CHAPTER 4

Gearing Up

In This Chapter

What types of rods, reels, and lines are available

What features the various rods, reels, and lines have

How to put line on a reel

What the different kinds and uses of terminal tackle are

What some common fishing accessories are

In this chapter, you’ll learn about rods, reels, fishing lines, terminal tackle, and accessories. Gaining a familiarity with the available fishing gear is no simple task; in fact, it’s an ongoing process for two reasons. First of all, to appreciate the mega-amount of gear available, all you have to do is walk through the aisles of a major fishing retail store or browse through the hundreds of pages of a major fishing catalog. Secondly, new products arrive on the scene every year, so the available gear is an ever-expanding thing. A person would have to fish 365 days a year to become familiar with all of the fishing gear that is out there. Even though there is a tremendous volume of fishing gear on the market, you can catch plenty of fish with a minimal amount of equipment.

Two Standard Fishing Rods

The fishing rod, sometimes called a pole, is the most basic piece of angling equipment. There are two standard rods: spinning and bait-casting. Although you can find specialty rods and spinoffs of the two standard rod types, probably 90 percent of freshwater anglers use spinning and bait-casting rods. Fishing rods serve a number of purposes, including getting the bait or lure to the fish, working the bait or lure to entice a strike, detecting a bite, setting the hook, fighting the fish, landing the fish, and preventing line breakage.

Spinning Rods

The spinning rod is so named because it works in conjunction with a spinning reel. Spinning rods have the reel mounted on the bottom side, and the line guides face down, too. Spinning rods have larger rings in their guides than other rods in order to facilitate casting of the line while it comes off the reel in loops. Anglers typically hold a spinning rod in their dominant hand and handle the reel with their other hand, so right-handed people hold the rod in their right hand and reel with their left hand. Spinning rods are generally one-piece or two-piece, although multipiece rods are available for travelling anglers.

Bait-Casting Rods

As you would expect, a bait-casting rod is matched with a bait-casting reel. Bait-casting rods have the reel mounted on the top side, and the line guides also face up. Because bait-casting rods don’t have to handle the loops or coils associated with spinning reels, the guides are smaller and closer to the rod blank. Bait-casting rods have a trigger grip on the underside of the rod to facilitate casting. Anglers commonly cast a bait-casting rod with their dominant hand and then switch the rod to their weaker hand to allow for handling the reel with the dominant hand. This means right-handed anglers cast with their right hand, put the rod in their left hand, and turn the reel handle with their right hand. More so than spinning rods, bait-casting rods are designed for fighting and controlling fish, particularly the larger species. Bait-casting rods are generally one-piece, but two-pieces rods are available.

All About Rods

Most modern rods are constructed of graphite or a graphite-fiberglass composite. Graphite is light, strong, sensitive, and affordable, ideal qualities in a fishing rod. Length, action, and weight are the basic characteristics in a fishing rod.

The parts of a rod include:

The butt: The lower or bottom section of a rod

The reel seat: A tightening-down device where reel attaches to rod

The grip: The place where the angler holds the rod; it’s made of cork or synthetic foam

The hook holder: A metal loop above the grip for attaching a hook

The blank: The shaft of the rod

The guides: The metal ring devices along the rod through which the line passes

The ferrule: A male-female connector for joining multi-sectioned rods

The tip: The topmost portion of a rod, which plays a role in rod action and sensitivity

The tip-top guide: The guide at the end of a rod

Rod Length

Although fishing rods may come in lengths from 4 to 14 feet, the most popular lengths range from 5 to 7 feet. Prior to the use of graphite, long rods lacked adequate stiffness so anglers avoided them. Now the trend is toward longer rods since they cast farther, offer better lure control, and provide the desired stiffness. When used for trolling, longer rods allow for a wider spread of lures. Short rods, on the other hand, are easier to handle. A good middle-of-the-road length for most freshwater fishing situations is 6 feet. As a general rule, higher-quality rods have more guides than lower-quality rods. At the very minimum, expect to have one guide per foot of rod length.

