D.C. Mumbo Sauce

Washington, D.C., is the nation’s most international city. Much of the population comes and goes with the political tides. As a result, there aren’t many indigenous dishes, but there is one concoction the locals proudly claim as their own: mumbo sauce.

Theresa Vargas, in a July 2011 article in the Washington Post, wrote, “For many D.C. natives, the sauce that captures the flavor of home is called mumbo. Few can tell you how it’s made or where it originated, but they know this: If you grew up in one of the mostly African-American areas of the city, you’ve likely known the taste your entire life. If you didn’t, you probably have no idea what it is.”

Mumbo sauce, which is also called mambo sauce, mombo sauce, mumba sauce, mumble sauce, and even mummbah sauce, is different from joint to joint. It ranges in color from orange to red, is thinner than the typical red barbecue sauce, and tastes more like Chinese sweet-and-sour sauce. In fact, it can be used for just this purpose. Mumbo sauce is most popular on chicken wings, but it works on just about anything deep-fried. That may sound odd, but remember, in the Deep South, fried chicken and fish are often served with honey.

Since there is no official recipe, I’ve created one inspired by the best examples I’ve tasted in the D.C. area. Try it on fried chicken, fish, shrimp, or egg rolls. I use it on Sweet and Sour Pork Tenderloin (page 212). As unorthodox as it may sound, it’s pretty good on barbecued ribs and pulled pork, too.

Makes 2⅔ cups

Takes less than an hour, even if the kids are in your hair

• 1 cup sugar
• 1 cup distilled white vinegar
• 1 cup pineapple juice
• ½ cup (4 ounces) tomato paste
• 4 teaspoons soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• ¼ teaspoon hot sauce, or more if you wish

Mix all the ingredients together in a saucepan and whisk to break up the clumps of tomato paste and ginger. Simmer over low heat for about 20 minutes to marry the flavors and thicken it a bit. Do not let the sauce boil. Taste and adjust the seasonings to your preferences. When it is time to serve, you can drizzle it on the food, serve it in a bowl for dipping, or both. Mumbo sauce can be refrigerated for months.

Note: You may be tempted to use apple cider vinegar or something with more flavor, but resist. Plain old distilled vinegar is the right call.