base. Next, trim off any secondary branches growing off your main branches at less than a 45-degree angle. Finally, cut back the main branches by a third to a fourth. This will allow your tree to direct its energy toward producing fruit in the next year.
For mature fig plants, prune back branches about 1 foot each year to stimulate new growth and to prevent crowding of branches. Also, thin out the crown, but try not to make too many head cuts. If you want your fig tree or shrub to produce a large crop, in the summer, pinch off the tip after 1 foot of growth from the previous season. In addition, prune the roots because this will also promote fruiting.
Blueberry bushes
The blueberry is a flowering plant mainly native to North America, South America, Europe, and Asia. It can vary in size from 3 to 160 inches in height, and it can take years to come into full-fruit production. The smaller plants are wild and are known as lowbush blueberries, whereas those grown commercially or in gardens are known as highbush blueberries. Some varieties are evergreens, while others are deciduous. The fruit is a small berry, and the blueberry bush bears fruit from May to August, depending on the climate and altitude where it grows.
Most fruiting shrubs do not need extensive pruning, and the blueberry bush is no different, although it does need pruning annually to shape it and to remove dead or damaged branches. Blueberry bushes, in fact, are fairly simple to grow and maintain. Pruning helps to stimulate the plant’s fruit production and ensures an annual crop. Blueberry bushes grow from new stems that sprout from the crown of the shrub each year. Its branches do not live long, but with annual pruning, you can ensure that your blueberry bush does.
The best time to prune your blueberry bush is in late winter or early spring, before the shrub has any new growth. During the first year of your blueberry bush’s life, prune all flower buds. This will allow your shrub to expand its roots and establish itself in the ground, and it will ensure the following year’s crop will be large and bountiful.
Blueberry bushes bear fruit in late summer or fall so in winter or late spring, prune back branches so air and light can reach the center of the plant. But do not prune too much or cut back more than one-third of the previous season’s growth. Also, remove any dead, diseased, broken, or weak limbs, as well as any lower branches close to the ground. The idea is to allow as much sunlight as possible to reach the fruit throughout the shrub.
If your bush is more than 4 years old and dense, you will need to thin it out so enough air and light can reach the fruit buried in the bush and to get rid of sterile branches more than 4 years old that no longer bear fruit. Also, trim the branches back to the height you want your shrub. Get rid of any excessively long stems or those that have more than five buds in order to prevent the branches from weakening because of an overload of blueberries. But be careful — do not prune off more than half of the latest growth, and always cut just above an outside bud or branch. Also, only remove the weakest branches, and leave the strongest ones. The amount of pruning you need to do on your blueberry bush will vary from year to year, depending on the amount of growth, fruit production, and which — if any — branches are weak, dead, or diseased. Do not forget to always remove any suckers growing near the base of the bush.
If you have an older and neglected blueberry bush, you can renovate the plant. Simply cut the whole shrub down to the ground during its dormant season. This will cause your bush to put out new sprouts so you will need to thin these out. This drastic measure will cause your shrub to stop producing fruit for at least a year, but the tradeoff is that you will have a viable blueberry shrub once again.
Apricot trees
Apricot trees originated in China and then spread to Asia. The Romans are thought to have brought them to Europe, where they were then brought to North America. In the United States, apricot trees grow best on the Pacific coast, but certain varieties do well in the southern Midwest and in the East. They are easy to grow and do not take up a lot of space, since they only reach heights of 12 to 18 feet and widths of 6 to 10 feet. They are also self-pollinating so you only need one tree to reap its tasty fruit. They are sensitive to heat so they do best in partial shade and well-drained soil.
Apricot trees are susceptible to disease so prune them prior to new growth in the early spring. They also bear fruit earlier than most fruit trees, in early summer on wood that is 1 to 3 years old so you will need to prune enough to stimulate new growth each year. This does not mean you have to prune drastically; light tip pruning should do the trick. Also, cut away old, diseased, or damaged wood. In most cases, fruit thinning is not necessary, but if you do prune your tree severely, your tree will bear less fruit that is larger in size. Keep the spacing between fruit about 2 inches apart.
