The third spice

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This spice has a long history, and was used by the early Egyptians and later by the Greeks and Romans. It was carried to Europe along the ancient caravan routes and is the third most expensive spice, after saffron and vanilla, although it is used in such small amounts that we should not fear buying it unless we want to appear like the miser in the joke about the ‘parrot’s chocolate’.

Cardamom is widely used in India and the Middle East, but it is also an ingredient in cakes and pastries in Germany, Russia and Scandinavia. In France and the United States the essential oil is used in perfumes.

The plant grows profusely on the coast of Malabar in India, and other varieties are grown in Sri Lanka, Mexico and Guatemala. It is a member of the pervasive ginger family, and is a perennial shrub of a certain height, with lanceolate leaves and short flower stems. After flowering, the stems form small green capsules that are harvested by hand; these capsules can contain up to 20 aromatic seeds.

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Green cardamom pods are the most common, and the white ones are simply green pods that have been bleached. Avoid brown cardamom, as their taste is very unpleasant and reminiscent of the camphor placed in cabinets to protect clothes from moths.

For best results, the aromatic seeds should be removed from the green or white pods immediately before use.

Cardamom works well in pies, cakes, liquors, coffee, pickles, pickled herring, meat dishes, punches, spiced wine, custard and fruit dishes. And it is one of the components of a curry.

The seeds, whole or ground, lose their flavour quickly, so it is best to buy whole pods. You must remove the seeds from the pods before grinding them. For savoury dishes, dry toast the seeds to extract the best flavour. Open the pod and remove the sticky blackish brown seeds, heat up a frying pan, add the seeds and roast them.

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An infusion of cardamom pods after dinner is not only refreshing and delicious, but also a good digestive. In the Middle East, strong black coffee is often flavoured with a pinch of cardamom powder. To prepare an infusion, place 12 crushed pods in 1.5 litres of boiling water, add a piece of orange peel and leave to rest for 10 minutes. Then add 2-3 tablespoons of tea, leave to gain the desired strength, strain and serve with hot milk and sugar, if you wish.