Rod Action

The action of a rod refers to where the rod bends along its length. Basic rod actions include fast, medium or moderate, and slow. A fast-action rod bends mainly near the tip. These rods allow for a quicker and stronger hook-set, and they allow for the detection of subtle bites when jig or bait fishing. Fast-action rods are also good for twitching surface lures. The front half of a medium-action rod bends and offers a good compromise between the advantages of fast-action and slow-action rods. The entire length of a slow-action rod bends, and this characteristic provides a shock-absorber effect when fighting a fish. Because the slow-action rods are quite forgiving, they result in fewer line breaks and allow for the use of lighter lines. Such rods also allow for a softer, gentler casting of live bait.

Fishing Vocab

Jigging refers to a fishing action that moves the lure in an up-and-down fashion. Lures commonly used in jig fishing are the lead-head jig, jigging spoon, and blade bait.

Rod Weight

The weight of a rod refers to its strength or power. Lighter-weight rods are designed for smaller fish and lures whereas the heavier ones are intended for larger species and lures. Although manufacturers may use different terminology, seven common ratings for rod weight or power are ultralight, light, medium light, medium, medium heavy, heavy, and extra heavy. If an angler were limited to a single rod, a medium-weight one could handle most freshwater fishing situations.

Purchasing Rods

When purchasing a rod, look for one that will handle the size of the baits and lures you intend to use and the size of the species you intend to pursue. For starters, an angler can’t go wrong with a six-foot, medium-action, medium-weight rod. No matter what, check out how the rod feels in your hand, and go for a quality that fits your budget. Rods need little care except for periodic wiping down and periodic inspection for damage to guides. Damage to rods typically occurs when the rods are laid on the ground instead of leaned against something and when they are being taken in and out of vehicles. Rod cases are good insurance for rods, and rod racks make for safe storage.

Rod Labels

If you look at the shaft just above the reel handle, you will find critical information about the rod. For example, you will see something like this: Model (1221B) MH Rod Medium Action 6.6’ ½-1 oz (Lure Weight) 100% Graphite. This information tells you that the rod is a medium-heavy, medium-action, bait-casting rod. Made of graphite, the rod is 6.5 feet long and designed to fish lures weighing from 0.5 to 1.0 ounce.

Fishing Reels

Modern fishing reels have come a long way from their earlier counterparts. The three basic types of reels are spinning, bait-casting, and spin-casting, although there are a number of variations of the bait-caster. Among the primary functions of any reel are storing line, casting line, working the lure or bait, retrieving line, and providing a drag system to allow for play between the angler and the fish in order to prevent line break.

Bad Cast

When rods are not in use, some anglers place hooks directly in the guides, but this practice can damage the guides so anglers are advised to use the rod’s hook holder for securing hooks.

Spinning Reels

The spinning reel is arguably the most significant development in the modern fishing era, and these reels are by far the most popular among anglers. Spinning reels mount on the underside of the rod so they feel well balanced in the angler’s hand. On most models, the reel handle is interchangeable from side to side so either a right-handed or left-handed person can use the same reel. Many reels also have interchangeable spools so the same reel can be used for fishing with different pound test lines without having to respool.

Fishing Vocab

Drag is an adjustable reel setting that resists the release of line as it is pulled from the reel. Drags can be set at various resistance levels depending on the strength of line being used and the size of the fish being pursued.

Line is released from and returned to a spinning reel by the use of a metal arm called a bail. To release line, the angler flips the bail over. To retrieve line, the angler turns the reel handle to engage the bail that spins and winds line around a fixed spool, thus the name spinning reel. Also called open-face reels, the drag system consists of a screw-down mechanism on the front or rear of the reel. Most anglers prefer a rear drag. Spinning reels also have an anti-reverse lock that prevents line from going freely off the reel.

The advantages of spinning reels are:

They are easy to use and easy to cast.