If you are training a young tree, the best forms are an open center or modified central leader so plenty of light and air reaches all of its branches. Cut your new tree to about 24 to 36 inches tall. If you are pruning for the open center form, remove any central branches, and keep four or five equal branches set wide apart. If you are creating a modified central leader, locate the leader twig. If your tree has two leaders, remove the less dominant one about a ¼ inch from where it joins the other leader. Next, prune off any branches that have a narrow crotch of less than 45 degrees from the main trunk. Then, pick four or five branches you want as the main branches or “ribs” of your tree. Severely cut these back to a ¼ inch above one live but dormant bud. Your tree will look sparse. Do not prune any other branches during the first year.
During the second year, repeat the same pruning as the first; that is, prune off any new twigs and water sprouts, particularly those growing in the center of the tree because you want to have an open center or modified central leader. Also, prune any branches growing downward and any limbs that rub or cross each other. Prune any side branches longer than 30 inches back by 10 inches. Make these cuts a ¼ inch above a lower dormant bud. Also, remove any suckers growing at the base of the trunk.
Once your tree matures, after the second year, continue to prune any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Also, prune any water sprouts and branches growing downward. You want your apricot tree to grow outward and upward. Lightly tip prune your tree every third year. If the bud clusters on a branch die, cut the branch back by 6 to 12 inches to stimulate new growth. Do this every third year.
Most importantly, try not to overly prune your apricot, since apricot trees are susceptible to a number of diseases, and pruning more than every three years opens your tree up to disease. When you do prune, remove 20 percent of the previous years’ growth.
Cherry trees
Cherry trees are not the easiest trees to grow in your garden because they are fussy and sensitive to climate change. A cherry tree is a deciduous tree that does not do well in long periods of hot weather, and they must have a cold winter to bear fruit. Another pro — or con, depending on how you look at it — is that cherry trees attract birds. This means you can enjoy a wide variety of wild birds that will flock to your tree, but the birds may eat up your crop. You can cover your tree with a net to keep out the birds.
Cherry trees grow on average about 6 to 35 feet tall and 8 to 40 feet wide, depending on the variety you grow. Cherry trees are related to plum trees, but the fruit is smaller. They originated in China, but now, North Africa, most of Asia, and Europe, as well as North America, have them. Most varieties do best in Zones 4 through 8 and live an average of 20 years.
Your cherry tree must have well-drained soil because it will not do well if its roots are constantly wet. Your tree will also need full sun. Wild cherries, which taste sour, can self-pollinate, but sweet cherries need another tree in order to bear fruit. Plant your trees 18 feet apart. If your tree is young, it will take two years for it to bear fruit, and you will need to prune carefully in order not to remove the spurs that produce the fruit. Cherry trees do best with a central leader or a modified central leader because they do not do well with the extensive pruning involved in creating an open center form. A central leader is really the best choice because it makes for a stronger tree, but with a cherry tree, you sometimes have to switch to a modified leader as it ages simply because of the cherry tree’s natural growth pattern. In addition, cherry trees tend to grow into a bushy form even with the best of pruning intentions so you will need to train your tree early, or it will grow too wide, and its branches will grow too close to the ground.
Begin to train your tree a year after planting. Choose your main branches, and thin out all the others. Choose your main branches carefully, and do not choose branches growing directly opposite each other because the fruit can be heavy, and the weight can split the trunk.
Your tree will bear fruit on 2- to 10-year-old spurs so once it begins to bear fruit, thin out old spurs from time to time. You can easily identify the old spurs because of their aging appearance. Also, prune off any dead or diseased branches, as well as limbs damaged by weather. This will direct the tree’s energy into the healthy branches and into producing fruit. Remove any suckers at the base of the tree, as well as any water sprouts growing from the trunk or branches. When removing branches, cut them at an angle about an 1/8 inch above a bud.
