Tartar Sauce

Smoked mullet and grilled fish are the classic barbecue dishes of Florida, and that is probably where Native Americans gave birth to barbecue in what is now the United States.

Sauce tartare, as it was originally called in France, has been around a long time. It is in the same family as aioli (garlicky mayo), or remoulade (mayo, herbs, capers, cornichons, and anchovies), and all oil-and-egg-based sauces. Tartar sauce is classic as a finishing sauce, but you can also slather it on the fish before you grill.

Makes about ½ cup

Takes about 15 minutes

• ½ cup mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon chopped green onions, white parts only
• 1 tablespoon chopped green onions, green parts only
• 1 tablespoon chopped sweet pickles
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 2 teaspoons finely chopped drained capers
• 1 teaspoon dried tarragon or 1½ teaspoons fresh, chopped
• ½ teaspoon whole-grain or coarse-ground mustard
• A few drops of hot sauce, optional
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mix everything but the salt and pepper in a bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let it sit in the fridge for a couple of hours. It will keep for at least a week.

Notes: There is plenty of room to play with this recipe, but I think tarragon is essential because it really complements fish. If you wish, use lime juice, vinegar, or pickle juice instead of lemon juice. If you don’t like capers, you can substitute cornichons, or just forget about either one. Finely minced celery is a nice addition. You can use sweet pickle relish in place of the sweet pickles. Dijon-style mustard can be swapped in for the whole-grain mustard. Skip the hot sauce if you like, or add more, or use red pepper flakes or chipotle powder to contribute the heat.