There are no backlashes.

They cast lighter lures well.

The same hand can be used for casting and retrieving.

Line tangles are easy to deal with because of the open feature.

They hold a lot of line.

The handle is convertible to right-handed or left-handed retrieving.

The disadvantages of spinning reels are:

Line twist occurs if an angler reels while the drag is going out.

Line twist occurs if the angler repeatedly pulls line out without opening the bail.

Loops can form on the spool and if not removed, they will cause line tangles on an ensuing cast.

Spinning rigs are less effective for strong hook-sets and for horsing fish out of heavy cover.

Bait-Casting Reels

The bait-casting reel was the first modern reel, and current advances in its working mechanisms are contributing to the reel’s increasing popularity. The bait-caster, unlike the spinning reel, does have a spool that actually spins to release and retrieve line. Since the weight of the lure pulls on the line to spin the spool, bait-casting reels are better suited for heavier lures than lighter ones.

Bait-casting reels can be used for fishing with bait, but the reels are most often used for casting and trolling artificial lures. Sometimes called level-wind reels, bait-casters have an adjustment that allows for increasing or decreasing tension on the spool to match the weight of the fishing lure. Anglers who utilize this function properly are able to eliminate the bane of bait-casting reels, the dreaded backlash.

Fishing Vocab

A backlash is an overrun of the revolving spool on a bait-casting reel. This overrun causes the line to come off the spool in a rolling surge of tangles. Some backlashes are easily untangled; others call for cutting and replacing the line.

Bait-casting reels have a release button, or thumb bar, that the angler pushes in order to cast, and turning the reel handle engages gears that revolve the spool and wind in line. Most bait-casting reels have an adjustable star-drag mechanism located between the handle and the side plate of the reel. Additional features include a line guide that places line evenly across the spool and an anti-reverse mechanism that prevents line from spinning freely off the spool.

When casting bait-casting reels, right-handed people tend to cast with their right hand, switch the rod to their left hand, and then turn the reel handle with their right hand. Basically, a right-handed reel has the handle on the right side of the reel and vice versa for a left-handed reel. In order to avoid having to switch the rod from hand to hand, right-handed people might consider using a left-handed reel. Although this might feel a bit awkward initially, the angler would soon adjust and thus eliminate the need to switch the rod from hand to hand after each cast.

Some bait-casting reels are specially designed for trolling. Such reels don’t cast well, but they are larger, heavier, have greater line capacity, and have excellent drag systems. Some models even have a line counter so the angler knows how much line he has out.

The advantages of bait-casting reels are:

Properly adjusted, bait-casting reels are accurate casters.

They allow for thumb control when casting and when applying drag tension.

They allow for the use of heavier lines.

They have quality drag systems.

They are more sensitive to what’s happening at line’s end.

They allow for more control and power when fighting fish.

Line twist is not an issue.

The disadvantages of bait-casting reels are:

They are harder to learn to use.

Improperly adjusted, they are prone to backlashes.

They are more expensive than other types of reels.

Depending on retrieval hand, the angler may have to put the rod in a different hand after casting.

Spin-Casting Reels

Spin-casting reels are usually a youngster’s first reel because they are inexpensive, easy to use, and prespooled with line. These reels are sometimes called closed-face reels because they have a cover over the spool, and they are sometimes called push-button reels because a button is pushed to release and cast the line. Like a bait-casting reel, the spin-caster sits on top of the rod and functions much like a bait-caster in casting approach and use of a star-drag mechanism. Even though spin-casting reels are handled similarly to bait-casting reels, spin-casters are generally lower quality reels, although quality ones are available. Some newer spin-casting reels are seated underneath the rod and have the feel of a spinning outfit. These reels have a trigger release rather than a push-button one.

The advantages of spin-casting reels are:

They are easy to learn to use and cast.

They handle easier than spinning rigs.

They are good for light lines and lures.

They are inexpensive.