You must prune a cherry tree once every year, or it will die of starvation because it cannot handle the unfettered growth. You must prune your tree carefully because unlike some trees, a cherry tree is sensitive to drastic pruning. The best time to prune is in summer, after you have picked your fruit because in winter, when most deciduous trees are pruned, cherry trees can contract silver leaf. Always prune to an outward-facing bud so any new growth will not crowd the center of the tree.
If you are trying to restore an older or neglected cherry tree, do your pruning gradually. Begin by cutting back the leader, and then cut the upper branches about 2 feet shorter than the leader. In the spring, choose which branches you want to remain, and thin out the others. Leave any healthy lower limbs, but prune branches too low to the ground. The next year, thin out any new growth at the top of the tree so the lower limbs and fruit can receive adequate light.
The Fruit Tree Espalier
Fruit trees do well when pruned to an espalier form, an artistic form of pruning that creates a two-dimensional plant sometimes used when spacing is minimal. An espalier is a tree or shrub grown flat against a wall, fence, building, or trellis. According to The Pruning Book by Lee Reich, espalier plants originated in Europe in the 16th century as a way to train fruit trees to grow on walls in order to take advantage of the land along the walls and the extra warmth generating from them.
If this is a form you would like to use for your fruit tree, make sure you choose a spot that does not receive direct sunlight all day because walls reflect heat, which can cause your fruit tree’s leaves and fruit to suffer in warm weather. If possible, also choose a white wall because white absorbs little heat, whereas a dark wall will attract it. If you live in cool weather, choose a spot that receives a lot of sunlight and has a dark wall as the backdrop. Also, make sure you plant your tree 6 to 10 inches away from the wall or fence so it receives proper air circulation.
The espalier form is often chosen when a fruit tree may struggle if grown in the open where, for reasons such as spacing or lack of sunlight or too much sunlight, it may make it difficult or impossible for the tree to bear fruit. Fruit trees as espaliers can be both productive and attractive. If your espalier fruit tree is sheltered, its fruit will ripen earlier than fruit trees grown out in the open. Another benefit of the espalier fruit tree is that every stem produces fruit that, thanks to the amount of sunlight and air, is larger, tastier, and attractive.
Espaliers are not really as complicated as they may look. For one thing, their size is contained so you do not even need to drag out the ladder. Also, even though they require constant pruning, the cuts are small. When creating an espalier, keep in mind that your tree will have one or more main stems that are leaders, which will grow out of the trunk. It also has permanent stems, also known as arms or ribs, some of which grow out of the leader or leaders and some that do not. These arms are usually horizontal. If your espalier has ribs, these grow in a herringbone pattern off the leaders when you have a fan-shaped espalier. The goal of growing an espalier is to minimize the branch growth and maximize the fruit growth.
Different forms of espalier patterns exist, all of which can add an artistic flair to your garden. In fact, you can create your own pattern. Typical forms include the U-palmette, candelabra, horizontal palmette, double-U palmette, oblique palmette, wide U with horizontal palmettes, and fan. With an espalier, you want to develop stems having perfect symmetry with buds along the entire length. You will sometimes need to prune a whole branch, and sometimes you will only need to cut off a few inches of a branch or remove just the tip.
The fruit trees that make the best espalier include ones that bear fruit on spurs, such as apple cherry, nectarine, pear, fig, and plum trees. This is because in order to create an espalier, you have to remove many of the step tips and lateral branches, which are areas where many fruit trees that do not have spurs flower and fruit. Trees that bear fruit on spurs grow their spurs along the branches, which espalier training does not cut.
To begin training your espalier, plant your young fruit tree against your wall or fence, stake it, and then wait until the roots have established. You can also use a trellis instead of a stake and wire your trunk to the trellis instead of a stake. Once your roots are established, decide how wide you want your espalier, and insert posts on either end. Then, string galvanized wire between the two posts, crossing the original stake a few inches above the buds of the shoots growing from the sides of your tree.
Next, choose three of your tree’s best shoots, and prune off the other shoots. Tie two of the horizontal shoots to the wire, and tie the vertical shoot or leader to the stake. You may want to use string instead of wire to attach your branches to the main wire because wire may cut into the bark. When the vertical shoot grows to your desired height, string a second wire to the two end posts. Now, you will need to select the three or four best top shoots, and tie them horizontally to the wire, just as you did with the first wire. Continue this process for a third wire — or fourth, depending on the height you have picked — to train new shoots, while pruning off any shoots not needed.
