CHAPTER 5

Handling the Rod and Reel

In This Chapter

How to set the drag

How to make basic casts

In this chapter you will learn about the importance of the drag on a reel and how to properly set the drag. You will also learn how to make the overhead, sidearm, cross-body, and underhand casts.

Setting the Drag

The drag is an adjustable mechanism that allows line to come off the spool; a drag can be set at any resistance level to allow the release of line as it is pulled from the reel. Essentially, the drag allows a hooked fish to take line out without the line breaking and without getting any slack in the line. An improperly set drag probably results in more lost fish than any other factor, so checking the drag should be routine on all fishing trips. Properly setting the drag is a fishing fundamental.

Drag Location

A spinning reel may have a front or rear drag. The front drag is a cap, and the rear drag is a knob, and in both cases turning the drag clockwise tightens it or increases the tension, and turning the drag counterclockwise loosens it or decreases the tension. Some anglers prefer the rear drag because it is easier to adjust while fighting a fish; the angler’s hand doesn’t come in contact with the line as might happen when adjusting a front drag.

Bad Cast

When fighting a fish, some anglers tend to overadjust the drag. If a drag is properly set, it likely needs minimal, if any, adjustment during the fight. By constantly lowering and increasing drag tension during the fight, an angler creates a greater risk of losing the fish.

Bait-casting and spin-casting reels have a star drag situated where the reel handle attaches to the body of the reel. Turning the star drag forward, or clockwise, increases tension while turning the star drag rearward, or counterclockwise, reduces the tension. Bait-casting reels commonly have the smoothest drag systems, so these reels are popular among anglers targeting larger fish such as muskellunge and chinook salmon. Because many spin-casting reels are inexpensive and designed for youths and fishing for panfish, the drag systems are inferior for handling larger fish such as northern pike and striped bass.

Drag Tension

No set rule exists for correct drag tension, but anglers generally like to set the drag somewhere between 50 percent and 75 percent of line strength. If an angler were using 10 pound test line, the drag would be set somewhere in the 5- to 8-pound range. The key is to have the drag set below the breaking point of the line, taking into consideration that your knot has likely lessened that breaking point.

Meticulous individuals might want to attach a scale to line’s end to verify the breaking point of the line or to set the drag at a precise poundage, but more realistically anglers put a nonhook item at line’s end, step on the item, and then lift the rod to check for a desired drag setting. Most anglers check drag tension by pulling line directly off the reel by hand, but a better method is to pull line with a bend in the rod as that better simulates a fish at line’s end.

By letting line slip from the reel when pressure is applied, the drag in conjunction with the rod acts like a shock absorber, so a properly set drag allows an angler to fight and land a fish that exceeds the breaking strength of the line. A drag that is too tight may result in the hook pulling out of a fish’s mouth or the line breaking, with the resultant loss of both fish and rigging. If the drag is too loose, poor hook-setting occurs. Some anglers like loose drags because such settings prolong the fight and make the catch seem bigger. A loose drag, however, can result in overplaying the fish, causing it to become too stressed for successful release. Also, when using spinning reels, line twist occurs as line is pulled out during fish runs.

Before storing outfits, it’s a good idea to loosen the drag. When not in use over a period of time drags can set up, so they need to be checked and set prior to each outing. Drag systems vary in quality, and generally you get what you pay for. In essence, a good drag allows line to come off the reel smoothly while a poor drag causes line to come off the spool in jerks.

Casting

Casting is the method of throwing a bait or lure where the angler wants it to go. Accuracy and distance are the keys to good casting. Novice anglers tend to put distance ahead of accuracy when casting, but accuracy should be the primary objective. Casting is a skill, and anyone can become a skilled caster. Casting doesn’t require great strength, but timing and letting the rod do the work are critical.

There is no right or wrong way to cast. Like the various styles used by a baseball pitcher, casting styles can vary from angler to angler. Also, like a baseball pitcher, it’s critical to visualize hitting the target. Here’s a look, though, at the general maneuvers employed when casting, and then we’ll look at making specific casts including the overhand, sidearm, cross-body, and underhand.

Casting Basics

General casting maneuvers begin with letting the lure extend 6 inches or so from the rod tip and the angler holding the line at the reel. When using a spinning reel, the angler holds the line against the rod with his forefinger. For bait-casting reels, the angler pushes the release button and places his thumb on the spool. For spin-casting reels, the angler controls the line by holding his thumb on the release button.

Bad Cast

Avoid the mistake of focusing on distance rather than accuracy when casting. In nine out of ten fishing situations, accuracy is more important than distance. As a fishing guide, I see too many anglers casting for distance, an occurrence that usually results in poor bait or lure placement as well as a poor feel for what is happening at line’s end.