The disadvantages of spin-casting reels are:

They don’t handle heavy lines.

Drag systems are often of poor quality.

The reel cover has to be removed to deal with line problems.

Line capacity is limited.

Purchasing a Reel

When purchasing a reel, make sure the reel matches the rod. For example, you don’t want to put a spinning reel on a bait-casting rod nor do you want to place a large reel on a lightweight rod. Such mistakes are easily avoidable by purchasing a combination rod and reel set where the manufacturer has properly matched the rod and reel. Such sets are typically less expensive than purchasing the rod and reel separately.

Also, check the labeling on the packaging to see that the reel matches your fishing needs. For example, some reels have spools designed for making longer casts or gear ratios designed for faster lure retrieve. Some packaging or labeling on a reel will list the line capacity for various line strengths. When in doubt about a reel purchase, listen to the advice of the experts at the local bait shop or at a major fishing retailer.

Reels demand a moderate amount of care. The best advice is to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines, which usually involve periodically applying a supplied lubricant to the moving metal parts as shown in an enclosed diagram. By loosening the drag when the reel is not in use, you can lengthen the life span of a reel’s drag system. When reel care or repair is beyond your skill level, take the reel to a local repair shop.

Putting Line on Reels

If line is incorrectly placed on a reel, the line will be full of twists and will perform poorly. When loading line on a spinning reel, place the spool of line on the floor with the label facing up. Thread the line through the guides and make sure the bail is open before attaching the line to the reel spool. For most spinning reels, the spool turns in a clockwise direction. For most spools of line, the line also comes off in a clockwise direction. The proper way to load a spinning reel is to have the line come off the line spool in the same direction the reel spool turns. If twists are forming in the line, you need to turn the reel spool over.

When putting line on any reel, place tension on the line by holding it firmly between the thumb and index finger of your off hand as line is reeled onto the spool. Line loosely placed on a reel will perform poorly. General guidelines call for filling the spool to one-eighth inch of its edge.

The spool on a bait-casting reel revolves so line must come off the line spool in a revolving fashion. This is best done by placing a pencil or similar object through the line spool and having another person hold it. The line should come off the top of the line spool and be applied onto the reel spool over the top. The person holding the line spool can apply tension so the line loads tightly.

For spin-casting reels, follow the principles of placing line on a spinning reel. To verify whether the spool is turning clockwise or counterclockwise, though, you will likely have to remove the reel cover.

Fishing Lines

The good news about modern fishing lines is that anglers have plenty of quality products from which to choose. There is no bad news unless it’s the pricy cost of some lines, but anglers do face the challenge of making an appropriate selection from the available options. To better understand fishing lines, here’s a look at line characteristics and the basic types of lines.

Characteristics of Fishing Lines

Fishing lines are rated by their strength, which is called pound test, and that is the number of pounds a line will hold before breaking. In theory, 10 pound test line should handle a 10-pound fish, but most knots weaken a line’s strength, and proper drag setting and angler skill are factors, too. For example, a skilled angler can easily land a 20-pound striped bass on 10 pound test line, whereas a less adept fisherman might have a 5-pound smallmouth bass break that same line. The general guideline calls for selecting a pound test to match the rod, reel, and targeted species.

Diameter is another key characteristic, and compared to earlier lines, modern lines are excellent in their low diameter. Anglers prefer low-diameter lines because the lines are less visible to fish, and their thinness means less air resistance when casting and less water resistance when working a bait or lure. When fishing largemouth bass or catfish in brush or other heavy cover, an angler would likely opt for a higher diameter line.

Amount of stretch characterizes lines, too. Nylon monofilament lines may have up to 25 percent stretch, whereas braided lines have minimal if any stretch. Low-stretch lines allow for better sensitivity of lure action and strike detection, and the lines are also good for hook-setting and playing fish. Higher-stretch lines are more forgiving, but lower-stretch is generally a preferred characteristic.

