The Ultimate Grilled Corn on the Cob

The great bard Garrison Keillor said, “Sex is good, but not as good as fresh sweet corn,” and in August, it is hard to disagree.

The best way to cook corn is on the grill. I’m not talking about the popular method of soaking the corn, husk and all, in water and then grilling it in the husk. Or wrapping it in foil. That is steamed corn, not grilled. Grilling corn does leave it a bit chewier than steaming, microwaving, or boiling it, but if you remove the husks, the sugars can caramelize, adding a depth of flavor no other method can produce.

While the corn is grilling, I paint it with tarragon butter for a hint of an exotic sweetness. Some of it gets between the kernels, but most of the butter drips off so the corn isn’t the least bit greasy; it is buttery and so flavorful you won’t want to put anything on it at tableside. This technique is really best on a gas grill, but you can use a charcoal grill if you control the heat.

I usually grill more corn than I can eat. I cool the leftover corn, cut the kernels off the cob with a sharp knife, and put it in the freezer. Grilled corn livens up a tomato salsa or cornbread, and it makes restaurant-grade corn soup. I like to mix grilled corn with chopped tomatoes, minced jalapeño, fresh tarragon, and thinly sliced red onion, then drizzle it with my best olive oil. It’s a perfect August lunch.

Makes 4 ears

Takes 25 minutes to prepare and 20 minutes to cook

1. Prep. Remove the husks from the corn and pull off all the silky threads. Wash the ears in cold water.

2. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the tarragon to the butter. Reduce the heat to very low and let the tarragon infuse the butter for at least 15 minutes.

3. Fire up. Set up your grill for two-zone cooking and get the direct-heat side to medium-hot.

4. Cook. Put the corn on the direct-heat side of the grill. Rest the ears between the bars of the grates so you can roll them from groove to groove. Paint them lightly on the top with the tarragon butter, making sure to get some bits of tarragon on the corn. Try not to let too much butter drip onto the fire or it will cause flare-ups, which will coat the corn in soot. If there is a flare-up, move the corn away. Close the lid and grill until some of the kernels get toasty golden to brown, about 5 minutes per side. Roll the ears a couple of grooves, about a quarter turn, and paint them again. Keep browning, turning, and painting until you have done all four quarters.

5. Serve. You can put butter and salt on the table, but urge your guests to taste their corn unadulterated first. Chances are, they won’t use any more butter or salt.

Note: You can use other herbs such as thyme, oregano, rosemary, or basil, but tarragon is by far my favorite. And yes, you can use dried herbs. Remember, they are more concentrated, so use about half the amount of fresh.