Short Ribs, Brazilian Steakhouse Style

Brazilian steakhouses serve beef ribs churrasco style, as a whole short plate of 4 bones, about 8 inches long and 8 inches wide, with a thick layer of meat on top. They trim it, salt it, run a sword through it, and rotisserie it over charcoal at about 400°F until the surface is dark brown. Gauchos bring it to the table and slice a thin layer of brown off it across the grain so it will be easier to chew. Beneath the surface the meat is medium-rare, and below that it is very rare, so it goes back on the rotisserie to build a new flavorful crust. It is a showy presentation, and you can do it at home. The process ensures that your guests have tender, juicy, medium-rare meat, and because it is sliced thinly, this tough cut is easy to chew. When you are done, you have some great bones to gnaw on or make into a stock.

You don’t need a rotisserie—in fact, cooking is easier and faster with just a screaming-hot grill. After you take the first slices off the surface, enough to get three or four diners started, you have to go back to the grill and cook the meat until the surface browns, another 4 minutes or so, depending on how hot the grill is, and then bring it back to the table. But if you do it this way, I doubt your guests will complain when you finally sit down with the stubble left on the bones and hoard it for yourself. The best way to pull this off is to have the grill right by the side of the table.

You need a really sharp, thin blade to cut off the slices, and a way to hold the meat to keep it from slipping. A big carving fork will do the job.

Makes 6 servings

Takes 1 hour

• 1 beef short plate (about 8 pounds)
• Large-grain Maldon-style salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

1. Prep. Remove the fat cap from the beef, but leave the membrane on the underside of the plate or the meat will fall off the bones.

2. Fire up. Preheat the grill to warp 10 (as hot as she’ll go, Scotty).

3. Cook. Grill with the meaty side down over direct heat until the exterior is dark.

4. Serve. Remove the meat from the grill, sprinkle it with Maldon-style salt and black pepper, and slice it across the grain, parallel to the surface and only about ⅛ inch deep so you get the dark surface and a thin layer of medium-rare red meat. Below this will be bright red rare meat. Put it back on the grill, meat side down, and repeat. Serve the thin slices to the guests right off the slab.