Fishing lines have varying degrees of flexibility. Limp, flexible lines handle well and cast well; stiffer lines cast poorly and create twist problems. Stiff lines tend to have a memory, developing coils that interfere with line performance. This coil effect worsens the longer the line is on the reel. Significant use may reduce the coil effect, but it’s best to replace coiling line.

Visibility is another line characteristic, and anglers have an array of choices from low visibility to high visibility. Less visible lines should be the choice in clear waters, and line tints that match water color are always smart choices. I am not one of them, but some anglers like high-visibility lines because the visibility allows for seeing line easily and detecting what’s happening at line’s end.

Bad Cast

Fishing lines become damaged and worn during regular use. As a result, anglers should routinely examine their lines for nicks and frays. Worn lines rank among the most common causes of losing both lure and fish during the fight. As you might expect, it is usually a favorite lure and a big fish that are lost.

All lines experience wear and tear, so lines merit regular inspection. Wear is very common at line’s end because of scraping on rocks or nicks from teeth and hard mouths. Be sure to routinely inspect and retie the last few feet of line. Muskellunge anglers, for example, routinely retie prior to every fishing trip. If line wear shows higher up the line, that wear is likely caused by a faulty guide or worn reel part such as the line guide. In such cases, determine where the problem exists and make the appropriate repair. Sun exposure also weakens lines, so avoid leaving lines so exposed.

Types of Line

Manufacturers are constantly making developments in their fishing lines, and changes occur so frequently the average angler might struggle to make sense of all the available lines. Because of the various hybrid lines out there, categorizing lines by type remains a challenge. Still, here’s a look at three main line types: monofilament, braided, and fluorocarbon.

Nylon monofilament line ranks among the most significant advances in modern angling, and three out of every four anglers use this line. Monofilament lines, often called simply mono, are reasonably priced, and unlimited choices are available with variations in characteristics such as pound test, diameter, stretch, flexibility, and visibility. Mono offers the advantages of suppleness, easy handling, and low visibility. The line holds knots well and can be used on all types of reels. Drawbacks of mono might be its stretch, especially when fishing in deep water, its memory, and its weakening when left in direct sunlight for periods of time.

Fishing Vocab

Backing is any line used to partially fill a reel spool prior to adding the main fishing line. Backing is most commonly used on fly-fishing reels, trolling reels, and spinning or bait-casting reels that have large, deep spools.

Many lines come under the umbrella of braided, and these are lines manufactured by weaving strands of materials together. Dacron was the original braided line, and Dacron is still in use today, but various materials and space-age fibers are used in today’s manufacturing processes. Because of those processes and the materials used, braided lines are more expensive than monofilament. Modern braided lines have earned the description of “super lines” because of their desirable characteristics that include low diameter, low stretch, lack of memory, resistance to sun damage, resistance to abrasion, strength, and excellent sensitivity for feeling lure action and detecting bites. In addition to cost, braided line disadvantages might be visibility, tendency of knot-slippage, and strength. Line strength allows for pulling snags free, but some lines are so strong that improper handling may result in broken guides or rods as well as line cuts on hands. Also, braided lines seem better designed for bait-casting than for spinning reels.

Instead of braiding materials in line construction, some manufactures fuse these same materials into a single-strand line rather than the multiple strands of braided line. Because of the simpler manufacturing process, these fused lines are less expensive than their braided counterparts.

Fluorocarbon, the new kid on the line block, is fast growing in popularity because it is the most invisible on the market. In fact, many anglers use fluorocarbon line for making their leaders especially when using braided lines. Actually made of fluorocarbon, the lines are comparatively expensive, but they are excellent for fishing in clear water. Other praiseworthy traits include abrasion resistance, low stretch, and sensitivity to lure action and fish bites. Fluorocarbon’s single drawback, other than cost, is its relative stiffness compared to monofilament.