The next steps involve picking out a target and swinging the rod away from the target to let the weight of the lure bend the rod. This bending is called flexing or loading. Then the angler swings the rod in the direction of the target making sure to release the line at the correct point to hit the target. As the lure approaches the target, the angler can control distance by feathering the line and pinching it against the rod for spinning reels or by putting thumb pressure on the spool for bait-casting reels. A spin-caster has to use his or her off hand to feather the line or pinch it against the rod. Once the lure hits the water or sinks to the desired depth, the angler engages the reel by turning the reel handle.

Fishing Vocab

In casting, the rod is pictured as the dial of a clock, and twelve o’clock refers to the point directly overhead of the angler. From there, one o’clock, two o’clock, etc. refer to points in a clockwise direction while eleven o’clock, ten o’clock, etc., refer to points in a counterclockwise direction.

Overhand Cast

The most basic cast is the overhand, which begins with extending the lure 6 inches or so from the rod tip and facing the target. After pointing the rod tip at the target, the angler bends his elbow to raise the rod tip to a position near ten or eleven o’clock at which point the rod tip flexes a bit. Then the angler sharply brings the rod back to the one o’clock or so position. At the end of this backstroke, the rod loads and the angler begins the forward stroke propelling the rod tip toward the target. About midway through the forward stroke, just before the two o’clock position, the angler releases the line and follows through so the rod tip points at the target. If the line is released too soon, the lure will fly high in the air, and if the line is released too late, the lure will slap the water and fall short of the target.

Fishing Vocab

The back cast is that part of the cast when the fishing rod is moved from a position in front of the angler to a position behind the angler. When casting, fishermen must always be aware of their back cast because the back cast results in more partners getting hooks imbedded in their bodies than does any other fishing action.

Sidearm Cast

The sidearm cast is similar to the overhand cast except that the sidearm cast is performed in motions parallel to the water rather than perpendicular to it; it’s horizontal in motion rather than vertical. Again let out 6 inches or so of line. If you are right-handed, put your left foot slightly ahead of the right and face the target. Point the rod tip at the target, swing the rod parallel to the water and away from the target to just beyond 90 degrees, feel the rod tip load, and begin the forward stroke. Prior to the rod tip pointing at the target again, at around 45 degrees, release the line. Again, follow through and stop the rod when the tip points at the target.

Cross-Body Cast

The cross-body cast is a mirror image of the sidearm cast. Visualize someone throwing a Frisbee, and you have the basic motions of the cross-body cast. This cast may lack the power of its twin, but when other anglers or objects prevent use of the sidearm cast, the cross-body cast is the way to go.

Fishing Vocab

Loading occurs when a rod takes on the weight of the bait or lure during the back cast. This loading or flexing of the rod gives the rod the potential energy to propel the bait or lure forward.

Underhand Cast

Like the cross-body cast, the underhand cast may lack power, but it’s an effective technique when other anglers or overhanging trees prevent use of other casts. Begin by pointing the rod tip at the target and then lift the rod to shoulder height or so to allow the rod tip to slightly load. Perform a downward stroke to a position slightly below the waist so the rod tips loads a bit. Then begin a second upward flex releasing the line as rod tip nears the starting point, at about a 90-degree angle to the water. The underhand cast utilizes a lot of wrist action and minimal arm movement.

Accuracy and Distance

A number of factors affect casting accuracy and distance. Even though these variables are common sense, they merit mentioning anyway. One factor is the wind, and anglers can combat strong winds by using heavier lures or by casting crosswind or downwind rather than directly into the wind, an act that almost guarantees backlashes when using a bait-casting reel. Longer rods cast farther than shorter ones, and lighter lines cast more efficiently than heavier, stiffer ones. Also, a reel spool filled to near capacity will outperform a partially filled spool. Slow-action rods handle light lures better than fast-action rods, lightweight rods are effective for casting lighter lures, and heavy rods are good casters of heavier lures. A rod with quality and properly spaced line guides enhances both distance and accuracy.

Casting Practice

Since casting is a skill rather than an inherited trait, backyard practice sessions serve to make anglers better casters. Always practice in an open area and avoid hard surfaces, which can cause line damage. In addition, use a hookless object such as a rubber casting plug at line’s end. Focus more on accuracy than distance, and try mastering a variety of casts. Also, work at making soft casts as they are easier on live bait and less likely to alarm fish. Don’t expect perfection in casting because even professional anglers slip up occasionally due to equipment malfunction or angler inattention.

Finally, think safety first when casting. Hooks and lead weights can cause bodily harm, so always be aware of your back cast and use a technique where the forward and backward strokes are at an angle away from other people. Also, pay attention to the casting practices of fellow anglers, and don’t hesitate to remind them to watch their back casts.