After a few years pass, the central trunk will be large and strong enough to support itself, and its support stake can then be removed. Continue pruning and training as needed each season. Prune the fruiting spurs when the tree is dormant in winter or early spring. Make sure your fruit is spaced well, and cut off any old spurs. If any shoots you have pruned the previous late summer or fall have grown again, prune those back. This is also a good time to cut back your horizontal branches.
It will take about three to four years for your espalier tree to mature. Branches not part of your espalier form will continuously need pruning off, but do this in the spring. Also, shape your espalier every month by removing branches and twigs not growing in the correct places. Espaliers take work, but the reward will be that you will reap larger and sweeter fruit thanks to added exposure to sunlight that your fruit will receive, and you will also garner an interesting focal point in your garden.
Case Study: Advice from a Professional Fruit Tree Grower
LeeAnn Barton is a sales representative for Dave Wilson Nursery’s New Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas, and East Point territories. She also teaches Dave Wilson Nursery’s “Backyard Orchard Culture Techniques” to commercial and home gardening clientele.
Arborist techniques, as well as those taught on the college level, are not necessarily the best techniques for the backyard fruit grower. So, what we teach is what we at Dave Wilson Nursery call the “backyard orchard pruning techniques.” It is a system that goes against what many teach about pruning, but we do it because home gardens are not orchards. The purpose of including fruit trees in the home garden is to grow fruit without hassle. Controlling a tree’s size with summer pruning alleviates many problems. Standard orchard pruning techniques were developed for commercial orchards. When everyone lived in a farm-based society, pruning was delayed because people were too busy with harvest, preservation, and preparing for winter to prune. Even with an understanding of how thinning and pruning increased fruit production, other chores took priority on a homestead.
I tell people to find what works for them. A home gardener needs to ask what he or she wants — possibly a large tree, one to hang a swing from or sit under. Backyard orchard culture techniques bring the size of an average fruit tree down to a size where you can do all your pruning with just a set of loppers and hand shears, and you never need a ladder. This appeals to home gardeners.
These techniques are also geared to prevent injuries — both to the tree and to the gardener. One of the main ways people will injure a tree is they will cut close to the trunk or flush with the trunk, but you should never cut into the bud collar. Another tree injury I have seen has to do with the usually recommended open center method for most fruit trees. People are taught to prune to the outside bud to get the next branch to go in an outward fashion, but what I have seen is that the person will take that to the extreme and prune to a bud almost horizontal to the ground so as the tree grows and the branch matures, all the fruit and weight will cause the branch to break at the trunk union.
A much better approach is to prune branches to create a 45-degree angle between the trunk and scaffold branch. That way, the trunk supports the weight of the fruit and secondary branching. You still get an open center, but the trunk bears the weight of the fruit instead of the branch. You make your first scaffold branches grow at a 45-degree angle and gently grow to an outward spread instead.
As far as injuries to people, here is a good example: I bought a house that had an old apple tree probably 30 feet tall, and even on an 8-foot ladder with an extended pole saw, I could still not reach far enough. It was very frustrating that I could not bring the canopy down to a workable height and had to have an arborist come to handle it. But, I have pruned a lot from the ground, and when you work all day with a pole saw and your neck is leaning back and you are pulling with your arm, it is painful in the shoulders and the arm muscles, plus your neck, and of course, the unpleasantness of twigs and leaves falling in your face because I find it difficult to wear a full face shield.
Ladder injuries are another reason why I discourage letting a fruit tree’s height get out of control, especially as you get older. We believe that not only do you not have to use a ladder, but also it is so much easier to detect disease if your tree is kept small. You can see what is going on before you just start spraying. Plus, if you are spraying, you have mist falling down on you. In orchards where the trees are large, they have a tanker truck to spray but that is not feasible for the home gardener. So, we advise keeping fruit trees small for the home garden.