When purchasing line, anglers commonly buy a replacement spool. Such spools hold 100–300 yards of line and are meant to refill a single reel spool, although usually all of the line won’t go on the reel. Large spools that hold thousands of yards of line are also available, but megaspools match the needs of professional anglers and guides more so than the needs of weekend anglers. Bait shops and fishing retail stores will install line on a reel, and this service ensures proper installation.

Terminal Tackle

Terminal tackle refers to the items tied on the end of a fishing line, and such basic tackle includes hooks, sinkers, bobbers, snaps, swivels, and leaders. The least expensive of all fishing equipment, terminal tackle is vital to fishing success particularly for anglers using live bait and prepared bait.

Hooks

Hooks come in a wide range of sizes and styles. Hook size is expressed in numbers; a large number represents a small hook and a low number signifies a larger hook. For example, a #16 hook might be used for trout, a #8 for bluegill, and a #2 for smallmouth bass. After size #1, though, the rule changes, and the numbers are followed by a zero, and a larger number indicates a bigger hook so a 4/0 hook is bigger than a 1/0 one. Anglers generally select a hook size to match the size of a fish’s mouth and the size of the bait being used. Hooks may be thin wire or heavy wire. Thin-wire hooks allow live bait to move freely and penetrate a fish’s mouth more easily, whereas heavy-wire hooks don’t bend easily and do a better job of holding large fish once they are hooked.

Hook parts include:

The eye: The loop to which the line is attached. Eyes may be turned up, turned down, or straight; the turned-down eye is the most popular.

The shank: Connects the eye to the bend of the hook. Shanks may be long or short. Long shanks bend more easily, but they hold crawlers better and are easier to remove from a fish’s mouth.

The bend: The curved part of the hook, which determines the gap (width from point to shank) and throat, or bite (depth from bend to point). A deeper throat means deeper hook penetration, whereas a wider gap allows for the use of bigger bait.

The barb: A reverse point to help keep a fish on the hook. Oversized barbs, though, can make for difficult hook penetration.

The point: Where the hook contacts the fish. A cardinal rule of fishing calls for anglers to maintain sharp hook points.

Numerous hook styles or types are available, and most names aptly characterize the hook. For example, the most widely used hook is the single J-hook, which has a J shape with a single point. A double hook consists of two hooks with a single eye and shank; a treble hook consists of three hooks with a single eye and shank. Double and triple hooks are common on artificial lures but rarely used for fishing with live bait. A snelled hook has a monofilament leader attached, and a weedless hook has a wire arm (weed guard) extending from the eye to the point to keep the hook weed free. A salmon-egg hook has a short shaft and is designed to hold a salmon egg; a bait-holder hook has barbs along the shaft to better hold bait. A circle hook has a circular design and when properly used hooks the fish near the front of the mouth.

Real Fishing

Barbless hooks have no barbs so the hooks result in less injury to delicate fish that are to be released and make for easier unhooking of fish, too.

The most common hook styles are sproat, O’Shaughnessy, and Aberdeen. The all-purpose sproat hook has a strong parabolic bend, the O’Shaughnessy hook has a strong round bend and offers good holding power, and the Aberdeen hook is a light-wire, round-bend hook that also offers good penetration. Bronze is the standard hook color, but blue, silver, black, and gold are also popular. A growing number of anglers are now using red hooks because this color seems to entice more strikes.

Conscientious anglers use only sharp hooks. Dull hooks mean poor penetration and lost fish, so dull hooks need to be sharpened or replaced. Anglers can visually check hook sharpness, but a better method is to slide the point of the hook across your fingernail. A sharp hook grabs a bit and leaves a scratch mark, whereas a dull hook just slides across the fingernail. The general guideline calls for anglers to use the smallest hook possible to do the job. Smaller hooks penetrate better, they are less likely than large hooks to alert fish, and they allow live bait to move more freely.

Unfortunately, fish aren’t the only ones to get hooked as anglers sometimes find a hook impaled in themselves or a fishing partner. When this happens, several options exist. If the hook hasn’t penetrated past the barb, the hook can be easily removed from the flesh. If the hook has penetrated a sensitive area such as near the eye or if the hook is deeply imbedded or if it’s a very large hook, cut it free from the line and seek medical attention.

If the hook has penetrated flesh past the barb, one option is to push the hook through the flesh so that the barb emerges and then use wire cutters to cut the hook below the barb. With no barb, the hook will easily pull free. You should note that this method can be painful, and the wound must be cared for to prevent infection.

A second option for hook penetration past the barb involves five steps. This method works best for small-barbed and thin-wire hooks.

1. Get a 2-foot length of heavy fishing line or cord and tie the two ends together.

2. Loop the line over your wrist and at the other end form a small loop between the thumb and forefinger.

3. Place this small loop over the eye of the hook and bring the loop to the middle of the hook’s bend.

4. Press down on the eye of the hook with your other thumb. This step creates an opening and an angle to get the barb clear of the flesh.

5. Give the small loop on the hook’s bend a sharp pull directly in line with the hook’s shank. The hook should come free with a minimal amount of pain. Again, the wound should be treated to prevent infection.

Weights

Weights, commonly called sinkers, come in a variety of sizes and shapes. Their purpose is to get a bait or lure to a desired depth. Light sinkers may weigh only fractions of an ounce while the heaviest ones used for freshwater fishing may weigh up to half a pound or more. Most weights are made of lead, but environmental concerns have given birth to sinkers made of brass, cadmium, steel, tin, and tungsten. These newer sinkers are generally more costly and less effective than ones made of lead.

Weights may be fixed or free-sliding. Fixed sinkers remain in their attached position; free-sliding, or slip, sinkers ride up and down the line.

The most common fixed sinkers are:

Split shot sinkers: Generally lightweight, split shot sinkers are round with a gap in them that allows for the sinker to be pinched on the line. Split shot are placed on the line ahead of the bait or lure.

Bell sinkers: These bell-shaped sinkers are attached to the end of the line via a metal loop and are generally used for fishing with live bait near the bottom. They hold bottom well and cast well.

Bank sinkers: Although similar in function to bell sinkers, bank sinkers have a molded loop rather than a wire one for line attachment.

Rubbercore sinkers: These sinkers are attached to the line by twisting the ends of the core in opposite directions. These weights are placed ahead of the bait or lure and are easily attached and removed.

In-line trolling sinkers: As their name suggests, these sinkers are attached in the line ahead of the lure and are used for trolling. They come in a variety of styles with wire loops at each end that require a connection to the main line and a connection to the length of line that attaches to the lure.

The most common slip sinkers are:

Egg, or barrel, sinkers: These weights have a hole through the center and are placed in the line ahead of a swivel or small split shot to keep the weight from sliding down to the hook. They allow a fish to take the bait without feeling the resistance of the sinker.

Bullet, or cone, sinkers: These weights also have a hole through the center and are primarily used when fishing with plastic worms for largemouth bass. They are placed directly ahead of the worm; their cone shape helps the rig work in weeds.

Walking sinkers: These sinkers function the same way as egg, or barrel, sinkers, but they have a stand-up feature and are designed to move or walk the bait or lure along the bottom.

As with hooks, the best guideline for sinkers is to use the smallest weight that will do the job; excessive weight may result in a fish rejecting the bait or lure.

Floats

Floats, more commonly called bobbers, serve the purpose of suspending a bait or small artificial lure at a desired depth. Floats also allow for drifting bait along the current flow of a stream or across the water with the aid of the wind. In addition to getting an offering where the angler wants it, the movement of a float gives a visual indication of a bite.

Most bobbers are constructed of hallow plastic, balsa wood, Styrofoam, or cork. These light materials are effective for indicating bites but not for casting. For casting efficiency, anglers use light lines, rely on the weight of the bait or lure, add split shot, or use a self-weighted bobber. The basic concept of bobber fishing is quite simple, but the variables of fishing with floats are illustrated in the larger retail stores that will have an entire aisle of float options. Floats are great for kids, and although they are primarily a panfish option, floats are also used for species such as northern pike, walleyes, steelhead, and catfish.

A variety of float styles exist, but the two basic ones are the ball with a round shape and the pencil with a shaftlike shape. Like weights, floats may be attached in a fixed position or allowed to slide up and down the line. Fixed floats work well in shallow water, but slip bobbers must be used for deep-water fishing. Slip bobbers have a bobber stop pinched on the line above the bobber to set the bait at the desired depth. The float slips down the line as the angler winds line onto the reel.

Like selecting hook size and weight size, anglers should opt for the lightest bobber to perform the job. The resistance caused by an oversized bobber commonly results in fish rejecting the bait or artificial lure.

Snaps, Swivels, and Leaders

Snaps, swivels, snap swivels, and leaders have a place in every angler’s tackle box. Regarding size, go with the smallest one that will do the job. Common color choices for this terminal tackle include black, silver, and gold. I prefer black.

The most common snap has a loop at one end that attaches to the main line and a safety pin design at the other for attaching to lures. Cross-lock snaps, however, have better holding power than their safety pin cousins. Snaps allow for the easy attachment and change of lures.

A swivel has loops at each end for attaching to the main line and for attaching to a shorter length of line that goes to the lure. Swivels can be used to stop sliding sinkers and to prevent line twist. Barrel swivels work well for sliding sinker rigs, but ball bearing swivels are the way to go to prevent line twist when using spinners and spoons, lures that spin. Three-way swivels have three loops instead of two so they allow for attaching two leaders, one for a weight on the bottom and the other for a lure at a 90-degree angle. Snap swivels, as their name suggests, are a combination of a snap and a swivel. While a snap does not prevent line twist when using spoons and spinners, a quality snap swivel performs that job admirably.

Real Fishing

The plastic boxes with adjustable compartments, sometimes called utility boxes, are ideal for storing and transporting terminal tackle. The compartments allow for easy access, and they allow you to neatly arrange all of your terminal tackle by item, size, etc. Some floats, particularly the larger ones, don’t fit well in the compartments, though.

Commercial leaders are generally made of wire, rated by pound test, and come in lengths varying from 6 inches to 3 feet. Common colors are black and silver, and I prefer black. Wire leaders are a mainstay when pursuing toothy fish such as the northern pike, but many anglers make their own leaders using monofilament or fluorocarbon lines. When attached to more visible main lines, these leaders offer low visibility and work well in clear water conditions or for line-shy fish. When using spinners or spoons, a ball bearing leader is the best for prevention of line twist.

Common Fishing Accessories

The number of available fishing accessories seems to grow every year, but I especially recommend nine.

1. Fishing license

2. Personal flotation device

3. Lake chart to aid in selecting places to fish

4. Clippers for all line cutting, including the trimming of tag ends

5. Set of needle-nose pliers for removing hooks, straightening hooks, pinching down barbs, scrimping shot, tightening loose reel parts, and more

6. Landing net or cradle sized to match the fish you expect to catch

7. Measuring device to verify that a fish meets the minimum legal length if you are keeping your catch for the dinner table

8. Sharp fillet knife for cleaning fish, and for other uses such as cutting a hook free from your clothing

9. Tackle box

The ninth accessory, a tackle box, is used for storing your various fishing items. Tackle boxes come in various sizes, styles, and available storage compartments. The traditional tackle box was metal and then plastic, and consisted of a series of trays where anglers stored all their items. The current trend, though, is toward a soft tackle box or nylon-padded case that holds a number of utility boxes. An angler heading to the water packs the utility boxes suited for the outing. For example, an angler heading out for largemouth bass might take along five separate utility boxes of terminal tackle, plastic worms, jigs and trailers, plugs, and surface lures.

Fishing Vocab

A plug is a hard plastic or wooden fishing lure that typically has a minnow shape.